Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Bunmi Koko


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Vauxhall Fashion Scout plays a huge part in showcasing fresh London talent; the first show this week was that of Nigerian luxury label Bunmi Koko. Promising to present clothes ‘celebrating female empowerment and domination’, buy information pills I was told that the ‘Matriarchy’ S/S collection was heavily inspired by all-male leopard masquerade (Ekpe) from the secret Efik tribe in Nigeria.

The tribal influence was immediate as the show opened with a terrific giant colourful pompom man who came shuffling on with an excellent shaky shaky dance to Kanye West’s Love Lockdown.

The show, information pills although slightly chaotic at the beginning and very embarrassing for one girl who had to be ushered out of her front row seat to make way for a short bearded man, was a visual treat. As we all sat and waited for it to begin, I counted a surprising number of ‘slebs’ in the front row – Calum Best, Mutya Buena who used to be in the Sugababes (didn’t everyone?) and Becca from Hollyoaks all cast their critical eyes over the collection.

Still dazed by the wonders of a bright dancing furby-esque creature, the rest of the show began with four monochrome outfits complete with feather masks and the occasional pineapple looking cane. The oversized pom poms were back, but this time used with (a little bit) more restraint and made from rayon raffia.


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Compared to other shows I attended yesterday, Koko’s was not as obviously ‘spring/summer’ and featured much stronger colours (deep reds, mustard yellows and two tone prints), with heavy black accents defining each model’s outfit. Most of the looks mixed different textures of feathers, wool, small embellishments and tiered rows of layering on the skirts. For S/S 2011 Bunmi Koko offers a very tailored, and sharply silhouetted collection, with nipped in structured jackets, above the knee dresses and tapered trousers.


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Categories ,Bunmi Koko, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,lfw, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Luxury, ,New Talent, ,pom-poms, ,S/S 2011, ,University of East London, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Paul Costelloe

LFW Jena.Theo catwalk show SS11

In the prelude to September’s London Fashion Week, nurse Amelia’s Magazine ran a series of interviews with designers and previews of designers to watch. One of these took the form of a conversation between Amelia and Bora Aksu, viagra a designer whose progression we love to watch and have followed since his graduation from that increasingly famous St Martins MA.

The interview (a must read) discusses Bora Aksu’s involvement with People Tree and the designer’s personal attempts to incorporate ethically sourced material in the main collection.

As aforementioned, viagra approved Bora’s shows are often magical and his Spring Summer 2011 collection was no exception, the designer signature material combinations were present on the dresses alongside the new additions of delicately tapered trousers.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

For S/S 11 Bora Aksu premiered his new collection as part of the always pleasing On|Off schedule (there are multiple schedules at London Fashion Week and after three seasons I am still getting my head around the numerous venues, times, places and dates!). Set in the basement of Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, London Fashion Week“>Aksu produced a series of eerily romantic garments in which all the looks were completed by inky black lines on cream hosiery.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

A whimsical affair, each dress elaborated the models physical features through the application of delicate ruffles. Carefully crafted materials mimicked that of an anatomically deconstructed corset. The adorned dresses drew attention to Bora Aksu’s craft drawing the viewers eyes towards every seam, hem and contrasting material.

The collection celebrated the experience of wearing material, from lace panels to the injection of silver jacquard in a pair of beautifully cut trousers. Compared to S/S 10, S/S 2011 was a pared down collection, but as always the designer’s dress patterns intrigued the viewer’s eye.

The mainly muted collection contained moments of vivid saturation achieved by the addition of a beautiful deep red. As always Bora’s eye for collecting and studying discarded garments made this a very special collection and a lovely week to London Fashion Week.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

Photographs by Sally Mumby-Croft


Illustration by Faye West

Last London Fashion Week, information pills the Maria Grachvogel show was celebtastic, with Erin O’ connor and Yasmin Le Bon sitting front row. There seemed to be a lack of famous faces this time round, but it could be that they were driven away by the incessant ‘chirping crickets’ soundtrack which, as we waited for the show to start, began to grate on the soul. The natural world vibe seemed to be lost on the lady sitting next to me who was wearing what can only be described as an entire hind; despite it being so mild that I hadn’t even worn a jacket.

To begin with it was hard to spot the influence of Nature in the collection; there were far too many nude, caramel and pale silver numbers for my liking; which I should have expected given words like ‘minimalism’ and ‘chic simplicity’ that were bandied around in the press blurb. Not until the appearance of a canary yellow fishtail gown did anything make me sit up and take notice; hair and make-up being equally bland…sorry, I mean ‘minimalist’.


Illustration by Faye West

Kingfisher blue pieces brightened up the collection and the final few numbers bearing ‘wolf,’ ‘moth wing’ and ‘phoenix’ artwork had me almost converted. Organic greens and a fiery orange against deep blue really did evoke a reflection of the environment, unlike the opening pieces of the collection which were all a bit on the beige side.

Illustration by Faye West

I guess if you have the body of a ballerina and the face of a supermodel you might be able to throw on a paper thin, nude dress that clings to you as you walk; and whilst the effect of the chiffon and silk as the models moved was beautiful, I fail to see it being a look many women could pull off. The prints however were truly striking, and would flatter many more skin tones than the pale, caramel palette.

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory

London Fashion Week opened with a collective bemused giggle when the well dressed crowd of a certain age overheard stressed shouting backstage at the Paul Costelloe show. This elder statesman of British fashion is not a designer that I’ve ever really paid attention to before, cure and I’m wondering why that is?

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
lfw paulcostelloe lemclennan
Paul Costelloe by LE Mclennan.

His was a delightful show, order featuring darling flared skater and layered tulip shape skirts bedecked in dainty digital prints and accessorised with some fabulous bottom bows and some bright pink lipstick. It was all shown with big back combed hair and a jaunty bounce. And the best thing? It was all eminently wearable.

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW-Paul-Costelloe-Helena-Maratheftis
Paul Costelloe by Helena Maratheftis.

I wasn’t so enamoured of his menswear. I am sure it was beautifully cut but some was pretty conservative, ed though the shorts were a cute touch and I liked the floral print shirts and the splashes of colour.

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW Paul Costelloe Sine Skau
LFW Paul Costelloe Sine Skau
LFW Paul Costelloe Sine Skau
Paul Costelloe by Sine Skau.

The show ended with woops from the audience as his paraded down the catwalk. I’ll just say that again: SIX sons. SIX. Did you get that. He has SIX sons. We were all marvelling at this fact after the show, when it was pointed out that he is Irish. Still, as someone said, “doesn’t he have a TV?”

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Two of his sons take to the catwalk.

Definitely a designer to check out if you’ve never thought of doing so before.

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,BFC Tent, ,Helena Maratheftis, ,LE Mclennan, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Paul Costelloe, ,Sine Skau, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Basso & Brooke

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week - by Joana Faria

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Joana Faria

There is no queuing for me at the Basso & Brooke show – I’m late, store having been seduced by ice-cream and pretty dresses at the Orla Kiely presentation and everyone has already been seated. So it’s fine luck that I found an unoccupied seat in the front row. As is usual at London Fashion Week, salve a celeb or two will make an entrance just before the show is about to commence and a riot of photographers will swoon in and blind bystanders with their imperious flashes.

Ana Araujo at Basso & Brooke  SS 12 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ana Araujo

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Being naturally curious I want to know who it is as well. Later on I’ll discover the celebrity to be Ana Araujo, ed but meanwhile I snap a photo of her, tell she looks gorgeous when she smiles and rush back to my seat to await the start of the show.

Basso & Brooke  by Gilly Rochester LFW SS 2012

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 Illustrated by Gilly Rochester

An energetic beat silences the audience and the fantastic elliptical light display comes alive and dances to the rhythm building a dynamic ambience and giving the illusion of stars sparkling in the night sky. I’m hoping there aren’t any epileptics in the audience when the lights stand still and serene, welcoming an explosion of colour and print onto the stark white stage.

LFW SS12 Basso and Brooke by Kristina Vasiljeva

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Kristina Vasiljeva

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week - by Joana Faria

Basso & Brook S/S 2012 illustrated by Joana Faria

Colour and print have become synonymous with the Basso & Brooke brand and both designers are very much aware of this. So wanting to break away from the prison that had become symmetry and precision, Bruno Basso and Chris Brooke journeyed to bring digital print alive again, by disrupting the status quo of digital print. What transpired was a ‘Tropical Constructivism’.

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Vibrant tropical images married with angular lines and sharp structures cloak the fluid cloth of each softly, but perfectly structured garment; short dresses, shirt dresses, maxi dresses and what appears to be a ‘salwar kameez-esque’ dress and skinny trouser outfit. One of my favourites is a shorts and jacket ensemble accessorised with cool retro shades. The hair is styled or rather, anti-styled in a straggly ‘I have better things to do’ pony tail, a distinct contrast to the conspicuous collection. I also love the accessorising (by Borba) of a few key outfits with what appears to be a cluster of karabiners and key-ring clips. Brilliant.

Basso & Brooke by Gilly Rochester LFW SS 2012

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Gilly Rochester

If putting clashing colours and prints together to form gorgeous wearable clothes wasn’t hard enough, Basso & Brooke challenged themselves with the idea of evolving patterns, so that each new piece in the collection bore the seed of the next. Impressive much? I think so.

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

All photography by Akeela Bhattay

As the show comes to an end and the design duo take to the catwalk, there is reverberating applause. Thoroughly deserved, I think.

You can watch the show here.

Categories ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Ana Araujo, ,Basso & Brooke, ,Borba, ,british fashion council, ,Bruno Basso, ,catwalk show, ,Chris Brooke, ,designer, ,Digital Print, ,fashion, ,GHD, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Goodley PR, ,Images, ,Joana Faria, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mac, ,Multi-print, ,Multicolour, ,Photographs, ,Pioneers, ,Report, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,soundtrack, ,spring, ,SS 12, ,summer, ,The Old Sorting Office, ,Tropical Constructivism

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Inbar Spector

Inbar Spector SS12 by Gilly Rochester
Inbar Spector S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester.

I was entirely new to Inbar Spector this London Fashion Week, advice having heard of the Israeli born designer from devotee Gabby Young just a day before the show. Gabby frequently wears Inbar Spector on stage and was of course in attendance on the front row.

Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 by Jane Young
Inbar Spector S/S 2012 by Jane Young.

The fabulously named Inbar Spector has become well known for complex constructions and rich fabrics, and this seasons collection was no different. It featured a strong gothic 80s feel in favoured materials such as zips, chains, lace and faux leather (in line with her strict vegetarian beliefs). For her S/S 2012 collection Inbar Spector was inspired by a great fire which destroyed the majority of her home town in Israel: visions of violence, fire and terrifying medical situations were all fed into the mix. She writes on the press release about the anticipation and excitement that is tinged with fear when Israelis go to any big public event or party in Israel. Hence a certain spikiness in the styling.

Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

The show opened with a lacy garment over which was worn a loose patchwork metallic embossed jacket. Models were styled with scary haystack hair, a line of grips stacking up behind their ears. It was certainly a break with current hair styling trends.

Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW Inbar Spector S/S 2012 by Celine Choo
Inbar Spector S/S 2012 by Celine Choo.

Severe catwalk lighting meant that models gained a beautiful backlit halo as they neared the photographers’ pit, with every contour highlighted. Luckily the models also stopped right in front of me to allow the audience a closer look at the garments. An oversized silvery coat was my favourite of the outerwear but the faux leather worked just as well in a short golden dress. Delicate materials wrapped around the body in tangled layers, melding with the metallics.

Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Then out strode a model wearing the most breath-taking bubble dress made out of gossamer light material as if to resemble a wonky christmas fold out paper decoration. Another shorter tutu style dress in palest peach was paired with gold leather and yet another version entirely encased the body in intricate folds. I have no idea how Inbar Spector achieved these looks but they were quite staggering. The final two dresses were even more spectacular – the first in heaped tiers of frothy cream that wrapped around the model’s neck. The second showstopper would have been fit to dress a fairy atop the christmas tree – a vast concertina-ed dress made entirely in laser cut gold fabric. Astonishing and very unique.

Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Inbar Spector S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Inbar Spector SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory gabby young
The beautiful Gabby Young.

Categories ,80s, ,Celine Choo, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faux Leather, ,gabby young, ,Gilly Rochester, ,gothic, ,Inbar Spector, ,Israel, ,Jane Young, ,lace, ,leather, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Kills Me, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Task PR, ,vegetarian, ,Violence

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Bunmi Koko


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Vauxhall Fashion Scout plays a huge part in showcasing fresh London talent; the first show this week was that of Nigerian luxury label Bunmi Koko. Promising to present clothes ‘celebrating female empowerment and domination’, I was told that the ‘Matriarchy’ S/S collection was heavily inspired by all-male leopard masquerade (Ekpe) from the secret Efik tribe in Nigeria.

The tribal influence was immediate as the show opened with a terrific giant colourful pompom man who came shuffling on with an excellent shaky shaky dance to Kanye West’s Love Lockdown.

The show, although slightly chaotic at the beginning and very embarrassing for one girl who had to be ushered out of her front row seat to make way for a short bearded man, was a visual treat. As we all sat and waited for it to begin, I counted a surprising number of ‘slebs’ in the front row – Calum Best, Mutya Buena who used to be in the Sugababes (didn’t everyone?) and Becca from Hollyoaks all cast their critical eyes over the collection.

Still dazed by the wonders of a bright dancing furby-esque creature, the rest of the show began with four monochrome outfits complete with feather masks and the occasional pineapple looking cane. The oversized pom poms were back, but this time used with (a little bit) more restraint and made from rayon raffia.


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Compared to other shows I attended yesterday, Koko’s was not as obviously ‘spring/summer’ and featured much stronger colours (deep reds, mustard yellows and two tone prints), with heavy black accents defining each model’s outfit. Most of the looks mixed different textures of feathers, wool, small embellishments and tiered rows of layering on the skirts. For S/S 2011 Bunmi Koko offers a very tailored, and sharply silhouetted collection, with nipped in structured jackets, above the knee dresses and tapered trousers.


Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Categories ,Bunmi Koko, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,lfw, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Luxury, ,New Talent, ,pom-poms, ,S/S 2011, ,University of East London, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Romeo Pires

LFW Romeo Pires by Maria del Carmen Smith
Romeo Pires by Maria del Carmen Smith.

Romeo Pires are a new design duo for me. Sergio Pires hails from Brazil and Nicholas Humphrey comes from the UK: they met studying textile design at Guildhall University.

LFW Romeo Pires by Maria del Carmen Smith

The models took to the catwalk in pairs with wildly crimped hair and ghostly white make up that was far from elegant, online but I quickly warmed to this clever collection, advice which saw oversized waists hooked up with massive low slung braces. Everything was lovingly folded or pleated and this translated well into menswear, ed my favourite piece being a dashing short cape. Their textile background was obvious in bleached prints of rusty nails and skulls that broke up the otherwise monochrome palette with added butterscotch and cream.

romeo_pires_lfw2010_bex_glover
romeo_pires_lfw2010_bex_glover
romeo_pires_lfw2010_bex_glover
Romeo Pires by Bex Glover.

At the end of the show this endearing pair made a hasty entrance together, looking dead cute in the male version of their vision. Definitely a new label to watch.

Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Bex Glover, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Guildhall University, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria del Carmen Smith, ,textiles

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Basso & Brooke

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week - by Joana Faria

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Joana Faria

There is no queuing for me at the Basso & Brooke show – I’m late, store having been seduced by ice-cream and pretty dresses at the Orla Kiely presentation and everyone has already been seated. So it’s fine luck that I found an unoccupied seat in the front row. As is usual at London Fashion Week, salve a celeb or two will make an entrance just before the show is about to commence and a riot of photographers will swoon in and blind bystanders with their imperious flashes.

Ana Araujo at Basso & Brooke  SS 12 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ana Araujo

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Being naturally curious I want to know who it is as well. Later on I’ll discover the celebrity to be Ana Araujo, ed but meanwhile I snap a photo of her, tell she looks gorgeous when she smiles and rush back to my seat to await the start of the show.

Basso & Brooke  by Gilly Rochester LFW SS 2012

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 Illustrated by Gilly Rochester

An energetic beat silences the audience and the fantastic elliptical light display comes alive and dances to the rhythm building a dynamic ambience and giving the illusion of stars sparkling in the night sky. I’m hoping there aren’t any epileptics in the audience when the lights stand still and serene, welcoming an explosion of colour and print onto the stark white stage.

LFW SS12 Basso and Brooke by Kristina Vasiljeva

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Kristina Vasiljeva

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week - by Joana Faria

Basso & Brook S/S 2012 illustrated by Joana Faria

Colour and print have become synonymous with the Basso & Brooke brand and both designers are very much aware of this. So wanting to break away from the prison that had become symmetry and precision, Bruno Basso and Chris Brooke journeyed to bring digital print alive again, by disrupting the status quo of digital print. What transpired was a ‘Tropical Constructivism’.

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Vibrant tropical images married with angular lines and sharp structures cloak the fluid cloth of each softly, but perfectly structured garment; short dresses, shirt dresses, maxi dresses and what appears to be a ‘salwar kameez-esque’ dress and skinny trouser outfit. One of my favourites is a shorts and jacket ensemble accessorised with cool retro shades. The hair is styled or rather, anti-styled in a straggly ‘I have better things to do’ pony tail, a distinct contrast to the conspicuous collection. I also love the accessorising (by Borba) of a few key outfits with what appears to be a cluster of karabiners and key-ring clips. Brilliant.

Basso & Brooke by Gilly Rochester LFW SS 2012

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Gilly Rochester

If putting clashing colours and prints together to form gorgeous wearable clothes wasn’t hard enough, Basso & Brooke challenged themselves with the idea of evolving patterns, so that each new piece in the collection bore the seed of the next. Impressive much? I think so.

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

All photography by Akeela Bhattay

As the show comes to an end and the design duo take to the catwalk, there is reverberating applause. Thoroughly deserved, I think.

You can watch the show here.

Categories ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Ana Araujo, ,Basso & Brooke, ,Borba, ,british fashion council, ,Bruno Basso, ,catwalk show, ,Chris Brooke, ,designer, ,Digital Print, ,fashion, ,GHD, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Goodley PR, ,Images, ,Joana Faria, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mac, ,Multi-print, ,Multicolour, ,Photographs, ,Pioneers, ,Report, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,soundtrack, ,spring, ,SS 12, ,summer, ,The Old Sorting Office, ,Tropical Constructivism

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jacob Kimmie

Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska
Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska.

I missed the Jacob Kimmie show last season but the fabulous cream and black elegance of his sophisticated collection for A/W 2010 is still etched into my mind.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW SS12 Jacob Kimmie by Kristina Vasiljeva
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Jacob Kimmie‘s new collection was called Rhapsody and featured a huge number of beautifully constructed garments in signature monochrome, seek but this time with variation in the form of a grey dove print that appeared on white and black grounds to equal effect. Flocks of doves spread across skirts or down tiered chiffon dresses. Taking a brave step away from monochrome Jacob Kimmie also showcased the dove print in coy red.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob-Kimmie-(SS-2012)-by-Barb-Royal
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Ah, clinic chiffon. There has been an awful lot of exposed nipple action this LFW and Jacob Kimmie‘s show was no exception. High necked Victorian school marm blouses with slouchy puff sleeves were given the sheer treatment – if only the women likely to afford these garments had such perky boobs. On other blouses bib like ruffles covered the bosom or a dapper rose appeared at the neck. Slim mesh panels up the sides and down the sleeves of long dresses were particularly clever. The contrast of sexiness and primness was emphasised with simple allusions to religion and virginity – a cross around the neck or a barely there netted cape.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

The show closed with an exposed bride, who sashayed down the catwalk under a diaphanous veil with an empty birdcage swinging at her side. The black models from the show posed in a row at the end of the catwalk as Jacob gave his final bow – as ever an incongruous figure, rotund and cheery in baseball cap, casual t-shirt and shorts – the antithesis of his designs.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

Jacob Kimmie is fast building himself a strong brand that is an alluring combination of prim and sexy. Rhapsody S/S 2012 was a beautiful and wearable collection that should appeal to buyers in spades.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Birdcage, ,Bride, ,Chiffon, ,doves, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grey, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Mesh, ,monochrome, ,Nipples, ,Panels, ,print, ,Religious, ,Rhapsody, ,Ruffles, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sheer, ,Veil, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu

Illustration by Eugenia Tsmiklis

After pegging it down the strand, ed I arrived at the BFC tent with less than 30 seconds to spare. My desperate dan demeanour must have won me brownie points somewhere as I was ushered into the catwalk seating area so fast my feet barely touched the floor. Expecting the Issa show to begin, imagine my suprise when Basso and Brooke creations started to walk their way down the catwalk…there must have been some awful mistake?…yes, indeed there was Mr Matt Bramford (who must be reading his timetable upside down last night).

A 9am Sunday morning treat: great turnout (including model Amber Rose – front row), amazing prints and a seamless show. To be able to mix so many colours, prints, patterns and styles into pieces of clothing is a talent few can boast. I have never trained as a fashion designer but I imagine that there comes a time early in their lives, perhaps as a kid choosing between a pencil and a box of crayolas, when their speciality is set for life. In my view, all designers have not so much a signature look as a part of the DNA clothing they excel at: silhouette, colour, print, cut. Some designers can change the way we see the body – I’m thinking of Miuccia Prada –and some fill in the outlines of fashionable shapes with their own individual colour, pattern and texture.

Illustration by Eugenia Tsmiklis

Prints were the order of the day with a slight All Saints (edgy brand not 90s girlband) feel to some of the ones with italic scripting and antique maps running across. After reading the press release, it turns out that the writing is actually handwritten notes by Da Vinci, Tolstoy, Balzac and others in a nod to the non digital past. Digital prints are then sliced into the notes and maps, creating more dramatic, eclectic mixes. Other prints included trompe l’oeil images of ruched fabrics, mainly used in larger panels on the back of dresses but occasionally inserted onto the front. I am personally a huge fan of print design (I was a colour-change felttip pen sort of kid), which I think often gets ignored in favour of more flashy, and by definition, flesh-revealing options (anyone designing an elaborately printed bikini has rather missed the point). There’s something depressing about an off-the-shelf pattern you end up seeing on clothes everywhere, from high street shops to market stalls. I want someone to have sat down and designed the images that appear on the surface of clothes with as much care and dedication as they did every other aspect.

Basso and Brooke’s S/S11 show didn’t pioneer any particular dress shape, although all their clothes look wearable: lots of skater-skirted party dresses, a collared blouse and skirt and filmy jumpsuitst. The skirts had great shape and movement to them, especially the shorter kicky ones; the dresses made use of clashing prints on the front and back and thought had also been put into matching shoes to each look. However, what they do to a tee is the print; everyone knows that when you go to their show you’ll get lovingly rendered prints galore. This also means subtle use of colour, and when the models took their turn all together, it added up to a handwritten, map inspired rainbow.

Shoes at Basso & Brooke

Some of the choices surprised me at first: leopard print? Hermes-scarf style illustrated floral squares? But because they were digitally chopped up with gold foil sections that seemed to creep over the garish parts, or set against a background of pearly grey silk, I think it worked. There is a trend now for mixing up complicated prints, which when it works, looks incredible. One good thing about animal print is that you can’t really beat nature for creating a pleasing whole and by sticking to the silvery sheen of water, brown and rusty orange of animals spots and mineral metallics, there’s a good chance an outfit will hang together, just like Basso and Brooke’s show.

Illustration by Eugenia Tsmiklis

After pegging it down the strand, this I arrived at the BFC tent with less than 30 seconds to spare. My desperate dan demeanour must have won me brownie points somewhere as I was ushered into the catwalk seating area so fast my feet barely touched the floor. Expecting the Issa show to begin, see imagine my suprise when Basso and Brooke creations started to walk their way down the catwalk…there must have been some awful mistake?…yes, indeed there was Mr Matt Bramford (who must be reading his timetable upside down last night).

A 9am Sunday morning treat: great turnout (including model Amber Rose – front row), amazing prints and a seamless show. To be able to mix so many colours, prints, patterns and styles into pieces of clothing is a talent few can boast. I have never trained as a fashion designer but I imagine that there comes a time early in their lives, perhaps as a kid choosing between a pencil and a box of crayolas, when their speciality is set for life. In my view, all designers have not so much a signature look as a part of the DNA clothing they excel at: silhouette, colour, print, cut. Some designers can change the way we see the body – I’m thinking of Miuccia Prada –and some fill in the outlines of fashionable shapes with their own individual colour, pattern and texture.

Illustration by Eugenia Tsmiklis

Prints were the order of the day with a slight All Saints (edgy brand not 90s girlband) feel to some of the ones with italic scripting and antique maps running across. After reading the press release, it turns out that the writing is actually handwritten notes by Da Vinci, Tolstoy, Balzac and others in a nod to the non digital past. Digital prints are then sliced into the notes and maps, creating more dramatic, eclectic mixes. Other prints included trompe l’oeil images of ruched fabrics, mainly used in larger panels on the back of dresses but occasionally inserted onto the front. I am personally a huge fan of print design (I was a colour-change felttip pen sort of kid), which I think often gets ignored in favour of more flashy, and by definition, flesh-revealing options (anyone designing an elaborately printed bikini has rather missed the point). There’s something depressing about an off-the-shelf pattern you end up seeing on clothes everywhere, from high street shops to market stalls. I want someone to have sat down and designed the images that appear on the surface of clothes with as much care and dedication as they did every other aspect.

Illustrated by June Chanpoomidole

Basso and Brooke’s S/S11 show didn’t pioneer any particular dress shape, although all their clothes look wearable: lots of skater-skirted party dresses, a collared blouse and skirt and filmy jumpsuitst. The skirts had great shape and movement to them, especially the shorter kicky ones; the dresses made use of clashing prints on the front and back and thought had also been put into matching shoes to each look. However, what they do to a tee is the print; everyone knows that when you go to their show you’ll get lovingly rendered prints galore. This also means subtle use of colour, and when the models took their turn all together, it added up to a handwritten, map inspired rainbow.

Photograph by Florence Massey

Some of the choices surprised me at first: leopard print? Hermes-scarf style illustrated floral squares? But because they were digitally chopped up with gold foil sections that seemed to creep over the garish parts, or set against a background of pearly grey silk, I think it worked. There is a trend now for mixing up complicated prints, which when it works, looks incredible. One good thing about animal print is that you can’t really beat nature for creating a pleasing whole and by sticking to the silvery sheen of water, brown and rusty orange of animals spots and mineral metallics, there’s a good chance an outfit will hang together, just like Basso and Brooke’s show.

Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

Illustration by Eugenia Tsmiklis

After pegging it down the strand, buy information pills I arrived at the BFC tent with less than 30 seconds to spare. My desperate dan demeanour must have won me brownie points somewhere as I was ushered into the catwalk seating area so fast my feet barely touched the floor. Expecting the Issa show to begin, viagra 40mg imagine my suprise when Basso and Brooke creations started to walk their way down the catwalk…there must have been some awful mistake?…yes, indeed there was Mr Matt Bramford (who must be reading his timetable upside down last night).

A 9am Sunday morning treat: great turnout (including model Amber Rose – front row), amazing prints and a seamless show. To be able to mix so many colours, prints, patterns and styles into pieces of clothing is a talent few can boast. I have never trained as a fashion designer but I imagine that there comes a time early in their lives, perhaps as a kid choosing between a pencil and a box of crayolas, when their speciality is set for life. In my view, all designers have not so much a signature look as a part of the DNA clothing they excel at: silhouette, colour, print, cut. Some designers can change the way we see the body – I’m thinking of Miuccia Prada –and some fill in the outlines of fashionable shapes with their own individual colour, pattern and texture.

Illustration by Eugenia Tsmiklis

Prints were the order of the day with a slight All Saints (edgy brand not 90s girlband) feel to some of the ones with italic scripting and antique maps running across. After reading the press release, it turns out that the writing is actually handwritten notes by Da Vinci, Tolstoy, Balzac and others in a nod to the non digital past. Digital prints are then sliced into the notes and maps, creating more dramatic, eclectic mixes. Other prints included trompe l’oeil images of ruched fabrics, mainly used in larger panels on the back of dresses but occasionally inserted onto the front. I am personally a huge fan of print design (I was a colour-change felttip pen sort of kid), which I think often gets ignored in favour of more flashy, and by definition, flesh-revealing options (anyone designing an elaborately printed bikini has rather missed the point). There’s something depressing about an off-the-shelf pattern you end up seeing on clothes everywhere, from high street shops to market stalls. I want someone to have sat down and designed the images that appear on the surface of clothes with as much care and dedication as they did every other aspect.

Illustrated by June Chanpoomidole

Basso and Brooke’s S/S11 show didn’t pioneer any particular dress shape, although all their clothes look wearable: lots of skater-skirted party dresses, a collared blouse and skirt and filmy jumpsuitst. The skirts had great shape and movement to them, especially the shorter kicky ones; the dresses made use of clashing prints on the front and back and thought had also been put into matching shoes to each look. However, what they do to a tee is the print; everyone knows that when you go to their show you’ll get lovingly rendered prints galore. This also means subtle use of colour, and when the models took their turn all together, it added up to a handwritten, map inspired rainbow.

Photograph by Florence Massey

Some of the choices surprised me at first: leopard print? Hermes-scarf style illustrated floral squares? But because they were digitally chopped up with gold foil sections that seemed to creep over the garish parts, or set against a background of pearly grey silk, I think it worked. There is a trend now for mixing up complicated prints, which when it works, looks incredible. One good thing about animal print is that you can’t really beat nature for creating a pleasing whole and by sticking to the silvery sheen of water, brown and rusty orange of animals spots and mineral metallics, there’s a good chance an outfit will hang together, just like Basso and Brooke’s show.

Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

Illustration by Eugenia Tsmiklis

After pegging it down the strand, sickness I arrived at the BFC tent with less than 30 seconds to spare. My desperate dan demeanour must have won me brownie points somewhere as I was ushered into the catwalk seating area so fast my feet barely touched the floor. Expecting the Issa show to begin, imagine my suprise when Basso and Brooke creations started to walk their way down the catwalk…there must have been some awful mistake?…yes, indeed there was Mr Matt Bramford (who must be reading his timetable upside down last night).

A 9am Sunday morning treat: great turnout (including model Amber Rose – front row), amazing prints and a seamless show. To be able to mix so many colours, prints, patterns and styles into pieces of clothing is a talent few can boast. I have never trained as a fashion designer but I imagine that there comes a time early in their lives, perhaps as a kid choosing between a pencil and a box of crayolas, when their speciality is set for life. In my view, all designers have not so much a signature look as a part of the DNA clothing they excel at: silhouette, colour, print, cut. Some designers can change the way we see the body – I’m thinking of Miuccia Prada –and some fill in the outlines of fashionable shapes with their own individual colour, pattern and texture.

Illustration by Eugenia Tsmiklis

Prints were the order of the day with a slight All Saints (edgy brand not 90s girlband) feel to some of the ones with italic scripting and antique maps running across. After reading the press release, it turns out that the writing is actually handwritten notes by Da Vinci, Tolstoy, Balzac and others in a nod to the non digital past. Digital prints are then sliced into the notes and maps, creating more dramatic, eclectic mixes. Other prints included trompe l’oeil images of ruched fabrics, mainly used in larger panels on the back of dresses but occasionally inserted onto the front. I am personally a huge fan of print design (I was a colour-change felttip pen sort of kid), which I think often gets ignored in favour of more flashy, and by definition, flesh-revealing options (anyone designing an elaborately printed bikini has rather missed the point). There’s something depressing about an off-the-shelf pattern you end up seeing on clothes everywhere, from high street shops to market stalls. I want someone to have sat down and designed the images that appear on the surface of clothes with as much care and dedication as they did every other aspect.

Illustrated by June Chanpoomidole

Basso and Brooke’s S/S11 show didn’t pioneer any particular dress shape, although all their clothes look wearable: lots of skater-skirted party dresses, a collared blouse and skirt and filmy jumpsuitst. The skirts had great shape and movement to them, especially the shorter kicky ones; the dresses made use of clashing prints on the front and back and thought had also been put into matching shoes to each look. However, what they do to a tee is the print; everyone knows that when you go to their show you’ll get lovingly rendered prints galore. This also means subtle use of colour, and when the models took their turn all together, it added up to a handwritten, map inspired rainbow.

Photograph by Florence Massey

Some of the choices surprised me at first: leopard print? Hermes-scarf style illustrated floral squares? But because they were digitally chopped up with gold foil sections that seemed to creep over the garish parts, or set against a background of pearly grey silk, I think it worked. There is a trend now for mixing up complicated prints, which when it works, looks incredible. One good thing about animal print is that you can’t really beat nature for creating a pleasing whole and by sticking to the silvery sheen of water, brown and rusty orange of animals spots and mineral metallics, there’s a good chance an outfit will hang together, just like Basso and Brooke’s show.

Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

Illustration by Eugenia Tsmiklis

After pegging it down the strand, sale I arrived at the BFC tent with less than 30 seconds to spare. My desperate dan demeanour must have won me brownie points somewhere as I was ushered into the catwalk seating area so fast my feet barely touched the floor. Expecting the Issa show to begin, store imagine my suprise when Basso and Brooke creations started to walk their way down the catwalk…there must have been some awful mistake?…yes, viagra sale indeed there was Mr Matt Bramford (who must be reading his timetable upside down last night).

A 9am Sunday morning treat: great turnout (including model Amber Rose – front row), amazing prints and a seamless show. To be able to mix so many colours, prints, patterns and styles into pieces of clothing is a talent few can boast. I have never trained as a fashion designer but I imagine that there comes a time early in their lives, perhaps as a kid choosing between a pencil and a box of crayolas, when their speciality is set for life. In my view, all designers have not so much a signature look as a part of the DNA clothing they excel at: silhouette, colour, print, cut. Some designers can change the way we see the body – I’m thinking of Miuccia Prada –and some fill in the outlines of fashionable shapes with their own individual colour, pattern and texture.

Illustration by Eugenia Tsmiklis

Prints were the order of the day with a slight All Saints (edgy brand not 90s girlband) feel to some of the ones with italic scripting and antique maps running across. After reading the press release, it turns out that the writing is actually handwritten notes by Da Vinci, Tolstoy, Balzac and others in a nod to the non digital past. Digital prints are then sliced into the notes and maps, creating more dramatic, eclectic mixes.

Other prints included trompe l’oeil images of ruched fabrics, mainly used in larger panels on the back of dresses but occasionally inserted onto the front. I am personally a huge fan of print design (I was a colour-change felttip pen sort of kid), which I think often gets ignored in favour of more flashy, and by definition, flesh-revealing options (anyone designing an elaborately printed bikini has rather missed the point). There’s something depressing about an off-the-shelf pattern you end up seeing on clothes everywhere, from high street shops to market stalls. I want someone to have sat down and designed the images that appear on the surface of clothes with as much care and dedication as they did every other aspect.

Illustrated by June Chanpoomidole

Basso and Brooke’s S/S11 show didn’t pioneer any particular dress shape, although all their clothes look wearable: lots of skater-skirted party dresses, a collared blouse and skirt and filmy jumpsuitst. The skirts had great shape and movement to them, especially the shorter kicky ones; the dresses made use of clashing prints on the front and back and thought had also been put into matching shoes to each look. However, what they do to a tee is the print; everyone knows that when you go to their show you’ll get lovingly rendered prints galore. This also means subtle use of colour, and when the models took their turn all together, it added up to a handwritten, map inspired rainbow.

Photograph by Florence Massey

Some of the choices surprised me at first: leopard print? Hermes-scarf style illustrated floral squares? But because they were digitally chopped up with gold foil sections that seemed to creep over the garish parts, or set against a background of pearly grey silk, I think it worked. There is a trend now for mixing up complicated prints, which when it works, looks incredible. One good thing about animal print is that you can’t really beat nature for creating a pleasing whole and by sticking to the silvery sheen of water, brown and rusty orange of animals spots and mineral metallics, there’s a good chance an outfit will hang together, just like Basso and Brooke’s show.

Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

LFW-CharlieleMindu-Andrea-Peterson
Charlie Le Mindu by Andrea Peterson.

There’s precious little rest to be had over Fashion Week as anyone who’s involved will know. And so it was that I found myself hurriedly uploading a blog this morning before the Charlie Le Mindu show – having barely slept – when I saw a tweet from Matt saying that the queue was already huge. So it goes: it doesn’t matter what shitty time slot you have in the schedule, prescription if you’re a big enough draw then they’ll be rolling out of their beds, online dressed to the nines for the cameras.

LFW Charlie Le Mindu by Jessica Singh
LFW Charlie Le Mindu by Jessica Singh
LFW Charlie Le Mindu by Jessica Singh
Charlie Le Mindu by Jessica Singh.

So I chucked my slap on and rode like the wind, getting into Bloomsbury Square in just fifteen minutes albeit a bit sweatily, where I crashed past the poseurs. Take that, you fashion victims. See, I’m not even dressed wackily. Well, only in so far as I always dress in a *slightly* colourful and mismatched combination of high street and vintage 80s finds.

Nani Puspasari_charlie le mindu
Charlie Le Mindu by Nani Puspasari.

I took my seat next to a five year old and two year old (with their parents OBVIOUSLY) – just some of many kids at this and other shows today – I think Sunday tends to bring the families out. I was a little concerned though, I have to say, when the pounding music started up and mum needed to cover the poor wee one’s ears. Tut tut. Your hearing never recovers from even the most minor damage and all that.

Charlie Le Mindu by Nani Puspasari
Charlie Le Mindu by Nani Puspasari.

Okay, you probably know that we like Charlie Le Mindu. He’s a lot of fun. Of course it’s never been about the clothes as such, though the blurb on his hand out did make me laugh. “Get your passports ready as Charlie jets you off in style with a perfect combination of sexy wigs and super hot, super wearable clothes and accessories.” Hang on, let’s just go through that once again. Super wearable? Am I thinking of the same designer? The one that covers his models head to toe in human hair as if it was some kind of exotic fur? And now that’s really got me thinking. Where on earth does one source all this hair from anyway? I’d love to do a little investigation and find out, for instance, how many nationalities made up the black pantaloon number with red leopard spots. And do you think they were shorn humanely?

Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Really though, what’s necessary with Le Mindu is just to set all rational thought aside, sit back and enjoy the show. A model bearing the headlamps of fast cars in her metallic gilded claws? Check. A pink poodle head headdress. Check. Lady Gaga-esque neon yellow wigs. Check.

Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Hang on, are the wigs on the heads made of human hair, or is it only for the dresses? That’s got me really confused.

Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Bubblegum pink floor length bubble hair skirts? Check. Flamingo accessories? Bare boobs and utterly smooth lady bottoms. Now there’s something to theorise over. No hair where there should be some, and mounds of someone else’s hair everywhere else. I think you’re getting the idea… bizarre, enjoyable, but also vaguely unsettling.

Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

In retrospect a quick glance through my photos reveals that there were a few wearable swimsuits hidden amongst the eye popping spectacle. But they weren’t what I will remember this show for.

Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Of course, all of this was a joy to photograph and illustrate. So let’s just enjoy, eh? Til next time Charlie

Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie le Mindu SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Andrea Peterson, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Jessica Singh, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Nani Puspasari, ,Wigs

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Romina Karamanea

Illustration by Rob Wallace

JW Anderson’s Autumn Winter 2010 collection was a celebration of the understated. Opening the rather quiet menswear day at the BFC on September 23rd, buy information pills the designer’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection unleashed models dressed as Liberty sponsored waif and strays.

All Photography by Matt Bramford

The collection was luxe hippie, medicine a perennially popular look that rarely translate into the everyday, unless you happen to be a rock star from years’ past. Nevertheless, it is wonderfully pretty, especially when the boys came highly reminiscent of Jimi Hendrix’s flowery rock attire crossed with the early portraiture of Walker Evans.

Following his video presentation earlier during the week. JW Anderson choose to unleash his recent expansion into faery-esque womenswear onto the menswear catwalk, drawing a few raised eyebrows from a front row settling in for a day of uninterrupted menswear.


Inspired by the photography of William Gedney the collection captured a sense of youthful naive freedom last seen in the work of Sally Mann at The Photographers Gallery.

Illustration by Rob Wallace

A nod to American Youth subcultures, (everything is a nod these day, a rehash, a reminiscence) the clothes arrived as bleached out dreamy tie dyes combined with floral print trousers for the boys and long sheer skirts fitted underneath fisherman knits for the girls.

The collection, a homage to youthful runaways on the Great American Road trip was heavy in the literary romanticism in which JW Anderson excels.

For the finale, the models (beautifully styled by Robbie Spencer) sauntered to the youthful dissatisfaction of Jarvis Cocker’s Pulp, underneath the eery green light provided by lasers more commonly seen at Fabric.

Illustration by Rob Wallace

JW Anderson’s Autumn Winter 2010 collection was a celebration of the understated. Opening the rather quiet menswear day at the BFC on September 23rd, website like this the designer’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection unleashed models dressed as Liberty sponsored waif and strays.

All Photography by Matt Bramford

The collection was luxe hippie, look a perennially popular look that rarely translate into the everyday, cialis 40mg unless you happen to be a rock star from years’ past. Nevertheless, it is wonderfully pretty, especially when the boys came highly reminiscent of Jimi Hendrix’s flowery rock attire crossed with the early portraiture of Walker Evans.

Following his video presentation earlier during the week. JW Anderson choose to unleash his recent expansion into faery-esque womenswear onto the menswear catwalk, drawing a few raised eyebrows from a front row settling in for a day of uninterrupted menswear.


Inspired by the photography of William Gedney the collection captured a sense of youthful naive freedom last seen in the work of Sally Mann at The Photographers Gallery.

Illustration by Rob Wallace

A nod to American Youth subcultures, (everything is a nod these day, a rehash, a reminiscence) the clothes arrived as bleached out dreamy tie dyes combined with floral print trousers for the boys and long sheer skirts fitted underneath fisherman knits for the girls.

The collection, a homage to youthful runaways on the Great American Road trip was heavy in the literary romanticism in which JW Anderson excels.

For the finale, the models (beautifully styled by Robbie Spencer) sauntered to the youthful dissatisfaction of Jarvis Cocker’s Pulp, underneath the eery green light provided by lasers more commonly seen at Fabric.

Illustration by Rob Wallace

JW Anderson’s Autumn Winter 2010 collection was a celebration of the understated. Opening the rather quiet menswear day at the BFC on September 23rd, pharmacy the designer’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection unleashed models dressed as Liberty sponsored waif and strays.

All Photography by Matt Bramford

The collection was luxe hippie, a perennially popular look that rarely translate into the everyday, unless you happen to be a rock star from years’ past. Nevertheless, it is wonderfully pretty, especially when the boys came highly reminiscent of Jimi Hendrix’s flowery rock attire crossed with the early portraiture of Walker Evans.

Following his video presentation earlier during the week. JW Anderson choose to unleash his recent expansion into faery-esque womenswear onto the menswear catwalk, drawing a few raised eyebrows from a front row settling in for a day of uninterrupted menswear.


Inspired by the photography of William Gedney the collection captured a sense of youthful naive freedom last seen in the work of Sally Mann at The Photographers Gallery.

Illustration by Rob Wallace

A nod to American Youth subcultures, (everything is a nod these day, a rehash, a reminiscence) the clothes arrived as bleached out dreamy tie dyes combined with floral print trousers for the boys and long sheer skirts fitted underneath fisherman knits for the girls.

The collection, a homage to youthful runaways on the Great American Road trip was heavy in the literary romanticism in which JW Anderson excels.

For the finale, the models (beautifully styled by Robbie Spencer) sauntered to the youthful dissatisfaction of Jarvis Cocker’s Pulp, underneath the eery green light provided by lasers more commonly seen at Fabric.

Romina Karamanea skirt by Joana Faria
Romina Karamanea by Joana Faria.

For the past two seasons the good PRs for Romina Karamanea have ensured that there has been a ridiculously long queue of baying fashionistas gathered outside the venue before they will let anyone inside. And so it was that I found myself being battered around on the steps of the Freemasons’ Hall on Tuesday evening: it was late in the week and it wasn’t really what I wanted to deal with. My ex flatmate, for sale a stylist that I used to work for at The Face – we fell out – elbowed her way through with a bit of a hissy fit. I was seriously considering just calling it a day and going right home. But then security announced that it was “too late for stars” meaning that the complex sticker system on invites was about to be ditched, and the PRs next to me agreed that the most important people were at the front anyway – that would include me! love it when I feel less of a pleb – and it all looked good to go.

Romina Karamanea pants by Joana Faria
Romina Karamanea by Joana Faria
Romina Karamanea by Joana Faria.

Ushered into one of the gorgeous upper halls I was seated only three chairs down from my nemesis, who of course refused to acknowledge me. Which is just fine, our relationship never recovered after she moved out of my house and refused to pay her outstanding rent. But it did make me smile. Oh happy days. A funny little girl in latex stockings was placed between us and quickly presented me with her card and a badge. I had to spend the whole show trying to take photos around her as she leaned into the catwalk to take hers, but in the grand tradition of fashion week poseurs she sure was good at attracting attention.

Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina-Karamanea-by-Lisa-Stannard
Romina Karamanea by Lisa Stannard.

For this season Greek born, Central Saint Martins trained Romina looked to abstract expressionism for inspiration, though as her press release cheekily says, basically “the designer had popped to see her artist friend Hermes for a glass of wine.” Three colour stories of white, bluey green and red explored passionate brush strokes and the patterns of natural phenomena and geology. Opposing structures morphed into one garment, voluminous swathes of chiffon colliding with cleanly structured tailoring. It was a big collection that included a smattering of menswear but my favourite pieces were undoubtedly the final ones, glorious rich red undergarments topped with sweeping patterned dresses. Utterly divine.

Romina Karamanea by Joana Faria
Romina Karamanea by Joana Faria
Romina Karamanea by Joana Faria.

I wasn’t aware that Romina Karamanea was an advocate of sustainable design until I found a leaflet featuring her work in the basement at Esthetica, where the Centre for Sustainable Fashion had a corner stand showcasing some of the designers they work with. This organisation was set up by the London College of Fashion, with the aim of “challenging and provoking the established fashion system to work towards the goals of promoting human well being and respecting nature’s limits, whilst creating beauty and style.” Fashion designers are invited to attend workshops and one to one mentoring sessions about how to implement sustainable design practices and apparently Romina is one of their ambassadors, which is very exciting news.

Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina-Karamanea-by-Lisa-Stannard
Romina Karamanea by Lisa Stannard.

But a line in the first paragraph of her blurb immediately made my heart sink just a tiny bit. And not just because of the bad grammar. “Each piece is designed to be loved and kept forever getting better over-time, hopefully like the wearer.” Along with the notion of upcycling (now a far trendier way to say recycling in fashion circles) and making the most of factory waste – both of which I hasten to add are admirable choices when it comes to making fashion – creating clothes to be worn for a long time has become a bit of a get out quick clause for designers. It’s an easy statement to trot out because high fashion is invariably all about luxury and has a price tag to match. Not many people who invest in designer pieces are likely to throw away their purchases every season.

Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

But let’s just stop and think a bit more here. The reality is that these designers continue to show new collections, and we are inevitably urged to delve deep and create ourselves a new wardrobe each time a new season comes around. I only very rarely buy new clothes myself but I can’t claim to be completely removed from the process because I also get really excited about new creativity on the catwalks. It’s an innate human excitement that you can’t take away, but it’s how we deal with that feeling that counts. Of course I am against throwaway mass produced fashion, but sustainability cannot be achieved merely by saying that people should treasure clothes forever, not whilst producing a new collection twice a year with no deeper links to sustainable practice.

Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Reading on, I applaud Romina Karamanea‘s efforts. She is careful to fully research her supply chain, reduce fabric waste, utilise low impact digital printing techniques and organic cottons. She’s an edgy designer with a big following who can really affect people’s perception of working in a sustainable way. But it’s interesting that none of this information was on the press release for the catwalk show, or on her website: after all, who wants to be pigeonholed? It says a lot about how we still perceive an ethical imperative in design.

Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romina Karamanea SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Central Saint Martins, ,Centre for Sustainable Fashion, ,Defying Mainstream, ,esthetica, ,ethical design, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Greek, ,Joana Faria, ,lfw, ,Lisa Stannard, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Romina Karamanea, ,sustainability, ,The Defiant, ,The Face

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