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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Blow Presents Eleanor Amoroso

Eleanor Amoroso LFW SS12 by Gilly Rochester
Eleanor Amoroso S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester.

Eleanor Amoroso‘s show made me nervous. I find it really hard to watch models struggle with shoes and that is exactly what happened to every poor sod as she made that first awkward turn in gigantic knife edge platforms at the top of the catwalk. They may have looked good when not in motion but I am afraid I just don’t get non-functional footwear: I spent the whole show playing will-she-won’t-she in my head and let me tell you that it was a distraction from admiring the clothes. The shoes were designed in collaboration with Julia Kaldy, dosage whose website features some much more wearable designs. Fashion, visit this eh?

Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Eleanor Amoroso S/S 2012 by Lisa Stannard.

Eleanor Amoroso graduated from the University of Westminster last year and has interned with the likes of Charlie Le Mindu, evident in her daring approach to garment construction. For her S/S 2012 collection she worked entirely in monochrome, presenting outfits in either cream (with just the tiniest hint of dip dye) or pitch black. Each piece was a handcrafted exploration of the amazing possibilities of crochet; woven and plaited breast plates fringed with swaying masses of thread that just about covered crucial body parts.

Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Eleanor Amoroso S/S 2012 by Rachel Higham.

Whilst Eleanor Amoroso‘s talent is undoubtable I would love to see a bit more development in terms of garment style; at present I can only see these outfits being worn for fashion shoots when really we should be admiring them on the red carpet.

Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Eleanor Amoroso S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday September 28th, 2011 9:12 am

Categories ,Blow PR, ,Blow Presents, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,crochet, ,Dip-dye, ,Eleanor Amoroso, ,footwear, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Handcrafted, ,Julia Kaldy, ,Lisa Stannard, ,LSO St Luke’s, ,monochrome, ,platforms, ,Rachel Higham, ,University of Westminster

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Blow Presents Fanny and Jessy

Fanny and Jessy S/S 2012 by Diela Maharanie.

Fanny and Jessy have a great name that suits their cute, diagnosis fun clothing, ambulance worn by such luminaries as Lady Gaga, buy information pills Jessie J and Saint Saviour. The design duo hail from Somerset and graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2009 since when they have worked with designers such as PPQ and Jean Charles de Castelbajac before deciding to launch their own collection.

Fanny and Jessy SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Fanny and Jessy S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton.

The Fanny and Jessy S/S 2012 collection featured a strong cowboy influenced aesthetic, translated into a simple colour palette of cream, tomato red, beige and sea green. Pleated wide leg trousers and pencil skirts were worn beneath fringed jackets, with the occasional fringed face covering making an intriguing appearance. Flaps were a central theme throughout, appearing as bibs on tops and as exaggerated detailing on waists. A backless top followed one of the key trends this season, and delightful red suede platforms were worn with large gauge knitted ankle socks. A loose oversized backpack provided a nicely utilitarian feel.

Fanny and Jessy SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Fanny and Jessy SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Fanny and Jessy S/S 2012 by Lisa Stannard.

Two wonderfully delicate print designs by illustrator Lynnie Zulu were used throughout the collection. On a matching trouser suit the symmetrical print, which looked like tribal faces, was featured across the shoulder flap and pocket detailing of a cowboy shirt. A swirling feathered design was repeated on shorts, a shirt dress and a flapping waxed fabric kagoule. I recommend you take a peek at Lynnie Zulu‘s website as it features some fabulous stuff.

Fanny and Jessy S/S 2012 by Rachel Higham.

Fanny and Jessy SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Fanny and Jessy S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

This was a wonderfully original yet wearable collection from a pair of designers to watch. Keep your eyes on Fanny and Jessy.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday September 27th, 2011 1:50 pm

Categories ,Blow PR, ,Blow Presents, ,Cowboy, ,Diela Maharanie, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Fanny and Jessy, ,Fringing, ,Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, ,Jessie J, ,Lady Gaga, ,Lisa Stannard, ,London College of Fashion, ,LSO St Luke’s, ,Lynnie Zulu, ,ppq, ,print, ,Rachel Higham, ,Saint Saviour, ,somerset, ,The Kings Collection

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Blow Presents Jane Bowler

Jane Bowler S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton.

Jane Bowler is a graduate of the Royal College of Art who works in innovative ways with inexpensive and mundane materials, store and she was the first designer to show at the Blow Presents showcase at London Fashion Week. For her S/S 2012 collection she worked in collaboration with knitwear designers Heather Orr, what is ed Victoria Campbell and Victoria Bulmer to create a stunning group of garments inspired by the story of Icarus. Using plastic and latex with soft block-coloured knitted tops and laddered leggings beneath, sale the collection was fearless and fun.

Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Jane Bowler S/S 2012 by Scarlett Tierney.

Clothing featured fabulous swishing tassels, curled feather like patterns and tufts of feathers in translucent rainbow hues. Sunglasses came with cute coloured eyebrows attached like question marks, a collaboration with Studio Swine. Tight swimming cap hats and high t-bar platforms were also accessorised with rampant plastic additions, and as the show reached a crescendo we were treated to the most fully feathered piece of all: a huge cape worn by a delightfully curvaceous model.

Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Jane-bowler-SS12-by-Lisa-Stannard
Jane Bowler S/S 2012 by Lisa Stannard.

I loved the unabashed boldness of this thoroughly unique collection, which amongst the more fantastical elements featured some highly wearable pieces. I look forward to seeing what Jane Bowler does next.

Jane Bowler SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Jane Bowler S/S 2012 review. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday September 27th, 2011 9:47 am

Categories ,Blow PR, ,Blow Presents, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Feathers, ,Heather Orr, ,Icarus, ,Jane Bowler, ,knitwear, ,Latex, ,Lisa Stannard, ,LSO St Luke’s, ,Plastic, ,platforms, ,rainbow, ,Royal College of Art, ,Scarlett Tierney, ,Studio Swine, ,Sunglasses, ,Tassels, ,Translucent, ,Victoria Bulmer, ,Victoria Campbell

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Blow Presents Shinsuke Mitsuoka

Shinsuke Mitsuoka S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Shinsuke Mitsuoka‘s dark vision was named Liberum Arbitrium, viagra approved meaning Free Will. A graduate of Nottingham Trent University, Shinsuke Mitsuoka used large quantities of zips donated by YKK to create a very black collection. A gothic feel was achieved by asymmetrical draping and sheer fabrics which laddered across chests to leave bosoms semi-exposed, or encased forearms to leave shoulders bare, but my favourite parts were the sculpted pieces that bookmarked the show.

Shinsuke Mitsuoka Blow Presents SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Shinsuke Mitsuoka S/S 2012 by Aliyahgator.

First out came a high collared coat dress that covered the face to above the nose, leaving the eyes above to glare down at the catwalk in a modern approximation of a fearsome amazonian warrior. A skirted pelmet splayed out to the sides to create a striking silhouette with armoured legs were exposed at the front and back.

Shinsuke-Mitsuoka-Blow-Presents by Lucy-Wills
Shinsuke Mitsuoka S/S 2012 by Lucy Wills.

Shinsuke Mitsuoka S/S 2012 by Aliyahgator.

Shinsuke Mitsuoka Blow Presents SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Shinsuke Mitsuoka S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Shinsuke Mitsuoka S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

At the end of the collection a bold shouldered dress featured zipped panels sweeping up the front and sides, but the denouement was a fantastic showpiece: zips pronouncing a widened handkerchief skirt which was topped by a gauzy sheer knit top veiling the face up to the eyes.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday September 27th, 2011 7:47 pm

Categories ,Aliyah Owen, ,Aliyahgator, ,Armoured, ,Blow Presents, ,Boobs, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,gothic, ,knit, ,lfw, ,Liberum Arbitrium, ,London Fashion Week, ,LSO St Luke’s, ,Lucy Wills, ,Nottingham Trent University, ,S/S 2012, ,Sculptural, ,Sheer, ,Shinsuke Mitsuoka, ,YKK, ,Zips

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jayne Pierson (featuring Pierson Lawlor)

Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, order illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Oof, visit this site I love a new fashion week site. I took a Boris from the action at Somerset House all the way to Old Street to see Jayne Pierson‘s show at the LSO St Luke’s venue. This historic Anglican church is almost three hundred years old, buy information pills and was rescued by the LSO when controversial plans to turn the beauty into offices were proposed. Thank heavens.

Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Tina Reidy

The church is set in a beautiful garden, and as I sweated my way through it, I thought what a romantic setting for a fashion show. These are thoughts I only have when suffering from sleep deprivation and RFSI (Repetitive Fashion Show Injury). Inside, some of the former glory has gone to make way for inevitable modernisations, but the imposing ceiling and cold stone walls still exist. A catwalk had been temporarily constructed where the aisle would once have been, and a film played on loop at the end of a photography shoot starring a rather dishy ballet dancer. It was all very exciting.

Photography by Amelia Gregory

The show eventually started after the mandatory bunfight for seats and flashbulb shower for Pandemonia. A man whose name I didn’t have a chance to write down explained that, this season, Jayne Pierson had worked with the ballet and we were in for a treat. The models were to be ballet dancers. I almost audibly ‘whooped’ at how refreshing it all was.

Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Models appeared cheekily from behind a partition, moving gracefully down the catwalk en pointe. I know this is one of life’s wonders and people train for years to get this right, but it doesn’t half make me cringe (perhaps that’s Black Swan‘s influence, too). I imagine the agony you put your body through to achieve such a graceful poise.

Photography by Matt Bramford

A mixture of male and female models appeared, wearing Jayne Piersons S/S 2012 collection. This was clearly a collection influenced by dance and drama of all kind. They floated past, some faster than others, some acting a little like they might have been drinking, but nonetheless looking equally as beautiful. The theatrics, as splendid as they were, did distract a little from the clothes, and it’s only since I’ve reviewed my pictures that I’ve got a real flavour for what Jayne Pierson has produced this season.

Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Gilly Rochester

Jayne Pierson‘s now statement shapes flooded the catwalk; exaggerated shoulders, tight waists. Corsets in high-gloss leather were playfully applied to looser garments in similar colours. Micro shorts were leather. A muted graphic print was used on a dangerous bikini and a halterneck onesie. Modest pastel vests had been sexed up with black pom-pom like shoulder details. A bodycon dress carried theatrical orange fringing; sophistication, glamour and exquisite craftsmanship evident in every piece.

Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Jayne Pierson‘s clever use of material and colour was as evident as it has been during her five fashion week outings. Leathers, suedes and silks all flow organically throughout this cohesive collection, helped along by a colour palette of stone, taupe, grey, champagne and sand.

Photography by Amelia Gregory

I’m not sure if it was the Royal Ballet dancing element having an influence, but the clothes were very dramatic, and I did wonder what they might look like modelled in the usual fashion. But a finale that brought the dancers pairing up to perform some dramatic lifts really raised eyebrows and audible gasps echoed around St Luke’s. Sitting across from me, it was clear Caryn Franklin loved it. And I did too.

Photography by Matt Bramford

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday September 23rd, 2011 7:46 pm

Categories ,Amelia, ,ballet, ,Black Swan, ,Caryn Franklin, ,catwalk, ,dance, ,Derek Lawlor, ,drama, ,En Pointe, ,Front Row, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Jayne Pierson, ,leather, ,LSO St Luke’s, ,Matt Bramford, ,Onesie, ,Pandemonia, ,review, ,RFSI, ,Royal Ballet, ,S/S 2012, ,Suede, ,Tina Reidy, ,Womenswear

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