Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion East Menswear Installations: London Collections: Men A/W 2014 Presentation Review


Roxanne Farahmand A/W 2014 by Slowly the Eggs

Fashion East has brought the freshest designers to the London fashion catwalks for the last 13 years. It nurtures our newest talent and the likes of Jonathan Saunders, Gareth Pugh, Marios Schwab, Christopher Shannon and Lou Dalton have all propelled to success with the help of this non-profit organisation. Here’s a round up of this season’s showcase:

ROXANNE FARAHMAND


All photography by Matt Bramford

I was immediately drawn to Roxanne Farahmand‘s installation at the far side of the room; five guys draped over an Mk3 VW Golf Cabriolet head-to-toe in Nike apparel. Roxanne is a jeweller who graduated from London College of Fashion. Boy racers and the Max Power generation are Roxanne’s influences for this collection of hardcore knuckle dusters, geometric rings and necklaces.

MASSIMO CASAGRANDE

It would have been easy to dismiss Massimo Casagrande‘s simple display of hanging shirts in a room where models were draped over sports cars or lit with red spotlights. Take a closer look, though, and you have an innovative range of unique garments – shirts that make use of bubble wrap patterns, silicone and even concrete.

TOM RYLING

Tom Ryling A/W 2014 by Aysim Genc

Tom Ryling continued to experiment with materials with this ‘Ready to Fight’ collection. Five solemn models wore black ninja masks with white trousers and jackets peppered with red graffiti details. The chaotic decorations contrasted the rigid, architectural forms of his silhouettes.

LIAM HODGES

Liam Hodges‘ black and white collection – appallingly illustrated by this sole photograph because my camera gave up – was in stark contrast to the colours of his Fashion East counterparts. Workwear met streetwear with denim overalls, black and white bombers, panelled jackets and jersey pants. I urge you to check it out elsewhere and I apologise for my poor representation here.

NICOMEDE TALAVERA

The graphic lines of artist Robert Morris‘ sculptures provided Nicomede Talavera with a landscape for his A/W 2014 collection. A striking set of high-collared zip-up jackets, graphic blazers with rectangular panels and unusual combinations made for a unique first outing at Fashion East.

Categories ,AW14, ,Aysim Genc, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,installations, ,LCMAW2014, ,Liam Hodges, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Massimo Casagrande, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Mercer Street Studios, ,Nicomede Talavera, ,Roxanne Farahmand, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Tom Ryling

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Amelia’s Magazine | Book Review: Wearable Vintage Fashion by Jo Waterhouse and Clare Bridge

Wearable Vintage Fashion

A new spring title by Vivays Publishing, Wearable Vintage Fashion is written by the owners of Second Hand Rose, a vintage boutique in Worcester. Jo Waterhouse and Clare Bridge aim to provide readers with a visual reference point for any anyone interested in vintage fashion, focusing on easily attainable looks to suit a range of budgets.

Wearable Vintage Fashion
All photography by Caitlin Sinclair, page spreads courtesy of Vivays Publishing

Wearable Vintage Fashion

The book is helpfully divided up into fashion according to decades, using colour-coded sections that range from the 1920s to the 1980s. A one-page introduction to each decade gives context, discussing the impact of societal circumstances on fashion trends, and with some brief tips on recreating looks. For instance, the 1950s introduction covers the new youth culture and how it opened up a fashion market for a generation of young people with disposable income. It’s an approachable way of thinking about the socio-economic and practical considerations embedded in fashion.

Wearable Vintage Fashion

Day and eveningwear pages in each section are filled with selected items of clothing and accessories, alongside descriptive text outlining the classic shapes and textiles from each era. ‘Get the Look’ pages are places where old candid and street photographs are used as inspiration for creating on-the-page outfits and to describe common trends.

Wearable Vintage Fashion

The garments and accessories shown are incredible, with colourful, multi-textured and authentic pieces from each era featured alongside modern-day alternatives, for those that might not be able to access the real items. What lets the reading experience down however is the way garments are laid out in a collage format -without mannequins or models (or in some cases, ironing) the pieces can’t be displayed to full effect, which is a shame given how precious some of them are.

Wearable Vintage Fashion

Wearable Vintage Fashion

Later on in each chapter are ‘Icons’ pages, where the authors interpret a signature look from the decade, for example, Farrah Fawcett from the 1970s. While the intentions here are admirable – to easily recreate a look for a party or event – the styling and images aren’t of a high enough quality to appeal in a book format. It’s difficult to tread the line between a do-it-yourself guide and a higher-end coffee table book, but in this case the extraordinary subject matter warranted that closer attention be paid to the visual design.

Wearable Vintage Fashion

Wearable Vintage Fashion

More appealing are the look books, where double page spreads show the full breadth of a fashion decade including day and eveningwear. I adored the 1940s spreads in particular, with pale knitted cardigans, a sweet pink bakelite elephant brooch and an original Pendleton ‘49er’ tartan jacket.

Wearable Vintage Fashion

Wearable Vintage Fashion

The final part of the book is ‘Vintage Street Fashion’ where the authors document how various fashion bloggers and enthusiasts wear vintage clothing on a day-to-day basis. As with previous sections, the styling and quality of the images varies dramatically and appears visually inconsistent, but if you can ignore this, the insight into the lives of these women and their relationship with certain vintage pieces is worth the read.

Wearable Vintage Fashion

Wearable Vintage Fashion is by Jo Waterhouse and Clare Bridge, and published by Vivays Publishing.

Categories ,Bloggers, ,Book Review, ,Clare Bridge, ,Daywear, ,Evening Wear, ,Farrah Fawcett, ,fashion, ,Jo Waterhouse, ,Second Hand Rose, ,Street Fashion, ,styling, ,vintage, ,Vivays Publishing, ,Wearable Vintage Fashion

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Amelia’s Magazine | Alan Taylor, MAN: London Collections: Men A/W 2014 Catwalk Review


Alan Taylor S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

London Collections: Men might be the clumsiest branding known to man, but the MAN show does you no favours either. Not only do you find yourself saying aloud ‘I’m going to the MAN show’, but check out #MAN on Instagram shortly after the collections and you’ll get all sorts of unsavoury images mixed with Bobby Abley‘s pink fur or Craig Green‘s psychedelic prints.

I haven’t seen either of the above nor Alan Taylor‘s actual catwalk presentations before, so I was pretty excited about this showcase of London’s most innovative menswear designers. Irishman Alan Taylor was up first. Since starting his own label in 2011, Taylor the tailor has quickly asserted himself as one to watch.


All photography by Matt Bramford

This particular collection was inspired by Henri Matisse and Taylor’s love affair with modern art is well documented. Irish tweeds became the canvas and bursts of solid fluorescent panels became the art. Enlarged overcoats and blazers created the silhouettes – natural colours maintained Taylor’s commitment to his heritage. Most pieces were modernised with the aforementioned vibrant coloured panels – Matisse-like shapes in green and purple transformed sharp tailoring into unique and contemporary looks. Contrasting pieces like a floor-length black overcoat constructed from a heavy, shimmering fabric peppered the collection.

Taylor’s staple kilts featured alongside contemporary Oxford bags and jackets with a-line hems, proving that elements of womenswear can actually work in menswear without making the wearer look like an utter berk. Finally, zingy fluorescent accessories: leather gloves, bags and shoes, added yet another dimension to this outstanding outing.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Alan Taylor, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,LCM, ,LCMAW2014, ,London Collections Men, ,Man, ,matisse, ,menswear, ,review, ,tailoring, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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