Amelia’s Magazine | S/S 2011 Press Days – An illustrated round-up


Ada Zanditon, website like this illustrated by Sara Chew

Wahoooo! Summer is finally here. No really, dosage it is. Seriously I don’t care how damp and dreary it is outside that office window, summer is most definitely here. I’m toasty warm and looking at shorts, t-shirts and dresses ranging from ethereal to barely there. Skipping round London in the increasingly cold weather this can be hard to believe, but that’s how it goes. Here’s a little look at some of the summer outfits I’ve been looking at…

Ada Zanditon
Held eight stories up in Holborn with a stunning view out over the Thames to the Oxo Tower, Ada showed her latest collection. A quick chat with the designer revealed a charming, intelligent woman and in her own words ‘geeky’. Who else would be so inspired by maths and formulas that they borrow text books from libraries? Well if that’s where inspiration comes from, long may it last. Ada is not just a lovely person but also incredibly talented. Three dimensional sculptural pyramids burst forth from the intelligently structured garments.

Even the prints were inspired by fractal geometry and swept across many garments from a particularly stunning floor length bias cut 1930s dress with backless detail to a leather minidress complete with a chiffon front panel. Hard seaming was juxtaposed with soft fabrics and details. The jewellery carried the same prints as the dress and were another hard counterpoint to some of the softness. Look out for more on Ada’s ethical collection in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Giorgio Armani

Armani called and off to Bond Street I went. Giorgio showed some great pieces with open weave jackets and low-breaking double-breasted jackets for the men, soft and light in beige, grey and smoke. T-shirts emphasised the lightness with sheer elements. Maybe this is a way to get the ‘heavage’ out without looking like a modern day medallion man. The shoes and accessories were simple and classic, from a soft leather briefcase to a brown woven leather shoe catching my eye in particular. Suede and salmon skin belts helped to further soften the tone. All very simple and invoking a cool Italian summers evening.

On the far side of the partition was the womenswear. Strong tailoring was paired with sheer blouses in varying shades of blue and deep purple. Skirts were long and flared slightly to the hem, though I will admit it was the shoes and accessories that stood out. High perspex wedges with wooden platforms excuded both freshness and class. Chunky cuffs, twisted silver necklaces and amulets of large dark blue/black stones hung on leather and fabric. Powerful, yet clean and sophisticated.

Emporio Armani

Illustration by Stéphanie Thieullent
Emporio, the delinquent nephew of Giorgio, was my next visit. There may have been a similar colour palette across the brands, but that’s pretty much where the similarities ended. No Giorgio man is ever going to be seen in a chainlink bondage harness. The use of sheer panels as highlights was also shared, this time showing off what one imagines will be gym-honed biceps. The highlight for me was a double-fronted crock effect suit. Hiding underneath the croc, a layer of leather gave the hint of something more to come.

Draping and ruffles were mixed with simple clean lines in womenswear. A grey and purple halterneck knee length dress particularly appealed, not to mention vertiginous heels. A dainty black chiffon bow, gave the vampiest pieces a demure side. Combining both the soft and the sharp, a draped jersey dress was teamed with a pale grey cap sleeve tailored jacket. It’s youthful and energetic but with a business edge.

Paul Costelloe

Illustration by Karolina Burdon

Showing menswear for the third season Paul opened London Fashion Week with a strong summer collection including short suits, lightweight long coats, and intricate print details. The menswear of this brand is growing on a season by season basis and whilst the formalwear is available in stockists such as John Lewis and Austin Reed, it’s hoped the casualwear and the odd catwalk piece should start hitting the shops soon.


Illustration by Natsuki Otani

You can see reviews of Paul’s collections by Matt and Amelia here and here.

Snake & Dagger

This London based denim company are growing stronger and stronger. Having trained in Japan, they hope to bring a more traditional feel to the denim market. The quality of the denim and the range of finishes are exquisite and the designers behind the brand bring together the best of their training and the city of London to create a unique look.

Aqua

Illustration by Joana Faria

Wherever you thought you were going to buy your Christmas party dress, forget it. Scrub that idea now. Go straight to Aqua and get yourself sorted. This Christmas’ collection ‘Out to Sleigh’ is affordable glamour at its best.

The pieces are daringly cut but clever and in no way trashy. More importantly, whilst you’ve been eyeing up that dress on the high street for the last three weeks so has every other girl in your office, but it’s unlikely you’ll be in the same number if you visit Aqua.

Morphe

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Having previously shown in India, Morphe is thankfully launching in the UK. Playing with shape and form, the pieces are both dramatic and cutting edge. Born from countless hours of work, the statement pieces are surprisingly easy to wear, if somewhat out there.

However, the true gems in the collection include a one shoulder dress with silver trim along the neckline. Creating more than a simple point of interest this is a brand to watch as they develop their continued success in India.

Asher Levine

This was a fantastic collection from a burgeoning menswear designer. In particular, the asymmetric leather biker jackets were right on trend. Using differing leathers as well as digital printing, Asher showed a dynamic and contemporary collection.

Eleanor Amoroso

Most certainly one to watch. Eleanor graduated this summer from the University of Westminster. Her work with fringing has to be seen to be believed. Genuinely unique and fresh, I can only hope the future holds big things for Amoroso. This is one young designer who definitely needs to be nourished.

There were more…far more people that I saw during the press days. From the sublime to the ridiculous and everything inbetween. Trying to contain yourself when browsing all these wonders is a challenge, as is trying to get enough photos and remember everything. But I can safely say S/S 2011 is going to be a very, very good season.

All photography by Nick Bain

Categories ,Ada Zanditon, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustratio, ,Aqua by Aqua, ,Asher Levine, ,Blow PR, ,Bond Street, ,Eleanor Amoroso, ,Emporio Armani, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Giorgio Armani, ,Joana Faria, ,Karolina Burdon, ,london, ,menswear, ,Morphe, ,Natsuki Otani, ,Paul Costelloe, ,Press days, ,S/S 2011, ,Sara Chew, ,Snake & Dagger, ,Spring Summer, ,Stéphanie Thieullent, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Blow Presents Eleanor Amoroso

Eleanor Amoroso LFW SS12 by Gilly Rochester
Eleanor Amoroso S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester.

Eleanor Amoroso‘s show made me nervous. I find it really hard to watch models struggle with shoes and that is exactly what happened to every poor sod as she made that first awkward turn in gigantic knife edge platforms at the top of the catwalk. They may have looked good when not in motion but I am afraid I just don’t get non-functional footwear: I spent the whole show playing will-she-won’t-she in my head and let me tell you that it was a distraction from admiring the clothes. The shoes were designed in collaboration with Julia Kaldy, dosage whose website features some much more wearable designs. Fashion, visit this eh?

Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
eleanor amoroso S/S 2012 by Lisa Stannard
Eleanor Amoroso S/S 2012 by Lisa Stannard.

Eleanor Amoroso graduated from the University of Westminster last year and has interned with the likes of Charlie Le Mindu, evident in her daring approach to garment construction. For her S/S 2012 collection she worked entirely in monochrome, presenting outfits in either cream (with just the tiniest hint of dip dye) or pitch black. Each piece was a handcrafted exploration of the amazing possibilities of crochet; woven and plaited breast plates fringed with swaying masses of thread that just about covered crucial body parts.

Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso S/S 2012 by Rachel Higham.
Eleanor Amoroso S/S 2012 by Rachel Higham.

Whilst Eleanor Amoroso‘s talent is undoubtable I would love to see a bit more development in terms of garment style; at present I can only see these outfits being worn for fashion shoots when really we should be admiring them on the red carpet.

Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eleanor Amoroso S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Blow PR, ,Blow Presents, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,crochet, ,Dip-dye, ,Eleanor Amoroso, ,footwear, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Handcrafted, ,Julia Kaldy, ,Lisa Stannard, ,LSO St Luke’s, ,monochrome, ,platforms, ,Rachel Higham, ,University of Westminster

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Amelia’s Magazine | Clemency – Je t’aime (moi non plus)

Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.

I knew nothing about South African born Jacob Kimmie before reading Rachael Oku’s excellent interview with him on this very website, information pills posted just prior to London Fashion Week. Jacob Kimmie is self-taught and has made a name for himself through sheer hard work and determination – he believes that this, and not a university training, has brought him to where he is today.

In yet another room in the Tardis-like Freemasons’ Hall I was seated behind lady Baby-leg once more, proudly placed on the front row like the reining mascot of cool.

Baby-leg Girl at Jacob Kimmie.
Baby-leg Girl at Jacob Kimmie. I have got a pen in my mouth.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Close up of the BABY-LEGS.

Unfortunately her pouffed hair (re-pouffed several times to maintain volume through the short catwalk show) obscured much of my view, but I can tell you that Kimmie’s Pilgrim show started with a hooded lady.

jacob kimmie
Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Jacob Kimmie hooded lady. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

This polo-neck was seriously out of control. “Spiritual & Enlightened & Monastic” was the header to the slip of paper on our seats; a mammoth amount to encompass in one collection surely; and all this inspiration from hearing just one funky tune! (read Rachael’s interview for more on Kimmie’s inspiration). Indeed, veils worn by several of the models did a fair job of creating a beautifully elegant and oddly monastic silhouette alongside knits and marabous in fabulous monochrome black and cream swing shapes, all worn by ladies adorned in the most delightful cutaway butterfly masks, designed in leather by Ginta Siceva.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The best was reserved for last though, when a lady in a long white dress calming glided out bearing a surprised but placid baby in a beautiful metallic pearlised papoose. You should have heard the coos. Now where can we buy one of those?

Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Oops-a-daisy!

Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.

I knew nothing about South African born Jacob Kimmie before reading Rachael Oku’s excellent interview with him on this very website, malady posted just prior to London Fashion Week. Jacob Kimmie is self-taught and has made a name for himself through sheer hard work and determination – he believes that this, and not a university training, has brought him to where he is today.

In yet another room in the Tardis-like Freemasons’ Hall I was seated behind lady Baby-leg once more, proudly placed on the front row like the reining mascot of cool.

Baby-leg Girl at Jacob Kimmie.
Baby-leg Girl at Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Tim Adey. I have got a pen in my mouth.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Close up of the BABY-LEGS.

Unfortunately her pouffed hair (re-pouffed several times to maintain volume through the short catwalk show) obscured much of my view, but I can tell you that Kimmie’s Pilgrim show started with a hooded lady.

jacob kimmie
Photography by Tim Adey.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Jacob Kimmie hooded lady. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

This polo-neck was seriously out of control. “Spiritual & Enlightened & Monastic” was the header to the slip of paper on our seats; a mammoth amount to encompass in one collection surely; and all this inspiration from hearing just one funky tune! (read Rachael’s interview for more on Kimmie’s inspiration). Indeed, veils worn by several of the models did a fair job of creating a beautifully elegant and oddly monastic silhouette alongside knits and marabous in fabulous monochrome black and cream swing shapes, all worn by ladies adorned in the most delightful cutaway butterfly masks, designed in leather by Ginta Siceva.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The best was reserved for last though, when a lady in a long white dress calming glided out bearing a surprised but placid baby in a beautiful metallic pearlised papoose. You should have heard the coos. Now where can we buy one of those?

Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Oops-a-daisy!

Alison Clemency-Buddenhagen’s first independent label, cheapClemency’ is now set for its second season.  Launched last year and already rubbing shoulders with avid Knightsbridge shoppers in Harvey Nichols, ‘Clemency’ has been tipped as a label to look out for this year.

To say the designer’s CV is impressive would be an understatement and the woman behind the label could certainly inspire a whole other article. Alison Clemency-Buddenhagen graduated with a BA Honours degree in Design from Central St Martin’s School of Art and Design. Whilst studying she worked for the ethical designer and eco campaigner, Katharine Hamnett. Amid the bustling competition of London’s fashion breeding ground, her degree show earned Alison positive coverage from the press including front-page coverage from the International Herald Tribune.  A delightful fashion/art amalgamation ensued, when one of the pieces from this collection was shown alongside the work of a fledgling Damien Hirst.

In a career that has seen Clemency-Buddenhagen secure design posts for Armani, Trussardi, Calvin Klein and Burberry, to name but a few, it is no surprise that her first independent label reflects a well mastered skill and appreciation of fabric and cut. Alison also worked as a music journalist and has interviewed a diverse mix of artists, such as Radiohead, Nirvana, Massive Attack and Janet Jackson.

‘Clemency’ actualises the designer’s artistic musings and well-honed skills, in a cleverly understated manner. The Spring Summer 2010 collection, recently launched in Montaigne Market, is effortlessly feminine with an edge.  There is a nod to swinging London and her ladylike Parisian sister, with a faint streak of street savvy New Yorker running through the collection.

Dainty feminine frills sit prettily alongside studded leather.  The colour palette is muted dove grey, ivory, fawn… with the detailing and accessories doing the talking. Leather biker caps punctuate silk ruffled dresses.  Spotting the little details in the collection is a joy, from the hand embroidered borders to the tattered edges and fraying hemlines. The embellishments are rusted and antique looking, giving the garments a vintage mood. The Brigitte Bardot influence on the collection is striking; the felt signature hats and tousled ruffles along hems instantly evoke images of that famous nude coloured pout.

The iconic Joy Division album artwork for ‘Unknown Pleasures’ also proved to be an inspiration for the collection.

The artwork depicting white linear topography over a stark black background generated the idea behind the beautifully engineered dresses. The origami folds create a jagged silhouette, feminized by a carefully constructed cut.

The collection has an atmospheric quality.  Inspired by effortlessly chic Jane Birkin, the garments hang with the same spirit of cool nonchalance. From sheer gloves to bare arm to military influenced leather jackets with embellished lapels. Outfits playfully twirl from Boudoir inspired chiffon pleats, to cheeky piquet polos and silk couture shorts. These pieces are at odds with the idea of a one-dimensional woman. The fabrics give the wearer permission to be feminine and sexy, comfortable and edgy, designer clad and decadently vintage.

Alison Clemency-Buddhagen’s humbling experience in the fashion world has obviously helped her to hone her skills and the collection is technically striking. The wide range of influences and moods evoked by the collection reveal a deep seated knowledge of art and culture.

Autumn Winter 2010 proves to be equally interesting. With whispers of next season’s collection including a flash of David Bowie for inspiration, it makes any fashion enthusiast with a penchant for music weak at the knees.

Categories ,Alison Clemency-Buddenhagen, ,Becca Kitson, ,Brigitte Bardot, ,Burberry, ,Calvin Klein, ,Central St Martins, ,Clemency, ,David Bowie, ,fashion, ,Harvey Nichols, ,Jane Birkin, ,Janet Jackson, ,joy division, ,Massive Attack, ,S/S 2010

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