Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Preview: Menswear Day


Wintle, viagra order A/W 2010, illustrated by Antonia Parker

So it’s the last day of womenswear today, which means no more frocks and no more tits and arse. This is good. The womenswear press will jet off to Milan but London Fashion Week isn’t over – it’s MENSWEAR DAY tomorrow!

To celebrate, I’ve put together a list of the best of the best that we’ll be looking out for. This is by no means exclusive, because menswear day is usually pretty wonderful from start to finish. I pretty much like everything. I haven’t even touched on Matthew Miller, Morgan Allen Oliver, Christopher Shannon, KTZ, Hardy Amies, Tim Soar or Mr Hare. But, here we go anyway. In no particular order:

Carolyn Massey

Illustration by Paolo Caravello

I was hoping by now to have interviewed Carolyn Massey, but it’s a testament to her success that I haven’t managed to pin her down as yet. She only works around the sodding corner from my gaff, but it’s proven impossible in the run up to fashion week, so hopefully I’ll catch up with her when things slow down a bit (Oh my, how I’m looking forward to things slowing down a bit!)
Carolyn is easily one of my favourite menswear designers and she has an unparalleled approach to how men dress with her discrete military references and intelligent cuts. She describes a Carolyn Massey man as ‘someone with excellent taste, of course.’

E. Tautz

Illustration by Gabriel Alaya

E. Tautz, under the direction of Patrick Grant, is the epitome of Saville Row tailoring. His collections transport us to the golden age of tailoring’s most famous avenue; his cutting is second to none, his styling is extraordinary and he combines, with ease, classic English dressing with wit. Last year’s double-breasted jackets and three-piece suits had the menswear press practically falling over themselves.

Lou Dalton

Illustration by Kellie Black

I first saw Lou Dalton‘s work exactly a year ago at her salon show in the Portico Rooms, and what jolly good fun I had viewing her diminutive models sporting jazzed-up tricornes and luxurious knitwear. Last season saw Lou produce a more mature collection, featuring more great knitwear and exquisite tailored suits in vibrant tartan. Oh, I wish I’d bought that suit, I could swan around in it tomorrow. Damn.

Omar Kashoura

Illustration by Naomi Law

Omar Kashoura first caught my attention when Amelia and I caught his fantastic presentation last year in a swanky bar off the Strand. It was a superb setting in which his tailoring slotted in perfectly – dynamic suits with an exotic twist in all sorts of lovely pastel colours made for great photographs and an even better wardrobe. He’s quite rightly received NEWGEN sponsorship this year, so I am sure he’ll dazzle us again.

JW Anderson

Illustration by Chris Morris

JW Anderson has gone from strength to strength since his debut, er, whenever it was. He’s launched womenswear this year, which I haven’t seen yet, but his collections for men have been the highlight of menswear day for the past two seasons. Last season’s punk-inspired collection avoided being cheesy and instead showcased JW’s eye for styling and a fashion-forward aesthetic. The collection had it all – tartans, knits, bombers, love hearts, the lot. I can’t wait to see what he’ll come up with this year.

Sibling

Illustration by Rob Wallace

I’m sure you’re all familiar with Sibling. They really do make the most amazing knits, don’t they? Last year’s quirky striped numbers with hypnotic cartoon eyes were presented as part of the MAN installations and were by far the most enjoyable. This will be their fifth collection, and if last year’s contrasting graphic patterns and vibrant greens are anything to go by, we’re in for a treat this time around. It’s fun, it’s progressive, and it’s inspired by Frankenstein and zombies. What more could you want?

Wintle
It appears that Wintle isn’t showing this season, well not in London anyway. Bit of a shame, but last year I commissioned these beautiful illustrations by our Antonia Parker. I didn’t manage to post them last year, and I’ve been guilt ridden ever since. I’ve been worried sick and I haven’t slept. So, to quash my anxiety, I’m posting them now. Enjoy!

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Antonia Parker, ,Carolyn Massey, ,Chris Morris, ,Christopher Shannon, ,E. Tautz, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Hardy Amies, ,JW Anderson, ,Kellie Black, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lou Dalton, ,Man, ,Matthew Miller, ,menswear, ,Morgan Allen Oliver, ,Mr Hare, ,Naomi Law, ,Omar Kashoura, ,Paolo Caravello, ,preview, ,Rob Wallace, ,S/S 2011, ,Sibling, ,Somerset House, ,tailoring, ,Tim Soar, ,Wintle

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010: Menswear Preview

LFW_Menswear_Wintle

Dig out your sartorial best, gents – it’s that time of year again!

The British Fashion Council dedicates it’s last day of the schedule to showcase our lovely city’s finest and most fabulous menswear designers. Yep, Menswear Day takes places on Wednesday 24 February. Here’s Amelia’s Magazine’s top tips for this season…

Carolyn Massey
Massey dazzled us with her gentleman-cum-millitary collection for SS 2010, seeking inspiration from a fishing village at threat from a nuclear power station.

LFW_CarolynMassey_Menswear

English satorilism, lightweight, loose trenches and industrial fabrics made for a sharp, sophisticated collection, and we’re wide-eyed to see how Massey translates her signature style for Autumn/Winter.

Lou Dalton
It’s a testament to Lou’s rising popularity that she managed to pack about a million people into the Portico Rooms of Somerset House for her SS 2010 showcase last September. Okay, I exaggarate, but this was one hot over-subscribed ticket that Amelia’s Magazine was lucky to get there hands on.

LFW_LouDalton_Menswear

Her nautical-themed collection, with chunky knits, gold tricornes and tailored chambray shirts, had a gaggle of journos clacking and whooping with delight. Dalton’s AW1011 show will no doubt deliver again.

Tim Soar
Sports-lux and tiptop tailoring were on the menu last season, when Tim Soar launched both his flagship concession in London’s Selfridges and his first on-schedule catwalk show.

LFW_TimSoar_Menswear

His love of graphic prints and aesthetic fabrics makes for statement dressing for the fashion-forward man, through effortless and unfinished tailoring combined with graphic prints. I covet these black high-gloss shorts, and I’d love to get my hand on a pair of Soar sling-backs.

Wintle
I write this as my Jsen Wintle pea-coat (cough, cough – Jsen Wintle for M&S, I’m ashamed to admit) hugs the back of my rather uncomfortable office chair. I love it. I was surprised to see this collaboration; in the past the line-up of M&S ‘designers’ hasn’t been anything to shout about.

LFW_Menswear_Wintle2

Wintle is one of the rising stars on the menswear circuit, and his SS 2010 collection dazzled, with gradient suits and muted, pastel colours. He counts David Walliams, Joely Richardson and JeffHack as friends/fans, and if he’s good enough for them, he’s good enough for us.

Elliot J Frieze
Welsh born Elliot J Frieze is the one to watch this season. Little is known about what Frieze’s debut solo collection might hold, but if his work on collaborative label Qasimi was anything to go by, we’re in for a treat. Qasimi fused couture techniques with wearable dresses for womenswear.

LFW_Elliott-J-Frieze_Menswear

Frieze’s solo collection promises a’ sophisticated, modern collection of classic and hybrid tailored cuts’ for the fashion-concious gentleman. Inspired by British heritage, this is one collection we can’t wait to see.

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Carolyn Massey, ,Elliot J Frieze, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lou Dalton, ,Tim Soar, ,Wintle

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Omar Kashoura & Wintle. Starring Billie Piper.

All images courtesy of Camila Soares

There are a lot of amazing artists coming out of Brazil at the moment, nurse which can be attested to by our previous interview with Rodrigo Souto. My latest favourite to fly out from under the equator is illustrator, Camila Soares.

The very first thing that popped into my head when visiting her online portfolio was a slack jawed, ‘whoooa’. Probably not the most intellectual response, especially from an Art Editor, but there you have it, and from her illustrations included here, I think you can see why.

I especially love her portrait of Alice Dellal. I love Alice Dellal related things anyway, for way back in 2005 before a meteoric rise to success, I bumped into Alice in an east end bathroom and she randomly told me I was beautiful. I mean, she was probably on pills at the time and it was dark, but I’m a sucker for flattery. It stuck in my ‘compliments’ of fame book. Right next to the dude who played Berko in Empire Records, who will always be number one. Berko! Not so interesting narcissitic anecdotes aside, I love the how the girlish pastel tones contrast with the ‘edgy’ (I hate that word) look of the subject.

‘Skull’ is also amazing; with a hyper realistic quality that rivals Escher. I particularly dig the errant braid of hair. Perhaps a social comment on models being bones with hair?

The photograph above nicely incorporates burning as a material strategy, which again takes fashion illustration out of its fluffy shell and gives it a little backbone. Personally, I love when illustration brings a little grit into the mix. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not talking Harmony Korine level grit, just something a little harder than the very common ‘tweecentric’ quality of work that I see all the time. Stop with the rainbows, yo.

The watercolour blotches really contribute to Camila’s individual style, which again establishes her as a really fantastic illustrator. She clearly has her own stylistic aesthetic that is reflected in her work. It’s one thing to draw well, but to express your own flair and personality in illustration is very different, and here is a case that exemplifies such a quality.

Camila’s website can be found here
All images courtesy of Camila Soares

There are a lot of amazing artists coming out of Brazil at the moment, view which can be attested to by our previous interview with Rodrigo Souto. My latest favourite to fly out from under the equator is illustrator, viagra sale Camila Soares.

The very first thing that popped into my head when visiting her online portfolio was a slack jawed, costwhoooa’. Probably not the most intellectual response, especially from an Art Editor, but there you have it, and from her illustrations included here, I think you can see why.

I especially love her portrait of Alice Dellal. I love Alice Dellal related things anyway, for way back in 2005 before a meteoric rise to success, I bumped into Alice in an east end bathroom and she randomly told me I was beautiful. I mean, she was probably on pills at the time and it was dark, but I’m a sucker for flattery. It stuck in my ‘compliments’ of fame book. Right next to the dude who played Berko in Empire Records, who will always be number one. Berko! Not so interesting narcissitic anecdotes aside, I love the how the girlish pastel tones contrast with the ‘edgy’ (I hate that word) look of the subject.

‘Skull’ is also amazing; with a hyper realistic quality that rivals Escher. I particularly dig the errant braid of hair. Perhaps a social comment on models being bones with hair?

The photograph above nicely incorporates burning as a material strategy, which again takes fashion illustration out of its fluffy shell and gives it a little backbone. Personally, I love when illustration brings a little grit into the mix. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not talking Harmony Korine level grit, just something a little harder than the very common ‘tweecentric’ quality of work that I see all the time. Stop with the rainbows, yo.

The watercolour blotches really contribute to Camila’s individual style, which again establishes her as a really fantastic illustrator. She clearly has her own stylistic aesthetic that is reflected in her work. It’s one thing to draw well, but to express your own flair and personality in illustration is very different, and here is a case that exemplifies such a quality.

Camila’s website can be found here
All images courtesy of Camila Soares

There are a lot of amazing artists coming out of Brazil at the moment, nurse which can be attested to by our previous interview with Rodrigo Souto. My latest favourite to fly out from under the equator is illustrator, price Camila Soares.

The very first thing that popped into my head when visiting her online portfolio was a slack jawed, viagra 40mgwhoooa’. Probably not the most intellectual response, especially from an Art Editor, but there you have it, and from her illustrations included here, I think you can see why.

I especially love her portrait of Alice Dellal. I love Alice Dellal related things anyway, for way back in 2005 before a meteoric rise to success, I bumped into Alice in an east end bathroom and she randomly told me I was beautiful. I mean, she was probably on pills at the time and it was dark, but I’m a sucker for flattery. It stuck in my ‘compliments’ of fame book. Right next to the dude who played Berko in Empire Records, who will always be number one. Berko! Not so interesting narcissitic anecdotes aside, I love the how the girlish pastel tones contrast with the ‘edgy’ (I hate that word) look of the subject.

‘Skull’ is also amazing; with a hyper realistic quality that rivals Escher. I particularly dig the errant braid of hair. Perhaps a social comment on models being bones with hair?

The photograph above nicely incorporates burning as a material strategy, which again takes fashion illustration out of its fluffy shell and gives it a little backbone. Personally, I love when illustration brings a little grit into the mix. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not talking Harmony Korine level grit, just something a little harder than the very common ‘tweecentric’ quality of work that I see all the time. Stop with the rainbows, yo.

The watercolour blotches really contribute to Camila’s individual style, which again establishes her as a really fantastic illustrator. She clearly has her own stylistic aesthetic that is reflected in her work. It’s one thing to draw well, but to express your own flair and personality in illustration is very different, and here is a case that exemplifies such a quality.

Camila’s website can be found here


I’ve never really had a hometown, illness as such. My family moved around a lot when I was a kid, find different towns in different countries, so I don’t have a hugely fond connection with any one city or village or whatever – Ana Silvera, I suspect, does. Her songs are infused with London, and in her debut single ‘Hometown’ the memories that linger there are the subject of whistful nostalgia, the kind that comes with retrospect after leaving home to travel the world.

Silvera is a London-born, Brooklyn-based singer-songwriter who has been performing since she was a child. Her voice is eerily similar to that of Regina Spektor (coincidentally, another Brooklynite), but where that Russian quirkstress may pepper her songs with weird guttural stops, hissing, mumbles and burbling, Ana is much happier relying on her remarkable and charming voice. It’s the kind of voice that only comes from being absolutely bloody determined to sound lovely (and it helps that she’s been singing with the English National Opera since she was extremely young), or exactly the voice I would expect from somebody who professes that her, “adolescent semi-rebellion,” phase came when she dared to add some jazz standards to her singing repertoire. Her vocals are accomplished and beautiful.

‘Hometown’ itself is a piano ballad, relatively short, but succinct in conjuring a mood of remembrance. “My soul runs in the waters/Runs in the waters around my hometown,” she sings, but the clue to the meaning behind this comes in the video (directed by Ryan Foregger) – ignore the chap in the toy factory for now (presumably some kind of metaphor for loss of innocence), focus on where Ana is. She’s floating, she’s asleep, she may be dead – she is gone, effectively, from the place that once held her, and now constitutes nothing more than a memory. The key’s in the last line – she doesn’t need, “those tears and those veils and those bells,” any more, she’s gone, she’s moved on. The singer-songwriter’s composition, piano-led and accompanied by a string section, is a fragile and delicate charm. Everyone, even those of us without hometowns, have those places where those memories can feel as much a part of the place as the paving slabs underfoot and the bricks and mortar of the walls.
Wintle. Illustration by Pearl Law.
Wintle. Illustration by Pearl Law.

The Omar Kashoura show is held down the road from Somerset House in the underground belly of bar cum restaurant Bedford & Strand. We just manage to skirt in as the show kicks off, generic the models pulling some serious saunter and pose action down the aisle and at the bar. They giggle as they pass me to retire into the make-shift dressing room, pharm which is one half of the restaurant behind a cuddle of smirking menswear editors, dapper and goading. For they know all these boys; must have shot them a thousand times for their bibles of style, male models being many times less common than female ones.

The jolly man at my ear (day job at Hackney council, no idea what he was doing at the show) mutters comments about the models as they veer in my direction “gosh, bet you like that one.” No, I don’t. “What I wouldn’t give to look like that!” Really? He’s wearing an inch of foundation. Ew. Some of my pictures call to mind the famous painting of a bartender by Manet, were it not for the prominently displayed branded bottles on the bar.

Omar Kashoura. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Omar Kashoura. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Omar Kashoura. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

There are sheeny shiny capes layered over fine gauge relaxed knits, the emphasis on detailing in necklines, cuffs and buckles. Mixing casual and dapper, these are clothes for a man who appreciates the cut and feel of fabric, the way that light glances off a material. Omar is part Arabian, echoed in the choice of predominantly swarthy, brooding models.

Another generally grim day outside BFC tent
Another generally grim day outside the BFC tent.

Billie Piper outside BFC tent
Billie Piper and pals outside the BFC tent.

From there we hotfoot it over to the Wintle show back at Somerset House. For some reason Billie Piper is loitering outside in the rainy dusk with a coterie of hangers-on. What on earth is she doing at a menswear show? I can only conclude that she has friends who work for Wintle. What a bizarre celebrity sighting. Apparently she struggled to get past security. Can you imagine her: “Don’t you know who I am?!” Outrageous!

Billie Piper at Wintle

As we wait for the show to start the photographers inexplicably start baa-ing like a herd of sheep, which I find most amusing but everyone else does their level best to ignore. Folks, that’s what six days straight in the pit with a bunch of other smelly men does to you. There are no frills at this show, no goody bag on the seat – Billie Piper offers the only untoward distraction as she studiously watches the show. I’m surprised she isn’t taking notes.

Wintle. Illustration by Pearl Law.
Wintle. Illustration by Pearl Law.

Wintle. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Wintle. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Wintle. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Wintle. Illustration by Pearl Law.
Wintle. Illustration by Pearl Law.

Wintle. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Wintle. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Jsen Wintle shows a beautiful understated collection of soft tailoring, amusingly accessorised with oversized geek glasses, earmuffs and big bags. I can imagine many of the well-dressed men in the audience secretly salivating over these eminently touchable clothes whilst they struggle to maintain an exterior air of impenetrable cool. This is how menswear should be done. What a sedate and stylish way to finally finish off my fashion week posts.

Categories ,Bedford & Strand, ,BFC Tent, ,Billie Piper, ,hackney, ,menswear, ,Omar Kashoura, ,Pearl Law, ,Somerset House, ,Wintle

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