Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Aminaka Wilmont

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

The title Changeling on the poster-sized invitation to Aminaka Wilmont’s show – the last womenswear show in the BFC show space at Somerset House during this London Fashion Week’s season – already prepared me, cost before actually seeing the collection, illness for some allusions to legends and folklore. Of course the designers behind the Aminaka Wilmont, Maki Aminaka Löfvander and Marcus Wilmont have a wealth of such otherworldly inspiration to draw from their Swedish, Japanese and Danish cultural backgrounds.

Aminaka Wlimont LFW SS12 by MattBramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Kristina Vasiljeva

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva

The first thing that struck me when the show begun was the way the models had their hair styled with a mid-parting and straight bands of hair placed hanging in front of their ears, which immediately reminded me of Neyriti’s hairstyle in the movie Avatar.

Aminaka Willmont show LFW SS12 by Gemma Sheldrake

Aminaka Willmont S/S 2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

Interestingly, afterwards I read that Aminaka Wilmont were partly inspired for their Spring Summer 2012 collection by Ori Gersht’s photographs of dark landscapes and high mountains which look very much like Pandora’s Hallelujah Mountains in Avatar. The dove grey tones we saw in a lot of the outfits evoked the colour of karst limestone formations found in some of Gersht’s work and on the chinese Huang Shan Mountains which inspired the Hallelujah Mountains.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Perhaps following this line of thought, the designers had placed white orchids – which often grow under geological conditions such as those described above – on the front row seats while the pure white colour, and innocence of the flower was reflected in a number of simple white chiffon dresses.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Vasare Nar

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Vasare Nar

Violets and shades of brown dominated in abstract floral prints where again one could see Ori Gersht’s influence. Jersey assymetrical dresses featured cut out panels and custom-made Merve Tuna shoes came in mermaid blues and greens that alluded to creatures of an ambiguous identity. I really enjoyed the chain vial necklaces that contained something which looked like a magic potion in various bright colours.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

In line with this ambiguity of the theme of the Changeling was also the duality expressed through the use of leather in the jackets versus sheer chiffon in the dresses and skirts as well as through some bottom halves that were pants-length versus long trains hanging at the back. Indeed here I should add that I felt one should really own an otherworldly pair of legs or simply be a fairy to be able to sport some of the shorter pieces…

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Of course the most beautiful and startling contrast was between the masculine/aggressive and feminine which was revealed in the final pieces in the collection; floral printed body armour pieces with 3D flower forms sewn onto them as if the armour was blossoming. Intriguingly the designers cite as an inspiration ‘the Hayflick effect’ or limit – which is the number of times a normal cell population will divide before it stops – and I thought that at times the models looked, walked and had an expression on their faces, especially at the end when they all walked together in a huddle, like they were hopefull warriors or amazons – perhaps determined to survive in a world where the cells do not have that many more times left to divide?

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

All photography by Matt Bramford and Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,Aggressive, ,Aminaka Wilmont, ,Armour, ,Avatar, ,british fashion council, ,Changeling, ,Chiffon, ,collection, ,Danish, ,Dress, ,fairytales, ,fashion, ,Feminine, ,Folklore, ,Gemma Sheldrake, ,Hairstyle, ,Hayflick Limit, ,Jackets, ,japanese, ,jersey, ,Karst limestone, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,leather, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maki Aminaka Lofvander, ,Marcus Wilmont, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masculine, ,Matt Bramford, ,Merve Tuna, ,Necklaces, ,Neytiri, ,Orchids, ,Ori Gersht, ,Swedish, ,Vasare Nar, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Mode, Carlotta Actis Barone

Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba.

It was the huge and elaborate headdresses by Rachel Galley that grabbed our immediate attention as the first models traversed the catwalk, visit their steady heads bearing wide concoctions of twirling metal, flowers and swinging tassels for Carlotta Actis Barone‘s S/S 2012 commentary ‘on the stolen liberty and beauty associated with prostitution.’

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Carlotta Actis Barone is one of three designers who are being mentored by Fashion Mode, a mysterious entity that provides direction and support in everything from design to business management and marketing.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas.

The new collection was inspired by a cross pollination of cultural ideas: Victorian brothels and French boudoir style from the turn of the last century contrasted with the high class prostitution and honour traditionally associated with being a Geisha.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 by t. reidy
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by t.reidy.

Swishing lilac and cream dresses with roped detailing around the bust and waist signified the imprisonment of prostitution, whilst loosely draped pencil skirts and lingerie-styled tunics suggested a more playful air of seduction, accessorised with wide patterned kimono inspired waist wraps.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Orchid hair accessories and china doll make-up added to the air of naive idolisation of feminine beauty, but the clash of styles did not always work. Wrinkled tights patterned with stripes of letters (a signature of Barone) were a questionable styling detail and high heeled see through plastic stripper shoes filled with orchids were downright tacky, but overall this was an eye-catching collection from a talented new designer with original ideas. Amongst my favourite pieces were cream big pocketed trench coats with huge flouncy bows on the bum, and vibrant tropical printed silk dresses in green, vermillion and lime.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

The definitely not very shy and retiring Carlotta Actis Barone was wearing one of her printed boudoir wraps when she strode out to take a bow at the end of the catwalk, and – somewhat ironically given the theme of her collection – her bosoms made an excited bid for freedom, much to the amusement of the crowd.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Brothels, ,Carlotta Actis Barone, ,Casey Otremba, ,China Doll, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Mode, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,French Boudoir, ,Geisha, ,Headdresses, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Megan Thomas, ,Orchids, ,prints, ,Prostitution, ,Rachel Galley, ,Stripper Shoes, ,t.reidy, ,Tassels, ,Tina Reidy, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Mode, Carlotta Actis Barone

Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba.

It was the huge and elaborate headdresses by Rachel Galley that grabbed our immediate attention as the first models traversed the catwalk, visit their steady heads bearing wide concoctions of twirling metal, flowers and swinging tassels for Carlotta Actis Barone‘s S/S 2012 commentary ‘on the stolen liberty and beauty associated with prostitution.’

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Carlotta Actis Barone is one of three designers who are being mentored by Fashion Mode, a mysterious entity that provides direction and support in everything from design to business management and marketing.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas.

The new collection was inspired by a cross pollination of cultural ideas: Victorian brothels and French boudoir style from the turn of the last century contrasted with the high class prostitution and honour traditionally associated with being a Geisha.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 by t. reidy
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by t.reidy.

Swishing lilac and cream dresses with roped detailing around the bust and waist signified the imprisonment of prostitution, whilst loosely draped pencil skirts and lingerie-styled tunics suggested a more playful air of seduction, accessorised with wide patterned kimono inspired waist wraps.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Orchid hair accessories and china doll make-up added to the air of naive idolisation of feminine beauty, but the clash of styles did not always work. Wrinkled tights patterned with stripes of letters (a signature of Barone) were a questionable styling detail and high heeled see through plastic stripper shoes filled with orchids were downright tacky, but overall this was an eye-catching collection from a talented new designer with original ideas. Amongst my favourite pieces were cream big pocketed trench coats with huge flouncy bows on the bum, and vibrant tropical printed silk dresses in green, vermillion and lime.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

The definitely not very shy and retiring Carlotta Actis Barone was wearing one of her printed boudoir wraps when she strode out to take a bow at the end of the catwalk, and – somewhat ironically given the theme of her collection – her bosoms made an excited bid for freedom, much to the amusement of the crowd.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Brothels, ,Carlotta Actis Barone, ,Casey Otremba, ,China Doll, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Mode, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,French Boudoir, ,Geisha, ,Headdresses, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Megan Thomas, ,Orchids, ,prints, ,Prostitution, ,Rachel Galley, ,Stripper Shoes, ,t.reidy, ,Tassels, ,Tina Reidy, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Accessory Designer Hope Von Joel from Eye of the World Designs

Eye of the World by Milly Jackson
Eye of the World S/S 2012 collection by Milly Jackson.

Hope Von Joel is a multi-talented knitwear designer, more about stylist, see fashion editor and accessories designer. But just how does she do it all? Read on to find out more about Eye of the World Designs.

Hope, you studied knitwear at Central Saint Martins and have also worked with the likes of Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh and Charlie le Mindu. As a stylist you’ve been a fashion editor for Super Super and now at Fiasco Magazine. What prompted the move into accessories design and was it a steep learning curve?
During my time at Central Saint Martins I worked at the houses of McQueen and Pugh on knitwear and design. These where both invaluable experiences and have definitely shaped by view of fashion to this date. It was a pleasure to see how the Design teams worked on the process behind such imaginative and wonderful collections. Styling wise yes I have previously worked with Charlie Le Mindu on his catwalk collection and Look Book; his creative flair is addictive and he is definitely a very capable and imaginative designer and business man! Styling for me is a great pleasure, I have worked on all sorts of projects from editorials for Elle Girl, Vogue, Oyster etc, to various fashion shows and big creative advertising campaigns – it’s a job with many different dimensions. I am always thrilled to work with clothing and accessories which break boundaries and challenge perceptions of the female form.  

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World Designs created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

WIth this in mind the move over to accessories designing was quite easy. Having studied the concept of design at Central Saint Martins and seeing what is on offer from the bigger design houses I felt there was definitely a place in the market for sustainable, beautifully designed and hand finished pieces that are also made in the UK. What is nice about this sort of design is the fact that people can follow it from the design to the finished piece. Much of our raw materials are recycled or reclaimed and this gives the buyer a personal experience. I had the opportunity to work with Brooke Roberts because I was styling her collections, and it has been a great platform to launch the designs and see them worn with knitwear, which is another one of my passions.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

How do you juggle your different jobs? 
It’s about time management and everything has its place. The way I work is very creative but things overlap and that’s the joy of London and the creative scene. I am with an agent in London for my styling: Clicks and Contacts. They are a great creative push in that area and the rest I am learning along the way. 

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

What’s in a name? How did you come up with Eye of the World designs?
Eye of the World Designs was thought up by my business partner Liam Motyer when we where travelling in South America. It became one of our favourite sayings and can apply to anything and everything. Our love of the organic form of wood seemed to offer a great view point on the world. I like the way it influences everything, very much like fashion; and so our use of wood has stuck.

Eye of the World S/S 2012 belts by Estelle Morris
Eye of the World S/S 2012 belts by Estelle Morris.

What inspires you when you start creating a collection and how do you ensure your ideas are translated into successful accessories. What parameters do you need to consider?
Colour colour colour colour… and wood. We take influences from anything and everything, from organic forms to marbles and glass… really anything that touches us. The colours of wood play a great influence, so if something doesn’t go with wood it’s not for us! This season we have been loving Orchids, Marbles and Wood. We always consider the season, who our customer is and what she is going to wear our accessories for. It’s like playing dress up with your favourite doll, creating a scene, place and style for each particular season.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

Most of your designs use wood – why is this and where do you source your wood from?
All our wood is sustainable, reclaimed or recycled and sourced locally to SE London. The reason we love wood is because Liam is a master craftsmen and his creativity and flair is in his manipulation of wood. We design and hand make every piece together in Peckham, with much love.

Eye of the World Designs S/S 2012
Eye of the World Designs S/S 2012.

Your pieces are notable for being extremely bold. How do you think they are best worn?
With a smile and a confidence that belongs to the wearer. I think that you should wear your clothes and accessories instead of letting them wear you.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

Your collection is styled with knitwear by Brooke Roberts – how does this collaboration work, and does it make you miss the world of knitwear? Any chance of a return?  
We worked with Brooke Roberts on two collaborations this season and last season. Last season I also styled her collections as I have done for some time. Her knitwear is luxurious and beautifully finished and her organic forms lend themselves to wooden accessories beautifully. I would love to return to knitwear and sometime soon I know I will! It’s a love and once you have the bug and the creative knowledge it’s like riding a bike.

Eye of the World Designs Converse
You recently created a special piece for the Converse Bag range. Can you tell me a little bit more about this project and what inspired your design?
Working with Converse was ace, we where asked to design a bag that reflected our love for Back to School. For us school was about movies, skating and moving forwards with speed. So we referenced the movie Back to the Future and created a real treat – a wooden and red flocked bag that combines music and design. Our signature is wood and so it seemed a perfect combination. The wood was all reclaimed and matched the original bags colour and the flocking is a technique that we are perfecting at the moment. We are also flocking wooden hats for editorials, so watch this space. We had a ball making the Converse bag and look forward to more projects in the future.

Eye of the World Designs Converse bag
What’s next for Eye of the World?
Well the world is our oyster. We hope to make more bespoke accessories because we love making extravagant pieces, which we have done for a few mega editorials that will be out in some big publications shortly. We are also now working on an A/W 2012 collection that will sparkle you all away. Eye of the World Designs continues to collaborate with all sorts of people. Our master craftsman Liam is creating some pieces with furniture makers Hendzel and Hunt for Designersblock and also for Selfridges. Lastly but most excitingly Eye of the World Designs for Brooke Roberts are now available to buy at Browns Focus and bespoke pieces are available directly from us.

You can follow Hope Von Joel‘s exploits on her blog, and don’t forget to take a peek at the Eye Of The World website too.

Categories ,accessories, ,Alexander Mc Queen, ,Back to School, ,Brooke Roberts, ,Browns Focus, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Clicks and Contacts, ,Converse Bag, ,Designersblock, ,Elle Girl, ,Estelle Morris, ,Eye of the World, ,Fashion Editor, ,Fiasco Magazine, ,Gareth Pugh, ,interview, ,knitwear, ,Liam Motyer, ,Marbles, ,Milly Jackson, ,Orchids, ,Oyster, ,Peckham, ,Reclaimed, ,recycled, ,S/S 2012, ,Selfridges, ,stylist, ,Super Super, ,sustainable, ,vogue, ,wood, ,Woodcraft

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