Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Bunmi Koko


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Vauxhall Fashion Scout plays a huge part in showcasing fresh London talent; the first show this week was that of Nigerian luxury label Bunmi Koko. Promising to present clothes ‘celebrating female empowerment and domination’, buy information pills I was told that the ‘Matriarchy’ S/S collection was heavily inspired by all-male leopard masquerade (Ekpe) from the secret Efik tribe in Nigeria.

The tribal influence was immediate as the show opened with a terrific giant colourful pompom man who came shuffling on with an excellent shaky shaky dance to Kanye West’s Love Lockdown.

The show, information pills although slightly chaotic at the beginning and very embarrassing for one girl who had to be ushered out of her front row seat to make way for a short bearded man, was a visual treat. As we all sat and waited for it to begin, I counted a surprising number of ‘slebs’ in the front row – Calum Best, Mutya Buena who used to be in the Sugababes (didn’t everyone?) and Becca from Hollyoaks all cast their critical eyes over the collection.

Still dazed by the wonders of a bright dancing furby-esque creature, the rest of the show began with four monochrome outfits complete with feather masks and the occasional pineapple looking cane. The oversized pom poms were back, but this time used with (a little bit) more restraint and made from rayon raffia.


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Compared to other shows I attended yesterday, Koko’s was not as obviously ‘spring/summer’ and featured much stronger colours (deep reds, mustard yellows and two tone prints), with heavy black accents defining each model’s outfit. Most of the looks mixed different textures of feathers, wool, small embellishments and tiered rows of layering on the skirts. For S/S 2011 Bunmi Koko offers a very tailored, and sharply silhouetted collection, with nipped in structured jackets, above the knee dresses and tapered trousers.


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Categories ,Bunmi Koko, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,lfw, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Luxury, ,New Talent, ,pom-poms, ,S/S 2011, ,University of East London, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Bunmi Koko


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Vauxhall Fashion Scout plays a huge part in showcasing fresh London talent; the first show this week was that of Nigerian luxury label Bunmi Koko. Promising to present clothes ‘celebrating female empowerment and domination’, I was told that the ‘Matriarchy’ S/S collection was heavily inspired by all-male leopard masquerade (Ekpe) from the secret Efik tribe in Nigeria.

The tribal influence was immediate as the show opened with a terrific giant colourful pompom man who came shuffling on with an excellent shaky shaky dance to Kanye West’s Love Lockdown.

The show, although slightly chaotic at the beginning and very embarrassing for one girl who had to be ushered out of her front row seat to make way for a short bearded man, was a visual treat. As we all sat and waited for it to begin, I counted a surprising number of ‘slebs’ in the front row – Calum Best, Mutya Buena who used to be in the Sugababes (didn’t everyone?) and Becca from Hollyoaks all cast their critical eyes over the collection.

Still dazed by the wonders of a bright dancing furby-esque creature, the rest of the show began with four monochrome outfits complete with feather masks and the occasional pineapple looking cane. The oversized pom poms were back, but this time used with (a little bit) more restraint and made from rayon raffia.


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Compared to other shows I attended yesterday, Koko’s was not as obviously ‘spring/summer’ and featured much stronger colours (deep reds, mustard yellows and two tone prints), with heavy black accents defining each model’s outfit. Most of the looks mixed different textures of feathers, wool, small embellishments and tiered rows of layering on the skirts. For S/S 2011 Bunmi Koko offers a very tailored, and sharply silhouetted collection, with nipped in structured jackets, above the knee dresses and tapered trousers.


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Categories ,Bunmi Koko, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,lfw, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Luxury, ,New Talent, ,pom-poms, ,S/S 2011, ,University of East London, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Ones To Watch


Anja Mlakar by Madi

Ones to Watch is always one of my favourite parts of London Fashion Week, information pills four fresh designers, buy more about one after another and always packed to the rafters, clinic it’s a really nice way to see contrasting styles. Generally it’s a mixed bag, read last season’s review here. Famous spots in the audience include infamous blogger Susie Bubble and ethical fashion editor Laura Santamaria. The four young designers were profiled ahead of London Fashion Week by Matt, you can read a bit more about their background, influences and style here.

Anja Mlakar
The designer presented a collection of pastels, with cut out and overlap details. In answer to Matt’s pondering in his write up of the designer, she has indeed developed some of the key styles which were seen in her SS11 show, in particular the laser cut detail and the triangle shape of her dresses. This was a fun, pleasantly pastel, colourful collection with plenty to keep the audience interested.

Kirsty Ward


Kirsty Ward by Anne N’Toko

This is definitely a designer to keep your eye on. Part of a growing crop of young graduates who really bring jewellery into their collections, Kirsty Ward’s AW11 offering was brimming with sparkly adornments and beautifully cut clothes. In particular, the use of cut out panels throughout, was very effective. A palette with gold, bronze and brown, the autumnal colours were accented with sudden all-in-white outfits and stunning oversized necklaces. A favourite for me was the mesh bronze dress, which caught the light beautifully as the model walked down the catwalk.

Sara Bro Jorgensen
Definitely my favourite collection out of the four, Sara Bro Jorgensen has a hint of Mark Fast and Laura Theiss about her designs but has added an edgier, rocky feel to knitted yarns.


Sara Bro Jorgensen by Maria Papadimitriou

Mostly black, her collection showcased knitted dresses with lots of hanging threads and beads. There were also some highly covetable leggings with shiny black slivers of PVC running down the middle of the leg. My favourite part of the collection, however, was the cute headgear sported by all the models. Little knitted caps in black and dark blue were worn with nearly every single look. As well as the black, white knitted cardigans and dresses were worn with grey, splatter print swingy trousers and shorts. The black versus white theme was continued with trompe l’oeil printed dresses complete with tuxedo jacket, waistcoat, shirt and bow tiees.

Tze Goh


Tze Goh by Joe Turvey

The last of our Ones to Watch is Tze Goh who graduated from Parsons in New York and then completed his masters at Central Saint Martins. Goh’s collection was understated, with clean simple lines in block colours of midnight blue, husky grey and black. The structured coats, dresses and jackets cleverly retained their shape as the models walked and I would love to know what material he uses, but I couldn’t help feeling that more could have been done to make the collection stand out. However, I do applaud how he has retained from over designing his clothes and has kept a minimal aesthetic.

Categories ,Anja Mlakar, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Kirsty Ward, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,New Talent, ,review, ,S/S 2011, ,Sara Bro Jorgensen, ,Tze Goh

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Scout Graduate Showcase 2013: New Talent at London Fashion Week S/S 2014

Xiao Lin SS 2014 1 by xplusyequals
Xiao Li S/S 2014 by xplusyequals.

A rainy Sunday London Fashion Week afternoon was spent uncovering a treasure trove of new talent at the Fashion Scout Graduate Presentation at Freemason’s Hall. Here is an insight into what the finest fashion graduates in the UK are producing during the early stages of their career.

LFW Sept 2013-Angus Chiang
Neon floral spacesuit by Angus Chiang.

LFW Sept 2013-Maiko Takeda blue
LFW Sept 2013-Maiko Takeda
Maiko Takeda by Saara Karppinen
Maiko Takeda by Saara Karppinen.

The selection varied immensely, from a bold giant floral spacemen by Angus Chiang from the Shih-Chien University in Taiwan, to the architectural spiked perspex head pieces by Royal College of Art graduate Maiko Takeda.

LFW Sept 2013-Xiao Li
LFW Sept 2013-Xiao Li close up
Xiao Li MA Show Fashion Illustration by Rose Petal Deer (Emily Katherine Reader)
Xiao Li by Rose Petal Deer (Emily Katherine Reader).

But it was the knitwear that really stood out to me, with two graduates in particular pushing this traditional craft into modern new realms. Plump pastel knitwear by Royal College of Art graduate Xiao Li had a wonderfully voluminous shape, combining innovative materials and head turning proportions to make a real impact. Who says wrapping up has to be just about comfort?

Xiao Lin
Xiao Li, photography by Kerry Flint.

Jaimee McKenna
Jaimee McKenna, photography by Kerry Flint.

LFW Sept 2013-Jaimee Mckenna
Jaimee Mckenna by Esther Hong
Jaimee Mckenna by Esther Hong.

Central Saint Martins graduate Jaimee Mckenna had also produced a striking collection of cobalt blue knit dresses that stood out in the dimly lit hall. Closer inspection revealed intricate pleating and multiple layers of knitted lambswool that had been expertly crafted by Jaimee Mckenna to form strong rigid structures that still had movement.

LFW Sept 2013-Lauren Smith Edinburgh
LFW Sept 2013-Lauren Smith Edinburgh close up
Close up detail of dress by Lauren Smith from Edinburgh College of Art.

LFW Sept 2013-Carrie Ann Stein CSM
LFW Sept 2013-Carrie Ann Stein CSM
Intricate textured fabrics by Carrie Ann Stein from Central Saint Martins.

LFW Sept 2013-Min Wu LCF
Dress by Min Wu from the London College of Fashion.

LFW Sept 2013-Sadie Williams
Amazing red metallic A-line maxi dress by Sadie Williams of Central Saint Martins.

This well curated showcase of work by the best UK fashion graduates was an arousing insight into the rapidly changing future of the fashion industry, and for now, it seems, the future is in knit.

All photography by Amelia Gregory unless otherwise stated.

Categories ,Angus Chiang, ,Carrie Ann Stein, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Emily Katherine Reader, ,Esther Hong, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,graduates, ,graduates 2013, ,Jaimee McKenna, ,knitwear, ,Lauren Smith, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maiko Takeda, ,Min Wu, ,New Talent, ,Rose Petal Deer, ,Royal College of Art, ,Saara Karppinen, ,Sadie Williams, ,Shih-Chien University, ,Xiao Li, ,xplusyequals

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Amelia’s Magazine | Morphopolis: an illustrated computer game inspired by the natural world

Morphopolis computer game
Morphopolis is a visually stunning adventure game lovingly crafted by two architecture graduates and designers, Dan Walters and Ceri Williams. It was inspired by two other games: Machinarium and The Tiny Bang Story, with players taken on a lucid and fantastical journey of transformation and discovery that enables them to explore and interact with beautifully illustrated scenes to find hidden objects and solve puzzles.

Morphopolis computer game
Morphopolis won the Association of Illustrators Award in the Design category for New Talent and will be on display at Somerset House in London during October before touring nationally. I asked Ceri to explain the process behind their creation, and he was happy to oblige.

YouTube Preview Image
Morphopolis is an independent game conceived and produced Dan Walters and myself. The production began in July 2012 and has continued as a part time project alongside professional work. Dan and I met whilst studying a the Welsh School of Architecture in Cardiff and he subsequently qualified as an architect before quitting the profession to become a games developer. He asked me to collaborate on a project last year since he wanted to work with an illustrator who did not have preconceptions about video game art direction.

Morphopolis computer game
We set about trying to create a game that would appeal to a broad audience regardless of age, gender or previous experience playing games. The narrative and tone for the game came from this starting point and we hope that the natural insect world taps into people’s innate curiosity and reminds the player of a time when they have peered into the undergrowth to quietly observe the bugs and beetles. This idea of looking closely at a micro world is a fascination that we think all people have shared at some point in their lives, usually as toddlers and children.

Morphopolis computer game
The game is a hidden object adventure, which is a genre sometimes known as point-and-click. Essentially its a bit like an interactive Where’s Wally with extra puzzles and interaction within the scenes. Players must uncover puzzles and find items hidden around the scene to progress in the game.

Morphopolis computer game
The game explores the idea of metamorphosis and increase of scale. Each chapter sees the character changing into a larger insect and therefore seeing more of this larger world that they inhabit. As the chapters progress the natural environment starts to take on a more architectural language with intertwined roots becoming huge cathedrals and plants becoming canopies. There is also this architectural quality at the smallest scale where blades of grass become skyscrapers and individual plants become huge landscapes.

Morphopolis computer game
The art style was developed to reflect this intricate and lush world. A number of ink washes and pencil markings where created to form texture layers used within the colouring process. To create the scenes large drawings were produced as chapter ‘blueprints’. These included the whole chapter with various scenes and the routes for character movement, puzzles and interactions. From these the various parts were traced off and turned into pen line drawings which were scanned before being coloured in Photoshop. Each element of the scenes were created as individual layers to allow for larger compositions to be made and the scenes to be grown organically. These images were then uploaded to an editing software which was created by Dan especially for this game. Components were added to scenes or composed to make animations and puzzles were added.

Morphopolis computer game
The game currently exists as an Open Alpha which is a playable but unfinished version available for purchase from our website. We are working towards releasing the finished version this year and hope to coincide the launch with an exhibition at Somerset House which shows the game alongside other winners of the Association of Illustrators Awards. While we finish off the game we’re incorporating as much feedback as we can get so it would be fantastic to hear any thoughts from your readers. (please do leave your thoughts below in the comments section x)

YouTube Preview Image
Hear Dan and Ceri talking about the game above. Isn’t Morphopolis beautiful? You can get involved with Morphopolis here.

Categories ,Adventure Game, ,Association of Illustrators Award, ,cardiff, ,Ceri Williams, ,Dan Walters, ,game, ,Machinarium, ,Metamorphosis, ,Morphopolis, ,New Talent, ,Open Alpha, ,Photoshop, ,Point and Click, ,Somerset House, ,The Tiny Bang Story, ,Welsh School of Architecture

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