Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Leutton Postle

Leutton Postle S/S12 by Alia GargumLeutton Postle LFW S/S12 illustration by Alia Gargum

Upon checking some of Leutton Postle’s previous work I became really excited about the prospect of going to see their first London Fashion Week show and collection: I could see it featured turf-like groups of cable ties sprouting out of hooded garments in various places and I have always used them a lot in my work. A few months ago I spotted a glorious neckpiece made out of cable ties in a high street store window display, information pills so seeing them in Leutton Postle‘s work further confirmed my suspicion that cable ties might just be having a fashion moment.

Leutton Postle LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Being a newbie to London Fashion Week I could have waited happily for hours in the queue but actually the show was delayed only by half an hour or so, which is pretty good I hear. I followed the crowd into Freemasons’ Hall (Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s venue) and picked up a spot next to the pro photographers at the end of the runway, a decision which made my experience much more intense. As soon as the models came out it was not the soundtrack to the show that I heard but the constant clicking from such a large number of cameras gathered near me; and to me that was just as thrilling.

Leutton Postle LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle S/S12 LFW by Gemma Sheldrake
Leutton Postle S/S 2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

Behind the luxury knitwear label Leutton Postle are designers Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle, both Central Saint Martins graduates – upon graduating Jenny had her MA AW11 collection snapped up by London’s Browns Focus and Sam went to China to work with knitwear innovators Stoll. Their pieces are truly original with a couture quality and they suggest time-consuming experimentation with knitwear design. I felt that in the colourful, intricate and eccentric designs of their collaborative label there was a real enjoyment of craft and play.

Leutton Postle LFW S/S12 by Sam Parr
Leutton Postle S/S 2012 by Sam Parr

Leutton Postle LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle10 LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle LFW S/S12 by Emmi Ojala
Leutton Postle S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

Apart from the fact that the collection was very colourful, which has a natural appeal to me personally, the patchwork element was another thing I really enjoyed and it made me think that perhaps in the future, when all designers might have to use mainly scraps and leftovers or recycle fabrics for their designs, it would not be that bad at all if you had Leutton Postle’s talent and imagination! In a way parts of the clothes did seem like they had been constructed from random bits and pieces, put together really cleverly.

Leutton Postle10 LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle10 LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle10 LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle10 LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle10 LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle10 LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle10 LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle10 LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle10 LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Extra elements of colourful playfulness were added to the show by the models’ make up which looked like they had just eaten from a bowl of multicoloured paint soup and then not wiped themselves properly, but it was a shame that some of the models’ faces did not match all that wonderful colour happiness, maybe the soup was not that good…

Leutton Postle LFW S/S12 show 'Baby Fashionista' photo by Maria Papadimitriou
There was also a very colourful toddler in the front row, photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Leutton Postle LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle LFW S/S12 photo by Amelia Gregory
The designers Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle photo by Amelia Gregory
The designers themselves, however, looked very cheery and beautiful when they came out at the end to wave at an audience that was clapping in a very colourful way indeed!

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Amelia Gregory, ,Browns Focus, ,catwalk show, ,colour, ,couture, ,craft, ,Emmi Ojala, ,fashion, ,Fashion Designer, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gemma Sheldrake, ,Jenny Postle, ,knitwear, ,Leutton Postle, ,London Fashion Week, ,Make-up, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Merit Winner, ,photography, ,Sam Leutton, ,Sam Parr, ,Stoll, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | Designer Spotlight: Joelle Jerome hits the ground running

joellejerome 3Imagery throughout courtesy of Joelle Jerome, ambulance photographed by Steph Ross.

Where/ what did you study?
I studied at Northampton University on a BA Fashion Course, stuff graduating in 2007.

Did you always know you wanted a career within fashion?
No. I’ve always wanted to do something creative apart from a brief spell of wanting to be an accountant and I’ve always loved clothes but it wasn’t till I was about 16 or 17 after a visit to Spitalfields market that I decided. I was very inspired and from that day onwards I knew I wanted to set up my own label.

joellejerome 8What have you been up to since graduating? /When did you establish the Joelle Jerome label?
My first job after finishing University was for a Lingerie and Nightwear supplier. Alongside this I continued to work on my own designs, discount showing at Alternative Fashion Week in 2008. When I was made redundant later in 2008 alongside doing some freelance work I decided to follow my dream and set up the Joelle Jerome label.

As you know Amelia’s magazine likes to promote and highlight designers who use both fair trade and eco processes their designs, how does Joelle Jerome approach ethical design?
I source my fabrics from a local warehouse who specialise in remnant deadstock fabrics, therefore cutting down on waste which I feel is a massive problem in this throwaway society we live in today. I like to keep as much as I can local. My manufacturers are also just a two minute walk down the road.

joellejerome 4

Do you have a career highlight so far?
It’s the simple things that have been highlights for me so far, like selling my first dress. A new singer on the scene called Eleanor Seabird was one of the first customers to visit my online shop and also sang at my launch night. Also gaining interest from retailers who want to stock my line is great. It’s so hard for small labels these days so it’s great to know that there’s so much support out there.

What kind of woman/customer do you design for?
Women who know their own style and don’t feel the necessity to follow trends other people have set for them, but to make their own.

joelle jerome2

Can you tell our readers what your inspirations were for your SS10 collection?
The collection is called ‘batsandcats’. It has many contrasting elements with a dark grungy side mixed with a pretty girly innocence. I was very inspired by the character of Enid in the film and comic book Ghost World.

What are you looking forward to in the next decade?
Meeting lots more people and building on the Joelle Jerome label. Hopefully taking it internationally whilst retaining its UK roots. I also have a few other ventures (top secret at the moment, sorry) and collaborations I would like to do. I want to beat this credit crunch I got a little caught up in. View the Joelle Jerome collection here.

joellejerome 6

Categories ,Alternative Fashion Week, ,Eleanor Seabird, ,Ghost World, ,Joelle Jerome, ,Northampton University, ,Spitalfields Market

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Amelia’s Magazine | Bubble London January 2014 – Kidswear and Babywear Show Report

Ruff and Huddle tie dye sweat shirt

Last weekend I decided it was high time I found out more about the world of kidswear, so I made my first trip to Bubble London, a major childrenswear fashion trade show that takes place at the Business Design Centre twice a year. There were a huge number of brands on display, so I scooted around as fast as I could, catching up with old favourites and discovering new charms aplenty. Here’s my run down of exciting kidswear, Amelia’s Magazine style. More than a few of these will be available directly from my website when we relaunch; I can’t wait.

Ruff and Huddle sweatsuit girls

Ruff & Huddle came into being just last year, and unsurprisingly they are attracting loads of attention: think cool urban kidswear, with many of the designs put together in collaboration with street artists and illustrators including Zakee Shariff. This was an impressively large new collection, encompassing coats, sweats, embroidered pieces, onesies, tees and much more. Aren’t these two girls in their topknots and matching tie- dye sweatsuits just too damn cool?

Slugs and Snails tights - penguins

It was brilliant to meet Kathleen of Slugs & Snails, the Irish boys’ tights brand that she set up to cater to her own boy’s needs. Just before Christmas she had another boy (so well behaved, he happily lay in his cot as we talked) and has somehow managed to add a number of brilliant new designs to her tights collection as well. I particularly love this penguin design, but you will also find a puzzle design, octopi, umbrellas and more. Slugs & Snails offers the perfect combination of practicality and pattern, so it’s no surprise that I dress Snarfle in their tights every day during the winter. I really can’t get enough of this brand and am very excited that they will feature on the new website’s market place: read my interview with Kathleen Redmond here.

Raspberry Plum kidswear

It was also a pleasure to meet Jenny Mortimer of Kyna Boutique – an online store which stocks some of the best organic baby wear brands around. She was at Bubble London to catch up with some of her brands and judge the Rising Star award: this went to new brand Raspberry Plum by RCA graduate Aleksandra Stasic. The label specialises in the kind of unique tailoring that would not look out of place in an adult wardrobe.

Matthew Bromley print

I must have missed the Anorak Magazine creative sessions but I fell in love with this risograph print on the wall. When I could not locate a credit several people on social media were able to inform me that it’s by Matthew Bromley. Gotta love those dinosaur vibes.

Smafolk kidswear - owl print

Smafolk kidswear print - tractors

Smafolk hanger animals

I am so upset it is not easier to buy Småfolk kidswear in the UK. Thanks to The Killing and The Bridge the Danes have inadvertently pushed a minimalist grey aesthetic on the world, but they are just as good at vivacious brights. I adore the liveliness of their all over prints; even the Småfolk animal hangers rock. Yet again I have to thank my friends on social media for recommendations to buy from these websites if you live in the UK: Juicy Tots, Bebaboo and Emilea.

Mini Melissa cat shoes

I’ve been a Melissa fan for many a year, and have now discovered there are Mini Melissa shoes for little people: with cat faces.

Wild Things dresses, placement patch -house

I want to live in this house! This placement patch print comes on the front of a yellow dress from the new print range by Wild Things dressmaker Kirsty Hartley. Despite operating entirely from a shop on Etsy this brand has deservedly been gaining lots of attention. Truly magical kidswear.

Le Bluu moon and robot print - kidswear

This robot and moon design features on a sweatshirt design from Le Bluu, a Spanish brand focused on the application of new environmentally friendly technologies in garment design. Think futuristic dye techniques, light up panels, sound responsive designs and more!

Holly and Beau colour change anoraks - kidswear

Another Bubble London discovery was the brand new launch collection from the Norwich based graduate siblings behind Holly and Beau. The rockets and spaceships on these anoraks take on colours in the rain. What an incredibly cute and practical idea.

There is now a huge variety of kidswear available on the market and whilst I think it’s madness to spend silly money on ridiculously expensive clothing for children who will quickly outgrow it (ahem, big name designer labels) I’m all for supporting the more reasonably priced independent brands. Why not buy a few key pieces from nice labels as your child grows, thereby spending on quality rather than quantity? I’d also like to recommend our very own local kidswear label, Oh Baby London, based on Brick Lane. Lovely designs, organic materials, and built to last.

Categories ,2014, ,Aleksandra Stasic, ,Anorak Magazine, ,Babywear, ,Bebaboo, ,Brick Lane, ,Bubble London, ,Business Design Centre, ,Emilea, ,etsy, ,fashion, ,Holly and Beau, ,January, ,Jenny Mortimer, ,Juicy Tots, ,Kathleen Redmond, ,Kidswear, ,Kirsty Hartley, ,Kyna Boutique, ,Le Bluu, ,Matthew Bromley, ,Mini Melissa, ,Oh Baby London, ,Raspberry Plum, ,review, ,Rising Star, ,Ruff & Huddle, ,Slugs and Snails, ,Småfolk, ,Trade Show, ,Wild Things, ,Zakee Shariff

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Accessory Designer Hope Von Joel from Eye of the World Designs

Eye of the World by Milly Jackson
Eye of the World S/S 2012 collection by Milly Jackson.

Hope Von Joel is a multi-talented knitwear designer, more about stylist, see fashion editor and accessories designer. But just how does she do it all? Read on to find out more about Eye of the World Designs.

Hope, you studied knitwear at Central Saint Martins and have also worked with the likes of Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh and Charlie le Mindu. As a stylist you’ve been a fashion editor for Super Super and now at Fiasco Magazine. What prompted the move into accessories design and was it a steep learning curve?
During my time at Central Saint Martins I worked at the houses of McQueen and Pugh on knitwear and design. These where both invaluable experiences and have definitely shaped by view of fashion to this date. It was a pleasure to see how the Design teams worked on the process behind such imaginative and wonderful collections. Styling wise yes I have previously worked with Charlie Le Mindu on his catwalk collection and Look Book; his creative flair is addictive and he is definitely a very capable and imaginative designer and business man! Styling for me is a great pleasure, I have worked on all sorts of projects from editorials for Elle Girl, Vogue, Oyster etc, to various fashion shows and big creative advertising campaigns – it’s a job with many different dimensions. I am always thrilled to work with clothing and accessories which break boundaries and challenge perceptions of the female form.  

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World Designs created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

WIth this in mind the move over to accessories designing was quite easy. Having studied the concept of design at Central Saint Martins and seeing what is on offer from the bigger design houses I felt there was definitely a place in the market for sustainable, beautifully designed and hand finished pieces that are also made in the UK. What is nice about this sort of design is the fact that people can follow it from the design to the finished piece. Much of our raw materials are recycled or reclaimed and this gives the buyer a personal experience. I had the opportunity to work with Brooke Roberts because I was styling her collections, and it has been a great platform to launch the designs and see them worn with knitwear, which is another one of my passions.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

How do you juggle your different jobs? 
It’s about time management and everything has its place. The way I work is very creative but things overlap and that’s the joy of London and the creative scene. I am with an agent in London for my styling: Clicks and Contacts. They are a great creative push in that area and the rest I am learning along the way. 

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

What’s in a name? How did you come up with Eye of the World designs?
Eye of the World Designs was thought up by my business partner Liam Motyer when we where travelling in South America. It became one of our favourite sayings and can apply to anything and everything. Our love of the organic form of wood seemed to offer a great view point on the world. I like the way it influences everything, very much like fashion; and so our use of wood has stuck.

Eye of the World S/S 2012 belts by Estelle Morris
Eye of the World S/S 2012 belts by Estelle Morris.

What inspires you when you start creating a collection and how do you ensure your ideas are translated into successful accessories. What parameters do you need to consider?
Colour colour colour colour… and wood. We take influences from anything and everything, from organic forms to marbles and glass… really anything that touches us. The colours of wood play a great influence, so if something doesn’t go with wood it’s not for us! This season we have been loving Orchids, Marbles and Wood. We always consider the season, who our customer is and what she is going to wear our accessories for. It’s like playing dress up with your favourite doll, creating a scene, place and style for each particular season.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

Most of your designs use wood – why is this and where do you source your wood from?
All our wood is sustainable, reclaimed or recycled and sourced locally to SE London. The reason we love wood is because Liam is a master craftsmen and his creativity and flair is in his manipulation of wood. We design and hand make every piece together in Peckham, with much love.

Eye of the World Designs S/S 2012
Eye of the World Designs S/S 2012.

Your pieces are notable for being extremely bold. How do you think they are best worn?
With a smile and a confidence that belongs to the wearer. I think that you should wear your clothes and accessories instead of letting them wear you.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

Your collection is styled with knitwear by Brooke Roberts – how does this collaboration work, and does it make you miss the world of knitwear? Any chance of a return?  
We worked with Brooke Roberts on two collaborations this season and last season. Last season I also styled her collections as I have done for some time. Her knitwear is luxurious and beautifully finished and her organic forms lend themselves to wooden accessories beautifully. I would love to return to knitwear and sometime soon I know I will! It’s a love and once you have the bug and the creative knowledge it’s like riding a bike.

Eye of the World Designs Converse
You recently created a special piece for the Converse Bag range. Can you tell me a little bit more about this project and what inspired your design?
Working with Converse was ace, we where asked to design a bag that reflected our love for Back to School. For us school was about movies, skating and moving forwards with speed. So we referenced the movie Back to the Future and created a real treat – a wooden and red flocked bag that combines music and design. Our signature is wood and so it seemed a perfect combination. The wood was all reclaimed and matched the original bags colour and the flocking is a technique that we are perfecting at the moment. We are also flocking wooden hats for editorials, so watch this space. We had a ball making the Converse bag and look forward to more projects in the future.

Eye of the World Designs Converse bag
What’s next for Eye of the World?
Well the world is our oyster. We hope to make more bespoke accessories because we love making extravagant pieces, which we have done for a few mega editorials that will be out in some big publications shortly. We are also now working on an A/W 2012 collection that will sparkle you all away. Eye of the World Designs continues to collaborate with all sorts of people. Our master craftsman Liam is creating some pieces with furniture makers Hendzel and Hunt for Designersblock and also for Selfridges. Lastly but most excitingly Eye of the World Designs for Brooke Roberts are now available to buy at Browns Focus and bespoke pieces are available directly from us.

You can follow Hope Von Joel‘s exploits on her blog, and don’t forget to take a peek at the Eye Of The World website too.

Categories ,accessories, ,Alexander Mc Queen, ,Back to School, ,Brooke Roberts, ,Browns Focus, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Clicks and Contacts, ,Converse Bag, ,Designersblock, ,Elle Girl, ,Estelle Morris, ,Eye of the World, ,Fashion Editor, ,Fiasco Magazine, ,Gareth Pugh, ,interview, ,knitwear, ,Liam Motyer, ,Marbles, ,Milly Jackson, ,Orchids, ,Oyster, ,Peckham, ,Reclaimed, ,recycled, ,S/S 2012, ,Selfridges, ,stylist, ,Super Super, ,sustainable, ,vogue, ,wood, ,Woodcraft

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