Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Preview: Menswear Day


Wintle, viagra order A/W 2010, illustrated by Antonia Parker

So it’s the last day of womenswear today, which means no more frocks and no more tits and arse. This is good. The womenswear press will jet off to Milan but London Fashion Week isn’t over – it’s MENSWEAR DAY tomorrow!

To celebrate, I’ve put together a list of the best of the best that we’ll be looking out for. This is by no means exclusive, because menswear day is usually pretty wonderful from start to finish. I pretty much like everything. I haven’t even touched on Matthew Miller, Morgan Allen Oliver, Christopher Shannon, KTZ, Hardy Amies, Tim Soar or Mr Hare. But, here we go anyway. In no particular order:

Carolyn Massey

Illustration by Paolo Caravello

I was hoping by now to have interviewed Carolyn Massey, but it’s a testament to her success that I haven’t managed to pin her down as yet. She only works around the sodding corner from my gaff, but it’s proven impossible in the run up to fashion week, so hopefully I’ll catch up with her when things slow down a bit (Oh my, how I’m looking forward to things slowing down a bit!)
Carolyn is easily one of my favourite menswear designers and she has an unparalleled approach to how men dress with her discrete military references and intelligent cuts. She describes a Carolyn Massey man as ‘someone with excellent taste, of course.’

E. Tautz

Illustration by Gabriel Alaya

E. Tautz, under the direction of Patrick Grant, is the epitome of Saville Row tailoring. His collections transport us to the golden age of tailoring’s most famous avenue; his cutting is second to none, his styling is extraordinary and he combines, with ease, classic English dressing with wit. Last year’s double-breasted jackets and three-piece suits had the menswear press practically falling over themselves.

Lou Dalton

Illustration by Kellie Black

I first saw Lou Dalton‘s work exactly a year ago at her salon show in the Portico Rooms, and what jolly good fun I had viewing her diminutive models sporting jazzed-up tricornes and luxurious knitwear. Last season saw Lou produce a more mature collection, featuring more great knitwear and exquisite tailored suits in vibrant tartan. Oh, I wish I’d bought that suit, I could swan around in it tomorrow. Damn.

Omar Kashoura

Illustration by Naomi Law

Omar Kashoura first caught my attention when Amelia and I caught his fantastic presentation last year in a swanky bar off the Strand. It was a superb setting in which his tailoring slotted in perfectly – dynamic suits with an exotic twist in all sorts of lovely pastel colours made for great photographs and an even better wardrobe. He’s quite rightly received NEWGEN sponsorship this year, so I am sure he’ll dazzle us again.

JW Anderson

Illustration by Chris Morris

JW Anderson has gone from strength to strength since his debut, er, whenever it was. He’s launched womenswear this year, which I haven’t seen yet, but his collections for men have been the highlight of menswear day for the past two seasons. Last season’s punk-inspired collection avoided being cheesy and instead showcased JW’s eye for styling and a fashion-forward aesthetic. The collection had it all – tartans, knits, bombers, love hearts, the lot. I can’t wait to see what he’ll come up with this year.

Sibling

Illustration by Rob Wallace

I’m sure you’re all familiar with Sibling. They really do make the most amazing knits, don’t they? Last year’s quirky striped numbers with hypnotic cartoon eyes were presented as part of the MAN installations and were by far the most enjoyable. This will be their fifth collection, and if last year’s contrasting graphic patterns and vibrant greens are anything to go by, we’re in for a treat this time around. It’s fun, it’s progressive, and it’s inspired by Frankenstein and zombies. What more could you want?

Wintle
It appears that Wintle isn’t showing this season, well not in London anyway. Bit of a shame, but last year I commissioned these beautiful illustrations by our Antonia Parker. I didn’t manage to post them last year, and I’ve been guilt ridden ever since. I’ve been worried sick and I haven’t slept. So, to quash my anxiety, I’m posting them now. Enjoy!

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Antonia Parker, ,Carolyn Massey, ,Chris Morris, ,Christopher Shannon, ,E. Tautz, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Hardy Amies, ,JW Anderson, ,Kellie Black, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lou Dalton, ,Man, ,Matthew Miller, ,menswear, ,Morgan Allen Oliver, ,Mr Hare, ,Naomi Law, ,Omar Kashoura, ,Paolo Caravello, ,preview, ,Rob Wallace, ,S/S 2011, ,Sibling, ,Somerset House, ,tailoring, ,Tim Soar, ,Wintle

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010: Menswear Preview

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Dig out your sartorial best, gents – it’s that time of year again!

The British Fashion Council dedicates it’s last day of the schedule to showcase our lovely city’s finest and most fabulous menswear designers. Yep, Menswear Day takes places on Wednesday 24 February. Here’s Amelia’s Magazine’s top tips for this season…

Carolyn Massey
Massey dazzled us with her gentleman-cum-millitary collection for SS 2010, seeking inspiration from a fishing village at threat from a nuclear power station.

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English satorilism, lightweight, loose trenches and industrial fabrics made for a sharp, sophisticated collection, and we’re wide-eyed to see how Massey translates her signature style for Autumn/Winter.

Lou Dalton
It’s a testament to Lou’s rising popularity that she managed to pack about a million people into the Portico Rooms of Somerset House for her SS 2010 showcase last September. Okay, I exaggarate, but this was one hot over-subscribed ticket that Amelia’s Magazine was lucky to get there hands on.

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Her nautical-themed collection, with chunky knits, gold tricornes and tailored chambray shirts, had a gaggle of journos clacking and whooping with delight. Dalton’s AW1011 show will no doubt deliver again.

Tim Soar
Sports-lux and tiptop tailoring were on the menu last season, when Tim Soar launched both his flagship concession in London’s Selfridges and his first on-schedule catwalk show.

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His love of graphic prints and aesthetic fabrics makes for statement dressing for the fashion-forward man, through effortless and unfinished tailoring combined with graphic prints. I covet these black high-gloss shorts, and I’d love to get my hand on a pair of Soar sling-backs.

Wintle
I write this as my Jsen Wintle pea-coat (cough, cough – Jsen Wintle for M&S, I’m ashamed to admit) hugs the back of my rather uncomfortable office chair. I love it. I was surprised to see this collaboration; in the past the line-up of M&S ‘designers’ hasn’t been anything to shout about.

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Wintle is one of the rising stars on the menswear circuit, and his SS 2010 collection dazzled, with gradient suits and muted, pastel colours. He counts David Walliams, Joely Richardson and JeffHack as friends/fans, and if he’s good enough for them, he’s good enough for us.

Elliot J Frieze
Welsh born Elliot J Frieze is the one to watch this season. Little is known about what Frieze’s debut solo collection might hold, but if his work on collaborative label Qasimi was anything to go by, we’re in for a treat. Qasimi fused couture techniques with wearable dresses for womenswear.

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Frieze’s solo collection promises a’ sophisticated, modern collection of classic and hybrid tailored cuts’ for the fashion-concious gentleman. Inspired by British heritage, this is one collection we can’t wait to see.

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Carolyn Massey, ,Elliot J Frieze, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lou Dalton, ,Tim Soar, ,Wintle

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Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Lou Dalton S/S2010 – Ahoy There, Mateys!

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Australian artist Natasha Muhl’s cleanly executed but quietly sinister images caught my eye as soon as they dropped into my inbox. With a slightly folky edge, find probably because of the mainly animal subject matter, shop who become supernatural characters, like the king bird in his crown, coughing up gemstones instead of food for chicks.

Amelia’s Magazine spoke to Natasha about her process, her views of her images and what the future holds for her and her curious cast of fauna.

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Tell me a little about the stories behind your images. They seem quite narrative – I can imagine the world surrounding these quirky characters.

I know there’s a story in there somewhere, but I’m not sure what it is yet. These little characters like to pop up in my sketch book doing various tasks in their world. Sometimes they’re there all the time and other times they just disappear.
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How do you create your work? Tell me a bit about the process you go through from original idea to finished product. Do you work organically and spontaneously or does it involve a lot of research?

This series was fairly spontaneous, they popped out of my fingers in a matter of days. I drew the horses one afternoon, and the rest just followed freely. My full coloured illustrations generally have a longer process. There’s a lot of research into composition. That gets followed by a few colour roughs before I spend a few hours colouring the work neatly.

Do you work in a solitary way or do you enjoy collaborating? Are you secretive about your work or do you invite commentary from an early stage?

I love to collaborate, but the opportunity seems to rarely come by. At the moment I’m working on some little bits and pieces with another illustrator friend where I do the traditional work and he follows up digitally. I guess I’m sort of secretive, but not on purpose. My graduating year just had an exhibition where I showed a few pieces, and half of the year didn’t even know I liked to draw. I’m always open to criticism though.

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What kind of objects, people or things do you love to draw? What is it about certain things that really grabs you?

I love to draw animals and ugly women. I’ve always loved animals and started drawing when I started horse riding. The ugly women are slightly more difficult to explain. I think primarily because it’s entertaining to draw all their saggy bits and put things where people traditionally wouldn’t want them. Sometimes I give them beautiful faces and ugly bodies, or vice versa, I always enjoy that juxtaposition. My more recent obsessions include little birds and jewels.

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Where do you hope to go next with your work? Any dream collaborations/venues/media?

It’s always an ideal world where I’d be able to illustrate for a living, but I’m not getting my hopes up. At the moment I’m just interested in personal improvement and maybe doing some shows.

Shelter house of cards thumbShelter House of Cards

Homelessness charity Shelter has recently been running a poster campaign showing houses built of cards, pill as a measure to remind us how quickly people’s lives can fall apart and homes be lost when things go wrong. To support the campaign, cialis 40mg Shelter has also commissioned 53 playing cards from artists, which will be exhibited at the Haunch of Venison gallery in London, starting tomorrow, September 25th.

All works will be auctioned off on Monday to benefit Shelter, including the winner of a public competition to design the 8 of clubs, below. There are also cards by Amelia’s Magazine artists and Damien Hirst.

eight-clubs

Shelter House of Cards

Homelessness charity Shelter has recently been running a poster campaign showing houses built of cards, no rx as a measure to remind us how quickly people’s lives can fall apart and homes be lost when things go wrong. To support the campaign, Shelter has also commissioned 53 playing cards from artists, which will be exhibited at the Haunch of Venison gallery in London, starting tomorrow, September 25th.

All works will be auctioned off on Monday to benefit Shelter, including the winner of a public competition to design the 8 of clubs, below. There are also cards by Amelia’s Magazine artists and Damien Hirst.

eight-clubs
Shelter House of Cards

Homelessness charity Shelter has recently been running a poster campaign showing houses built of cards, rx as a measure to remind us how quickly people’s lives can fall apart and homes be lost when things go wrong. To support the campaign, Shelter has also commissioned 53 playing cards from artists, which will be exhibited at the Haunch of Venison gallery in London, starting tomorrow.

eight-clubs
Shelter House of Cards

Homelessness charity Shelter has recently been running a poster campaign showing houses built of cards, buy information pills as a measure to remind us how quickly people’s lives can fall apart and homes be lost when things go wrong. To support the campaign, Shelter has also commissioned 53 playing cards from artists, which will be exhibited at the Haunch of Venison gallery in London, starting tomorrow.

eight-clubs
loudalton5

Lou Dalton presented her collection in the Portico Rooms of Somerset House, malady a rather opulent setting reached by a romantic, purchase winding staircase. This idyllic space couldn’t have suited the Dalton’s collection better, viagra unless it had been adorned in seafaring regalia.

This isn’t to say that Lou’s vision for Spring/Summer 2010 is a direct pastiche of maritime outfits. Instead, more subtle referencing was present.

The stripe – the seaside staple – was there in a number of outfits, but it had been re-worked for a more mature look, despite the models having a mean age of 14 (I surmise). I particularly loved the way it had be knitted into these two pieces…

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Basics were simple, with white vests featuring graphic patterns and loose fitting tailoring, such as blazer-waistcoats or knee-length shorts.

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As the collection progressed, it was clear that Dalton’s phantasm was less straight-forward sea. New-romantic elements and the channelling of pirates evoked memories a more decadent, classical period in history, when travelling by sea was the only way to travel. Wide brimmed hats and neat safari jackets, which were exquisitely tailored, fall into this category.

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There was also a hint of femininity to the collection, juxtaposed with more masculine pieces. Tailored chambray shirts were teamed with gold corsages and neck ties, for example.

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Fantastic accessories on display – oversized bags featuring graphic prints by Ricardo Fumanal and embellished with more metallic corsages. Sunglasses were provided by Linda Farrow, need I say more?

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Overall a very wearable collection where different pieces can be fused together to create different looks. Some of which I hope to try pretty soon…

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Photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,London Fashion Week, ,Lou Dalton, ,Menswear Day, ,Portico Rooms, ,Somerset House, ,Sunglasses

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week AW 2010: Fashion East Menswear Installations

LFW_LouDalton_3

If coping with sashaying around London Fashion Week’s Menswear Day from show to show wasn’t enough, try there was also the incredible Fashion East Menswear installations, more about which never fail to impress.

It’s great to see some previous Fashion East designers progressing to catwalk shows, approved which no doubt most of these will too.

Here’s a (very brief) round-up of what we saw yesterday…

Lou Dalton
We’ve been a fan of Lou Dalton for a while now, and her show last season was a nautical treat. She’s a designer for the young, hip kind – a category I sadly don’t fall into but still have a huge appreciation for her skillz.

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This time around, Lou moves into checks and even more knitwear, whilst still retaining that modern-tailoring-with-classic-British influence. She’d clearly instructed her models to do their best blue-steel too, which made for good photographs…

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Florian
Florian is, apparently, a jewellery designer. I did see some racks of jewellery, briefly, but I failed to look at it as I was mesmerized by this strange creature (read: poor young bemused model who had to wear fake tusks on his arms for four hours, changing poses when anybody entered the room).

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Matthew Miller
Fantastic tailoring suitable for the sartorial dresser. Great styling in the room, too – made up a heap of good-looking man-about-town types chatting away. What larks.

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Mr Hare
Very, very nice shoes. That is all.

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Martine Rose
Bit of an odd set-up here, with live models playing Nintendo hand-held consoles (I’m sure they have a real name, but I’m damned if I know what they’re called). Very little fashion, but what I did see – tailored shirts featuring patches of contrasting colours – were fun and wearable.

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Sibling
Sibling invited us to delve into the world of zombies and other horror-related imagery with the launch of their spooky collection. A rather charming film that made use of 1950-60s b-movie style horror movie imagery and graphics played in the background. There collection consisted of intricate knitwear which used bright and neon colours and playful graphics. By far one of the best installations in the building!

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Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Fashion East, ,Florian, ,footwear, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lou Dalton, ,Martine Rose, ,Matthew Miller, ,menswear, ,Mr Hare, ,sartorial, ,Sibling, ,tailoring, ,Tartan, ,zombies

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