Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week preview: an intimate interview with Bora Aksu

David Longshaw
For Spring Summer 2011, viagra 60mg David Longshaw says he was inspired by ‘chav dogs, cialis 40mg feathers and a ruffle or two and a story I wrote’. The tale apparently describes the outcome when some hoodies break into a stately home and end up dressing up in period clothing. I am waiting with baited breath to see the results! Don’t miss David’s upcoming round up of LFW exclusively for Amelia’s Magazine.

Eudon Choi

A/W 2010, photographed by Matt Bramford

Eudon Choi has been much talked-about over the six months that have passed since the last London Fashion Week. As well as being awarded Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Merit Award, he was named as a winner of the BFC Elle Talent Launch Pad. His Merit Award collection has been greatly anticipated; expect industrial references, masculine tailoring and military embellishments, cutting an edgy yet sophisticated silhouette.

Bernard Chandran


A/W 2010, photographed by Matt Bramford

Malaysia’s Prince of Fashion, Bernard Chandran, continued to impress with his powerful, glimmering AW2010 collection. Glamour prevailed; power shoulders were paired with luxe beading, sequins, feathers and exposed backs, providing the ultimate in wearable opulence. Look out for Lady Gaga and Florence Welch queuing up for his fresh flamboyance.

Eley Kishimoto

A/W 2010, photographed by Matt Bramford

Eley Kishimoto never fail to impress with their unmistakable graphic prints. Expect another eclectic mix for SS11, with inspiration cited as “imitation, 3D on 2D and clothes drying on a rack”. After a notably scaled-down, pop-up shop presence last Fashion Week, it will be interesting to see what they show this time at Shoreditch Studios.

Ziad Ghanem

Ziad Ghanem couture, illustrated by Joana Faria

When Matt Bramford recently interviewed coutourier Ziad Ghanem for Amelia’s Magazine, he revealed that he has been making a film for his new collection. After February’s show-stopping runway performance from Immodesty Blaize, the oncreen unveiling of his latest collection is eagerly anticipated.
Bora Aksu studio. by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu in his studio. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I’ve championed Bora Aksu since the very first issue of Amelia’s Magazine in print way back in 2004. The four times New Gen winner has come a long way since then…. As we head inexorably into the next manic edition of London Fashion Week the time has come to run an interview I did with the lovely Bora Aksu some months back, sales when he was kind enough to welcome me into his high ceilinged studio in West Ferry Studios, mind east London.

Zarina Liew bora aksu
Zarina Liew bora aksu
Zarina Liew bora aksu
Bora Aksu’s A/W 2010 collection by Zarina Liew.

Bora’s wonderful Autumn/Winter 2010 collection combined layers and flounces with corsetry and alienesque details. It was all about structure, approved layers and textures working together, but was it just me that saw the alien thing?
I suppose I was thinking about aliens when I designed the collection, but it was so subconscious that I didn’t even say anything to the team. I kept picturing things emerging from the body in a super natural way: other people have picked up on it since, but many have been more focused on the corsetry and 3D shapes. I love the way corsets create flattering shapes that compliment the body and I like muted colours because then they create more of a blank canvas so I can concentrate on line and texture. I suppose I like the colours in shadows, the in between colours that you can’t describe instantly – and then sometimes I like a splash of brighter colour. Luckily this all fits into the current trend for nudes. although I don’t deliberately follow trends. I like to think of it as mixing the sugary and the spiky, sort of Marie Antoinette meets Edward Scissorhands!

Bora Aksu by Faye West
Bora Aksu by Faye West.

How did you learn to work in this way?
You need to do the A-Z of design first so you know the whole process of pattern cutting and how to use fabrics, but being a good designer involves more than just technical training. The way you execute an idea is the most important part and this can’t be resolved with just paper and pencil – it needs a hands on approach. For example I like to do a lot of draping. In Turkey they have all the equipment but that’s not enough. The experimental mindset is lacking. I came to London 15 years ago to study, and even though I had no money I was surrounded by inspiration. You need to be able to make something beautiful out of nothing. That’s why in Turkey there is still the concept that to be successful you need to have designed abroad.

Bora Aksu bags
Bora Aksu shoes
Accessories hang in neat rows in Bora’s studio.

But isn’t it all changing in Turkey? There seems to be a bit of a buzz.
Turkey has a great cultural heritage and a strong factory supply base, but there was no fashion education to speak of when I came to study in the UK. However in the past ten years lots of universities have sprung up as fashion has become more popular as a career. Did you know there are now over 115 fashion weeks across the world? I love Istanbul but I don’t get back as often as I would like: I try to go for one month at a time between the February and September shows and I’ve done two seasons of Istanbul fashion week (including this year) but it’s not always possible to get away.

Bora Aksu by Maria del Carmen Smith-01
Bora Aksu by Maria del Carmen Smith.

What do your parents feel about your career in fashion?
Turkey is very family orientated and traditional: both my parents are doctors so I grew up breathing medical science. They were worried I wouldn’t be successful as an artist so my first degree was actually in business administration although I always knew I wanted to do ‘art and crafts’. Luckily I got accepted onto my second degree with only a sketch book to my name, but my marketing background bubbles up to the surface sometimes! But to give my parents full credit they were happy for me to follow my dream and stand by me which is an amazing feeling – to have not just their approval but their support. I have always been supported on my journey and my mother came to my first shows although she doesn’t like flying so she hasn’t been recently.

Bora Aksu collage
A mood board features one of Bora’s illustrations.

You famously attended the prestigious Central Saint Martins MA course. How did this shape you?
I spent a year working for Ghost because I didn’t want to go straight onto an MA, and I was massively influenced by their approach. Luckily it was a paid internship, which is rare to find now. It prepared me for the MA at Central Saint Martins, where it’s more like working for a company with strict deadlines. It is the Central Saint Martins ethos to breed creative beings whilst other colleges just think “let’s get our students a job in design” so most of time you are left to create designs on your own in a very free spirited way, which is a good platform to start from. You then have to present everything as a whole package in the best possible way so the students are really pushed and inevitably some people drop out because they can’t cope. My MA taught me that there are no rules in fashion and really gave me a chance to find my style.

Bora Aksu by Maria del Carmen Smith
Bora Aksu by Maria del Carmen Smith.

How did being in London influence your work?
In London so many different cultures are mixed together but somehow everything works in harmony, so you can be very free in your creativity. You see that especially in fashion: out of 10 students on my MA there were 7 different nationalities and I constantly meet people from other places: my wife Fella is from Mauritius. [she chatters away in Creole with his right hand man, who is also from Mauritius]. The Class of 2002 was pretty special: I graduated from my MA with Jens Laugesson, Jonathan Saunders, Miki Fugai and Richard Nichol.

Bora Aksu necklaces
Bora Aksu shoes 2
More stuff hanging up.

That’s pretty amazing! Are you in any way competitive with each other, or are you all good friends?
We’re not competitive because we’re all just busy doing our own thing and we all design so differently. People think of the coldness and isolation created by the fashion PR world, but it’s not like that on the creative side at all. There may only be a small market for consultancy but everyone has a place and we really help each other, for example we tell each other about good manufacturers to use and so on. I’ve also recently become friends with Mark Fast, who used to work on knitwear with me.

Bora Aksu by Maria del Carmen Smith
Bora Aksu by Maria del Carmen Smith.

Where does all this stuff in your studio come from?
I used to go to every single car boot fair in London, buying up old bags, army boots, old account books, handkerchiefs, laces, leather embossed bags… and I started to put things around me that I liked whilst designing a collection. I don’t think about whether the styles clash, I just go on my personal taste. I hang stuff up and take photos of it together whilst thinking about what to design.

Bora Aksu doll face
Bora Aksu manequinn
Bora Aksu doll
Mannequins around the studio sport collections of random objects.

What happens next?
I undo old garments so I can see the binding and hand finishing inside, which is often more beautiful than the outside. I’ve got boxes and boxes of stuff behind these walls – I try to get rid of stuff but I get emotionally attached to things and even if I only look at it once a year it’s comforting to know that it’s there. My mum is a collector so now she has an excuse to buy stuff too, because I might want it.

Bora Aksu dress by Joana Faria
Bora Aksu dress by Joana Faria.

How are you various collaborations going?
I’m still doing stuff with People Tree and will continue to do so, and I’m going to design a capsule collection for Anthropologie. It’s frustrating because the ethical thing should be more substantial and ongoing than it is. The western world has such a huge influence and every high street store should be more ethical; one t-shirt produced in Bangladesh has a huge knock on effect for whole families. But it’s no good producing undesirable garments because most teenagers don’t care where a garment is from, they just want fashionable clothing like celebrities wear. People Tree’s Safia Minney has a really good sense of what the customer wants, and we must concentrate on design.

Zarina Liew bora aksu PeopleTree
Bora Aksu’s People Tree collaboration by Zarina Liew.

How do you try to be ethical in the production of your own collections?
I source cotton from Turkey but I try to produce most of my clothes locally in the UK. Time is the main factor in producing ethical clothing – it takes much longer to design because of the limitations so you need to plan in advance. I also try to look for companies that are disappearing because there is no demand for their products. I’ve just been to the EcoChic show in Geneva where I found an ethical fish leather available in any colour, produced by some Brasilian fishermen. I use recycled latex. I’m not against leather but I don’t think its necessary to use fur – it may be nice to the touch but it’s not attractive and technology is so advanced we can surely make something else that’s similar.

Bora Aksu fabric metallic
Bora Aksu fabric
Close ups of the wonderful fabrics used in the A/W 2010 collection.

How do you find London Fashion Week these days?
I’m not sure the high turnover of new designers is such a good thing – it doesn’t happen in Paris or Milan. But then we don’t have big fashion houses and we’re known as a new talent hub. Maybe we need to emphasise that more, but all new designers also need to stand on their own two feet so they get a good buyer base: so many designers aren’t ready to deal with the whole business side of fashion.

What about working with Blow PR? You’ve had a close relationship for a long time haven’t you?
I’ve been looked after by them for over six years now and I love working with Blow PR – it’s become more of a friendship. My last collection was well received in the press and orders have been good.

Bora Aksu knit
Bora Aksu ruffles
More fabulous Bora fabrics.

And to finish on a cheeky note, you and Fella obviously work together very well. How did you get together?
We were flatmates and good friends first! She’s been my studio manager for five years and we used to live in the studio here but it all got a bit much so we now live in Angel, Islington, which means we can leave work behind. My friends have started to have kids, but it looks like hard work… I like to take the laid back approach – when you plan too much it usually doesn’t work because there’s a gap between imagination and what might happen. I always believe you should follow arrows, not push at doors.

Bora Aksu illustration
Bora Aksu illustration
Bora Aksu illustrations on the walls of his studio.

Before I leave Bora gives me a guided tour of his studio, where I have ample opportunity to feel his clothing up and marvel at some of his wonderful illustrations that adorn any gaps in the wall. Tomorrow Bora shows his S/S 2011 collection on the first day of London Fashion Week. There’s no doubting it will be every bit as magical as the last one was: he is one very special man.

Categories ,Anthropologie, ,Bora Aksu, ,EcoChic, ,Faye West, ,Joana Faria, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria del Carmen Smith, ,New Gen, ,People Tree, ,Safia Minney, ,Zarina Liew

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Holly Fulton


Illustration by Gemma Randall

Christopher Shannon burst onto the catwalk in true and typical chavvy style to launch menswear day, see for me at least, more about on Wednesday. His wasn’t the first show; we didn’t get tickets for Lou Dalton (a real shame, as I was really looking forward to that one) or Topman Design (meh). There’s a strange feeling in the air on LFW’s Wednesday – it’s eerily quiet, people are more relaxed and you could actually swing a cat around in the press room, should you desire, for the first time in five days.

Shannon showed alongside JW Anderson in the BFC space, but even with these two heavyweights of menswear design presenting back to back, the venue still wasn’t full. It’s a shame that there isn’t as much interest in menswear, but the editors had all shipped off to Milan, I guess…

Shannon was up first and his show featured some of my favourite guilty pleasure tracks – Blu Cantrell, for instance. Tune! This kind of music sits hand in hand with his unique blend of street-inspired sportswear and edgy, boyish tailoring. The first looks were all crisp white numbers, featuring engineered t-shirts with geometric holes, multi-pocketed shorts and bucket hats, followed by sweaters with mesh details. I like Shannon’s fancy-free approach to menswear – it’s for young, hip individuals who care about style but not about stuffy suits.

Progressing into outerwear, the collection bore sports-luxe jackets, more mesh, and shorter shorts. Shannon’s garish but great rucksacks, a long-term callabo with Eastpak, made an appearance in similar tones as last season – pale greys and baby blues.


Illustration by Gemma Randall

Further in, Shannon’s signature camo-graffiti prints showed up, bringing a welcomed burst of colour in the form of pale blues. I like this print A LOT – it works on padded puffas, shorts and even bucket hats (although I doubt I’ll be seen in the entire get up – the pattern is intense and it needs breaking up a little, I think).

His scally charm shone through on more printed numbers, where sections had been cut away, and the reappearing camo print. Panelled trousers, though, displayed the menswear designer’s continual progression – sand chinos displayed oblong sections in luscious pastel colours made the move from teenage fashion. Vibrant yellows hinted at that ballsy appeal many of us were looking for.

Faces were painted like colloquial masks, apparently inspired by longing for a holiday, but I’m going to ignore this literal influence — as much as it looked fun, it fought to distract from some pretty sophisticated tailoring. All in all, a toned-down collection compared to what we are used to. As the chavvy charmer continues to grow up, so will – I hope – his collections.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Illustration by Gemma Randall

Christopher Shannon burst onto the catwalk in true and typical chavvy style to launch menswear day, find for me at least, on Wednesday. His wasn’t the first show; we didn’t get tickets for Lou Dalton (a real shame, as I was really looking forward to that one) or Topman Design (meh). There’s a strange feeling in the air on LFW’s Wednesday – it’s eerily quiet, people are more relaxed and you could actually swing a cat around in the press room, should you desire, for the first time in five days.

Shannon showed alongside JW Anderson in the BFC space, but even with these two heavyweights of menswear design presenting back to back, the venue still wasn’t full. It’s a shame that there isn’t as much interest in menswear, but the editors had all shipped off to Milan, I guess…

Shannon was up first and his show featured some of my favourite guilty pleasure tracks – Blu Cantrell, for instance. Tune! This kind of music sits hand in hand with his unique blend of street-inspired sportswear and edgy, boyish tailoring. The first looks were all crisp white numbers, featuring engineered t-shirts with geometric holes, multi-pocketed shorts and bucket hats, followed by sweaters with mesh details. I like Shannon’s fancy-free approach to menswear – it’s for young, hip individuals who care about style but not about stuffy suits.

Progressing into outerwear, the collection bore sports-luxe jackets, more mesh, and shorter shorts. Shannon’s garish but great rucksacks, a long-term callabo with Eastpak, made an appearance in similar tones as last season – pale greys and baby blues.


Illustration by Gemma Randall

Further in, Shannon’s signature camo-graffiti prints showed up, bringing a welcomed burst of colour in the form of pale blues. I like this print A LOT – it works on padded puffas, shorts and even bucket hats (although I doubt I’ll be seen in the entire get up – the pattern is intense and it needs breaking up a little, I think).

His scally charm shone through on more printed numbers, where sections had been cut away, and the reappearing camo print. Panelled trousers, though, displayed the menswear designer’s continual progression – sand chinos displayed oblong sections in luscious pastel colours made the move from teenage fashion. Vibrant yellows hinted at that ballsy appeal many of us were looking for.

Faces were painted like colloquial masks, apparently inspired by longing for a holiday, but I’m going to ignore this literal influence — as much as it looked fun, it fought to distract from some pretty sophisticated tailoring. All in all, a toned-down collection compared to what we are used to. As the chavvy charmer continues to grow up, so will – I hope – his collections.

All photography by Matt Bramford

LFW Holly Fulton by KAYLEIGH BLUCK
Holly Fulton by Kayleigh Bluck.

For S/S 2011 Holly Fulton took inspiration from Joan Collins and 60s cruise wear as her “ladies” went on a fantastical tour of luxury living in all the most chic resorts: Monaco, order Egypt, ed Brazil, Hollywood. If this woman exists in reality she would surely be the most shallow creature on the planet, but such is the way of fashion: it thrives on escapism.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

holly fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
holly fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
Holly Fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén.

This was the first Holly Fulton catwalk show I’ve attended, and being a fan I was intrigued to see how her aesthetic has held up in a year when her influence on the high street has been massive – particularly where large jewellery is concerned.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy.

The show started strongly with a bright orange cracked paving print blouse atop a tiered fringed pencil skirt before giving way to a look that I would say took as much inspiration from the flared shapes of the 70s as it did the decade before. Yellow skater style flared skirts featured laser cut cocktail patterns. Heels were so high one model was forced to remove hers for the finale.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW Holly Fulton by KAYLEIGH BLUCK
Holly Fulton by Kayleigh Bluck.

Holly is at her strongest when she puts together Aztec, Aboriginal and Memphis School inspired appliques on the front of long panels. Flares, shift dresses and maxi skirts provided ample opportunity for this, accessorised with the usual fabulous necklaces and decorated clutch bags. They were accompanied by suitably luxe big earrings and big hair.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

The collection only started to falter once towards the end, when Holly sent a few dresses down the runway that seemed obviously tacked on to appease sponsors Swarovski. Goodness knows why she decided to finish on these less polished numbers, instead of interspersing them through the whole show.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy.

Like David Koma before her Holly used python, this time in its natural colouring as part of heavily textured patterning so that it was less obvious from afar. Maybe a luxury feel demands some kind of obvious domination over the rest of the world, but I’m not sure I like this new trend towards exotic animal skins (see my David Koma blog for more on my thoughts). Other than this blip she remains an innovative and individual designer who’s very definitely one step ahead of her imitators.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,1960s, ,1970s, ,Aboriginal, ,Aniela Murphy, ,Aztec, ,BFC Tent, ,David Koma, ,Holly Fulton, ,Joan Collins, ,Kayleigh Bluck, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Memphis School, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,Python skin, ,Swarovski

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Presentation Review: Ada Zanditon (reprise)

Lu-Flux-by-David-Merta
Lu Flux by David Merta.

The Lu Flux presentation was one that suffered slightly from inexperience. On arrival at an upmarket Soho members’ club on Greek Street we were ushered into the back garden where we were left twiddling our thumbs until the presentation started. Fortunately I didn’t accept the offer of an expensive members’ drink from a loitering waitress, malady hospital and a short time later we were shown into the darkened arches of the chapel.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

As we walked through the doorway we remained uncertain of what to do until Lu eagerly ushered everyone into the darkened recesses of the church, tea served in one corner, and delightful miniature home made fairy cakes in another, all served by ladies in last season’s applique lion dress. I’m not usually a fan of cupcakes but hunger persuaded me to try these ones and they were very yummy and nice, made by Yummy Nice in fact.

LFW-LUFLUX-JOCHEUNG Rob Logan
Rob Logan models Lu Flux, by Jo Cheung.

In the corner I immediately spotted my friend Rob, who had been asked to model at the last minute and clearly thought he would get away with it unnoticed by pesky mates such as me who are bound to take the piss (just a tiny bit). He should have known better with me loitering around the fashion world.

Lu Flux SS2011 Rob Logan photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Rob Logan photo by Amelia Gregory
Rob chats with some of the other models and takes a look through the charming illustrated look book.

It was a wonderful setting to show a collection but my heart sank almost immediately. No decent lighting. How then to take good photos? Flash simply never looks as nice in a setting such as this. It’s so so important to consider what you want to achieve from a show or presentation, but aside from introducing buyers and press to your collection it must surely be to ensure that fabulous images find their way out into the universe. It’s not that much to hire decent studio lights and they are a massive boon.

Lu Flux photo by Amelia gregory
Lu Flux photo by Amelia gregory

Lu had staged a delightful little scenario, whereby the models were able to move about and take their turn to be drawn by one of the illustrators who has contributed a wonderful modern update of a china plate pattern to her latest collection. Lu described how it features not only herself and her boyfriend but also their dog and various other assorted friends – I thought it found a particularly fetching home on a shorts suit for men. As the live sketches were finished they were hung from a clothes line to be admired by the visitors.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory

Lu Flux creations are wonderfully playful without being too childish and I love the way that she makes the most of the smallest of details. This colourful collection featured gorgeous embroidered pockets, origami inspired folds, looped ribbons and one off appliqued shoes done in collaboration with Green Shoes of Devon.

Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux in collaboration with Green Shoes.

Lu-Flux-shoes-by-David-Merta
Lu Flux by David Merta.

Despite a few teething problems it’s great to see that a few ethical designers are making a real effort to present their collections in an inspiring way that sets them alongside the bigger names of LFW. For it is only when ethical thinking starts to permeate the more mainstream byways of fashion as standard practice that things will really start to change for the better.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory
A close up of the china plate pattern.

You can read Sally Mumby-Croft’s review of the same presentation here.

Lu-Flux-by-David-Merta
Lu Flux by David Merta.

The Lu Flux presentation was one that suffered slightly from inexperience. On arrival at an upmarket Soho members’ club on Greek Street we were ushered into the back garden where we were left twiddling our thumbs until the presentation started. Fortunately I didn’t accept the offer of an expensive members’ drink from a loitering waitress, viagra buy and a short time later we were shown into the darkened arches of the chapel.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

As we walked through the doorway we remained uncertain of what to do until Lu eagerly ushered everyone into the darkened recesses of the church, buy information pills tea served in one corner, and delightful miniature home made fairy cakes in another, all served by ladies in last season’s applique lion dress. I’m not usually a fan of cupcakes but hunger persuaded me to try these ones and they were very yummy and nice, made by Yummy Nice in fact.

LFW-LUFLUX-JOCHEUNG Rob Logan
Rob Logan models Lu Flux, by Jo Cheung.

I immediately spotted my friend Rob, who had been asked to model a very fetching outfit of navy polka dot shirt, green trousers, yellow socks and blue shoes and clearly thought he would get away with it unnoticed by pesky mates such as me who are bound to take the piss (just a tiny bit). He should have known better with me loitering around the fashion world.

Lu Flux SS2011 Rob Logan photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Rob Logan photo by Amelia Gregory
Rob chats with some of the other models and takes a look through the charming illustrated look book.

It was a wonderful setting to show a collection but my heart sank almost immediately. No decent lighting. How then to take good photos? Flash simply never looks as nice in a setting such as this. It’s so so important to consider what you want to achieve from a show or presentation, but aside from introducing buyers and press to your collection it must surely be to ensure that fabulous images find their way out into the universe. It’s not that much to hire decent studio lights and they are a massive boon.

Lu Flux photo by Amelia gregory
Lu Flux photo by Amelia gregory

Lu had staged a delightful little scenario, whereby the models were able to move about and take their turn to be drawn by one of the illustrators who has contributed a wonderful modern update of a china plate pattern to her latest collection. Lu described how it features not only herself and her boyfriend but also their dog and various other assorted friends – I thought it found a particularly fetching home on a shorts suit for men. As the live sketches were finished they were hung from a clothes line to be admired by the visitors.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory

Lu Flux creations are wonderfully playful without being too childish and I love the way that she makes the most of the smallest of details. This colourful collection featured gorgeous embroidered pockets, origami inspired folds, looped ribbons and one off appliqued shoes done in collaboration with Green Shoes of Devon.

Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux in collaboration with Green Shoes.

Lu-Flux-shoes-by-David-Merta
Lu Flux by David Merta.

Despite a few teething problems it’s great to see that a few ethical designers are making a real effort to present their collections in an inspiring way that sets them alongside the bigger names of LFW. For it is only when ethical thinking starts to permeate the more mainstream byways of fashion as standard practice that things will really start to change for the better.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory
A close up of the china plate pattern.

You can read Sally Mumby-Croft’s review of the same presentation here.

Lu-Flux-by-David-Merta
Lu Flux by David Merta.

The Lu Flux presentation was one that suffered slightly from inexperience. On arrival at an upmarket Soho members’ club on Greek Street we were ushered into the back garden where we were left twiddling our thumbs until the presentation started. Fortunately I didn’t accept the offer of an expensive members’ drink from a loitering waitress, this and a short time later we were shown into the darkened arches of the chapel.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

As we walked through the doorway we remained uncertain of what to do until Lu eagerly ushered everyone into the darkened recesses of the church, mind tea served in one corner, cheapest and delightful miniature home made fairy cakes in another, all served by ladies in last season’s applique lion dress. I’m not usually a fan of cupcakes but hunger persuaded me to try these ones and they were very yummy and nice, made by Yummy Nice in fact.

LFW-LUFLUX-JOCHEUNG Rob Logan
Rob Logan models Lu Flux, by Jo Cheung.

I immediately spotted my friend Rob, who had been asked to model a very fetching outfit of navy polka dot shirt, green trousers, yellow socks and blue shoes and clearly thought he would get away with it unnoticed by pesky mates such as me who are bound to take the piss (just a tiny bit). He should have known better with me loitering around the fashion world.

Lu Flux SS2011 Rob Logan photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Rob Logan photo by Amelia Gregory
Rob chats with some of the other models and takes a look through the charming illustrated look book.

It was a wonderful setting to show a collection but my heart sank almost immediately. No decent lighting. How then to take good photos? Flash simply never looks as nice in a setting such as this. It’s so so important to consider what you want to achieve from a show or presentation, but aside from introducing buyers and press to your collection it must surely be to ensure that fabulous images find their way out into the universe. It’s not that much to hire decent studio lights and they are a massive boon.

Lu Flux photo by Amelia gregory
Lu Flux photo by Amelia gregory

Lu had staged a delightful little scenario, whereby the models were able to move about and take their turn to be drawn by one of the illustrators who has contributed a lovely updated china plate pattern to her latest collection. Lu described how it features not only herself and her boyfriend but also their dog and various other assorted friends – I thought it found a particularly fetching home on a shorts suit for men. As the live sketches were finished they were hung from a clothes line to be admired by the visitors.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory

Lu Flux creations are wonderfully playful without being too childish and I love the way that she makes the most of the smallest of details. This colourful collection featured gorgeous embroidered pockets, origami inspired folds, looped ribbons and one off appliqued shoes done in collaboration with Green Shoes of Devon.

Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux in collaboration with Green Shoes.

Lu-Flux-shoes-by-David-Merta
Lu Flux by David Merta.

Despite a few teething problems it’s great to see that a few ethical designers are making a real effort to present their collections in an inspiring way that sets them alongside the bigger names of LFW. For it is only when ethical thinking starts to permeate the more mainstream byways of fashion, as standard practice, that things will really start to change for the better.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory
A close up of the china plate pattern.

You can read Sally Mumby-Croft’s review of the same presentation here.

Abby_Wright_Ada_Zanditon_LFW
Ada Zanditon by Abigail Wright.

As one of the most interesting ethical designers around Ada Zanditon has naturally been a popular designer to feature on this blog (read a pre-fashion week interview with her here). It is therefore really heartening to see her with a serious slot on the schedule. It was a fight to get past the terrier-like press girls who had been given queue duty, clinic but we managed to get a pole spot from which to watch Ada’s presentation in the hallway at Victoria House, link all lubricated by some nice drinks sponsorship from Vita Coco, which is obviously aimed at an excitable pre-Olympics market.

ada zandition - abi daker - ss11
ada zandition - abi daker - ss11
Ada Zanditon by Abigail Daker.

Ada showed a confident collection of pyramid and coral reef inspired dresses that utilised every last scrap of fabric. Autumnal colours continued a slightly strange trend, with models posing at a series of Olympic flame inspired sculptures. Special mention has to go to the hair, which was superbly quaffed into triangular styles by Christian Landon to echo the sculptural dresses. If I had one quibble it was that the models did not make enough use of the props, which could have made for even more interesting photo opportunities.

Abby_Wright_Ada_Zanditon_LFW
Ada Zanditon by Abigail Wright.

On our way out I spotted Ada’s partner Philip Levine, aka Lazy Gramophone, aka the man with the decorated head. For this occasion he had smothered his bounce in gold leaf, surely a very time consuming exercise. As we left he could be seen ferociously guarding a pile of goodie bags in the corner. To whom were these to go? Several people in front of me were turned away, but since I wanted information for this blog I pressed forward. For one moment I thought it might be a bit of a Computer Says No situation but some sixth sense clearly told Philip otherwise. I’m not sure that he wanted to hear that his gold leaf was falling off though.

Guarding-the-Giftbags-Philip Levine by Kellie-Black
“Guarding the Giftbags” by Kellie Black.

The bag was very heavy but it was just as well I picked one up, for I’ve since been deluged with emails by sponsor Ecover, who were responsible for the aforementioned weight. But enough of my griping for Ada Zanditon put on fantastic presentation, and I look forward to a full catwalk show next season. Now click on over and read Sally Mumby-Croft’s fab review of this very same presentation here.

Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Abigail Daker, ,Abigail Wright, ,Ada Zanditon, ,Ecover, ,Kellie Black, ,Lazy Gramophone, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Philip Levine, ,Vita Coco

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Mode, Carlotta Actis Barone

Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba.

It was the huge and elaborate headdresses by Rachel Galley that grabbed our immediate attention as the first models traversed the catwalk, visit their steady heads bearing wide concoctions of twirling metal, flowers and swinging tassels for Carlotta Actis Barone‘s S/S 2012 commentary ‘on the stolen liberty and beauty associated with prostitution.’

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Carlotta Actis Barone is one of three designers who are being mentored by Fashion Mode, a mysterious entity that provides direction and support in everything from design to business management and marketing.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas.

The new collection was inspired by a cross pollination of cultural ideas: Victorian brothels and French boudoir style from the turn of the last century contrasted with the high class prostitution and honour traditionally associated with being a Geisha.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 by t. reidy
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by t.reidy.

Swishing lilac and cream dresses with roped detailing around the bust and waist signified the imprisonment of prostitution, whilst loosely draped pencil skirts and lingerie-styled tunics suggested a more playful air of seduction, accessorised with wide patterned kimono inspired waist wraps.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Orchid hair accessories and china doll make-up added to the air of naive idolisation of feminine beauty, but the clash of styles did not always work. Wrinkled tights patterned with stripes of letters (a signature of Barone) were a questionable styling detail and high heeled see through plastic stripper shoes filled with orchids were downright tacky, but overall this was an eye-catching collection from a talented new designer with original ideas. Amongst my favourite pieces were cream big pocketed trench coats with huge flouncy bows on the bum, and vibrant tropical printed silk dresses in green, vermillion and lime.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

The definitely not very shy and retiring Carlotta Actis Barone was wearing one of her printed boudoir wraps when she strode out to take a bow at the end of the catwalk, and – somewhat ironically given the theme of her collection – her bosoms made an excited bid for freedom, much to the amusement of the crowd.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Brothels, ,Carlotta Actis Barone, ,Casey Otremba, ,China Doll, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Mode, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,French Boudoir, ,Geisha, ,Headdresses, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Megan Thomas, ,Orchids, ,prints, ,Prostitution, ,Rachel Galley, ,Stripper Shoes, ,t.reidy, ,Tassels, ,Tina Reidy, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Peter Jensen

Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton
Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton.

For this season Peter Jensen was inspired by the force of nature that was Nina Simone, thumb picking on the many facets of her legendary life for inspiration, prescription including her overwhelming devil-may-care attitude. Presented in the Portico Rooms to a backdrop of classical music played live on a grand piano by Maria Marchant, this was a confident collection from a man who is assured of his place in the pantheon of established fashion designers.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter-Jensen SS-2012 by-Barb-Royal
Peter Jensen SS-2012 by Barb Royal.

Against the kitsch decor of a gold potted palm tree and signature neon bunny Peter Jensen sent out his girls in rabbit eared shades from Fabris Lane and elegant headscarfs by Bernstock Speirs: broderie anglaise, pan collars, pencil skirts with peplums, big hoop earrings by Erickson Beamon and ankle socks with t-bars all alluded to Nina Simone‘s early days as a good church going Southern girl.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Rebecca Strickson
Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Rebecca Strickson.

Then from the 70s Peter Jensen brought us relaxed gold lame jerseywear teamed with swinging gold clasp handbags and bow decorated clutches. Sexy figure hugging scribble leopard print pants were teamed with lightweight gold cable knit jumpers. A colourful block print safari on a slim trench coat and crop-legged suit was inspired by the flickering TV static of constant attention on Nina Simone, from both audience and media.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

A cheeky bi colour repeat parrot print gave a modern edge to a bare-shouldered peplum dress. Flounces running down the shoulders of a denim blue bib dress and frills just below the waist of a full gingham skirt were indicative of the cheeky feel that ran throughout this collection and was equally matched in the relaxed glamour stakes – pure Peter Jensen in other words.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Spotted in the audience, a man with the most amazing twirly beard.

Categories ,79s, ,Barb Royal, ,Bernstock Speirs, ,Bunnies, ,Clutch Bags, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Erickson Beamon, ,Fabris Lane, ,Frills, ,Gold, ,Leopard Print, ,lfw, ,live music, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Marchant, ,Nina, ,Nina Simone, ,Pan Collars, ,pencil skirt, ,Peter Jensen, ,piano, ,Portico Rooms, ,Rabbit, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Safari, ,Somerset House, ,Village press

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Presentation Review: Cooperative Designs

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

In our pre- London Fashion Week interview with Cooperative Designs , here the design duo discussed the incredible presentations they produced for S/S 2010 (Bauhaus) and A/W 2010;

“With a presentation we have the opportunity to design the entire event, we try to encapsulate the feel of the collection as an real experience for our guests. This season we are showing at the Groucho Club, and we have some really exciting plans!”

These were the words of Annalisa Dunn and upon entering the packed out Groucho Club, it was the designers had produced something rather special. It was a scene straight from one of my favourite books, Evelyn Waugh’s satiric love affair with London’s upper classes: Vile Bodies (or Bright Young Things to give the book it’s film title).

Utilising the ever-so-shabby, but rather wonderful art deco setting of the Groucho Club, the set designed by David White encouraged the “good time” atmosphere that was infectious from the moment you walked in.

In the centre of the room alongside the live piano, the models were arranged as in a frieze so beloved of traditional painting. Holding their position, they laughed and smiled as cameras snapped Cooperative Designs’ celebrated structural and incredibly textural knitwear. This year saw the introduction of raffia and jersey into their material repertoire.

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

A Cooperative Designs presentation is a sought after event, by the time I had to leave, a one in one out policy had been implemented, as the upstairs room overflowed with admirers. The fantastic glasses adorning the models were made in collaboration with Alex Cunningham and the intriguing ready-for-the-beach wedges were in association with Flip Flop. As fitting such a special event many of the audience came dressed in previous seasons, making the clothes more covetable for the ease in which they are worn.

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Ever captivated by the fabrics and shapes used by Cooperative Designs, it was a delight to discuss their design process with Annalisa:

“Dorothee has more of a womenswear background then me, she has developed a process she calls Primary pattern cutting. Pieces are designed as flat graphic angular shapes then left to drape and distort on the body. This process particularly suits knitwear, as it has such great drape and stretch properties.”

A more apt title could not be found, for the presentation was titled Bollywood Babylon, which in turn was inspired by artist Kenneth Anger’s books; Hollywood Babylon 1 and 2 in which the writer records the debauchery of 1920′s Hollywood actors. This reviewer is particularly enamored with the art deco inspired print adorning the S/S 2011 collection, oh to join the easy revelry of this imagined film set created by Cooperative Designs!

Photographs by Amy Gwatkin

Categories ,Alex Cunningham, ,Amy Gwatkin, ,Art Deco, ,Bollywood, ,Bright Young Things, ,Cooperative Designs, ,David White, ,Flip Flop, ,Kenneth Anger, ,lfw, ,piano, ,S/S 2011, ,SS11, ,the groucho club, ,Vile Bodies

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Jasper Conran

Like most girly girls growing up, page shop my bedroom was decorated with various shades of baby pink and faerie-inspired memorabilia. I had faerie bedspreads, no rx no rx faerie lampshades, approved faerie candles, faerie wind chimes (no, really) – I had no idea of the concept of taking things too far. If there was an image of one of those illuminated delicate, dainty little figures slapped onto anything (including mugs and toilet rolls) it had to be mine.

Although I have since grown out of my faerie-loving phase (and into other crazy obsessions my good friends will tell you!), the child in me still gravitates towards stories about magical other worldly beings, the innocence of youth, and pretty much anything that takes me back to my childhood. It is for this reason that when I was asked to do a feature on Jessica Albarn’s first storybook, The Boy in the Oak, it was with a resounding ‘yes’ that I answered. However, it turns out that these faeries aren’t the good ones that I used to wrap around me to protect me as I slept.

Written and illustrated by Jessica, the artist tells the fantastical story of a young lonely boy who amuses himself by trampling on flowers, tearing the limbs off trees, and traumatising the creatures in the garden of his family home. His play becomes increasingly cruel until one day, the faeries that inhabit a giant oak tree, which is also the passageway to the Kingdom of Faerie, at the bottom of his garden take their revenge and trap him in the magical oak.

The narrative is accompanied by fine, detailed sketches of spindly creatures, faeries and facial expressions (the faces of the two protagonists in her story are based on her son Rudy and daughter Lola). Insects are introduced throughout the text and appear on most pages of the book, which Jessica weaves into the fabric of her story, somehow managing to make them appear more beautiful than creepy, through her gentle artistic strokes. The result is a dreamy, melancholic and rather sinister yet magical tale for adults and children alike.

On the eve of the launch of her first storybook ever, Amelia’s Magazine finds a few quiet moments to talk to the very talented artist (who also happens to be Damon Albarn’s sister) about her artistic influences, her rural upbringing, her alter ego faerie tale character and her biggest career challenge to date…

When did you first decide that you wanted to become an artist?I have always loved drawing but I guess I decided that I wanted to be an artist when I was about 15 yrs old.

How has your style evolved since you first started?
When I began my degree I was part of the sculpture department but I found I was happiest when I was drawing (although that could have been down to the fact that my sculptures had a tendency to fall over whenever my tutor drew near!). By the end of college, I had started drawing from nature and studying its relationship with geometry. It has developed a lot since then but I guess the seeds of that thought were sown then.

What/who has influenced your style?
Probably the most influential thing for me was the ‘Butterfly Ball’ by Alan Alderidge. It was a book I had as a child and of which I have revisited hundreds of times. I was fascinated by the detail, the personalities that Alderidge gave his characters and the dark sinister undertones.

What inspired The Boy in the Oak?
A good friend of mine has a tree in her garden that has a ghostly face in the bark. Her garden backs onto a wood and it reminded me of a place I used to visit as young child. A perfect setting for a faerie tale!

Is there a metaphor that older readers should relate to in The Boy in the Oak?
It’s about tuning into the magic in our daydreams, seeing through the veil of reality and escaping the prison of our minds.

How long did it take you to produce the illustrations and story for this book?
There were gaps along the way but it’s taken about four years from the birth of the idea to fruition.

Most of your work has a childhood theme – what was your childhood like and what were you like as a child?
I was born in London, but my parents moved out to North Essex when I was about 6. My parents are both artistic: my Dad ran the Colchester Arts school and my Mum had a studio at home. She also had a shop where she sold arts and crafts. We lived in a very old tudor house in a close-knit village. Most of my childhood was spent running around the countryside, making dens in woods and playing down by the river with my friends. I had lots and lots of guinea pigs, a rabbit and a cat. Also my Mum had a friend who had some ponies. It was all very ramshackle, but my Mum taught me and a lot of the village kids to ride. It was far away from pony club, hairnets and horse boxes, which was a good thing. I was a very happy child. My brother and I had a lot of freedom.

What is your favourite children’s fairy tale and why?
I loved all fairy tales like The Brothers Grimm, Hans Christian Andersen and the illustrations and stories in Russian Fairytales and folklore. But my favourite today still is the ‘The Happy Prince’ – by Oscar Wilde for its beautiful portrayal of love and kindness.

If you could be any fairy tale character, who would you be and why?
I would be the little girl in Baba Yaga, beating the witch and escaping adversity.

What has been the biggest career challenge you have faced to date?
Doing a three day live drawing performance for Helmut Lang in Tokyo. It was just a big deal for someone like me who is very private in their practice to be watched drawing!

What has been your proudest achievement to date?
Succeeding in getting my book published.

What three pieces of advice would you offer someone who is starting out as an illustrator/artist?
I don’t really see myself as an illustrator and haven’t worked as one apart from illustrating my book but as an artist I would say do what pleases you and don’t worry about what other people may think, work very, very hard and don’t give up if it makes you happy!

Jessica Albarn’s book ‘The Boy in the Oak’ is now available in bookstores worldwide.

(All images courtesy of Jessica Albarn)

Like most girly girls growing up, buy my bedroom was decorated with various shades of baby pink and faerie-inspired memorabilia. I had faerie bedspreads, faerie lampshades, faerie candles, faerie wind chimes (no, really) – I had no idea of the concept of taking things too far. If there was an image of one of those illuminated delicate, dainty little figures slapped onto anything (including mugs and toilet rolls), it had to be mine.

Although I have since grown out of my faerie-loving phase (and into other crazy obsessions my good friends will tell you!), the child in me still gravitates towards stories about magical otherworldly beings, the innocence of youth, and pretty much anything that takes me back to my childhood. It is for this reason that when I was asked to do a feature on Jessica Albarn’s storybook, The Boy in the Oak, it was with a resounding ‘yes’ that I answered. However, it turns out that the faeries I would be writing about aren’t the good ones that I used to wrap around me to protect me as I slept.

Written and illustrated by Jessica, the artist tells the fantastical story of a young lonely boy who amuses himself by trampling on flowers, tearing the limbs off trees, and traumatising the creatures in the garden of his family home. As his play becomes increasingly cruel until one day, the faeries that inhabit a giant oak tree, which is also the passageway to the Kingdom of Faerie, at the bottom of his garden cast a spell and trap him in the magical oak.

The narrative is accompanied by fine, detailed sketches of spindly creatures, faeries and emotive facial expressions (the faces of the two protagonists in her story are based on her son Rudy and daughter Lola). Insects are introduced throughout the text and appear on most pages of the book, which Jessica weaves into the fabric of her story, somehow managing to make them appear more beautiful than creepy, through her gentle artistic strokes. The result is a dreamy, melancholic and rather sinister yet magical tale for adults and children alike.

On the eve of the launch of her first storybook ever, Amelia’s Magazine finds a few quiet moments to talk to the very talented artist (who also happens to be Damon Albarn’s sister) about her artistic influences, her rural upbringing, her alter ego faerie tale character and her biggest career challenge to date…

When did you first decide that you wanted to become an artist?
I have always loved drawing but I guess I decided that I wanted to be an artist when I was about 15 yrs old.

How has your style evolved since you first started?
When I began my degree I was part of the sculpture department but I found I was happiest when I was drawing (although that could have been down to the fact that my sculptures had a tendency to fall over whenever my tutor drew near!). By the end of college, I had started drawing from nature and studying its relationship with geometry. It has developed a lot since then but I guess the seeds of that thought were sown then.

What/who has influenced your style?
Probably the most influential thing for me was the ‘Butterfly Ball’ by Alan Alderidge. It was a book I had as a child and of which I have revisited hundreds of times. I was fascinated by the detail, the personalities that Alderidge gave his characters and the dark sinister undertones.

What inspired The Boy in the Oak?
A good friend of mine has a tree in her garden that has a ghostly face in the bark. Her garden backs onto a wood and it reminded me of a place I used to visit as young child. A perfect setting for a faerie tale!

Is there a metaphor that older readers should relate to in The Boy in the Oak?
It’s about tuning into the magic in our daydreams, seeing through the veil of reality and escaping the prison of our minds.

How long did it take you to produce the illustrations and story for this book?
There were gaps along the way but it’s taken about four years from the birth of the idea to fruition.

Most of your work has a childhood theme – what was your childhood like and what were you like as a child?
I was born in London, but my parents moved out to North Essex when I was about 6. My parents are both artistic: my Dad ran the Colchester Arts school and my Mum had a studio at home. She also had a shop where she sold arts and crafts. We lived in a very old tudor house in a close-knit village. Most of my childhood was spent running around the countryside, making dens in woods and playing down by the river with my friends. I had lots and lots of guinea pigs, a rabbit and a cat. Also my Mum had a friend who had some ponies. It was all very ramshackle, but my Mum taught me and a lot of the village kids to ride. It was far away from pony club, hairnets and horse boxes, which was a good thing. I was a very happy child. My brother and I had a lot of freedom.

What is your favourite children’s fairy tale and why?
I loved all fairy tales like The Brothers Grimm, Hans Christian Andersen and the illustrations and stories in Russian Fairytales and folklore. But my favourite today still is the ‘The Happy Prince’ – by Oscar Wilde for its beautiful portrayal of love and kindness.

If you could be any fairy tale character, who would you be and why?
I would be the little girl in Baba Yaga, beating the witch and escaping adversity.

What has been the biggest career challenge you have faced to date?
Doing a three day live drawing performance for Helmut Lang in Tokyo. It was just a big deal for someone like me who is very private in their practice to be watched drawing!

What has been your proudest achievement to date?
Succeeding in getting my book published.

What three pieces of advice would you offer someone who is starting out as an illustrator/artist?
I don’t really see myself as an illustrator and haven’t worked as one apart from illustrating my book but as an artist I would say do what pleases you and don’t worry about what other people may think, work very, very hard and don’t give up if it makes you happy!

Jessica Albarn’s book ‘The Boy in the Oak’ is now available in bookstores worldwide.

(All images courtesy of Jessica Albarn)

Like most girly girls growing up, search my bedroom was decorated with various shades of baby pink and faerie-inspired memorabilia (I say most, but the latter could have just been me). I had faerie bedspreads, faerie lampshades, faerie candles, faerie wind chimes (no, really) – I had no idea of the concept of taking things too far. If there was an image of one of those illuminated delicate, dainty little figures slapped onto anything (including mugs and toilet rolls), it had to be mine.

Although I have since grown out of my faerie-loving phase (and into other crazy obsessions my good friends will tell you!), the child in me still gravitates towards stories about magical otherworldly beings, the innocence of youth, and pretty much anything that takes me back to my childhood. It is for this reason that when I was asked to do a feature on Jessica Albarn’s storybook, The Boy in the Oak, it was with a resounding ‘yes’ that I answered. However, it turns out that the faeries I would be writing about aren’t the good ones that I used to wrap around me to protect me as I slept.

Written and illustrated by Jessica, the artist tells the fantastical story of a young lonely boy who amuses himself by trampling on flowers, tearing the limbs off trees, and traumatising the creatures in the garden of his family home. As his play grows more cruel day by day, the faeries that inhabit a giant oak tree, which is also the passageway to the Kingdom of Faerie, at the bottom of his garden become increasingly unsettled until eventually, they cast a spell on him, trapping the boy in the magical oak.

The narrative is accompanied by fine, detailed sketches of spindly creatures, faeries and emotive facial expressions (the faces of the two protagonists in her story are based on her son Rudy and daughter Lola). Insects are introduced throughout the text and appear on most pages of the book, which Jessica weaves into the fabric of her story, somehow managing to make them appear more beautiful than creepy, through her gentle artistic strokes. The result is a dreamy, melancholic and rather sinister yet magical tale for adults and children alike.

On the eve of the launch of her first storybook ever, Amelia’s Magazine finds a quiet moment to talk to the very talented artist (who also happens to be Damon Albarn’s sister) about her artistic influences, her rural upbringing, her alter ego faerie tale character and her biggest career challenge to date…

When did you first decide that you wanted to become an artist?
I have always loved drawing but I guess I decided that I wanted to be an artist when I was about 15 yrs old.

How has your style evolved since you first started?
When I began my degree I was part of the sculpture department but I found I was happiest when I was drawing (although that could have been down to the fact that my sculptures had a tendency to fall over whenever my tutor drew near!). By the end of college, I had started drawing from nature and studying its relationship with geometry. It has developed a lot since then but I guess the seeds of that thought were sown then.

What/who has influenced your style?
Probably the most influential thing for me was the ‘Butterfly Ball’ by Alan Alderidge. It was a book I had as a child and of which I have revisited hundreds of times. I was fascinated by the detail, the personalities that Alderidge gave his characters and the dark sinister undertones.

What inspired The Boy in the Oak?
A good friend of mine has a tree in her garden that has a ghostly face in the bark. Her garden backs onto a wood and it reminded me of a place I used to visit as young child. A perfect setting for a faerie tale!

Is there a metaphor that older readers should relate to in The Boy in the Oak?
It’s about tuning into the magic in our daydreams, seeing through the veil of reality and escaping the prison of our minds.

How long did it take you to produce the illustrations and story for this book?
There were gaps along the way but it’s taken about four years from the birth of the idea to fruition.

Most of your work has a childhood theme – what was your childhood like and what were you like as a child?
I was born in London, but my parents moved out to North Essex when I was about 6. My parents are both artistic: my Dad ran the Colchester Arts school and my Mum had a studio at home. She also had a shop where she sold arts and crafts. We lived in a very old tudor house in a close-knit village. Most of my childhood was spent running around the countryside, making dens in woods and playing down by the river with my friends. I had lots and lots of guinea pigs, a rabbit and a cat. Also my Mum had a friend who had some ponies. It was all very ramshackle, but my Mum taught me and a lot of the village kids to ride. It was far away from pony club, hairnets and horse boxes, which was a good thing. I was a very happy child. My brother and I had a lot of freedom.

What is your favourite children’s fairy tale and why?
I loved all fairy tales like The Brothers Grimm, Hans Christian Andersen and the illustrations and stories in Russian Fairytales and folklore. But my favourite today still is the ‘The Happy Prince’ – by Oscar Wilde for its beautiful portrayal of love and kindness.

If you could be any fairy tale character, who would you be and why?
I would be the little girl in Baba Yaga, beating the witch and escaping adversity.

What has been the biggest career challenge you have faced to date?
Doing a three day live drawing performance for Helmut Lang in Tokyo. It was just a big deal for someone like me who is very private in their practice to be watched drawing!

What has been your proudest achievement to date?
Succeeding in getting my book published.

What three pieces of advice would you offer someone who is starting out as an illustrator/artist?
I don’t really see myself as an illustrator and haven’t worked as one apart from illustrating my book but as an artist I would say do what pleases you and don’t worry about what other people may think, work very, very hard and don’t give up if it makes you happy!

Jessica Albarn’s book ‘The Boy in the Oak’ is now available in bookstores worldwide.

(All images courtesy of Jessica Albarn)

Illustration by Stéphanie Thieullent

I love the Portico Rooms at Somerset House. Up an elaborate sweeping staircase, ask here lies a relatively small room in which I’ve seen some of my favourite presentations: Lou Dalton’s salon show a year ago, cialis 40mg both this and last season’s Orla Kiely presentations, and now Craig Lawrence’s presentation this weekend.

Presentations are my preferred preference to catwalk shows. You don’t have to fight for a seat, you can see the clothing and craftsmanship in close-up (particularly applicable with Craig’s astonishing knitwear) and, most importantly, they always have cakes.

This was no exception – just look at this table packed with the stuff. Delicious! Shame I decided on a cream-filled whoopie rather than something edible in front of fashion folk like a delicious slice of tiffin. Cue cream-covered chops, sloppy eating and and a general unfashionable mess. Ah, well.

Craig’s presentation was simple but oh so elegant. Three models perched around sculptural furniture wearing his latest offerings. I wonder how the pay-scale for models differs between catwalks and presentations? Surely sashaying to the end of a runway, striking a pose and then walking back is far easier than having people with zoom lenses oggle your pores and walk in circles around you? It’s a wonder they don’t fall over. They are good at looking into your camera though. Look at this one! She wurrrrks it. Give her a pay rise!

Craig Lawrence has quickly established himself as a man of exquisite craftsmanship, skill and style. I simply adore these floor length knitted numbers. Seeing them up close, you really develop an appreciation for the quality. I imagine that the wool he uses is of a high calibre, but staring closely at his pieces is quite something – hypnotic weaves create beautiful, rich textures.


Illustration by Stéphanie Thieullent

The colours were industrial and pewter was the mainstay, with the occasion flourish of varying greens and white. This all white number rustled as the model moved around the room, and it’s only when you see garments like this move that you realise their full potential. She does look a bit like she’s been through a paper shredder, though. God I hope she hadn’t.

Also on display was a strikingly beautiful and somewhat haunting film, which was actually all I thought I was going to see – the static models were a massive bonus. The black and white film was shot by Ben Toms and styled by Dazed & Confused’s Katie Shillingford. Bloody hard to photograph.

At first glance, it appeared to be a collection of photographs – a model stands stock still in a variety of poses on rocks and in the sea. It’s only when you watch for a little while you realise it is actually a film – you notice the hair flickering slightly from the wind, or the almost still waves of the ocean moving back and forth. It really brought the collection to life. Plus it was edited beautifully – by our own Sally Mumby Croft, no less!

You can see the film (and I suggest you do) here.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

It’s hard to know what to say about Jasper. I certainly wasn’t expecting the earth to move, ask but it’s always nice to come out of a fashion show pleasantly surprised as I did after Paul Costelloe’s extremely strong opener to London Fashion Week.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Perhaps Jasper needs to take a leaf out of Paul’s book – it seems that clothes your mum would be comfortable in at a wedding are no longer in, viagra dosage even with the more conservative crowd. And what was with the uncomfortable cheesy grins and hideous wide-brimmed netting hats? The styling and choice of models only served to emphasise the Debenhams factor, and I’m sorry but if I wanted high street on a catwalk I’d hot foot it down to Lakeside shopping centre.

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

However, all of this aside, much of the clothing was very sweet and (of course) I couldn’t fault its wearability. Straight up and down monochrome quickly gave way to the most citrus of hues in pleated swing skirts and dresses. The signature print – a painterly 40s inspired beach scene – was featured on the invite and on only one little sundress.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Jasper Conran can clearly cut a great garment, so it’s just a shame he doesn’t push the boat out a bit more for London Fashion Week. Here’s hoping for more next time around.

Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Anna Hancock-Young, ,BFC Tent, ,Jasper Conran, ,Lea Wade, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Presentation Review: Lu Flux (reprise)

LFW Holly Fulton by KAYLEIGH BLUCK
Holly Fulton by Kayleigh Bluck.

For S/S 2011 Holly Fulton took inspiration from Joan Collins and 60s cruise wear as her “ladies” went on a fantastical tour of luxury living in all the most chic resorts: Monaco, nurse Egypt, Brazil, Hollywood. If this woman exists in reality she would surely be the most shallow creature on the planet, but such is the way of fashion: it thrives on escapism.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

holly fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
holly fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
Holly Fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén.

This was the first Holly Fulton catwalk show I’ve attended, and being a fan I was intrigued to see how her aesthetic has held up in a year when her influence on the high street has been massive – particularly where large jewellery is concerned.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy.

The show started strongly with a bright orange cracked paving print blouse atop a tiered fringed pencil skirt before giving way to a look that I would say took as much inspiration from the flared shapes of the 70s as it did the decade before. Yellow skater style flared skirts featured laser cut cocktail patterns. Heels were so high one model was forced to remove hers for the finale.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW Holly Fulton by KAYLEIGH BLUCK
Holly Fulton by Kayleigh Bluck.

Holly is at her strongest when she puts together Aztec, Aboriginal and Memphis School inspired appliques on the front of long panels. Flares, shift dresses and maxi skirts provided ample opportunity for this, accessorised with the usual fabulous necklaces and decorated clutch bags. They were accompanied by suitably luxe big earrings and big hair.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

The collection only started to falter once towards the end, when Holly sent a few dresses down the runway that seemed obviously tacked on to appease sponsors Swarovski. Goodness knows why she decided to finish on these less polished numbers, instead of interspersing them through the whole show.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy.

Like David Koma before her Holly used python, this time in its natural colouring as part of heavily textured patterning so that it was less obvious from afar. Maybe a luxury feel demands some kind of obvious domination over the rest of the world, but I’m not sure I like this new trend towards exotic animal skins. Other than his blip she remains an innovative and individual designer who’s very definitely one step ahead of her imitators.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

LFW Holly Fulton by KAYLEIGH BLUCK
Holly Fulton by Kayleigh Bluck.

For S/S 2011 Holly Fulton took inspiration from Joan Collins and 60s cruise wear as her “ladies” went on a fantastical tour of luxury living in all the most chic resorts: Monaco, and Egypt, Brazil, Hollywood. If this woman exists in reality she would surely be the most shallow creature on the planet, but such is the way of fashion: it thrives on escapism.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

holly fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
holly fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
Holly Fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén.

This was the first Holly Fulton catwalk show I’ve attended, and being a fan I was intrigued to see how her aesthetic has held up in a year when her influence on the high street has been massive – particularly where large jewellery is concerned.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy.

The show started strongly with a bright orange cracked paving print blouse atop a tiered fringed pencil skirt before giving way to a look that I would say took as much inspiration from the flared shapes of the 70s as it did the decade before. Yellow skater style flared skirts featured laser cut cocktail patterns. Heels were so high one model was forced to remove hers for the finale.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW Holly Fulton by KAYLEIGH BLUCK
Holly Fulton by Kayleigh Bluck.

Holly is at her strongest when she puts together Aztec, Aboriginal and Memphis School inspired appliques on the front of long panels. Flares, shift dresses and maxi skirts provided ample opportunity for this, accessorised with the usual fabulous necklaces and decorated clutch bags. They were accompanied by suitably luxe big earrings and big hair.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

The collection only started to falter once towards the end, when Holly sent a few dresses down the runway that seemed obviously tacked on to appease sponsors Swarovski. Goodness knows why she decided to finish on these less polished numbers, instead of interspersing them through the whole show.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy.

Like David Koma before her Holly used python, this time in its natural colouring as part of heavily textured patterning so that it was less obvious from afar. Maybe a luxury feel demands some kind of obvious domination over the rest of the world, but I’m not sure I like this new trend towards exotic animal skins. Other than his blip she remains an innovative and individual designer who’s very definitely one step ahead of her imitators.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

LFW Holly Fulton by KAYLEIGH BLUCK
Holly Fulton by Kayleigh Bluck.

For S/S 2011 Holly Fulton took inspiration from Joan Collins and 60s cruise wear as her “ladies” went on a fantastical tour of luxury living in all the most chic resorts: Monaco, troche Egypt, more about Brazil, Hollywood. If this woman exists in reality she would surely be the most shallow creature on the planet, but such is the way of fashion: it thrives on escapism.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

holly fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
holly fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
Holly Fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén.

This was the first Holly Fulton catwalk show I’ve attended, and being a fan I was intrigued to see how her aesthetic has held up in a year when her influence on the high street has been massive – particularly where large jewellery is concerned.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy.

The show started strongly with a bright orange cracked paving print blouse atop a tiered fringed pencil skirt before giving way to a look that I would say took as much inspiration from the flared shapes of the 70s as it did the decade before. Yellow skater style flared skirts featured laser cut cocktail patterns. Heels were so high one model was forced to remove hers for the finale.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW Holly Fulton by KAYLEIGH BLUCK
Holly Fulton by Kayleigh Bluck.

Holly is at her strongest when she puts together Aztec, Aboriginal and Memphis School inspired appliques on the front of long panels. Flares, shift dresses and maxi skirts provided ample opportunity for this, accessorised with the usual fabulous necklaces and decorated clutch bags. They were accompanied by suitably luxe big earrings and big hair.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

The collection only started to falter once towards the end, when Holly sent a few dresses down the runway that seemed obviously tacked on to appease sponsors Swarovski. Goodness knows why she decided to finish on these less polished numbers, instead of interspersing them through the whole show.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy
Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy.

Like David Koma before her Holly used python, this time in its natural colouring as part of heavily textured patterning so that it was less obvious from afar. Maybe a luxury feel demands some kind of obvious domination over the rest of the world, but I’m not sure I like this new trend towards exotic animal skins (see my David Koma blog for more on this). Other than his blip she remains an innovative and individual designer who’s very definitely one step ahead of her imitators.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory


Illustration by Gemma Randall

I was so excited to see what progressive knitwear label Sibling would produce this season, sildenafil after featuring the brand in our menswear preview, sick that I legged it up the stairs to The Portico Rooms at Somerset House, almost tripping at the top. Such is the effect of scrambling around Somerset House to see labels that you love.

Luckily I escaped any kind of fall or serious injury. Inside the room, a large crowd had all ready formed to see what was on offer from Collection 5. Yet again Sibling had produced a quirky range of witty knits: a selection of sweaters with influences such as punk, Pop Art, and, erm, Tourettes?

Each piece offers a statement to the wearer. Large-scale polka dot patterns featured heavily in this collection, while Pop Art-esque stars appear in different scales. Static mannequins bore eery face masks, which featured a range of expletives. The highlight with Sibling is always the vibrancy of the colours – neon greens last season had this season been replaced with red and shades of blue.


Illustration by Gemma Randall

The show pieces, away from these inspired jazzy numbers, were a collaboration with zany artists Sue Noble and Tim Webster. Black jersey tracksuits had been embroidered with reflective tape to feature such profanities as ‘WANKER’ ‘SOD OFF’, C U Next Tuesday and, my personal favourite, ‘TAKE MY TITS.’ Oh, here we go again, I thought to myself…

Alongside the collection, a film by Alasdair McLellan and styled by Max Pearmain played on loop. This oozed style and featured a scallyish skinhead smoking, larking in the park and generally knocking around insalubrious areas. It was one of the best fashion films I caught this season, by far. Reminiscent of scenes from This Is England, the film was more punk than Pop Art, but it was a delight to watch. Enjoy:

SIBLING C5 film by ALASDAIR McLELLAN from SIBLING LONDON on Vimeo.

Knitwear for men can be quite elitist, with editors salivating over crew neck numbers that lack imagination. But if you’re after something with a little more punch, there ain’t anybody packing it like Sibling.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Illustration by Gemma Randall

I was so excited to see what progressive knitwear label Sibling would produce this season, more about after featuring the brand in our menswear preview, information pills that I legged it up the stairs to The Portico Rooms at Somerset House, view almost tripping at the top. Such is the effect of scrambling around Somerset House to see labels that you love.

Luckily I escaped any kind of fall or serious injury. Inside the room, a large crowd had all ready formed to see what was on offer from Collection 5. Yet again Sibling had produced a quirky range of witty knits: a selection of sweaters with influences such as punk, Pop Art, and, erm, Tourettes?

Each piece offers a statement to the wearer. Large-scale polka dot patterns featured heavily in this collection, while Pop Art-esque stars appear in different scales. Static mannequins bore eery face masks, which featured a range of expletives. The highlight with Sibling is always the vibrancy of the colours – neon greens last season had this season been replaced with red and shades of blue.


Illustration by Gemma Randall

The show pieces, away from these inspired jazzy numbers, were a collaboration with zany artists Sue Noble and Tim Webster. Black jersey tracksuits had been embroidered with reflective tape to feature such profanities as ‘WANKER’ ‘SOD OFF’, C U Next Tuesday and, my personal favourite, ‘TAKE MY TITS.’ Oh, here we go again, I thought to myself…

Alongside the collection, a film by Alasdair McLellan and styled by Max Pearmain played on loop. This oozed style and featured a scallyish skinhead smoking, larking in the park and generally knocking around insalubrious areas. It was one of the best fashion films I caught this season, by far. Reminiscent of scenes from This Is England, the film was more punk than Pop Art, but it was a delight to watch. Enjoy:

SIBLING C5 film by ALASDAIR McLELLAN from SIBLING LONDON on Vimeo.

Knitwear for men can be quite elitist, with editors salivating over crew neck numbers that lack imagination. But if you’re after something with a little more punch, there ain’t anybody packing it like Sibling.

All photography by Matt Bramford


Illustration by Gemma Randall

I was so excited to see what progressive knitwear label Sibling would produce this season, viagra after featuring the brand in our menswear preview, and that I legged it up the stairs to The Portico Rooms at Somerset House, information pills almost tripping at the top. Such is the effect of scrambling around Somerset House to see labels that you love.

Luckily I escaped any kind of fall or serious injury. Inside the room, a large crowd had all ready formed to see what was on offer from Collection 5. Yet again Sibling had produced a quirky range of witty knits: a selection of sweaters with influences such as punk, Pop Art, and, erm, Tourettes?

Each piece offers a statement to the wearer. Large-scale polka dot patterns featured heavily in this collection, while Pop Art-esque stars appear in different scales. Static mannequins bore eery face masks, which featured a range of expletives. The highlight with Sibling is always the vibrancy of the colours – neon greens last season had this season been replaced with red and shades of blue.


Illustration by Gemma Randall

The show pieces, away from these inspired jazzy numbers, were a collaboration with zany artists Sue Noble and Tim Webster. Black jersey tracksuits had been embroidered with reflective tape to feature such profanities as ‘WANKER’ ‘SOD OFF’, C U Next Tuesday and, my personal favourite, ‘TAKE MY TITS.’ Oh, here we go again, I thought to myself…

Alongside the collection, a film by Alasdair McLellan and styled by Max Pearmain played on loop. This oozed style and featured a scallyish skinhead smoking, larking in the park and generally knocking around insalubrious areas. It was one of the best fashion films I caught this season, by far. Reminiscent of scenes from This Is England, the film was more punk than Pop Art, but it was a delight to watch. Enjoy:

SIBLING C5 film by ALASDAIR McLELLAN from SIBLING LONDON on Vimeo.

Knitwear for men can be quite elitist, with editors salivating over crew neck numbers that lack imagination. But if you’re after something with a little more punch, there ain’t anybody packing it like Sibling.

All photography by Matt Bramford


Illustration by Gemma Randall

I was so excited to see what progressive knitwear label Sibling would produce this season, information pills after featuring the brand in our menswear preview, that I legged it up the stairs to the Portico Rooms, almost tripping at the top. Such is the effect of scrambling around Somerset House to see labels that you love.

Luckily I escaped any kind of fall or serious injury. Inside the room, a large crowd had all ready formed to see what was on offer from Collection 5. Yet again Sibling had produced a quirky range of witty knits: a selection of sweaters with influences such as punk, Pop Art, and, erm, Tourettes?

Each piece offers a statement to the wearer. Large-scale polka dot patterns featured heavily in this collection, while Pop Art-esque stars appear in different scales. Static mannequins bore eery face masks, which featured a range of expletives. The highlight with Sibling is always the vibrancy of the colours – neon greens last season had this season been replaced with red and shades of blue.


Illustration by Gemma Randall

The show pieces, away from these inspired jazzy numbers, were a collaboration with zany artists Tim Noble and Sue Webster. Black jersey tracksuits had been embroidered with reflective tape to feature such profanities as ‘WANKER’ ‘SOD OFF’, C U Next Tuesday and, my personal favourite, ‘TAKE MY TITS.’ Oh, here we go again, I thought to myself…

Alongside the collection, a film by Alasdair McLellan and styled by Max Pearmain played on loop. This oozed style and featured a scallyish skinhead smoking, larking in the park and generally knocking around insalubrious areas. It was one of the best fashion films I caught this season, by far. Reminiscent of scenes from This Is England, the film was more punk than Pop Art, but it was a delight to watch. Enjoy:

SIBLING C5 film by ALASDAIR McLELLAN from SIBLING LONDON on Vimeo.

Knitwear for men can be quite elitist, with editors salivating over crew neck numbers that lack imagination. But if you’re after something with a little more punch, there ain’t anybody packing it like Sibling.

All photography by Matt Bramford

For those of us looking for clothes we could really see our butts in next spring, pharm Elliott J Frieze hit the spot. Everything was accessible. Everything was wearable. Minus the blue lipstick.

Looking at the catwalk, I saw city-worker-attends-summer-garden-party. It was all laid-back utility workwear with trench coats, jumpsuits and easy dresses. Luxe-fabric and sexy tailoring were what then brought the elegance and bold femininity to the overall look.

It was a soft attempt to celebrate all that is quintessentially British – tailoring, textiles and all. However, I think a little more Vivienne Westwood Anglo-Oomph would have pulled it all together perfectly. Delicate gingham was used as well as duchess satins and a lot of cotton. But a little more tweed or tartan wouldn’t have gone amiss.

The male models (bless them) were also assigned the blue and white sparkling lipstick. Their wardrobe consisted of quirky, structured waistcoats and embroidered jackets. Everything was tailored well but a care-free feel ran strongly throughout. The clothes were, in a word, fun.

Then, in amongst the funky French house music (which I LOVED) and strange-lipstick action, something very random happened. The lights went down and ‘ooh lala’ beats faded to Doris Day echoing ‘When I Fall in Love’. Her sweet voice silenced the audience until a mysterious lady in head-to-toe satin appeared and sauntered, VERY slowly, up and down the catwalk. Turned out that this strange saunter was none other than actress Anna Popplewell, muse and friend to Frieze. Her smiling blue lips (yes, she too was victimised) appeared for a second time when Frieze stepped onto the catwalk holding her hand to receiving his endless applause. The audience’s reaction was pretty lively. To the point that an excitable man in camel chased Frieze & muse up the catwalk to get a close-up photo.  Now that’s dedication.

I imagine they’d have needed numerous crates of hairspray to prep the models for this show – hair was big. Very big. The towering quiffs and pulled-back tumbling curls added sixties glam and style to a traditional English foundation.

Half of the front row at Elliott J Frieze were occupied by friends and family – a pain to all fashionistas (who were lusting after those front row goodie bags) but, ultimately, a testament to this designer staying true to his roots and his British heritage (with added glamfactor).

I think I could take quite a bit from Frieze for my spring/summer 2011 wardrobe. Powder blues and yellows – definitely. Gingham  – maybe a little. I think I would even try out that ultra-huge hair. But I will never, I repeat, NEVER wear blue lipstick. I think I’ll leave that particular Elliott J Frieze look.

All photography by Jemma Crow

For those of us looking for clothes we could really see our butts in next spring, viagra Elliott J Frieze hit the spot. Everything was accessible. Everything was wearable. Minus the blue lipstick.

Looking at the catwalk, more about I saw city-worker-attends-summer-garden-party. It was all laid-back utility workwear with trench coats, jumpsuits and easy dresses. Luxe-fabric and sexy tailoring were what then brought the elegance and bold femininity to the overall look.

It was a soft attempt to celebrate all that is quintessentially British – tailoring, textiles and all. However, I think a little more Vivienne Westwood Anglo-Oomph would have pulled it all together perfectly. Delicate gingham was used as well as duchess satins and a lot of cotton. But a little more tweed or tartan wouldn’t have gone amiss.

The male models (bless them) were also assigned the blue and white sparkling lipstick. Their wardrobe consisted of quirky, structured waistcoats and embroidered jackets. Everything was tailored well but a care-free feel ran strongly throughout. The clothes were, in a word, fun.

Then, in amongst the funky French house music (which I LOVED) and strange-lipstick action, something very random happened. The lights went down and ‘ooh lala’ beats faded to Doris Day echoing ‘When I Fall in Love’. Her sweet voice silenced the audience until a mysterious lady in head-to-toe satin appeared and sauntered, VERY slowly, up and down the catwalk. Turned out that this strange saunter was none other than actress Anna Popplewell, muse and friend to Frieze. Her smiling blue lips (yes, she too was victimised) appeared for a second time when Frieze stepped onto the catwalk holding her hand to receiving his endless applause. The audience’s reaction was pretty lively. To the point that an excitable man in camel chased Frieze & muse up the catwalk to get a close-up photo.  Now that’s dedication.

I imagine they’d have needed numerous crates of hairspray to prep the models for this show – hair was big. Very big. The towering quiffs and pulled-back tumbling curls added sixties glam and style to a traditional English foundation.

Half of the front row at Elliott J Frieze were occupied by friends and family – a pain to all fashionistas (who were lusting after those front row goodie bags) but, ultimately, a testament to this designer staying true to his roots and his British heritage (with added glamfactor).

I think I could take quite a bit from Frieze for my spring/summer 2011 wardrobe. Powder blues and yellows – definitely. Gingham  – maybe a little. I think I would even try out that ultra-huge hair. But I will never, I repeat, NEVER wear blue lipstick. I think I’ll leave that particular Elliott J Frieze look.

All photography by Jemma Crow

For those of us looking for clothes we could really see our butts in next spring, sildenafil Elliott J Frieze hit the spot. Everything was accessible. Everything was wearable. Minus the blue lipstick.

Looking at the catwalk, price I saw city-worker-attends-summer-garden-party. It was all laid-back utility workwear with trench coats, jumpsuits and easy dresses. Luxe-fabric and sexy tailoring were what then brought the elegance and bold femininity to the overall look.

It was a soft attempt to celebrate all that is quintessentially British – tailoring, textiles and all. However, I think a little more Vivienne Westwood Anglo-Oomph would have pulled it all together perfectly. Delicate gingham was used as well as duchess satins and a lot of cotton. But a little more tweed or tartan wouldn’t have gone amiss.

The male models (bless them) were also assigned the blue and white sparkling lipstick. Their wardrobe consisted of quirky, structured waistcoats and embroidered jackets. Everything was tailored well but a care-free feel ran strongly throughout. The clothes were, in a word, fun.

Then, in amongst the funky French house music (which I LOVED) and strange-lipstick action, something very random happened. The lights went down and ‘ooh lala’ beats faded to Doris Day echoing ‘When I Fall in Love’. Her sweet voice silenced the audience until a mysterious lady in head-to-toe satin appeared and sauntered, VERY slowly, up and down the catwalk. Turned out that this strange saunter was none other than actress Anna Popplewell, muse and friend to Frieze. Her smiling blue lips (yes, she too was victimised) appeared for a second time when Frieze stepped onto the catwalk holding her hand to receiving his endless applause. The audience’s reaction was pretty lively. To the point that an excitable man in camel chased Frieze & muse up the catwalk to get a close-up photo.  Now that’s dedication.

I imagine they’d have needed numerous crates of hairspray to prep the models for this show – hair was big. Very big. The towering quiffs and pulled-back tumbling curls added sixties glam and style to a traditional English foundation.

Half of the front row at Elliott J Frieze were occupied by friends and family – a pain to all fashionistas (who were lusting after those front row goodie bags) but, ultimately, a testament to this designer staying true to his roots and his British heritage (with added glamfactor).

I think I could take quite a bit from Frieze for my spring/summer 2011 wardrobe. Powder blues and yellows – definitely. Gingham  – maybe a little. I think I would even try out that ultra-huge hair. But I will never, I repeat, NEVER wear blue lipstick. I think I’ll leave that particular Elliott J Frieze look.

All photography by Jemma Crow

For those of us looking for clothes we could really see our butts in next spring, nurse Elliott J Frieze hit the spot. Everything was accessible. Everything was wearable. Minus the blue lipstick.

Looking at the catwalk, website like this I saw city-worker-attends-summer-garden-party. It was all laid-back utility workwear with trench coats, jumpsuits and easy dresses. Luxe-fabric and sexy tailoring were what then brought the elegance and bold femininity to the overall look.

It was a soft attempt to celebrate all that is quintessentially British – tailoring, textiles and all. However, I think a little more Vivienne Westwood Anglo-Oomph would have pulled it all together perfectly. Delicate gingham was used as well as duchess satins and a lot of cotton. But a little more tweed or tartan wouldn’t have gone amiss.

The male models (bless them) were also assigned the blue and white sparkling lipstick. Their wardrobe consisted of quirky, structured waistcoats and embroidered jackets. Everything was tailored well but a care-free feel ran strongly throughout. The clothes were, in a word, fun.

Then, in amongst the funky French house music (which I LOVED) and strange-lipstick action, something very random happened. The lights went down and ‘ooh lala’ beats faded to Doris Day echoing ‘When I Fall in Love’. Her sweet voice silenced the audience until a mysterious lady in head-to-toe satin appeared and sauntered, VERY slowly, up and down the catwalk. Turned out that this strange saunter was none other than actress Anna Popplewell, muse and friend to Frieze. Her smiling blue lips (yes, she too was victimised) appeared for a second time when Frieze stepped onto the catwalk holding her hand to receiving his endless applause. The audience’s reaction was pretty lively. To the point that an excitable man in camel chased Frieze & muse up the catwalk to get a close-up photo.  Now that’s dedication.

I imagine they’d have needed numerous crates of hairspray to prep the models for this show – hair was big. Very big. The towering quiffs and pulled-back tumbling curls added sixties glam and style to a traditional English foundation.

Half of the front row at Elliott J Frieze were occupied by friends and family – a pain to all fashionistas (who were lusting after those front row goodie bags) but, ultimately, a testament to this designer staying true to his roots and his British heritage (with added glamfactor).

I think I could take quite a bit from Frieze for my spring/summer 2011 wardrobe. Powder blues and yellows – definitely. Gingham  – maybe a little. I think I would even try out that ultra-huge hair. But I will never, I repeat, NEVER wear blue lipstick. I think I’ll leave that particular Elliott J Frieze look.

All photography by Jemma Crow

Lu-Flux-by-David-Merta
Lu Flux by David Merta.

The Lu Flux presentation was one that suffered slightly from inexperience. On arrival at an upmarket Soho members’ club on Greek Street we were ushered into the back garden where we were left twiddling our thumbs until the presentation started. Fortunately I didn’t accept the offer of an expensive members’ drink from a loitering waitress, ailment and a short time later we were shown into the darkened arches of the chapel.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

As we walked through the doorway we remained uncertain of what to do until Lu eagerly ushered everyone into the darkened recesses of the church, what is ed tea served in one corner, and delightful miniature home made fairy cakes in another, all served by ladies in last season’s applique lion dress. I’m not usually a fan of cupcakes but hunger persuaded me to try these ones and they were very yummy and nice, made by Yummy Nice in fact.

LFW-LUFLUX-JOCHEUNG Rob Logan
Rob Logan models Lu Flux, by Jo Cheung.

I immediately spotted my friend Rob, who had been asked to model a very fetching outfit of navy polka dot shirt, green trousers, yellow socks and blue shoes and clearly thought he would get away with it unnoticed by pesky mates such as me who are bound to take the piss (just a tiny bit). He should have known better with me loitering around the fashion world.

Lu Flux SS2011 Rob Logan photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Rob Logan photo by Amelia Gregory
Rob chats with some of the other models and takes a look through the charming illustrated look book.

It was a wonderful setting to show a collection but my heart sank almost immediately. No decent lighting. How then to take good photos? Flash simply never looks as nice in a setting such as this. It’s so so important to consider what you want to achieve from a show or presentation, but aside from introducing buyers and press to your collection it must surely be to ensure that fabulous images find their way out into the universe. It’s not that much to hire decent studio lights and they are a massive boon.

Lu Flux photo by Amelia gregory
Lu Flux photo by Amelia gregory

Lu had staged a delightful little scenario, whereby the models were able to move about and take their turn to be drawn by one of the illustrators who has contributed a lovely updated china plate pattern to her latest collection. Lu described how it features not only herself and her boyfriend but also their dog and various other assorted friends – I thought it found a particularly fetching home on a shorts suit for men. As the live sketches were finished they were hung from a clothes line to be admired by the visitors.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory

Lu Flux creations are wonderfully playful without being too childish and I love the way that she makes the most of the smallest of details. This colourful collection featured gorgeous embroidered pockets, origami inspired folds, looped ribbons and one off appliqued shoes done in collaboration with Green Shoes of Devon.

Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux SS2011 Green Shoes photo by Amelia Gregory
Lu Flux in collaboration with Green Shoes.

Lu-Flux-shoes-by-David-Merta
Lu Flux by David Merta.

Despite a few teething problems it’s great to see that a few ethical designers are making a real effort to present their collections in an inspiring way that sets them alongside the bigger names of LFW. For it is only when ethical thinking starts to permeate the more mainstream byways of fashion, as standard practice, that things will really start to change for the better.

Lu Flux SS2011 photo by Amelia gregory
A close up of the china plate pattern.

You can read Sally Mumby-Croft’s review of the same presentation here.

Categories ,cupcakes, ,David Merta, ,Devon, ,ethical, ,Green Shoes, ,Jo Cheung, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lu Flux, ,Rob Logan, ,Soho, ,Yummy Nice

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Mode, Carlotta Actis Barone

Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba.

It was the huge and elaborate headdresses by Rachel Galley that grabbed our immediate attention as the first models traversed the catwalk, visit their steady heads bearing wide concoctions of twirling metal, flowers and swinging tassels for Carlotta Actis Barone‘s S/S 2012 commentary ‘on the stolen liberty and beauty associated with prostitution.’

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Carlotta Actis Barone is one of three designers who are being mentored by Fashion Mode, a mysterious entity that provides direction and support in everything from design to business management and marketing.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas.

The new collection was inspired by a cross pollination of cultural ideas: Victorian brothels and French boudoir style from the turn of the last century contrasted with the high class prostitution and honour traditionally associated with being a Geisha.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 by t. reidy
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by t.reidy.

Swishing lilac and cream dresses with roped detailing around the bust and waist signified the imprisonment of prostitution, whilst loosely draped pencil skirts and lingerie-styled tunics suggested a more playful air of seduction, accessorised with wide patterned kimono inspired waist wraps.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Orchid hair accessories and china doll make-up added to the air of naive idolisation of feminine beauty, but the clash of styles did not always work. Wrinkled tights patterned with stripes of letters (a signature of Barone) were a questionable styling detail and high heeled see through plastic stripper shoes filled with orchids were downright tacky, but overall this was an eye-catching collection from a talented new designer with original ideas. Amongst my favourite pieces were cream big pocketed trench coats with huge flouncy bows on the bum, and vibrant tropical printed silk dresses in green, vermillion and lime.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

The definitely not very shy and retiring Carlotta Actis Barone was wearing one of her printed boudoir wraps when she strode out to take a bow at the end of the catwalk, and – somewhat ironically given the theme of her collection – her bosoms made an excited bid for freedom, much to the amusement of the crowd.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Brothels, ,Carlotta Actis Barone, ,Casey Otremba, ,China Doll, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Mode, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,French Boudoir, ,Geisha, ,Headdresses, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Megan Thomas, ,Orchids, ,prints, ,Prostitution, ,Rachel Galley, ,Stripper Shoes, ,t.reidy, ,Tassels, ,Tina Reidy, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Spijkers en Spijkers

Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

I’d found myself in unfamiliar surroundings for this show, drug over in West London at the Show Space on Grosvenor Place. The queue outside had been pleasantly short, and I was ushered smoothly into the building, with none of the usual cattle herding behaviour experienced at other London Fashion Week shows. The room was grand, with decorative white walls and high ceilings. I read from the press release that the inspiration was the Middle Eastern tale One Thousand and One Nights – a story about a young girl who uses her wits to enchant and win over a King. I wasn’t overly familiar with the Spijkers sister’s work, but had previously read Sally Mumby-Croft’s review of the sisters’ S/S 2011 collection, and was excited at the prospect of some opulent Persian splendour on a Saturday afternoon.

Spijkers en Spijkers photo by Tim Adey
Photography by Tim Adey.

The show was running late, by about 10 minutes, and I got chatting to the girl next to me, an illustrator from Access Fashion, about the rush to get over here from Somerset House from the Ashish show. This down time was ruined by a chirpy PR girl, who perhaps could sense I was slightly hungover, and playing on this vulnerable state, kept asking me and my new illustrator friend to shuffle up and down on the very wobbly bench. She tried joking and laughing, but on the 4th move, with no new people to be seated, it wasn’t amusing anymore, and I scared her off with a look, and a fierce rattle of the bag of popcorn I’d found in my goody bag.

Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams
Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams
All photography by Miranda Williams

The lights finally dimmed, and I was surprised. The first look was an ivory and black star panelled dress with a fringed hem. It was completed with a wide head scarf, which also had the heavy black fringe. This look emanted the style of early 1930′s flappers, not a Persian Queen as I had expected. Nevermind I thought, as the next look pleased – a tapered leg pantsuit with an oversized silk satin blazer, again in ivory and black, which had a sort of Katherine Hepburn feel to it.

Spijkers En Spijkers S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester
Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester

As the looks continued, I understood that the collection was deeply dress focussed, and alot of the intricately panelled dresses looked like sophisticated underwear to me. With an added tease, cheeky hemlines were split right up to the top of the thigh, and the silk twill and satins of the bias cut dresses clung neatly to the models bodies. This was definitely more F. Scott Fitzgerald, but it didn’t matter, I was enchanted by the glamorous flapper girls walking before me. The models were also completely gorgeous – and the romantic styling helped. Their hair was tousled, and they were made up with a slick of lime green eye shadow, glossy bronze cheeks and neutral lips. Perfect.

Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams
Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

One of the first looks that I really liked was a beautiful deep cut satin dress, in cream and ivory. It was made up from diamond shaped panels, and didn’t cling to the body, but held against it, showing chest, but just the right amount. This was also featured with one of the heavily tasselled headscarves, which became a real addition to each outfit. Creatively draped around the models head’s, I did understand some reference to the exotic Middle East with these accessories. Pop colours were also brought in as the palette developed on from the base of black and ivory, with the addition of coral and lime green.

Spijkers en Spijkers photo by Tim Adey

Star panels emblazoned the front and sides of most of the looks, in neutral creams and ivories, but also in black and silver. I much preferred this detail when the star panels were in the muted colours, across some of the simpler silk dresses. As I felt there was a sort of costume effect in some of the looks that had the bright silver stars splashed across the chest. The metal chains on the back of the dresses were a clever and fine detail, acting as both the construction and decoration of each. This reminded me of the costumes of exotic dancers, with gold chains wound around their bodies and limbs, attached to their clothes, and doubling as ornamentation.

Spijkers en Spijkers photo by Tim Adey

Vibrant colours filtered through towards the end of the run – pink, and also a colour that seems to be very on trend for S/S 2012, purple. One of the signature looks was a purple silk satin dress, with thin straps, lime green panels and a pink star on the right side of the chest. Worlds apart from my usual choice of black, and more black, I thought it was simple, super pretty, but importantly, fun. Another detail that the Spijkers sisters used in excess, and which has appeared across other catwalks this year was tassels. They were heavy and stitched onto to the bottom of hems. They added great movement to the dresses, with the addition of one or two splits running up the front legs of dresses, helping the fringing to sway with every pace.

Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

What I felt really worked in the collection were the loose fitting jumpsuits with crinkle silk satin blazers, and simple cut dresses with fewer panels. These were classic shapes that were sleek and sophisticated. I wasn’t so keen on the last couple of looks – which introduced brown linen, in a blazer jacket and a pair of ¾ length trousers. It felt out of place in the collection – was it a last minute addition for another fabric or element? Bit of an odd choice I thought. However, the shoes were great – high platforms with black or metallic star panels that screamed 1970′s glamour!

Although the show had lacked the richness of the Persian fairy tale I had read about, it certainly brought a taste of the compelling and hedonistic 1930’s. Since the labels conception in 2000, the sisters have become known for their use of graphic prints and colours, and they certainly delivered on that level. They have not strayed from their ‘signature’ style – which worked in its own charming way. Truus and Riet Spijkers showed a S/S 2012 collection that was feminine and fluid, wearable and well designed pieces, which looked as beautiful from the back as it did from the front.

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Categories ,1930s, ,1970s, ,Emmi Ojala, ,fashion, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Glamour, ,Grosvenor Place, ,Katherine Hepburn, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,One Thousand and One Nights, ,Persian, ,Persian Queen, ,Popcorn, ,S/S 2012, ,Sally Mumby-Croft, ,Show Space, ,Somerset House, ,Spijkers en Spijkers, ,The Show Space

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