Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Katie Eary S/S 2010:  Skeletons

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Most regular joes can barely get their heads round a manbag – well, more about they better get ready to accessorise to within an inch of their lives because that’s what the designers in the MAN show have got planned for them next summer, seek with a strong emphasis on cuffs, bags, shoes and, er, ribcages.

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First out was Katie Eary with the collection ‘Naked Lunch’, taking its title from the seminal William Burroughs work, a text featuring a veritable rainbow of topics ranging from child murder to heroin (last season was built around Orwell’s Animal Farm). Eary’s collection was like an autopsy, with the inside of the body externalised and represented in fabric and metalwork.

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 The opulent gold bone and pearl ribcages (reminiscent of Shaun Leane) seemed a curious proposal to accessorise with our own insides, with drug use and the crumbling of the body inferred by the cartilage-like red rope shoulderpieces, human hair, frayed denim and heart and organ prints. It was a theme that Eary extended to maximum capacity in a real attention to the most frightening of details.

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The models’ faces were often imprisoned in metal masks, chainmail and helmets making them resemble dystopic, nightmarish soldiers, with laser-cut brass sandals and gold skeletal hands completing an extraordinarily unsettling, inventive and ultimately transfixing vision. Yet it was a theatrical edge that was mitigated by a selection of completely wearable pieces, featuring tailored shorts, a studded leather jacket and graphic print t-shirts.

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All photographs by Matt Bramford

Categories ,Fashion East, ,Katie Eary, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Man, ,Naked Lunch, ,Orwell, ,William S Boroughs

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week AW 2010: Fashion East Menswear Installations

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If coping with sashaying around London Fashion Week’s Menswear Day from show to show wasn’t enough, try there was also the incredible Fashion East Menswear installations, more about which never fail to impress.

It’s great to see some previous Fashion East designers progressing to catwalk shows, approved which no doubt most of these will too.

Here’s a (very brief) round-up of what we saw yesterday…

Lou Dalton
We’ve been a fan of Lou Dalton for a while now, and her show last season was a nautical treat. She’s a designer for the young, hip kind – a category I sadly don’t fall into but still have a huge appreciation for her skillz.

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This time around, Lou moves into checks and even more knitwear, whilst still retaining that modern-tailoring-with-classic-British influence. She’d clearly instructed her models to do their best blue-steel too, which made for good photographs…

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Florian
Florian is, apparently, a jewellery designer. I did see some racks of jewellery, briefly, but I failed to look at it as I was mesmerized by this strange creature (read: poor young bemused model who had to wear fake tusks on his arms for four hours, changing poses when anybody entered the room).

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Matthew Miller
Fantastic tailoring suitable for the sartorial dresser. Great styling in the room, too – made up a heap of good-looking man-about-town types chatting away. What larks.

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Mr Hare
Very, very nice shoes. That is all.

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Martine Rose
Bit of an odd set-up here, with live models playing Nintendo hand-held consoles (I’m sure they have a real name, but I’m damned if I know what they’re called). Very little fashion, but what I did see – tailored shirts featuring patches of contrasting colours – were fun and wearable.

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Sibling
Sibling invited us to delve into the world of zombies and other horror-related imagery with the launch of their spooky collection. A rather charming film that made use of 1950-60s b-movie style horror movie imagery and graphics played in the background. There collection consisted of intricate knitwear which used bright and neon colours and playful graphics. By far one of the best installations in the building!

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Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Fashion East, ,Florian, ,footwear, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lou Dalton, ,Martine Rose, ,Matthew Miller, ,menswear, ,Mr Hare, ,sartorial, ,Sibling, ,tailoring, ,Tartan, ,zombies

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Menswear A/W 2010: James Long

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Illustration by Gemma Milly

James Long is bringing the boiler suit back, medical and he’s bringing it completed with printed references to the work of Bruce La Bruce, prostate an avante garde experimental film maker. Blood Stains made graphic (a recent exhibition of Wallpaper in Manchester featured wallpaper printed with splashed blood stains… one for avid CSI fans.)

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The Spring Summer collection provided functional Utilitarian and at times, damn pretty work wear, thanks to a variety of appearances by the following fabrics; Denim, Corduroy, Cotton, Leather and feathers.

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The collection was inspired by Laurie Anderson’s O Superman video.

The leather trousers from previous seasons made a welcome comeback, as did the continutation knitwear ranging from a fine knit to the chunkier variety.
James Long’s forte is his combination of contrasting materials.

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The corduroy was welcomed in it’s sheer thickness. Whilst Long’s use of a deep navy blue provided a richness increasing the texture of the garments.

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Illustration by Gemma Milly

Big Coats incase an environmental disaster does strike…

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The finale, the future still looks bleak… but beautifully designed.

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All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,british fashion council, ,Fashion East, ,James Long, ,London Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2010, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Man

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Amelia’s Magazine | Goodone Clothing – Ethically desirable

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Turner Prize

Enrico David, price treatment Roger Hiorns, search Lucy Skaer and Richard Wright are the lucky shortlisted ones on the Turner Prize’s notepad this year and it’s been noted that the Prize has gone for less shock and awe than usual, buy information pills resulting in a more thoughtful set of works on show. You will probably have at least heard of Roger Hiorns via his incredible work coating an entire flat in blue crystals.But it’s not about the fame of course. From Tuesday, you can go along to the Tate Britain and see for yourself.

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Booker Prize
Announced Tuesday

The 2009 Booker prize shortlist is full of big-hitters, in the form of Sarah Waters (The Little Stranger), JM Coetzee (Summertime) and A.S. Byatt (The Children’s Book), as well as historical fiction from Hilary Mantel (Wolf Hall) and lesser known authors Adam Foulds (The Quickening Maze) and Simon Mawer (The Glass Room). If you’re not sure what to read next the Booker shortlist is always a good place to get ideas outside of lists of the 100 Greatest Books of All Time. If you’re quick enough to have read them all already, look out for the winner announcement on Tuesday to see if you, in your wisdom, agree with the judges’ decision.

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Grayson Perry’s Walthamstow tapestry

Grayson Perry is trying his hand at something other than ceramics with his “Walthamstow Tapestry”, an amazing, detailed piece of work a bit like a Bayeaux Tapestry for 2009. They cared about war, we care about shopping, it seems. Perry examines our consumerism but has also made something that is anti-consumerist: a one-off object that is the opposite of fast fashion or instant gratification.

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Dance Umbrella

In recent years we’ve all rediscovered how amazing it is to watch and do dancing that is more involved than shuffling from one foot to the other while hoping that person over there will notice you. A big part of this change, other than Strictly of course, is Dance Umbrella. The influential dance festival-makers annual season kicks off this week, with the theme “African Crossroads”. They are staging performances and “days out” where you can get a little taster of lots of the shows going on around London over the next few weeks.

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Origin London Craft Fair

There’s something special about an item that’s been made with love by another human being and not just generated by a machine or made under duress in a sweatshop. All the 300-odd artisans at this craft fair at Somerset House make beautiful pieces that are worth treasuring or just getting inspiration for your own Autum projects from.
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Goodone clothing is a classic example of super-apt naming. Only ‘good conscience, online good clothing’ would be a more fitting term. The clothing brand based in the fashion mecca of East London designs quirky pieces all girls want to wear, discount sourced from recyclable materials that everyone’s conscience can appreciate (must be why they are stocked at Fashion Conscience, approved that emporium of ethical fashion). Everything is that most coveted of all must-have clothing qualities- individually hand-made and therefore one off, not to mention, kickass and street-cool.

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Recently short listed for the ‘Re-new Designer of the Year’ Award. Goodone are aiming to shake up people’s expectations of ‘recycled’ clothing, with designs that are not obviously second-take or old-hat. Instead Goodone offer fresh, modern pieces made through reusing existing fabrics (aptly coined upcycling). By working closely with other retailers and designers, the Goodone team are able to provide (and champion!) a way of creating sustainable fashion from other people’s ‘waste’. Good not just in the quality then, but in heart, you can see what I mean about perfect naming. ‘Rubbish’ has never looked so good.

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Featured in street-bible i.D magazine, Juice magazine and shown at London Fashion Week through collaboration with NOKI NHS at Fashion East. Goodone certainly seem to cater to their target audience; fashion conscious, ethic conscious, bright young things set to change the world.

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It’s no surprise then that shop-gods Asos have snapped up some pieces for sale from next month. One glance at Goodone’s online shop currently and our drool glands are in overflow, so it’s no wonder that Asos have jumped on the game. The team design on-trend 80s bodycon dresses in black and white (made from recycled Breast Cancer T-shirts and to raise money for the same charity). As well as futuristic t-shirt dresses with playful coloured breast detail – these are pieces a girl would drop dead for in Topshop – and that’s meant as a compliment! Coming in several different colour schemes, some including extra designs, there’s definitely a dress to suit everyone, with slouchy jumper bodycon to cross-over long sleeved designs. It’s all very reminiscent of youth-hero Christopher Kane with the fluro and the bodycon, and we
like it.

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There are basics-a-plenty in store. The WWF hoody is a highlight, taking on the world in a boxer-esque manner in neon-fluro-brights. The panelled-body is another case in point, providing solid clothing we can move in, perfect for those ethical rallies and climate change demonstrations! These guys aren’t afraid to design wearable clothes – its street style gone ethical and completely in tune with what we want. Take a look at the knot back tee and the diamond slouch dress and you’ll see what we mean.

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It’s not only Asos who have pricked their ears to Goodone. Japanese-version-of-the-BBC, NHK, have been following the gang around with cameras to make a soon to be aired documentary entitled ‘Inspirational European Lives’. It seems then that these East-Londoners with hearts of gold are going to get the rewarding recognition their endeavours deserve all too soon. Watch this space and keep checking Asos for their stuff!

Categories ,Fashion East, ,Goodone Clothing, ,London Fashion Week, ,Noki NHS, ,Upcycling

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week Extra: Royal College of Art MA 2010


Illustration by Gemma Milly of Zara Gorman’s Millinery.

Over the last few years the RCA’s MA Fashion course has quietly been producing a series of extremely talented designers; from those reinventing menswear: James Long and Katie Eary to the individual take on womenswear by Michael van der Ham, hospital Erdem and Holly Fulton (whose influence could already be seen on the Bournemouth catwalk). All of whom (except perhaps, stomach Erdem) subsequently – pretty much straight away- showed at London Fashion Week via Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East.

Zara Gorman’s graduated from the Milinery MA (a class of one) with her exquisitely shaped hats constructed from a combination of leather, pilule wood and plastic.

Illustration by Katey Harvey

Astrid Andersen plays with fashion’s ability to celebrate and pastiche it’s own brand at the same time on the same item (think LV’s monogrammed bags or Moschino Jeans). Her menswear re-constructed the base elements of sportswear – the hoody, the sweatpants through incredibly luxurious materials (sadly this show was sponsored by Kopenhagen Fur – this is not a luxury material!). This was sportswear for the nouveau riche and a celebration of trashy aesthetics so loved by Eddie of Ab Fab

The less media friendly elements of sportswear were visited on the RCA catwalk this year, Courtney McWilliams’s take on casual wear focused on the harder youth. Who displayed across t-shirts and jackets what in recent years has come to represent a particular type of English youth: the Pit Bull. The word ‘Chav’ being the inspiration for a couple of the 2010 MA graduates, this collection was a literal inspiration of a term created in the media. Both designers exaggerated how an idea of masculine dominance and power can be created through dress and aesthetic choice, playing with the viewers ability to associate certain items of dress with particular ideas surrounding masculinity.

Illustration by Joseph Keirs

In contrast to Andersen and McWilliams, Trine Jensen provided a jovial take on menswear through his breathtaking sweaters covered with charms (as in bracelet) to hoops. A nod to the collector within us all.

Victoria Stone’s cut up chiffon shirts in conjunction with her oversized suits presented a masculine take on womenswear, a look for those inspired by Woody Allen’s Annie Hall Illustration By Marnie Hollande

Sam McCoach’s tubular tightly woven knitwear sashed down the catwalk. The ankle grazing dresses set off by the muted colour block graphic coats, complete with exaggerated rounded shoulders. A nod perhaps to Louise Goldin experimental knitwear.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Poppy Cartwright’s white collection was skin tight and slightly trashy through the use of high shine trousers. The collection celebrated femininity and the female form through the cut of the dress falling tight across the body. The body emphasised through the sections cut out and the white on white embroidery.

All illustrations by Naomi Law

Frances Convey’s colour and shapes were a moment of joy, the designer’s soft fabrics accentuating hips and shoulders.

Illustration by Katie Harvey

The monochrome creped collection by Cecile Bahnsen came complete with 1990′s inspired sportswear jackets. Elements of grunge reappeared through the designers choice of length – often the dresses hang tightly around the ankle. Flashes of Amber from clueless appear with the presentation of the Fez hat. It’s that time already. The revival of the 1990′s.

Illustration by Marnie Hollande

Bahnsen’s graphic monochrome was interspersed with pastel pink dresses constructed through negative spacing.

Yuri Yufere dramatic feminine shapes were hardened by the narrow metal poles woven into the garments, creating a visible extension of the body. Pushing the material into that grey area of personal space which surrounds us all. This year’s 2010 graduates presented an incredible exhibition of the craft, research and invention currently occurring within the RCA’s Fashion Department. Amelia’s Magazine waits eagerly to see where they go next.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Categories ,Astrid Andersen, ,Cecile Bahnsen, ,Courtney McWilliams, ,Erdem, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,Frances Convey, ,Gemma Milly, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,James Long, ,Joseph Keirs, ,Katey Harvey, ,Katie Eary, ,knitwear, ,Lesley Barnes, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,ma, ,Marnie Hollande, ,menswear, ,Michael van der Ham, ,millinery, ,Poppy Cartwright, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sam McCoach, ,Victoria Stone, ,Womenswear, ,Yuri Yufere, ,Zara Gorman

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Amelia’s Magazine | British Fashion Designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia A/W 2011: Marios Schwab

Marios Schwab A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins
Marios Schwab A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Marios Schwab was definitely the most friendly of the three Fashion East designers who came to Moscow with us: never underestimate the power of a simple smile my friends. He made the effort to chat with other attendees of the British Council initiative and we also spent quite a lot of time talking to his delightful sales agent Yiannis, site who sells the Marios Schwab collection through the Rainbow Wave showroom.

Marios Schwab A/W 2011 by Amber Cassidy
Marios Schwab A/W 2011 by Amber Cassidy.

As someone who predominantly works on the press side of fashion the trip to Russia was a really great way to find out more about other aspects of the fashion business, more about especially the importance of a good sales agent, and how many stockists is deemed a good thing: something which I gleaned from chatting with fashion consultant Toby Meadows and PR maestro Michael Salac of Blow PR.

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Marios Schwab A/W 2011, all photography by Amelia Gregory.

Marios Schwab is the most well known of the Fashion East designers and as such he had the prime late spot on Sunday 3rd April, and a gigantic catwalk in a much larger conference hall at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. Due to some complications dealing with an all Russian hair and make up team the show ended up starting over an hour late, but we didn’t mind… by this point the whole British Council crew were getting on like a house on fire, and I had an interesting conversation with a girl who teaches oligarch children. Not sure where I stand on the ethics of teaching oil barren brats but how jealous am I? I would love to see inside those mansions.

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I imagine that even the most seasoned of designers might have baulked at the sheer size of the massive catwalk but the show worked a treat. Marios Schwab makes beautiful tailored dresses that manage to be both eminently clever and yet highly sellable. For this show the A/W 2011 collection was styled with slicked back hair and glossy bare make up, and if there was any trouble achieving these looks it wasn’t obvious in this incredibly confident showing.

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Using a palette of muted beiges, creams, russet reds, forest green, mustard and black, Marios showed exactly why the details are so important. Everything was finely considered, from the beautiful hip buckles to the beaded ribbing that emphasised a womanly shape on breasts and shoulders. He may be still in the early stages of his career but this is a man to watch. Charming, talented and destined for very great things.

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Marios Schwab A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Amber Cassidy, ,Blow PR, ,British Council, ,catwalk, ,Fashion East, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marios Schwab, ,Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, ,Michael Salac, ,Moscow, ,oil, ,Oligarch, ,pr, ,Practicum: British Fashion, ,Rainbow Wave, ,Russia!, ,Sales, ,tailoring, ,Toby Meadows, ,Yiannis

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Amelia’s Magazine | Brooke Roberts: New S/S 2012 Season Interview

Brooke Roberts by Cathryn Nicholson
Brooke Roberts by Cathryn Nicholson.

We first spoke with fashion knitwear designer Brooke Roberts back in 2009. Here she talks about the inspirations behind her new S/S 2012 collection, which was launched with a spectacular dance presentation at The Hospital Club in September.

Brooke Roberts S/S 2012
Brooke Roberts S/S 2012.

We first interviewed you two years ago – what has changed since then? Are you still working part time as a radiographer and if so how are you juggling everything?
It’s busier than ever! I’ve been stocked at Browns Focus for three seasons, and I’m consulting for a menswear label, while running my label and working part-time as a radiographer. It’s seven days a week at the moment!

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Brooke Roberts S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

Your collections are created in Italy from the best fabrics – what kind of exciting yarns can you tell us about in the new collection, and what are their properties?
I’ve been experimenting with bio-ceramic yarns, which have metabolic and body temperature regulating properties. I’ve also been using retro-reflective yarns, which are a wool base with microscopic glass beads bonded to the surface. I mix these with luxury yarns like extra-fine merino, cashmere and silk for a techno-luxe effect. All of my knits are unique programmes, so mixing the yarns with the programmes allows me to create really personal and innovative fabrics.

Brooke Roberts S/S 2012. Photo by Akeela Bhattay
Brooke Roberts S/S 2012. Photo by Akeela Bhattay
Brooke Roberts S/S 2012. Photography by Akeela Bhattay.

Why did you make the move from science into fashion. What do you miss about that world and what do you not miss at all?! Why did you decide that fashion was more important to you than radiography?
Being a radiographer means you lack autonomy in your work. I find that difficult. The medical images I create are incredibly detailed and textural, and inspire the fabrics I create. I think my science degree has given me a unique perspective on technology and design. I’m not the kind of designer who starts a collection by researching fashion history and other designers previous collections. I develop my ideas through interpreting medical images, creating digital knit programs and yarn experimentation. I then use fashion references to develop silhouettes. Fashion allows me to express my perspective on science and design. I find the two to be harmonious. 

Brooke Roberts medical inspired knitwear- Veronica Rowlands
Brooke Roberts medical inspired knitwear by Veronica Rowlands.

Why is it important to combine the science and the arts?
Combining the two enhances the understanding and interest in each field. They are inextricably linked. Science gives us the ability to understand and explain the world around us. That is powerful knowledge that can be applied creatively. A great example is the Wellcome Collection and Wellcome Trust, which funds art projects with a basis in biomedical science. Electroboutique at the Science Museum is another great example. 

Brooke Roberts S/S 2012. Photo by Akeela Bhattay
Brooke Roberts S/S 2012. Photo by Akeela Bhattay
What science journals, fashion and music blogs do you recommend for a bit of inspiration?
Science and technology – Wired, New Scientist, the RSNA’s Radiology journal, Suzie Sheehy‘s blog ‘high heels in the lab‘, Google! I love looking up strange materials and gadgets on the net to develop ideas for my collections. Fashion – Vogue Italia, Stylebubble, Dazed Digital, ShowSTUDIO. Music – I’m a big Radio 6 fan – not so much a music blog reader. 

Brooke Roberts S/S 2012. Photo by Akeela Bhattay
For your S/S 2012 collection you put on a dance performance in collaboration with Riccardo Buscarini at the Hospital Club which I was sadly unable to attend. What prompted this idea and what was the best part of the performance?
This idea came out of a video of a knitting machine made entirely of lego, which I found on Youtube. Riccardo Buscarini choreographed the piece from this, and Elspeth Brooke composed the score, which she and I recorded at one of the hospitals I work at. I operated the x-ray machines and she recorded the sound. The collection was a commentary on woman and machine, and encorporated high-tech Italian industrial knitting techniques with hand knit, crochet and hand-lacing. 

Brooke Roberts S/S 2012. Photo by Akeela Bhattay
The current collection is for sale in Browns Focus (including some collaborative accessories with Eye of the World), how is that doing and do you have any more plans for new stockists or designer collaborations?
The collection looks great. I’ve seen it in store and one of the styles has already sold out, so that’s great. I just returned from New York where I visited three retailers – more on that next season! I am hoping to work with Riccardo and Elspeth again, and looking forward to seeing what we can create next season. 

Brooke Roberts S/S 2012. Look book image
Brooke Roberts S/S 2012. Look book image.

What is your muse for the new collection? Any sneak ideas of what to expect, and can we expect anymore exciting shows?
I don’t have a muse. Next season will be a textural delight. Technical cables, geometry and luxury. The rest is top secret.

We can’t wait to see what Brooke Roberts does next season! Catch up with our previous interview with Brooke Roberts in 2009 here and here.

Categories ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Antonia Parker, ,Bianca Wendt, ,Brooke Roberts, ,Browns Focus, ,Cathryn Nicholson, ,Dazed Digital, ,Electroboutique, ,Elspeth Brooke, ,fashion, ,High Heels in the Lab, ,Hospital Club, ,New Scientist, ,Radio 6, ,Radiographer, ,Radiology Journal, ,Riccardo Buscarini, ,RSNA, ,S/S 2012, ,science, ,Science Museum, ,Showstudio, ,stylebubble, ,Suzie Sheehy, ,Veronica Rowlands, ,Vogue Italia, ,Wellcome Collection, ,Wellcome Trust, ,Wired

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Amelia’s Magazine | Craig Lawrence

When you think of the humble pom-pom you think of children’s clothes, order buy of gigantic sombreros for tourists, generic unsightly snow boots and poodles with dodgy haircuts. Experimenting with pom-poms always seemed to be a bit like tequila shots – one was fun, two was adventurous, any more was way overboard and enough to make you gag.
NOT ANY MORE! Somebody somewhere decided it was time to wrench those pom-poms from the cheerleader’s sweaty grasp and boom! Stick them in the right places and we’re in love – and it turns out you can have hundreds of them!

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They might have come to our attention bobbling out all over the catwalks in fashion week and with the high street following suit, but this is a look that could be even cheaper for the creative recessionistas amongst you. Make your own! Check it.
If you ever find yourself sat staring into space on the tube, you could be churning out a whole lot of pom-poms instead. Worn the right way I think it’s a really easy and fun accessory to jazz up an outfit– this cute Peter Jensen ring as a prime example:

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We’ve seen some girls wearing them in their hair, which make a nice woolly alternative to bows, and of course the contentious scrunchie.

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BIGGER:

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BIGGEST:

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THE KITCHEN SINK:

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Don’t be wearing those in the cinema mind you.

It’s amazing that something so simple has been culturally reinterpreted so often over the course of history. That might sound grand but something that’s gone from dangling off the edges of sun hats in Central America, to being mass marketed to children all over the world to making on the Paris catwalks is pretty unique. Yikes, Pom Pom international even reckons they can promote world peace. Maybe that’s one tequila too many. Sporting them could almost seem a throwback to childhood, a fashion revival harking back to the days of hats and mittens (I’d like to say ‘and snow and toboggans’ but let’s face it, it doesn’t snow THAT often).
The last thing we can learn about pom-poms is from cheerleaders everywhere, who if nothing else, seem mind-bogglingly happy. Why? POM-POMS!
“At a T-cross-section go to the left. On your left hand you will see a hill. At the end of the hill, tadalafil on the top, this you will see a green cottage. That is where you can find me. If I am not there I might be outside doing some experiments.”
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Holland’s answer to a modern day Darwin, Theo Jansen has spent the last 19 years playing god and taking evolution into his own hands. An arrogant way to spend the best part of two decades you might say, but not when you see what incredible results this passing of time has produced. Jansen’s kinetic creature creations exist in a carefully crafted overlap of art and engineering.
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From a physics background to a study of painting via an interest in aeronautics and robotics Jansen arrived at 1990 with a thirst for breathing autonomous life into mechanical sculpture. What started as a highly technical computer animation program is now only reliant on the power of the wind with no machine assistance and only minimal human input required, and even that Jansen hopes to eventually phase out.
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My personal attraction to what Jansen does comes from my deep seated loathing of plastic waste, which he cleverly conquers by incorporating discarded plastic bottles as part of a complicated wind energy storage system and he sources metres and metres and metres of yellow plastic tubing- 375 tubes per animal to be exact- to create the skeletons for his beautiful monsters.
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He claims he started to use the plastic tubing because it was unbelievably cheap and readily available although he quickly discovered that a more perfect material for the project would be hard to find as they are both flexible and multifunctional. He draws comparisons between the plastic required in his art and the protein required for life forms. “in nature, everything is almost made of protein and you have various uses of protein; you can make nails, hair, skin and bones. There’s a lot of variety in what you can do with just one material and this is what I try to do as well.”
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The heads of his giant beings act as sails, directing the intricate frames to glide gracefully across the nearby beaches to Jansen’s home and laboratory. The insect-like wings catch gusts of wind and propel the body forward. When there is no wind not even for ready money, the stored energy in the belly of the beasts can be utilized.
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Jansen’s vision is of a landscape populated by herds of these sculptures taking on entire lives of their own. The versions of models that made it into existence have raced and won survival of the fittest contests through his computer program and having studied these ‘winners’ Jansen designed creatures so developed they are even capable of self preservation, burrowing themselves in the sand when the gusts are too powerful for them to use constructively.
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His imagination like his Strandbeests (literally translated as ‘Beach Animal) is an ever evolving self perfecting organ. He envisions a point at which he will release his creations ‘into the wild’, which he speaks about in the same loving tone you would expect from a parent preparing their nest to be flown by their offspring. “I imagine that two animals will meet each other and compare their qualities in some way; have a demonstration somewhere on how they run and how fast they can run and also do some quality comparison on how they survive the winds. And the one with the better quality kills the other one and gives the other its own genetic code. There could be 30 animals on the beach, running around all the time, copying genetic codes. And then it would go on without me.” It’s not so far fetched after all to consider what Jansen does as god-like. He plainly and rather humbly philosophizes, “I try to remake nature with the idea that while doing this you will uncover the secrets of life and that you will meet the same problems as the real creator,” he added. Theo Jansen is simply a genius though his genius is far from simple. Amen.

It has been a while since I have found a political party that I feel that I can get behind. Politics seem to have descended into a misguided mess. Anytime I read about a Tory or Labour MP, more about it is usually because of a scandal. What is going on environmentally and economically seems to play second fiddle to infighting and lies. Meanwhile, living in East London, I have become friends with a couple of people who are involved in the Hackney Green Party. They don’t seem to lie, or cheat, or claim expenses – this is a party that I can support! I wanted to find out more about them, so I sat down for a cup of tea with Matt Hanley, who is the Green candidate for Stoke Newington Central.

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Illustration by Jessica Pemberton

I really liked the political broadcast; I thought it was very astute. The message is not that we have to step outside of our comfortable lives, but that the Green Party are the only political group who can deal with the contemporary and current issues that the world is facing; both politically and environmentally.

We have changed in almost a 180-degree way, twenty years ago the stereotype was beards, sandals, pipes, hemp clothes, it was almost like lecturing the public – it was unsophisticated. Twenty years ago was what, 1989? Scientists for the first time had come to an agreement that climate change was happening, and that it appeared to be man made. I guess when that news was first out there; people were like ‘look, its GOT to change’. Now we are a bit savvier. We have to present policies which are palatable to the voting public; there is no point in standing on the side lines and finger wagging, if we present a policy which will save money but drive down carbon emissions – that is what we are all about. I see the environment agenda of the Green Party very much subset of our core goal, which is social justice. Everything we do, we put the welfare of the human being at the very core. If they are not benefiting from our policies then… I don’t want to know…. that is what the Green Party stands for. So we work for human rights, LGBT rights, promoting the local economy, promoting local business, right though to reducing carbon emissions, they are all under this umbrella of social justice. We are providing a very electable platform, which will improve people’s lives. We are a very well run political party with extremely good innovative ideas to get ourselves out of this economic mess and we are also challenging climate change and enabling our communities to do the same and preparing ourselves for peak oil.

There have been a many protests organised recently, a lot of people who have never protested before are taking to the streets. What is the Green Party’s stance on direct action?

We are the political wing of the New Social Movement; we are the only party who advocate non-violent direct action. The Green Party leader, Caroline Lucas, is probably the only leader with a criminal record, she has been arrested at a nuclear base up in Scotland. We support legitimate protest. There is a place for the protesting, and a place for the parliamentary process. So we are the elected wing of the protest movement.

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Illustration by Aarron Taylor

Other parties don’t like their protesters do they?

Absolutely not, they just want you to nod along. Like good citizens, nod along like The Churchill Dog! (Laughs)

For people who have only heard of Hackney and have not been here, the first words that would come to mind would not be “sustainability”, “communities” or “grow your own”, but plenty of people are living by these ideals here and there is actually quite a healthy sized green movement in Hackney….

There is a massive opportunity for a green movement here, and massive support for us. It is unbelievable. In the last elections, the Greens reached second or third in every single ward in Hackney.

And you have a good relationship with Transition Town Hackney as well?

Yes, but they are completely different organisations. The Transition Town movement doesn’t want to be in the thrall of the political party. We definitely support the parties and their principles. We are all about a localised economy, we should be able to feed ourselves, produce our own energy, and I should be able to send my kid to the local school. The Transition Town model is about preparing for the onslaught of climate change and equipping communities for that transition, and that is also what the Greens are all about.

Can you see Hackney functioning well under a Green Party council?

Absolutely! They are doing it in Lewisham at the moment, which is a similar demography. They are doing all these fantastic things, for example, they have set a system up where you can go to the library and hire energy reading meters which you can take home and fix into your energy meter and this allows you to do an audit of your energy usage. I definitely want to see this launched in Hackney. It’s an innovative, creative way of thinking. It’s about putting sustainability at the core of everything, which also saves lots and lots of money!

I see The Green Party as being very accessible to young people as well.

The average age of people joining is mid to late 20′s. They are not wedded to 20th century politics, a lot of older labour supporters can’t bring themselves to leave. We have the same agenda that Labour did, back when they were good Labour. Only we can add the environmental agenda. We stand up for peace. We stand up for nuclear disarmament, no other party does that. We want public services to stay public. We want to renationalise the railways – the cost of rail tickets hits young people very, very hard. Younger people can see that we are standing up to big businesses, supporting local shops, and standing up for individuals. We have a whole plethora of progressive policies……..

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Illustration by Aarron Taylor

And also The Green Party a very media savvy bunch – you are on Facebook, you organise lots of activities….

Absolutely! In fact next week we are going paintballing – ‘Paintballing for Peace’

(Laughs) What other way is there to find peace?

(Laughs), and we are going on a Hackney Greens bike ride down to Brighton, we are organising a summer solstice away down to the coast. And we go on alternative pub-crawls. (Laughs)

Speaking of young people, Matt, you are 30 years old and you are standing for Stoke Newington Council for next May. What prompted this move?

I don’t like politicians – they are all the same, especially with what is going on with news about their expenses at the moment.
Working for the Green Party, and seeing the good that they are doing, I thought, you have to step up. I know that I can do a good job. Labour are failing miserably both in Hackney and in the country. The Conservatives are the same, the Liberal Democrats are no different, and so as a Green, you just have to step up.

What will you do if you won and had the power to implement any idea? What’s the first thing that you would do?

Free insulation! It’s a scheme that stems from European legislation, which states that energy companies are obliged to give a certain percentage to energy efficiency schemes. But the councils have to apply for that. The Green Party in Kirklees is on the local council, so every single person in Kirklees gets free insulation. It drives down energy costs, and drives down the carbon emissions and creates local jobs, so it’s a win win situation. Why every single council on the country is getting on this I don’t know. It saves everyone money, make peoples homes warmer, make them healthier – it stops people going to NHS with colds and flu and also reinvigorates the local economy by producing jobs. It creates a programme of very sustainable jobs. We tried to implement it before, but the Labour Councellors called it ‘daft’, dismissed it out of hand and didn’t give a reason beyond that!

That doesn’t make any sense!

The Labour and Conservative Party and the Liberal Democrats are on the wrong side of history, but there is a new movement, and it takes into account the Green Party, Transition Town and Friends Of The Earth…. Amnesty International, trade unions, CND etc and all these community grass routes organisations. This is a wonderful new social movement that can be called green with a small g and is a new paradigm of social and political engagement…. this is what the 21st Century is coming to now, but the three big parties are still clinging onto the coat tails of 20th Century ideology. This whole new multifaceted social movement (of which the Green Party are the political wing) is the new politics of the 21st century.

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Illustration by Faye Katirai

Can you tell us the best changes that we can make to our lives to make our world more sustainable?

Number one is vote Green! Although I don’t want to lecture people about being ” eco trendy”. Eco trendiness and eco consumption is not going to sort this mess out. We need strong government action to allow this country to change to a sustainable economy. But back to things that you can do as an individual: don’t use your car as much. Don’t eat as much meat. Cut down, you don’t have to stop eating meat completely, just don’t buy from supermarkets. Stop shopping at supermarkets altogether, because that is killing the environment, and your local towns. Support your local shops instead.

Wise words! Thanks Matt.
While the rest of us spent the winter windblown and wet-toed, viagra knitwear designer Craig Lawrence was dreaming of a resort escape, prostate with all the bells and whistles. And what hard earned sunburn doesn’t deserve to be soothed by an embarrassingly oversized tropical drink with all the tacky accoutrements. And ‘splash’ inspiration is born! Those fanciful toxic colored fishbowls of liquor with their cascading garnishes were all the visual inspiration Craig needed to create his first collection since graduating from St.Martins last July. Knitted up with satin ribbons and swirling metal yarn, the knitwear newcomer’s sugar sweet confections made it to Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s runways and onto the lips of the fashion heavies.

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I understand sweets and cocktails were the inspirations for your recent collection. What are some of your favorites?
After my degree collection for St.Martins I needed a bit of time to catch my breath so when I started designing again it was winter…cold and grey. I was eating sweets in my studio and daydreaming of beaches and tropical drinks. Some of my favorite things are peach daiquiris, parma violets. My favorite sweet is probably chewy toffee and favorite drink is that fizzy orange drink irn-bru.
What do you recall as the first piece of knitwear you ever made?
A wooly, salmon colored scarf that I actually lost on the train. That and an awful grey ruched square-shaped polyester thing I had to make for my A levels.
If given the chance to collaborate with anyone who would you have in mind?
I’ve always thought of doing pieces for a more theatrical environment. I would love to work with Slava Snowshow.

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You recently worked with stylist Katie Shillingford on a shoot for your recent collection. There’s so much movement in those images which really brings your knits to life, how did you manage to capture that?
I’d wanted dancing and movement but the studios’ ceilings were too low and they were all too expensive. So we brought a 9 ft family size trampoline to a rooftop overlooking the city and had the girls bouncing up and down on it. A bit risky actually as there was really not much there to stop them from going over if we weren’t careful. We did the hair and make up at home with the help of my boyfriend and flatmates, one of which is a model, which definitely helps when you need someone for fittings.
Did you start out interested in knit or did you find your way to it while studying fashion?
Actually, I wanted to do menswear while I was at London College of Fashion, by the time I got to St.Martins they encouraged me to do knit because they saw that all my stuff to that point had been designed in jersey. And I loved the chunky quality of knit.

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I hear you managed to do the impossible and actually design 6 seasons of knitwear for Gareth Pugh, while doing your BA, AND working a retail job once a week. How were you able to do that and how many of yourself did you have to clone?
I was in school at the time and had knitted a scarf for a friend who’s flatmate wore it on a date with Gareth, who mentioned he was looking for a knitwear designer. He got in touch and said he needed to have pieces made up in a week. So it was all quite fast. All that while doing my BA degree and working in the stock room at John Lewis on Saturday mornings, sometimes having to be there at 6 am. You get used to not sleeping.
And a year after graduating you were showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout?
My PR agency BLOW called me up a week before the show and said they had an opening for me, so I made up some accessories and a few pieces to fill out the collection I’d been working on. I was given a team of hair and make up artists and we were off.

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Which comes first for you, the yarn or the garment?
Usually the textiles come first for me. I’ve learned alot about them along the way, like for example needing to use a flat knit for tight fitting garments.
Are there any textiles, practical or not that you’re really keen to use?
I’d like to do something with little leather strips or pvc something shiny and bright. Maybe even strips of diamante.
What is one of the more random things you’ve used to knit with?
You know those yellow rubber gloves used for washing up/ i found a guy in Dalston Market selling a gaint roll of it and bought it. I cut it up into tiny little strips and started knitting it up but as a garment it was incredibly heavy and totally unweareble.
Could you give us a peek into the inspirations for your next collection?
At the moment I’m interested in accessories, chenille, and fireworks!
Look out! That is some recipe. Craig Lawrence wants to expand our minds and preconceptions, to push knitwear into places we’d least expect it. Can’t wait to see what Molotov cocktail awaits us next season!

Categories ,Gareth Pugh, ,Knitwear, ,St.Martins, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion East and NEWGEN Menswear Installations: London Fashion Week A/W Presentation Review


Sibling A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

The Fashion East and NEWGEN installations were a riot of colour, innovation and design again this season. I always have the best intentions on menswear day to see everything – the schedule is quite thin in a morning and leads you into a false sense of security that you can casually amble around taking in every designer in your stride. Serenity soon turns to chaos about 1pm though – the installations open, they’re rammed, and all of a sudden there are back-to-back catwalk shows dotted around town.

So in typical Matt stylee I raced around the installations in between shows, juggling my camera, a glass of plonk and a bunch of handouts in unison. Here’s my whistle-stop tour of both the Fashion East and Newgen designers:

Christopher O’Brien
Christopher O’Brien‘s name wasn’t one I’d heard of before, but I was captivated by his devilishly good looks and, more importantly, his A/W 2012 collection. His innovative crinkled cotton in white, navy and aqua across jackets and shirts really stood out.

Kit Neale

Kit Neale A/W 2012 by Krister Selin

In a separate room, Kit Neale‘s presentation was one of the highlights. A mixture of models stood and sat across wooden platforms, wearing Kit’s weird and wonderful digital-print fabrics. Matching jackets and trousers came in garish patterns, styled with scarves and backpacks. Across the room, a video of models performing karaoke to Elvis hits in front of a sparkly curtain played – one of my favourite digital presentations of this season.

Dr Noki’s NHS
In typical Noki fashion, his two models were adorned in all sorts of recycled materials: back-to-front New Era caps (a Noki staple), faces covered with t-shirts and comic book illustrations, which had my pal Gareth A HopkinsAmelia’s Magazine contributor and comic perv – proclaiming that he was on trend long before Noki was; a fact I wholeheartedly agree with.

Sebastian Tarek
Lovely, lovely shoes.

Sibling

Sibling A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

On menswear day I find myself desperate to see what Sibling will present each season. Last year’s fairground-inspired collection bowled me over. This ‘Marked Man‘ collection drew inspiration from ‘the relationship between a protective matriarch and her beloved – but wayward – son’. Queue glittery knits, tattoo imagery, a bleeding heart motif – this design trio certainly know how to interpret a theme. My favourite pieces were those that carried the leopard print knits – just incredible. To accompany their presentation, Sibling produced a stunning video installation that featured three models behind bars. Three screens acted as contemporary prison windows, where guests could sit opposite, listen to white noise down phone lines, and generally absorb the atmosphere. It was pretty affecting stuff. The three screens worked as a whole, with models moving between windows and animations occurring at the same time. Even visiting children enjoyed it.

T.Lipop
I’m a big fan of T.Lipop‘s contemporary sartorial splendour and this season was no exception. A fashion expedition – models wore contemporary tailoring and were styled with ice-cold beards and eyebrows. There’s a full review of the T.Lipop catwalk show to come soon…

William Richard Green
Last but not least, William Richard Green gave the modern man more ways to mix up his wardrobe. Jackets displayed expert craftsmanship, adorned with large white buttons, reworking classic staple items into statements for A/W 2012. An inimitable mix of wearable pieces and conceptual items (overcoats teamed with polkadot trousers and New Balance trainers), garments in this collection are sure to become future classics and I’d gladly wear any of it.

It was pretty exhausting – not least because one had to manoeuvre around Champagne gluggers like an assassin just to take a photograph – but it’s always worth it.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,AW12, ,Christopher O’Brien, ,Dr Noki, ,Fashion East, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Kit Neale, ,Krister Selin, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marked Man, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Newgen, ,NHS, ,Sebastian Tarek, ,Sibling, ,Somerset House, ,t.lipop, ,William Richard Green

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion East Menswear Installations: London Collections: Men A/W 2014 Presentation Review


Roxanne Farahmand A/W 2014 by Slowly the Eggs

Fashion East has brought the freshest designers to the London fashion catwalks for the last 13 years. It nurtures our newest talent and the likes of Jonathan Saunders, Gareth Pugh, Marios Schwab, Christopher Shannon and Lou Dalton have all propelled to success with the help of this non-profit organisation. Here’s a round up of this season’s showcase:

ROXANNE FARAHMAND


All photography by Matt Bramford

I was immediately drawn to Roxanne Farahmand‘s installation at the far side of the room; five guys draped over an Mk3 VW Golf Cabriolet head-to-toe in Nike apparel. Roxanne is a jeweller who graduated from London College of Fashion. Boy racers and the Max Power generation are Roxanne’s influences for this collection of hardcore knuckle dusters, geometric rings and necklaces.

MASSIMO CASAGRANDE

It would have been easy to dismiss Massimo Casagrande‘s simple display of hanging shirts in a room where models were draped over sports cars or lit with red spotlights. Take a closer look, though, and you have an innovative range of unique garments – shirts that make use of bubble wrap patterns, silicone and even concrete.

TOM RYLING

Tom Ryling A/W 2014 by Aysim Genc

Tom Ryling continued to experiment with materials with this ‘Ready to Fight’ collection. Five solemn models wore black ninja masks with white trousers and jackets peppered with red graffiti details. The chaotic decorations contrasted the rigid, architectural forms of his silhouettes.

LIAM HODGES

Liam Hodges‘ black and white collection – appallingly illustrated by this sole photograph because my camera gave up – was in stark contrast to the colours of his Fashion East counterparts. Workwear met streetwear with denim overalls, black and white bombers, panelled jackets and jersey pants. I urge you to check it out elsewhere and I apologise for my poor representation here.

NICOMEDE TALAVERA

The graphic lines of artist Robert Morris‘ sculptures provided Nicomede Talavera with a landscape for his A/W 2014 collection. A striking set of high-collared zip-up jackets, graphic blazers with rectangular panels and unusual combinations made for a unique first outing at Fashion East.

Categories ,AW14, ,Aysim Genc, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,installations, ,LCMAW2014, ,Liam Hodges, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Massimo Casagrande, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Mercer Street Studios, ,Nicomede Talavera, ,Roxanne Farahmand, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Tom Ryling

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