Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Tim Soar

All Images: Katherine Tulloh, nurse website courtesy of the artist and Transition Gallery

For a new exhibition of film and drawings at East London’s Transition Gallery, sales Katherine Tulloh explores the possibility of a hidden system of codes within Alchemist drawings and the dream diaries created by Swedish Natural Scientist, Swedenborg. In the aftermath of a crisis of spirituality, Swedenborg began researching -with academic rigour- the possibility of an “‘ultra-terrestrial’ London, a secondary city in which spirits inhabited their past lives.

Amelia’s Magazine spoke to Katherine about her interest in writers who utilise London as a character within their own stories and her visualisation of writing through the moving and static image.

Your exhibition at Transition Gallery explores the dream diaries of the Swedish Naturalist Swedenborg. How did you discover the dream journals?

I went into the Swedenborg Society bookshop out of curiosity, I like that part of town (Bloomsbury). It is also near to where Poe lived in London and The Conway Hall. I loved the imagery in the dream diary and the struggle between reason and imagination.

Previously your illustrations and films have explored the literary landscapes of Poe and Baudelaire – what drew you towards visualising their writings?

They are both writers who utilise the city as a character within their own mythology. They blur the line between the now and another world. There is an atmosphere of insubstantial things, essences and emanations, of beauty as a manifestation of a perpetual beyond. Of smoke, fogs, shimmering obfuscations and of a moon setting sail over the city. Through their absent, distant world, I can better see my own city, with its scuffed, graffiti-layered surfaces—another forest of symbols, veilings and half-read signs, a world of unstable meanings, porous images which flow into each other.

Your exhibitions contain both the static and moving image, how would you describe your relationship to these methods of representation?

The drawn images both in the show and the film are an attempt to crystallise a particular idea or thought. The moving three dimensional fimed sections are more about conjuring up a state of mind or world

What possibilities of expression or narrative does film offer over the static image or vice versa?

I can be more open ended with film. When I’m making the images for my film, I create sets and project light and images into them and take hundreds of pictures, so I often end up with something very different from what I began with, film allows me to juxtapose and arrange images and have more than one thing going on at the same time by appealing to both the eyes and the ears. It also overlays images so someone’s impression of the film is a group of visual memories

The sets of the film resemble Victorian Children’s Theatre, possibly a stage for shadow puppets, is this a design inspired by research or relationship to the themes within the films?

I think my Poe film was more theatrical because his writing is very stagey and melodramatic

Where did you study?

Cambridge University and Chelsea College of Art and Design, I studied English BA and Fine Art Painting, which represents both sides of my work really, the literary ideas and the practical realisation.

Which illustrators, artists or filmakers inspire or are used as reference within your work?

The Quay Brothers, David Lynch, Kiki Smith, Paul Klee, Marcel Proust, Goya, Leonardo Da Vinci, Henry Darger

Have you seen Jan Svankmaker’s Alice? It has a similar enigmatic mood as created by your short films.

Yes, I have seen it and I very much like it so I’ll take that as a compliment.

What do you find interesting about Alchemic Drawings or the relationship between Science and Faith?

I like the use of Heiroglyphic language in Alchemy, the linking of the rational and the irrational and the idea that the smallest thing is linked to the greatest, the idea that the whole universe is a code where everything is both itself and something else.

Watercolours are frequently used within your drawings, what attracts you to the medium?

They’re very bright – I use radiant watercolour inks. also I like their irreversableness

Hermetickal is at Transition Gallery until 21st November.
Opening Times: Friday to Sunday 12-6pm.


Illustration by Abby Wright

It’s always a treat at Fashion Week to find that the show you are about to see, side effects starting in the next few minutes, and is at a totally different venue to the one you had in your head and are currently standing at. I found myself in this marvellous situation as Tim Soar‘s show approached. God knows why I thought it was at Somerset House and not at the Freemason’s Hall. Menswear day brought these kind of surprises all day – with many designers scaling down their presence. I had seen Tim’s show a year ago in the BFC tent, so how dare they move its location?!

I need not have worried as I legged it up Drury Lane, for, true to form, the show was running late and hadn’t even been seated when I showed up. I was right at the back of the queue, though – AGAIN – so decided to perch by the photographer’s pit in the hope of getting a better shot than I would have positioned on one of the back rows.

This show saw Soar draw inspiration from the 1970s, and in particular David Bowie’s character ‘Mr Newton’ in Nicholas Roeg’s epic ‘The Man Who Fell To Earth.’ This inspiration was, in true Tim Soar style, handled with delicacy and acted only as a descrete reference here and there. Trousers flared off, but not in a grotesque fancy dress sense, and lapels were elongated, but not in a Stayin’ Alive, Stayin’ Alive, Hah Hah Hah Hah sense. The bulk of the collection relied on Soar’s showmanship as a really great tailor with a unique vision.


Illustration by Abby Wright

Making the best use of luxe fabrics like mohair, satin, wool crepe and linen, models wore strict suits with a piecemeal utilitarian aesthetic. The use of Tyvek, the waxy crushed industrial material usually reserved for workers boiler suits, also adds to this technical flavour.

Blazers were banded with cummerbund-like straps in contrasting colours – where jackets were dark, the bands were of gold silk, and where jackets were sand, the bands were black. Denim made an appearance, also creating horizontal lines across structured tailoring.

Alongside this semi-formal attire, there were the usual design quirks that Tim Soar is quickly faming himself for. His appreciation of the aesthetic properties of materials and quality of texture was also on display, with crushed materials and bursts of vibrant colour (he is, after all, also a graphic designer).

It’s hard to imagine how a Tyvek jailer-style striped suit will work alongside an exemplary tailored blazer, but somehow Tim Soar’s collections always convey a stylish coherence.

This season also brought more womenswear, which is basically menswear with allowances for hips, busts and bums. It’s a testament to Tim Soar’s generally cool attitude, though, that his aesthetic works wonders on both women and men.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,1970s, ,Abby Wright, ,David Bowie, ,London Fashion Week, ,menswear, ,Mr Newton, ,S/S 2011, ,Tim Soar, ,Tyvek, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Preview: Menswear Day


Wintle, viagra order A/W 2010, illustrated by Antonia Parker

So it’s the last day of womenswear today, which means no more frocks and no more tits and arse. This is good. The womenswear press will jet off to Milan but London Fashion Week isn’t over – it’s MENSWEAR DAY tomorrow!

To celebrate, I’ve put together a list of the best of the best that we’ll be looking out for. This is by no means exclusive, because menswear day is usually pretty wonderful from start to finish. I pretty much like everything. I haven’t even touched on Matthew Miller, Morgan Allen Oliver, Christopher Shannon, KTZ, Hardy Amies, Tim Soar or Mr Hare. But, here we go anyway. In no particular order:

Carolyn Massey

Illustration by Paolo Caravello

I was hoping by now to have interviewed Carolyn Massey, but it’s a testament to her success that I haven’t managed to pin her down as yet. She only works around the sodding corner from my gaff, but it’s proven impossible in the run up to fashion week, so hopefully I’ll catch up with her when things slow down a bit (Oh my, how I’m looking forward to things slowing down a bit!)
Carolyn is easily one of my favourite menswear designers and she has an unparalleled approach to how men dress with her discrete military references and intelligent cuts. She describes a Carolyn Massey man as ‘someone with excellent taste, of course.’

E. Tautz

Illustration by Gabriel Alaya

E. Tautz, under the direction of Patrick Grant, is the epitome of Saville Row tailoring. His collections transport us to the golden age of tailoring’s most famous avenue; his cutting is second to none, his styling is extraordinary and he combines, with ease, classic English dressing with wit. Last year’s double-breasted jackets and three-piece suits had the menswear press practically falling over themselves.

Lou Dalton

Illustration by Kellie Black

I first saw Lou Dalton‘s work exactly a year ago at her salon show in the Portico Rooms, and what jolly good fun I had viewing her diminutive models sporting jazzed-up tricornes and luxurious knitwear. Last season saw Lou produce a more mature collection, featuring more great knitwear and exquisite tailored suits in vibrant tartan. Oh, I wish I’d bought that suit, I could swan around in it tomorrow. Damn.

Omar Kashoura

Illustration by Naomi Law

Omar Kashoura first caught my attention when Amelia and I caught his fantastic presentation last year in a swanky bar off the Strand. It was a superb setting in which his tailoring slotted in perfectly – dynamic suits with an exotic twist in all sorts of lovely pastel colours made for great photographs and an even better wardrobe. He’s quite rightly received NEWGEN sponsorship this year, so I am sure he’ll dazzle us again.

JW Anderson

Illustration by Chris Morris

JW Anderson has gone from strength to strength since his debut, er, whenever it was. He’s launched womenswear this year, which I haven’t seen yet, but his collections for men have been the highlight of menswear day for the past two seasons. Last season’s punk-inspired collection avoided being cheesy and instead showcased JW’s eye for styling and a fashion-forward aesthetic. The collection had it all – tartans, knits, bombers, love hearts, the lot. I can’t wait to see what he’ll come up with this year.

Sibling

Illustration by Rob Wallace

I’m sure you’re all familiar with Sibling. They really do make the most amazing knits, don’t they? Last year’s quirky striped numbers with hypnotic cartoon eyes were presented as part of the MAN installations and were by far the most enjoyable. This will be their fifth collection, and if last year’s contrasting graphic patterns and vibrant greens are anything to go by, we’re in for a treat this time around. It’s fun, it’s progressive, and it’s inspired by Frankenstein and zombies. What more could you want?

Wintle
It appears that Wintle isn’t showing this season, well not in London anyway. Bit of a shame, but last year I commissioned these beautiful illustrations by our Antonia Parker. I didn’t manage to post them last year, and I’ve been guilt ridden ever since. I’ve been worried sick and I haven’t slept. So, to quash my anxiety, I’m posting them now. Enjoy!

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Antonia Parker, ,Carolyn Massey, ,Chris Morris, ,Christopher Shannon, ,E. Tautz, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Hardy Amies, ,JW Anderson, ,Kellie Black, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lou Dalton, ,Man, ,Matthew Miller, ,menswear, ,Morgan Allen Oliver, ,Mr Hare, ,Naomi Law, ,Omar Kashoura, ,Paolo Caravello, ,preview, ,Rob Wallace, ,S/S 2011, ,Sibling, ,Somerset House, ,tailoring, ,Tim Soar, ,Wintle

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010: Menswear Preview

LFW_Menswear_Wintle

Dig out your sartorial best, gents – it’s that time of year again!

The British Fashion Council dedicates it’s last day of the schedule to showcase our lovely city’s finest and most fabulous menswear designers. Yep, Menswear Day takes places on Wednesday 24 February. Here’s Amelia’s Magazine’s top tips for this season…

Carolyn Massey
Massey dazzled us with her gentleman-cum-millitary collection for SS 2010, seeking inspiration from a fishing village at threat from a nuclear power station.

LFW_CarolynMassey_Menswear

English satorilism, lightweight, loose trenches and industrial fabrics made for a sharp, sophisticated collection, and we’re wide-eyed to see how Massey translates her signature style for Autumn/Winter.

Lou Dalton
It’s a testament to Lou’s rising popularity that she managed to pack about a million people into the Portico Rooms of Somerset House for her SS 2010 showcase last September. Okay, I exaggarate, but this was one hot over-subscribed ticket that Amelia’s Magazine was lucky to get there hands on.

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Her nautical-themed collection, with chunky knits, gold tricornes and tailored chambray shirts, had a gaggle of journos clacking and whooping with delight. Dalton’s AW1011 show will no doubt deliver again.

Tim Soar
Sports-lux and tiptop tailoring were on the menu last season, when Tim Soar launched both his flagship concession in London’s Selfridges and his first on-schedule catwalk show.

LFW_TimSoar_Menswear

His love of graphic prints and aesthetic fabrics makes for statement dressing for the fashion-forward man, through effortless and unfinished tailoring combined with graphic prints. I covet these black high-gloss shorts, and I’d love to get my hand on a pair of Soar sling-backs.

Wintle
I write this as my Jsen Wintle pea-coat (cough, cough – Jsen Wintle for M&S, I’m ashamed to admit) hugs the back of my rather uncomfortable office chair. I love it. I was surprised to see this collaboration; in the past the line-up of M&S ‘designers’ hasn’t been anything to shout about.

LFW_Menswear_Wintle2

Wintle is one of the rising stars on the menswear circuit, and his SS 2010 collection dazzled, with gradient suits and muted, pastel colours. He counts David Walliams, Joely Richardson and JeffHack as friends/fans, and if he’s good enough for them, he’s good enough for us.

Elliot J Frieze
Welsh born Elliot J Frieze is the one to watch this season. Little is known about what Frieze’s debut solo collection might hold, but if his work on collaborative label Qasimi was anything to go by, we’re in for a treat. Qasimi fused couture techniques with wearable dresses for womenswear.

LFW_Elliott-J-Frieze_Menswear

Frieze’s solo collection promises a’ sophisticated, modern collection of classic and hybrid tailored cuts’ for the fashion-concious gentleman. Inspired by British heritage, this is one collection we can’t wait to see.

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Carolyn Massey, ,Elliot J Frieze, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lou Dalton, ,Tim Soar, ,Wintle

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Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Tim Soar S/S 2010- Last Man Showing

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Tim Soar is one of the hardest working men in fashion. Not only is his clothing label belting out innovative fashion, view he also spends his time working as graphic designer, generic finding the time to squeeze in being a DJ too.

I managed a sneak press peek of Tim’s A/W 09/10 collection at his new pop-up store in Selfridges, and I wasn’t surprised to find beautifully tailored clothes with hints of design quirks. His background as a graphic designer is evident through graphic prints, linear tailoring and a passion for aesthetic materials.

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There was a latex suit to behold, which might give the appearance of being a giant elastic band, and if that’s the ideal you’re planning to work in 2010, I’d suggest hitting Selfridges soon. Silliness aside, the piece is visually stunning.

Soar has also collaborate with man-of-the-moment (Christopher) Raeburn, whose statement ensembles are crafted from recycled parachutes (recycling = thumbs up from Amelia’s Magazine). I hereby predict that this technical and very wearable fabric, to be the look for next year.

I had the chance to chat with Tim at the event, who was beaming with excitement at having his AW09/10 range bought up by Selfridges. I asked him what kind of a customer was a Tim Soar man. “I think, luckily, that concept is rather outdated,” he told me and I agree. “The great thing about menswear is that you can create a look using lots of different sources – I might buy something by Margiela, and something at Nike, for example.” Soar did, however, describe who he thought was his target customer: 30+, with a “fashion-forward” mindset.

We also discussed the redux or indeed the transformation of men into fashion-forward creatures. “I think that work changes have had the biggest effect,” Soar decides, “and through the balance of the sexes and equality of power, men are becoming incredibly fashion concious.”

His Spring/Summer 2010 show continues to impress, delivering on the idea of men as fashion-forward.

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The collection was a fusion of sports-lux pieces married with tiptop tailoring that we’re beginning to become accustomed to from Tim Soar.

Menswear staples such as wide-legged trousers and smart suit jackets were given the Tim Soar directional treatment. Whilst an origami influence was evident in the construction of pale blazers with folds aplenty.

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Materials chosen for their visual qualities were abundant, such as silver leather, while the treatment of fabrics such as creped linens followed this visual textural theme.

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A collaboration with Christopher Raeburn on a white trench was a real winner, and I hope their creative partnership continues. Continuing to draw attention the possibilities of creating high fashion out of found or recycled materials.

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Shorts and trousers were high-waisted with unfinished hems, the deconstructed look presented well sleeker pieces.

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Oxford shoes were not excluded from the Soar treatment, featuring cutaway rears that payed homage to the lady’s sling-back. Furthermore, the shoes maintained masculinity when teamed with angular jackets and tapered trousers.

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Tim’s background as a graphic designer shone through again, with sophisticated prints and a devotion to high-contrast, extremely aesthetic materials. His collections really are a feast for the eyes and the final show – the ending to six glorious days of diverse London fashion – could not have been any better.

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Lead the way, Tim.

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All photographs by Matt Bramford

Categories ,Christopher Raeburn, ,London Fashion Council, ,London Fashion Week, ,Menswear Day, ,Somerset House, ,Tim Soar

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