Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Bryce Aime

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Christopher Beales has been working at the coal face of fashion for his entire career thus far, order in places as diverse as Voyage (the bizarre hippyluxe shop that you had to be a member of to even enter) and for Primark. He’s worked for Alexander McQueen and Matthew Williamson, as a costume designer for films such as Harry Potter and Robin Hood, and he’s dressed eccentric individuals such as Prince.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

On Friday evening I popped along to his A/W 2011 presentation When The Crystal Crack’d, which was conveniently held in the Rag Factory off Brick Lane – thereby ensuring a steady stream of inquisitive fashionistas who were no doubt heading home to their East London nests after a long first day of shows.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Arranged on a sculptural arrangement of silver mesh mannequins, themselves constructed by Christopher Beales, this was a stunning debut for LFW: low key but very clever in its presentation. When The Crystal Crack’d is a collection of cocktail and evening dresses that features the precision tailoring that Christopher has perfected over many years of pattern cutting for famous names. Based on lots of asymmetric shapes in pastel and metallic silk, my favourite bit of the collection was most definitely in the details. Unexpected bows held aloft draped fabric, metal spikes accentuated the subtle curve of an exposed back and knobbled wool traced the contours of a waist.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I look forward to seeing what next season will bring.
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Christopher Beales has been working at the coal face of fashion for his entire career thus far, page in places as diverse as Voyage (the bizarre hippyluxe shop that you had to be a member of to even enter) and for Primark. He’s worked for Alexander McQueen and Matthew Williamson, sick as a costume designer for films such as Harry Potter and Robin Hood, website and he’s dressed eccentric individuals such as Prince.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

On Friday evening I popped along to his A/W 2011 presentation When The Crystal Crack’d, which was conveniently held in the Rag Factory off Brick Lane – thereby ensuring a steady stream of inquisitive fashionistas who were no doubt heading home to their East London nests after a long first day of shows.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Arranged on a sculptural arrangement of silver mesh mannequins, themselves constructed by Christopher Beales, this was a stunning debut for LFW: low key but very clever in its presentation. When The Crystal Crack’d is a collection of cocktail and evening dresses that features the precision tailoring that Christopher has perfected over many years of pattern cutting for famous names. Based on lots of asymmetric shapes in pastel and metallic silk, my favourite bit of the collection was most definitely in the details. Unexpected bows held aloft draped fabric, metal spikes accentuated the subtle curve of an exposed back and knobbled wool traced the contours of a waist.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I look forward to seeing what next season will bring.
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson.

Bryce Aime: a man not afraid to experiment with scale, order volume and angular surfaces in clothing. I missed his show last season but I certainly enjoyed the theatricality of his Egyptian inspired collection a year ago.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

Unfortunately we were offered just the one ticket, information pills and a pretty duff seat at that. Given the lack of options I did very well to find a spot from which I could take decent photos of the models as they were propelled onto the catwalk, the LED screen at On/Off providing a futuristic slither of abstract background which worked especially well with the Bryce Aime aesthetic, always modern and angular.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

In shiny shiny fabrics combined with light absorbing wools and leather Militarium was a mix of body con stretch and uber slick tailoring. Unfortunately ink splurge stretchy leggings did not exactly work too well on the bony legs of the models, who sported a selection of serious camel toe action. Despite the very masculine up and down nature of the tailored jackets this felt like a collection that would have better suited a bodaciously curvy creature.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

Occasionally a model swerved onto the catwalk sporting a giant geometric head mask, but I was more taken by a fetching range of matching handbags that have been created in collaboration with bag designer Bracher Emden, whose handiwork I admired up close on the On/Off stands. SO WANT ONE. Particularly the seriously 80s cross body version.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Bryce Aime is known for ending on an outfit that would better suit an outre pop star rather than a normal member of the buying public. This time it was the headwear that he extended into an entire dress… sheeny shiny, an oily print glistening over its surface. A great great showpiece – and just the ticket to shift those very desirable handbags, which were undoubtedly my favourite part of this show.

Categories ,Bracher Emden, ,Bryce Aime, ,Handbags, ,Militarium, ,onoff, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Sandra Contreras

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Bryce Aime

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Christopher Beales has been working at the coal face of fashion for his entire career thus far, order in places as diverse as Voyage (the bizarre hippyluxe shop that you had to be a member of to even enter) and for Primark. He’s worked for Alexander McQueen and Matthew Williamson, as a costume designer for films such as Harry Potter and Robin Hood, and he’s dressed eccentric individuals such as Prince.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

On Friday evening I popped along to his A/W 2011 presentation When The Crystal Crack’d, which was conveniently held in the Rag Factory off Brick Lane – thereby ensuring a steady stream of inquisitive fashionistas who were no doubt heading home to their East London nests after a long first day of shows.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Arranged on a sculptural arrangement of silver mesh mannequins, themselves constructed by Christopher Beales, this was a stunning debut for LFW: low key but very clever in its presentation. When The Crystal Crack’d is a collection of cocktail and evening dresses that features the precision tailoring that Christopher has perfected over many years of pattern cutting for famous names. Based on lots of asymmetric shapes in pastel and metallic silk, my favourite bit of the collection was most definitely in the details. Unexpected bows held aloft draped fabric, metal spikes accentuated the subtle curve of an exposed back and knobbled wool traced the contours of a waist.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I look forward to seeing what next season will bring.
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Christopher Beales has been working at the coal face of fashion for his entire career thus far, page in places as diverse as Voyage (the bizarre hippyluxe shop that you had to be a member of to even enter) and for Primark. He’s worked for Alexander McQueen and Matthew Williamson, sick as a costume designer for films such as Harry Potter and Robin Hood, website and he’s dressed eccentric individuals such as Prince.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

On Friday evening I popped along to his A/W 2011 presentation When The Crystal Crack’d, which was conveniently held in the Rag Factory off Brick Lane – thereby ensuring a steady stream of inquisitive fashionistas who were no doubt heading home to their East London nests after a long first day of shows.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Arranged on a sculptural arrangement of silver mesh mannequins, themselves constructed by Christopher Beales, this was a stunning debut for LFW: low key but very clever in its presentation. When The Crystal Crack’d is a collection of cocktail and evening dresses that features the precision tailoring that Christopher has perfected over many years of pattern cutting for famous names. Based on lots of asymmetric shapes in pastel and metallic silk, my favourite bit of the collection was most definitely in the details. Unexpected bows held aloft draped fabric, metal spikes accentuated the subtle curve of an exposed back and knobbled wool traced the contours of a waist.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I look forward to seeing what next season will bring.
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson.

Bryce Aime: a man not afraid to experiment with scale, order volume and angular surfaces in clothing. I missed his show last season but I certainly enjoyed the theatricality of his Egyptian inspired collection a year ago.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

Unfortunately we were offered just the one ticket, information pills and a pretty duff seat at that. Given the lack of options I did very well to find a spot from which I could take decent photos of the models as they were propelled onto the catwalk, the LED screen at On/Off providing a futuristic slither of abstract background which worked especially well with the Bryce Aime aesthetic, always modern and angular.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

In shiny shiny fabrics combined with light absorbing wools and leather Militarium was a mix of body con stretch and uber slick tailoring. Unfortunately ink splurge stretchy leggings did not exactly work too well on the bony legs of the models, who sported a selection of serious camel toe action. Despite the very masculine up and down nature of the tailored jackets this felt like a collection that would have better suited a bodaciously curvy creature.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

Occasionally a model swerved onto the catwalk sporting a giant geometric head mask, but I was more taken by a fetching range of matching handbags that have been created in collaboration with bag designer Bracher Emden, whose handiwork I admired up close on the On/Off stands. SO WANT ONE. Particularly the seriously 80s cross body version.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Bryce Aime is known for ending on an outfit that would better suit an outre pop star rather than a normal member of the buying public. This time it was the headwear that he extended into an entire dress… sheeny shiny, an oily print glistening over its surface. A great great showpiece – and just the ticket to shift those very desirable handbags, which were undoubtedly my favourite part of this show.

Categories ,Bracher Emden, ,Bryce Aime, ,Handbags, ,Militarium, ,onoff, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Sandra Contreras

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu (by Amelia)

Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea
Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea.

Charlie Le Mindu has already done massive headpieces and copious nudity… what could possibly be next? How about dripping blood, nurse Nazi references and CUNT (sprayed onto the back of a model’s head)? Yes, more about this and more was to be our Sunday morning treat at Berlin Syndrome, a show inspired by the WWII decadence of the German Third Reich.

Charlie Le Mindu. Photography by Tim Adey
Charlie Le Mindu. Photography by Tim Adey.

Charlie Le Mindu by Dan Stafford
Charlie Le Mindu by Dan Stafford.

Each season a Charlie Le Mindu ticket grows that little bit hotter… and the queues of people desperate to view his inimitable mix of genius, fantasy and fannies grows ever more clamourous. So it was that whilst waiting for Jazzkatze to start I made a judgement, made my excuses, and headed over to the tiny On/Off venue. These things happen. I knew it would be totally worth it.

Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea
Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea.

But first I had to battle my way into a decent seat. Hot avante garde fashion tends to attract a lot of extravagant characters, each trying to out-outfit the next one.

YouTube Preview Image
Out Outfit You by Bourgeois & Maurice.

So it was that I found myself just a few bodies down from fashion doyenne Daphne Guinnessallegedly attending her only show this season – and a rare LFW sighting of Diane Pernet.

Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Emma Jardine
Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Emma Jardine.

Across the way club kid Daniel Lismore looked uncomfortably squished in one of the huge froufrou contraptions that constitutes his “look”. The delightful (and talented) Natasha Khan of Bat for Lashes looked wonderfully normal in comparison – and had to fight for a front row spot.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Kap Bambino provided the intense soundtrack to this show, a mash up of melodic vocals, pig squeals and a grimy off-kilter baseline. Our first treat? A stripper, dripping with blood from her Violence headgear to her vampirish talons. Her only accessory was an ancient looking metal bag, slung nonchalantly from her shoulder on a thin piece of chain.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

She was followed onto the catwalk by a giant mohican worn with plastic cape and lacy shorts – a cross of gaffa tape the only nod to modesty. More buttery lace, more plastic, more fringing and beading on both men and women. Make up was pale, deathly, fittingly. From the front a plastic fluffy fringed cape looked pervily demure, arms bound down to the sides. From the back it revealed a spray painted phallus and more that I cannot read.

Charlie Le Mindu by Madi
Charlie Le Mindu by Madi.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely WarsCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars.

A moderately wearable lace belted maxi coat was followed by more exposed boobs and a gas mask with a waterfall of hair extruding from the mouth like an alien intervention. More hair as fur, smudged red lips, a smile from a knowing model as she pounded towards the thickly layered ranks of photographers.

Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Natsuki Otani
Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Natsuki Otani.

Charlie Le Mindu Finale Piece by LJG Art & Illustration
Charlie Le Mindu Finale Piece by LJG Art & Illustration.

And finally the denouement, a huge white eagle – a reference to the Third Reich insignia – clutching a blonde be-wigged head, the bird trailing lace and blood to the floor. It was a trail that followed the models back stage as the show ended to the sounds of a porcine massacre and Charlie Le Mindu took his curtain bow in a butcher’s apron, hands bloody. I glanced anxiously over to stylist Tamara Cincik, who was protectively cradling her pregnant belly.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Katie Antoniou’s earlier blog about the same show here, and see more work by Andrea Peterson in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration. There is also a lovely blog featuring Andrea Peterson at work on the creation of her Charlie Le Mindu painting right here.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Ani Saunders, ,Anna Trevelyan, ,Artist Andrea, ,Bat for Lashes, ,berlin, ,Berlin Syndrome, ,Blood, ,Bourgeois & Maurice, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,CUNT, ,Dan Stafford, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Daphne Guinness, ,Diane Pernet, ,Eagle, ,Emma Jardine, ,Hair, ,Insignia, ,Jazzkatze, ,Kap Bambino, ,Katie Antoniou, ,LJG Art & Illustration, ,Madi, ,Madi Illustrates, ,Natasha Khan, ,Natsuki Otani, ,Nudity, ,onoff, ,Out Outfit You, ,Plastic, ,Strippers, ,Tamara Cincik, ,The Lovely Wars, ,Third Reich, ,Tim Adey, ,Wigs, ,WWII

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu (by Amelia)

Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea
Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea.

Charlie Le Mindu has already done massive headpieces and copious nudity… what could possibly be next? How about dripping blood, nurse Nazi references and CUNT (sprayed onto the back of a model’s head)? Yes, more about this and more was to be our Sunday morning treat at Berlin Syndrome, a show inspired by the WWII decadence of the German Third Reich.

Charlie Le Mindu. Photography by Tim Adey
Charlie Le Mindu. Photography by Tim Adey.

Charlie Le Mindu by Dan Stafford
Charlie Le Mindu by Dan Stafford.

Each season a Charlie Le Mindu ticket grows that little bit hotter… and the queues of people desperate to view his inimitable mix of genius, fantasy and fannies grows ever more clamourous. So it was that whilst waiting for Jazzkatze to start I made a judgement, made my excuses, and headed over to the tiny On/Off venue. These things happen. I knew it would be totally worth it.

Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea
Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea.

But first I had to battle my way into a decent seat. Hot avante garde fashion tends to attract a lot of extravagant characters, each trying to out-outfit the next one.

YouTube Preview Image
Out Outfit You by Bourgeois & Maurice.

So it was that I found myself just a few bodies down from fashion doyenne Daphne Guinnessallegedly attending her only show this season – and a rare LFW sighting of Diane Pernet.

Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Emma Jardine
Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Emma Jardine.

Across the way club kid Daniel Lismore looked uncomfortably squished in one of the huge froufrou contraptions that constitutes his “look”. The delightful (and talented) Natasha Khan of Bat for Lashes looked wonderfully normal in comparison – and had to fight for a front row spot.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Kap Bambino provided the intense soundtrack to this show, a mash up of melodic vocals, pig squeals and a grimy off-kilter baseline. Our first treat? A stripper, dripping with blood from her Violence headgear to her vampirish talons. Her only accessory was an ancient looking metal bag, slung nonchalantly from her shoulder on a thin piece of chain.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

She was followed onto the catwalk by a giant mohican worn with plastic cape and lacy shorts – a cross of gaffa tape the only nod to modesty. More buttery lace, more plastic, more fringing and beading on both men and women. Make up was pale, deathly, fittingly. From the front a plastic fluffy fringed cape looked pervily demure, arms bound down to the sides. From the back it revealed a spray painted phallus and more that I cannot read.

Charlie Le Mindu by Madi
Charlie Le Mindu by Madi.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely WarsCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars.

A moderately wearable lace belted maxi coat was followed by more exposed boobs and a gas mask with a waterfall of hair extruding from the mouth like an alien intervention. More hair as fur, smudged red lips, a smile from a knowing model as she pounded towards the thickly layered ranks of photographers.

Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Natsuki Otani
Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Natsuki Otani.

Charlie Le Mindu Finale Piece by LJG Art & Illustration
Charlie Le Mindu Finale Piece by LJG Art & Illustration.

And finally the denouement, a huge white eagle – a reference to the Third Reich insignia – clutching a blonde be-wigged head, the bird trailing lace and blood to the floor. It was a trail that followed the models back stage as the show ended to the sounds of a porcine massacre and Charlie Le Mindu took his curtain bow in a butcher’s apron, hands bloody. I glanced anxiously over to stylist Tamara Cincik, who was protectively cradling her pregnant belly.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Katie Antoniou’s earlier blog about the same show here, and see more work by Andrea Peterson in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration. There is also a lovely blog featuring Andrea Peterson at work on the creation of her Charlie Le Mindu painting right here.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Ani Saunders, ,Anna Trevelyan, ,Artist Andrea, ,Bat for Lashes, ,berlin, ,Berlin Syndrome, ,Blood, ,Bourgeois & Maurice, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,CUNT, ,Dan Stafford, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Daphne Guinness, ,Diane Pernet, ,Eagle, ,Emma Jardine, ,Hair, ,Insignia, ,Jazzkatze, ,Kap Bambino, ,Katie Antoniou, ,LJG Art & Illustration, ,Madi, ,Madi Illustrates, ,Natasha Khan, ,Natsuki Otani, ,Nudity, ,onoff, ,Out Outfit You, ,Plastic, ,Strippers, ,Tamara Cincik, ,The Lovely Wars, ,Third Reich, ,Tim Adey, ,Wigs, ,WWII

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Jayne Pierson

Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria
Jaeger, information pills I’m afraid, diagnosis is one of those shows for which I lost the press release several weeks ago. But who needs a blurb anyway? Surely the clothes should be able to do the talking…

Jaeger, information pills a traditional fashion brand that has managed to up the fashion style stakes with in house design team shake ups. The current creative director is Stuart Stockdale, who formerly worked for Pringle of Scotland amongst others. He’s been with Jaeger for several years now, and has succeeded in reinvigorating the brand. What is it with British heritage fashion brands? They’re just so very good at reinventing themselves.

It was under the clean lights of the BFC tent that Jaeger hit the catwalk, itself all clean lines and considered tailoring. Sharp, beautifully crisp well fitting garments ploughed out to meet the photographers. I think this is what’s known as an autumnal colour range. Blocks of cinnamon, caramel, fallen leaf orange, paprika, mustard and moss gathered around punctual navy blues and sensible chocolate brown. Capacious leather bags swung or handheld clutches were the accessory of choice and the shoes were simply divine, cleverly styled with stripy woollen socks. Present and correct was the colour du jour – sharp bursts of orange red. Or on dazzling silky blouses a lip-smacking deep fuchsia pink. Yum.

This is what I would wear if I were a different kind of person: one who always looks immaculately turned out, whatever the occasion. And of course one who has a very nice steady stream of income. Working women in a certain type of job would do well to look to Jaeger for fabulous style and quality.
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi.

Jaeger, viagra I’m afraid, sales is one of those shows for which I lost the press release several weeks ago. But who needs a blurb anyway? Surely the clothes should be able to do the talking…

Jaeger, a traditional fashion brand that has managed to up the fashion style stakes with in house design team shake ups. The current creative director is Stuart Stockdale, who formerly worked for Pringle of Scotland amongst others. He’s been with Jaeger for several years now, and has succeeded in reinvigorating the brand. What is it with British heritage fashion brands? They’re just so very good at reinventing themselves.

Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana FariaJaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.

It was under the clean lights of the BFC tent that Jaeger hit the catwalk, itself all clean lines and considered tailoring. Sharp, beautifully crisp well fitting garments ploughed out to meet the photographers. I think this is what’s known as an autumnal colour range. Blocks of cinnamon, caramel, fallen leaf orange, paprika, mustard and moss gathered around punctual navy blues and sensible chocolate brown. Capacious leather bags swung or handheld clutches were the accessory of choice and the shoes were simply divine, cleverly styled with stripy woollen socks. Present and correct was the colour du jour – sharp bursts of orange red. Or on dazzling silky blouses a lip-smacking deep fuchsia pink. Yum.

This is what I would wear if I were a different kind of person: one who always looks immaculately turned out, whatever the occasion. And of course one who has a very nice steady stream of income. Working women in a certain type of job would do well to look to Jaeger for fabulous style and quality.
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi.

Jaeger, cure I’m afraid, about it is one of those shows for which I lost the press release several weeks ago. But who needs a blurb anyway? Surely the clothes should be able to do the talking…

Jaeger, a traditional fashion brand that has managed to up the fashion style stakes with in house design team shake ups. The current creative director is Stuart Stockdale, who formerly worked for Pringle of Scotland amongst others. He’s been with Jaeger for several years now, and has succeeded in reinvigorating the brand. What is it with British heritage fashion brands? They’re just so very good at reinventing themselves.

Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana FariaJaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.

It was under the clean lights of the BFC tent that Jaeger hit the catwalk, itself all clean lines and considered tailoring. Sharp, beautifully crisp well fitting garments ploughed out to meet the photographers. I think this is what’s known as an autumnal colour range. Blocks of cinnamon, caramel, fallen leaf orange, paprika, mustard and moss gathered around punctual navy blues and sensible chocolate brown. Capacious leather bags swung or handheld clutches were the accessory of choice and the shoes were simply divine, cleverly styled with stripy woollen socks. Present and correct was the colour du jour – sharp bursts of orange red. Or on dazzling silky blouses a lip-smacking deep fuchsia pink. Yum.

This is what I would wear if I were a different kind of person: one who always looks immaculately turned out, whatever the occasion. And of course one who has a very nice steady stream of income. Working women in a certain type of job would do well to look to Jaeger for fabulous style and quality.
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi.

Jaeger, shop I’m afraid, medications is one of those shows for which I lost the press release several weeks ago. But who needs a blurb anyway? Surely the clothes should be able to do the talking…

Jaeger is a traditional brand that has managed to up the fashion style stakes with in house design team shake ups. The current creative director is Stuart Stockdale, who formerly worked for Pringle of Scotland amongst others. He’s been with Jaeger for several years now and after a prolonged period in the doldrums he has succeeded in reinvigorating the brand. What is it with British heritage fashion brands? They’re just so very good at reinventing themselves.

Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana FariaJaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.

It was under the clean lights of the BFC tent that Jaeger hit the catwalk, itself all clean lines and considered tailoring. Sharp, beautifully crisp well fitting garments ploughed out to meet the photographers. The collection was a delicious mix of autumnal colours: blocks of cinnamon, caramel, fallen leaf orange, paprika, mustard and moss gathering around punctual navy blues and sensible chocolate brown. Capacious leather bags swung or handheld clutches were the accessory of choice and the shoes were simply divine, cleverly styled with stripy woollen socks. Present and correct was the colour du jour – sharp bursts of orange red. Or on dazzling silky blouses a lip-smacking deep fuchsia pink. Yum.

This is what I would wear if I were a different kind of person: one who always looks immaculately turned out, whatever the occasion. And of course one who has a very nice steady stream of income. Working women in a certain type of job would do well to look to Jaeger for fabulous style and quality that won’t go out of fashion in a hurry.
Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

For Jayne Pierson I raced into town alone – yet another early morning show for which we only had one ticket, cheap enticingly printed on pearly grey paper. This despite a very nice mention of our support in the accompanying press release – thankyou whoever thought to mention us, approved it’s appreciated! We did in fact catch up with Jayne just prior to her show, and you can read the interview here. The invite and goodie bag were not, however, an indicator of a colourful show but rather the favoured shade of make-up. Kingdom of Shadows began on a black note and carried on in the same vein, broken up only by a curious grey and beige striped taffeta that is something of a Pierson signature but would not have looked out of place on curtains or a sofa in a certain type of house.

Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson Kingdom of Shadows by Kerri-Ann Hulme
Jayne Pierson’s Kingdom of Shadows by Kerri-Ann Hulme.

Jayne Pierson formerly worked in the music business and this show felt deeply imbued with the remnants of an 80s rock sensibility. A gothic Victorian kind of rock, with swaggering shoulders and bunched bustle skirts. The models sported messy up dos, pallid faces with lilac lips and pin sharp shapely heels. Black tailored jackets featured inset patent fabric shoulders and cuffs, leather minidresses cowl-necked atop rubberised leggings. The sudden introduction of striped silk was balanced with patent detailing on collar, waist and cuffs – a jaunty pillbox hat set askance.

Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson by Laura Mullins
Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 by Laura Mullins.

Devore lacy velvet also made an appearance, not to mention a terribly racy see through crop top and leggings. I particularly liked the large but lightly draped silver jewellery by Fiona Paxton, who fuses Indian artisanship with a British punk sensibility and Bauhaus design. A corseted jumpsuit that hit the catwalk in a tipsy fashion was less desirable: the poor dresser must have got a shafting but I blame the model’s lack of boobs. What’s the point of a shaped bodice if there’s nothing to put in it?

Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Jayne took her bow on the catwalk accompanied by a celebrity model – which no one knew. I had to check in with the PR to find out who she was but I can’t for the life of me remember – apparently she was a Welsh singer.

Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

There were some beautiful ideas in Kingdom of Shadows; especially the strong shoulders and nipped in waists that recalled my fondest decade, the 80s. And I adored the carefully constructed bustle dress that bore the influence of Jayne’s time with Vivienne Westwood. But yet again there was all that pesky black, which will never ever be my favourite fashion colour. Here’s hoping that next season might see the reintroduction of colour again. Go on Jayne, please!

Categories ,80s, ,bauhaus, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Fiona Paxton, ,gothic, ,Indian, ,Jayne Pierson, ,Kerri-Ann Hulme, ,Kingdom of Shadows, ,Laura Mullins, ,onoff, ,punk, ,Victorian, ,Vivienne Westwood

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Jena.Theo (by Jemma)


Illustration by Sandra Contreras

Jena.Theo, drug made up of Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis, viagra order who met at the London College of Fashion, this web clearly want to be rock-chic at heart, and the show was like a highly anticipated gig with fashion editors literally fighting for seats (I’m not kidding it was crazy). So a bit of a manic start then!


Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

The models sashayed down the catwalk whilst the clothes beautifully draped and flowed behind them and nothing was structured; it was very much a free-loving collection. A possible clanger came from the denim bubble coat (not as horrific as it sounds but still bad) and the look was slightly undone; maybe even unfinished but then maybe that’s what was intended.

The venue itself was pretty hardcore for 11am too with flashing coloured lasers spraying from the ceiling and a giant board lit up behind the models leaving us in no doubt as to what show we were at. They might as well have told us to get our rave on whilst referencing Valkyrie as the collection was aptly known.


Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Something always gets me though at these shows and it’s when the designers decide that ‘normal’ make up isn’t enough for their show, they need something a little kooky. Jena Theo decided that each model needed a black ‘Michael Stipe’ esque stripe across their eyes and to me it just wasn’t needed. Not that it particularly distracted from the clothes but it didn’t necessarily add anything either.


Illustration by Sandra Contreras

I’ll give them their due, after all it is their first on-schedule show this year but maybe next year the theatrical make up needs to be left out. Surely there’s enough of that in fashion!

You can saw more of Gareth A Hopkins’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Catwalk review, ,Covent Garden, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Jena.theo, ,London Fashion Week, ,Michael Stipe, ,onoff, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Valkyrie

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu by Amelia

Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

And so the circus starts all over again…. in a not particularly auspicious way for little ol’ me, pill as I was nearly run over by a succession of buses rally driving bumper to bumper through Holborn as I was wending my way to my first fashion week show astride my lethal Raleigh Shopper (yes, price Shopper, medications not Chopper. There will be no wheelies on this bike). And then a nasty man in a car called me a ‘stupid caaah’. It all started swimmingly I tells you. Bastard.

At the on/off premises – Victoria House in Bloomsbury – I was met by two young girls bearing brollies as if promoting a car show outside Earl’s Court rather than the uber-trendy off schedule space where all the most hotly tipped designers will show. Inside I was warned not to trip over a step leading to a stuffed deer over which swung, and will swing all week, an intricately papercut sculpture. Rob Ryan, I blame you – papercutting is so very now, it’s even on the light fittings in the press den.

Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole
Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole

Getting into the show proved simple – a charming cockney fella on the door was greeting all the as yet fresh-faced fashionistas with a cheery grin, merrily announcing: “You got a pass love? Don’t matter what kind. Oyster card will do!” Next to the showhall there was a hastily erected memorial to Alexander Mcqueen that looked suspiciously as if it may have been sponsored by apple, touch screens showcasing his catwalk shows interspersed with the occasional app rollcall. A more personal homage was to be found over at the BFC tent, featuring some touching hand written messages.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie Le Mindu was and is principally known as a hair stylist, so it comes as no great surprise that his show was sponsored by copious quantities of hair products and… a wig salon; who provided the large empty pink boxes that everyone is seen touting about the place for the ensuing day, perfectly sized to make a great girly box file. In fact there was so much to take away that I struggled under the load from the very first show. Whoever said there was a recession?

I took my place on the front row next to Guy, editor of Fashion156 Magazine, which is another online fashion magazine. He told me that he had 12 people covering the shows, including backstage photographers. And they should be uploading throughout the day. I was impressed!

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

What can I tell you about Charlie Le Mindu? The show started with a lady bearing a crystal crucifix on her head and things just got better. The black lace bodystockings were merely a foil for the impressive cocoon like wigs and head pieces, constructed from feathers, tassels and all things exotic – most of it was not exactly clothing but defiantly offered a fan-fucking-tastic kick off to fashion week. The models stomped down the runway in royal blue make up, some smeared in deepest black bodypaint. Capes and swinging bags to match your hair? Why, step this way madam.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie is clearly a magnet for the more exotic types of fashionista and there were plenty of strangely dressed people to be ogled, even so early in the morning, including a large man with a bushy beard, sexy black dress, (possibly real) fur stole and glamourous red lipstick. And the best bit about such creatures is that they’re more than happy to pose because they’re all hoping for a few moments of internet glory – and the possibility of flouncing their look from here to Timbuktu. We can all be famous now!

Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole
Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole

Read contributor Matt Bramford’s review of Charlie Le Mindu here, with illustrations by Maryanne Oliver.

Categories ,Alexander McQueen, ,Bex Glover, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Feathers, ,Hairstylist, ,Jewels, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,lfw, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Off Schedule, ,onoff, ,rob ryan, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu by Amelia

Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

And so the circus starts all over again…. in a not particularly auspicious way for little ol’ me, pill as I was nearly run over by a succession of buses rally driving bumper to bumper through Holborn as I was wending my way to my first fashion week show astride my lethal Raleigh Shopper (yes, price Shopper, medications not Chopper. There will be no wheelies on this bike). And then a nasty man in a car called me a ‘stupid caaah’. It all started swimmingly I tells you. Bastard.

At the on/off premises – Victoria House in Bloomsbury – I was met by two young girls bearing brollies as if promoting a car show outside Earl’s Court rather than the uber-trendy off schedule space where all the most hotly tipped designers will show. Inside I was warned not to trip over a step leading to a stuffed deer over which swung, and will swing all week, an intricately papercut sculpture. Rob Ryan, I blame you – papercutting is so very now, it’s even on the light fittings in the press den.

Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole
Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole

Getting into the show proved simple – a charming cockney fella on the door was greeting all the as yet fresh-faced fashionistas with a cheery grin, merrily announcing: “You got a pass love? Don’t matter what kind. Oyster card will do!” Next to the showhall there was a hastily erected memorial to Alexander Mcqueen that looked suspiciously as if it may have been sponsored by apple, touch screens showcasing his catwalk shows interspersed with the occasional app rollcall. A more personal homage was to be found over at the BFC tent, featuring some touching hand written messages.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie Le Mindu was and is principally known as a hair stylist, so it comes as no great surprise that his show was sponsored by copious quantities of hair products and… a wig salon; who provided the large empty pink boxes that everyone is seen touting about the place for the ensuing day, perfectly sized to make a great girly box file. In fact there was so much to take away that I struggled under the load from the very first show. Whoever said there was a recession?

I took my place on the front row next to Guy, editor of Fashion156 Magazine, which is another online fashion magazine. He told me that he had 12 people covering the shows, including backstage photographers. And they should be uploading throughout the day. I was impressed!

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

What can I tell you about Charlie Le Mindu? The show started with a lady bearing a crystal crucifix on her head and things just got better. The black lace bodystockings were merely a foil for the impressive cocoon like wigs and head pieces, constructed from feathers, tassels and all things exotic – most of it was not exactly clothing but defiantly offered a fan-fucking-tastic kick off to fashion week. The models stomped down the runway in royal blue make up, some smeared in deepest black bodypaint. Capes and swinging bags to match your hair? Why, step this way madam.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie is clearly a magnet for the more exotic types of fashionista and there were plenty of strangely dressed people to be ogled, even so early in the morning, including a large man with a bushy beard, sexy black dress, (possibly real) fur stole and glamourous red lipstick. And the best bit about such creatures is that they’re more than happy to pose because they’re all hoping for a few moments of internet glory – and the possibility of flouncing their look from here to Timbuktu. We can all be famous now!

Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole
Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole

Read contributor Matt Bramford’s review of Charlie Le Mindu here, with illustrations by Maryanne Oliver.

Categories ,Alexander McQueen, ,Bex Glover, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Feathers, ,Hairstylist, ,Jewels, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,lfw, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Off Schedule, ,onoff, ,rob ryan, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu

LFW_CharlieLeMindu_01

Who cares if womenswear is wearable? As a gent, sickness I certainly don’t. Hair stylist to the stars, Charlie Le Mindu opened the On|Off shows yesterday – winning zero points for wearability, but a whopping 10 out of 10 for wow factor.

Charlie has been styling hair for shoots and shows for ages now, but his first catwalk show, as part of Blow Presents, was only last year. In the six months between then and now, he’s had time to polish his wares, and this time we had an even deeper delve into his psyche…

LFW_CharlieLeMindu_Illustration
Illustration by Maryanne Oliver

With the sound of church bells welcoming a funeral cortege, the first model appeared with a giant, jewel-encrusted cross atop her sleek black wig. Wearing a most provocative outfit made of lace, Le Mindu’s pieces lie somewhere between your wildest dreams and your darkest nightmares.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_02

As the pounding music kicked in, with screams of ‘CHARLIE” peppered in the track, the stream of models slowly sauntered down the catwalk, expressionless and lost in their own thoughts. The outfits became racier – with one model, wearing a huge hair-trimmed construction, having little but a thick pony tail to hide her modesty.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_03

While Charlie’s SS 2010 show was all about the blonde, AW 2010 was definitely all about black. Black, black black. Black lace, black hair, black shoes and black knickers. The use of any other hues would have ruined the drama of fashion’s favourite colour.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_04

The most prominent theme was undoubtedly death, with crucifixes, ashen skin and hair/head pieces influenced by the mantilla. Whilst some might find Le Mindu’s creations a little on the silly side, the craftsmanship, attention to detail and range of techniques he employs are outstanding. He’s comparable to the few designers who really push the boundaries, and, like dearly beloved McQueen, he toys with raw and emotive subjects. And when it’s not hair, it’s stoles with cuddly-toy heads or bird feathers.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_05

Amongst a hell of a lot of designers who’ve taken to playing it safe in these turbulent financial times, thank GOD for Charlie Le Mindu*.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_06

*Except, if that’s real fur you’re using Charlie, please don’t. It’s the 21st century, and there really isn’t ANY need. Thanks.

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Death, ,Hair, ,London Fashion Week, ,onoff

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: J Maskrey by Amelia

J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.

J Maskrey is responsible for a lot. You know all those tacky glitter tattoos that you can buy in every chemist and pound shop? Well, troche she’s the one to blame. This former make-up artist invented “skin jewellery” over 10 years ago, page when she glued some Swarovski crystals onto an adhesive backing. But those glittery Superdrug rose tattoos just ain’t the same, patient so despite the mass dumbing down of her initial idea J Maskrey has managed to maintain a dazzling career at the epicentre of fashion cooldom, and it is on the catwalk that J Maskrey‘s jewelled masterpieces really glitter.

J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.

Once again man wearing rubber, gimp mask and inflatable wig was front row. In at least his second outfit of the day for J Maskrey’s evening show at Victoria House. Where do these people change? And what on earth was his fashion statement? I can put up with any amount of pain in the name of erm, beauty standing out from the crowd. And believe me I know how much he suffered under those bright runway lights because when he stood up to leave the show the sweat literally flooded out of his sleeves into a puddle on the floor. Nice. Rather you than me – lady posing with the Gimp Fashionista.

Gimp Fashionista at Iris Van Herpen
Gimp Fashionista at Iris Van Herpen.

Gimp Fashionista dripping on a fan at J Maskrey.
Gimp Fashionista dripping on a fan at J Maskrey.

J Maskrey has had a long relationship with uber stylist Judy Blame, and their collaboration continues. Against a curtained stage set the slow moving models posed beautifully at intervals under the bright lighting before gathering en masse at the helm of the catwalk, making this show a dream for good photography.

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey used careful staging and immaculate posing to create a beautiful catwalk show. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

A boy’s smooth back and arms were entirely covered with black glittery shapes, a girl with a severe bobbed haircut revealed a cluster of leopard spots racing across her chest and back, another bared glittered slashes across her breasts, culminating with dangling beads dripping like congealed blood.

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

A demure girl with high neckline and primly bunned hair held her hands gently to her waist, where the light glistened on Swarovski crystals dripping from her delicate fingernails. Gigantic Geisha-inspired headdresses teetered on top of heads.

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

This was a beautiful spectacle, but one where the clothes appeared to come a distant second to the dazzling performance. Looking back it becomes more apparent that there some highly desirable pieces buried beneath all the glitzy showpieces. Take the heavily beaded skullcap and cape, cute little nobbled skate skirt and chain print top – all actually very wearable. And not for nothing did I spot J Maskrey herself wearing the slouchy t-shirt dress with huge glittered logo at the On/Off party. To which I was dragged kicking and screaming “But I don’t do fashion parties anymore… oh okay just for one cocktail then.”

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Needless to say I got in a bad mood very quickly because I really don’t know anyone in fashion anymore, and usually can’t remember anyone’s names or what they actually do, which further exacerbates the situation when they come over to me all chatty. And then my Canon 5D Mark II camera broke down with an error 20 (it does this every now and again, usually when I really REALLY need to use it) so I could no longer hide behind my camera – which I often do as a way of disengaging from situations.

Ladies in the loo at the On/Off party.
Ladies in the loo at the On/Off party.

Luckily it was at this point that the Sugababes arrived so we clambered on a bench to watch them sing before we left. You know what? They were definitely singing live with a good amount of gusto, and they certainly seemed to be enjoying themselves. It was really very sweet. And a good way to end an exceedingly long day, with just one of those small surprises that every fashion week throws up.

Sugababes performing at the On/Off party.
Sugababes performing at the On/Off party.

Categories ,Bex Glover, ,Canon, ,Crystals, ,Fashionista, ,Geisha, ,Gimp, ,Glitter, ,Headdresses, ,J Maskrey, ,Judy Blame, ,menswear, ,onoff, ,Skin Jewellery, ,Sugababes, ,Swarovski, ,Victoria House

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