Matt Bramford

Amelia’s Magazine | Yifang Wan, Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

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Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

Fashion Week A/W 2013 got off to a cracking start on Friday, for anybody who actually turned up. I didn’t, thanks to the effects of an anti-Valentine’s cocktail binge, instead spent the evening in bed with fish and chips and half a bottle of Rioja. So it was Saturday morning where my season started, heading as I did to this season’s Fashion Scout Merit Award winner – Yifang Wan.


Photography by Amelia Gregory

Previous Merit Award winners including David Koma, Felder Felder, William Tempest and Leutton Postle have all gone on to establish successful labels and the pressure of such previous acclaim must be terrifying — but its effects weren’t evident in this polished collection by Yifang Wan.


Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink


All other photography by Matt Bramford

Record numbers packed the ‘white room’ of the Freemasons’ Hall, and so my view of the show was framed by a diminutive Frenchman wielding a vogue.fr microphone like a maniac and a very excitable girl with masses of hair. Her head was all over the place trying to secure a good shot and I was forced to perform a strange sort of swaying dance with my zoom lens, not unlike an Emperor penguin.


Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

I’d briefly taken an interest in Wan‘s work when the Merit prize was awarded at the beginning of the year, and her previous collections draw inspiration from her Asian heritage and long, draped silhouettes dominate her previous outings. So it was no surprise, in the best possible way, to see these themes continued for A/W 2013, with inspiration from performance artist ‪Marina Abramović‬, most famous for sitting in a smock and staring at New Yorkers in the MOMA for 700 hours.

Only four rich colours featured in this collection – deep blue, green, red and black in thick fabrics. Jackets came with triangular slices removed almost with abandon as fabrics draped asymmetrically and architecturally. Almost every piece skimmed the floor, while fabric swayed and draped in different directions with emphasis on Far Eastern cuts. Each piece was accessorised with intriguing angular sculptural pieces, some worn around necks, others carried almost like weaponry.

Yifang Wan is no stranger to awards, having won the L’Oreal Professionel Award at Saint Martins as an MA student. Her £25,000 prize this season will hopefully propel the designer’s label in the direction it deserves.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday February 19th, 2013 1:31 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,A/W’13, ,catwalk, ,Central Saint Martins, ,East, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Kimono, ,marina abramovic, ,Matt Bramford, ,Merit Award, ,Orient, ,review, ,Yifang Wan

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Amelia’s Magazine | YMC: London Collections: Men S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

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YMC S/S 2014 by Natasha Likes Tea

Fraser Moss and Jimmy Collins borrowed legendary designer Raymond Loewy‘s slogan ‘you must create‘ to launch their label back in 1995. The brand constantly evolves, better known by the acronym YMC, but the ethos behind Loewy’s words resonate through the heart of the clothing label even today.


All photography by Matt Bramford

A YMC show feels a bit like respite on the London Collections: Men line-up. The Corbusian mantra ‘form follows function’ runs through the core, and to judge them against Craig Green or Astrid Andersen would be totally missing the point. Relaxed tailoring with a modern edge, minimal silhouettes and unassuming, stylish, wearable separates have become the brand’s signatures.

This season the YMC boys took over the Old Sorting Office where I’d previously seen Topman Design. I derived pretty quickly that this was going to be right up my straße in comparison. A quietly confident crowd saw striped blazers and bombers with matching shorts, fusing the brand’s utilitarian aesthetic with a fun summer flavour.


YMC S/S 2014 by Natasha Likes Tea

These bold opening offerings were quickly followed by the brand’s unmistakable denims, tees and casual shirts. A quilted jacket was given a modern twist with a haphazard, swirling design in Chombray. Crisp, linen shirts featured oversized polka dots and revealed intricate, childlike patterns on the reverse. Sportswear complimented these subtle twists, from tapered joggers to sleeveless bomber designs with zip pockets. Floral shirts were worn effortlessly.

Oversized checks then made an appearance in subtle blues and greens. Basic white t-shirts with luscious marine-blue gradient hems made me yearn for a decent fucking summer.

A range of jackets closed the show: a blue overcoat with synched hood and sleeves, a play on the French utilitarian jacket and an oversized overcoat-cum-poncho with slits in the sides to expose arms.

Many a menswear designer could learn a thing or two from YMC‘s inimitable, laid-back blend of cool.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday June 28th, 2013 9:55 am

Categories ,fashion, ,LCM, ,LCMSS14, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Natasha Likes Tea, ,Old Sorting Office, ,SS14, ,YMC

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ziad Ghanem: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

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Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Helena Maratheftis

Ziad Ghanem‘s catwalk shows are always momentous: massively oversubscribed, a cat-fight to get into and an array of weird and wonderful creatures desperate to get a glimpse of what the ‘cult couturier’ has delivered this season.


Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Michael Arnold

So imagine my surprise when I arrived a mere fifteen minutes late to find that the show had already started. I darted up the Freemasons’ Hall‘s stairs and the vivacious models were already wowing the crowds. It was a struggle to take pictures between the illustrious millinery of Ziad‘s fans; the pictures that feature here aren’t amazing, particularly since you can’t actually see much of the clothes…


All photography by Matt Bramford

As always, it’s impossible to define this collection in terms of trends or style. It would perhaps be easier to talk about what didn’t appear – you won’t find any tailored trenches or wearable basics here. Instead, Ziad is notorious, infamous and celebrated for frocks that defy seasonality. His blend of couture is one of the rare displays of truly unique craftsmanship at fashion week.

To describe the music as eclectic would be a massive understatement. Munroe Bergdorf had put together a mammoth mixtape of hits across the decades, most of which I now can’t remember so I’ve made a note to make more notes next season. I do remember David Bowie‘s Fashion, George Michael‘s Too Funky and Duran Duran‘s Notorious, tracks synonymous with the catwalk but given a different feel in the majestic setting of the Freemasons’ Hall.


Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Helena Maratheftis

Effervescent models strode one after the other to rapturous applause and deafening whoops. This particular collection had been inspired by Andy Warhol‘s superstar transvestite Candy Darling, star of Flesh and muse of The Velvet Underground. Lavish make-up featured on every model, with Ziad‘s boys wearing as much as his girls. There were hints of the 1980s with Boy George-esque layering and vibrant African patterns.

Some dresses fitted so tightly that some models were forced to walk more slowly than others, while other pieces nipped at the waist but flourished at the hips. A completely diverse selection of fabrics were on offer – couture lace, organza, translucent contrasts and painted cottons. A terrifying model came out waving feathers… with her knockers out and doing a bird impression. Christ, this is hard work. Maybe just look at the pictures. Not that they do this collection any justice.

Monty Python‘s Always Look on the Bright Side of Life accompanied the finale, another unexpected twist as if we needed any more, but an uplifting statement and a glorious finish to this fashion week spectacle.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday February 22nd, 2013 11:38 am

Categories ,A/W’13, ,boy george, ,couture, ,David Bowie, ,Duran Duran, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Feathers, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,George Michael, ,Helena Maratheftis, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Michael Arnold, ,Monty Python, ,Munroe Bergdorf, ,Tits, ,Womenswear, ,Ziad Ghanem

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ziad Ghanem: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

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Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Helena Maratheftis

Ziad Ghanem‘s catwalk shows are always momentous: massively oversubscribed, a cat-fight to get into and an array of weird and wonderful creatures desperate to get a glimpse of what the ‘cult couturier’ has delivered this season.


Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Michael Arnold

So imagine my surprise when I arrived a mere fifteen minutes late to find that the show had already started. I darted up the Freemasons’ Hall‘s stairs and the vivacious models were already wowing the crowds. It was a struggle to take pictures between the illustrious millinery of Ziad‘s fans; the pictures that feature here aren’t amazing, particularly since you can’t actually see much of the clothes…


All photography by Matt Bramford

As always, it’s impossible to define this collection in terms of trends or style. It would perhaps be easier to talk about what didn’t appear – you won’t find any tailored trenches or wearable basics here. Instead, Ziad is notorious, infamous and celebrated for frocks that defy seasonality. His blend of couture is one of the rare displays of truly unique craftsmanship at fashion week.

To describe the music as eclectic would be a massive understatement. Munroe Bergdorf had put together a mammoth mixtape of hits across the decades, most of which I now can’t remember so I’ve made a note to make more notes next season. I do remember David Bowie‘s Fashion, George Michael‘s Too Funky and Duran Duran‘s Notorious, tracks synonymous with the catwalk but given a different feel in the majestic setting of the Freemasons’ Hall.


Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Helena Maratheftis

Effervescent models strode one after the other to rapturous applause and deafening whoops. This particular collection had been inspired by Andy Warhol‘s superstar transvestite Candy Darling, star of Flesh and muse of The Velvet Underground. Lavish make-up featured on every model, with Ziad‘s boys wearing as much as his girls. There were hints of the 1980s with Boy George-esque layering and vibrant African patterns.

Some dresses fitted so tightly that some models were forced to walk more slowly than others, while other pieces nipped at the waist but flourished at the hips. A completely diverse selection of fabrics were on offer – couture lace, organza, translucent contrasts and painted cottons. A terrifying model came out waving feathers… with her knockers out and doing a bird impression. Christ, this is hard work. Maybe just look at the pictures. Not that they do this collection any justice.

Monty Python‘s Always Look on the Bright Side of Life accompanied the finale, another unexpected twist as if we needed any more, but an uplifting statement and a glorious finish to this fashion week spectacle.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday February 22nd, 2013 11:38 am

Categories ,A/W’13, ,boy george, ,couture, ,David Bowie, ,Duran Duran, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Feathers, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,George Michael, ,Helena Maratheftis, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Michael Arnold, ,Monty Python, ,Munroe Bergdorf, ,Tits, ,Womenswear, ,Ziad Ghanem

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Amelia’s Magazine | Mark Fast: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

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Mark Fast S/S 2014 by Krister Selin

Mark Fast‘s S/S 2014 outing at Somerset House on Saturday was a far cry from what he delivered last season. Gone were floor-sweeping full feather skirts and asymmetric capes. This season Fast returned to his figure-hugging, unforgiving knits that captured imagination and intrigue.


All photography by Matt Bramford

In my honest opinion it had all gone a bit Julien Macdonald, so I was glad to see this triumphant comeback. The Black Swan-esque skintight caps were banished and made way for enormous, backcombed, haphazard, grungy hair dos – the theme for this rave of a collection. Hedonistic techno, grunge and bright blue skies in teen shows of the 1990s all had a part to play in this collection. Acid greens and pale blues were combined to form super tight separates worn with knickers. Neon yarns had been whipped into a frenzy to create Fast‘s unique bodycon dresses, styled with chunky patent boots and black tight socks. Each piece was SO tight that it left me wondering if Fast had actually woven them around the provocative models.


Mark Fast S/S 2014 by Krister Selin

It was a colourful journey from black to the aforementioned acid greens that made way for pale, luxury blues, referencing the ‘water colour flashbacks’ of said 1990s television. I can’t put it any better than the show notes, that read that this collection was a mash up of ‘The Craft crocheted, Kurt and Courtney knitting and Aaliyah underwater’. It was an matchless mix of calm and chaos, and it looks like our love affair with the 1990s will continue for some time yet.

Written by Matt Bramford on Thursday September 19th, 2013 1:41 pm

Categories ,catwalk, ,knitwear, ,Krister Selin, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mark Fast, ,Matt Bramford, ,review, ,Show Space, ,SS14, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Mary Katrantzou: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

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Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Janneke de Jong

Allow me to depict the glamour of fashion week for you. My friends go green with envy when I say I’m ‘doing’ fashion week (or at least they used to, until they saw the state it left me in). My family start ‘wooing’ at the mere mention of it, baffled as to how a coal miner’s son is even allowed in to these places. I’m surprised they haven’t written a letter to the British Fashion Council asking them if they’ve gone mad.


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Lesley Barnes

Well, here’s how glamorous it is. I began day 5 – Tuesday – by dragging myself out of bed and squeezing myself onto the tube. Sweat poured down my face as I made the not easy decision as to whether to nestle into someone’s armpit or perversely gyrate against somebody’s back. I arrived at the Old Billingsgate venue at 8.30. I joined the standing queue, in the freezing cold, in which I waited for an hour trying to avoid idle chitchat with neighbouring standees. The sun glared on my face in an effort to render me blind. By the time we were allowed into the venue, we were herded like cattle onto a balcony overlooking the show, seats still visible. I felt like a child looking through a closed sweet shop window. Even the balcony was oversubscribed and I was elbowed from all directions. Not for the first time.


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I could moan for a lot longer, but occasionally you see a show that makes it all worth it. Yes, my friends, it’s time for me to gush about Mary Katrantzou again.

I genuinely believe there isn’t anybody on the London Fashion Week schedule who is as inspiring, revolutionary and innovative as our Mary. There really is no wonder that it’s a scrum to get in, that social media goes wild post-show or that people fall to the floor at the mere mention of her name. Well, that last one I made up, but with the mighty Wintour in attendance the show kicked off and the room fell deathly silent. This season, Mary discovers the beauty in everyday items. Pencils, crayons, spoons and chess pieces are elevated to a sublime status. The invitation I had so carefully clung too in the queue – lenticular no less – featured a spectrum of crayons. It was this spectrum that would unfold in the show.


All photography by Matt Bramford

The first pieces in ivory reminded us of Mary’s unique silhouettes, not that we needed to be reminded. Structured tailoring of a contemporary nature was influenced by Victorian techniques, with exaggerated shoulders and bustle-like elements. Prints featured large spoons and coat hangers, transforming household staples into an iconic items.

Next came the hues – petrol blue, rich red, yellow and green numbers appeared. This season, for the first time, Mary presented ‘matching’ outfits – models wore the same colour head-to-toe. The humble HB pencil was repeated to create a bold, geometric print; a classic watch became the centrepiece of a striking cropped dress.


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Lesley Barnes

The fashion world mourned the death of François Lesage in December last year – head of Lesage, one of the last French haute couture embroidery houses. It is a fitting tribute that the house has worked with one of our brightest stars this season: the first time it has ever worked with a London designer. ‘No sequin is left unturned’ says Mary, which is pretty evident when you see these pieces. Body-con dresses were embellished with hundreds and thousands of sequins and jewels, and my photographs (and any that I’ve seen online) don’t do these pieces justice, which brought audible gasps to Old Billingsgate.


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Sarah Jayne Draws


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Nicola Ellen

There was a hint of old-school Versace in some of the prints, although I say that cautiously because I’ve been thinking that about everything since that infamous H&M collaboration. What this collection really sold was Mary’s inimitable style, whilst still being capable of offering something entirely different. At fashion week you generally find a really good print designer whose silhouettes could do with a bit of work, or vice-versa. But with Mary, you get both.


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Hail Mary!

Oh, also – here’s that invite for fellow print pervs. Just wonderful.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday February 24th, 2012 12:59 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Anna Wintour, ,AW12, ,Balcony, ,catwalk, ,François Lesage, ,Hail Mary!, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Lesage, ,Lesley Barnes, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Matt Bramford, ,Old Billingsgate, ,Pencils, ,review, ,Spoons, ,topshop, ,Typewriter, ,Versace

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Amelia’s Magazine | Mary Katrantzou: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

by


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Janneke de Jong

Allow me to depict the glamour of fashion week for you. My friends go green with envy when I say I’m ‘doing’ fashion week (or at least they used to, until they saw the state it left me in). My family start ‘wooing’ at the mere mention of it, baffled as to how a coal miner’s son is even allowed in to these places. I’m surprised they haven’t written a letter to the British Fashion Council asking them if they’ve gone mad.


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Lesley Barnes

Well, here’s how glamorous it is. I began day 5 – Tuesday – by dragging myself out of bed and squeezing myself onto the tube. Sweat poured down my face as I made the not easy decision as to whether to nestle into someone’s armpit or perversely gyrate against somebody’s back. I arrived at the Old Billingsgate venue at 8.30. I joined the standing queue, in the freezing cold, in which I waited for an hour trying to avoid idle chitchat with neighbouring standees. The sun glared on my face in an effort to render me blind. By the time we were allowed into the venue, we were herded like cattle onto a balcony overlooking the show, seats still visible. I felt like a child looking through a closed sweet shop window. Even the balcony was oversubscribed and I was elbowed from all directions. Not for the first time.


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I could moan for a lot longer, but occasionally you see a show that makes it all worth it. Yes, my friends, it’s time for me to gush about Mary Katrantzou again.

I genuinely believe there isn’t anybody on the London Fashion Week schedule who is as inspiring, revolutionary and innovative as our Mary. There really is no wonder that it’s a scrum to get in, that social media goes wild post-show or that people fall to the floor at the mere mention of her name. Well, that last one I made up, but with the mighty Wintour in attendance the show kicked off and the room fell deathly silent. This season, Mary discovers the beauty in everyday items. Pencils, crayons, spoons and chess pieces are elevated to a sublime status. The invitation I had so carefully clung too in the queue – lenticular no less – featured a spectrum of crayons. It was this spectrum that would unfold in the show.


All photography by Matt Bramford

The first pieces in ivory reminded us of Mary’s unique silhouettes, not that we needed to be reminded. Structured tailoring of a contemporary nature was influenced by Victorian techniques, with exaggerated shoulders and bustle-like elements. Prints featured large spoons and coat hangers, transforming household staples into an iconic items.

Next came the hues – petrol blue, rich red, yellow and green numbers appeared. This season, for the first time, Mary presented ‘matching’ outfits – models wore the same colour head-to-toe. The humble HB pencil was repeated to create a bold, geometric print; a classic watch became the centrepiece of a striking cropped dress.


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Lesley Barnes

The fashion world mourned the death of François Lesage in December last year – head of Lesage, one of the last French haute couture embroidery houses. It is a fitting tribute that the house has worked with one of our brightest stars this season: the first time it has ever worked with a London designer. ‘No sequin is left unturned’ says Mary, which is pretty evident when you see these pieces. Body-con dresses were embellished with hundreds and thousands of sequins and jewels, and my photographs (and any that I’ve seen online) don’t do these pieces justice, which brought audible gasps to Old Billingsgate.


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Sarah Jayne Draws


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Nicola Ellen

There was a hint of old-school Versace in some of the prints, although I say that cautiously because I’ve been thinking that about everything since that infamous H&M collaboration. What this collection really sold was Mary’s inimitable style, whilst still being capable of offering something entirely different. At fashion week you generally find a really good print designer whose silhouettes could do with a bit of work, or vice-versa. But with Mary, you get both.


Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Hail Mary!

Oh, also – here’s that invite for fellow print pervs. Just wonderful.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday February 24th, 2012 12:59 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Anna Wintour, ,AW12, ,Balcony, ,catwalk, ,François Lesage, ,Hail Mary!, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Lesage, ,Lesley Barnes, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Matt Bramford, ,Old Billingsgate, ,Pencils, ,review, ,Spoons, ,topshop, ,Typewriter, ,Versace

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Amelia’s Magazine | Matthew Miller: London Collections: Men S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

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Matthew Miller S/S 2014 – all photography by Matt Bramford

‘I AM NOT THE ARTIST. YOU ARE‘ declared Matthew Miller‘s press release, distributed along the white benches of the Victoria House, London Collections: Men venue. It was my penultimate show and the fatigue induced by fashion shows had well and truly set in. I needed something to perk me up if I was to make it to Xander Zhou at the end of the day.

Miller‘s ethereal show opening was just the ticket. Instead of music, a woman with dulcet tones harped on about the world through the speakers. An intense gent appeared, wearing only white tapered jeans, his back penned with the gallery cliché ‘UNTITLED MIXED MEDIA‘. The philosophy of the art world was to become Miller‘s branding for this season and was swiftly followed by a long-haired model with the same motif tattooed onto his chest. He carried a skateboard and wore jeans of a similar cut, this time in jet black. I liked the drama of it all, but I did ponder how long I could sit watching shirtless models wearing staple denim stroll past.

It wasn’t long, though, before Matty Miller‘s unique approach to menswear came to life. The relationship between fashion and art is a constantly evolving theory. Is fashion art? Is art fashion-led? Miller explored this concept by utilising the stark visuals of a gallery’s environment and interpreting it through clothing. His aim was to bring the haute pretensions of the art world down a peg or two.

Luscious sweaters really perked me up and I would never be able to decide which one to buy. A white crew neck had a subtle off white panel applied to the front and featured a gallery caption square on the reverse. Others carried a circular design making use of the ‘untitled’ motif, this time in a vinyl relief. I really enjoyed those. A stand-alone black version had the crowds launching their cameras into the air; a white version peaked from behind rigid denim. A black sweater with thick monotone blocks descending to white also stood out.

Sportswear is always a key factor in his collections (that’ll be his time at Umbro) and elements of this genre featured on most garments. Paper-like tops had hoods and front pockets. Trousers were cropped at the ankle. Black leather jackets with concrete toggles complimented these looks and reminded us of Miller‘s unique approach to materials.

Shapeless silhouettes in slim, straight fabrics came in a super-light grey, teamed with matching shorts, and this technique saw Miller show womenswear for the first season – smock-like dresses used darts to form angular shapes across chests.

It was left to raw denims, cracked paint finishes and unfinished hems to complete this visually stimulating and thought-provoking collection.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday July 2nd, 2013 1:35 pm

Categories ,art, ,canvas, ,caption, ,catwalk, ,denim, ,Destroy to Create, ,fashion, ,Gallery, ,LCM, ,LCMSS14, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matthew Miller, ,menswear, ,Radical Prototypes, ,review, ,skateboard, ,smocks, ,Sportwear, ,SS14, ,sweatshirts, ,Victoria House, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Northumbria University: Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Catwalk Review Part 1

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Graduate collection by Emily Edge

It will be ten whole years in September since I started university at Northumbria University in Newcastle. Gulp. However old I may feel, I’m still incredibly attached to Northumbria and I’d never, ever say anything negative about their talent – not that there is ever anything negative to say (and I’m not just saying that, know what I’m saying). Yet again they didn’t fail to dazzle with their wondrous collections. I chatted with Chris Hodge, senior lecturer at Northumbria, who told me I was in for a surprise and that more than half of the collections this year represented menswear. When I asked why, he said there’d been a shift in interest towards menswear; maybe that it was a more career-viable option, and that teaching had focussed on cut, texture and material.

I took my seat and as I reviewed the show notes an over-enthusiastic student came jogging by me, tripping over my camera case and going arse-over-tit right in front of the photographer’s pit. It was both hysterical and extremely worrying – it was an ambulance-chasing CLAIMS4U-style nightmare and I buried my head into the handouts hoping that the girl was okay. She was.

Anyway, as I plot my asylum elsewhere, here’s a rundown of Northumbria’s best talent:

Emily Edge

Graduate collection by Emily Edge

Emily opened the show with her astonishing menswear collection and Chris’ comments immediately made sense. Rich yellow jackets were teamed with digital print tailored shirts, which also appeared on a blazer and trousers. With emphasis on the aesthetic properties of materials and sharp cuts, I wondered how anybody was going to match such a strong start. I’ve since learned that Emily’s been shortlisted for the Gala show (this evening) and I wouldn’t be surprised if she doesn’t scoop the award for menswear.


All photography by Matt Bramford

Oliver Moores

Oliver Moores followed with more exemplary tailoring. Exaggerated lengths, contrasting colours and luxurious materials made for a well produced collection.

Felicity Bradshaw

Felcity placed her emphasis on the silhouette, showing body conscious, sexy numbers alongside more shapely pieces. A cropped top with a light under it seemed a little out of place but provided interest, nonetheless.

Charlotte Sowerby

Charlotte’s collection drew inspiration from the angst-ridden youth sub-cultures of the past and, diversely, scrap yards. Creeping metal patterns were found at the base of shirts, and a rust-coloured coat stood out amongst her strong tailoring.

Rebecca Byers


Graduate collection by Rebecca Byers

Rebecca’s architectural collection of chunky knits and golden conceptual pieces was a delight. I have endured so many ‘fashion’ shows where the quality of the craftsmanship and the uniqueness of the designs don’t even come close to this.

Zoe Eastham


Graduate collection illustrated by Zoe Eastham

Zoe presented a sophisticated menswear collection, taking inspiration from aviation and, interestingly, folds created by origami. Cue aviator leathers, rich knitted sweaters and a light grey shirt with triangular darts running down the front that I’d rather like to get my hands on.

Kellie Fountain


Graduate collection by Kellie Fountain

Kellie also used aspects of aviation as inspiration, but with a whimsical, playful approach applied to womenswear. Bright, vintage-esque colours worked wonders on playful skirts and structured coats. Perspex aeroplanes added even more fun to this stand-out collection.

Chloe Horsfield

I adored Chloe’s take on 1990s hip-hop culture and her use of big and bold prints. Patchworks formed from pre-worn garments and vibrant knits had me clinging to my seat to avoid jumping onto the catwalk and stealing the lot.

Amelia Smith


Graduate collection by Amelia Smith

Amelia sought inspiration from the architecture in Moscow’s Red Square. Shapely frocks were decorated with intricate monochrome patterns and gold embellishments that mirrored each piece’s silhouette.

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday June 13th, 2012 9:12 am

Categories ,Amelia Smith, ,catwalk, ,Charlotte Sowerby, ,Chloe Horsfield, ,Chris Hodge, ,Earls Court Two, ,Emily Edge, ,fashion, ,Felicity Bradshaw, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2012, ,Kellie Fountain, ,knitwear, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Newcastle, ,Northumbria University, ,Oliver Moors, ,Rebecca Byers, ,review, ,Sunday, ,textiles, ,Womenswear, ,Zoe Eastham

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Amelia’s Magazine | Northumbria University: Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Catwalk Review Part 1

by


Graduate collection by Emily Edge

It will be ten whole years in September since I started university at Northumbria University in Newcastle. Gulp. However old I may feel, I’m still incredibly attached to Northumbria and I’d never, ever say anything negative about their talent – not that there is ever anything negative to say (and I’m not just saying that, know what I’m saying). Yet again they didn’t fail to dazzle with their wondrous collections. I chatted with Chris Hodge, senior lecturer at Northumbria, who told me I was in for a surprise and that more than half of the collections this year represented menswear. When I asked why, he said there’d been a shift in interest towards menswear; maybe that it was a more career-viable option, and that teaching had focussed on cut, texture and material.

I took my seat and as I reviewed the show notes an over-enthusiastic student came jogging by me, tripping over my camera case and going arse-over-tit right in front of the photographer’s pit. It was both hysterical and extremely worrying – it was an ambulance-chasing CLAIMS4U-style nightmare and I buried my head into the handouts hoping that the girl was okay. She was.

Anyway, as I plot my asylum elsewhere, here’s a rundown of Northumbria’s best talent:

Emily Edge

Graduate collection by Emily Edge

Emily opened the show with her astonishing menswear collection and Chris’ comments immediately made sense. Rich yellow jackets were teamed with digital print tailored shirts, which also appeared on a blazer and trousers. With emphasis on the aesthetic properties of materials and sharp cuts, I wondered how anybody was going to match such a strong start. I’ve since learned that Emily’s been shortlisted for the Gala show (this evening) and I wouldn’t be surprised if she doesn’t scoop the award for menswear.


All photography by Matt Bramford

Oliver Moores

Oliver Moores followed with more exemplary tailoring. Exaggerated lengths, contrasting colours and luxurious materials made for a well produced collection.

Felicity Bradshaw

Felcity placed her emphasis on the silhouette, showing body conscious, sexy numbers alongside more shapely pieces. A cropped top with a light under it seemed a little out of place but provided interest, nonetheless.

Charlotte Sowerby

Charlotte’s collection drew inspiration from the angst-ridden youth sub-cultures of the past and, diversely, scrap yards. Creeping metal patterns were found at the base of shirts, and a rust-coloured coat stood out amongst her strong tailoring.

Rebecca Byers


Graduate collection by Rebecca Byers

Rebecca’s architectural collection of chunky knits and golden conceptual pieces was a delight. I have endured so many ‘fashion’ shows where the quality of the craftsmanship and the uniqueness of the designs don’t even come close to this.

Zoe Eastham


Graduate collection illustrated by Zoe Eastham

Zoe presented a sophisticated menswear collection, taking inspiration from aviation and, interestingly, folds created by origami. Cue aviator leathers, rich knitted sweaters and a light grey shirt with triangular darts running down the front that I’d rather like to get my hands on.

Kellie Fountain


Graduate collection by Kellie Fountain

Kellie also used aspects of aviation as inspiration, but with a whimsical, playful approach applied to womenswear. Bright, vintage-esque colours worked wonders on playful skirts and structured coats. Perspex aeroplanes added even more fun to this stand-out collection.

Chloe Horsfield

I adored Chloe’s take on 1990s hip-hop culture and her use of big and bold prints. Patchworks formed from pre-worn garments and vibrant knits had me clinging to my seat to avoid jumping onto the catwalk and stealing the lot.

Amelia Smith


Graduate collection by Amelia Smith

Amelia sought inspiration from the architecture in Moscow’s Red Square. Shapely frocks were decorated with intricate monochrome patterns and gold embellishments that mirrored each piece’s silhouette.

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday June 13th, 2012 9:12 am

Categories ,Amelia Smith, ,catwalk, ,Charlotte Sowerby, ,Chloe Horsfield, ,Chris Hodge, ,Earls Court Two, ,Emily Edge, ,fashion, ,Felicity Bradshaw, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2012, ,Kellie Fountain, ,knitwear, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Newcastle, ,Northumbria University, ,Oliver Moors, ,Rebecca Byers, ,review, ,Sunday, ,textiles, ,Womenswear, ,Zoe Eastham

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