Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration Launch Party Review: by Amelia

Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), side effects store so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, link so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, stuff when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), abortion so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), price so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, ailment so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), viagra approved so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
The Pipettes by Emma Block
The Pipettes by Emma Block.

It’s been a long run up to the official launch of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration… but on Friday it was finally party time at 123 Bethnal Green Road.

ACOFI launch Lily Vanilli cake
Bespoke Lily Vanilli cakes for the launch.

My day began with a speedy cycle up to get my hair *done* at Shine on the Green up in Stoke Newington, medications possibly not foreseeing the consequences of cycling back again against a strong wind. In the end my new glossy look held up admirably well, troche and was admired by everyone.

ACOFI launch Jan 11 Shine on Green
Getting my hair *done* at Shine on the Green.

Matt Bramford and Sally Mumby-Croft then joined me to help lug boxes of goodie bag gifts from my house over to 123 Bethnal Green Road – the delay ensuring the miraculous delivery of my beautiful Joanna Cave earrings which made it just in time from Greece.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Matt Bramford
Matt carrying boxes.

By this time we were running seriously behind, pharm so goodie bag stuffing took on a somewhat manic quality. Luckily Lucy and Nicholas soon joined us from Forward PR, followed by the lovely Heather and Felicity of Dr.Hauschka. Thank god I didn’t try to stuff the goodie bags at home by myself.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-packing bags
Packing the goodie bags.

Felicity whisked me upstairs to apply my Dr.Hauschka make up in super speedy style (why were make up artists never this fast when I did fashion shoots?!) and I emerged looking super polished and sleek. Perfect. I totally attribute all the compliments I received on the night to the skills of Shine on the Green and Dr.Hauschka. Now if only I could achieve the same effect by myself! The next day my boyfriend commented that I looked like a scarecrow once again. Sigh. Now I know why famous people depend so much on their teams of stylists.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Dr.Hauschka makeup
Felicity from Dr.Hauschka applies my makeup.

We finished with minutes to spare and I dashed downstairs to find already in place my crew of eager illustrators, Alexandra with her Pukka tea goodness… and the glorious pearlescent handiwork of Lily Vanilli perfectly arranged in the central archway just as the guests started to turn up. By this stage I realised I hadn’t eaten anything since my 7am breakfast of porridge, on which I blame the development of a strange form of reverse word Tourettes (I think Matt Bramford may mention one classic moment in his blog). It’s a miracle I made any sense in interviews.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Lily Vanilli
A close up of the fabulous Lily Vanilli concoction.

Laurel from i-D was one of the first to arrive and between 3-7pm the cosy Bunker Cafe was a whirlwind of activity.

Laurel Harple of i-D by Antonia Parker
Laurel Harple of i-D by Antonia Parker.

Everyone admired my lilac Beautiful Soul cape, Joanna Cave earrings and Nina Dolcetti shoes… which were exceedingly comfortable as promised by the designer Elisalex.

Jenny Robins creates a live sketch
Jenny Robins creates a live sketch.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Andrea Peterson
Andrea Peterson producing a live sketch. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Andrea Peterson Nyla
Andrea’s finished illustration of Nyla from Ethical Heaven.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Michelle Urvall Nyren & AbbyWright
Illustrators Michelle Urvall Nyren and Abby Wright. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

I was thrilled that so many people came – and it was wonderful to chat to so many bloggers that I’ve only met in the online world and then watch them being illustrated in a variety of utterly unique styles.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Gabby Young&Andrea Peterson
Gabby Young popped in to say hello!

Guests also received a relaxing hand massage the Dr.Hauschka way thanks to Felicity. The piles of Lily Vanilli mini scones and brownies quickly vanished, washed down with Pukka tea served in vintage teacups courtesy of 123 Bethnal Green Road.

ACOFI launch-Laurel Harple-Dr.Hauschka, Laurel i-D
Laurel Harple receives a Dr.Hauschka hand massage.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Susie Bubble
Susie Bubble. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Prince Cassius
Prince Cassius. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Jessica Bumpus, Amelia, Rebekah Roy
With Jessica Bumpus of Vogue and stylist Rebekah Roy. Photography by Matt Bramford.

By 7pm people started to arrive for the evening party and I realised that my wobbling had less to do with my Nina Dolcetti platforms and more to do with my lack of blood sugar. But then Jessica Bumpus from Vogue arrived and the adrenalin must have kicked in because I carried on straight through the evening without food, drink, or even a pee.

Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Artist Andrea
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Andrea Peterson.

ACOFI launch-Amelia Gregory-6 Day Riot
6 Day Riot.

Upstairs 6 Day Riot kick started the night’s proceedings with a set of rollicking tunes, singer Tamara easily charming the room and converting a whole new army of fans.

ACOFI launch-Max Petrossi-The Pipettes
The Pipettes. Photography by Max Petrossi.

Then lovely Pipettes Gwenno and Ani Saunders took to the decks in their inimitable polka dot outfits and got everyone dancing, lubricated by oodles of delicious Adnams beers and Vodka O.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Laura ForwardPR
Laura of Forward PR was a star behind the bar.

Our bar was woefully understaffed (my fault entirely) and I thought for a moment that I would have to step in and help out, but in the end Nicholas and Laura of Forward PR managed brilliantly and kept up the energy with lots of dance moves: much admiration and thanks. By the end of the night I hear that even The Pipettes were doing a stint behind the bar. Community effort, now that’s what I like!

ACOFI launch-Max Petrossi-Ballad Of and party
Ballad Of and other guests. Photography by Max Petrossi.

Downstairs Forward PR‘s Francesca proved an amazing saleswoman, shifting loads of books in my specially made fabric goodie bags containing a bespoke Moleskine notebook, my special Tatty Devine Cutlass Necklace in a new colourway, Dr.Hauschka goodies aplenty, Pukka teabags, a reclaimed leather heart keyring from 123, a copy of the last ever issue of Amelia’s Magazine in print and a stack of limited edition postcards. Thankyou so much everyone who bought a book – I really really appreciate it.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-goodie bags
The huge pile of goodie bags.

I also got to cut the enormous pink flowery centrepiece by Lily Vanilli, which, being double tiered, did indeed look like a totally bonkers wedding cake. Harriet of Tatty Devine then did sterling business cutting it up and handing out the delicious white chocolate fluffy concoction to appreciative guests.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Amelia Gregory
Cutting the cake. Photography by Matt Bramford.

MattBramford_ACOFI_PrickYrFinger,Amelia,TattyDevine
With my ladies Rachael and Louise from Prick Your Finger and Harriet and Rosie of Tatty Devine.

Towards the end of the night my old friend Will of the Mystery Jets arrived and put in a stonking last set, accompanied on the decks by his beautiful female friends. And the Robots in Disguise put in a fashionably late appearance.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Will Mystery jets
Will of the Mystery Jets with his friends.

Robots in Disguise with Amelia
Robots in Disguise were in my first ever Amelia’s Magazine. They’re ace. Photography by Matt Bramford.

Many thanks to everyone who helped out on the night, especially my star contributors Matt and Sally and of course the wonderful Courtney and her team from Forward PR: Laura, Francesca and Nicholas. And huge thanks to Ross and Michelle of 123 Bethnal Green Road for hosting such a memorable party, the illustrators who helped out, Liz Johnson-Artur and Max Petrossi for taking photos, Beautiful Soul, Nina Dolcetti and Joanna Cave for their wonderful designs and 6 Day Riot, The Pipettes and Will for entertaining my guests. More massive thanks to my partners – 123, Tatty Devine, Moleskine, Dr.Hauschka, Lily Vanilli, Pukka Teas, Adnams and Vodka O – for ensuring a truly memorable event.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Lily Vanilli cake
Decimating the cake.

And of course I can’t leave out a big thanks (I’m running out of large adjectives here) to all my guests, especially all of those who bought the book and have written such a wealth of amazing blog posts about the event. I am so sorry I didn’t get to meet everyone, but thankyou thankyou thankyou for supporting my ACOFI adventure xxx

ACOFI launch Jan 11-clear up
Cleaning up the next day: teacups and limes. Just about sums it up!

If you didn’t get a chance to do so at the launch do remember to get along and check out the Eco Pop Up shop instore at 123 for two weeks from the 28th January. It features many of the fabulous ethical designers from my book. Look out for lots of blogs featuring illustrations from the event… coming up shortly. And you can buy the book online on my website with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Don’t forget to also check out the Skype video interviews with featured illustrators in the book over on my Amelia’s House youtube channel.

Categories ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,6 Day Riot, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Ani Saunders, ,Antonia Parker, ,Beautiful Soul, ,Bunker Cafe, ,Courtney Blackman, ,Dr.Hauschka, ,Eco fashion, ,Emma Block, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Ethical Heaven, ,gabby young, ,Gwenno Saunders, ,i-D, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Joanna Cave, ,Laurel Harple, ,Liz Johnson-Artur, ,Matt Bramford, ,Max Petrossi, ,Moleskine, ,Mystery Jets, ,Nina Dolcetti, ,Nyla, ,Prick your Finger, ,Prince Cassius, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Robots in Disguise, ,Scout Hut, ,Shine on the Green, ,The Pipettes, ,vogue

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Accessory Designer Hope Von Joel from Eye of the World Designs

Eye of the World by Milly Jackson
Eye of the World S/S 2012 collection by Milly Jackson.

Hope Von Joel is a multi-talented knitwear designer, more about stylist, see fashion editor and accessories designer. But just how does she do it all? Read on to find out more about Eye of the World Designs.

Hope, you studied knitwear at Central Saint Martins and have also worked with the likes of Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh and Charlie le Mindu. As a stylist you’ve been a fashion editor for Super Super and now at Fiasco Magazine. What prompted the move into accessories design and was it a steep learning curve?
During my time at Central Saint Martins I worked at the houses of McQueen and Pugh on knitwear and design. These where both invaluable experiences and have definitely shaped by view of fashion to this date. It was a pleasure to see how the Design teams worked on the process behind such imaginative and wonderful collections. Styling wise yes I have previously worked with Charlie Le Mindu on his catwalk collection and Look Book; his creative flair is addictive and he is definitely a very capable and imaginative designer and business man! Styling for me is a great pleasure, I have worked on all sorts of projects from editorials for Elle Girl, Vogue, Oyster etc, to various fashion shows and big creative advertising campaigns – it’s a job with many different dimensions. I am always thrilled to work with clothing and accessories which break boundaries and challenge perceptions of the female form.  

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World Designs created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

WIth this in mind the move over to accessories designing was quite easy. Having studied the concept of design at Central Saint Martins and seeing what is on offer from the bigger design houses I felt there was definitely a place in the market for sustainable, beautifully designed and hand finished pieces that are also made in the UK. What is nice about this sort of design is the fact that people can follow it from the design to the finished piece. Much of our raw materials are recycled or reclaimed and this gives the buyer a personal experience. I had the opportunity to work with Brooke Roberts because I was styling her collections, and it has been a great platform to launch the designs and see them worn with knitwear, which is another one of my passions.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

How do you juggle your different jobs? 
It’s about time management and everything has its place. The way I work is very creative but things overlap and that’s the joy of London and the creative scene. I am with an agent in London for my styling: Clicks and Contacts. They are a great creative push in that area and the rest I am learning along the way. 

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

What’s in a name? How did you come up with Eye of the World designs?
Eye of the World Designs was thought up by my business partner Liam Motyer when we where travelling in South America. It became one of our favourite sayings and can apply to anything and everything. Our love of the organic form of wood seemed to offer a great view point on the world. I like the way it influences everything, very much like fashion; and so our use of wood has stuck.

Eye of the World S/S 2012 belts by Estelle Morris
Eye of the World S/S 2012 belts by Estelle Morris.

What inspires you when you start creating a collection and how do you ensure your ideas are translated into successful accessories. What parameters do you need to consider?
Colour colour colour colour… and wood. We take influences from anything and everything, from organic forms to marbles and glass… really anything that touches us. The colours of wood play a great influence, so if something doesn’t go with wood it’s not for us! This season we have been loving Orchids, Marbles and Wood. We always consider the season, who our customer is and what she is going to wear our accessories for. It’s like playing dress up with your favourite doll, creating a scene, place and style for each particular season.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

Most of your designs use wood – why is this and where do you source your wood from?
All our wood is sustainable, reclaimed or recycled and sourced locally to SE London. The reason we love wood is because Liam is a master craftsmen and his creativity and flair is in his manipulation of wood. We design and hand make every piece together in Peckham, with much love.

Eye of the World Designs S/S 2012
Eye of the World Designs S/S 2012.

Your pieces are notable for being extremely bold. How do you think they are best worn?
With a smile and a confidence that belongs to the wearer. I think that you should wear your clothes and accessories instead of letting them wear you.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

Your collection is styled with knitwear by Brooke Roberts – how does this collaboration work, and does it make you miss the world of knitwear? Any chance of a return?  
We worked with Brooke Roberts on two collaborations this season and last season. Last season I also styled her collections as I have done for some time. Her knitwear is luxurious and beautifully finished and her organic forms lend themselves to wooden accessories beautifully. I would love to return to knitwear and sometime soon I know I will! It’s a love and once you have the bug and the creative knowledge it’s like riding a bike.

Eye of the World Designs Converse
You recently created a special piece for the Converse Bag range. Can you tell me a little bit more about this project and what inspired your design?
Working with Converse was ace, we where asked to design a bag that reflected our love for Back to School. For us school was about movies, skating and moving forwards with speed. So we referenced the movie Back to the Future and created a real treat – a wooden and red flocked bag that combines music and design. Our signature is wood and so it seemed a perfect combination. The wood was all reclaimed and matched the original bags colour and the flocking is a technique that we are perfecting at the moment. We are also flocking wooden hats for editorials, so watch this space. We had a ball making the Converse bag and look forward to more projects in the future.

Eye of the World Designs Converse bag
What’s next for Eye of the World?
Well the world is our oyster. We hope to make more bespoke accessories because we love making extravagant pieces, which we have done for a few mega editorials that will be out in some big publications shortly. We are also now working on an A/W 2012 collection that will sparkle you all away. Eye of the World Designs continues to collaborate with all sorts of people. Our master craftsman Liam is creating some pieces with furniture makers Hendzel and Hunt for Designersblock and also for Selfridges. Lastly but most excitingly Eye of the World Designs for Brooke Roberts are now available to buy at Browns Focus and bespoke pieces are available directly from us.

You can follow Hope Von Joel‘s exploits on her blog, and don’t forget to take a peek at the Eye Of The World website too.

Categories ,accessories, ,Alexander Mc Queen, ,Back to School, ,Brooke Roberts, ,Browns Focus, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Clicks and Contacts, ,Converse Bag, ,Designersblock, ,Elle Girl, ,Estelle Morris, ,Eye of the World, ,Fashion Editor, ,Fiasco Magazine, ,Gareth Pugh, ,interview, ,knitwear, ,Liam Motyer, ,Marbles, ,Milly Jackson, ,Orchids, ,Oyster, ,Peckham, ,Reclaimed, ,recycled, ,S/S 2012, ,Selfridges, ,stylist, ,Super Super, ,sustainable, ,vogue, ,wood, ,Woodcraft

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Pick Me Up 2012 Special: An interview with fashion illustrator Jason Brooks

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

As a self-proclaimed lover of illustrating and in particular illustrating fashion, I eagerly made my way to this year’s Pick Me Up Contemporary Graphic Art Fair at Somerset House. Pick Me Up is a massively important date for anyone interested or involved in Illustration and Graphic Design, and was excellently reviewed by fellow Amelia’s Magazine illustrator Emma Block this year, most definitely worth a read, here as well as of course by Amelia herself.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum All photography by Alia Gargum

It was it a perfectly sunny London day, and I had an extra little spring in my step as Fashion Illustrator legend Jason Brooks was going to be illustrating live alongside the other guest artists and designers. You might not immediately recognise Jason Brook‘s name but you will surely know his slick, feminine style. He now has an impressive and growing client list, including Virgin Atlantic, L’Oréal, Vogue, Elle, and The Sunday Times Style Magazine, where I first remember seeing his work in print.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

I immediately approached the friendly-looking Jason Brooks who was chatting to visitors while illustrating, hanging up his work to create a makeshift gallery. I don’t know what I was expecting, but I certainly wasn’t expecting him to be so open and easy to speak to, willing to give his time and simply chat. While we talked favourite materials to use and the loveliness of ink, I noticed that he was looking at me very carefully, which is when he confessed that he was illustrating me. Moments later, a beautiful ink illustrated version of me was produced, created on a page from an old french dictionary. He had been illustrating visitors all day, drawing inspiration from them and selling the portraits to those who wished to take an original Jason Brooks portrait home. I cannot thank him enough for the long chat, and the questions he answered so well, the best of which are written here.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

You’re one of the first modern-day Fashion Illustrators I remember seeing in print just as illustration made it’s massive (and continuing) comeback. What was your first big commission?

My first big commission arrived when I was in my early twenties studying Graphic Design at Central St Martin’s, which at the time was in Longacre in Covent Garden. It was an exciting place to be and every day there had an almost party-like atmosphere, buzzing with creative energy, conversation and ideas. One day a message arrived from Vogue (before e-mail) for me to come in with my portfolio as I’d recently won an illustration competition they were running. I was immediately commissioned by Vogue to illustrate a story about New Orleans which ran over about six pages and included a whole double page spread. I remember buying a copy from a newsstand as soon as it came out, feeling on top of the world. I used coloured oil pastels on black card for this first important commission, giving the work a very direct and vibrant look. I then became a regular contributor to Vogue under the wonderful art direction of Paul Eustace. I used it as an opportunity to experiment with different media and styles in print, including some early computer illustrations, so I was the first to use a computer to illustrate for Vogue back at the very beginning of the nineties.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

You’ve drawn at Paris Couture shows for The Independent, which led to more catwalk illustrating for a range of publications like Elle and Visionaire magazine. What do you love most about drawing at the shows?

Backstage is the most interesting place to draw at a fashion show. Not only is everything much closer, but the variety of poses and activities going on provides a whole range of Degas-like subjects. Models sitting in front of mirrors being carefully made up, impromptu fashion shoots going on, camera crews, interviews and striking people are everywhere as subjects. Drawing directly from the catwalk is more difficult to do well because outfits are only visible for a limited time, but nowadays it’s easy to take lots of digital photographs and work up drawings later. I love the drama and art front of the catwalk at fashion shows too, the crowd is always fascinating. The fact that every catwalk show is a one off performance, with high stakes for those involved as well as ever-increasing production values can create really intense theatre, so I love that too.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

What advice would you give to a graduate who wants to get some experience in illustrating from the catwalk?

I started off by working for magazines who would give me accreditation and passes to go to shows as a photographer, after a little prompting from me. I would then simply take my sketchbook instead of a camera. I think when you are starting out it’s all about first of all putting together a portfolio that you feel confident to show people, and then making appointments and really pushing your work out there. I would speculatively arrange lots of ‘go sees’ and then jump on a plane to New York or Paris and try to get work, but perhaps business was more often conducted in a face-to-face way at that time. Going to the Paris couture shows with the Independent began because their editor Marion Hume approached me after I left the Royal College of Art. Luckily, I had work and sketchbooks from travelling to different places that I was able to show, so I would also say that travel drawing is a great foundation for drawing fashion. As a graduate, or anyone for that matter, some catwalk shows are much easier to get access to than others, so if you are interested in drawing at shows it might be best to start with more accessible fringe and off-schedule designers at fashion week and then work up from there.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

Thanks to the rise of digital design, a lot of Fashion Illustration has a slick, smooth, and sharp look to it. You were doing this long before it became popular. What drew you to this technique?

I was striving to create a look from using areas of flat colour for a long time before I started using computers on a regular basis. As with my Vogue commission, I used oil pastels to try to achieve this but I also really liked collage, cutting up books and magazines and experimenting with very flat gouache paint. Computers first came to my attention as a way of making pictures in the late 80′s and early 90′s, and once scanning drawings became an option I was able to combine my familiar drawing on paper with computer colouring techniques, and that particular look was born.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

Your style is undoubtedly feminine and luxurious. Has this always been the case or did it develop gradually?

The luxurious aspect perhaps is just from my idea of drawing things that are well designed and have an aesthetic appeal to me, so it was never a grand plan, just something that has happened quite by accident. I suppose it has developed over time to a certain extent because my taste has changed as I’ve learned more about architecture, fashion, design, film and so on. Looking back, I think my work has also been a reflection of a glamorous time for the western world where mid-century modernism has really come back and been reinvented through magazines like Wallpaper and through the activities of a whole generation of tastemakers in all areas of design. I happen to love drawing women because I think they can create powerful images, so in all it has been fun for me to reflect our culture’s interest in luxury and design through my illustrations.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

What are your favourite materials to work in and which digital techniques do you find yourself using again and again?

I love good old pen and paper. Biros are actually very subtle drawing tools, but I also use 4B pencils to draw out ideas and sketches which I then scan into my computer. I mainly use Photoshop and Illustrator to create my pictures digitally so I definitely still combine very basic old school technology – the dip pen, the pencil, etc. with the latest computer programmes. They are however all just tools, and I would be equally happy working in clay or building a sculpture out of sand on a beach.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

This year was your first as a guest artist at graphic design fair PIck Me Up at Somerset House. What did you enjoy and what surprised you about the whole experience?

It was a great chance to simply play with inks and coloured pencils. I made about 30 pictures or so, scribbling in an old french dictionary and on pieces of coloured paper throughout the day, which made me really enjoy the experience creatively. What surprised me was meeting so many new people who were interested in what I was doing, it was really rewarding to have direct contact and chat to them about their creativity too.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

You’ve had an impressive career so far, what do you think has been the reason(s) for your success?

Thank you, although I really don’t see myself as being successful yet. I guess any success I’ve had so far could be because I started at a very young age and have put a lot of effort and practice into my illustration because I enjoy it so much. I was fortunate in a way to have had a childhood without the modern phenomena of ‘screen time’ so I was able to immerse myself in my imagination through drawing worlds of my own instead of exploring ones created by other people. This lead on to college when creating work on paper was still very important, giving me the benefit of a ‘traditional’ academic art college experience with very little modern technology available unless I sought it out. I’ve always loved experimenting with all kinds of art forms and media, so when the digital revolution arrived in illustration and art I was very open to it and in a lucky position to be able to ride that particular wave from the beginning.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

What can we next expect from Jason Brooks?

I’m just finishing my first book called ‘A Paris Sketchbook’, which is due out in 2013. It is an eclectic collection of my own drawings and illustrations and a homage to a city which I love, published by Laurence King. My dream is that it will be the first in a series of travel sketchbooks covering different iconic cities. Aside from this I’m involved in a number of commissions with different companies and brands around the world, which is a part of my work that I really enjoy because it gives me the chance to collaborate with so many interesting people, adding a sometimes unexpected variety to what I do. I’ve also just signed with a new agency in New York called Traffic, so that’s exciting. Recently, I’ve completed a new collection of artwork for sale on my website called ‘The Gelato Series’ – all about girls eating ice cream in retro, sexy colours.

Jason Brooks Pick Me Up 2012 by Alia Gargum

It’s fascinating to hear from someone who has managed to carve such an astonishing career in fashion illustration. What a lovely guy. Be inspired! See more of Jason Brooks’ work online hereAmelia

Jason Brooks portrait

Categories ,2012, ,80s, ,90s, ,Alia Gargum, ,Amelia’s Magazine, ,catwalk, ,Central St Martins, ,collage, ,couture, ,Covent Garden, ,Creativity, ,Degas, ,Digital Art, ,Elle Magazine, ,Emma Block, ,fashion, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Feminine, ,gouache, ,illustrator, ,Jason Brooks, ,L’Oreal, ,Luxury, ,Marion Hume, ,New Orleans, ,new york, ,paris, ,Paul Eustace, ,Photoshop, ,Pick Me Up, ,portrait, ,Royal College of Art, ,Somerset House, ,The Independent, ,The Sunday Times, ,travel, ,vogue, ,Wallpaper

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Q&A with Paula Castro

information pills Gelatti, 2009″ src=”http://www.ameliasmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/Paula-Castro-Gelatti-2009.jpg” alt=”” width=”480″ height=”644″ />

Your work will be featured in the Contemporary Graphic Art Fair, ‘Pick Me Up’ at Somerset House this April. Are you excited about this?
Very much!

Being based in Paris, how do you feel about the London graphic and illustration scene? Being raised in Buenos Aires and living in Paris allows me to have quite a distance from the Parisian scene.Paris is a more contemplative and playful city to me; extremelly beautiful, much smaller, less dynamic and precise than London. I do really like London’s graphic art scene when I come across simplicity and sarcasm (in the possitive way), cleverness and a sense of humor.

When did you first become interested in illustration? When I was little I was very spaced out at school (I still am), the only way I could focus was while drawing.

I understand that you are interested in the boundary between fine art and illustration, what is it in particular that interests you? The contemplation, context, risk, experimentation and the way all these elements mix together. As an illustrator my work is accessible to many individuals, it is more direct. Working in the fine arts field allows me to experiment, to explore, to be not sure, to take risks and feed myself and my illustration. I like this expert from “A portrait of the artist as a young man” by James Joyce

(…) It it Stephen Dedalus’s declared ambition “to express myself in some mode of life or art as freely as i can and as wholly as i can, using for my defence the only arms i allow myself to use – silence, exile, and cunning.” (…)

Do you prefer to work to a design brief or exhibit your work in a gallery? The two have very different approaches, it is hard to compare.

Nature seems to be very important and appears consistently in your work. Do you work mainly from nature or imagination? Nature + founded images + music + poetry + imagination = my drawing cocktail. I usually work from images, but when I process them in my brain, imagination takes over and they end up looking very different from the original source of inspiration. Does it make sense? Or is this nonsense taking over?

You also use various techniques like playing with scale and repetition, what is it about these techniques that interests you? Yes, I do. I call them NOT repetitive patterns, which I feel is quite philosophical (in a modest way)

I really like your printed textiles and fashion illustrations. Is fashion a major inspiration for your work? Thanks! I like to see drawings taking over a dress in motion for example, because I feel they become three dimensional, almost sculptural or like a moving image. Yes, fashion is an inspiration, but only when I see diversity and individuals searching for their own style.

Your stage design for Issey Miyake was a real departure from your other work. Are there any other materials or techniques you are currently experimenting with? Issey Miyake’s stage design was a translation of my graphic universe into a three dimensional landscape. Yes, I am currently experimenting with other kind of mediums, like threads, bigger scale drawings and etchings.

What would be your ideal design brief? It is already ideal when people call me to do what I do. I prefer it when they give me a mood board or just some words. For example when I do the cooking recipes for Italian Velvet I have complete freedom and I really enjoy it.

After ‘Pick Me Up’, where will we see your work next? Mainz, Germany at Wak gallery on May 29th, Buenos Aires at Turbo gallery, a solo show in June.
Rome and Milan, limited edition prints of beachwear for Velvet magazine (monthly style magazine from La Repubblica newspaper).

If you happen to be around these places at these times, do pop by.
Paula Castro is represented by breedlondon.com
Pick Me Up: Contemporary Graphic Art Fair will take place at Somerset House from 23 April till 3 May

Categories ,Issey Miyake, ,louisa lee, ,nature, ,paula castro, ,vogue

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Q&A with Paula Castro

information pills Gelatti, 2009″ src=”http://www.ameliasmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/Paula-Castro-Gelatti-2009.jpg” alt=”” width=”480″ height=”644″ />

Your work will be featured in the Contemporary Graphic Art Fair, ‘Pick Me Up’ at Somerset House this April. Are you excited about this?
Very much!

Being based in Paris, how do you feel about the London graphic and illustration scene? Being raised in Buenos Aires and living in Paris allows me to have quite a distance from the Parisian scene.Paris is a more contemplative and playful city to me; extremelly beautiful, much smaller, less dynamic and precise than London. I do really like London’s graphic art scene when I come across simplicity and sarcasm (in the possitive way), cleverness and a sense of humor.

When did you first become interested in illustration? When I was little I was very spaced out at school (I still am), the only way I could focus was while drawing.

I understand that you are interested in the boundary between fine art and illustration, what is it in particular that interests you? The contemplation, context, risk, experimentation and the way all these elements mix together. As an illustrator my work is accessible to many individuals, it is more direct. Working in the fine arts field allows me to experiment, to explore, to be not sure, to take risks and feed myself and my illustration. I like this expert from “A portrait of the artist as a young man” by James Joyce

(…) It it Stephen Dedalus’s declared ambition “to express myself in some mode of life or art as freely as i can and as wholly as i can, using for my defence the only arms i allow myself to use – silence, exile, and cunning.” (…)

Do you prefer to work to a design brief or exhibit your work in a gallery? The two have very different approaches, it is hard to compare.

Nature seems to be very important and appears consistently in your work. Do you work mainly from nature or imagination? Nature + founded images + music + poetry + imagination = my drawing cocktail. I usually work from images, but when I process them in my brain, imagination takes over and they end up looking very different from the original source of inspiration. Does it make sense? Or is this nonsense taking over?

You also use various techniques like playing with scale and repetition, what is it about these techniques that interests you? Yes, I do. I call them NOT repetitive patterns, which I feel is quite philosophical (in a modest way)

I really like your printed textiles and fashion illustrations. Is fashion a major inspiration for your work? Thanks! I like to see drawings taking over a dress in motion for example, because I feel they become three dimensional, almost sculptural or like a moving image. Yes, fashion is an inspiration, but only when I see diversity and individuals searching for their own style.

Your stage design for Issey Miyake was a real departure from your other work. Are there any other materials or techniques you are currently experimenting with? Issey Miyake’s stage design was a translation of my graphic universe into a three dimensional landscape. Yes, I am currently experimenting with other kind of mediums, like threads, bigger scale drawings and etchings.

What would be your ideal design brief? It is already ideal when people call me to do what I do. I prefer it when they give me a mood board or just some words. For example when I do the cooking recipes for Italian Velvet I have complete freedom and I really enjoy it.

After ‘Pick Me Up’, where will we see your work next? Mainz, Germany at Wak gallery on May 29th, Buenos Aires at Turbo gallery, a solo show in June.
Rome and Milan, limited edition prints of beachwear for Velvet magazine (monthly style magazine from La Repubblica newspaper).

If you happen to be around these places at these times, do pop by.
Paula Castro is represented by breedlondon.com
Pick Me Up: Contemporary Graphic Art Fair will take place at Somerset House from 23 April till 3 May

Categories ,Issey Miyake, ,louisa lee, ,nature, ,paula castro, ,vogue

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Gemma Slack

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_2

In a strange part of town, medical in a venue that gave no clue as to why it existed (apart from having the appearance of a Travelodge) Andrew Majtenyi presented his debut collection.

I must confess, before the show I knew little about Majtenyi, so I had zero expectations. It was, in the end, a very polished show.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_3

No major boundaries were pushed; there’s still an omnipresent recession-friendly vibe at Fashion Week, yet Majtenyi’s collection was a positive one.

Sharp, tailored outfits with girlish softness were influenced by 1940s New Look optimism – in an environment of economic recovery, I guess we’re looking for the same attitudes from tailors as the admirers of Dior did during his time.

A grey palette really suited these simple, elegant pieces, and structured business-like ensembles managed to be flirtatious with shorter hem-lines.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_5

The collection progressed to include playful and humorous prints, which included dog-walkers and ketchup bottles. These also added a splash of colour to an otherwise monochromatic colour palette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_6

Flannel grey structured suits were given an edge with a flocked damask treatment, and thin belts synched in waists to create a more flattering silhouette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_1

All in all, a good show, but I’d really like to see Majtenyi’s outfits on curvaceous women with a touch more sex appeal – did anybody check these girls’ BMI?!

Andrerw M
Illustration courtesy of Valerie Pezeron

In a strange part of town, this in a venue that gave no clue as to why it existed (apart from having the appearance of a Travelodge) Andrew Majtenyi presented his debut collection.

I must confess, viagra before the show I knew little about Majtenyi, so I had zero expectations. It was, in the end, a very polished show.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_3

No major boundaries were pushed; there’s still an omnipresent recession-friendly vibe at Fashion Week, yet Majtenyi’s collection was a positive one.

Sharp, tailored outfits with girlish softness were influenced by 1940s New Look optimism – in an environment of economic recovery, I guess we’re looking for the same attitudes from tailors as the admirers of Dior did during his time.

A grey palette really suited these simple, elegant pieces, and structured business-like ensembles managed to be flirtatious with shorter hem-lines.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_5

The collection progressed to include playful and humorous prints, which included dog-walkers and ketchup bottles. These also added a splash of colour to an otherwise monochromatic colour palette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_6

Flannel grey structured suits were given an edge with a flocked damask treatment, and thin belts synched in waists to create a more flattering silhouette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_1

All in all, a good show, but I’d really like to see Majtenyi’s outfits on curvaceous women with a touch more sex appeal – did anybody check these girls’ BMI?!
Gemma Slack

Illustration courtesy of Valerie Pezeron

Fashion’s new blood is bubbling just a stone throw from Somerset House’s established dinosaurs. Last Friday, see Gemma Slack presented her new collection in the luxuriously cosy confines of Freemasons’Hall as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

CIMG1587

I was one of many who packed inside a dimly lit room complete with splendid ceiling and it was soon obvious we were not going to be treated to the usual fashion show. In lieu of a catwalk, remedy industry insiders were to be shown a projection and there was a big screen spread in one end of the room.

CIMG1591

The anticipation was of the type usually reserved for designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen and quite a few fashionista were clad from head to toe in the designer’s clothes. A phenomenon is about to be unleashed…

CIMG1589

Then the movie starts; the diaphanous mood is set with poignant music, shaky camera handling and pouting models pretending to be great actresses…and it worked in a strange kind of way! Still, I did shrink several times. The lighting was so effective that models’ ribs were highlighted like cutlets for the chop. If it was meant to be sexy then there must be something wrong with me.

But then again, it must have been done on purpose as one of Slack’s famous pieces is the spine dress. This autumn winter collection references again staples of Gemma Slack’ trade, from Dracula and Victorian references, untreated leather and golden chains. But none of them are in the film.

CIMG1590

Fashion is embracing video as a way to express mood and life style. It is all about effective communication and nothing sells little black dresses better, it is hoped, than digital short films immersing you in the world of a brand. It was all very intriguing, I must say but not at all surprising from the maverick who recently graced the pages of Grazia, Vogue and Dazed. For Gemma Slack is an artist first and foremost.

As I meandered across the room, staring at mannequins floating above in the glare of neon spotlights, I thought that maybe this is how legends are made. It’s not really about the studded hand molded vertebrae scales leather dresses, metal and aluminium materials or the mohair with human hair. We need to dream and we need to be challenged. And on that day, Gemma Slack dished out a big serving of disquieting femininity for me to take home.

Categories ,Alexandre McQueen, ,Autumn Winter 2010, ,Catwalk review, ,Dazed, ,fashion, ,Fashion Designer, ,Gemma Slack, ,Grazia, ,London Fashion Week, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,vogue

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Gemma Slack

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_2

In a strange part of town, medical in a venue that gave no clue as to why it existed (apart from having the appearance of a Travelodge) Andrew Majtenyi presented his debut collection.

I must confess, before the show I knew little about Majtenyi, so I had zero expectations. It was, in the end, a very polished show.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_3

No major boundaries were pushed; there’s still an omnipresent recession-friendly vibe at Fashion Week, yet Majtenyi’s collection was a positive one.

Sharp, tailored outfits with girlish softness were influenced by 1940s New Look optimism – in an environment of economic recovery, I guess we’re looking for the same attitudes from tailors as the admirers of Dior did during his time.

A grey palette really suited these simple, elegant pieces, and structured business-like ensembles managed to be flirtatious with shorter hem-lines.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_5

The collection progressed to include playful and humorous prints, which included dog-walkers and ketchup bottles. These also added a splash of colour to an otherwise monochromatic colour palette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_6

Flannel grey structured suits were given an edge with a flocked damask treatment, and thin belts synched in waists to create a more flattering silhouette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_1

All in all, a good show, but I’d really like to see Majtenyi’s outfits on curvaceous women with a touch more sex appeal – did anybody check these girls’ BMI?!

Andrerw M
Illustration courtesy of Valerie Pezeron

In a strange part of town, this in a venue that gave no clue as to why it existed (apart from having the appearance of a Travelodge) Andrew Majtenyi presented his debut collection.

I must confess, viagra before the show I knew little about Majtenyi, so I had zero expectations. It was, in the end, a very polished show.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_3

No major boundaries were pushed; there’s still an omnipresent recession-friendly vibe at Fashion Week, yet Majtenyi’s collection was a positive one.

Sharp, tailored outfits with girlish softness were influenced by 1940s New Look optimism – in an environment of economic recovery, I guess we’re looking for the same attitudes from tailors as the admirers of Dior did during his time.

A grey palette really suited these simple, elegant pieces, and structured business-like ensembles managed to be flirtatious with shorter hem-lines.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_5

The collection progressed to include playful and humorous prints, which included dog-walkers and ketchup bottles. These also added a splash of colour to an otherwise monochromatic colour palette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_6

Flannel grey structured suits were given an edge with a flocked damask treatment, and thin belts synched in waists to create a more flattering silhouette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_1

All in all, a good show, but I’d really like to see Majtenyi’s outfits on curvaceous women with a touch more sex appeal – did anybody check these girls’ BMI?!
Gemma Slack

Illustration courtesy of Valerie Pezeron

Fashion’s new blood is bubbling just a stone throw from Somerset House’s established dinosaurs. Last Friday, see Gemma Slack presented her new collection in the luxuriously cosy confines of Freemasons’Hall as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

CIMG1587

I was one of many who packed inside a dimly lit room complete with splendid ceiling and it was soon obvious we were not going to be treated to the usual fashion show. In lieu of a catwalk, remedy industry insiders were to be shown a projection and there was a big screen spread in one end of the room.

CIMG1591

The anticipation was of the type usually reserved for designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen and quite a few fashionista were clad from head to toe in the designer’s clothes. A phenomenon is about to be unleashed…

CIMG1589

Then the movie starts; the diaphanous mood is set with poignant music, shaky camera handling and pouting models pretending to be great actresses…and it worked in a strange kind of way! Still, I did shrink several times. The lighting was so effective that models’ ribs were highlighted like cutlets for the chop. If it was meant to be sexy then there must be something wrong with me.

But then again, it must have been done on purpose as one of Slack’s famous pieces is the spine dress. This autumn winter collection references again staples of Gemma Slack’ trade, from Dracula and Victorian references, untreated leather and golden chains. But none of them are in the film.

CIMG1590

Fashion is embracing video as a way to express mood and life style. It is all about effective communication and nothing sells little black dresses better, it is hoped, than digital short films immersing you in the world of a brand. It was all very intriguing, I must say but not at all surprising from the maverick who recently graced the pages of Grazia, Vogue and Dazed. For Gemma Slack is an artist first and foremost.

As I meandered across the room, staring at mannequins floating above in the glare of neon spotlights, I thought that maybe this is how legends are made. It’s not really about the studded hand molded vertebrae scales leather dresses, metal and aluminium materials or the mohair with human hair. We need to dream and we need to be challenged. And on that day, Gemma Slack dished out a big serving of disquieting femininity for me to take home.

Categories ,Alexandre McQueen, ,Autumn Winter 2010, ,Catwalk review, ,Dazed, ,fashion, ,Fashion Designer, ,Gemma Slack, ,Grazia, ,London Fashion Week, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,vogue

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Master at work: Albert Watson

At the top of Marylebone High Street lurks a lingerie shop with attitude. Surrounded by fashion-favourite names and organic cafés, adiposity it’s both niche-market neighbour and rebellious relative. Meet Apartment C, treat ‘a fashion retailer that just happens to sell lingerie’. And a lot more besides.

Invited to join Apartment C’s owner Kenya Cretegny for a teacup of G&T, I arrive  feeling excited, curious and thrilled to escape London’s relentless chills. While my eyes dart around the dramatic window-display, the door opens and I’m cocooned by an intense warmth that’s almost hypnotic. Falling further under Apartment C’s ‘spell’, I recline on a cherry-coloured chaise longue while Kenya explains her design-inspiration: “the home of Serge Gainsbourg” meets “the apartment of Coco Chanel at the Ritz”. Forget white-washed minimalism à la nearby boutiques. Here, it’s black walls, wax candles, red-tinted photographs and “a bit of taxidermy”, creating a boudoir-showcase for lacy, racy and eye-catching lingerie. Yet this is no ordinary ‘boudoir’; it’s grown-up and fashion conscious. No red-light-seediness or clichéd kitsch. Escapist? Definitely. And, deliciously naughty. But it’s also a place where you “feel free to stay and visit for a while”. Boys are welcome too.

A Central Saint Martins graduate, Kenya always envisaged Apartment C as a concept store, designing interiors herself, “right down to creating foam board models of the space”. First stop from the high street is the “Lounge”, where lingerie displays are instantly different, adorned with dramatic jewels and paper eyelashes. Walk through to the “Library” and discover a treasure-trove of accessories, swimwear, fashion books, trashy romance novels and G&T’s served from a retro 1930’s bar (an enviable eBay purchase). Furniture, generally, is a cool blend of Art Deco and 1960’s pieces, which seemingly never belonged anywhere else. I sense that the “Library” is Kenya’s favourite part; almost the inner workings of her imagination, to which you are granted access. Play along and purchasing possibilities are endless; who’s thinking about the rain, or recession now? With soft carpet underfoot and French perfumes spritzing the air, I’m soon agreeing with Kenya’s friendly team that I could happily move into this stylish apartment, I mean, shop.

So, which lingerie labels are seducing the Apartment C woman (or her G&T-fuelled lover on the chaise longue)? While “primary focus” is upcoming talent, Kenya and her team stocks “fashion-forward lingerie brands that [they] consider innovators”. A diverse selection, including Princesse Tam Tam, Stella McCartney, Lascivious, Fleur of England and Marlies Dekkers, appeals to many forms of femininity. Kenya shares insightfully: “women are multi-faceted and sometimes we want lingerie that is romantic, sometimes it’s fashion-focused and sometimes it’s sexy…and sometimes we just want to sit in something lovely and comfortable and have a cup of tea.” Save for a few ‘dominatrix’-style pieces, there’s nothing too intimidating about Apartment C, nothing too outrageously sexy. Even the mannequin ‘posing’ provocatively on the bar, appears refreshingly innocent. Particularly so, considering other, more overt versions of sexuality, which reinforce the psychology that women only wear lingerie for someone else. Kenya longs to change such attitudes. Wearing good underwear for yourself? “It’s like saying I love me. We all need a bit of that!”

Kenya has become a self-made ambassador for emerging lingerie designers, but  her finely-crafted backdrop to the bras and bodices has likely led to equal recognition (namely, “Vogue’s favourite lingerie boutique”). Where did the concept for Apartment C originate? Copenhagen. “We heard the most glorious party… the tinkling of glasses, music playing softly in the background, the quiet rumble of voices and then deep, throaty laughter….the whole experience felt so decadent and wonderful and alive.” Ah, the mysterious ‘C’ refers to Copenhagen? Or, Cretegna? Neither. It’s based on Kenya’s discovery that people living in ‘Apartment C’ always seem to host the best parties! Kenya’s passion for her business is tangible, from meticulously arranged costume jewellery, to spacious changing rooms, to her personal style: “…dependent on my mood, and what kind of conversation I would like to have with the world on that particular day.” Well today, Kenya’s skinny leather trousers worn with A/W 2010 aplomb are pitch-perfect ‘Apartment C’. Feminine, but strong. Sexy, but not too much. Fashion-forward and charismatic, despite  extraordinary surroundings. A fashion retailer that just happens to sell lingerie? I couldn’t agree more.
albert watson by rachel green
Illustration by Rachel Green

It’s only around the time I’ve finished asking my questions that Albert Watson seems to start warming to me. I was only given ten minutes with the photographic legend, ed author of over 250 cover shots for Vogue, page Rolling Stone and Time magazines, endless fashion and advertising shoots, and iconic film posters such as ‘Kill Bill‘ and ‘Memoirs of a Geisha‘. But when the Scotsman starts talking there is no stopping him, even though people are circling around for his attention. He motions me over to the photos on the wall, telling me how he chose it all – the printing techniques, the paper, the frames, everything. ‘Platinum prints are forever,’ explains Watson, ‘they don’t age, they don’t fade.’


Ruente Monte

Albert Watson likes to be in control of the artistic process, and he was given more opportunity to do this than usual with his commission for the Macallan, the exclusive Scottish single-malt whisky. Last night the beautiful black and white images were shown in the stunning Pimlico auction house Phillips de Pury. It’s only a shame the public won’t get the chance to see them – the works leave on a four month world tour today.

Albert Watson by Avril Kelly
Illustration by Avril Kelly

With such a wide range of work under his belt, I ask Watson what is his favourite kind of project. But he won’t be made to choose: ‘I like all of it. If I were doing celebrities every day I would hate it, and if I were doing landscapes every day I would hate it. I like the mix of things. The main thing I did for years was fashion.’ He pauses. ‘In the end I wasn’t so interested in the fashion and the celebrities, it was about the pictures.’


Gonzalez Byass Bodegas

In September Watson was awarded the prestigious Royal Photographic Society’s Centenary Medal, a lifetime achievement award. A shy but proud smile spreads across his face when I bring this up. Watson is responsible for some truly iconic celebrity shots, such as Mick Jagger as a leopard and Alfred Hitchcock with a goose, but many people don’t necessarily know him by name. Is this a good or a bad thing?

‘Ah, I don’t care!’ laughs Watson. ‘I care if you like the pictures!’ We get sidetracked talking about something else, but Watson comes back to this point later, unprompted: ‘Sometimes people might not know my name, but those I’d like to know me, they do.’ So it’s deliberate, this low profile then, I ask? ‘No!’ Watson exclaims, before adding: ‘But I’m not that interesting. I just work a lot.’

Watson is notoriously hard working, set to go to Marrakesh the day after the Macallan show, then it’s Paris, then Moscow, all before taking what he says is an unusually long Christmas break in two weeks’ time. ‘On a usual day I may work till 9pm, then I go home and have a meal and go to bed, so I can get up in the morning and work till 9pm the next day. I concentrate on the work.’


Teodoro Fernandez Montes – Elder Statesman, Forestal Peninsular SL Cantabria

I ask Watson what advice he would give to budding artist readers of Amelia’s Magazine. He answers with certainty: ‘You have to be working every single day, at what you want to do. If you work six days and have a day off, then you need to do something – think about your work, do a sketch, go to an exhibition – something, on that day too. You need to be on.’

Albert Watson by Werner Fismer
Illustration by Werner Fismer

Watson’s images for Macallan show a young couple’s journey from Spain, where the oaks that make the barrels for the whisky are grown, up to Scotland and the distillery. All black and white, the images are a mixture of wide-sweeping landscape shots, intriguing close-up details, and some incredible portraits of veterans of the whisky trade. Those of more generous means can buy the prints alongside special edition bottles of the whisky, including a limited range of customised bottles from 1946. This is the year Watson met his wife Elizabeth, when they were both four years old.


Easter Elchies House, The Macallan Estate

This is the second time Macallan has employed a photographer to illustrate its product, starting with Rankin in 2008. ‘We gave Albert complete creative freedom to represent the brand. He has created this art noir roadtrip, showing the process from beginning to end,’ says Ken Grier, director of malts at the Edrington Group, which encompasses Macallan. ‘We wanted to create something treasured and beautiful to look at.’ Grier says he has already prepared next year’s project. He won’t say what it is, but promises: ‘It will again be completely different.’

Grier hands me a glass of neat, ten year old whisky, and not being a massive whisky fan I sip it tentatively. But there is no need to worry – the drink is excellent. Smooth, deep and soulful, just like the photographs surrounding us on the walls.

See more of Albert Watson’s work here. Two new books of Watson’s have just been published: ‘Strip Search’, photos from Las Vegas, and ‘UFO: Unified Fashion Objects’, a selection of fashion photos. You can have your own work judged by Watson by entering the Macallan Masterclass.

Categories ,Albert Watson, ,alfred hitchcock, ,Kill Bill, ,Memoirs of a Geisha, ,Mick Jagger, ,Phillips de Pury, ,photography, ,Rankin, ,Rolling Stone, ,Royal Photographic Society, ,scotland, ,spain, ,Strip Search, ,The Macallan, ,Time Magazine, ,UFO, ,vogue, ,Whisky

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Drawing Fashion at the Design Museum

Gareth David Ackland lives and writes in a vibrating triskadekahedron called London. When not writing, here he makes paintings about guilt, colonialism, biodiversity loss, vanity, terrorism, evolution, consciousness and doom, which you can see on the website named below. He also eats fine cheese and entertains the severely autistic with a guitar and a kazoo.

Go and have a look at www.gackland.com

Gareth David Ackland lives and writes in a vibrating triskadekahedron called London. When not writing, pharm he makes paintings about guilt, recipe colonialism, more about biodiversity loss, vanity, terrorism, evolution, consciousness and doom, which you can see on the website named below. He also eats fine cheese and entertains the severely autistic with a guitar and a kazoo.

Go and have a look at www.gackland.com

Gareth David Ackland lives and writes in a vibrating triskadekahedron called London. When not writing, seek he makes paintings about guilt, pilule colonialism, biodiversity loss, vanity, terrorism, evolution, consciousness and doom, which you can see on the website named below. He also eats fine cheese and entertains the severely autistic with a guitar and a kazoo.

Go and have a look at www.gackland.com

Illustration by Daria Hlazatova

Fashion illustration. You may have noticed we get pretty excited about the genre, pharm particularly with Amelia’s new book on the way. Drawing Fashion at the Design Museum has been hotly anticipated and it doesn’t let down. Put together by Joelle Chariau of Galerie Bartsch & Chariau over 30 years, and the show covers fashion illustration from the early 20th century forward. The present installment at the Design Museum is the first time the collection has been shown together.

The quick overview: the show captures the power of illustration to reflect not only the fashion but also the tone of the times, in a way unique to other media forms such as photography. It proves that although photography has become the predominant media from the 1930s, illustration still holds a valid and special place in fashion.


George Lepape

The longer version: split into five eras, the exhibit focuses the viewer to the changing role of fashion illustration and its connection to the culture it is a part of. The first, From Gold to Silver 1910-29, captures the optimism and new worldviews of the early 20th century with bold use of colours, a new vibrancy and a focus on lifestyle in the illustrations. The single figures of Erté, the Vogue and La Gazette du Bon Ton George Lepape covers bring out the new silhoette of the 1920s. Stylised illustrations celebrate the lifestyles that few could afford, but which encapsulate post war enthusiasm. The highlight here: George Lepape’s Chapeaux D’Hiver for Le Bon Ton in pen, ink and watercolour, showing both the original and use in editorial.

Moving forward to 1930-46, the tone of Time & Decay reflects the changing times: the depression, the movement of focus from Paris to America during the war years, the popularity of the cinema and a focus on leisure and sportswear in fashion. This more casual tone is brought through the illustration, with looser strokes, more muted colours and more introspective compositions. This section highlights the talent of Bernard Blossac and René Bouché.


René Gruau

Enthusiasm returns in New Rhythms, New Rules 1947-59, introducing Dior‘s ‘New Look‘ in 1947. The illustrations of Réne Gruau perfectly capture the ‘exagerated elegance’ of Dior’s bold new style. His bold use of colour and line, with a predominance of red, white, back and orchre shine through this section of the exhibit. The timelessness of the illustrations is highlighted by a Vogue Paris cover illustration, first published in the 1950s, republished for the Juin/Juillet 1985 edition, that would look equally contemporary today. Another highlight is a single pink glove, showing a movement from full figure to individual detail and objects of the body.


Antonio Lopez

The true star of the show is Antonio (Lopez), the sole focus of Liberty & Licence, taking the viewer through 1960-89. Anotonio’s bold graphics in pencil and watercolour celebrate the dynamic feminism of the 1970s and especially the 1980s. This is power illustration to the max, matching the era’s power dressing with big shoulders, tight waists and attitudes to match. Hitting the mood of each decade, Antonio’s style adapts through the 1960s-80s, with a focus on form and art.


François Berthoud

The exhibit concludes with The Tradition Continues 1990-2010 and Fashion Drawing for the Future. The illustrations chosen in this section react against ‘the cult of the individual’ and big budget commerciality of fashion and advertising. Matts Gustafson and François Berthoud show new paths forward in terms of form and technique. Berthoud’s Allure de Chanel for Rebel, France (enamel on paper) reduces the figure to positive and negative forms.


Mats Gustafson

Overall, illustrations are more moody and suggestive and are often simplified to form, colour and movement. An Aurore de la Morinere for Christian Lacroix published in Süddeutsche Zeitung Magazine loses the form of figure and clothes to a shimmer of colours, becoming etherial and fantasy rather than any depiction of the body. A dark illustration for Alexander McQueen with the figure walking away from the viewer and displayed alone poignently reminds of the loss of this fashion great.

There is currently a resurgence of interest in fashion illustration and Drawing Fashion celebrates this. With any retrospective, it’s difficult to cover everything and there are a few illustrators missing – notably David Downton who we interviewed recently. The exhibition, however, demonstrates illustration’s power to take the viewer beyond the simple display of clothes and connecting what we wear with the mood, ideologies and changing tides of the 20th century.

Get all the information you need, including the line up of talks associated with the exhibition, in our listings section.

Categories ,20th Century, ,Alexander McQueen, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,America, ,Antonio Lopez, ,Bernard Blossac, ,chanel, ,Christian Lacroix, ,Daria Hlazatova, ,David Downton, ,Design Museum, ,Dior, ,Drawing Fashion, ,Erté, ,fashion, ,François Berthoud, ,Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, ,George Lepape, ,illustration, ,Joelle Chariau, ,La Gazette du Bon Ton, ,Mats Gustafson, ,New Look, ,paris, ,René Bouché, ,vogue, ,Vogue Paris

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Frieze Art Fair 2010: Exhibition Review

anarchist book fair london
Kutlag Ataman column frieze by jen costello
‘Column’ by Kutlug Ataman (2008) Thomas Dane Gallery. Illustration by Jenny Costello.

Unlike the formidable ‘fashion pack’ who rear their waspish heads every 6 months, website like this the art crowd – a jolly army of jacquard pashminas, drugs trilby hats and black horn-rimmed glasses – tend to be a more pleasant bunch. But visiting last Sunday’s Frieze Art Fair with so many of them arriving in droves, especially families (wanting little Cuthbert and Horatio to get a good cultural grounding early on) made standing in front of a particular artwork trying to ‘get’ it fairly difficult, especially when there’s someone behind you with a camera, waiting for you to get out of the way. Swarming crowds aside, the participating galleries delivered up their usual array of weird and wonderful delights. My personal favourite was ‘Clowd and Cloun’ by New York artist Roni Horn, of Eve Presenhuber Gallery, Zurich a series of images featuring a clown’s head in rapid movement (if you’ve never gotten over the film ‘IT’ like myself, then this is for you!)

Section from 'Clowd and Cloun (Gray)'  by Roni Horne,
Section from ‘Clowd and Cloun (Gray)’ by Roni Horn (2001) Eve Presenhuber Gallery. Photo by Viola Levy.

More macabre and disturbing was Berlinde de Bruyckere’s ‘Lingam’ (2010) from the Zurich Gallery Hauser & Wirth– a grotesque ‘lump of flesh’ suspended in a dome-like structure, with two legs indicating that it might have once been a person. Other works attracting attention was Belfast artist Cathy Wilkes’ intriguing installation ‘The Sea of Galilee’ (2009) courtesy of Berlin’s Giti Nourbakhsch Gallery. Featuring a scattered collection of battered objects including a life-size female figurine and a child’s nativity scenes, the work provided an intriguing reflection on religion and physical embodiment. New York’s David Zwiner Gallery unearthed ‘Trump’ (1998) a dazzling early work by Chris Ofili which demonstrates the artist’s unique manipulation of colour and texture at its most jaw-dropping (I was brought out of my awe-stricken trance by exclamations of: “Mummy, is that ELEPHANT poo?! Get over it!)

Chris Ofili 'Trump@ Photo by Linda Nylind
‘Trump’ by Chris Ofili (1998) David Zwiner. Photo by Linda Nylind courtesy of Frieze.

And the Lehmen Maupin Gallery also in New York, presented enfant terrible Tracey Emin at her provocative best with ‘Dark Hole’ (2009) – a work which among other things, takes the traditional feminine art form of embroidery and turns it on its head (quite literally some might say!)

Tracy Emin 'Dark Hole'
‘Dark Hole’ by Tracey Emin (2009) Lehmen Maupin. Photo by Viola Levy.

Frieze Projects Curator Sarah McCrory provided an engaging and accessible diversion from the serious business of browsing the works on display (and trying to chat to tired and grumpy gallery owners!) The bemused feelings of many newcomers to the art scene were summed up by Annika Ström’s project ‘Ten Embarrassed Men’ where ten be-suited corporate types shuffled around the festival looking suitably awkward (but one of them still managed to tacitly flirt with my companion to her amusement!)

Ten Embarrased Men- Linda Nylind
Annika Ström’s‘Ten Embarrassed Men.’ Photo by Linda Nylind courtesy of Frieze

And ‘Frozen’ by Cartier award-winning Simon Fujiwara took visitors on a tour of excavation sites, mostly seen through glass in certain areas below the floor of the Frieze exhibition space. Depicting a fictional Roman settlement described as “bawdy, materialistic and gender-equal,” the project was explained as the artist’s attempt to return to art in its purist form before the advent of Christianity made it “inextricably linked to piety and morality.” I wasn’t too sure how relevant this statement was given how seemingly little influence Christianity has over art today, but the project still appealed to my inner ancient-history buff!

'frozen' Photo by Linda Nylind
Section from Simon Fujiwara’s ‘Frozen’ Installation. Photo by Polly Braden courtesy of Frieze

Outside in The Sculpture Park, the endless green fields of Regents Park were a welcome break from the slightly suffocating atmosphere inside the tent, and visitors were allowed more freedom to engage with the works on display. Artist Gavin Turk’s “Les Bikes de Bois Rond” was a big hit, allowing visitors to hop on a bike, cycle round the park and return to collect their certificate on ‘having participated in an art work.’ It’s a shame many other art exhibitions can’t take place in the open air.

les bikes du bois ronde
Gavin Turk’s ‘Les Bikes du Bois Rond’ Photo by Linda Nylind courtesy of Frieze

On the Frieze Film side, Linder’s Forgetful Green stole the show in comparison to the other more abstract films presented. Shot by Vogue photographer Tim Walker, the film was an ode to hazy drunken summer days, with its motley crew of hedonistic characters (including Linder herself) painted in garish colours, who gorge on rose petals and birthday cake, and roll around fields of flowers in debauched ecstasy – in Richard Nicoll outfits naturally! I wanted to jump in the film, don a wig and some false eyelashes and throw birthday cake around with them for eternity…

forgetful green
forgetful green
forgetful green
Stills from Forgetful Green, from CT Editions: The Protagonist

Although many are now championing the smaller and more independent art fairs, when it comes to Frieze, it’s important to look beyond the corporate trimmings, and the bustling crowds, as it still remains the best way to digest all that’s new and exciting in the art world in one (admittedly exhausting!) afternoon.

freize art fair by jen costello
‘Map of the World in Ties and Jackets’ by Jonathan Monk (2009), Lisson Gallery. Illustration by Jenny Costello.

Categories ,Annika Ström, ,Archaeology, ,art, ,Berlinde de Bruyckere, ,Birthday Cake, ,Cartier Award, ,Cathy Wilkes, ,Chris Ofili, ,Christianity, ,David Zwiner, ,Drunk, ,Eve Presenhuber, ,False Eyelashes, ,Freize, ,Frieze Art Fair, ,Giti Nourbakhsch, ,Hauser and Wirth, ,Jennifer Costello, ,Jenny Costello, ,Jonathan Monk, ,Kutlug Ataman, ,Lehmen Maupin, ,Linda Nylind, ,Linder, ,Lisson Gallery, ,Polly Braden, ,Regents Park, ,Richard Nicoll, ,Roman, ,Roni Horn, ,Rose Petals, ,Simon Fujiwara, ,Thomas Dane, ,Tim Walker, ,Tracey Emin, ,vogue, ,Wig

Similar Posts: