Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland – Page 2

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Monika Ptaszek

Monika-Ptaszek-Polish-Fashion-Week-by-Antonia-Parker
Monika Ptaszek S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

One of my very favourite collections at Fashion Week Poland this time around came courtesy of Monika Ptaszek, who showed a menswear collection that mashed together a variety of eclectic styles to great effect. Think teddyboy meets punk meets rave meets grunge: the final effect was the epitome of Polish style when it’s done right.

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Monika Ptaszek S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Models came with serious attitude, sporting impressive quiffs and pouting with great intent at the end of the catwalk. Androgynous elements such as lace swing tops, swirly sheer leggings and bespoke brocade shoes sat together easily with manly studded details on sleeves and cropped tartan jackets. Colourful floral prints and patchwork hoods were accessorised with chunky woven scarves. I spoke with Monika Ptaszek afterwards at her stand, and was intrigued to discover that her last collection was entirely black. For S/S 2012 she cites the metropolitan man who roams Paris as her ideal customer, and I can well imagine him wearing Ptaszek for Men. Loved it.

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

And not forgetting the fabulous brocade shoes:

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday November 8th, 2011 7:38 pm

Categories ,80s, ,Antonia Parker, ,Brocade, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,gay, ,grunge, ,Lodz, ,menswear, ,Metropolitan, ,Monika Ptaszek, ,paris, ,Patchwork, ,Ptaszek for Men, ,punk, ,rave, ,Teddyboy

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Shumik 100% and Aga Pou

Aga Pou S/S 2012 by Marta Spendowska.

Time for reports from the last two shows of my trip to Poland… Shumik 100% and Aga Pou.

Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Shumik 100% S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I was utterly bemused by the Shumik 100% show – at the back of the catwalk a neon pink backdrop declared ‘Headwear Design‘ so I spent the whole show convinced that the bizarre hats – over the top feathered creations and ugly turbans in every conceivable type of wrap – were all that we were being shown. I thus paid very little attention to the clothes, an insipid and flimsy collection made up of sweetie coloured chiffon and shiny stretch fabrics. I was afterwards informed that the Shumik designers Karina Gozdz and Anna Leszkiewicz have been working professionally for several years and that IN LOVE was their first collection created together. Not impressed.

Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Much better was the last catwalk show of my visit to Fashion Week Poland, an angular affair from Aga Pou. For S/S 2012 she was inspired by cubism, using transparent fabrics to give the impression of blocks penetrating each other. Unfortunately I was late getting to the show and was only allowed to stand at the side which afforded me a dire view and severely limited my ability to take decent photos, thereby putting me in a foul mood since the collection seemed really quite impressive… all in all the Aga Pou collection was a pretty good way to sign out of the Polish S/S 2012 season.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday November 14th, 2011 12:03 am

Categories ,Aga Pou, ,Anna Leszkiewicz, ,Chiffon, ,Cubism, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,geometric, ,hats, ,Headwear, ,IN LOVE, ,Karina Gozdz, ,Lodz, ,Marta Spendowska, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Transparent

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Street Style

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
It was harder to shoot Street Style at this Fashion Week Poland than at last, due in part to the cold weather which kept us huddling indoors but also because of the ever increasing bump that I now have to drag around with me everywhere. Both connived to prevent me from hunting down as many extravagant dressers. But here’s an idea of what Street Style Polish Style (and a bit of front row international fashion) looks like in late 2011.

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style

Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 Street Style. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday November 21st, 2011 11:54 am

Categories ,80s, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Jemima Daisy, ,Lodz, ,Malgosia Kralkowska, ,Marcellous, ,Phaedra, ,S/S 2012, ,Street Style, ,Systeme D

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Teresa Kopias

Teresa Kopias S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve.

I arrived late for the Teresa Kopias show, which afforded me a great view of the models posing in front of a wind machine at the head of the catwalk, but sadly not of the buff men posed on stilts at the other end.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory

Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. All photography Amelia Gregory.

I have been told that Teresa Kopias is not what is considered a ‘proper’ designer in Poland, rather she is someone who has been around for ever, who started her career many years ago selling dresses on a market stall and now makes high end formal wear. Well, she may not be massively fashion forward, but I thought her beautifully made dresses were pretty fabulous for a special occasion, and I could easily see a few of them gracing the red carpet.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory

The show was split into two halves, with the first section given over to formal day wear: brightly coloured shantung silk dresses with oversized bow detailing. The lighting then became more dramatic as a series of blowsy chiffon dresses took centre stage. Teresa Kopias‘ S/S 2012 collection may not have been ground-breaking, but it was rather lovely, I thought.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory

Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. Doesn’t this last model have a touch of the Kate Moss about her?

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory

Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. Note buff men on stilts!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday November 1st, 2011 5:23 pm

Categories ,Chiffon, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Geiko Louve, ,Kate Moss, ,Lodz, ,Naked Men, ,Shantung Silk, ,Teresa Kopias

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Zuo Corp

Zuo Corp S/S 2011 by Antonia Parker.

Zuo Corp used a disturbing soundtrack that featured clanging bells and what sounded like screaming monkeys. It was an odd accompaniment to a collection that featured some very elegant tailored pieces and which riffed nicely on some current on trend details. Pan collars were outsized and padded on suited bodies and fitted jackets came with a 60s vibe or exaggerated rounded sleeves, enhanced by the swirling up dos.

Zuo Corp Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia gregory

Twice a group of models trekked to the end of the catwalk in formation wearing bandeau tops and sleekly fitted pencil skirts which created a kind of glamourous lingerie vibe. Neoprene, plastic and lace were constructed into tightly tailored jacket dresses and sheaths, with an injection of colour in the form of searing tangerine orange. Many of the collection’s winning elements were repeated far more than necessary, but otherwise this was a glamourous and on trend collection with international appeal. Read my review of the A/W 2012 Zuo Corp catwalk show here. It featured a full marching band!

Zuo Corp Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia gregory

Zuo Corp S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday November 9th, 2011 9:57 am

Categories ,60s, ,Antonia Parker, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,lingerie, ,Lodz, ,Neoprene, ,Orange, ,Pan Collars, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Sculptural, ,Suiting, ,Zuo Corp

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Berenika Czarnota

Berenika Czarnota 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
Berenika Czarnota A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs.

Having seen the cute photo in the Fashion Week Poland guide book I was most excited to see the first catwalk show back over at Expo on Sunday… Designer Berenika Czarnota did not disappoint, malady showing a series of fabulously inventive yet wearable knitwear in shades of grey, remedy with highlights of lime, orange and blue. And at last there was the chance to admire some interesting styling, even if it was a tad overplayed: each model came out with a cute little wolf mask perched at a jaunty angle on her head. Calf high socks with block-heeled shoes worked especially well in tomato red.

Berenika Czarnota A/W 2011 by Michelle Urvall Nyrén.

Chunky knit jumpers, cowls, dresses and throw shawls featured over-sized cabling, intarsia block lettering and in one case an intarsia helicopter. Floaty print designs called to mind cloudy skies or batik-like splodges. The collection became weaker towards the end as more commercial pieces started to feature heavily in what was an overly long show, but Berenika Czarnota was undoubtedly one of my favourite designers from Fashion Week Poland. Great stuff.

Berenika Czarnota A/W 2011 by Michelle Urvall Nyrén.

Berenika Czarnota ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Berenika Czarnota A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday May 31st, 2011 9:31 am

Categories ,Berenika Czarnota, ,Cable, ,Designers’ Avenue, ,Expo, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Intarsia, ,knitwear, ,Lodz, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masks, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,prints, ,Slowly the Eggs

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule A/W 2011 in Łódź: Maldoror

Maldoror Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 by Fawn Carr
Maldoror A/W 2011 by Fawn Carr.

The hissing sighs of Diamandas Galas provided the musical backdrop to this edgy show from Maldoror by Grzegorz Matl?g, pills which featured street cast models who I had seen around already in the audience at Fashion Week Poland – a refreshing change from the same old faces on every catwalk. Black outfits opened the show, high necked and lacy for both men and women, culminating in a butt revealing suit made entirely of net. Grzegorz Matl?g works with recycled materials, his aim being to challenge the wearer “to create their own look without the cultural restraints and defects of consumerism.” High ideals indeed, and ones which I of course heartily applaud.

Maldoror by Rebecca Strickson.

Things really started hotting up for me with the introduction of bright devilish red. I particularly loved the short-legged man’s red silk shantung suit paired with shiny red loafers and tied loosely at the waist, followed by a round shouldered coat for women and two interesting sequinned patchwork pieces.

Maldoror Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory

Maldoror had constructed some stunning garments for this show but as was true of many other Polish collections successful ideas were not developed to their full potential with The Accuser – which was a shame because I love what he is doing. The show ended to the sound of clanging bells, again. A sound which was done to death at Fashion Week Poland, but which was just about justified in this case. Maldoror is available in the UK at Not Just a Label.

Maldoror Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Maldoror A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 30th, 2011 9:53 pm

Categories ,bells, ,black, ,Diamandas Galas, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fawn Carr, ,Grzegorz Matląg, ,Lodz, ,Maldoror, ,Not Just a Label, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Palgue Mass, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,recycled, ,Red, ,The Accuser, ,Upcycled

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Blessus

Blessus S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Blessus S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Blessus showed Navaho against a bright orange screen, a suitable background to an earthy collection of burnt shades inspired by the Navajo indians of Arizona. It featured tailored jackets and yards of chiffon with a combination of pencil skirts, tight trousers and skater skirts. Ikat and wallpaper inspired prints were highlights. Blessus is Marta Matuszewska and Michael Hekmat.

Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Blessus S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday November 12th, 2011 3:31 pm

Categories ,Blessus, ,Chiffon, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Ikat, ,Lodz, ,Marta Matuszewska, ,Michael Hekmat, ,Navaho, ,Navajo, ,Skater skirts

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Dawid Tomaszewski

Dawid Tomaszewski by Karolina Burdon.

Dawid Tomaszewski is the prodigal son who got away… a Polish boy who studied internationally, sickness including at the London College of Fashion, order before settling in Berlin where he started his own name label in 2008 to much acclaim. For Friday’s finale he showed directly after The Golden Thread awards at Fashion Week Poland, and it was a salient reminder of what exactly is expected from world class fashion design.

Dawid Tomaszewski by Rebecca Strickson.

Strobe lights and the soft patter of rainfall were overlaid by an increasingly frantic piano as models with neat up dos and side fringes swept onto the catwalk. This was a tightly edited collection that encompassed beautifully fitted dresses with well placed ruffles, high waisted pleated tweed skirts, huge cowl necked woven knits and crystal encrusted bodices. Of particular acclaim was a bodiced body topped with a shimmering gauze dress. Earthy woollens gave way to jade green silk and subtlety dip dyed floating gowns worthy of the red carpet. It was an incredibly attractive and polished collection that had more than a hint of classic British design. There was much here for Polish fashion designers to aspire to, although I am hoping the fur arms were not real.

David Tomaszewski Fashion Week Poland AW 2011

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 16th, 2011 10:18 pm

Categories ,berlin, ,british, ,catwalk, ,Dawid Tomaszewski, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Jaeger, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Lodz, ,London College of Fashion, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,The Golden Thread, ,Vivienne Westwood

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Monnari

Monnari ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Monnari A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I was told to expect a very commercial collection from one of Poland’s biggest fashion brands, information pills which opened with the Monnari face – a sexy older lady. ‘Ex model, advice TV presenter’ – myself and my neighbour correctly guessed as I marvelled at the polished front row opposite us.

Monnari ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory

Wrap overs, petal skirts, cable knits, lime, purple and a first showing for on trend emerald green. Dreadful jewellery. Grey, moire, lilac brocade, splashy flower prints and an unnecessary fur cape. Totally without focus and commercial as promised.

Monnari ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Monnari A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory