Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: The Pastel, Petrol and Beige

Paulina_Matuszelanska_Fashion_Week_Poland_Soni_Speight
Paulina Matuszelanska by Soni Speight.

These three designers showed collections in tones of pastels, information pills petrol and beige.

Gareth A Hopkins Marta Gos Golden Thread
Marta Gos by Gareth A Hopkins.

Marta Gos
Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Marta Gos had fun with holes and dangling bits. The strange armour-like silhouettes were rendered wearable in a creamy pastel and buttermilk colour palette.

Paulina Matuszelanska AW'11 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Paulina Matuszelanska by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Paulina Matuszelanska
Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Paulina Matuszelanska showed a very strong collection in lemon yellow, medical camel, mint green and powder blue. There were boxy shoulders aplenty, maxi length pleats and fluffy cropped jumpers – this catwalk show was a rare example of good styling, with slicked back high ponytails and chunky colour block necklaces completing the look. Definitely one of my favourites. Many of the clothes were stuff that I might actually want to wear, hurrah!

Alicja Antoszczyk by Alia Gargum
Alicja Antoszczyk by Alia Gargum.

Alicja Antoszczyk
Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011
Alicja Antoszczyk sent all her models out with hands slipped nonchalantly into pockets. Long rain macs and calf length skirts came in dull gold and petrol blue matt plastic fabrics. Black, powder blue and rosy red lent colour to the remaining layered pieces. A very strong and coherent collection.

Categories ,80s, ,Alia Gargum, ,Alicja Antoszczyk, ,Beige, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Lodz, ,Marta Gos, ,pastels, ,Paulina Matuszelanska, ,Plastic, ,Soni Speight, ,The Golden Thread

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Blow Presents Jane Bowler

Jane Bowler S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton
Jane Bowler S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton.

Jane Bowler is a graduate of the Royal College of Art who works in innovative ways with inexpensive and mundane materials, store and she was the first designer to show at the Blow Presents showcase at London Fashion Week. For her S/S 2012 collection she worked in collaboration with knitwear designers Heather Orr, what is ed Victoria Campbell and Victoria Bulmer to create a stunning group of garments inspired by the story of Icarus. Using plastic and latex with soft block-coloured knitted tops and laddered leggings beneath, sale the collection was fearless and fun.

Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler S/S 2012 by Scarlett Tierney
Jane Bowler S/S 2012 by Scarlett Tierney.

Clothing featured fabulous swishing tassels, curled feather like patterns and tufts of feathers in translucent rainbow hues. Sunglasses came with cute coloured eyebrows attached like question marks, a collaboration with Studio Swine. Tight swimming cap hats and high t-bar platforms were also accessorised with rampant plastic additions, and as the show reached a crescendo we were treated to the most fully feathered piece of all: a huge cape worn by a delightfully curvaceous model.

Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane-bowler-SS12-by-Lisa-Stannard
Jane Bowler S/S 2012 by Lisa Stannard.

I loved the unabashed boldness of this thoroughly unique collection, which amongst the more fantastical elements featured some highly wearable pieces. I look forward to seeing what Jane Bowler does next.

Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jane Bowler S/S 2012 review. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

YouTube Preview Image

Categories ,Blow PR, ,Blow Presents, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Feathers, ,Heather Orr, ,Icarus, ,Jane Bowler, ,knitwear, ,Latex, ,Lisa Stannard, ,LSO St Luke’s, ,Plastic, ,platforms, ,rainbow, ,Royal College of Art, ,Scarlett Tierney, ,Studio Swine, ,Sunglasses, ,Tassels, ,Translucent, ,Victoria Bulmer, ,Victoria Campbell

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu (by Amelia)

Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea
Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea.

Charlie Le Mindu has already done massive headpieces and copious nudity… what could possibly be next? How about dripping blood, nurse Nazi references and CUNT (sprayed onto the back of a model’s head)? Yes, more about this and more was to be our Sunday morning treat at Berlin Syndrome, a show inspired by the WWII decadence of the German Third Reich.

Charlie Le Mindu. Photography by Tim Adey
Charlie Le Mindu. Photography by Tim Adey.

Charlie Le Mindu by Dan Stafford
Charlie Le Mindu by Dan Stafford.

Each season a Charlie Le Mindu ticket grows that little bit hotter… and the queues of people desperate to view his inimitable mix of genius, fantasy and fannies grows ever more clamourous. So it was that whilst waiting for Jazzkatze to start I made a judgement, made my excuses, and headed over to the tiny On/Off venue. These things happen. I knew it would be totally worth it.

Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea
Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea.

But first I had to battle my way into a decent seat. Hot avante garde fashion tends to attract a lot of extravagant characters, each trying to out-outfit the next one.

YouTube Preview Image
Out Outfit You by Bourgeois & Maurice.

So it was that I found myself just a few bodies down from fashion doyenne Daphne Guinnessallegedly attending her only show this season – and a rare LFW sighting of Diane Pernet.

Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Emma Jardine
Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Emma Jardine.

Across the way club kid Daniel Lismore looked uncomfortably squished in one of the huge froufrou contraptions that constitutes his “look”. The delightful (and talented) Natasha Khan of Bat for Lashes looked wonderfully normal in comparison – and had to fight for a front row spot.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Kap Bambino provided the intense soundtrack to this show, a mash up of melodic vocals, pig squeals and a grimy off-kilter baseline. Our first treat? A stripper, dripping with blood from her Violence headgear to her vampirish talons. Her only accessory was an ancient looking metal bag, slung nonchalantly from her shoulder on a thin piece of chain.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

She was followed onto the catwalk by a giant mohican worn with plastic cape and lacy shorts – a cross of gaffa tape the only nod to modesty. More buttery lace, more plastic, more fringing and beading on both men and women. Make up was pale, deathly, fittingly. From the front a plastic fluffy fringed cape looked pervily demure, arms bound down to the sides. From the back it revealed a spray painted phallus and more that I cannot read.

Charlie Le Mindu by Madi
Charlie Le Mindu by Madi.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely WarsCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars.

A moderately wearable lace belted maxi coat was followed by more exposed boobs and a gas mask with a waterfall of hair extruding from the mouth like an alien intervention. More hair as fur, smudged red lips, a smile from a knowing model as she pounded towards the thickly layered ranks of photographers.

Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Natsuki Otani
Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Natsuki Otani.

Charlie Le Mindu Finale Piece by LJG Art & Illustration
Charlie Le Mindu Finale Piece by LJG Art & Illustration.

And finally the denouement, a huge white eagle – a reference to the Third Reich insignia – clutching a blonde be-wigged head, the bird trailing lace and blood to the floor. It was a trail that followed the models back stage as the show ended to the sounds of a porcine massacre and Charlie Le Mindu took his curtain bow in a butcher’s apron, hands bloody. I glanced anxiously over to stylist Tamara Cincik, who was protectively cradling her pregnant belly.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Katie Antoniou’s earlier blog about the same show here, and see more work by Andrea Peterson in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration. There is also a lovely blog featuring Andrea Peterson at work on the creation of her Charlie Le Mindu painting right here.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Ani Saunders, ,Anna Trevelyan, ,Artist Andrea, ,Bat for Lashes, ,berlin, ,Berlin Syndrome, ,Blood, ,Bourgeois & Maurice, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,CUNT, ,Dan Stafford, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Daphne Guinness, ,Diane Pernet, ,Eagle, ,Emma Jardine, ,Hair, ,Insignia, ,Jazzkatze, ,Kap Bambino, ,Katie Antoniou, ,LJG Art & Illustration, ,Madi, ,Madi Illustrates, ,Natasha Khan, ,Natsuki Otani, ,Nudity, ,onoff, ,Out Outfit You, ,Plastic, ,Strippers, ,Tamara Cincik, ,The Lovely Wars, ,Third Reich, ,Tim Adey, ,Wigs, ,WWII

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu (by Amelia)

Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea
Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea.

Charlie Le Mindu has already done massive headpieces and copious nudity… what could possibly be next? How about dripping blood, nurse Nazi references and CUNT (sprayed onto the back of a model’s head)? Yes, more about this and more was to be our Sunday morning treat at Berlin Syndrome, a show inspired by the WWII decadence of the German Third Reich.

Charlie Le Mindu. Photography by Tim Adey
Charlie Le Mindu. Photography by Tim Adey.

Charlie Le Mindu by Dan Stafford
Charlie Le Mindu by Dan Stafford.

Each season a Charlie Le Mindu ticket grows that little bit hotter… and the queues of people desperate to view his inimitable mix of genius, fantasy and fannies grows ever more clamourous. So it was that whilst waiting for Jazzkatze to start I made a judgement, made my excuses, and headed over to the tiny On/Off venue. These things happen. I knew it would be totally worth it.

Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea
Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson aka Artist Andrea.

But first I had to battle my way into a decent seat. Hot avante garde fashion tends to attract a lot of extravagant characters, each trying to out-outfit the next one.

YouTube Preview Image
Out Outfit You by Bourgeois & Maurice.

So it was that I found myself just a few bodies down from fashion doyenne Daphne Guinnessallegedly attending her only show this season – and a rare LFW sighting of Diane Pernet.

Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Emma Jardine
Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Emma Jardine.

Across the way club kid Daniel Lismore looked uncomfortably squished in one of the huge froufrou contraptions that constitutes his “look”. The delightful (and talented) Natasha Khan of Bat for Lashes looked wonderfully normal in comparison – and had to fight for a front row spot.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Kap Bambino provided the intense soundtrack to this show, a mash up of melodic vocals, pig squeals and a grimy off-kilter baseline. Our first treat? A stripper, dripping with blood from her Violence headgear to her vampirish talons. Her only accessory was an ancient looking metal bag, slung nonchalantly from her shoulder on a thin piece of chain.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

She was followed onto the catwalk by a giant mohican worn with plastic cape and lacy shorts – a cross of gaffa tape the only nod to modesty. More buttery lace, more plastic, more fringing and beading on both men and women. Make up was pale, deathly, fittingly. From the front a plastic fluffy fringed cape looked pervily demure, arms bound down to the sides. From the back it revealed a spray painted phallus and more that I cannot read.

Charlie Le Mindu by Madi
Charlie Le Mindu by Madi.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely WarsCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars.

A moderately wearable lace belted maxi coat was followed by more exposed boobs and a gas mask with a waterfall of hair extruding from the mouth like an alien intervention. More hair as fur, smudged red lips, a smile from a knowing model as she pounded towards the thickly layered ranks of photographers.

Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Natsuki Otani
Charlie Le Mindu Berlin Syndrome by Natsuki Otani.

Charlie Le Mindu Finale Piece by LJG Art & Illustration
Charlie Le Mindu Finale Piece by LJG Art & Illustration.

And finally the denouement, a huge white eagle – a reference to the Third Reich insignia – clutching a blonde be-wigged head, the bird trailing lace and blood to the floor. It was a trail that followed the models back stage as the show ended to the sounds of a porcine massacre and Charlie Le Mindu took his curtain bow in a butcher’s apron, hands bloody. I glanced anxiously over to stylist Tamara Cincik, who was protectively cradling her pregnant belly.

Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia GregoryCharlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Charlie Le Mindu A/W 2011 Berlin Syndrome. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Katie Antoniou’s earlier blog about the same show here, and see more work by Andrea Peterson in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration. There is also a lovely blog featuring Andrea Peterson at work on the creation of her Charlie Le Mindu painting right here.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Ani Saunders, ,Anna Trevelyan, ,Artist Andrea, ,Bat for Lashes, ,berlin, ,Berlin Syndrome, ,Blood, ,Bourgeois & Maurice, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,CUNT, ,Dan Stafford, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Daphne Guinness, ,Diane Pernet, ,Eagle, ,Emma Jardine, ,Hair, ,Insignia, ,Jazzkatze, ,Kap Bambino, ,Katie Antoniou, ,LJG Art & Illustration, ,Madi, ,Madi Illustrates, ,Natasha Khan, ,Natsuki Otani, ,Nudity, ,onoff, ,Out Outfit You, ,Plastic, ,Strippers, ,Tamara Cincik, ,The Lovely Wars, ,Third Reich, ,Tim Adey, ,Wigs, ,WWII

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ken dumps Barbie: Greenpeace’s Indonesia Deforestation Campaign

Barbie and Ken by Claire Byrne
Barbie and Ken by Claire Byrne

Ken dumped Barbie. Over trees and endangered tigers. Seriously. You probably already know this, web since the Greenpeace campaign that first revealed this earth-shattering piece of news has been all over the Internet in the last two weeks.

Barbie Crying by Claire Kearns
Barbie Crying by Claire Kearns.

But it’s time to wipe those tears off your keyboard. Not only has this traumatic event turned Ken into quite the eco-warrior and provided some great moments of Twitter comedy, seek but Amelia’s Magazine illustrators have responded, buy information pills providing the greatest collection of illustrations of a chainsaw-wielding Barbie you might ever see in one place.

Barbie with chainsaw by Claire Byrne
Barbie with chainsaw by Claire Byrne

Barbie was dumped by Ken after Greenpeace discovered that her maker, Mattel (and other toy companies like Disney), use packaging produced by a company called Asia Pulp and Paper, part of a huge conglomerate called Sinar Mas, accused of major deforestation in Indonesia. This deforestation is pushing critically endangered species like the Sumatran tiger ever further towards extinction.

Barbie Deforrestation by Anna Blachut
Barbie Deforrestation by Anna Blachut.

This particular Barbie campaign actually only scratches the surface of an investigation into how global toy manufacturers are complicit in Indonesia’s deforestation problem. Watch this brilliant graphicy animation video for an explanation of Greenpeace’s findings:

Toying With Deforestation
YouTube Preview Image

It was a wise move to link the broad issue of deforestation in toy packaging and manufacture to the most famous toy (read ‘most mass produced gender-conditioning piece of plastic’) in the world. It even topped Creative Review’s ‘Nice Work’ list for advertising on the 10th of June. It’s a shame Ken hasn’t embraced his inner rebel enough to more openly blame Mattel rather than his ex over this, but I suppose that’s the job of Greenpeace. Ken is still finding his voice, as his heart wrenching twitter updates show, and I have a feeling he’s gradually unleashing the hitherto dormant revolutionary within. Equally shameful is the fact that the feminist within me finds images of Barbie wielding a tool instead of a handbag strangely satisfying. Let’s just hope that Barbie sees the light, joins Ken and decides to become an eco feminist or something asap.

barbie by karla-perez
Barbie by Karla Perez.

The fact that we live on a planet where rainforest destruction and species extinction is contributed to in even the smallest way by the packaging for a plastic toy is, quite frankly, weird. How did it come to this? Despite a huge movement to increase our awareness of the environmental impact of fashion and food, toys haven’t been touched upon with the same momentum. And yet toys are associated with our most formative years, so an awareness of what goes into their production is essential.

Barbie by Liz Rowland
Barbie by Liz Rowland.

One of my all-time favourite books is Mythologies by Roland Barthes. It was included in the Guardian’s recent 100 Greatest Non Fiction Books list last week, one of only three chosen for the culture category. It investigates the hidden political, economic and cultural ideologies behind everyday aspects of mass culture – from washing powder, to the burlesque dancer, to cars, wine, cheese and plastic.

Barbie logging truck by Claire Byrne
Barbie logging truck by Claire Byrne.

My favourite essay is the one on Toys, where Barthes explores our increasing obsession with plastic toys, as opposed to simple constructions and tools made of natural materials.

Barbie by Novemto Komo
Barbie by Novemto Komo.

The way I understand it, right from childhood we are taken further and further away from the process of making and creating. From day one we’re encouraged to be mindless consumers of complex finished products, emotionally and physically removed from how they were made, who made them and where the materials came from.

Barbie by Zofia Walczak
Barbie by Zofia Walczak.

This is something we could easily continue into adulthood, through the dreamy lifestyle mythologies in fashion and technology advertising. To me this Barbie campaign is an attention-grabbing antidote to this broader cultural issue, as well as a solid evidence-based environmental campaign.

You can check the Greenpeace UK blog for various ways to get involved, the latest of which involves rating and reviewing Barbie’s ‘dirty deforestation habits’ on Amazon (brilliant, do it!).

Categories ,Anna Blachut, ,Asia Pulp and Paper, ,Barbie, ,Claire Byrne, ,Claire Kearns, ,Creative Review, ,deforestation, ,Disney, ,Greenpeace, ,Guardian, ,Illegal, ,Indonesia, ,Karla Perez, ,Ken, ,Liz Rowland, ,Mattel, ,Mythologies, ,Novemto Komo, ,Plastic, ,rainforest, ,Roland Barthes, ,SInar Mas, ,Sumatran Tiger, ,Toys

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Amelia’s Magazine | University College Falmouth Ba Photography Graduate Show 2011 Review

Josie Ainscough
Falmouth Photography degree show Free Range 2011-Josie Ainscough
University College Falmouth took up the basement area at the Truman Brewery. Josie Ainscough was next to the entrance with four very strong images exploring how clothes create identity in the west, doctor even to the point of taking over our facial features in these floral skirt and shirt veils.

Amy Behrens ClarkFalmouth Photography degree show Free Range 2011-Amy Behrens ClarkAmy Behrens ClarkFalmouth Photography degree show Free Range 2011-Amy Behrens Clark
Amy Behrens Clark got busy with photoshop to create intricate patterns out of human bodies that remind us that we have we been digitalised to the point of disconnection. ‘In our culture we have been educated to see our selves as individual and separate beings, treatment when we need to start seeing the earth and all life as a whole.’

Falmouth Photography degree show Free Range 2011-Tessa PearsonTessa Pearson Postcards from Afar
Tessa Pearson Postcards from Afar
Tessa Pearson Postcards from Afar
Tessa Pearson showed Postcards from Afar – composite images made up of ephemera and tourist photos.

Matthew Fessey sex_objects

Sixty Seven People, Sex Objects by Matthew Fessey was an unnerving photographic project and moving installation where pornographic sex shots were layered on top of each other to create a blurred orgy of limbs. Stills were displayed next to a mundane break down of objects in the room where the sex act was taking place.

Proprioception by Tamzin Plummer 3
Proprioception by Tamzin Plummer
Proprioception by Tamzin Plummer
Combining photography with illustration, Proprioception by Tamzin Plummer was a series of intriguing ‘cyborgs’ designed to showcase our intricate entwinement with technology.

Consumed by Kim Clarke_bikerideConsumed by Kim ClarkeFalmouth Photography degree show Free Range 2011-Consumed by Kim Clarke
Kim Clarke created mini installations out of old photographs pasted onto deconstructed cardboard packaging. Consumed was a critique of the way we consume huge amounts of empty commodities in the desperate need to achieve some fictitious reality. By imprinting images of great natural beauty on the inside of these boxes she hopes to alter how we ‘perceive and interpret a photograph.’

Falmouth Photography degree show Free Range 2011-Mark KingFalmouth Photography degree show Free Range 2011-Mark KingFalmouth Photography degree show Free Range 2011-Mark King
I was immediately attracted to Mark King‘s depiction of England’s Green and Pleasant Land because it featured an image of a place called Herne Hill, which is where I grew up. My Herne Hill was in South London but this Herne Hill was a leafy vista – only the title gave the game away: Plastic. Under other beautiful black and white shots were written the location and Cheese Strings, Gulp Thatchers Carlsberg and Diamond White or Coca-Cola. One can only guess at what happened in these serene beauty spots.

Falmouth Photography degree show Free Range 2011-sophie turner boxhandFalmouth Photography degree show Free Range 2011-sophie turner boxhand
Sophie Turner works under the name Boxhand. I must confess that I have no idea what was going on in her bonkers collage of glittery characters in a dilapidated warehouse, but it was very fun.

Aidan Rumble Beechings Axe
Aidan Rumble Beechings Axe
Aidan Rumble was transfixed by the legacy of Beeching’s Axe in 1963, and how the loss of branch railway lines affected the Cornish mining industry. He layered acetates images with the faint ghost of trains past over the top of current photos to great effect.

It was notable that all Falmouth students had their own photography websites, however basic. Hurrah! At bleedin’ last!

Categories ,2011, ,Aidan Rumble, ,Amy Behrens-Clark, ,Beeching’s Axe, ,Boxhand, ,Cheese Strings, ,Coca-Cola, ,Consumed, ,England’s Green and Pleasant Land, ,Free Range, ,Graduate Shows, ,Gulp Thatchers Carlsberg and Diamond White, ,Herne Hill, ,installation, ,Josie Ainscough, ,Kim Clarke, ,Mark King, ,Matthew Fessey, ,photography, ,Plastic, ,Postcards from Afar, ,Proprioception, ,Sex Objects, ,Sixty Seven People, ,Sophie Turner, ,Tamzin Plummer, ,Tessa Pearson, ,Truman Brewery, ,University College Falmouth

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pick Me Up Contemporary Graphic Art Fair 2011: James Jarvis speaks at Mokita

Wisdom of Caleb bare leaves

James Jarvis spoke at Mokita, viagra dosage where he was asked to address the role of illustration in commerce. The insights below have been put together from comments he made both in his talk and in the following conversation with others on the panel of Mokita.

James Jarvis Degree Show poster
James Jarvis’ Brighton Degree Show poster.

A character artist.
The baggage of being an illustrator is confusing so he prefers to think of himself as a graphic artist. His job is a journey into self awareness. He recently found his old degree graduation poster and realised that you can see his style developing even then, more about when it was all done by hand. He has become very well known for drawing funny characters in depressing situations but he doesn’t like being seen as a character artist only.

Sole Inspector by James Jarvis
Sole Inspector by James Jarvis.

He knew the route.
James’ mother was an art history tutor and he knew he wanted to be an illustrator from an early age. The plan was to make kids’ books but nobody wanted his work and editorial art directors thought he was too kiddy in style, viagra so he was stuck in no mans land. But he was accepted within the skateboarding world, where his work was discovered by the forward thinking art directors at The Face. He was lucky in that his images were companions to the articles, and he didn’t really have to answer any briefs. The magazine was a massively influential shop window that gave him credibility in the mainstream.

Caleb toys by James Jarvis for Amos
Caleb toys by James Jarvis for Amos.

ATP Amos concert poster
An Amos collaboration with ATP music festival.

People just want funny characters.
From working with The Face he became involved with clothing brand Silas, and together they created a toy to publicise the brand. It became an object in its own right and soon after he started Amos, his own toy making company; it doesn’t make him much money but he is involved with lots of other projects as a result: he now makes films, t-shirts and curates music festivals. He wants his characters to be more than just toys, avatars for a more substantial world. Even now though, many years later, advertisers still just want to buy into his associations with Streetwear culture and The Face; everyone wants a potato head character. For instance he’s currently working on something to celebrate the 125th anniversary of Coca-Cola. Only the most enlightened art directors ask for something different and new: most just want something he produced a long time ago so it’s up to him to keep pushing ideas forward.

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James Jarvis lino prints. Available to buy online here.

Self publish for sanity.
Making products is a different world to the one of illustration. He started to make ‘plastic illustrations’ from his toys but soon found that he was getting farther and farther away from his unmoderated link to thought. So much intermediate process meant he was at danger of losing his core spirit so to keep sane he now maintains a practice of self published work, which he publishes online. For example he’s been very disciplined, creating The Wisdom of Caleb, a daily cartoon strip for 150 days (this has now been taken offline). He rejoices if he gets a few hundred hits – but it’s important to build up an audience over time, and if you keep your conviction then the work will find that validity. The comic strips are very basic, with no retouching.

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Cartoons for the Wisdom of Caleb.

Back to basics.
He’s been inspired by Roger Hargreaves to create some very minimal characters. He has also been creating a lino print every week in editions of seven, which provides a grassroots connection with his audience that is direct and democratic. He sells the prints directly and finds there’s an honesty in taking them to the post office himself. He’s aware that he’s “highly involved with filling the world with plastic” and it makes him quite uncomfortable. He likes the simplicity and honesty of making things by hand at home, such as resin figures – and using the web to sell them direct. This kind of work never felt accessible when he was at college.

James Jarvis lino work
Working with lino print. All images courtesy of James Jarvis, more can be seen on Flickr.

His greatest hits.
He has sold 10,000 toys over the years and he’s grateful for that because there’s a bond with his audience. He would be stupid not to engage with what people want. But James also concedes admits that he has been massively lucky – tons of people at college were better drawers, and his success has been as much down to circumstance as being clever.

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James Jarvis hosts the Amos Miniature Plastic Workshop at KK outlet in Hoxton between 6-31 May, 2011.

Pick Me Up runs until Sunday 27th March. Read a more in depth article about Mokita here and my transcript of a conversation with Sam Arthur of Nobrow here.

Categories ,Amos, ,Amos Miniature Plastic Workshop, ,atp, ,Character, ,Coca-Cola, ,Graphic Artist, ,illustrator, ,James Jarvis, ,Jim Jarvis, ,KK Outlet, ,Mascot, ,Mokita, ,Outlet, ,Pick Me Up, ,Plastic, ,Roger Hargreave, ,Silas, ,skateboarding, ,Somerset House, ,streetwear, ,The Face, ,Toys, ,Wisdom of Caleb

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