Amelia’s Magazine | UCA Rochester: Graduate Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Graduate collection by Elisabeth Boström

UCA Rochester is always a hot ticket at Graduate Fashion Week. It usually takes a late evening slot, so there’s always a more ritzy atmosphere. This year was no different.

Graduate collection by Emily Houghton

When I joined the queue I was pleased to note that I was maybe 10 or 15 attendees from the front. ‘Marvellous’, I thought to myself as I politely waited. As the door-opening grew closer, one by one various other press, sponsors and ‘VIPs’ did that hilarious thing that only fashion people know how to do. I marvel every time it happens. It’s the Magical Fashion Queue Jumper. Here’s a quick step-by-step guide:

1. Look for somebody you’ve vaguely met once, follow on Twitter, are connected with on LinkedIn, or somebody who looks like somebody you know;
2. Scream ‘HAI darling!‘ at them and swing from their neck with glee;
3. Go a bit red, hoping nobody has noticed you’ve been incredibly rude and pushed in;
Voila – you’ve jumped the queue.

Sigh. Somehow I don’t think I’ll ever be able to do it. It’s just so impolite. I’d tell you how I then got kicked off the front row but managed to get back onto it with half a dozen seats going begging, but then I’d just be a big moaner.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Anyway, yes, back to the show. An usual start unfolded – I’d already noticed that there were a sole pair of shoes and a selection of menswear on hangers to the right of the stage. The lights dimmed and a model appeared wearing white underclothes. Two men wearing white lab coats, I presume students, dressed the man in silence. As soon as he was dressed and styled, the lights shone brightly, the music pounded, and the tattoo-clad model stormed the catwalk.

Here’s a round-up of my favourites from UCA Rochester:

Daniel Holliday

It was Daniel’s model who was dressed live on stage and opened the show. It was a strong menswear opener, with digital print shirts, tweed blazers with contrasting sleeves and flashes of neon green juxtaposed with a dark colour palette.

Lucy Mellor

Graduate collection by Lucy Mellor

Lucy’s collection was our first taste of Rochester womenswear. Fitted knee-length dresses were sculptured at the shoulders and hips, creating futuristic silhouettes, embellished with organic felt shapes.

Richard Sun

Graduate collection by Richard Sun

The future according to Richard Sun sees women wearing utilitarian geometric dresses accessorised with wire cages. Inspired by Hong Kong architecture, this was an innovative fashion vision.

Olivia Salmon

Graduate collection by Olivia Salmon

Juxtaposed to Richard’s fashion future came Olivia Salmon‘s playful collection of cute floral dresses. Silhouettes were soft and prints were hand-drawn – a welcome break from digital. Models were styled with clusters of flowers in this uplifting collection.

Olivia Salmon graduate collection by Sandra Contreras

Emily Houghton

Graduate collection by Emily Houghton

Emily also took her inspiration from architecture – notably Richard Rogers‘ ‘inside-out’ Lloyds building. Visible seams and outer pocket bags explore this concept – a dark colour palette with some flashes of neon and some elements of sportswear made this a really polished collection.

Annie Mae Harris

Blink and you might miss Annie Mae’s attention to detail in this fusion of print and materials. Soft silks and organzas were treated with hypnotic, organic swirls that elegantly floated by. Leather accessories, including a headpiece embellished with gold teeth, added an extra dimension.

Jenny Prismall

Graduate collection by Jenny Prismall

War Horse was the inspiration for Jenny’s womenswear and was one of my favourite collections of the week. Military cuts were given a chicer treatment. Leather straps like horses reins were carefully added to garments creating a luxurious look with a hint of kink, whilst also sculpting silhouettes. Oh, and the digital-print sunset – just wonderful.

Marianne Sørensen

Graduate collection by Marianne Sørensen

Marianne presented a beautiful all-black collection teaming luxury materials with dynamic cuts: one of the most polished presentations of the week.

Callum Burman
Callum’s modern Miami Vice male had me squealing. Influence had come from the TV show and the Art Deco buildings of Miami (love). Cropped-sleeve shirts, short shorts, oversized sweater and skinny trousers all in a range of cool pastel colours. It was fun, relaxed and infinitely wearable.

Sharon Osborne
Sharon presented a beautiful collection of flattering, body-hugging dresses of varying glamorous lengths. Ruching around the necks and into seams was used to dazzling effect, with cloud-like forms printed onto the garments. But it was Sharon’s transparent perspex accessories that really caught my eye; beautiful, organic shapes creeping up models’ arms.

Elisabeth Boström

Graduate collection by Elisabeth Boström

Elisabeth’s offering was another contender for my favourite collection of this year’s graduates. Sweeping frocks in gorgeous silks featured digital streaks of varying bright colours fused with natural browns. Elisabeth was inspired by natural vs. unnatural, effortlessly blending the two together. Some dresses were embellished with hair for a fashion-forward look with maximum appeal.

Emma Beaumont

Graduate collection by Emma Beaumont

I wasn’t at all surprised to see Emma’s collection nominated for the Gold Award at the Gala ceremony the following evening. Inspired by harvest, Emma’s feminine cuts and adept use of the most visually stimulating materials provided a real treat. I loved the aesthetic appeal of the opening woven coat and a gold woven dress.

Until next year, UCA Rochester!

Categories ,2012, ,Annie Mae Harris, ,Callum Burman, ,catwalk, ,Daniel Holliday, ,Elisabeth Bostrom, ,Emily Houghton, ,Emma Beaumont, ,fashion, ,GFW, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Jenny Prismall, ,knitwear, ,Lucy Mellor, ,Marianne Sorensen, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Olivia Salmon, ,review, ,Richard Sun, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Sharon Osbourne, ,UCA Rochester, ,University, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | New Designers 2012 Printed Textiles and Surface Design Graduates: part three

New Designers part one 2012 -Emily de Vale
New Designers part one 2012 -Emily de Vale
Here’s my final round up of New Designers 2012 printed textiles and surface design talent. At the Glasgow School of Art Emily de Vale worked in 3D, embroidering laser cut bones onto fabric to create curious patterns.

New Designers part one 2012 -Sylvie McGowan
Sylvie McGowan‘s display of peachy pink, mint and dusky geometric patterns (super popular colourways) was very appealing.

New Designers part one 2012 -Rachel McIndoe
Inspired by microscopic structures, Rachel McIndoe created every kind of exotic texture possible.

New Designers part one 2012 -Laura Turquand Young
A riot of colour from Laura Turquand Young at Heriot-Watt University.

New Designers part one 2012 -Claire Corstorphine
At Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design textile designer and illustrator Claire Corstorphine favoured a fashion forward combination of lilacs with blues and peaches.

New Designers part one 2012 -Amelia Wonders
I was bound to home in on Amelia Wonders by Annie Mae Harris at UCA Rochester (though her own name is pretty wonderful too).

New Designers part one 2012 -Daisy Eloise Hopwood
Daisy Eloise Hopwood had put together a great display to showcase her textile designs.

New Designers part one 2012 -Elisabeth Bostrom
It was great to see Elisabeth Bostrom‘s astonishing hairy textiles, which we have already written about.

New Designers part one 2012 -University of Derby
The University of Derby had an imaginative stand involving laser cut crowns.

New Designers part one 2012 -Louisa Heyworth
At University of Leeds I liked these neon leaves by Louisa Heyworth.

New Designers part one 2012 -Ludicrious Prints
New Designers part one 2012 -Ludicrious Prints
At LCC Rebecca Dinnage‘s Ludicrious Prints mixed imagery from different times and places: polar bears roamed the streets of London in her playful papercut sculpture.

New Designers part one 2012 -Rosemma Hollis
Delicate tree papercutting by Rosemma Hollis created intriguing shadows.

New Designers part one 2012 -Lucy Jones
I liked the painterly retro feel of these bold boats on a print design by Lucy Jones.

New Designers part one 2012 -Maya Nije
A wonderful collar and pantaloon set by Maya Nije.

New Designers part one 2012 -Annita Sung
A stripy golden racoon lounging on a plate by Annita Sung.

There was some marvellous work on the LCC stand, which had been put together in an eclectic manner that echoed the walls of a large country house. See more from LCC surface designers on their tumblr here.

Don’t forget to check in with my first two reports from New Designers 2012 – find the best printed textiles and surface design graduates here and here. Coming up next: craft and jewellery.

Categories ,2012, ,Amelia Wonders, ,Annie Mae Harris, ,Annita Sung, ,Claire Corstorphine, ,Daisy Eloise Hopwood, ,Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design, ,Elisabeth Bostrom, ,Emily de Vale, ,Glasgow School of Art, ,Heriot-Watt University, ,Laura Turquand Young, ,LCC, ,Louisa Heyworth, ,Lucy Jones, ,Ludicrious Prints, ,Maya Nije, ,New Designers, ,Printed Textiles, ,Rachel McIndoe, ,Rebecca Dinnage, ,review, ,Rosemma Hollis, ,surface design, ,Sylvie McGowan, ,UCA Rochester, ,University of Derby, ,University of Leeds

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