Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Shenzhen Deng Hao

Fashion Shenzhen-Haiping Xie by Phoebe Kirk
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Phoebe Kirk.

There was a palpable sense of energy in the air as I walked into the hall and the lights dimmed for the first of two designers from Fashion Shenzhen. First up: Deng Hao. Special guests included the extravagant performance artist Pandemonia.

Pandemonia Shenzhen Exhibition by Natie Marie
Pandemonia by Natie Marie.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
FASHION SHENHEN_DENG HAO_GEMMATRAVIS
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Gemma Travis.

The music was pumping, information pills the models’ hair slicked back into buns, malady the make-up gold and shimmery with smokey eyeliner. Deng Hao named this collection Flower Devil – GuRan Oriental Scarlet, inspired by Islamic mosques and Chinese temples.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
Fashion_Shenzen_DENG HAO by Caragh_Jackson
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Caragh Jackson.

The collection featured the finest of woven materials and sheer knitwear, embroidered with gems and jewels in shapes of flowers or diamonds, on the collar, sleeves or sharp shoulders.

Sam_Parr_Shenzhen_Deng Hao_WEB
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Sam Parr.

The influence of Islamic architecture was very subtle, with emblems, repeating patterns and borders of the kind that might be seen in holy places. Such symbols were woven and incorporated into the knitwear or onto sheer materials on panels and skirts.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
Shenzhen Dress Deng Hao by Nicola Ellen
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Nicola Ellen.

The bolero jackets, draped sleeves, flamenco style skirts and mermaid tails with multiple frills were European in influence and there were also skin tight dresses with halter necks or sleeveless, worn with leggings or harem pants to enhance the female silhouette. The pieces were incredibly feminine and flirty but still maintained elements of Chinese heritage; I particularly loved the colourful blend of royal reds and blues with hints of viridian green and maroon.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

Shenzhen Deng Hao by Nicola Ellen
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Nicola Ellen.

Watch the full video of the Deng Hao catwalk show and see what you think. Next up, Haiping Xie.

Categories ,Bolero, ,Caragh Jackson, ,China, ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Deng Hao, ,Fashion Shenzhen, ,Flamenco, ,florals, ,Gemma Travis, ,Grand Connaught Rooms, ,Haiping Xie, ,Harem, ,illustrators, ,Islamic, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,knitwear, ,Leggings, ,Natie Marie, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Pandemonia, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Sam Parr, ,Shenzhen, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Shenzhen Haiping Xie

Sam_Parr_Haiping Xie_Shenzhen Yellow
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Sam Parr.

Following the catwalk show from Deng Hao there was a brief interlude with a video from the Shenzhen Tourist Board and then I was delighted to see the collection of Haiping Xie in motion. An oriental version of La Vie en Rose played in the background as Xie’s models came out in metallic bronze make-up with their hair styled in blunt bowl cuts covered in printed bandanas.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Fashion_Shenzen_Haiping Xie_by Caragh_Jackson
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Caragh Jackson.

The atmospheric abstract prints were similar to the ones I had seen at the exhibition, buy information pills with an appealing grainy quality. They featured colourful iconography from Chinese mythology and butterflies that enticed us into an Oriental garden on a spring day. There were lots of textures in this collection; exaggerated tiers of ruffles on skirts, price sheer neon yellow underskirts, cheap feather-like shrugs, pure white and cyan tulle, taffeta and rosettes.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Fashion Shenzhen Haiping Xie by Claire Kearns
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhe by Clarie Kearns.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk

Fashion-Shenzhen-by-Debbie-Ajia
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Debbie Ajia.

As with Deng Hao, traditional garments were juxtaposed with European style dress such as skater skirts, chain halter necks, swing dresses and an exaggerated Spanish flamenco style dress as the main finale. This was a bold, bright and bouncy show but I felt the Shenzhen heritage and mystique was slightly lost underneath the many prints and textures – I preferred the traditional dresses at the exhibition.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

Nevertheless it was very interesting to see how Deng Hao and Haiping Xie have created their own ways of uniting western and eastern cultures together.

Watch the full video of the catwalk show and see what you think. Don’t forget to check out my review of the Deng Hao show too.

Categories ,Awakening, ,Caragh Jackson, ,China, ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Debbie Ajia, ,Deng Hao, ,Fashion Shenzhen, ,Gemma Travis, ,Haiping Xie, ,illustrators, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,La Vie en Rose, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Natie Marie, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Pandemonia, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Sam Parr, ,Shenzhen, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jena.Theo

Jena Theo 1 by Phoebe Kirk London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Jena.Theo S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk

Amongst eight shows that made up a usual manic Friday for Amelia’s Magazine at London Fashion Week, find Jena.Theo was my undisputed fave.

Jena Theo SS12 London Fashion Week by Sam Parr
Jena.Theo S/S 2012 by Sam Parr

London Fashion Week has once again gone all Shoreditch-chic with it’s disused warehouse fashioned venue, My Beautiful City. Giant faintly-lit lightbulbs filled the ceiling directly above the catwalk, their glow fading in and out, and the large, dark airy space boasted distressed stone floors and walls. The catwalk set-up felt surprisingly intimate too, a rarity for an on-schedule venue, which I loved.

Jena Theo 1 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

Jena Theo 4 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

Jena Theo 3 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

With such a laid-back sultry setting, Jena.Theo had chosen just the right venue for their S/S 2012 collection. The colour palette consisted of black, smoky grey, white and cream and brighter colours were restricted to pastel hues to create a more calm un-garish look. Colours also bled into one another on a canvas of fluid silks and satin that billowed behind models as they walked. Inspired by the leading ladies of film noir, masses of draped and tapered fabric created each sexy garment, taking Jena.Theo away from their usual more structural silohette and elevating the collection to it’s “lounge-wear for the seductress” self-definement.

Jena Theo 2 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

Jena Theo FINAL 6 London Fashion Week S/S 2012

Jena Theo 2 - Illustration by Phoebe Kirk - London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Jena.Theo S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk

The collection’s casual element took form in oversized boyfriend-esque shirts, parkas exposing bare chest (boob-flashing seems to be a hot trend this season! – see Shao Yen) grey jersey tees with a twist, a-symmetric shirt dresses and silky drop-crotch trousers.

Jena Theo 7 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

Jena Theo 8 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week
I was with the The Fash Pack‘s Naomi Mdudu after the show when she commented on the ‘overdone drop-crotch trousers by Jena.Theo. Maybe they have been overdone by the brand in the past, but – with a lounge-luxe look to die for – I sure felt they fit into this collection. And, for those that urge to show off those sexy pins, contrasting black hot-knickers and ultra-tight jeans also made an appearance.

Jena Theo 9 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

Jena Theo 10 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

Jena Theo 11 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

Model beautifying included very appropriate bouncy back-combed curls AKA. sexy slept-in bed hair and, unfortunately, some very caked-on, messy make up that even showed up on the professional photographs post-show. Bad move.

Jena Theo 12 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

Jena Theo 13 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

Jena Theo 15 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

The stunning hand-painted silks, which utterly won my heart up-close, turns out to be the work of Jena.Theo‘s collaboration with London-based artist O.Two. He initially worked with aerosol on walls and vertical surfaces and has now applied his style to canvas and fabric, creating a misty, ambient effect. Bold but fluid shapes across fluttering fabric flowed from one look to the next, as an AMAZING playlist consisting of Austra and Trent Razor/Atticus Ross pumped from the sound-system (possibly the best fashion show soundtrack I have ever experienced).

Jena Theo 16 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week

Jena Theo 17 S/S 2012 London Fashion Week
All photography by Duilio Marconi

From harem to hot pants, cinched-in waists to flowing kaftans, the Jena.Theo design duo managed to grasp the essence of the perfect wardrobe for the ultimate femme fatale with both taut and loose silohettes. Now, if only I could actually afford to lounge around the boudoir looking this good. *sigh*

Categories ,Duilio Marconi, ,Femme Fatale, ,Film Noir, ,Georgia Takacs, ,Jena.theo, ,lfw, ,LFW S/S2012, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,My Beautiful City, ,Naomi Mdudu, ,New Oxford Street, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Sam Parr, ,The Fash Pack

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Ones To Watch

Phoebe English 2 by Joana Faria Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2011
Phoebe English S/S 2012 by
Joana Faria

The runways rows at Fashion Scout were packed to their peak for Ones To Watch this season. And after a sneaky trip backstage (to use their loo!) and a run-in with a very dismissive blonde girl, thumb I managed to squeeze myself into the front row. Ones To Watch has become an important platform for rising designers to make their way to the international fashion stage. Four new faces – Phoebe English, check Alice Lee, this Shao Yen and Malene Oddershede Bach – were showcasing their talent in the form of a mini-collection and there was a certain buzz in the air about what these new talents had produced.

Phoebe English by Joana Faria Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2011
Phoebe English S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

First up was Phoebe English. Whatever the opinion on her chosen style, the garments had to have taken eons to produce. Immensely dense, tightly-packed folds of fabric in either cream or black. There was certainly a high level of textile skill involved, yes. But to me, with boxy and unflattering garments that bore no real dress-making credibility, the concept itself seemed lazy. It would be interesting to know what inspired and went into the collection. On face value alone, however, I wasn’t blown away.

Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-010
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-016
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-025
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Strangely enough, the dismissive blonde girl I had dealt with in the backstage loos turned out to be Phoebe English. Yes. I only discovered this when she took to the catwalk to take her bow at the end of her section. Awkward. (Note: There is no link between this and my indifference towards the clothes!)

Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Next was Shao Yen. This Central Saint Martins graduate had gone for a colour choice of gold and black, inspired by ‘the photos of prostitutes that an American photographer took in the 1980s and 90s’ as he told the Central News Agency. Hence the amount of boob flashing, I guess.


Ones to Watch Shao Yen SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Shao Yen SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Shao Yen SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Most looks were slim, elongated blends of different textures – both sheer (for extra boob-revealing action) and covering satin. Different body-parts were sexily revealed in each look – a leg or an arm and shoulder – giving an interesting aesthetic appeal. Some models wore strange big black spindly hats, almost witch-like, and one poor girl struggled to keep hers on as she paced the catwalk.






There was imagination and a certain greatness in Shao Yen‘s conceptualising, showing room for more in years to come. One thing I couldn’t get my head around, however, was the purposeful unfinished look. A layer of gold netting, seemingly gluegunned onto an un-hemmed gold dress? Nuh uh. Not for me.

Alice Lee by Joana Faria Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2011
Alice Lee by Joana Faria 1 London Fashion Week LFW S/S 2012
Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

My complaints die down for the last two Ones to Watch designers – Alice Lee and Malene Oddershede Bach (what a mouthful) – who both shone in terms of innovation, skill and wearability.

Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory

Alice Lee‘s knits were tight-fitting with sexy v-neck cuts and integrated patent chains (which I loved) hence they’re womanly wearibility. Sitting on the front-row, I was close enough to see the garment detail and the quality of the dress-making was undisputed. Models wore circular headpieces that I couldn’t help but match to Princess LeiaStar Wars inspiration? Quite possibly!




Alice Lee by Claire Kearns Ones To Watch London Fashion Week LFW S/S 2012
Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

In Malene Oddershede Bach‘s colour-popping collection stood my favourite outfit of the whole of Day 1. For a designer just starting out, she’d produced a very impressive balance of thematics, individuality and bang-on trends. In her collaboration of intense turquoise and fluoro yello, something very addictive was created. Classic ladylike dresses blended from the yellow to turquoise, top to bottom, delicate snakeskin to full-on circular python print. Outstandingly beautiful. In my opinion, it stood out miles amongst the other desginers, although I stand firm in feeling Alice Lee perhaps looked the more accomplished designer in the group.

Malene Oddershede Bach by Claire Kearns LFW Ones to Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

Malene Oddershede Bach 2 by Phoebe Kirk Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk.



Ones to Watch Malene Oddershede Bach SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Malene Oddershede Bach SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Malene Oddershede Bach 1 by Phoebe Kirk Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk.


Malene Oddershede Bach 3 by Phoebe Kirk Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk

Ones to Watch Malene Oddershede Bach SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory



With Lee and Oddershede Bach, I feel Ones To Watch was very appropriately named. I won’t be forgetting their names any time soon and I’ll be keeping a firm eye on them for the future. And Malene, I would gladly purchase that strong-shouldered cape and top combination any day. So do contact me if it’s up for sale; I can tell you’re gonna go far!

Categories ,Alice Lee, ,Boobs, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Claire Kearns, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Joana Faria, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,Malene Oddershede Bach, ,Nudity, ,Ones To Watch, ,Phoebe English, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Princess Leia, ,Prostitutes, ,Shao Yen Chen, ,Sheer, ,Star Wars, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Toni & Guy – Hair Meets Wardrobe


Naomi Campbell, salve illustrated by Phoebe Kirk

So fashion week (unofficially) kicked off early this S/S 2012 season with a Thursday night show-cum-product launch from purveyors of the faukhawk, Toni & Guy. I had no idea what to expect from this. Well, clearly I imagined there’d be a fair few hair dos on display – but would it take the form of a normal runway show? What would the fashion be like? Would I leave desperate to dash to my nearest T&G salon? I was soon to find out.


Toni & Guy, illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Inside the uninspiring BFC tent within the awe-inspiring Somerset House, we were treated to champagne, Pimm’s and traumatic canapés that make it entirely impossible to look attractive whilst throwing them in your gob. I was starving though, so I did my best ‘I-don’t-even-care-about-looking-attractive’ face whilst hoovering them up. Inside the tent we were rewarded with pretty decent seats, an enormous goodie bag featuring the new Toni & Guy Hair Meets Wardrobe range, and a crisp A4 sheet detailing what was about to happen. I scanned down it and thought I read ‘with an introduction by Naomi Campbell’. I read through it again. I hadn’t been mistaken; ‘with an introduction by NAOMI CAMPBELL‘. There it was, in black and white. Really? The Naomi Campbell? Yikes.


Naomi Campbell, illustrated by Sally Jane Thompson

A scrum ensued when Olivia Palermo took her Frow seat right in front of us: flash after flash left a permanent glare on my eyeballs. She was joined by Matthew Williamson in a rather stylish hat, with yet more flashbulbs going off at record speed.


Olivia Palermo, illustrated by The Lovely Wars

The lights dimmed and an X-Factor-style voiceover requested we welcome NAOMI CAMPBELL. Not much of an ask, let’s face it. Out she sashayed to huge cheers, and I could actually feel one of my legs wobbling. I write the next sentence with caution and hide behind my screen to avoid any airborne mobile phones, but our Naomi isn’t the best public speaker. I can’t imagine she’d spent much time rehearsing, but she fluffed her way through it, referring to Hair Meets Wardrobe as ‘Meet the Wardrobe’, at which I chuckled. Having said that, a woman like Naomi could read the Yellow Pages aloud and I’d still be completely mesmerised.


All photography by Matt Bramford

On with the show, and a video popped up on the big screen showing some of nature’s finest matches: fish ‘n’ chips, gin and tonic and so on – I think they were getting at that hair and wardrobe are quiet important together – a concept not brand new to fashion. The show was then divided into four sections (the four components of the new Toni & Guy brand): classic, casual, glamour and creative.

Classic


Illustration by Gilly Rochester

The classic section featured 1960s-esque natural beauties with slick hair styles. Croydon facelifts were popular – a hairstyle that will never go out of fashion.

Casual
I loved the ‘casual’ section, and can’t wait to mess up my locks with the sea salt spray we were given. Sexy bedroom hair, that I’ve since seen on numerous catwalks, was presented in a variety of ways, from backcombed scruffy heaps piled atop models’ heads, to long natural styles with uneven plaits.

Glamour


Illustration by Gilly Rochester

T&G cranked up the glamour for what was by far my favourite portion of the show. 1920s tight waves walked alongside big, big backcombed locks and modern interpretations of the pompadour. Sexy, smokey eye make-up and flowing frocks brought the looks together perfectly.

Creative

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

This is praps what Toni&Guy are essentially known for – and I have to admit that I was expecting much more of this from the show. Y’know – the kind of hairstyle popular with Diesel-clad punters from Leeds. A couple of spiked coloured numbers felt a bit dated in the mix of all that glamour and sophistication, but a Louise Brooks-esque severe bob soon turned things around. A few cartoonish styles at the end brought a welcomed bit of fun.

Previous fashion editor of Tatler, Charlie Anderson, had styled the show and had married striking outfits with each of the hairstyles. it’s difficult to focus on hair alone when you’re used to watching models parade backwards and forwards, but the clothes (apart from the final pieces) were cool enough to bring the barnets to life without stealing the show. These were my final thoughts as another pap scrum formed where Naomi had taken her seat.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,BFC, ,Casual, ,Charlie Anderson, ,Classic, ,Creative, ,fashion, ,Fauxhawk, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Glamour, ,Hair, ,Hair Meets Wardrobe, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Brooks, ,Naomi Campbell, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Pimm’s, ,S/S 2012, ,Sally Jane Thompson, ,Somerset House, ,The X Factor Voice Over Man, ,Toni & Guy

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Toni & Guy – Hair Meets Wardrobe


Naomi Campbell, salve illustrated by Phoebe Kirk

So fashion week (unofficially) kicked off early this S/S 2012 season with a Thursday night show-cum-product launch from purveyors of the faukhawk, Toni & Guy. I had no idea what to expect from this. Well, clearly I imagined there’d be a fair few hair dos on display – but would it take the form of a normal runway show? What would the fashion be like? Would I leave desperate to dash to my nearest T&G salon? I was soon to find out.


Toni & Guy, illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Inside the uninspiring BFC tent within the awe-inspiring Somerset House, we were treated to champagne, Pimm’s and traumatic canapés that make it entirely impossible to look attractive whilst throwing them in your gob. I was starving though, so I did my best ‘I-don’t-even-care-about-looking-attractive’ face whilst hoovering them up. Inside the tent we were rewarded with pretty decent seats, an enormous goodie bag featuring the new Toni & Guy Hair Meets Wardrobe range, and a crisp A4 sheet detailing what was about to happen. I scanned down it and thought I read ‘with an introduction by Naomi Campbell’. I read through it again. I hadn’t been mistaken; ‘with an introduction by NAOMI CAMPBELL‘. There it was, in black and white. Really? The Naomi Campbell? Yikes.


Naomi Campbell, illustrated by Sally Jane Thompson

A scrum ensued when Olivia Palermo took her Frow seat right in front of us: flash after flash left a permanent glare on my eyeballs. She was joined by Matthew Williamson in a rather stylish hat, with yet more flashbulbs going off at record speed.


Olivia Palermo, illustrated by The Lovely Wars

The lights dimmed and an X-Factor-style voiceover requested we welcome NAOMI CAMPBELL. Not much of an ask, let’s face it. Out she sashayed to huge cheers, and I could actually feel one of my legs wobbling. I write the next sentence with caution and hide behind my screen to avoid any airborne mobile phones, but our Naomi isn’t the best public speaker. I can’t imagine she’d spent much time rehearsing, but she fluffed her way through it, referring to Hair Meets Wardrobe as ‘Meet the Wardrobe’, at which I chuckled. Having said that, a woman like Naomi could read the Yellow Pages aloud and I’d still be completely mesmerised.


All photography by Matt Bramford

On with the show, and a video popped up on the big screen showing some of nature’s finest matches: fish ‘n’ chips, gin and tonic and so on – I think they were getting at that hair and wardrobe are quiet important together – a concept not brand new to fashion. The show was then divided into four sections (the four components of the new Toni & Guy brand): classic, casual, glamour and creative.

Classic


Illustration by Gilly Rochester

The classic section featured 1960s-esque natural beauties with slick hair styles. Croydon facelifts were popular – a hairstyle that will never go out of fashion.

Casual
I loved the ‘casual’ section, and can’t wait to mess up my locks with the sea salt spray we were given. Sexy bedroom hair, that I’ve since seen on numerous catwalks, was presented in a variety of ways, from backcombed scruffy heaps piled atop models’ heads, to long natural styles with uneven plaits.

Glamour


Illustration by Gilly Rochester

T&G cranked up the glamour for what was by far my favourite portion of the show. 1920s tight waves walked alongside big, big backcombed locks and modern interpretations of the pompadour. Sexy, smokey eye make-up and flowing frocks brought the looks together perfectly.

Creative

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

This is praps what Toni&Guy are essentially known for – and I have to admit that I was expecting much more of this from the show. Y’know – the kind of hairstyle popular with Diesel-clad punters from Leeds. A couple of spiked coloured numbers felt a bit dated in the mix of all that glamour and sophistication, but a Louise Brooks-esque severe bob soon turned things around. A few cartoonish styles at the end brought a welcomed bit of fun.

Previous fashion editor of Tatler, Charlie Anderson, had styled the show and had married striking outfits with each of the hairstyles. it’s difficult to focus on hair alone when you’re used to watching models parade backwards and forwards, but the clothes (apart from the final pieces) were cool enough to bring the barnets to life without stealing the show. These were my final thoughts as another pap scrum formed where Naomi had taken her seat.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,BFC, ,Casual, ,Charlie Anderson, ,Classic, ,Creative, ,fashion, ,Fauxhawk, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Glamour, ,Hair, ,Hair Meets Wardrobe, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Brooks, ,Naomi Campbell, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Pimm’s, ,S/S 2012, ,Sally Jane Thompson, ,Somerset House, ,The X Factor Voice Over Man, ,Toni & Guy

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: House of Worth Couture Lingerie

House Of Worth SS12 by Gareth A Hopkins
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins.

As I had arrived at Claridges Hotel ridiculously early to see the House of Worth, approved Couture Lingerie Collection, purchase I was able to admire the interiors, more about the fresh flowers, the gold and white pillars and air of fragrance. With a click of my heels on the marble floors to the French Salon and the Drawing Room, I knew what I was about to see was special, and I wasn’t wrong.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
House of Worth by Claire Kearns
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Claire Kearns.

This was a static exhibition and catwalk with an opportunity to see up close the finest details and feel the fabric between my fingertips, not only on the mannequins, but on the models too. I also had an opportunity to talk to the Head Designer of House of Worth, Giovanni Bedin, about the collection.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
Head designer Giovanni Bedin talks with a model. All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

House of Worth Illustration By Kassie Berry
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Kassie Berry.

My reward for arriving early was the chance to see the models getting ready ‘backstage’. The models sported loose ringlet curls with nude lipstick and minimal smoky makeup that were applied right in front of me, making the space feel really intimate.

LFW house of worth phoebe kirk
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk.

The lingerie collection features balconette and triangle style bras matched with full briefs and thongs, and many outfits shown at Claridges consisted of two layers: long sleeved leotards that covered the fingers combined with a basque or crinoline. There was virginal white lace, sensual black satin tulle and ravenously seductive velvet that featured a recurring circular boned motif in elegant bows and ribbon shapes. By combining the simplicity of a circle with the frills of satin and tulle Giovanni marries the feminine with a more modern aesthetic.

House Of Worth SS12 by Gareth A Hopkins
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gareth Hopkins.

Giovanni Bedin told me that this lingerie collection is an evolution of the previous couture S/S 2011 collection in Paris whereby he became interested in the techniques required to make a jacket or a dress and how these could be applied to underwear. Giovanni strongly believes that Lingerie is Sexy and has so much to say about the wearer that it should not be hidden as mere underwear. He urges the wearers of Worth Lingerie to be versatile; to mix and match the ready-to-wear and couture lingerie with outerwear.

House of Worth by Lianne Harrison
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Lianne Harrison.

House of Worth by Kristina Vasiljeva
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

HOUSE OF WORTH by GEMMA TRAVIS
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gemma Travis.

Versatility is Giovanni Bedin’s strength; as in his previous summer collection the basques are all detachable and easily customisable so that they can be worn as outerwear. When I overheard the models talking they were discussing how comfortable the House of Worth lingerie is to wear, and how they might customise them to wear them on a night out. The House of Worth lingerie range plays with contrasting combinations of design detailing that would befit the modern sensual woman, and wearing one of these outfits as outerwear would definitely be a conversation starter.

LFW house of worth phoebe kirk
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Phoebe Kirk.

When I asked Giovanni Bedin what’s in store for the future he said ‘a development of ready-to-wear lingerie and couture‘ – thereby not letting on too much… but I think we can be assured that there will be more masterpieces from Giovanni Bedin in the near future. All in all, I felt suitably inspired and excited by this new venture for the House of Worth.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review

Categories ,balconette, ,basque, ,Bra, ,Claire Kearns, ,Claridges Hotel, ,Claridge’s Hotel, ,couture, ,crinoline, ,Gareth Hopkins, ,Gemma Travis, ,Giovanni Bedin, ,House of Worth, ,illustrators, ,Inside Out Affair, ,Juliette Fazekas, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,Lianne Harrison, ,lingerie, ,London Fashion Week, ,Melissa Bell, ,Nici Harrison, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Ready-to-wear, ,RMG Public Relations, ,S/S 2012, ,Static exhibition, ,The Drawing Room, ,underwear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: House of Worth Couture Lingerie

House Of Worth SS12 by Gareth A Hopkins
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins.

As I had arrived at Claridges Hotel ridiculously early to see the House of Worth, approved Couture Lingerie Collection, purchase I was able to admire the interiors, more about the fresh flowers, the gold and white pillars and air of fragrance. With a click of my heels on the marble floors to the French Salon and the Drawing Room, I knew what I was about to see was special, and I wasn’t wrong.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
House of Worth by Claire Kearns
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Claire Kearns.

This was a static exhibition and catwalk with an opportunity to see up close the finest details and feel the fabric between my fingertips, not only on the mannequins, but on the models too. I also had an opportunity to talk to the Head Designer of House of Worth, Giovanni Bedin, about the collection.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
Head designer Giovanni Bedin talks with a model. All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

House of Worth Illustration By Kassie Berry
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Kassie Berry.

My reward for arriving early was the chance to see the models getting ready ‘backstage’. The models sported loose ringlet curls with nude lipstick and minimal smoky makeup that were applied right in front of me, making the space feel really intimate.

LFW house of worth phoebe kirk
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk.

The lingerie collection features balconette and triangle style bras matched with full briefs and thongs, and many outfits shown at Claridges consisted of two layers: long sleeved leotards that covered the fingers combined with a basque or crinoline. There was virginal white lace, sensual black satin tulle and ravenously seductive velvet that featured a recurring circular boned motif in elegant bows and ribbon shapes. By combining the simplicity of a circle with the frills of satin and tulle Giovanni marries the feminine with a more modern aesthetic.

House Of Worth SS12 by Gareth A Hopkins
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gareth Hopkins.

Giovanni Bedin told me that this lingerie collection is an evolution of the previous couture S/S 2011 collection in Paris whereby he became interested in the techniques required to make a jacket or a dress and how these could be applied to underwear. Giovanni strongly believes that Lingerie is Sexy and has so much to say about the wearer that it should not be hidden as mere underwear. He urges the wearers of Worth Lingerie to be versatile; to mix and match the ready-to-wear and couture lingerie with outerwear.

House of Worth by Lianne Harrison
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Lianne Harrison.

House of Worth by Kristina Vasiljeva
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

HOUSE OF WORTH by GEMMA TRAVIS
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gemma Travis.

Versatility is Giovanni Bedin’s strength; as in his previous summer collection the basques are all detachable and easily customisable so that they can be worn as outerwear. When I overheard the models talking they were discussing how comfortable the House of Worth lingerie is to wear, and how they might customise them to wear them on a night out. The House of Worth lingerie range plays with contrasting combinations of design detailing that would befit the modern sensual woman, and wearing one of these outfits as outerwear would definitely be a conversation starter.

LFW house of worth phoebe kirk
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Phoebe Kirk.

When I asked Giovanni Bedin what’s in store for the future he said ‘a development of ready-to-wear lingerie and couture‘ – thereby not letting on too much… but I think we can be assured that there will be more masterpieces from Giovanni Bedin in the near future. All in all, I felt suitably inspired and excited by this new venture for the House of Worth.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review

Categories ,balconette, ,basque, ,Bra, ,Claire Kearns, ,Claridges Hotel, ,Claridge’s Hotel, ,couture, ,crinoline, ,Gareth Hopkins, ,Gemma Travis, ,Giovanni Bedin, ,House of Worth, ,illustrators, ,Inside Out Affair, ,Juliette Fazekas, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,Lianne Harrison, ,lingerie, ,London Fashion Week, ,Melissa Bell, ,Nici Harrison, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Ready-to-wear, ,RMG Public Relations, ,S/S 2012, ,Static exhibition, ,The Drawing Room, ,underwear

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