Amelia’s Magazine | Josh & Nicol: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Josh & Nicol LFW A/W 2013 by Sam Parr
Josh & Nicol, LFW A/W 2013 by Sam Parr

Somewhere over the rainbow, namely at Charing Cross Hotel, Josh & Nicol presented their LFW A/W 2013 collection. The Promise of the Rainbow is a colourful collection with inspirations including birds of paradise and the Wizard of Oz. A distinctive rainbow-style fabric dominated the collection and in my mind, the pieces are split into two camps: black, elegant, gothic garments contrasting against bright, green-palette, rainbow prints with a tribal feel. The black pieces sport conspicuous zips with sections of floaty, translucent fabric. In some of the garments these two different threads meet and the fresh, colourful print is mixed with the sexier black, tying the pieces together.

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013

Held in the Betjeman Suite of the Charing Cross Hotel, the venue was, although a day too late, Valentine’s Day appropriate, with candles leading the way through the corridor and up the stairs. Named after a former Poet Laureate the room came complete with chandeliers, marble pillars and a sculpted ceiling, which provided a stark contrast to the goth-rock feel of the black garments and the flamboyant prints of the rainbow inspired togs that made up this collection.

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013 by Louise Smith
Josh & Nicol, LFW A/W 2013 by Louise Smith

Josh & Nicol is a luxury fashion brand established in 2010, Ufuoma Ekpecham is the brands’ Creative Director and believes that “there is nothing more beautiful and sophisticated than a woman that dresses to suit her body shape.” The designer went on to start the label after winning the Planet Africa Red Carpet Dress Challenge in Toronto.

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013

There is free champagne, orange juice and wine, which is handed to me in my front row seat. After a day of queues and bobbing heads blocking my view, this is a welcome change. The show starts late, and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly. I chat to a friend of the designer who has made her way all the way from Brussels to attend, and will leave the next day. This show feels much more personal to me, close-knit friends and family seems to make up the audience, as well as journalists.

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013

There are references to Baum‘s The Wonderful Wizard of Oz in the program and although initially I couldn’t see any sign of Dorothy, the yellow brick road, or red glittery pumps, I speculate that the collection has drawn inspiration from other elements of the story. The green print is perhaps a nod to the Emerald City and the green-tinted glasses that the characters must wear to enter. If I remember correctly, in the original novel, the Wizard and Dorothy fashion a balloon from green silk, which perhaps could be something the designer has taken inspiration from for the colourful print design. Or maybe, the film version with Judy Garland‘s rendition of Over the Rainbow was part of the inspiration to inject colour and life into the fabrics Either way, this collection whisked me away from the bustling streets of London, like the cyclone whisked away Dorothy. Sadly though, reciting, “there’s no place like home,” didn’t work for me, and after this show finished, I had an hour and a half train journey to get back to Bath, my first day of London Fashion Week over with a colourful and stylish bang.

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013 by Louise Smith
Josh & Nicol, LFW A/W 2013 by Louise Smith

All photography by Jessica Cook

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Betjeman Suite, ,bright prints, ,Catwalk review, ,Charing Cross, ,gothic, ,Jessica Cook, ,Josh & Nicol, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Smith, ,Sam Parr, ,Tribal, ,Ufuoma Ekpecham

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Amelia’s Magazine | British Fashion Designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia A/W 2011: Louise Gray

Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Abi Heyneke
Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Abi Heyneke.

For almost the entire trip to Russia I was convinced that Louise Gray was another girl in the Fashion East entourage… it was only when she stepped out to take her bow on the catwalk that I realised she was the very tiny blonde girl in sky high heels. Louise is a textile designer at heart, remedy and her colourful vision has attracted an almost unfeasible amount of hype in recent years: I tried to see her show this season at London Fashion Week but arrived too late to get into the tiny On/Off venue. This was a great way to see her show in a slightly less pressurised arena, site in front of an audience who might not be quite so frantically enthusiastic about her amazing technicolour palette.

Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly the Eggs
Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly the Eggs.

Louise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 by Abi Heyneke
Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Abi Heyneke

Her A/W 2011 collection lived up to expectations: all clashing primary tartans and devilishly playful spotty make up which had been slightly toned down from her London show. The first model strode down the catwalk with an amused smile upon her lips as well she might given that she was sporting a metallic blue ruffled shorts suit accessorised with helium heart balloons that drifted above her head. The range encompassed dresses, shirts and mohair coats, all worn with thigh high patent spotty boots. Peel away a few of the garments and there was usually one that could easily be worn alone by someone less daring than the Louise Gray archetype. A lot of fun, but one can only wonder what the much more conservative Russian audience thought of it all. Here’s hoping they went away inspired by the possibilities of what fashion can be.

Louise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryLouise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia Gregory
Louise Gray A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Abi Heyneke
Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Abi Heyneke

Categories ,Abi Heyneke, ,Clashing, ,Fashion East, ,Helium Balloons, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Gray, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, ,Moscow, ,Multi-coloured, ,onoff, ,prints, ,Russia!, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Technicolour, ,textiles

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Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Print.

Holly Fowler CSM Dress by Claire Kearns
Holly Fowler by Claire Kearns.

I’ll always be a print kind of girl – I have a degree in printed textiles after all… and have you seen the way I dress? – but at some of the graduate show stands it seemed that clashing colours had got totally out of control, shop pushing the boundaries of what even I can deal with. On the whole Central Saint Martins students chose to take a more considered approach to print. My favourite work came from Holly Fowler who went a little bit Mary Katrantzou, a little bit Holly Fulton and all out maxi with her stunning oversized jewel prints on long dresses. Absolutely adored these.

Holly Fowler by Michelle Pegrume
Holly Fowler by Michelle Pegrume.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fowler. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I wasn’t so enamoured of Lucie Sutton‘s approach, mixing floral and splashy Oriental influenced prints and colours with a punk aesthetic that paid homage to the last days of Central Saint Martins in its Charing Cross home. The school moves to new premises in Kings Cross soon.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Lucie Sutton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Lucie Sutton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Lucie Sutton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Lucie Sutton photography by Amelia Gregory
Lucie Sutton.

Alfhild Kulper took a pleated and layered approach that could have given him a spot in my earlier blog post but it was his clever use of print that really stood out for me: I loved the way that faces seemed to emerge from the netting of wide skirts.

Alfhild Kulper Netting Dress by Claire Kearns
Alfhild Kulper Netting Dress by Claire Kearns.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Alfhild Kulper photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Alfhild Kulper photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Alfhild Kulper photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Alfhild Kulper photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Alfhild Kulper photography by Amelia Gregory
Alfhild Kulper.

For Annabel Luton owl and feather imagery was combined with earthy tribal colouring in layered outfits of elegant velvet and chiffon that gave a classic feel.

Khrystyna Famenko by Michelle Pegrume
Annabel Luton by Michelle Pegrume.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Annabel Luton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Annabel Luton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Annabel Luton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Annabel Luton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Annabel Luton photography by Amelia Gregory
Annabel Luton.

Ayako Ohori was another who integrated pleats into a more tailored vision, small patches of layered fabric appearing at neck and at waist on some of her tropical hard shouldered dresses with circuit board prints. This was a very strong look with gorgeous matching clutch bags as accessories.

Ayako Ohori Central Saint Martins by Sam Parr
Ayako Ohori by Sam Parr.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ayako Ohori photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ayako Ohori photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ayako Ohori photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ayako Ohori photography by Amelia Gregory
Ayako Ohori. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Of course the overall winner of the catwalk show was also a print student: check out Flaminia Saccucci’s floral printed latex in my earlier blog.

Categories ,80s, ,Alfhild Kulper, ,Annabel Luton, ,Ayako Ohori, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Charing Cross Road, ,Claire Kearns, ,Graduate Shows, ,Holly Fowler, ,Holly Fulton, ,Kings Cross, ,Lucie Sutton, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Maxi dresses, ,Michelle Pegrume, ,Oriental, ,pleats, ,print, ,punk, ,tailored, ,York Hall

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Amelia’s Magazine | Charlotte Taylor: London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Preview

Charlotte Taylor Bonsai Wide Leg Trousers by Gilly Rochester

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Wide Leg Trousers by Gilly Rochester

It was last year that a good friend introduced me to the brilliant and uplifting work of Charlotte Taylor. As I leafed through her A/W 2010 look book, advice I was hooked by the individualism – a collection of stand out, repeated prints, but within a tailored and feminine design. It was a unique combination of tweed, navy and printed penguins, which worked through heritage driven shapes such as capes, shift dresses and swinging hemlines.

Charlotte Taylor Fishermen Skirt and Blouse by Sam Parr

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Fishermen Skirt and Blouse by Sam Parr

I knew I had to get my hands on a ticket to go and see her next show. Charlotte was presenting her S/S 2011 collection as part of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s ‘Ones To Watch’ schedule. A mature transgression was made, but it kept the clear signature established in her first collection. It was quirky, but the English themes of grandma’s and heritage were displaced by a modern feel – bad robots, cut-out panels, younger shapes and a sporty aesthetic. A fresher palette of rust and denim blue sat alongside the yellows and creams from A/W 2010, with the luxurious silks only adding to its appeal.

Impressed and wanting to know more, I asked Charlotte if she would do an interview with me for Amelia’s Magazine. Unfortunately, she had to decline my offer. There were changes in the business, and as it stood, the label was on hold for the immediate future. I was disappointed that this collection would not go into production, and that the label, it appeared, would not continue.

Charlotte Taylor Bee Blouse by Gilly Rochester

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Bee Blouse by Gilly Rochester

So it was with delight that I came across Charlotte’s work again in June this year. Her blog was up and running, and she had produced an A/W 2011 collection. It is a rich splendour of jewel colours and madcap prints, such as ants, elephants, lobsters, and the carried over penguin. The colours clashed, the soft silks were still there, and this time tied up with an exotic feel that was inspired by a trip to Kenya that Charlotte had taken. The label had been stripped back to its signature feature – the prints. Rethought, and redefined, it was great to see the label back and doing business.

Charlotte Taylor Fisherman Shorts by Alejandra Espino

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Fisherman Shorts by Alejandra Espino

From this Friday, Charlotte will be exhibiting her new S/S 2012 collection at London Fashion Week. She let me have a preview of the new range, and answered some of my questions.

Charlotte Taylor is back after a season out. Where have you been, and are you excited to be showing again at London Fashion Week?
Well I didn’t actually take a proper season out… For S/S 2011 we decided not to go forward with production. I felt that the label needed more of an identifiable product and image and that it wasn’t portraying the message that I wanted it to. That’s why I decided to focus on the prints. Hence A/W 2011 was a print and colour frenzie! I decided not to show the collection at fashion week and instead to go around to many of our key retailers and show it in person to the owners and the buyers to get their direct feedback. It was a very useful experience and I also love building relationships with people, emails and telephones are not personable.

I am however really excited about showing at LFW and being back in the buzz of it. Last year I went to look around the BFC space at Somerset House and I had to be escorted around and then out the door. It felt a million miles away!

?What can we expect in the new S/S 2012 collection? What are the influences?
It’s influenced by Japanese Art and Culture, Bee Keeping and Fishing. It’s very colourful and it’s moved on from last season, whilst still retaining a strong Charlotte Taylor look. I would say that it has grown up a fraction, but only a fraction!??

Charlotte Taylor Fisherman Midi Dress by Sam Parr

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Fishermen Midi Dress by Sam Parr

What are the main techniques and materials that you have used in the collection?
Well it’s all print focused again but I’ve used the same prints in different colourways and scales and combined them within the same piece. I have also used Crepe back satin, which has a high shine along side a matt Double Georgette to add further contrast. The silhouettes are simple, elegant and their wearabilty factor is deeply considered. With the bold aspect of the prints, elegant and simple silhouettes are vital.??

You’re going to be launching a collection for Anthropologie USA in October 2011 – can you tell me any more about this?
Yes! We are launching our diffusion line with Anthropologie which will have a slightly lower price point and will be sold in their stores in the States. It’s a fantastic collaboration as we fit perfectly – both print lovers! They are also a fantastic team and I have complete creative control, which is sometimes not the case in such unities.

Charlotte Taylor Bee Jumpsuit by Alejandra Espino

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Bee Jumpsuit by Alejandra Espino

What else does 2012 hold for Charlotte Taylor?
Well – who knows! But we would love to expand our reach abroad….especially Asia as we feel it could work so well out there. I would also love to expand our product range but I won’t get too specific about that just yet! We do a lot of planning for the business but I try not to plan ahead too much design wise. Who knows what ill be doing this time next year?!?!

Thank you to Charlotte for the sneak peak of the new collection. Charlotte Taylor will be presenting her S/S 2012 collection in Somerset House, at the Exhibition for London Fashion Week, September 16th – 20th 2011.

Categories ,Alejandra Espino, ,Charlotte Taylor, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gilly Rochester, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ones To Watch, ,Sam Parr, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | A Chat With Christina Brodie

she and him cover thumbnail review volume two

I suppose I should let Zooey Deschanel go by now. I was so young at the time, viagra dosage a mumbling, shy teenager with a crappy haircut (admittedly, the hair hasn’t improved much) when I first developed a bit of a pathetic fancy for those big blue eyes of hers – I can’t say my admiration of her looks hasn’t dimmed, admittedly (and somewhat shallowly), but I’ve grown wary of her acting ability. Being typecast is something some, if not most, actors attempt to avoid, yet Zooey thrives on playing what’s referred to in critical circles as the ‘Manic Pixie Dream Girl’ role – a bit kooky, a bit insane, and just a tad an absolute fiction of a person, one who exists in the minds of fevered male youth everywhere. Her purpose is to bring the lead male out of his emotional shell, to embrace life, to seize the day (and, presumably, to act as therapist and counsellor and tissue) – to be, in effect, a nothing of a person but a blank canvas who’s just waiting for a chance to listen to all the moaning and despairing and general torment of the soul that characterises the most privileged demographic group in history, the Young White Western Man of the 21st Century.

So – as her roles keep her locked up in a safe little box, a box that doesn’t allow too much range (even (500) Days of Summer, whilst specifically a film about how real life doesn’t conform to the Manic Pixie Dream Girl stereotype, was hardly a stretch), I’m in danger of losing sight of Zooey Deschanel, Actress. All I will have left is Zooey Deschanel, Attractive Celebrity. Being left with that would just be unfair to her as an individual, considering how lovely she is an all – though let’s not concentrate on how I know this, or how I met her, or how her height disappointed me, or how her strapless dress was perhaps a brave choice for the evening but she rocked it admirably – let’s leave that for now. OK? OK. What we’re talking about today is She & Him’s Volume 2, the second album from the musical collaboration between Zooey and folk singer-songwriter M. Ward. Their first, the aptly-titled Volume 1, was an excellent stab at breathing new air into 60s country-folk, and Volume 2 is a further step forward. What it also does is reaffirm, for little old neurotic me, that Zooey Deschanel is a very ably-talented singer and songwriter. Zooey Deschanel, Artist, if you will.

Halfway through first track ‘Thieves’ and the blueprints from Volume 1 are still there – gentle drumbeats, an electric guitar-line with a lovely country twang, and Zooey’s lilting voice that’s as sweet as a glass of freshly-squeezed fruit juice (I’m an orange man, myself, but other fruits such as banana or kiwi would be acceptable alternatives). It can feel a bit like well-trodden territory, but the compositions are just accomplished enough to avoid this (though, of course, one has to ask how long this formula – and it is a formula – can keep working).

M. Ward still stays mostly in the background, leaving the spotlight to his leading lady, except for a notable appearance on a cover of NRBQ’s ‘Ridin’ In My Car’, here reinterpreted as a duet. The other cover here, the Milton Kellem-penned standard ‘Gonna Get Along Without You Now’, also manages to be reinterpreted in such a way that’s not hugely different to the more memorable versions by singers like Skeeter Davis – things are shifted around only slightly to achieve that She & Him vibe. Zooey’s recurring lyrical theme here is of losing or dumping a man but being the happier for it, so the background hums and ahs on this cover totally fit between the ballad to Californian loving that is ‘Home’ and the filled-with-longing ‘ba-da-da-dum’ chorus on ‘Me and You’.

‘In The Sun’, also a single, fizzes and bumps along thanks to Ward letting his guitar do a little bit more work than on Volume 1 – I think it can be safely said that he’s let himself show a little bit more here. Despite mentioning earlier that, yes, he’s still largely a background figure, the actual music that carries Zooey’s lyrics so delicately is still mostly his work, and there are some more flourishes, a few more touches of individual energy that come peeping through. He’s got a very distinctive husk of a voice, and it would be nice if he could show us a bit more, but, as it is, Zooey still does well on her own. You can hear the smile on her face when she sings, “why do I always want to sock it to you hard?” on ‘Over and Over Again’ – she plays the role of the strong-willed woman admirably, and these are most determinedly not laments. It’s a sassy album at its heart.

I suppose the main lesson to be learned from She & Him is that soft rock isn’t a terrible sin. Sure, it’s repetitive, but when the basic framework is so enchanting (especially on closer ‘If You Can’t Sleep’, which has a fair shout at being the most beautiful lullabies you’ll hear this year

I suppose I should let Zooey Deschanel go by now. I was so young at the time, buy more about a mumbling, find shy teenager with a crappy haircut (admittedly, pills the hair hasn’t improved much) when I first developed a bit of a pathetic fancy for those big blue eyes of hers – I can’t say my admiration of her looks hasn’t dimmed, admittedly (and somewhat shallowly), but I’ve grown wary of her acting ability. Being typecast is something some, if not most, actors attempt to avoid, yet Zooey thrives on playing what’s referred to in critical circles as the ‘Manic Pixie Dream Girl’ role – a bit kooky, a bit insane, and just a tad an absolute fiction of a person, one who exists in the minds of fevered male youth everywhere. Her purpose is to bring the lead male out of his emotional shell, to embrace life, to seize the day (and, presumably, to act as therapist and counsellor and tissue) – to be, in effect, a nothing of a person but a blank canvas who’s just waiting for a chance to listen to all the moaning and despairing and general torment of the soul that characterises the most privileged demographic group in history, the Young White Western Man of the 21st Century.

So – as her roles keep her locked up in a safe little box, a box that doesn’t allow too much range (even (500) Days of Summer, whilst specifically a film about how real life doesn’t conform to the Manic Pixie Dream Girl stereotype, was hardly a stretch), I’m in danger of losing sight of Zooey Deschanel, Actress. All I will have left is Zooey Deschanel, Attractive Celebrity. Being left with that would just be unfair to her as an individual, considering how lovely she is an all – though let’s not concentrate on how I know this, or how I met her, or how her height disappointed me, or how her strapless dress was perhaps a brave choice for the evening but she rocked it admirably – let’s leave that for now. OK? OK. What we’re talking about today is She & Him’s Volume 2, the second album from the musical collaboration between Zooey and folk singer-songwriter M. Ward. Their first, the aptly-titled Volume 1, was an excellent stab at breathing new air into 60s country-folk, and Volume 2 is a further step forward. What it also does is reaffirm, for little old neurotic me, that Zooey Deschanel is a very ably-talented singer and songwriter. Zooey Deschanel, Artist, if you will.

Halfway through first track ‘Thieves’ and the blueprints from Volume 1 are still there – gentle drumbeats, an electric guitar-line with a lovely country twang, and Zooey’s lilting voice that’s as sweet as a glass of freshly-squeezed fruit juice (I’m an orange man, myself, but other fruits such as banana or kiwi would be acceptable alternatives). It can feel a bit like well-trodden territory, but the compositions are just accomplished enough to avoid this (though, of course, one has to ask how long this formula – and it is a formula – can keep working).

M. Ward still stays mostly in the background, leaving the spotlight to his leading lady, except for a notable appearance on a cover of NRBQ’s ‘Ridin’ In My Car’, here reinterpreted as a duet. The other cover here, the Milton Kellem-penned standard ‘Gonna Get Along Without You Now’, also manages to be reinterpreted in such a way that’s not hugely different to the more memorable versions by singers like Skeeter Davis – things are shifted around only slightly to achieve that She & Him vibe. Zooey’s recurring lyrical theme here is of losing or dumping a man but being the happier for it, so the background hums and ahs on this cover totally fit between the ballad to Californian lovin’ that is ‘Home’ and the filled-with-longing ‘ba-da-da-dum’ chorus on ‘Me and You’.

In The Sun’, also a single, fizzes and bumps along thanks to Ward letting his guitar do a little bit more work than on Volume 1 – I think it can be safely said that he’s let himself show a little bit more here. Despite mentioning earlier that, yes, he’s still largely a background figure, the actual music that carries Zooey’s lyrics so delicately is still mostly his work, and there are some more flourishes, a few more touches of individual energy that come peeping through. He’s got a very distinctive husk of a voice, and it would be nice if he could show us a bit more, but, as it is, Zooey still does well on her own. You can hear the smile on her face when she sings, “why do I always want to sock it to you hard?” on ‘Over and Over Again’ – she plays the role of the strong-willed woman admirably, and these are most determinedly not laments. At its heart this album is about sassiness.

I suppose the main lesson to be learned from She & Him is that soft rock isn’t a terrible sin. Sure, it’s repetitive, but when the basic framework is so enchanting (especially on closer ‘If You Can’t Sleep’, which has a fair shout at being the most beautiful lullabies you’ll hear this year). There’s something comforting about familiarity, and here that comfort comes in spades.

Photograph by Matt Bramford

When Christina Brodie’s luxury glove range popped up in the fashion inbox, this web I knew that I’d like to interview the woman behind these vibrant and unique items. I had no idea what I was letting myself in for, though – the list of activities Christina immerses herself in leaves me breathless.

I arranged to meet Christina for breakfast in Leon at Bankside – it’s pretty early as we both have our day jobs to get to. I order us some drinks and we take a seat, and it’s immediately obvious, as Christina launches into conversation, that we’re going to have a lot to talk about.

I’d like to set Christina and Amelia up on a date – not of the romantic nature, but I think they’d get along like a house on fire. They have a lot in common.

It’s inspirational to meet somebody with such a strong work ethic and a dedication to all they do, and lord knows how Christina finds time to enjoy herself, with so many things on the burner. The fact is, she doesn’t. ‘My social life goes out of the window,’ she tells me, ‘it’s pretty difficult to manage. Although I am pretty organised’ she continues.

Christina doesn’t do collections – she does mini-launches because she doesn’t want to contain herself within the constraints of the fashion cycle. Plus, she’s bursting with ideas. ‘When I design a collection,’ she announces, ‘I already have ideas for the next four or five.’


Illustration by Antonia Parker

Her gloves are vibrant and bold, taking the iconic driving glove and reworking them for 21st century fashion. Using graphic prints, inspired by graffiti and geometry, the gloves boast wings and flaps and are real statement pieces.

Why gloves? Well, I’ll let Christina explain. ‘I experimented with a range of accessories – belts, bags, and so on. I found that gloves haven’t really been explored, so I set my sights on breaking this. I have a fascination for small, delicate things, and I adore soft fabrics.’ Experimenting with the properties of leather is Christina’s forte, and her adoration for graphic and comic art shines through in this particular collection (sorry, mini-collection).

The graphic patterns come from a very familiar place. ‘They’re actually abstractions of my logo,’ she tells me. The collection (sorry, mini-collection – this is getting difficult!) is split into three areas – ‘Super’ ‘Crazy’ and ‘Bow’, which are pretty self explanatory. Elements of each pair of gloves are inspired by all sorts of things. ‘My ideas are spontaneous,’ Christina continues, ‘they’re never logical.’

Who or what inspires Christina? I suggest there’s a hint of Lady Gaga about the gloves. ‘I think she’s necessary,’ Christina states, diplomatically. ‘I think what she does has been around for a while, but it’s great that she’s brought the creativity of Gareth Pugh and others into the mainstream. And I love her bold use of colour – red, black – they’re great.’ Gaga’s exagarrated, bold shapes have been insiraptional to Christina, and it’s these geometric silhouettes that are evident in the, erm, collection (oh, sod it.)

Her favourite designer is Christian Lacroix. ‘I love his use of colour,’ Christina tells me. “I don’t think the British use colour naturally – I think it’s a Northern Europe thing, maybe because of the availability of light. We tend to stick with muted colours. The French and the Spanish use colour so much more effectively.’ She LOVES colour, especially rainbow colours. We chat about the demise of Lacroix’s label. ‘I’ve read that women don’t buy his clothes because of the colours, an to be commercially viable you should use beiges, baby pinks, baby blues,’ she says. I see a serious streak coming. ‘I’m damned if I’m going to mute my colours for commercial viability!’

Christina is glad she isn’t part of a debt-riddled, multi-million pound operation. ‘I read how much debt McQueen‘s label was/is in, and I was astounded,’ she states. ‘I guess with all the hangers-on and marketing, you run up huge costs.’ This is where her relief originates. ‘I like working on my own. While it’s time consuming, I do the marketing and so on myself – so it’s free.’ She likes it this way. ‘I like being involved in every stage. It’s a control thing. It’s precious to me.’

Christina is a classically trained pianist and also trained as a botanical artist, in which she boasts 3 books to her name. She writes music, performs occasionally and has an acoustic album set for release at the end of the month. Yikes! I was fascinated to discover that Christina had met our future King, Prince Charles. ‘He was lovely!’ she remembers. ‘He was very encouraging. He was fascinated by my work’. The art, I presume, not the gloves!

Does Christina see herself as a sort of Gaga-esque fashion/music collaborator? Not really. ‘I like to keep things separate,’ she tells me. ‘It’s not a conscious thing, but my music and fashion tend not to mix.’

She began writing songs seriously about 4-5 years ago, and while she has an admiration for heavily-produced music, it’s a more acoustic sound that appeals to her. ‘There’s an art to writing songs that sound good heavily-produced, and there’s an art to writing songs that sound good acoustically,’ she informs me, ‘and I much prefer the latter’. She doesn’t get chance to listen to music that often, but when she does, she gets out to see it, rather than sticking on a CD. ‘I think to find out what’s going on [in music] you have to go and see it, you have to hear what people are playing’.

When she does listen to music, she adores Kate Bush (whom she’s happy to announce she’s compared to when she performs), Crowded House and Julian Cope, seventies rock band Heart and The Bangles, both of which she remembers listening to at the age of 14 ‘with a HUGE perm!’

With so much going on, I play devil’s advocate, and ask that if she could only explore one of her fields, what it would be. ‘It would be the gloves,’ she reveals quickly. ‘I am really passionate about this at the moment, so I guess it would be these. I feel like I’ve explored all I can with music, and the books!’ She enjoys the new challenges that creating the gloves bring. ‘I do keep one eye on fashion, but at the same time it’s important to keep things personal.’ She continues, ‘I’ve learned that things don’t move at the speed of light, so I’m enjoying this period of self-exploration.’

Christina also digs classical music, particularly the grandiosity of Beethoven, and the Godlike influence of Bach. ‘I don’t see myself as a religious person,’ she tells me, ‘but I like to think that God operates, through everything I do.’

Surely there’s time for some Christina-time? How does she relax? ‘I love to read – especially Dylan Thomas‘ poetry, and I have a new book by Oswald Spengler that I’m looking forward to.’ ‘I’m having some Crash Time this week actually’ she says, relieved. ‘I think you have to, or you burn out.’

Categories ,botany, ,Christina Brodie, ,comic art, ,fashion, ,Gloves, ,Graphic Patterns, ,Lady Gaga, ,leather, ,Leon Bankside, ,Prince Charles

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Amelia’s Magazine | Corrie Nielsen: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Preview Interview

Interview with Corrie Nielsen, Illustration by Rosa ad Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard
Corrie Nielsen S/S 2012 preview by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard.

Fashion designer Corrie Nielsen has been wowing us here at Amelia’s Magazine for a number of seasons so we were very excited to discover that for S/S 2013 she has worked in close partnership with Kew… here she describes how the collaboration came about and what we can expect from the new Kew inspired collection.

I am very excited about your upcoming S/S 2013 show, which was done in conjunction with Kew Gardens: how did this relationship come about?
I knew that I wanted to base the season on plants and flowers, so the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew was the natural first port of call. It is one of my favourite spaces in London. The whole studio went to Kew together and we took countless photos, which are plastered all over the studio walls. My PR, Courtney Blackman, ended up meeting Kew’s Chairman of the Board at an event and if you know her, she makes things happen. The rest is history. They were really excited that my collection would be all about Kew.

Corrie Nielsen Corrie thinking about plants on a bench under a tree at Kew
Corrie Nielsen Peony 038_Pae_dau_ - from KEW ARCHIVE
Your interest in history is well known, how did you take inspiration from the original documentation of Charles Darwin’s journeys, which are stored in the Kew libraries?
After the first studio trip to Kew, I took a secondary trip with my business partners and that’s when we got to explore the seed libraries, browse through Darwin’s original letters, etc. I’m fascinated by the concept of Darwin’s ‘The Origin of the Species’ – seeing his letters was an unbelievable honour. I’ve taken that concept and really explored it by researching actual blueprints of plants and flowers. The complexity is staggering and in tranfering the research into the clothes, I’ve really had to employ serious engineering to some of my more sculpted pieces .

Corrie Nielsen Swarovski Collective by Catherine Moody
Corrie Nielsen S/S 2013 preview illustration by Catherine Moody.

Can we expect to see any other influences from Kew – for example are there any particular seeds, flowers, trees or other plants that have inspired the new collection?
Tulips, peony roses and even the Victorian glass houses of Kew influence the range.

Corrie Nielsen Stairs in a glass house at Kew
Corrie Nielsen One of my favourite shapes at Kew
How do you process this information? eg do you take photos and then create mood boards?
Photos, photos, photos and I study individual specimens. My studio walls are one giant mood board. I also research a lot online for further development once I have the concept in mind.

Corrie mood board
Corrie Nielsen The Peacock
How often have you visited Kew in preparation for this season’s catwalk show? Any particularly fond memories that you can share with us…
I’ve gone a couple of times and had a very friendly experience with one of the garden’s peacocks. Being able to go into the seed libraries and seeing all the varied specimens that Kew works with was staggering.

corrie mood
What kinds of fabrics feature in the new collection and where were they sourced from?
I’m working with a lot of silk: metal-infused silks, gradient silks and cotton and lightweight wool. I source most of my fabrics from France.

Corrie Nielsen Team Corrie Nielsen at Kew
What else can we expect from the show in terms of styling and production?
Rebekah Roy will be styling the show and for a second season, Emma Yeo will be creating headpieces. She’s so talented. AOFM Pro’s Yin Lee is doing the makeup again – I love working with her. She really gets the brand. TONI&GUY are doing the hair and we are working exclusively with M&P Models, so every single model on the catwalk will be from M&P. And lastly, once again my collection will be named after a Medieval Latin word…

Corrie Nielsen by Zulekha Lakeca
Corrie Nielsen by Zulekha Lakeca.

Corrie Nielsen shows at the BFC space on Friday 14th September 2012. After London Fashion Week Corrie Nielsen will be exhibiting in Paris at Vendôme Luxury Tradeshow at Le Meurice Hotel, 75001.

Categories ,AOFM Pro, ,Catherine Moody, ,Charles Darwin, ,Corrie Nielsen, ,Courtney Blackman, ,Emma Yeo, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Kew, ,Le Meurice Hotel, ,M&P Models, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Royal Botanic Gardens, ,The Origin of the Species, ,Vendôme Luxury Tradeshow, ,Yin Lee, ,Zulekha Lakeca

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with fashion designer James Hock


James Hock A/W 2011, viagra illustrated by Jaqueline Kishi

For some time, James Hock has been on our radar as an extraordinary, rising talent. Finally, we got the chance to speak to the fashion designer about his audacious collections, inspirations and Lady Gaga.

James, you recently exhibited your fourth collection for A/W 2011 at London Fashion Week (your third was visited by Amelia). How was that?
Yes I did. Becc from Bloody Gray PR was there to look after everything so I didn’t have to be there every day. But the feedback to the collection has been great. Very exciting.

This collection is entitled ‘Kpixoos Kaabos’. What’s the story?
It’s loosely inspired by Desmond Davis’ 1981 version of ‘Clash of the Titans’, so if anyone is a fan, they should know where KPIXOOS KAABOS pops up in the movie. Having said that, it’s not exactly the actual phrase but it’s something I anglicised.


James Hock A/W 2011, illustrated by Alia Gargum

Initially, you trained as an accountant. When did you fall for fashion and how did you make that transition?
Well, fashion has always been there. Perhaps not in the driving seat at that time but it’s definitely the co-driver and not a passenger that I just picked up. The transition was actually quite natural, it’s a matter of deciding who should be the driver and everything just changes organically.

As with your previous collections, your latest unveiled many wonderful textural contrasts. How do you select materials?
Hmm.. I don’t know. I guess you just do have a rough idea of what you want when you are sketching. And after that, it’s a matter of playing around with the different ideas and materials ‘til they feel right together.

You also continue to experiment with shape, which you began memorably in your first collection, ‘Sleeping with Dali’. How do you negotiate the balance between fashion as art, and wearable clothing?
I think I’m very much still learning to find the balance. It is sometimes too easy to just make something crazy. It does take a lot more to exercise restraint. But I think at the end of the day, you just have to stay true to what you are doing and also to the collection as a whole.


James Hock A/W 2010, illustrated by Karina Järv

Which are your favourite pieces, and why?
Oooh.. that’s a hard question. I have a new favourite piece with every new collection. But I do really like my EZ Cobra Trousers from the Sleeping With Dali collection. I have one in cotton drill with silver zippers and I literally live in them.

Your collection for S/S 2011 is called ‘The Unloved’ and features harlequin clowns. Tell me more!
It was a very emotionally sad collection and I kinda channeled the emotion through the eyes of harlequins, Stancyzk in particular, as painted by Jan Matejko. I think a lot of people see it as very ‘circus’ which it isn’t at all. To me, the collection was very lonely, very restrained and very regal.   

The name you choose for each season is highly evocative. To what extent do you create a backstory and how does that originate?
Every collection has a story and journey. It usually starts with an idea that could come from anywhere and anything. And then it’s a matter of exploring the idea and finding your narrative and creating your ending. It’s very much like writing a book I imagine.

Do you ‘revisit’ previous collections before starting anew, or are you keen to achieve something entirely different every time?
For me every new collection in a way is a re-action to the last. I don’t think I ever set out to  achieve something entirely different but after working on a collection for many many hours, you just kinda naturally want to try something else. It would be quite mundane otherwise.

Say I’m wearing one of your designs. How do you want me to feel?
I think a James Hock woman should always feel comfortable and confident. You should definitely feel that you are being yourself and totally nonchalant. But I guess deep down inside, you do feel a little special, just a little.

I can see Gaga wearing James Hock. Are you a fan?
I think she’s a very clever girl and I guess in terms of manufactured pop, she’s at least fun to look at. My only concern is that she has somehow trivialized the work of designers and made fashion very disposable. Having said that, I wouldn’t say no to a lil’ Gaga on the dance floor.


James Hock S/S 2011, illustrated by Sam Parr

In what ways do you find fashion an effective portal for addressing serious issues?
I think fashion is an effective portal only on a short term basis. And this is purely because the very cyclical nature of fashion itself. Fashion is about change and it is about now. After that, we move on. It doesn’t mean we have forgotten and not care about the previous issue but there are simply other issues that perhaps resonate more socially and culturally.

Your second collection, ‘The witch, the bitch and the…’ becomes increasingly dark. This culminates in the disarmingly dramatic ‘Roger II’. What were you saying there?
It was a rather angry collection. There’s a lot of element of being restricted and not being able to do what you want. It’s definitely an “I can’t take this anymore!” kinda collection.


James Hock A/W 2011, illustrated by Laura Wiggins

How do you help your models to portray the mood of each collection so effectively?
It takes a good team to get all things right and I’m lucky to have a team that I work with regularly. I do always have a vision but sometimes someone else’s idea can add a whole new dimension to the collection, and I find that to be extremely refreshing.

For ‘Sleeping with Dali’, you used mostly black and gold. ‘The witch, the bitch and the…’  and  ‘Kpixoos Kaabos’ consist of (nearly) all black. For ‘The Unloved’, it’s black and red. Why do you limit your palette and is this a James Hock signature?
I think it is (for now). I don’t try to stay away from colour but at this moment the very controlled palette just suits my direction better.  

Red and black certainly provide a contrast to typical Spring/Summer florals, nudes and holiday hues. Do you feel that designers complicate clothes with too much colour?
It is very much a matter of preference and usage. A piece of clothing can be over complicated regardless of whether it is monotone or have 100 hues. And yes, black and red is a huge contrast for spring but I guess not everyone wants to look like a bouquet just because the sun is out.

What are James Hock’s plans for 2011?
Ooh.. very exciting. Knitwear was introduced in the recent collection and is definitely an area that will be further explored. There is also an online project kicking off soon and a couple of other projects I’m keeping mum.

How can fans buy James Hock?
Through our website, www.jameshock.co.uk for this season. There will be a few others for the A/W collection, so that’s really exciting too.

Finally, James, how would you describe your personal style?
I asked my friend this question and the answer he gave was esoteric. So, there you go!

All photographs A/W 2011, courtesy of James Hock.

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,black, ,Bloody Gray PR, ,Clash of the Titans, ,Desmond Davis, ,EZ Cobra trousers, ,fashion, ,Gold, ,illustration, ,interview, ,James Hock, ,Jan Matejko, ,Jaqueline Kishi, ,Karina Jarv, ,knitwear, ,Kpixoos Kaabos, ,Lady Gaga, ,Laura Wiggins, ,Red, ,Regal, ,Sam Parr, ,Sleeping with Dali, ,The Unloved, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ashish: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows
Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows.

This season Ashish turned to his roots for Bollywouldn’t, a collection which married the iconography of hippy India with late 80s rave culture, both style eras that have been repeatedly plundered by successive generations – one need only think of New Rave, that short lived phenomenon of just a few years ago. However, in the inimitable hands of Ashish, these styles have been reinvented once more, in a dusty meets fluoro palette of clashing logos and decorative decals.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows
Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows.

Models wore elaborate beaded face jewellery based on traditional Indian jewellery, with the addition of the odd cut out CND logo. High crepe soled rainbow platforms riffed on Ashish‘s usual love of DM boots. Shapes were mainly slouchy, with relaxed cardigans and hoods piled on top of baggy pants. The omnipresent sequins were of course in effect, creating smiley face repeat patterns, garish paisleys or giant body hugging pink buddhas.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Vicky Ink aka Vicky Fallon
Ashish A/W 2012 by Vicky Ink aka Vicky Fallon.

A clever two fingered slogan was repeated front and back, transferring its meaning in the event. Even a rainbow tie-dye design got the intricate sequinned treatment with Ashish. Hare Krishna style influenced ochre shirts were printed with deep red slogans: worn by boys hiding in cowl necked scarves. For women the same scarves came in dusky pinks and dove grey.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Antonia Parker
Ashish A/W 2012 by Antonia Parker
Ashish A/W 2012 by Antonia Parker.

Ashish always accompanies his collections with an evocative piece of prose that describes his muse. This season ‘She travels light, but shops heavy… Some say she’s a hippie, but she denies it: her shopping chakra dictates otherwise.’ It seems that for A/W 2012 Ashish has his designer tongue wedged ever more firmly in his cheek, and, as ever, I love him for it. Predictably, there were so many pieces that I loved in this imaginative and witty collection.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Sarah Jayne Draws
Ashish A/W 2012 by Sarah Jayne Draws.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Antonia Parker, ,Ashish, ,Bollywouldn’t, ,Catherine Meadows, ,catwalk, ,CND, ,DMs, ,Hare Krishna, ,Hippy, ,India, ,London Fashion Week, ,New Rave, ,review, ,Sarah-Jayne Draws, ,Sequins, ,Somerset House, ,Vicky Fallon, ,Vicky Ink

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ashley Isham: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review


Ashley Isham S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman

I brandished a ‘priority’ ticket at Ashley Isham‘s show on Saturday, shamefully secure as I stood in the queue that I was assured a top seat. As chaos descended outside, though, it soon became clear that being escorted to my seat by my arm like a debutante was looking unlikely. I rapidly gave up on any hope of resting my derriere inside, instead opting for a decent standing spot. As we waited for the show to begin, I nosily read a girl’s text messages to pass the time. ‘I’m third row, it’s RIDICULOUS!’ she exclaimed, by SMS, to pretty much everybody stored in her iPhone 5.


All photography by Matt Bramford

It was pretty easy to see what all the fuss was about as the show began. This ‘Belle du Jour‘ collection was as sophisticated and polished as any I’ve seen. Luxury fabrics in pale blue formed the opening pieces, presented as short dresses and tapered trousers. Shift dresses in pastel colours demonstrated Isham’s commercial viability, while plastic jackets with floral edges added a futuristic dimension to the collection. These appeared in electric blue and black and were my favourite pieces. Hats by House of Flora covered models faces, only revealing eyes with laser cut mask shapes filled in with netting.


Ashley Isham S/S 2014 by Ozlem Djafer

There were a couple of slightly obscure pieces: a casual grey top teamed with ill-fitting white trousers didn’t belong, but were quickly forgotten with the finale pieces – Isham’s glamorous red carpet-ready dresses. Sweetheart necklines, fishtail hems, couture worthy embellishment and embroidery and elongated trains will secure even more fashionable followers.

Categories ,Ashley Isham, ,catwalk, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Laura Hickman, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ozlem Djafer, ,Plastics, ,Red carpet, ,review, ,SS14, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Voting Reform: An interview with Amisha Ghadiali

Yes to Fairer Votes Vice-Chair Amisha Ghadiali wearing Ada Zanditon. Illustration by Sam Parr

On May 5th 2011, this the United Kingdom will be asked – in the first referendum since 1975 – to vote on the following question:

At present, price the UK uses the ‘first past the post’ system to elect MPs to the House of Commons. Should the ‘alternative vote’ system be used instead?

The referendum on the Alternative Vote is the first time in our lifetimes that the citizens of the UK have been able to have a say in how we elect MP’s to the House of Commons.

Currently, viagra 100mg this historical moment to discuss voting reform – amongst a broader analysis on the current state of Britain’s democracy – is being lost amidst (speculated) Coalition tensions and fear mongering on the cost of moving from FPTP to AV. Whilst to some, AV may be “a miserable little compromise” that fails to push voting reform far enough, by voting Yes! on the 5th May we, the citizens of the UK, can register our disquiet with the current system (FPTP) and enable the discussion on voting reform to stay at the forefront of the political agenda.

To find out more about what the Alternative Vote is compared to the current system of “First Past The Post” Amelia’s Magazine interviewed one of the Yes Campaign’s Vice-Chair’s: Jewellery Designer, Ethical Fashion Campaigner and Founder of Think Act VoteAmisha Ghadiali.

Photography by Anna Gordon

What is a referendum?

A referendum is when we are asked to vote, not in an election, but on a single issue. Many of us would like to see more of these on a variety of issues. However they are not that common, the last UK-wide referendum was in 1975 asking the question “Do you think the UK should stay in the European Community (Common Market)?”

What is the Alternative Vote?

The Alternative Vote is a voting system, it means that instead of putting one X on our ballot paper, we rank our candidates in order of preference. You can rank all the candidates, or just one, it’s totally up to you. What this means is that if there are three candidates that you would be happy to represent you, you can communicate this. Or if your first choice is a smaller party, that under the current system would have little chance to getting in, you can vote for them, but also somebody from one of the main parties, without having to vote tactically.

 The person who wins the seats needs to have the majority of the vote, so what they do is count the votes. If nobody has 50% of the vote, they eliminate the candidate that comes last, and add their second preferences to the remaining candidates. This repeats until somebody has over 50% of the vote. It means that no votes are wasted.

What are the benefits to AV compared to FPTP?

The current system FPTP means that who ever gets the most votes wins. This sounds fair but what it means in reality is that 2 out of 3 MPs in our parliament have less then 50% of the vote. This means that most of us are represented by people most of us voted against.

The Alternative Vote will mean that MPs will have to be voted for by the majority in their constituency, and so will have to work harder to make sure that they are listening to all of their constituents and representing all of their views, rather then pandering to their core voter support which many of them do.

How are the ‘winners’ in FPTP Elections often opposed to by the majority of voters?

Because the candidate who gets the most votes wins, it doesn’t matter how much of the vote they got. For example some have as little as 32% of the vote in their constituency, meaning that over two thirds of their consistency didn’t vote for them.

Why are you voting Yes to AV?

I think that the Alternative Vote will make our democracy more honest, make all of our votes count, make our MPs have to work harder to gain wider support in their constituencies, make our MPs more accountable to us and make our experience of voting simpler. We will still have our one local MP, but will have more of a say on who that is.

The way that we vote is how we take part in our democracy, and so having more of a say in this part of the process is vital to making ours a fairer politics.

I believe that voting yes in this referendum is the most important vote that we have ever been asked to cast.


AV – A Historical Perspective

Why do you believe this is the most important vote we have ever been asked to cast?

I have taken part in two general elections where I know that my vote didn’t make any difference to the result. Although voting in both general and local elections is an important part of our citizenship, this is us voting on the future of our democracy. It’s the first referendum that I have ever taken part in. It’s not about party politics and politicians but about how we take part in politics and have our views represented. What could be more important than that? After all they do work for us.

What is your role within the Yes campaign?

I am a Vice-Chair of the campaign. When I thought about it over Christmas, I realised how passionately I felt about this referendum, and contacted the campaign asking if I could help. They invited me to be a Vice-Chair along with other supporters including Eddie Izzard, Martin Bell and Greg Dyke. It means that we campaign and speak out about the issues to the media and at events, and as I have discovered in the pub too!

Yes to AV illustration by Mike Harman

 What are your thoughts on how both the Yes to AV and No to AV campaigns have been run?

To be honest, I have found the whole debate in the media really depressing. The focal point often is about how it is going to affect the politicians, but this is not about them, it’s about us and our experience voting. It’s about our future, not about the present.

Of course, I am a supporter of the Yes Campaign, but feel that I would have been deeply disappointed in the No Campaign tactics even if I supported FPTP. Their campaign messages are built on actual lies, and I can’t believe that people are spending millions of pounds spreading lies, rather then on creating an honest open debate about the two systems. There has been so much ‘mud slinging’ which I find shocking, because I thought our politics was better than that.

Their three arguments are that it is expensive, it will give extremist parties (ie the BNP) more power and that it is too complicated for us to understand. None of these things are actually true. They have said it will cost £250 million which is the cost of the referendum whatever the result and the cost of counting machines that we are not getting. They have said that it will encourage the BNP, when the BNP are supporting a No vote, as they know the current system works better for them. And the idea that it is too complicated is frankly insulting. We can all count to three!

The Yes campaign has had to respond to a lot of the allegations that have been made, using time when we would have preferred to talk about relevant issues. I am really enjoying the energy of the Yes campaign, it has brought together a group of passionate, committed people from a variety of backgrounds. The local groups that have been running phone banks and doing local actions are really energetic and inspiring. 

Photography by Anna Gordon

 Why do you think the Conservatives, headed by David Cameron are campaigning against AV, though Cameron himself won the party leadership through AV?

It’s baffling isn’t it. I find it shocking that he is saying that AV is a bad system when it gave him his job. If the Conservative Party leadership deserves AV, then so should we. It is a system that is used a lot in Westminster, not just for leadership contests but also other votes such as how MPs join select committees. I think it is because this change breaks down the tribalism of the Conservatives vs Labour Party, which has served the conservative party well. I thought Cameron was more progressive, but seeing him campaign on this, my personal view is that Cameron doesn’t actually want us to have more say, he is happy with the system as it is, as it works for him.

Will AV tackle the culture of tactical voting and ‘safe seats’? Thus uprooting the current system of members of parliament being parachuted intp safe constituencies?

Yes it will. There is a website called Voter Power, where you can find out what your vote is worth with AV compared to FPTP. From their analysis AV will reduce the number of very safe seats by 60, and increase the number of very marginal seats by 44. So this will make a big difference.

Safe seats are definitely a problem in our current system, as is the fact that political parties openly target the marginal seats only. In the last election the votes of only 1.6% of the electorate in 111 of these marginal seats decided the result. This is something that we have to change.

There will be no need for tactical voting. You can vote with your real preferences, and don’t have to think about voting ‘against’ people.

Why do you think the number of people who vote at each General Election is falling? What needs to change within our political system that will encourage people to use their vote?

I think that there are many reasons why voting turnout is falling, a lack of trust in politicians, declining numbers of political party membership, the number of safe seats held by MPs, feeling that votes don’t count, as just a few. I think that people need to feel more connected to politics, and feel that their voice is really heard through voting. I think the Alternative Vote will help solve these issues. It will not solve all the ills of politics in this country, but it is a small change we can and should make for the better.

Photography by Anna Gordon

In the media there have been mutterings on both the reduction of the number of MP’s and the redrawing of constituency boundaries, what effect will this decision have on politics and what is it relation to the referendum on the alternative vote?

So it has nothing to do with the referendum. This happened earlier in the year, it was part of the same bill that the referendum was on when it went through parliament, and was not something that we had a say on. This has happened, and will take effect at the next general election. There are going to be 50 less MPs which means that some of the current boundaries will be re-drawn and made bigger. The idea is that it keeps the cost of politics down.  It has been quite controversial as they are dividing some traditional boundaries and local areas. At the same time Cameron has appointed 117 new peers in the House of Lords since last May, which is actually putting the cost of politics up despite cutting the number of MPs.

Any website or article recommendations for those interested in finding out more about the referendum?

Electoral Reform
 
Yes to Fairer Votes

Elegance Rebellion

If you get the X Factor you’ll get AV – Johann Hari

You can join the campaign on Facebook and Twitter too!

Categories ,5th May 2011, ,Amisha Ghadiali, ,Anna Gordon, ,Conservatives, ,David Cameron, ,Ed Milliband, ,FPTP, ,General Election, ,House of Commons, ,Labour, ,Liberal Democrats, ,May 5th, ,Mike Harman, ,MP, ,Nick Clegg, ,No to AV, ,Referendum, ,Sam Parr, ,Think Act Vote, ,Yes to AV, ,Yes to Fairer Votes

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