Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: DAKS (by Nick)

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Daks A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Daks A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Half past six on a Saturday morning will see me in either two places, physician going to bed following a heavy night out, cost or firmly in bed oblivious to the world around. Never will you find me rousing myself from slumber and blindly stumbling into the shower. That is unless its Fashion Week. DAKs is up there with Aquascutum and Burberry as a great heritage brand, so why it gets the painful nine a.m. slot on a the Saturday morning I have no idea. After all, fashion week and the insane parties has only just begun and any intention of this year being good and pacing one’s self has flown out the window by eleven o’clock and/or your third cocktail the night before.

Daks A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins
Daks A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Still there I was sat with the lovely Jemma Crow (read her review here), both of still a little bit blearly eyed waiting for the show start. The plus side of such a ridiculous time is that there is hardly any scrum outside and its very simple to find your seats. The handy press release promised us a show reaching deep into the heritage of the brand. We were certainly not disappointed.

Daks A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Daks A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

There is a fine fine line between classic and dull, between a collection evoking a more refined time and place, and one that belongs in Evans. A criticism that had been overheard by a colleague at another show. Harsh doesn’t begin to cover it.

DAKS by Emmi Ojala
DAKS by Emmi Ojala.

Thankfully DAKS stayed exactly the right side of the line. Picture if you will a brisk stroll through the grounds of a loyal friends country estate, perhaps after a large Sunday roast complete with plenty of wine. Now picture all your friends sat around the massive log fire in the drawing room of this country house. Everyone should be wearing this collection. It was sophisticated without being stuffy, easy wearing without being trackies and hoodies.

Daks A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins
Daks A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins.

An bell shaped cape/dress in an oversized check was twinned with thick wool tights, quilted skirts navy with the house check as the lining, and chunky knits all exuded a relaxed and welcoming feel. Whilst the finale pieces of quilted full circle skirts mixed the English countryside with Paris’s New Look. Between the quilting and the knits were light satin skirts in royal blue, relaxed woolen trousers, and feminine blouses.

Daks A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins
Daks A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins.

As for the menswear, the public school boy in us all was not left out. Not a shred of denim in sight, instead relaxed almost pyjama like wool trousers in navy, brown and cream, were teamed with fitted knitwear. For the stroll around the grounds this season the DAKS has great trench coat and a Dr Who length scarf.

The collection had to draw to a close but it took with it a big chunk of my hangover, and left me wondering what the quickest way out of the capital would be.

You can see more work by Gareth A Hopkins in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Aquascutum, ,BFC, ,Burberry, ,daks, ,Dr Who, ,Emmi Ojala, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Heritage, ,Jemma Crow, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,New Look, ,paris, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Andrew Majtenyi

As you know Amelia’s magazine love to champion ethical designers, website like this so with this in mind we wondered if you could tell us why you’re compelled to design ethical fashion as opposed to disposable clothing you might find on the high street?
I don’t like the word opposed. It suggests being against something. I hope that the fashion industry collectively can all create and inspire positive evolutions in design at every level of the market.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00653Images throughout courtesy of Ada Zanditon, view photographed by Paul Persky

You’re well known within the industry for your fashion designs, but you’re a great illustrator too. Is this something you’d like to push forward and be known for in conjunction with your self named brand?
For Sure! It would be great to raise awareness of my illustrations. I would love to do a feature or collaboration. Let’s do one with one with Amelia’s Magazine!

Ada Zanditon Show PosterIllustration by Ada Zanditon

Your designs are always so beautifully sculptural yet are easily wearable and super-chic showing your ability to marry different style aesthetics. What kind of woman do you feel embodies your brand?
It could be anyone from Rihanna to Tilda Swinton! But I think strength and elegance combined is the common denominator. When I design a dress, I want the woman who wears it to feel strong, sexy and elegant.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00662

Do you have any fashion heroes, if so who?
The fabulous and bearded Andre J.

Ada Zanditon SS10 Red Dress Look Book Image

What is your inspiration for FW10, and what can we expect from your upcoming LFW fashion show?
Beautifully blended with a bruised colour palette of the low set winter sky, the structured silhouettes of webbed bare branches and beating wings, presents a collection versatile in wear from day to evening. The collection is titled ‘echolocation’ inspired by the perception of the nocturnal landscape.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00677

How do you unwind after the stresses of LFW?
I prefer to start work on the next collection. I only believe in fast forward.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00745

What has been your career’s biggest highlight to date?
It is going to be on this day: Tuesday 23rd February! My first solo show at London Fashion Week, with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Following on from success of the Ones To Watch show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout ( in Sept 09) we’re very proud to be doing our first solo show, proudly sponsored by Gleeds (one of the world’s leading construction and management consultants)!

For a relatively new designer you’ve already achieved a lot! Is there anything in particular that you are looking forward to accomplishing this decade?
To grow and develop the brand and create a strong international business that operates on the principle that people, planet and profit are of equal importance and value.
As you know Amelia’s magazine love to champion ethical designers, site so with this in mind we wondered if you could tell us why you’re compelled to design ethical fashion as opposed to disposable clothing you might find on the high street?
I don’t like the word opposed. It suggests being against something. I hope that the fashion industry collectively can all create and inspire positive evolutions in design at every level of the market.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00653Images throughout courtesy of Ada Zanditon, ailment photographed by Paul Persky

You’re well known within the industry for your fashion designs, but you’re a great illustrator too. Is this something you’d like to push forward and be known for in conjunction with your self named brand?
For Sure! It would be great to raise awareness of my illustrations. I would love to do a feature or collaboration. Let’s do one with one with Amelia’s Magazine!

Ada Zanditon Show PosterIllustration by Ada Zanditon

Your designs are always so beautifully sculptural yet are easily wearable and super-chic showing your ability to marry different style aesthetics. What kind of woman do you feel embodies your brand?
It could be anyone from Rihanna to Tilda Swinton! But I think strength and elegance combined is the common denominator. When I design a dress, I want the woman who wears it to feel strong, sexy and elegant.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00662

Do you have any fashion heroes, if so who?
The fabulous and bearded Andre J.

Ada Zanditon SS10 Red Dress Look Book Image

What is your inspiration for FW10, and what can we expect from your upcoming LFW fashion show?
Beautifully blended with a bruised colour palette of the low set winter sky, the structured silhouettes of webbed bare branches and beating wings, presents a collection versatile in wear from day to evening. The collection is titled ‘echolocation’ inspired by the perception of the nocturnal landscape.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00677

How do you unwind after the stresses of LFW?
I prefer to start work on the next collection. I only believe in fast forward.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00745

What has been your career’s biggest highlight to date?
It is going to be on this day: Tuesday 23rd February! My first solo show at London Fashion Week, with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Following on from success of the Ones To Watch show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout ( in Sept 09) we’re very proud to be doing our first solo show, proudly sponsored by Gleeds (one of the world’s leading construction and management consultants)!

For a relatively new designer you’ve already achieved a lot! Is there anything in particular that you are looking forward to accomplishing this decade?
To grow and develop the brand and create a strong international business that operates on the principle that people, planet and profit are of equal importance and value.
As you know Amelia’s magazine love to champion ethical designers, troche so with this in mind we wondered if you could tell us why you’re compelled to design ethical fashion as opposed to disposable clothing you might find on the high street?
I don’t like the word opposed. It suggests being against something. I hope that the fashion industry collectively can all create and inspire positive evolutions in design at every level of the market.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00653Images throughout courtesy of Ada Zanditon, visit this site photographed by Paul Persky

You’re well known within the industry for your fashion designs, but you’re a great illustrator too. Is this something you’d like to push forward and be known for in conjunction with your self named brand?
For Sure! It would be great to raise awareness of my illustrations. I would love to do a feature or collaboration. Let’s do one with one with Amelia’s Magazine!

Ada Zanditon Show PosterIllustration by Ada Zanditon

Your designs are always so beautifully sculptural yet are easily wearable and super-chic showing your ability to marry different style aesthetics. What kind of woman do you feel embodies your brand?
It could be anyone from Rihanna to Tilda Swinton! But I think strength and elegance combined is the common denominator. When I design a dress, I want the woman who wears it to feel strong, sexy and elegant.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00662

Do you have any fashion heroes, if so who?
The fabulous and bearded Andre J.

Ada Zanditon SS10 Red Dress Look Book Image

What is your inspiration for FW10, and what can we expect from your upcoming LFW fashion show?
Beautifully blended with a bruised colour palette of the low set winter sky, the structured silhouettes of webbed bare branches and beating wings, presents a collection versatile in wear from day to evening. The collection is titled ‘echolocation’ inspired by the perception of the nocturnal landscape.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00677

How do you unwind after the stresses of LFW?
I prefer to start work on the next collection. I only believe in fast forward.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00745

What has been your career’s biggest highlight to date?
It is going to be on this day: Tuesday 23rd February! My first solo show at London Fashion Week, with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Following on from success of the Ones To Watch show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout ( in Sept 09) we’re very proud to be doing our first solo show, proudly sponsored by Gleeds (one of the world’s leading construction and management consultants)!

For a relatively new designer you’ve already achieved a lot! Is there anything in particular that you are looking forward to accomplishing this decade?
To grow and develop the brand and create a strong international business that operates on the principle that people, planet and profit are of equal importance and value.
As you know Amelia’s magazine love to champion ethical designers, drug so with this in mind we wondered if you could tell us why you’re compelled to design ethical fashion as opposed to disposable clothing you might find on the high street?
I don’t like the word opposed. It suggests being against something. I hope that the fashion industry collectively can all create and inspire positive evolutions in design at every level of the market.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00653Images throughout courtesy of Ada Zanditon, photographed by Paul Persky

You’re well known within the industry for your fashion designs, but you’re a great illustrator too. Is this something you’d like to push forward and be known for in conjunction with your self named brand?
For Sure! It would be great to raise awareness of my illustrations. I would love to do a feature or collaboration. Let’s do one with one with Amelia’s Magazine!

Ada Zanditon Show PosterIllustration by Ada Zanditon

Your designs are always so beautifully sculptural yet are easily wearable and super-chic showing your ability to marry different style aesthetics. What kind of woman do you feel embodies your brand?
It could be anyone from Rihanna to Tilda Swinton! But I think strength and elegance combined is the common denominator. When I design a dress, I want the woman who wears it to feel strong, sexy and elegant.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00662

Do you have any fashion heroes, if so who?
The fabulous and bearded Andre J.

Ada Zanditon SS10 Red Dress Look Book Image

What is your inspiration for FW10, and what can we expect from your upcoming LFW fashion show?
Beautifully blended with a bruised colour palette of the low set winter sky, the structured silhouettes of webbed bare branches and beating wings, presents a collection versatile in wear from day to evening. The collection is titled ‘echolocation’ inspired by the perception of the nocturnal landscape.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00677

How do you unwind after the stresses of LFW?
I prefer to start work on the next collection. I only believe in fast forward.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00745

What has been your career’s biggest highlight to date?
It is going to be on this day: Tuesday 23rd February! My first solo show at London Fashion Week, with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Following on from success of the Ones To Watch show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout ( in Sept 09) we’re very proud to be doing our first solo show, proudly sponsored by Gleeds (one of the world’s leading construction and management consultants)!

For a relatively new designer you’ve already achieved a lot! Is there anything in particular that you are looking forward to accomplishing this decade?
To grow and develop the brand and create a strong international business that operates on the principle that people, planet and profit are of equal importance and value.
Andrerw M
Illustration courtesy of Valerie Pezeron

In a strange part of town, there in a venue that gave no clue as to why it existed (apart from having the appearance of a Travelodge) Andrew Majtenyi presented his debut collection.

I must confess, before the show I knew little about Majtenyi, so I had zero expectations. It was, in the end, a very polished show.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_3

No major boundaries were pushed; there’s still an omnipresent recession-friendly vibe at Fashion Week, yet Majtenyi’s collection was a positive one.

Sharp, tailored outfits with girlish softness were influenced by 1940s New Look optimism – in an environment of economic recovery, I guess we’re looking for the same attitudes from tailors as the admirers of Dior did during his time.

A grey palette really suited these simple, elegant pieces, and structured business-like ensembles managed to be flirtatious with shorter hem-lines.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_5

The collection progressed to include playful and humorous prints, which included dog-walkers and ketchup bottles. These also added a splash of colour to an otherwise monochromatic colour palette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_6

Flannel grey structured suits were given an edge with a flocked damask treatment, and thin belts synched in waists to create a more flattering silhouette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_1

All in all, a good show, but I’d really like to see Majtenyi’s outfits on curvaceous women with a touch more sex appeal – did anybody check these girls’ BMI?!

Categories ,Andrew Majtenyi, ,Catwalk review, ,Graphic Prints, ,London Fashion Week, ,New Look

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Andrew Majtenyi

As you know Amelia’s magazine love to champion ethical designers, website like this so with this in mind we wondered if you could tell us why you’re compelled to design ethical fashion as opposed to disposable clothing you might find on the high street?
I don’t like the word opposed. It suggests being against something. I hope that the fashion industry collectively can all create and inspire positive evolutions in design at every level of the market.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00653Images throughout courtesy of Ada Zanditon, view photographed by Paul Persky

You’re well known within the industry for your fashion designs, but you’re a great illustrator too. Is this something you’d like to push forward and be known for in conjunction with your self named brand?
For Sure! It would be great to raise awareness of my illustrations. I would love to do a feature or collaboration. Let’s do one with one with Amelia’s Magazine!

Ada Zanditon Show PosterIllustration by Ada Zanditon

Your designs are always so beautifully sculptural yet are easily wearable and super-chic showing your ability to marry different style aesthetics. What kind of woman do you feel embodies your brand?
It could be anyone from Rihanna to Tilda Swinton! But I think strength and elegance combined is the common denominator. When I design a dress, I want the woman who wears it to feel strong, sexy and elegant.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00662

Do you have any fashion heroes, if so who?
The fabulous and bearded Andre J.

Ada Zanditon SS10 Red Dress Look Book Image

What is your inspiration for FW10, and what can we expect from your upcoming LFW fashion show?
Beautifully blended with a bruised colour palette of the low set winter sky, the structured silhouettes of webbed bare branches and beating wings, presents a collection versatile in wear from day to evening. The collection is titled ‘echolocation’ inspired by the perception of the nocturnal landscape.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00677

How do you unwind after the stresses of LFW?
I prefer to start work on the next collection. I only believe in fast forward.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00745

What has been your career’s biggest highlight to date?
It is going to be on this day: Tuesday 23rd February! My first solo show at London Fashion Week, with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Following on from success of the Ones To Watch show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout ( in Sept 09) we’re very proud to be doing our first solo show, proudly sponsored by Gleeds (one of the world’s leading construction and management consultants)!

For a relatively new designer you’ve already achieved a lot! Is there anything in particular that you are looking forward to accomplishing this decade?
To grow and develop the brand and create a strong international business that operates on the principle that people, planet and profit are of equal importance and value.
As you know Amelia’s magazine love to champion ethical designers, site so with this in mind we wondered if you could tell us why you’re compelled to design ethical fashion as opposed to disposable clothing you might find on the high street?
I don’t like the word opposed. It suggests being against something. I hope that the fashion industry collectively can all create and inspire positive evolutions in design at every level of the market.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00653Images throughout courtesy of Ada Zanditon, ailment photographed by Paul Persky

You’re well known within the industry for your fashion designs, but you’re a great illustrator too. Is this something you’d like to push forward and be known for in conjunction with your self named brand?
For Sure! It would be great to raise awareness of my illustrations. I would love to do a feature or collaboration. Let’s do one with one with Amelia’s Magazine!

Ada Zanditon Show PosterIllustration by Ada Zanditon

Your designs are always so beautifully sculptural yet are easily wearable and super-chic showing your ability to marry different style aesthetics. What kind of woman do you feel embodies your brand?
It could be anyone from Rihanna to Tilda Swinton! But I think strength and elegance combined is the common denominator. When I design a dress, I want the woman who wears it to feel strong, sexy and elegant.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00662

Do you have any fashion heroes, if so who?
The fabulous and bearded Andre J.

Ada Zanditon SS10 Red Dress Look Book Image

What is your inspiration for FW10, and what can we expect from your upcoming LFW fashion show?
Beautifully blended with a bruised colour palette of the low set winter sky, the structured silhouettes of webbed bare branches and beating wings, presents a collection versatile in wear from day to evening. The collection is titled ‘echolocation’ inspired by the perception of the nocturnal landscape.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00677

How do you unwind after the stresses of LFW?
I prefer to start work on the next collection. I only believe in fast forward.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00745

What has been your career’s biggest highlight to date?
It is going to be on this day: Tuesday 23rd February! My first solo show at London Fashion Week, with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Following on from success of the Ones To Watch show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout ( in Sept 09) we’re very proud to be doing our first solo show, proudly sponsored by Gleeds (one of the world’s leading construction and management consultants)!

For a relatively new designer you’ve already achieved a lot! Is there anything in particular that you are looking forward to accomplishing this decade?
To grow and develop the brand and create a strong international business that operates on the principle that people, planet and profit are of equal importance and value.
As you know Amelia’s magazine love to champion ethical designers, troche so with this in mind we wondered if you could tell us why you’re compelled to design ethical fashion as opposed to disposable clothing you might find on the high street?
I don’t like the word opposed. It suggests being against something. I hope that the fashion industry collectively can all create and inspire positive evolutions in design at every level of the market.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00653Images throughout courtesy of Ada Zanditon, visit this site photographed by Paul Persky

You’re well known within the industry for your fashion designs, but you’re a great illustrator too. Is this something you’d like to push forward and be known for in conjunction with your self named brand?
For Sure! It would be great to raise awareness of my illustrations. I would love to do a feature or collaboration. Let’s do one with one with Amelia’s Magazine!

Ada Zanditon Show PosterIllustration by Ada Zanditon

Your designs are always so beautifully sculptural yet are easily wearable and super-chic showing your ability to marry different style aesthetics. What kind of woman do you feel embodies your brand?
It could be anyone from Rihanna to Tilda Swinton! But I think strength and elegance combined is the common denominator. When I design a dress, I want the woman who wears it to feel strong, sexy and elegant.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00662

Do you have any fashion heroes, if so who?
The fabulous and bearded Andre J.

Ada Zanditon SS10 Red Dress Look Book Image

What is your inspiration for FW10, and what can we expect from your upcoming LFW fashion show?
Beautifully blended with a bruised colour palette of the low set winter sky, the structured silhouettes of webbed bare branches and beating wings, presents a collection versatile in wear from day to evening. The collection is titled ‘echolocation’ inspired by the perception of the nocturnal landscape.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00677

How do you unwind after the stresses of LFW?
I prefer to start work on the next collection. I only believe in fast forward.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00745

What has been your career’s biggest highlight to date?
It is going to be on this day: Tuesday 23rd February! My first solo show at London Fashion Week, with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Following on from success of the Ones To Watch show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout ( in Sept 09) we’re very proud to be doing our first solo show, proudly sponsored by Gleeds (one of the world’s leading construction and management consultants)!

For a relatively new designer you’ve already achieved a lot! Is there anything in particular that you are looking forward to accomplishing this decade?
To grow and develop the brand and create a strong international business that operates on the principle that people, planet and profit are of equal importance and value.
As you know Amelia’s magazine love to champion ethical designers, drug so with this in mind we wondered if you could tell us why you’re compelled to design ethical fashion as opposed to disposable clothing you might find on the high street?
I don’t like the word opposed. It suggests being against something. I hope that the fashion industry collectively can all create and inspire positive evolutions in design at every level of the market.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00653Images throughout courtesy of Ada Zanditon, photographed by Paul Persky

You’re well known within the industry for your fashion designs, but you’re a great illustrator too. Is this something you’d like to push forward and be known for in conjunction with your self named brand?
For Sure! It would be great to raise awareness of my illustrations. I would love to do a feature or collaboration. Let’s do one with one with Amelia’s Magazine!

Ada Zanditon Show PosterIllustration by Ada Zanditon

Your designs are always so beautifully sculptural yet are easily wearable and super-chic showing your ability to marry different style aesthetics. What kind of woman do you feel embodies your brand?
It could be anyone from Rihanna to Tilda Swinton! But I think strength and elegance combined is the common denominator. When I design a dress, I want the woman who wears it to feel strong, sexy and elegant.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00662

Do you have any fashion heroes, if so who?
The fabulous and bearded Andre J.

Ada Zanditon SS10 Red Dress Look Book Image

What is your inspiration for FW10, and what can we expect from your upcoming LFW fashion show?
Beautifully blended with a bruised colour palette of the low set winter sky, the structured silhouettes of webbed bare branches and beating wings, presents a collection versatile in wear from day to evening. The collection is titled ‘echolocation’ inspired by the perception of the nocturnal landscape.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00677

How do you unwind after the stresses of LFW?
I prefer to start work on the next collection. I only believe in fast forward.

Ada Zanditon SS10 CREDIT photographer Paul Persky 00745

What has been your career’s biggest highlight to date?
It is going to be on this day: Tuesday 23rd February! My first solo show at London Fashion Week, with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Following on from success of the Ones To Watch show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout ( in Sept 09) we’re very proud to be doing our first solo show, proudly sponsored by Gleeds (one of the world’s leading construction and management consultants)!

For a relatively new designer you’ve already achieved a lot! Is there anything in particular that you are looking forward to accomplishing this decade?
To grow and develop the brand and create a strong international business that operates on the principle that people, planet and profit are of equal importance and value.
Andrerw M
Illustration courtesy of Valerie Pezeron

In a strange part of town, there in a venue that gave no clue as to why it existed (apart from having the appearance of a Travelodge) Andrew Majtenyi presented his debut collection.

I must confess, before the show I knew little about Majtenyi, so I had zero expectations. It was, in the end, a very polished show.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_3

No major boundaries were pushed; there’s still an omnipresent recession-friendly vibe at Fashion Week, yet Majtenyi’s collection was a positive one.

Sharp, tailored outfits with girlish softness were influenced by 1940s New Look optimism – in an environment of economic recovery, I guess we’re looking for the same attitudes from tailors as the admirers of Dior did during his time.

A grey palette really suited these simple, elegant pieces, and structured business-like ensembles managed to be flirtatious with shorter hem-lines.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_5

The collection progressed to include playful and humorous prints, which included dog-walkers and ketchup bottles. These also added a splash of colour to an otherwise monochromatic colour palette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_6

Flannel grey structured suits were given an edge with a flocked damask treatment, and thin belts synched in waists to create a more flattering silhouette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_1

All in all, a good show, but I’d really like to see Majtenyi’s outfits on curvaceous women with a touch more sex appeal – did anybody check these girls’ BMI?!

Categories ,Andrew Majtenyi, ,Catwalk review, ,Graphic Prints, ,London Fashion Week, ,New Look

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Diptyque Candles

Bands like Okkervil River are eminently missable. They’re so redolent of a slew of others, pill more about and if you’re not on friendly terms with their songs they’ll pass you by like so much jaunty, information pills pleasant Americana. They’re also a great illustration of why you should persist with music.

And that’s not some pious, try rockist view meaning you’ve got to put down what you’re reading, sit up, and pay complete attention. It’s just good to give things a chance to get beyond your initial scrobbler – which makes quickfire connections, comparisons and judgments based on an increasingly convergent shared knowledge-bank of 50 years of pop. It’s about checking in music’s hiding places for that spark that turns a casual recommendation from a friend into your favourite album of the year.

You need to listen to Okkervil River because the real star attraction is the lyrics of Will Sheff. Like a Prozac-ed Conor Oberst words tumble out of him in stanzas, cascading, beautifully chosen, but always controlled. “Although I put my lips to your face / trying to push his kiss out of its place / although my heart started to race / now it has slowed / I’ll let it go,” he sings on ‘Song Of Our So-Called Friend’.

Behind him five guys playing the alt-country instruments you’d expect stay out of the way. Childlike drummer Travis Nelson (who has excellent wiry drummer’s hair) and keyboardist and trumpeter Scott Bracket sing along with every word, like their own band’s biggest fans.

Six members is often a bad, self-indulgent idea but OR’s are always serving and augmenting their songs. The slow-burning ‘The President’s Dead’ segues masterfully into ‘Black’, which is a pretty straightforward three chord stomper but when Okkervillised it comes out yearning, wistful and layered. They’re like “partytime!” Wilco, Being There-era. There’s a touch of Arcade Fire in their scope and ear for an epic. This sometimes skirts too close to hokey, but with lyrics as good as Sheff’s they’ve earned their slide guitar solos.

On latest album The Stage Names, everything comes together during the final song ‘John Allyn Smith Sails’. All the words, all the fear, all the joy, all the themes that have preceded it fall into place when it morphs into something from a very famous album. It’s one of the most beautiful musical moments of 2007. Ruining it before you’ve heard it would be a spoiler on a par with that Planet Of The Apes video cover featuring the Statue Of Liberty.

It’s a transcendent moment tonight. They know exactly how good it is. They audaciously don’t even end the set with it. They’re rightfully confident. They may be America’s best band.

Why is it so great being 16? It’s an angsty, pill uncertain time in which you doubt everything, troche struggle with a bunch of new and confusing ordeals and inevitably puke down your top talking to the guy/girl you like at an underwhelming party. But we largely remember it with total fondness.

You needed to work your problems through to their logical conclusion, buy more about no matter how labyrinthine they seemed. You’d not yet developed the coping strategy for later life – blithely shrugging, saying “well, them’s the breaks” and getting on with it. We can all agree that that’s a far simpler and more practical way to deal with things, but Jamie Lenman of Reuben is stuck in adolescence. His last thought is his best, and he’s going to yell it at you. This is thrillingly vital. I worry for him.

Slightly overweight, borderline ugly, he’s preaching to a small and dedicated throng. It’s a metal crowd – everyone is either unfathomably young and infectious or crusty and old enough to know better. It’s like being back at your first ever gig. An unexpected obscure song, a friendly moshpit, loud, people screaming.

Lenman’s band expends tangible effort, like the best air guitarists. Drummer Guy Davis reaches Canty-like levels of inventiveness, buried under a relentless propulsive drumstorm. He sits up throughout, a skinny Rollins, if he shaved his head he’d be a nutter. Bassist Jon Pearce does a textbook tall man, long instrument, purposeful sway thing. The three of them look moments away from combusting.

They tick lots of my boxes. Inventive, heavy, melodic, loud, fast, screamy, catchy. These are mostly the wrong boxes for 2007. ‘Some Mothers Do Ave Em,’ with a gargantuan riff that Josh Homme would divorce Brody (remember her?) for, is tossed away, apparently unaware of its own greatness. ‘Let’s Stop Hanging Out’ is their pop hit – a problem, because like almost everything they’ve done, it’s structured as if written by an Asberger’s sufferer. It lurches from A to B via, like, 37, each section marginally better than the last.

This analysis is all very silly and waaaay too glowing for a band you could fairly dismiss as dunderheaded nu rock – big riffs, often-daft words, sometimes cheesy tunes. But there’s something elusive, weird and brilliant at work which makes it seem completely unfair that Reuben are playing a half-empty goth club rather than enjoying Biffy-like love and adulation at the Astoria.

Their tour DVD, documenting life in a band too poor to give up jobs at supermarkets, is the saddest music film you’ll see this year, including ‘Control’. There’s a purity to Reuben, because you feel deep down they’ve realised they’re never going to “make it”. They’re getting as much out of nights like this as they possibly can.

They will surely disappear within five years, but Lenman will be back, I assure you. He’s a genius, that kid at school who was amazing at everything he tried but strangely awkward. His songs, once you’re over their ever-so-slight similarity to a bunch of nu metal we all wish hadn’t happened, are like nothing else in 2007.

I emphatically resist that getting older means you need to listen to cerebral, reflective music. It’s patronising, and a denial of where you’ve come from. Reuben are funny, but they’re also extremely earnest, and that seems to be a dirty word these days. But why should we forget what it’s like to be earnest? Why are we ashamed of being heartfelt? Why is it ok to call directionless, indulgent “folk” beautiful and intelligent when loving heroically crafted “rock” gets you laughed at? By your early 20s these are questions that seem too unanswerable to worry about

It’s fair to assume that most bands are having fun; travelling around the country playing music and generally being outrageous on tour buses is fine work if you can get it. Kotki Dwa however sound like they’re enjoying it even more then everyone else, buy more about not only have they rummaged around the musical toy box but they’ve emptied the shop. Robin’s Clogs is a wonderfully crafted indie pop song, mind with slicing guitars not dissimilar to Foals except without the edge and with a squeaking synthesiser over the top playing out a melody as catchy as they come.

Kotki Dwa then are one of the new generation of British pop bands who are re claiming the fun in indie from across the Atlantic. Vocalist Alex, unlike so many of his contemporaries, is actually able to sing melodically and belt out fine vocals with a painfully delicate voice, sometimes sounding on the verge of tears, yet conversely remaining wistfully upbeat, lips smiling but eyes crying. You know the type. This is never more apparent than on B-side Halogen, which holds it’s own to make a single of two fine songs. Oh, and they can even sing in French.
New ways, more about new ways, site
I dream of wires.
So I press ‘c’ for comfort, information pills
I dream of wires, the old ways.
Gary Numan, ‘I Dream of Wires’

Not only an underrated Gary Numan B side, but the latest retro clothing shop to open off Brick Lane. On the opening night, I Dream of Wires offered a kaleidoscopic mix of vintage fashion and nostalgic trinkets creating an environment Mr Benn would have reveled in. Had he actually existed outside of television. (For those who were not raised on children’s cartoons, Mr Benn was my childhood hero and the eponymous character of the classic children’s television show. He tried on clothes and was transported to exciting and dangerous worlds through the back door of the dressing-up shop. Now you know.) The rails ached with an eclectic clothing range as a cropped Moschino jacket with candy-striped lining hung beside a fluorescent pair of ski pants and bejewelled sweatshirt. Carla created a strong look Gary Numan would have loved, pairing a vintage dress with animal emblazoned leggings. In the display cabinets, curious and peculiar ornaments were arranged, the sort your grandparents displayed lovingly on tabletops and shelves. The changing room was continuously occupied as treasures came back and forth to be tried on for size and, happily for all, there were no January sale style brawls. Visiting the shop was like being in my own Mr Benn inspired magical adventure, starting out in the wardrobe of my babysitter in the eighties and stumbling through to my Nana’s bungalow. With so many second-hand and vintage clothing shops located around Brick Lane, I Dream of Wires is sure to appeal to those who get kicks poking fun at retro styles to create eccentric, outrageous ensembles.

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In amongst the glut of sugar coated schmaltz vying for the rather hollow accolade of Christmas number #1 for 2007 is this rather lovely cut from Welsh Wizards Super Furry Animals. A gift it is indeed. The track will be available free to fans in download format, view complete with B side and artwork on Christmas day. It’s safe to say this won’t be troubling the upper reaches of the charts then, viagra but when did SFA ever sell any records? The band’s lack of relative commercial success is still somewhat perplexing.

It matters not. Never intended to be a Christmas single, TGTKOG is one of many highlights from long player Hey Venus! released earlier this year. There are no bells or lyrics about snow. Just Gruff’s gorgeous tones, a meandering brass line and some intricate harmonies. Nadolig Llawen.

Imagine you’re watching one of those American hospital dramas on TV. Perhaps it’s the Christmas episode or season finale, medicine either way something is bound to go wrong. And when the shit hits the fan it breaks down into a montage of various characters in their scrubs, and remorseful, shop head in hands. Then, think of the music that accompanies those tearful medics. It’s emotive, driven by acoustic guitar and piano, with mildly folky vocals and a healthy dose of strings. Deadman, by House of Brothers, is one such track. Both sad and uplifting, this song has been strictly tailored in the studio to drag listeners up to peaks and down into troughs.

House of Brothers is Andrew Jackson’s solo project and is vastly different from his work with Scarecrow and The Death of Rosa Luxemburg. When I read the name of this EP I instantly thought of Jim Jarmusch’s film of the same title. House of Brothers’ release has little in common with the black and white western. I suppose you could say it’s lyrically bleak but the upbeat arrangements prevent Jackson from plumbing the depths.

Although lacking the polish of the title track, the other material has the same guitar/piano/strings, or indie-folk, sound. They are too long and it’s hard to maintain any kind of enthusiasm by the final track, correctly named The Last Ballad.

This EP is also aptly titled, because it retreads a musical style, which doesn’t have much life in it. It feels a little tired, as though most of the effort went into the first track. And was that effort worth it? As Jackson sings, “Don’t want to rise and shine for the second time. Just leave me be.” Perhaps we should.

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Having already waxed lyrical about These New Puritans after seeing them live in September, viagra approved I was more than ready and willing to get stuck into their much anticipated full-length offering, pharm Beat Pyramid. After much to-ing and fro-ing with release dates, cialis 40mg it looked like this one was going to up in the air for some time, however news is that’ll hit shelves this January and if you’ve an MP3 player, turntable, cassette deck or CD car stereo, I urge you to go out and buy it in every format and play it at high volume wherever you go. This is not THE perfect album, if such a thing even exists, and I won’t and can’t vouch for its life changing properties. However, what this is, I’d like to hope, is the beginning of something great. An album that delivers some absolutely stompingly good tracks, interspersed with a few that never take off; however it’s all a matter of context. Reaching such heights of brilliance at some points, if they fall short for just a moment at others, it hits as a minor disappointment. The fact is some of their lesser tracks would put most ‘indie’ hits to shame. Not a bad position to be in.

Beat Pyramid starts as it means to go on. The opener, …ce I Will Say This Twice which is picked up again in the closing track, sets the scene perfectly for the rest of the album. A beautiful slice of 80′s inspired, sharply constructed electronica, vocals nothing more than a mysterious, androgynous voice stating ‘I will say this Twice’. At just 16 seconds long its peculiar hypnotic effect leaves you wanting more, the sudden end coming frustratingly too soon.

Luckily the stomping drums that usher in Numbers make everything better again. As with their live performances, the beat is king on this record and having seen George Barnett (ringleader Jack’s twin brother) do some quite incredible things with a set of drumsticks, I was more than pleased to see all that demonic, tightly controlled energy translate onto record. “What’s your favourite number/What does it mean?/What’s your favourite number/what does it mean?” Jack never lets up. Insistent repetition is very much the order of the day with TNP, words becoming a beat within themselves, not what is said but more the pattern in which it’s spoken, over and over until it loses meaning but never effect.

Swords of Truth’s distorted trumpets swoop in like the opening of a Dancehall track, the beat conjuring similar reference, it’s easy to spot those unexpected influences that transform this band into something far more interesting and complex than your average post-punk outfit. It would be easy to mistake their eclectic tastes for pretension (Sonic Youth, Dubstep, the Occult, David Lynch) but they’re all laid out here, grabbed and borrowed from seemingly disparate genres. When mention was made of hip-hop whiz kid J Dilla I had my doubts, but they meant it; his irresistible, inside out beats littered throughout.

And now onto Doppelganger. I first heard this track online and immediately spent a good hour trying to track it down and just own it. A stuttering, Timbaland-esque experiment in beat and rhythm, it’s sparsity and directness carried along by, what can only be described as a ‘jangly’ electro dreamscape, giving it a kind of futuristic grandeur and irresistible head nodding appeal. It’s very rare that a band actually creates anything new but Doppelganger is so wilfully unusual and unexpected that it becomes almost impossible to place. At points I’m reminded of The Fall, Aphex Twin, GGD, Klaxons but as quickly as the comparisons come to mind, they’re dashed aside. This is something else and I’m having trouble putting my finger on it. I gave up trying. Whichever way you read it, at its core is something that just works, ultimately making it the standout track of the album.

Infinity Ytinifnl, £4, mkk3, all march along in a similar vein, perhaps a little less instantly striking, they nevertheless continue that ‘new sound’ with some impressive angular rhythms. Aggressive, brash, disjointed, taut. Heard outside of the context of this album, they would probably have had me frantically scrambling for the volume dial. Instead I just sit back and enjoy.

Things come to an unusually melancholic close with Costume, all drawn out, languid keyboards harmonising with Jack’s slow, deliberate vocals as they rise and fall through what feels like one continuous chorus. Interruption in the form of George’s powerful stuttering, staccato drumbeat, take this track to another level. The obligatory ‘Downbeat Finale’ this is not.

So, we return to the beginning again with I Will Say This Twi…, this time just 7 seconds long and ending abruptly like a sudden pull of the plug. The album comes full circle and while none of the mystery surround TNP has been solved, as impenetrable and cryptic as ever in their themes, even their intent, what they do reveal is a unexpectedly accomplished collection of off-beat, otherworldly tracks that remind you that taking a risk sometimes pays off.

Candles – pillar, symptoms tea lights and especially church candles in wine bottles. I love them all. Once I bought a load of tea lights, visit web lined them up on the windowsill behind my bed and lit them, hoping to create a nice atmosphere in my squat (ok it wasn’t actually a squat, but we did have a beetle and maggot infestation – who thought these life forms could co-exist so happily?) This ambiance lasted for about half an hour, until my friend forgot they were lit and leant back too far whilst sitting on the bed. His hair caught fire. After this debacle I’ve been banned from candles just incase I drop out of University to pursue arson as a career. But fate was quick to intervene, as some delightfully scented Diptyque candles were delivered to Amelia and I got to spark up. Diptyque began producing candles in 1963, and in the ensuing 45 years it has cornered the candle market with its exotic wax concoctions and beautiful packaging. In time for Christmas and the New Year, Diptyque have produced three limited edition winter candles – Encens (incense), Gingembre (ginger) and Epicea (spruce). These are candles your mum will actually appreciate as a gift, and so will everyone else within smelling distance. With 60 hours of burning time per candle, this seasonal trio are sure to last through the festive period to deliver the perfect aroma to cure January blues.

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dispatches: Fashion’s Dirty Secret


Illustration by Antonia Parker

Saying you work in fashion normally garners one of two reactions: awe with a smidgen of jealousy on the presumption all you do is swan around with fabrics and making swishy type movements before dashing off to an exotic shoot/party/event of the year, or utter contempt.

On arriving at a friend’s boyfriend’s drinks it was the second reaction I received. He and his friends were doing a masters degree in ethical business, and had I arrived dressed as Cruella DeVil with a baby’s head on a silver platter I possible would have got a warmer reception. As allegedly glamorous as fashion is, it is also many people’s favourite whipping boy. Neither picture is entirely true.

Channel 4’s Dispatches programme exposed the vile, undeniably horrific and illegal working conditions of UK based sweatshops. Showing the secret film to a sweatshop surveyor, he stated these compared to some of the worst conditions he’s seen in the Far East. The conditions in the sweatshop should never be allowed to happen regardless of where it is in the world: Leicester or Laos it really doesn’t matter.


Illustration by Karolina Burdon

The UK High Street actually has some very high standards when it comes to treatment of labourers. The retailers featured, including New Look, Peacocks and Jane Norman stated their supply chains were SEDEX approved. SEDEX allows retailers to independently demonstrate their commitment to ethics. Obviously this self regulation had failed. Each retailer appeared to take on board the facts and launch appropriate investigations into sub-contracting. If only they had been more proactive in the first place.

One retailer leading the way in the UK is ASOS. In the last few months they have built on the successes of Fashion Enter, a not-for-profit enterprise, specialising in garment sampling and helped them open a dedicated ASOS factory. Having a UK based factory will not only cut transport costs, carbon footprints, and lower turnaround times for ASOS but also boost the local economy.

It’s thanks to programmes like Dispatches that public awareness of poor working conditions is being raised. This is undeniably a good thing. Sweatshops like this should not be allowed to exist.

Let’s look at the facts for a moment. The story doesn’t end there and Dispatches, to their credit, touched on it. The existence of fast fashion and super cheap clothes has a huge role to play in the existence of sweatshops. In yesteryear clothes were luxury items, to be worn over and over; to be mended and repaired, to be recycled into new garments. Not so anymore.  Some of the responsibility must inevitably fall on the heads of all of us. How often have you bought a cheap top, or bargain basement jeans, or a £15 dress that was such a steal it’d be rude not to buy it? I know I have (not the dress, but you get the picture). How often do you really think about where that has come from? The Dispatches vox pop revealed that few people actually do.


Illustration by Willa Gebbie

The fact is until UK consumers begin to demand better working conditions and simultaneously agree to pay for them little will change. When asked why UK retailers rarely manufacture in the UK anymore, the answer is simple. The UK consumer won’t pay the necessary price. Why do these sweatshops exist? Because on ever dwindling profit margins short cuts will happen. Blind eyes will be turned – a feeling echoed by both Mary Portas and Melanie Rickey in their tweets after the show. Such things are, again, totally unacceptable.

I used to get asked to make outfits for people. When I gave honest rock bottom quotes, I found most of these requests vanished. Why pay £100 for a shirt when you can go down town and get one for a tenner? Scales of economy and an essentially bespoke service aside, it’s the same thing. Regardless of who does it, every piece has to be cut, every seam sewn, and every feature, rhinestone, embellishment and sequin attached. A suit has over 140 separate pieces, a zipper five, a shirt cuff six or more including buttons and buttonholes.

A lot of work goes into the shirt on your back. Those making it deserve to get paid a living wage, and work in safe conditions. Those manufacturing deserve to make a profit. The consumer deserves quality goods at the right price. At some point someone is going to lose out. Nine times out of ten this will be the person we can’t directly see.


Illustration by Karolina Burdon

So what do we do? A little bit of research goes a long way. Check out responsible manufacturers, check out your local boutiques (a small designer is often more likely to be ethical and more importantly the chance of bumping into someone in the same outfit is greatly reduced), check out eco-fashion labels (for instance in Amelia’s new book) or places like Traid, and check out ASOS’ own brand.Your t-shirt may cost £25 instead of £5, your jeans £40 instead of £15, but in each tiny way it’ll help stop sweatshops.

As one of the members of the public on the programme stated, ‘we each have to buy within our means, but that doesn’t mean buying irresponsibly.’

To watch the documentary on Channel 4’s 4oD, click here.

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,ASOS, ,Channel 4, ,designers, ,Dispatches, ,ethical, ,Far East, ,fashion, ,Fashion Enter, ,High Street, ,Jane Norman, ,Laos, ,Leicester, ,Mary Portas, ,Melanie Rickey, ,New Look, ,Peacocks, ,SEDEX, ,Sweatshops, ,traid, ,Willa Gebbie

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Amelia’s Magazine | Do Celebrities influence designer success?

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As I packed for my first ever Glastonbury, sildenafil information pills I thought PRACTICAL and WARM. My long time friend and side kick had relayed stories of the year before being a torrent of mud and rain. What dedication. She and 136, buy 999 others had traipsed through thigh high mud for 5 days all in the name of music.

So when I asked the veteran Glastonbury go-er what on earth should I pack? she could not stress enough how many thermals, fleecies, and things that can be destroyed, I should take. And don’t forget your wellies! Having just moved here from NZ and lacking all the essentials, I was pointed in the direction of the camping store and left to my own devices! I hit Katmandu for a completely uncool but practical fleece jumper and Primark to stock up on tights and cheapie things that can be thrashed – after all, you don’t go to Glastonbury to hide from the elements.

As I arrived and joined the queue for international ticket pick up I was instantly struck by gumboot envy! An array of colors and patterns strutted past and I rarely saw the same pair twice. Fortunately my own pair was black and decorated with cute pink flowers and pink soles so they made the cut.

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Check mine out on the right

We arrived 2 days early purely to get the best campsite in all of fair Glastonbury, and after setting up tent we ventured down to explore and make the most of the sunshine – after all it wasn’t going to last, right?! The market stalls were already bustling, and the scene was a feast for the eyes! Girls in vintage dresses, colored tights, floral patterns -everything high street and everything fashion was on display.

Thursday evening bought the rain and Friday saw drizzle turning the once dust bowl farm into a thick mud that threatened to steal your boots with each step. But this did not hinder efforts from the crowd to look every bit like the glossy photos we see each year of celebrities looking effortlessly cool.

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The boldest looks seemed to appear directly from the onsite costume stalls in Shangri la. Super heroes, brides, cows, video game characters and even a banana competed on the muddy catwalk.

Of course when it comes down to it, after a couple of pear ciders you’re so excited to be jumping and shaking in front of your favorite band, you forget about your own mish mash of uncoordinated practical warm things and have just want to have a damn good time!

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Me attempting the effortlessly cool look

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Today we received great news that the issues we sent to Tokyo record shop Escalator Records three months ago have finally arrived. Why it took so long we have no idea, dosage perhaps the Royal Mail staff had a good read of them before they even got on the plane.

Escalator Records is a label based record store that was opened in 2002 in Harajuku Tokyo, and has stocked the most wonderful and limited records ever since. The store is very well respected and even has some famous fans. Haruka from the store told us, “Daft Punk, the people at Ed Banger, Modular People, Annie and CSS all give big love to the store”.

They also run an internet radio show, through which they aim to spread the word about as yet unknown Japanese bands.

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Haruka was nice enough to send us some photos to prove their arrival, as we had previously believed they had been lost forever.

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With a hint of sea air, try this folksy group from the deep dark depths of Kodiak Island, remedy Alaska, have created a relaxing but catchy and almost addictive new album. It’s a move away from the acoustic sounds of their first but Port O’Brien has managed to retain a sense of their previous identity.

The album as a whole creates a brilliant relaxed nautical atmosphere, not surprisingly as most of it was written whilst the lead dude was out solo in the Gulf of Alaska fishing months of his life away. Their Arcade Fire type passion is quite mesmerising and each song did leave me wanting more.

A splash of The Go! Team style shouting/village singing on their first track draws you in with excitement although the remainder of the album is not quite so uplifting. There is a woody, dusty feel to each song, I couldn’t help but imagine sitting round a camp fire with a few old chums, a guitar and everyone singing until their heart’s were content. Maybe even a porch, a straw hat and that trusty guitar would do the trick.

Quite a good album over all, indeed, all I could do was sing along (to the first track anyway). It won’t be making history any time soon, but a nice little listen.
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Monday 7th July

Jeremy Warmsley, sales Ox.Eagle.Lion.Man, sale So So Modern, Esser and Liam Finn – Plug, Sheffield
Mumford & Sons, Jessie Quinn And The Mets, Davie Fiddle And The Lucky Egg and Derek Meins – The Luminaire, London
White Denim – Bodega Social Club, Nottingham

It’s safe to say White Denim are one of the most talked about bands of 2008 so far. So catch them while they’re in the UK, they’re ace.

Tuesday 8th July

Band Of Horses – Shepherd’s Bush Empire, London
The National – Mandela Hall, Belfast
Interpol – Manchester Apollo, Manchester
Frightened Rabbit, Esau Mwamwaya/ Radioclit and Collapsing Cities @ White Heat – Madame Jo Jo’s, London

Esau Mwamwaya and Radioclit pretty much showcase a run down of the most interesting aspects of modern world music. Absolutely guaranteed to get you dancing.

Gnarls Barkley – Astoria 2, London

Wednesday 9th July

Howling Bells and Chief – Hoxton Bar and Kitchen, London
Jaguar Love – Cockpit, Leeds
Magnetic Fields – Cadogan Hall, London

Thursday 10th July

Annie, The Clik Clik and Heloise And The Savoir Faire @ The Wonky Pop Club – Cargo, London

Friday 11th July

These New Puritans, Nelson and Zombie Zombie – Institute of Contemporary Arts, London

I don’t know why I’ve never seen These New Puritans live, I really would like to catch them at this, mainly because it would give me a chance to see Zombie Zombie again as well.

My Morning Jacket – Rescue Rooms, Nottingham
Blindfold, Capitol K and Jo Harrop – The Roundhouse, London
Cocknbullkid – Proud Galleries, London
Justice – Somerset House, London

Saturday 12th July

Bearsuit, Paul Vickers And The Leg, What Would Jesus Drive and Speccy Ginger – Buffalo Bar, London
Ghost Frequency and KASMs – Astoria 2, London
Ipso Facto and Stricken City – Be at Proud Galleries, London
Pete Doherty – Royal Albert Hall London

Sunday 13th July

Gig Of The Week
Wooden Shjips and The Heads – Cargo, London

Both of these bands are awesome, and I can’t think of a better way to spend a Sunday evening than a little bit of a freak out to some psychedelic garage.

Ben Folds – Bristol Academy, Bristol

MONDAY 7th JULY:
Monika Bobinska, viagra ‘Ambivalent Landscape’: Adam King: 20th June-13thJuly.
Cambridge Heath Road, more about London E2 9DA (Thursday-Sunday 1-6pm, Sunday 2-5pm).
New two and three dimensional collages by Adam King explore the dreams and fears of urban consumer society and its relationship to the natural world. King’s kaleiderscopic collages are made from wallpaper, pipe cleaners and print images, creating a tidal wave of debris – flowers, anatomical imagery, consumer items, broken cars, images of war – which threatens to burst out, confusing your sense of dimensions.

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Serpentine Gallery, Continuation’: Richard Prince: 26th June-7th September.
Painter, photographer, sculptor and collector, Richard Prince’s work explores American pop culture, literature and art in his follow up of Spiritual America. A direct dialogue with space, the exhibition includes an eclectic range of photography, sculptures, books, artworks to classic American ‘muscle cars’.

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TUESDAY 8th JULY:
Spacex Gallery, ‘Structures for the unseen’:Axel Antas: 12 May-12 July.
45 Preston Street?, Exeter?, EX1 1DF.
Film, large scale drawings and a series of photographs taken in the vast Catalan Pyrenees, shown alongside a selection of earlier works from Antas’ ‘Intervention’ series. ‘Catalan Pyrenees’ includes bird boxes placed amongst the landscape that stand alone on a mountain tops, whilst ‘Intervention’ series features landscapes covered in artificially created low lying mist.

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Contemporary Art Projects, ‘Cut n shunt’: Craig Fisher, Debra Swann, J.A.Nicholls: 20th June-27th July.
20 Rivington Street, London, EC2A 3DU.
Urban life, history and nature are touched upon with an injected twist of the abnormal. Transcending material boundaries with desire, playfulness gives the exhibition a sense of new possibilities.

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WEDNESDAY 9th JULY:
Penny school Gallery,‘New Talents: Fashion & Photography’: 9th July-3rd October: tues-fri 11-4pm.
55 richmond rd, Kingston upon Thames, Surrey, KT2 5BP.
Dynamic & exciting collaboration between ND Fashion & HNC Photography students; to launch the New Degree in Fashion & textiles starting at Kingston College.

WHATIFTHEWORLD/GALLERY, ‘Hypocrite’s Lament & the drain of progress’: Zander Blom and Julia Rosa Clark: 9th -26th July.
Lower Ground Floor, 23 Charlotte Road, Shoreditch, EC2A 3P8.
The remnants of art, modernism and culture are explored as well as the influence of South African life where both artists originate. Coming from a country that is often seen as dismal, brutal and segregated, this informs their fractured work.

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THURSDAY 10th JULY:
ICA, ‘A recent history of writing and drawing’: Jurg Lehni & Alex Rich: 9th July-31st August.
ICA, The Mall, London SW1Y 5AH.
Features examples of machines that enable writing and drawing as well as mechanisms which create giant wall drawings, punch messages in paper and make images on screen. Based on the misuse and reuse of modern technology.

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FRIDAY 11th JULY:
The Old Truman Brewery, ‘Interiors’: Nottingham Trent University, Kingston University, Ravenbourne College, university of Brighton, Kingston University, University of Portsmouth, Cambridge School of Art and Design: 11th-14th July.
91 Brick Lane, London E1 6QL.
The 7th week focuses on interiors. Why not take a stroll in this huge open space and view some groovy graphics, haunting photos and model homes?

Brick Lane Gallery, ‘Free for Wall: Part 2′:artists to be confirmed:11th-28th July.
196 Brick Lane, London, E1 6SA.
Still compiling raw talent from the streets, The Brick Lane Gallery presents it’s second installment of some fresh ‘n funky art. If you’re a street artist eager to showcase your work, get your skates on and send some images to: brice@thebricklanegallery.com- who knows..maybe you’ll be viewing your own work in a few days!

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Vice’s Pub, ‘Cup Rocking’: Andy Uprock: 11th July.
Old Blue Last, 38 Great Eastern St Storeditch EG2A 3ES
Using aroung 2,500 cups and mapping out large areas of cyclone fencing and sticking plastic cups into the existing diamond shaped holes, Andy transforms streets and public areas into places of interest. Cups are recycled and used for another project-now that’s what you call inspirational yet sustainable art!

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SATURDAY 12th JULY:
The Museum for objects of Vertu, ‘Dust jacket…A cover for the voyage of the beagle’: Rosie Cooper, Richard Gray, Sonja Howick , Piers Jamson , Rachael Mathews , Fleur Oakes , Matthew Robins , Audrey Reynolds , Tim Spooner: 12-13th July, 12-6pm, by appointment thereafter until 27th July.
Fleur Oakes studio, 89 Park road, New Barnet.
(Piccadilly line , cockfosters station
The museum for objects, nestled in the cosy studio of Miss Fleur Oakes, presents objects that are described as ‘compelling ;the bits and bobs that get pushed to the back of a dressing table drawer, that then find their way to a flea market’. Expect obscure objects that contain lost tales, all set within a woody wonderland.

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SUNDAY 13th JULY:
Faggionato Fine Arts, ‘National Geographic’: Maria Von Kohler, Alain Miller, John Summers, John Tiney 9th July- 21st August.
49 Albemarle Street W1S 4JR.
Four artists use source material and imagery that encapsulates a moment that bridges identity and location.

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Photos by Lucy Johnston

After hearing dribs and drabs about Pivot I was conscious of them, this site but not to the extent where I had actually checked them out. Then I heard their album, troche and I simply couldn’t fail to take notice any longer. It’s so fresh and marvelously creepy that I instantly found myself proclaiming it my album of the month. To who I have no idea, viagra order it’s not like I’m the presenter of ‘hit, miss or maybe’ on live and kicking (god I wish I was though), but I continued to proclaim none the less.

The venue was practically empty when I arrived and the support band (who i couldn’t find out the name of) received almost no love, with most people opting to bask in the sun outside. The crowd seemed to escalate nine fold in the 5 minutes before Pivot were due to appear, and the place was rammed by the time they moderately made their way on stage.

As they unleashed their barrage of musical experiments, I was intrigued by the undecided response most people seemed to adopt. Some began to dance, while most just watched intently. By the end of the first track though everyone was applauding.

Their tracks are made up of instrumentals that leap between timings, volumes and moods to create something that can’t be pigeonholed to any genre. Vocals are used, but lyrics and melodies are cast aside in favor of woops and other primal outbursts. They sound intelligent, but in a way that isn’t brash or confusing. It simply sounds good because so much thought has gone into each little section of every track.

They end their set with the ominous ‘O Soundtrack My Heart’, which sounds like it should be soundtracking some very confusing art house movie, and in many ways I think they make art house music. If such a term could exist. Half the time, you’ve no idea what’s going on, but you continue to watch anyway. You can’t help yourself, because songs become more and more intriguing as they go on.

Do you open up Grazia, this web see Alexa Chung in the ‘latest’ starry ensemble and think, “Oo! Where can I get me one of those?” Yeah, I thought not. That’s exactly what Hadley Freeman, Deputy Fashion Editor at The Guardian, thought too. However Bronwyn Cosgrave, author of Made for Each Other: Fashion & The Academy Awards, appeared to think us a more sheepish bunch at The Red Carpet: Fashion and Celebrity talk at the Barbican on Thursday 3rd July.

Andy Warhol foresaw the ‘famous for 15 minutes’ culture which we now find ourselves knee-deep in, and it was talk of reality TV that opened up this topical, lively and at times quite bitchy discussion about celebrities (French president’s wife Carla Bruni certainly won’t be getting a Christmas card from Cosgrave) and their hold over a designer’s success.

Forget being scouted as a model, fancy being scouted to be a designer’s new best friend? It would seem relationships between celebrity and stylist, stylist and designer and designer and celebrity (put in print in this months InStyle magazine) are as fickle as we thought. Marketing constructs? Really?

From Big Brother stars, to the mutual money making success of celeb/designer friendships, the conversation soon turned to the Oscars, where Cosgrave got rather too much into her stride. Resembling the host of an empowering self-help seminar, all very ‘breathe in the positive, release the negative’, Cosgrave lost my interest and it was left to Freeman to regain it with her belief that designers are today blinded by celebrity moments, and often forget that real people have to wear their clothes. It is after all ironically the customer who pays, and not the multi-million pound celebrity.

So do celebrities hold the key to designer success? Well, with the enticement of publicity and increased sales vying against the importance of brand image (Amy Winehouse and Karl Lagerfeld anyone?), it’s a tricky one to call. But with the recent credit crunch and the vast array of new, young design talent coming out of London, perhaps we are more inclined to buy what we like, what suits us and what we haven’t seen someone else wearing on Oxford Street that afternoon.

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Amelia’s Magazine | Drawing Fashion at the Design Museum

Gareth David Ackland lives and writes in a vibrating triskadekahedron called London. When not writing, here he makes paintings about guilt, colonialism, biodiversity loss, vanity, terrorism, evolution, consciousness and doom, which you can see on the website named below. He also eats fine cheese and entertains the severely autistic with a guitar and a kazoo.

Go and have a look at www.gackland.com

Gareth David Ackland lives and writes in a vibrating triskadekahedron called London. When not writing, pharm he makes paintings about guilt, recipe colonialism, more about biodiversity loss, vanity, terrorism, evolution, consciousness and doom, which you can see on the website named below. He also eats fine cheese and entertains the severely autistic with a guitar and a kazoo.

Go and have a look at www.gackland.com

Gareth David Ackland lives and writes in a vibrating triskadekahedron called London. When not writing, seek he makes paintings about guilt, pilule colonialism, biodiversity loss, vanity, terrorism, evolution, consciousness and doom, which you can see on the website named below. He also eats fine cheese and entertains the severely autistic with a guitar and a kazoo.

Go and have a look at www.gackland.com

Illustration by Daria Hlazatova

Fashion illustration. You may have noticed we get pretty excited about the genre, pharm particularly with Amelia’s new book on the way. Drawing Fashion at the Design Museum has been hotly anticipated and it doesn’t let down. Put together by Joelle Chariau of Galerie Bartsch & Chariau over 30 years, and the show covers fashion illustration from the early 20th century forward. The present installment at the Design Museum is the first time the collection has been shown together.

The quick overview: the show captures the power of illustration to reflect not only the fashion but also the tone of the times, in a way unique to other media forms such as photography. It proves that although photography has become the predominant media from the 1930s, illustration still holds a valid and special place in fashion.


George Lepape

The longer version: split into five eras, the exhibit focuses the viewer to the changing role of fashion illustration and its connection to the culture it is a part of. The first, From Gold to Silver 1910-29, captures the optimism and new worldviews of the early 20th century with bold use of colours, a new vibrancy and a focus on lifestyle in the illustrations. The single figures of Erté, the Vogue and La Gazette du Bon Ton George Lepape covers bring out the new silhoette of the 1920s. Stylised illustrations celebrate the lifestyles that few could afford, but which encapsulate post war enthusiasm. The highlight here: George Lepape’s Chapeaux D’Hiver for Le Bon Ton in pen, ink and watercolour, showing both the original and use in editorial.

Moving forward to 1930-46, the tone of Time & Decay reflects the changing times: the depression, the movement of focus from Paris to America during the war years, the popularity of the cinema and a focus on leisure and sportswear in fashion. This more casual tone is brought through the illustration, with looser strokes, more muted colours and more introspective compositions. This section highlights the talent of Bernard Blossac and René Bouché.


René Gruau

Enthusiasm returns in New Rhythms, New Rules 1947-59, introducing Dior‘s ‘New Look‘ in 1947. The illustrations of Réne Gruau perfectly capture the ‘exagerated elegance’ of Dior’s bold new style. His bold use of colour and line, with a predominance of red, white, back and orchre shine through this section of the exhibit. The timelessness of the illustrations is highlighted by a Vogue Paris cover illustration, first published in the 1950s, republished for the Juin/Juillet 1985 edition, that would look equally contemporary today. Another highlight is a single pink glove, showing a movement from full figure to individual detail and objects of the body.


Antonio Lopez

The true star of the show is Antonio (Lopez), the sole focus of Liberty & Licence, taking the viewer through 1960-89. Anotonio’s bold graphics in pencil and watercolour celebrate the dynamic feminism of the 1970s and especially the 1980s. This is power illustration to the max, matching the era’s power dressing with big shoulders, tight waists and attitudes to match. Hitting the mood of each decade, Antonio’s style adapts through the 1960s-80s, with a focus on form and art.


François Berthoud

The exhibit concludes with The Tradition Continues 1990-2010 and Fashion Drawing for the Future. The illustrations chosen in this section react against ‘the cult of the individual’ and big budget commerciality of fashion and advertising. Matts Gustafson and François Berthoud show new paths forward in terms of form and technique. Berthoud’s Allure de Chanel for Rebel, France (enamel on paper) reduces the figure to positive and negative forms.


Mats Gustafson

Overall, illustrations are more moody and suggestive and are often simplified to form, colour and movement. An Aurore de la Morinere for Christian Lacroix published in Süddeutsche Zeitung Magazine loses the form of figure and clothes to a shimmer of colours, becoming etherial and fantasy rather than any depiction of the body. A dark illustration for Alexander McQueen with the figure walking away from the viewer and displayed alone poignently reminds of the loss of this fashion great.

There is currently a resurgence of interest in fashion illustration and Drawing Fashion celebrates this. With any retrospective, it’s difficult to cover everything and there are a few illustrators missing – notably David Downton who we interviewed recently. The exhibition, however, demonstrates illustration’s power to take the viewer beyond the simple display of clothes and connecting what we wear with the mood, ideologies and changing tides of the 20th century.

Get all the information you need, including the line up of talks associated with the exhibition, in our listings section.

Categories ,20th Century, ,Alexander McQueen, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,America, ,Antonio Lopez, ,Bernard Blossac, ,chanel, ,Christian Lacroix, ,Daria Hlazatova, ,David Downton, ,Design Museum, ,Dior, ,Drawing Fashion, ,Erté, ,fashion, ,François Berthoud, ,Galerie Bartsch & Chariau, ,George Lepape, ,illustration, ,Joelle Chariau, ,La Gazette du Bon Ton, ,Mats Gustafson, ,New Look, ,paris, ,René Bouché, ,vogue, ,Vogue Paris

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ahoy there Amelia’s Magazine! What’s your fave Christmas song?

snowdragon-by-lorraine-nam

Illustration by Lorraine Nam

Back with post two on Christmas music. I hope post one was enlightening. Now let’s see what the chaps at Amelia’s Magazine love to listen to at Christmas time. MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE xx

2000 miles by Karina Yarv

Illustration by Karina Jarv

Karina Jarv – Illustrator
Of course there are always a lot of favourite Christmas songs… It’s Christmas, information pills there is a fantastic mood in the air and you want to listen to something very old and familiar to you. The same thing is with me. ONE of my favourites is ‘White Christmas’ by Bing Crosby. But to be honest my current favourite is the ‘2000 miles’ cover by 6 Day Riot. Everything is so perfect there for me: magical voice, amazing sound… Yes, the original song is great, but this sounds a little bit more personal. When I hear this song I want to put the kettle on, take a warm bath and good book with me and wait for someone…very special…’to come back’ to me someday.

Amelia Xmas

Amelia Gregory

Amelia Gregory – Our Magazine Leader
Do they know it’s Christmas? from 1984 – because it reminds me of being young. I love that all the famous pop stars of the era are featured in it, but it was still so craply done – no stylists on hand in those days. Of course it was cheesy even then but I was given a 7″ for my birthday which I still treasure.

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And as I discovered watching the Frisky and Mannish show at the Lyric Theatre, it encompasses all the essential elements of a Christmas tune – obvious references to Christmas, innuendo, pathos, political context, bells and a sing-a-long chorus. An absolute classic.

Faye

Faye West

Faye West – Illustrator
So hard to choose, but it will have to be Mariah Carey‘s All I Want for Christmas (is that what it’s called?!), reminds me of being 14, in New Look shopping for a Christmas Disco outfit in 1998, the year we did a dance to Spice Girls for the Christmas assembly. I chose a gold glittery vest top with a blue velvet mini skirt as had Geri Halliwell in mind. The song makes so many of us excited. And then the fun of dancing to it in summery June in ‘Boombox’ a few years ago!

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Illustration by Lorraine Nam

Lorraine Nam – Illustrator
I Want A Hippopotamus for Christmas is my favourite Christmas song. It’s funny and silly and it has a great background story to it. The little girl ends up actually getting a hippopotamus and donates it to the local zoo. 

Martin from Principal Colour Amelia’s Book Publisher
Amelia has been working with Principal Colour since 2004. They have a close relationship, enabling her to do lots of new, experimental things when printing covers – like the pearlescent cover in the latest book, Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration available now here. Martin says his fave Christmas song is: Without doubt it has to be “merry xmas everybody” by slade, when I was young it was what Christmas was about and then when a bit older in the pubs was the sing along of choice (and apparently I used to look a bit like Noddy Holder – don’t know if that’s a compliment or not to be honest).

Matt Bramford Christmas Grump

Matt Bramford

Matt BramfordAmelia’s Magazine Fashion Editor
Mine is Jona Lewie’s Stop The Cavalry because it’s so silly and I get to do my infamous fawn dance.

slow club by karolina burdon

Illustration by Karolina Burdon

Hannah

Hannah Bullivant

Hannah Bullivant – Writer Contributor – craft extraordinaire
Ok my favourite christmas song is It’s Christmas and You’re Boring Me by Slow Club, because its beautiful…even though i feel the opposite about my mister, I just love it.

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Robert Harris

Robert Harris – Writer Contributor
I love Happy Xmas (War is Over) by John Lennon. It’s got a lovely lilting, folky melody – it’s actually based on an old folk standard called Stewball. It’s a protest song about the Vietnam War, which makes it 100 times more meaningful than anything by Slade, and it’s one of the few credible Christmas songs. Well, until Yoko Ono starts singing…

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Illustration by Mina Bach

Mina Bach – Illustrator
The Elvis Christmas Album is an absolute MUST at Christmas for me!

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Jessica Furseth

Jessica Furseth – Writer Contributor
My favourite Christmas song is probably ‘Silent night’. It reminds me of what Christmas was like when I was a kid, when it was sort of magic. Where I grew up there weren’t really any Christmas-themed pop songs, so I don’t really like those as they don’t hold any significance for me. So yes, I like the old-fashioned songs.

Wham illustration by Avril Kelly

Illustration by Avril Kelly

Avril Kelly – Illustrator
Wham! Last Christmas. It is the ultimate cheesefest of Christmas songs, I hear it every Christmas in the car on the way to visit family and friends. Everyone always sings along loudly and rather terribly, it has to be said. It’s fun and cheesy and just I love it.

Abby Wright

Abby Wright – Illustrator
Well this is a hard question, I love Christmas songs, especially those I can sing or dance to. In particular I love Stop the Cavalry by Jona Lewie, Happy Xmas (War is Over) by John Lennon and Band Aid’s Do They Know it’s Christmas. My favourite ever though would have to be Merry Christmas Everybody by Slade. It makes me so happy, and it’s a song that i’m guaranteed to dance to and get a sore throat singing to! It’s fun, cheerful and just what Christmas should be. I hope one year soon we will have an actual Christmas song for Christmas number one again!

Jingle Bell Rock by Chloe Cook

Illustration by Chloe Cook

Chloe Cook – Illustrator
Jingle Bell Rock by Billy Idol. I’ve chosen this song because I absolutely L-O-V-E Billy Idol, and I also love Christmas, so it’s putting my two favourite things together. Also I just think that it’s quite a funny thing that such a massively known punk rocker has done a cutesy little Christmas song, and I think more people should listen to it!!

Daria Hlazatova – Illustrator
I know what you’ll say about my favourite Christmas song being “Jingle bells rock” by Bobby Helms – “cheeky!” Well, I first heard it as a child in “Home Alone: Lost in NYC” and loved it. Since then it became associated with this city until finally some years later I found myself in NYC at Christmas completely alone. I remember hearing this song when passing Macy’s and being hit by a wave of nostalgia. Cheeky dreams come true at Christmas, I thought! Hope your Christmas is a happy one!

Helen Martin

Me – Helen Matin

Helen Martin – Writer Contributor
Christmas TV by Slow Club is my favourite Christmas song. It makes me happy. Tender, honest, true and full of yearning. Gorgeous.

Categories ,6 Day Riot, ,Abby Wright, ,Amelia Gregory, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Amelia’s Magazine, ,Avril Kelly, ,band aid, ,Bobby Helms, ,books, ,Chloe Cook, ,Daria Hlazatova, ,Editor, ,Elvis, ,fashion, ,Faye West, ,Frisky and Mannish show at the Lyric Theatre, ,George Michael, ,Geri Halliwell, ,Hannah Bullivant, ,Helen Martin, ,Jessica Furseth, ,John Lennon, ,Jona Lewie, ,Karina Jarv, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Lorraine Nam, ,Macy’s, ,Mariah Carey, ,Matt Bramford, ,Mina Bach., ,New Look, ,new york, ,principal colour, ,publishing, ,Robert Harris, ,slade, ,Slow Club, ,Spice Girls, ,Wham!, ,Yoko Ono

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