Pan Collars – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Bora Aksu

Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Nicola Roberts was once more amongst the attendees for The Unknown, online which promised an entire narrative within the collection. Ever the romantic, tadalafil Bora Aksu discovered four old postcards in a Geneva antiques market. Initially attracted to the beautiful Edwardian imagery, it was to be the words written on the back that would inspire him the most. Written by a young lady named Rose, the postcards disclosed her love for Charles… and left Bora wondering what happened to this great romance of over one hundred years ago. And thus he embarked on The Unknown.

Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Karla Pérez aka Geiko Louve.

Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Lighting low, the show began with a group of models who emerged en masse at the head of the runway, each dressed head to toe in shades of cream and beige with their heads wrapped in flowery garlands. Before them the catwalk (with no riser this season) was strewn with autumnal petals. Short puff skirts paired with crisp sleeveless blouses gave way to columns of tulle and net, all with signature Bora Aksu detailing. The demure colouring left me with the impression of an Edwardian schoolgirl who had been caught in her undies, but amongst this were some very wearable separates that should sell well in the real world.

Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas.

With a splash of sea blue roped detailing the collection moved onto sophisticated blacks and navy blues. Sweeping dresses with ribbon seam details emphasised womanly curves and curved necklines riffed on the current mania for all things pan collared. Sheer fabrics gave a glimpse of nipple, a common theme of this fashion week.

Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by June Chanpoomidole.

I prefer my Bora with a bit more colour and structure, but this was an elegant collection that showed off Bora Aksu‘s love of all things Edwardian. It was also an excellent showcase for his new venture into the realm of hosiery. In the goodie bags were a pair of very special Bora Aksu branded tights, the rolling fishnet emulating the curved seams of his clothes: a perfect way to own a piece of Bora for a fraction of the cost of a whole outfit. Over the next few days I spotted many a pair of Bora clad legs on the front row, so it looks like he’s onto a winner.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday September 21st, 2011 2:11 pm

Categories ,Antique, ,Beige, ,BFC, ,Bora Aksu, ,Charles, ,Cream, ,Edwardian, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Geiko Louve, ,Geneva, ,Hosiery, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,June Sees, ,Karla Perez, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Megan Thomas, ,Nicola Roberts, ,Nipples, ,Pan Collars, ,postcards, ,Romantic, ,Rose, ,S/S 2012, ,Sheer, ,Somerset House, ,The Unknown, ,tights

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Peter Jensen

Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton.

For this season Peter Jensen was inspired by the force of nature that was Nina Simone, thumb picking on the many facets of her legendary life for inspiration, prescription including her overwhelming devil-may-care attitude. Presented in the Portico Rooms to a backdrop of classical music played live on a grand piano by Maria Marchant, this was a confident collection from a man who is assured of his place in the pantheon of established fashion designers.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Peter-Jensen SS-2012 by-Barb-Royal
Peter Jensen SS-2012 by Barb Royal.

Against the kitsch decor of a gold potted palm tree and signature neon bunny Peter Jensen sent out his girls in rabbit eared shades from Fabris Lane and elegant headscarfs by Bernstock Speirs: broderie anglaise, pan collars, pencil skirts with peplums, big hoop earrings by Erickson Beamon and ankle socks with t-bars all alluded to Nina Simone‘s early days as a good church going Southern girl.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Rebecca Strickson.

Then from the 70s Peter Jensen brought us relaxed gold lame jerseywear teamed with swinging gold clasp handbags and bow decorated clutches. Sexy figure hugging scribble leopard print pants were teamed with lightweight gold cable knit jumpers. A colourful block print safari on a slim trench coat and crop-legged suit was inspired by the flickering TV static of constant attention on Nina Simone, from both audience and media.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

A cheeky bi colour repeat parrot print gave a modern edge to a bare-shouldered peplum dress. Flounces running down the shoulders of a denim blue bib dress and frills just below the waist of a full gingham skirt were indicative of the cheeky feel that ran throughout this collection and was equally matched in the relaxed glamour stakes – pure Peter Jensen in other words.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Peter Jensen S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Spotted in the audience, a man with the most amazing twirly beard.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday September 26th, 2011 6:07 pm

Categories ,79s, ,Barb Royal, ,Bernstock Speirs, ,Bunnies, ,Clutch Bags, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Erickson Beamon, ,Fabris Lane, ,Frills, ,Gold, ,Leopard Print, ,lfw, ,live music, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Marchant, ,Nina, ,Nina Simone, ,Pan Collars, ,pencil skirt, ,Peter Jensen, ,piano, ,Portico Rooms, ,Rabbit, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Safari, ,Somerset House, ,Village press

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Zuo Corp

Zuo Corp S/S 2011 by Antonia Parker.

Zuo Corp used a disturbing soundtrack that featured clanging bells and what sounded like screaming monkeys. It was an odd accompaniment to a collection that featured some very elegant tailored pieces and which riffed nicely on some current on trend details. Pan collars were outsized and padded on suited bodies and fitted jackets came with a 60s vibe or exaggerated rounded sleeves, enhanced by the swirling up dos.

Zuo Corp Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia gregory

Twice a group of models trekked to the end of the catwalk in formation wearing bandeau tops and sleekly fitted pencil skirts which created a kind of glamourous lingerie vibe. Neoprene, plastic and lace were constructed into tightly tailored jacket dresses and sheaths, with an injection of colour in the form of searing tangerine orange. Many of the collection’s winning elements were repeated far more than necessary, but otherwise this was a glamourous and on trend collection with international appeal. Read my review of the A/W 2012 Zuo Corp catwalk show here. It featured a full marching band!