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Amelia’s Magazine | New Designers 2012 Jewellery Graduates and One Year On

New Designers part one 2012 -Cassandra Pittaway
Sadly I was unable to make it to the main stands showcasing the graduate jewellery collections (Snarfle got fed up and we had to leave) but I did manage to find a few gems (hur hur) amongst the craft displays, and there were plenty of jewellers displaying their new work in the One Year On section. Here’s what I found…

New Designers part one 2012 -Cassandra Pittaway
Ceramic and metal neckpieces by Cassandra Pittaway were inspired by cars and fairgrounds. Loved those big bold shapes and colours… reminiscent of automobile style designs in Prada’s S/S 2012 collection.

New Designers part one 2012 -Hannah May Chapman
Intriguing crochet jewellery by Hannah May Chapman echoed body parts and coral forms.

New Designers part one 2012 -Mayra Cunningham
At Kensington and Chelsea College I was drawn towards enamelled acorn jewellery by Mayra Cunningham.

New Designers part one 2012 -Filipa Oliveira

In the One Year On section a host of jewellery designers were displaying their latest designs. Bee inspiration is big in design, as seen in these honeycomb filigree designs by Filipa Oliveira.

New Designers part one 2012 -Nicola Crawford
One for typography lovers: decorative balls by Nicola Crawford revealed a seething mass of letters on closer inspection.

New Designers part one 2012 -Harriet Knightley
Harriet Knightley‘s colourful anodised rings were inspired by 60s colours and shapes.

New Designers part one 2012 -Amy Logan Jewellery
Deceptively delicate designs by Amy Logan Jewellery are inspired by the drawn line.

New Designers part one 2012 -Alexandra Tosto
Alexandra Tosto‘s colourful hexagon pipes make appealing pendants, part of the Honeycomb Dream Collection.

New Designers part one 2012 -Kate Gilliland

Kate Gilliland‘s dead animals make curiously beautiful jewellery, especially tiny jaw and spine earrings.

Next: best picks from New Designers 2012 part two: including illustration and product design.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday July 21st, 2012 12:33 pm

Categories ,2012, ,Alexandra Tosto, ,Amy Logan Jewellery, ,Cabbage is King, ,Cassandra Pittaway, ,Filipa Oliveira, ,Gin Durham, ,graduate, ,Hannah May Chapman, ,Harriet Knightley, ,Hayley Dix, ,Honeycomb Dream Collection, ,jewellery, ,Kate Gilliland, ,Kensington and Chelsea College, ,Mayra Cunningham, ,New Designers, ,Nicola Crawford, ,One Year On, ,review

Amelia’s Magazine | Patrick Li: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Patrick Li A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

We profiled Patrick Li as one of our favourite Ones to Watch before London Fashion Week, and now it’s time to catch up with his catwalk show.

ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Patrick Li A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

I had an inkling of what to expect from Ones to Watch stylist Rebekah Roy, who was wearing a collar fashioned out of the glittery material that Patrick Li used through out his gorgeous tailored collection. Models strode out to bassy beats in sleek ponytails and simple heels, some with a covered ankle feature all the better to show off plentiful asymmetric hemlines.

ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Patrick Li A/W 2013 by youdesignme.

A series of predominantly black minidresses were given the layered treatment, with glitter peeking out from beneath sharp diagonal hems, at waists or on the seams that draped across the body. Crushed velvet made an outing in dusky mink and tapered crop trousers were worn with simple white shirts. Box-shouldered coats came in crop, mid and long versions, all eminently wearable. This was a thoroughly modern collection with great sales potential, and I look forward to watching what the talented Patrick Li does next.

ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Susie Lau of Style Bubble checks out Ones to Watch. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/59187830" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/59187830</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 26th, 2013 12:02 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Ones To Watch, ,Patrick Li, ,Rebekah Roy, ,review, ,Style Bubble, ,Susie Lau, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,youdesignme

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Presentation Review: SIBLING

Sibling S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker

I had raced around the Fashion East installations in record time to ensure that I had the opportunity to have enough time to look around the Sibling presentation.

All photography by Matt Bramford

I loved the Sibling A/W 2012 collection so much – a whistle stop tour around East End boozers – that I was a little concerned that they couldn’t top it. Where do take it from there? To the fairground, of course! Entering the room they’d been assigned was a bit like a trip to the fairground itself: a dodgem car was positioned in one corner, in which a mannequin had a TV for a head. It was all part of Sibling’s slightly mysterious world. Enormous illuminated letters spelling out S I B were casually leaning against another wall, and rollercoaster graphics adorned the walls.

Sibling S/S 2012 by Rebecca Strickson

As per usual, there wasn’t a single piece in this new offering that I wouldn’t buy instantly. Each piece evoked childhood memories of fairgrounds and all their kitsch connotations: delicious but dirty food, the rides that satisfy thrill-seekers’ pleasures and the boys you shouldn’t really fancy but who spin you on the waltzers so hard that you occasionally revisit that hot dog that you just ate.

Knitwear was on top form as usual, including cardigans with Argyll prints in edible sorbet colours and the show piece: a grey sweater with a wonderful embroidered pattern, cramming in as much fairground action as possible.

S/S brings an exciting t-shirt range, with LOVE and HATE logos, an I HEART HOT DOG motif, and various other fairground-themed designs. It was a little like fantasy shopping. I particularly like the Waltzer print on a pale blue t-shirt, should anybody wish to buy me a gift.

This season sees the trio collaborate with artist Yuko Kondo, who is responsible for the tattoo-like design on aforementioned sweater and the I HEART HOT DOG logo. Pastel-coloured leopard print sweaters are also a real winner. Playful LOVE and HATE t-shirts are sure to be everywhere come next summer, thanks to this wonderful collection. Last, but not least, I think the denim jacket with Kiss Me Quick emblem speaks for itself.

Sister by Sibling S/S 2012 by Matt Bramford

The weekend before saw the launch of womenswear line SISTER. I didn’t get much time to peruse this offering, such is the jam-packed weekend of London Fashion Week, but what I did see (a girl mounting a carousel horse) had the same fashion-as-fun ethos. Kondo’s emblems, sequins, foil prints and the dreamy leopard-print pattern in similar sorbet tones were the mainstay, proving that Sibling’s unique vision translates from menswear to womenswear with ease.

See highlights from the Sister presentation here:

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday September 30th, 2011 12:43 pm

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Argyll, ,Cozette McCreery, ,Dodgems, ,Fairgrounds, ,Hate, ,Hot dogs, ,Ice Cream, ,Joe Bates, ,Kiss Me Quick, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Love, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Menswear Day, ,Newgen, ,Presentation, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,review, ,Rollercoaster, ,Sibling, ,Sid Bryan, ,Sister by Sibling, ,Somerset House, ,Sorbet, ,T-shirts, ,Waltzer, ,Womenswear, ,Yuko Knodo

Amelia’s Magazine | New Designers 2012 Printed Textiles and Surface Design Graduates: part three

New Designers part one 2012 -Emily de Vale

Here’s my final round up of New Designers 2012 printed textiles and surface design talent. At the Glasgow School of Art Emily de Vale worked in 3D, embroidering laser cut bones onto fabric to create curious patterns.

New Designers part one 2012 -Sylvie McGowan
Sylvie McGowan‘s display of peachy pink, mint and dusky geometric patterns (super popular colourways) was very appealing.

New Designers part one 2012 -Rachel McIndoe
Inspired by microscopic structures, Rachel McIndoe created every kind of exotic texture possible.

New Designers part one 2012 -Laura Turquand Young
A riot of colour from Laura Turquand Young at Heriot-Watt University.

New Designers part one 2012 -Claire Corstorphine
At Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design textile designer and illustrator Claire Corstorphine favoured a fashion forward combination of lilacs with blues and peaches.

New Designers part one 2012 -Amelia Wonders
I was bound to home in on Amelia Wonders by Annie Mae Harris at UCA Rochester (though her own name is pretty wonderful too).

New Designers part one 2012 -Daisy Eloise Hopwood
Daisy Eloise Hopwood had put together a great display to showcase her textile designs.

New Designers part one 2012 -Elisabeth Bostrom
It was great to see Elisabeth Bostrom‘s astonishing hairy textiles, which we have already written about.

New Designers part one 2012 -University of Derby
The University of Derby had an imaginative stand involving laser cut crowns.

New Designers part one 2012 -Louisa Heyworth
At University of Leeds I liked these neon leaves by Louisa Heyworth.

New Designers part one 2012 -Ludicrious Prints

At LCC Rebecca Dinnage‘s Ludicrious Prints mixed imagery from different times and places: polar bears roamed the streets of London in her playful papercut sculpture.

New Designers part one 2012 -Rosemma Hollis
Delicate tree papercutting by Rosemma Hollis created intriguing shadows.

New Designers part one 2012 -Lucy Jones
I liked the painterly retro feel of these bold boats on a print design by Lucy Jones.

New Designers part one 2012 -Maya Nije
A wonderful collar and pantaloon set by Maya Nije.

New Designers part one 2012 -Annita Sung
A stripy golden racoon lounging on a plate by Annita Sung.

There was some marvellous work on the LCC stand, which had been put together in an eclectic manner that echoed the walls of a large country house. See more from LCC surface designers on their tumblr here.

Don’t forget to check in with my first two reports from New Designers 2012 – find the best printed textiles and surface design graduates here and here. Coming up next: craft and jewellery.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday July 20th, 2012 11:16 am

Categories ,2012, ,Amelia Wonders, ,Annie Mae Harris, ,Annita Sung, ,Claire Corstorphine, ,Daisy Eloise Hopwood, ,Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design, ,Elisabeth Bostrom, ,Emily de Vale, ,Glasgow School of Art, ,Heriot-Watt University, ,Laura Turquand Young, ,LCC, ,Louisa Heyworth, ,Lucy Jones, ,Ludicrious Prints, ,Maya Nije, ,New Designers, ,Printed Textiles, ,Rachel McIndoe, ,Rebecca Dinnage, ,review, ,Rosemma Hollis, ,surface design, ,Sylvie McGowan, ,UCA Rochester, ,University of Derby, ,University of Leeds

Amelia’s Magazine | Prophetik: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Prophetik A/W 2012 by Faye West

My fashion week hadn’t got off to the best of starts this season. I skipped day one, and arrived on day two rather worse for wear. I’d been out boozing the night before and hadn’t predicted to feel quite so dreadful the next morning. I managed the Spijkers show, but on my way to see my faces, Teatum Jones, I was spinning out so badly that I just had to return home. Spending the day on the sofa sorted me out, and so I leapt out of bed on a bright, Spring-like morning on Sunday (day three) to catch Prophetik, back after a hiatus last season, to see what Jeff Gardner could offer fashion fans at 10.30am.

Prophetik A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

Seating was easy peasy thanks to the glorious gals at Forward PR, and the show began only a few minutes late. This season, Jeff’s charity of choice is the Lawrence Anthony Foundation, committed to protecting endangered rhinos. Well, I certainly didn’t expect to see photographs of rhinos mutilated at such an early hour, but the provocative images hit home the crisis the species face. It costs £30,000 to protect one rhino for a year – a terrifying amount of money – because the only way to keep them alive is by guarding them 24 hours a day. You can read more about the cause here.

All photography by Matt Bramford

So it was on with the show. True to form, a vibrant violinist opened the proceedings, galavanting up and down the catwalk as she played. A live band then accompanied music that blasted from the sound system and the first model appeared.

This collection was called ‘Courtly Love‘, which for a brief moment made me imagine Prophetik‘s staple frocks with Courtney Love-esque make-up. Alas, this wasn’t the case. The theme was more of a reference to Princess Grace, archetypal dandies and an age-old way of dressing reinvented with a surge of modernity. The collection brought Prophetik‘s inimitable style back to the catwalk – romance, drama and sophistication neatly packaged into one collection.

Prophetik A/W 2012 by Gilly Rochester

Layers of lace were built up on dresses, blouson sleeves met with tight cuffs, swooping necklines were decorated with ruffled trims and sashes around waists provided flattering silhouettes.

This season saw a shorter hemline on some pieces that came as a bit of a surprise; I’m used to Jeff’s floor-sweeping numbers but cuter frocks cut above the knee made the collection seem more wearable and playful.

Menswear was exemplary as per: this season brought cropped tuxedos with jazzy gold buttons and baggy knits; pillow-shaped sleeves appeared on shirts. I spent more time than was necessary fancying two frock coats, the first with beautiful embroidery that looked like a V&A exhibit, the second made from luxurious velvet with heavy brocade detailing.

I don’t see myself hanging around Bethnal Green in either, but I’ve since fantasised about wearing the latter around the house, pretending I’m from another era.

Prophetik A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

The finale created gasps across the room: a dress, black on bottom, white on top, featured one of Jeff’s grandmother’s original blankets (he must be running out) covered in black feathers – a real red carpet number if ever I saw one; one that will likely have Livia Firth on the phone faster than you can say green carpet. Gasps of another kind came when Whitney Houston’s ‘I Wanna Dance With Somebody’ emerged from the speakers – an unorthadox choice at a Prophetik show, but one that had guests bouncing up and down in their seats.

Finale at Prophetik A/W 2012 by Faye West

While Prophetik isn’t my favourite type of fashion – I prefer the more contemporary, print-based designers – I’m never disappointed, as I’m sure the hopeless romantics won’t be either.

Written by Matt Bramford on Thursday February 23rd, 2012 7:09 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,AW12, ,catwalk, ,Claire Kearns, ,Courtly Love, ,Dandy, ,fashion, ,Faye West, ,Forward PR, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Jeff Garner, ,Lawrence, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Prophetik, ,review, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Whitney Houston, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Presentation Review: U.Mi-1

U.Mi-1 S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins

Walking through the hallowed halls of the Freemasons’ building, salve I couldn’t help but think I was actually appearing in an episode of BBC One’s Spooks. Heals clip-clopped on marble flooring, cialis 40mg echoing around the grandiose interior, help darkened wood, glass cabinets filled with associated paraphernalia. I couldn’t shake the feeling I was actually there to meet with the Home Secretary; that Harry Pearce was lingering somewhere in the shadows. He wasn’t, of course, he’s fictional; and I was dressed *way* too good to be doing such silly business as saving the world from terrorists.

Instead, for this presentation by menswear label U.Mi-1, the room we were in was filled not with MI5 Suits, but with boys wearing oversized-blazers, and girls who all seemed to have more-hair-than-clothes; all clutching man-bags or purses, cameras, notepads and complimentary herb-infused juice drinks. I’ve no idea why they were ‘herb-infused’. One assumes it was to give the idea that they were laced with vodka. It worked.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Upstairs, on the first floor, in the room we had converged in, was a presentation that felt more like a piece of theatre than it did a fashion show. Divided into two rooms, the first was lit only by the light from a projector on the wall; while the over-zealous pouring of the aforementioned juice drinks gave a heavy, over-burdened incense-like smell to the proceedings.

U-Mi.1 S/S 2012 by Rukmunal Hakim

The projector reel showed images two models at one time against a white wall. Standing side by side, the two boys would interact, not so much with each other but with their clothes: laughing as they pulled at button holes, braces, hemlines and creases, before changing to two new boys in two new outfits.

In the second, brighter room, the same models were present, only this time in the flesh and frozen: scattered across the back of the room to create a tableau of gorgeous fellas. This only heightened the theatricality of the event, thanks in part to the fact that the growing crowd (us included) were standing around the models as if there were a barrier between us and them: them on a stage, us an audience.

It wasn’t until, as we pulled out our camera, easily the biggest one there (size matters), that some man with a clipboard informed us we could get closer and the rigidness of the event shifted into something more real: journalists writing notes, models moving from one statuesque pose to another. And we lead the way, pioneers that we are. We twice contemplating striking a frozen pose in the centre of the room, hoping that revellers of the collection might confuse us for an eighth model.

The collection on offer was mostly made up of muted colours and pastel shades, simple lines and classic cuts. At one point I saw a girl jot down The Great Gatsby as a footnote, but she’d obviously never read F. Scott Fitzgerald‘s classic: these boys weren’t Jay Gatsby, they were the boys in Brideshead, dipped in sepia tones and burnt sienna, like something from a Sofia Coppola movie. Seams had been piped in contrasting colours, discreet checks were teamed with pale pastels and styled with thick-rimmed glasses and brown leather loafers.

Outside, still caught up in the spring-like warmth of the collection, my PA duties to Matt Bramford had drawn to a close. I could’ve lingered all day, only he then actually started calling me Alex Forrest (Glenn Close in Fatal Attraction) and I had to bid adieu to Fashion Week for another year; all Brideshead illusions truly shattered.

Written by Matt Buttell on Monday September 26th, 2011 2:39 pm

Categories ,Alex Forest, ,Brideshead Revisited, ,checks, ,F. Scott Fitzgerald, ,Fatal Attraction, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Glenn Close, ,Gozi, ,Harry Pearce, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,MenswearSS12, ,MI5, ,Piping, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Rukmunal Hakim, ,S/S 2012, ,Sofia Coppola, ,Spooks, ,Suits, ,tailoring, ,The Great Gatsby, ,U.Mi-1, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Amelia’s Magazine | New Designers 2012 Printed Textiles and Surface Design Graduates: part two

New Designers part one 2012 -Phillippa Copping
Following on from my first review of printed textiles and surface design graduates at New Designers 2012, here’s my second pick of the student work. At Cleveland College of Art and Design bright geometric patterns by Phillippa Copping reigned supreme. I wasn’t surprised to learn that she has interned with Zandra Rhodes, whose influence was clear.

New Designers part one 2012 -Robyn Taylor
Robyn Taylor had fun with embroidered fashion illustrations.

New Designers part one 2012 -Holly Stevens
Crazy robots with 3D embellishment sprung out of graph paper in these interactive wallpaper designs for children by Holly Stevens.

New Designers part one 2012 -Tori Arrighi
At Edinburgh College of Art Tori Arrighi mixed fractal patterns with bold swipes of bright colour.

New Designers part one 2012 -Gillian Boyd
Gillian Boyd is an acoustic textile designer who designers decorative panels for maximum sound absorption.

New Designers part one 2012 -Danielle Lunn
At University of Bolton Danielle Lunn embroidered curious patterns that looked like sea creatures created in the style of Indian folk art.

New Designers part one 2012 -Emma Mcvan
Emma Mcvan mixed photorealist imagery with abstract design to great effect.

New Designers part one 2012 -Velvet Jade

The fabulously named Velvet Jade mixed vibrant geometrics with 3D rosettes.

New Designers part one 2012 -Viktoriya Zarvanska
At UCLAN oversized squirrel and deer designs were attracting a lot of attention on Viktoriya Zarvanska‘s very busy stand.

New Designers part one 2012 -Jane Bridges
The English Country Garden Collection by Jane Bridges featured some beautiful modern acidic and plum colour combinations.

New Designers part one 2012 -Shayna Begum

At UEL I was immediately drawn to modern woodland designs from nature lover Shayna Begum: read an interview with her by Kate Lynch here. Her love of Timorous Beasties is evident.

New Designers part one 2012 -Netanya Barber
At Northbrook College in Sussex Netanya Barber mixed photo real birds and flowers with intricate wirework patterns.

New Designers part one 2012 -Melody Ross
At the Arts Uni College in Bournemouth Melody Ross went wild with neon laser cut acrylic for interiors products.

New Designers part one 2012 -Alice Skipp
At Swansea Metropolitan layered stencil designs by Alice Skipp were applied with great joy across plates, tea cosies, teatowels.

New Designers part one 2012 -Sam Fenn-Johnston
Retro inspired upholstery by Sam Fenn-Johnston was showcased on old fashioned style arm chairs in the One Year On section.

Third review of printed textiles and surface design graduates at New Designers 2012 coming soon!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday July 20th, 2012 9:53 am

Categories ,2012, ,Acoustic textiles, ,Acrylic, ,Alice Skipp, ,Arts Thread, ,Arts Uni College in Bournemouth, ,Cleveland College of Art and Design, ,Danielle Lunn, ,Edinburgh College of Art, ,Emma Mcvan, ,Gillian Boyd, ,Holly Stevens, ,Jane Bridges, ,Kate Bell, ,Kate Lynch, ,Melody Ross, ,Netanya Barber, ,New Designers, ,Northbrook College, ,One Year On, ,Phillippa Copping, ,Printed Textiles, ,review, ,Robyn Taylor, ,Sam Fenn-Johnston, ,Shayna Begum, ,Stunt Giraffe, ,surface design, ,Sussex, ,Swansea Metropolitan, ,The English Country Garden Collection, ,Timorous Beasties, ,Tori Arrighi, ,UCLan, ,UEL, ,University of Bolton, ,Velvet Jade, ,Viktoriya Zarvanska, ,Zandra Rhodes

Amelia’s Magazine | Prose Studio: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Prose A/W 2012 by Joe Waldron.

As regular readers will know we’ve been fans of Prose Studio for awhile, so it was very exciting to see them showing once more at London Fashion Week this season – a decision based on the opportunity to show alongside some of the most exciting upcoming designers in fashion, a place that suits Prose well. Designer Miriam Lehle is based in Germany but after an appearance with On/Off in 2009 she returned to the UK last season to show at the main stands in Somerset House. For A/W 2012 she took to the catwalk once more with Fashion Scout.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Prose A/W 2012 by Natalie Lines.

Each season Miriam Lehle explores a new and very different theme, but a core love of baggy, boxy shapes and unorthodox textures remains essential to each collection. This time around she focused on squared-off shapes in muted tones of midnight, ochre and chestnut, which were adorned with different types of contrasting layered fringing – a look which worked especially well on a round shouldered caplet that was worn with sumptuous harem-style burnt orange velvet trousers.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Prose A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

The collection was teamed with sensible lace up shoes, slicked back wet-look hair, strong brows and red lips. A dash of mustard yellow brought a light lift and the exposed back on an asymmetric dress lent a sexy edge to an otherwise slightly androgynous collection.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Prose A/W 2012 by Sara Pateraki.

Tasselled fringing came in stiffened patent leather, which also appeared as a patchwork material for skirts and trousers. This was juxtaposed against yarn based fringing which created a softer, almost fluffy, silhouette in vertical and horizontal stripes.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

A favourite garment was a marbled red silk dress which featured the boxy relaxed shape that Prose is known for – and interesting peaked ruffles on the shoulders that echoed the high gathered waist.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

The A/W 2012 collection from Prose was confident and polished: without a doubt Miriam Lehle will have converted a whole new army of fans.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Prose A/W 2012 by Kristina Grundberg.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/37133434" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/37133434</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday February 29th, 2012 10:32 am

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Barb Royal, ,catwalk, ,Claire Jones, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Joe Waldron, ,Kristina Grundberg, ,lfw, ,Miriam Lehle, ,Natalie Lines, ,Prose Studio, ,review, ,Sara Pateraki

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Presentation Review: Teatum Jones

Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Faye West

On Friday afternoon I took myself up the Strand to the RSA‘s grand London venue, viagra 60mg a little past the Savoy. It’s a bloody nightmare trying to get up the Strand these days. You’re either barging tourists out of the way with your London Fashion Week tote bag or stopping to give them directions. I hate that Londoners have such a mean reputation when it comes to tourists so I always smile and say ‘yes, the Ly-SEE-um is just that way, m’love’ and save my expletives until they’re out of earshot.

Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Emma Block

I was heading for a presentation by Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones – collectively Teatum Jones, who promise ‘effortless chic‘ and ‘contemporary elegance.‘ Well, they certainly served up heaps of this on Friday. I first heard about them six months ago when they were listed on the BFC’s emerging talent roster, so it was exciting to finally get the chance to check out their wares in person.

It’s so easy to get a presentation wrong. This miserable age of austerity that we’re currently living in has forced many designers to abandon the catwalk in favour of a static set-up, but you never really know what you’re going to get. Sometimes it’s a film screening, sometimes one model stooped and forlorn in a corner while people ‘yah, yah‘ around him or her. This was a good presentation, thankfully; an amazing one, in fact. I knew it was going to be good when a gentleman who wouldn’t look out of place on a runway thrust me a vodka martini. At last: a big ol’ drink.

The RSA‘s venue is quite something. Its Georgian interior couldn’t have been a better match for this stunning collection of exquisite clothes. The room where the presentation was held had huge ceilings, enormous fireplaces and period features; the pastel colours of the walls appearing as if they had been painted especially for the occasion. A mock sort of sitting room-like set had been constructed in the centre, and people filed around this voyeuristic set-up in practical silence. A soundtrack of the Flamingos’ I Only Have Eyes For You (the second time I’d heard that song that day – TREND ALERT) and Patsy Cline’s Three Cigarettes in an Ashtray almost made me weep – saved from tears only by the feeling of excitement that this design duo had got it so right.

Illustrator/contributor extraordinaire Emma Block and her live fashion illustrations

I should probably stop banging on about the bloody room and talk about the clothes, right? Well, they were equally flawless. A handful of models, positioned on a central island, moved slowly around various pieces of furniture in flowing frocks with huge trains. Each frock featured discreet digital prints in gorgeous muted pastel colours, and the models were styled with a hint of 1920s/30s glamour – full red lips, tight curls. They didn’t smile much (that would have ruined it) but as they playfully crept around the set, an imposing chandelier hanging above, it actually looked like they were enjoying themselves. Result!

Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Faye West

These dresses were expertly cut and the craftsmanship was faultless – that’s another good thing about a presentation, it sorts the men from the boys (I mean, it exposes poorly made garments). Layers of fabric had been fused together in a slightly oddball fashion but this provided a perfect marriage of classic and contemporary. In their own words, there’s ‘structure and fluidity‘. I couldn’t have put it better myself, which is why I copied it.

A row of static mannequins along the window edge displayed the rest of the collection – more dreamy yet subtle colours mixed with vivid yellows. These pieces showed Teatum Jones‘ commercial flair, but the winners were the show pieces, best viewed with a martini through a fake window.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Written by Matt Bramford on Sunday September 18th, 2011 1:43 pm

Categories ,1920s, ,1930s, ,Catherine Teatum, ,Emma Block, ,fashion, ,Faye West, ,London Fashion Week, ,Martinis, ,Matt Bramford, ,pastels, ,Patsy Cline, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Rob Jones, ,rsa, ,S/S 2012, ,Savoy, ,Strand, ,Teatum Jones, ,The Flamingos, ,Trace PR, ,Trace Publicity, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | New Designers 2013 Jewellery: The Best Graduate Designers

Annie Lucilla wearing her etched earrings
New Designers show 2013-Annabelle Lucilla
I always discover a huge number of brilliant new jewellery designers at the New Designers exhibition, and this year was no exception. Firstly, at the One Year On section I was blown away by a wonderful display from Annabelle Lucilla, who recognised me from twitter – always a strange but rather lovely thing when it happens! This multiple award winning jewellery designer is currently a resident of Cockpit Arts, thanks to a recent bursary. I love the way that she uses her own illustrations to create unique statement pieces; here she is wearing a pair of her beautiful etched dangly earrings in front of an illustration that features in one of her pieces.

Silicone jewels by Isabelle Busnell in oneyearon
I was also drawn to this beautiful display by Isabelle Busnell, who recreates traditional designs such as cameos in deceptively flexible silicone.

beaded knitted fringed necklaces by HannaBalloo
At Central Saint Martins Hannah Newell, who designs under the name Hanna Baloo, created these immensely cute beaded, knitted and fringed necklaces featuring ghostly letters.

Simona Kubertavivacuite - jewellery
New Designers show 2013-Simona Kubertaviciute
This year there were were loads of designs inspired by lifeforms found in the oceans, which seems to be an ongoing trend in jewellery. Simona Kubertaviciute from Bucks New University was inspired by sea creatures that overtake shipwrecks and other underwater manmade structures. She works with brass and Fimo to create peculiarly shaped gems that look oxidised and eroded, as if they have indeed just been hauled out of the ocean.

New Designers show 2013-clio may davies
I’m a sucker for a good dangly earring, and love these organic offerings from the Crustacean Collection by Clio May Davies, a graduate of UCA Rochester.

New Designers show 2013-alma sophia
Alma Sophia was inspired by the tactile feel of jewellery to create her Touch ring collection, which come with convex or concave fronts that are meant to be explored by the thumb.

New Designers show 2013-Kirsty Isla Nicholson oversized rings
Giant white chocolate pearls by Kirsty Isla Nicholson
At the University of Dundee Kirsty Isla Nicholson had created an extremely imaginative collection working in unorthodox materials and unexpected scales: giant white chocolate pearls and oversized rings inspired by the construction of earring backs and jewellery boxes were particularly clever. Her beautifully made 187 rings wall installation asked visitors to donate to the Cystic Fibrosis Trust in exchange for a ring.

New Designers show 2013 fay mcglashan
Fay McGlashan worked in porcelain and metal to create large pendants that mimic the carapaces of mottled and ridged insects.

New Designers show 2013-Mirka Janeckova
The deepwater inspiration continued with the White Collection from Mirka Janeckova, featuring rings that seemed to sprout like exotic corals in all directions.

Oversized gold flock ring by Nadia Deen
This oversized Alien gold and brass flock ring was made by Nadia Deen at The Cass.

Olivia Creber beard jewellery for men
Edinburgh College of Art graduate Olivia Creber‘s Veni, Veci beard jewellery for men was used to style an award winning catwalk show earlier this year. These certainly make an unusual and eye-catching accessory that push the traditional definition of jewellery, so it’s no surprise to discover that she begins an MA at the Royal College of Art this year.

New Designers show 2013-Caitlin Gregory-Thomas

At the well appointed stand for the Jewellery Futures course in Birmingham Caitlin Gregory-Thomas was inspired by the plight of dairy cows to create this highly unusual collection of pins and bracelets in metal and flock. The centrepiece is a jelly mould character with cow hooves, guaranteed to prompt questions of the wearer. Check out CVGT Jewellery here.

Over in the stands supporting different disciplines I discovered Rosalind Clara Bryan‘s delicate geometric collection, which is supported by a super professional website.

On a more conceptual front Karl Robert Gundstrom put together this beautiful display of jewellery made with expanding foam. He will be pursuing his fine art career in Berlin.

I’ve still got 3D wall art, ricrac madness, ceramics and crafts to cover… and that’s just from the first New Designers exhibition…

*Many of these images first appeared on my instagram feed, where you can view my pick of design graduates as I find them.*

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday July 19th, 2013 11:34 am

Categories ,187 rings, ,2013, ,Alien, ,Alma Sophia, ,Annabelle Lucilla, ,Birmingham, ,Bucks New University, ,Caitlin Gregory-Thomas, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Clio May Davies, ,Cockpit Arts, ,Crustacean Collection, ,CVGT Jewellery, ,Cystic Fibrosis Trust, ,Edinburgh College of Art, ,Fay McGlashan, ,Fimo, ,Hanna Baloo, ,Hannah Newell, ,Isabelle Busnell, ,jewellery, ,Jewellery Futures, ,Karl Robert Gundstrom, ,Kirsty Isla Nicholson, ,Mirka Janeckova, ,Nadia Deen, ,New Designers, ,Olivia Creber, ,One Year On, ,review, ,Rosalind Clara Bryan, ,Royal College of Art, ,Simona Kubertaviciute, ,The Cass, ,Touch, ,UCA Rochester, ,University of Dundee, ,Veni Veci, ,White Collection

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