Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: David Koma

David Koma SS12 by Gilly Rochester
David Koma S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester.

Ahhhhh… David Koma. One of London‘s most feted new design talents and a hot ticket on a Tuesday you would think, cialis 40mg but this show was far from full let alone packed, viagra with people scurrying forwards to the front row from all sides as the show began. Beneath the glassed roof of the old Waterloo Eurostar terminal David Koma presented a beautiful collection on some so-so models. I’d heard rumours that an early start to Milan was dragging off the more important parts of the fashion industry but if ever there was proof this was it.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma Illustration By Kassie Berry
David Koma S/S 2012 by Kassie Berry.

Despite some very interesting jutting heads and flapping arms I loved this collection, wherein David Koma played with shapes and textural movement like never before. A silky cream coloured concoction opened the show, with what amounted to a huge belt gathered at the waist into multi-layered loose pleats, inspired by African Zulu style. Underneath the most gauzy of under garments represented the majority of the dress, cut up by abstract devore shapes that were inspired by a combination of Polynesian tribal body paint and the work of artist Kim Joon.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

A gradual hint of summery colour was brought to the proceedings through the use of lime green and bright rose pink on sleeves and behind the devore cut outs in chest panels. As in many other collections skirted shapes encompassed both pencil and a wider skater shape, but because of the layering it was here that the different looks worked at their seamless best.

David Koma by Gareth A Hopkins
David Koma S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

High heels by Alain Quilici were chunky with wide t-bar sections that frilled out in an echo of the waist pleats. Hair featured multiple partings similar to the abstract designs on clothing. Check out the amazing coloured Minx Nails up close in this blog on Inspirational.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
david_koma_by_ada_jusic
David Koma S/S 2012 by Ada Jusic.

With a rattle of swaying hips iridescent perspex adornments – a collaboration with jewellery designer Sarah Angold – began to spread across thighs and breasts. A series of inky black dresses were highlighted in turquoise before the final pieces became engulfed in an oily rainbow of perspex embellishment, this time repeated in exquisite pearlised sequin designs paired with more of that luscious lime. Yum.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma S/S 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,abstract, ,Ada Jusic, ,African, ,Alain Quilici, ,Belts, ,David Koma, ,Devore, ,Embellishment, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Inspirational, ,Iridescent, ,jewellery, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kim Joon, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Minx Nails, ,Pearlised, ,pencil skirt, ,Perspex, ,Pleated, ,Polynesian, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Angold, ,Skater Skirt, ,Tribal patterns, ,Waterloo Eurostar Terminal, ,Zulu

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Exhibition Review: Fashion Shenzhen

Haiping Xie- Shenzhen Exhibition by Claire Kearns
Haiping Xie at the Fashion Shenzhen Exhibition by Claire Kearns.

I didn’t know what to expect when I arrived at the Grand Connaught Rooms for the Fashion Shenzhen exhibition. When I did arrive, order I found it a far cry from Somerset House. The exhibition consisted of stalls from designers, manufacturing companies and brands from Shenzhen, fashion capital of China.

Shenzhen Exhibition
All Photography by June Chanpoomidole.

With the tweed squared pattern carpet and white banner metallic stalls, it looked and felt like a corporate event. Nevertheless, I found many examples of interesting Chinese design on display.

Omnialuo-Shenzhen Exhibition by Nicola Ellen
Omnialuo Silk Oriental Handbag by Nicola Ellen.

Omnialuo-Shenzhen Exhibtion by Fuad Ali
Omnialuo by Fuad Ali.

The style of Omnialuo is luxurious, romantic and noble, with a touch of elegance derived from 1940s Shanghai. Green and black silk loose skirts and tops are styled with brush calligraphy. Chinese style tops and an elegant black evening dress feature lotus flower motifs. This is what I dream of seeing in the UK High Street stores.

Nuit Blanche-Shenzhen-Exhibtion
Nuit Blanche-Shenzhen Exhibition by Natie Marie
Nuit Blanche by Natie Marie.

I loved the red felt dress by Nuit Blanche, a Swedish designer who is popular in both Sweden and China.

Awakening-Shenzhen Exhibition Pamplet
Actual Pamphlet given to me at the Exhibition.

I was given a pamphlet by Awakening, which was more like a loving plea to think about where the materials we wear come from, ‘to love Animals and love planet Home.’ The text was endearing without the use of horrific imagery or the need to ram the message home to the reader, which was very effective.

Awakening dress-Shenzhen Exhibition
Sam_Parr_Awakening Shenzhen Exhibition  LFW SS12
Awakening by Sam Parr.

So I had a look at their stall. Their clothing is made of ethically sourced and recycled materials, such as newspapers and polyester. To promote loving, eco friendly fashion, the brand aims to ‘awaken’ people’s consciousness to treasure all kinds of life and to maintain a healthy sustainable lifestyle.

Awakening-LFW Shenzhen Exhibition By Kassie Berry
Awakening by Kassie Berry.

I really loved the cuts and use of recyclable materials, especially the waterfall dress with prints of animals. The designs were made to prompt consideration for our planet Earth, with waterfalls engulfing swans and the cut of the fabric mimicking the shapes of rivers.

MyMo-Shenzhen-Exhibtion
MyMo dress-Shenzhen-Exhibtion
The name of the My Mo brand immediately caught my eye and the manager explained to me that the name is abbreviated from My Moment, as the collection and brand is based around the concept of an office girl, who can customise the look to suit work and play, to shine and have their ‘moment.’ It’s a simple but effective concept for the modern practical women.

MyMo-Shenzhen exhibition-by-Nicola-Rowlands
My Mo by Nicola Rowlands.

The collection had a light, delicate look with sheer, neutral and nude tones, which could easily be customised with a vest top or a tailored jacket. The grey dress with red and white lines and repeat diamond patterns reminded me of the kind of dress that is worn for tennis or running, but the cut and draping was more flattering around the bust and hips. Grey can be dreary during the summer, so a hint of red and white reveals some personality in the office.

HaipingXie-Shenzhen-Exhibtion
I have had such love for traditional Chinese dresses ever since watching Kar Wai Wong’s In the Mood for Love. The prints on Haiping Xie dresses were atmospheric, consisting of dragons’ emblems, lotuses, the moon goddess and even the Great Wall of China. The grainy quality of the prints reminded me of historic daytime Chinese Drama shows I used to see in Thailand. This was a colourful collection of dresses, with strong reds and yellows, which I would love in my wardrobe. I was very happy to see more of Haiping Xie on the catwalk later that day.

Ambassador-Shenzhen Exhibition
There was a surprise visit to the Fashion Shenzhen exhibition from ambassador of China Liu Xiaoming and his wife, Hu Pinghua, who looked incredibly elegant and could definitely give Samantha Cameron a run for her money.

Shenzhen Exhibition-Presentation
Despite the corporate environment I could see beyond it to the real purpose of exhibition. Shenzhen is a young city. Around 32 years ago, it used to be a small fishing village and has now been transformed into an advanced modern metropolis. Shenzhen was the first city in China to open itself up to the outside world, and has ever since been at the forefront of China’s economic reform. Exposed to Western fashion styles, Shenzhen has also absorbed influences and trends from across China. It is within Shenzhen that Chinese fashion has found its feet, so it’s no surprise that the city’s talent is now being shown off to the international community. Xiaoming described Fashion Shenzhen as nurturing both a ’traditional and creative culture,’ and this was definitely apparent in the designs that I saw around the exhibition.

The presentation by the Ambassador was incredibly dignified, after which he guided us to the adjoining building where Vauxhall Fashion Scout is held, ready to see the catwalk show….

Categories ,Awakening, ,China, ,China Liu Xiaoming, ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Deng Hao, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Shenzhen, ,Fuad Ali, ,Grand Connaught Rooms, ,Haiping Xie, ,Hu Pinghua, ,illustrators, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Kassie Berry, ,Liu Xiaoming, ,London Fashion Week, ,My Mo, ,Natie Marie, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Nuit Blanche, ,Omnialuo, ,Shenzhen, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: House of Worth Couture Lingerie

House Of Worth SS12 by Gareth A Hopkins
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins.

As I had arrived at Claridges Hotel ridiculously early to see the House of Worth, approved Couture Lingerie Collection, purchase I was able to admire the interiors, more about the fresh flowers, the gold and white pillars and air of fragrance. With a click of my heels on the marble floors to the French Salon and the Drawing Room, I knew what I was about to see was special, and I wasn’t wrong.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
House of Worth by Claire Kearns
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Claire Kearns.

This was a static exhibition and catwalk with an opportunity to see up close the finest details and feel the fabric between my fingertips, not only on the mannequins, but on the models too. I also had an opportunity to talk to the Head Designer of House of Worth, Giovanni Bedin, about the collection.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
Head designer Giovanni Bedin talks with a model. All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

House of Worth Illustration By Kassie Berry
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Kassie Berry.

My reward for arriving early was the chance to see the models getting ready ‘backstage’. The models sported loose ringlet curls with nude lipstick and minimal smoky makeup that were applied right in front of me, making the space feel really intimate.

LFW house of worth phoebe kirk
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk.

The lingerie collection features balconette and triangle style bras matched with full briefs and thongs, and many outfits shown at Claridges consisted of two layers: long sleeved leotards that covered the fingers combined with a basque or crinoline. There was virginal white lace, sensual black satin tulle and ravenously seductive velvet that featured a recurring circular boned motif in elegant bows and ribbon shapes. By combining the simplicity of a circle with the frills of satin and tulle Giovanni marries the feminine with a more modern aesthetic.

House Of Worth SS12 by Gareth A Hopkins
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gareth Hopkins.

Giovanni Bedin told me that this lingerie collection is an evolution of the previous couture S/S 2011 collection in Paris whereby he became interested in the techniques required to make a jacket or a dress and how these could be applied to underwear. Giovanni strongly believes that Lingerie is Sexy and has so much to say about the wearer that it should not be hidden as mere underwear. He urges the wearers of Worth Lingerie to be versatile; to mix and match the ready-to-wear and couture lingerie with outerwear.

House of Worth by Lianne Harrison
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Lianne Harrison.

House of Worth by Kristina Vasiljeva
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

HOUSE OF WORTH by GEMMA TRAVIS
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gemma Travis.

Versatility is Giovanni Bedin’s strength; as in his previous summer collection the basques are all detachable and easily customisable so that they can be worn as outerwear. When I overheard the models talking they were discussing how comfortable the House of Worth lingerie is to wear, and how they might customise them to wear them on a night out. The House of Worth lingerie range plays with contrasting combinations of design detailing that would befit the modern sensual woman, and wearing one of these outfits as outerwear would definitely be a conversation starter.

LFW house of worth phoebe kirk
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Phoebe Kirk.

When I asked Giovanni Bedin what’s in store for the future he said ‘a development of ready-to-wear lingerie and couture‘ – thereby not letting on too much… but I think we can be assured that there will be more masterpieces from Giovanni Bedin in the near future. All in all, I felt suitably inspired and excited by this new venture for the House of Worth.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review

Categories ,balconette, ,basque, ,Bra, ,Claire Kearns, ,Claridges Hotel, ,Claridge’s Hotel, ,couture, ,crinoline, ,Gareth Hopkins, ,Gemma Travis, ,Giovanni Bedin, ,House of Worth, ,illustrators, ,Inside Out Affair, ,Juliette Fazekas, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,Lianne Harrison, ,lingerie, ,London Fashion Week, ,Melissa Bell, ,Nici Harrison, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Ready-to-wear, ,RMG Public Relations, ,S/S 2012, ,Static exhibition, ,The Drawing Room, ,underwear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: House of Worth Couture Lingerie

House Of Worth SS12 by Gareth A Hopkins
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins.

As I had arrived at Claridges Hotel ridiculously early to see the House of Worth, approved Couture Lingerie Collection, purchase I was able to admire the interiors, more about the fresh flowers, the gold and white pillars and air of fragrance. With a click of my heels on the marble floors to the French Salon and the Drawing Room, I knew what I was about to see was special, and I wasn’t wrong.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
House of Worth by Claire Kearns
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Claire Kearns.

This was a static exhibition and catwalk with an opportunity to see up close the finest details and feel the fabric between my fingertips, not only on the mannequins, but on the models too. I also had an opportunity to talk to the Head Designer of House of Worth, Giovanni Bedin, about the collection.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
Head designer Giovanni Bedin talks with a model. All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

House of Worth Illustration By Kassie Berry
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Kassie Berry.

My reward for arriving early was the chance to see the models getting ready ‘backstage’. The models sported loose ringlet curls with nude lipstick and minimal smoky makeup that were applied right in front of me, making the space feel really intimate.

LFW house of worth phoebe kirk
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk.

The lingerie collection features balconette and triangle style bras matched with full briefs and thongs, and many outfits shown at Claridges consisted of two layers: long sleeved leotards that covered the fingers combined with a basque or crinoline. There was virginal white lace, sensual black satin tulle and ravenously seductive velvet that featured a recurring circular boned motif in elegant bows and ribbon shapes. By combining the simplicity of a circle with the frills of satin and tulle Giovanni marries the feminine with a more modern aesthetic.

House Of Worth SS12 by Gareth A Hopkins
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gareth Hopkins.

Giovanni Bedin told me that this lingerie collection is an evolution of the previous couture S/S 2011 collection in Paris whereby he became interested in the techniques required to make a jacket or a dress and how these could be applied to underwear. Giovanni strongly believes that Lingerie is Sexy and has so much to say about the wearer that it should not be hidden as mere underwear. He urges the wearers of Worth Lingerie to be versatile; to mix and match the ready-to-wear and couture lingerie with outerwear.

House of Worth by Lianne Harrison
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Lianne Harrison.

House of Worth by Kristina Vasiljeva
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

HOUSE OF WORTH by GEMMA TRAVIS
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gemma Travis.

Versatility is Giovanni Bedin’s strength; as in his previous summer collection the basques are all detachable and easily customisable so that they can be worn as outerwear. When I overheard the models talking they were discussing how comfortable the House of Worth lingerie is to wear, and how they might customise them to wear them on a night out. The House of Worth lingerie range plays with contrasting combinations of design detailing that would befit the modern sensual woman, and wearing one of these outfits as outerwear would definitely be a conversation starter.

LFW house of worth phoebe kirk
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Phoebe Kirk.

When I asked Giovanni Bedin what’s in store for the future he said ‘a development of ready-to-wear lingerie and couture‘ – thereby not letting on too much… but I think we can be assured that there will be more masterpieces from Giovanni Bedin in the near future. All in all, I felt suitably inspired and excited by this new venture for the House of Worth.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review

Categories ,balconette, ,basque, ,Bra, ,Claire Kearns, ,Claridges Hotel, ,Claridge’s Hotel, ,couture, ,crinoline, ,Gareth Hopkins, ,Gemma Travis, ,Giovanni Bedin, ,House of Worth, ,illustrators, ,Inside Out Affair, ,Juliette Fazekas, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,Lianne Harrison, ,lingerie, ,London Fashion Week, ,Melissa Bell, ,Nici Harrison, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Ready-to-wear, ,RMG Public Relations, ,S/S 2012, ,Static exhibition, ,The Drawing Room, ,underwear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Kirsty Ward: The London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Preview Interview

Kirsty Ward by Kassie Berry
Kirsty Ward S/S 2012 by Kassie Berry.

In the past few seasons I’ve been super impressed with the work of up and coming designer Kirsty Ward. She won’t be taking to the catwalk this season but I still thought I’d do a sneaky catch up interview with her to find out what she’s got in store for S/S 2012. Here goes…

Kirsty Ward by Claire Kearns
Kirsty Ward by Claire Kearns.

How did you come up with your signature look: sculptural boning of organza to create many layered shapes?
It’s something I have been obsessed with since my MA at Central Saint Martins and has evolved since then, check and there’s always a way each season that I want to push it. I probably won’t ever tire of it.

Kirsty Ward S/S 2012
When did your love of the 80s start?
I’m not sure when, and im not sure if its because I was born in 1982 but I like the possibility and forward thinking of the era, it’s when people started to break the mould more.

Kirsty Ward by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
Kirsty Ward S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs.

You can’t bear stud earrings: do you ever feel the physical effects from your love of such big jewellery? Do you take a break from them when you are working or would we find you hunched over a sewing machine with 3 inch earrings dangling dangerously close to the mechanisms?
Haha when I’m working I will generally be jewelleryless – I like wearing teenage boy clothes, with nothing dangling inbetween pattern cutting and sewing. I’m sure there have been some jewellery related accidents as I’m quite clumsy but I cannot think of any specific incidents.

Why do you think that jewellery is so important these days and what can good jewellery offer to an outfit?
Jewellery is great as it can totally make a boring outfit look cool and it’s also not sizeist, so bigger people can wear it too, as not everyone is built for high fashion garments.

Kirsty Ward SS 2012 inspiration girl
You find lots of jewellery components in hardware shops. Do you have any favourite haunts? eg. Have you ever discovered a treasure trove of ancient hardware bits and if so where was this eureka moment?
I tend to favour the great British institutes such as B&Q, theres this online floristry supplier that I love called Micheal dark and my dad is a carpenter so he has lots of fun stuff in his van/tool box. I also like alot of trade only places filled with guys in high vis vests etc wondering what the hell I’m doing in there buying x40 plumbing parts!

Kirsty Ward by Debbie Ajia
Kirsty Ward S/S 2012 by Debbie Ajia.

Are you still collaborating with David Longshaw and if so what can we except from him this season, any insider tips?
Of course he’s my boyfriend, he can’t get rid of me! Well there’s lots of prints (of course) of his beautiful illustrations mixed with some fucked up florals (fucked up in a good way).

Kirsty Ward SS 2012 blue
Why did you decide to forgo a catwalk show this season and instead present the collection on a static stand with a film? What can you tell us about the film?
To be honest as a young designer a catwalk show is far too expensive for me at the moment. I thought it would be far more sensible to meet with buyers and press in an environment where I can talk them through my collection, this way they can see all the details and craftsmanship.
The film will be one word – FUN!

Kirsty Ward SS 2012 inspiration
Last season you’d been watching a lot of Star Wars and that seemed to sneak into some of the dress shapes. Have you been watching some influential movies this season and if so what?
I’ve been watching quite a few shit sci-fi movies – generally the crapper they are the more I will like it, I especially like bad acting and awful special effects. I don’t think it has rubbed off too much in the collection, but we will see in the final lookbook photos!

Kirsty Ward SS 2012 inspiration
This season you’ve been inspired by a “mundane mix of officewear, stationary, menswear detailing and suspended layering.” How can stationary influence clothing?!
It’s more about the stationary being used in the jewellery, its taken over from the hardware of past seasons. 

What new fabrics have you used for the upcoming S/S 2012 season?
Well there’s always a sheer, then there’s a mix of luxurious vs sporty with sand washed silks, neoprene, cotton drills and striped shirting.

Kirsty Ward by Samantha Eynon
Kirsty Ward by Samantha Eynon.

Is music important to you and if so what will you be listening to in the run up to Fashion Week? Any favourites on the decks?
Definitely – I hate working in silence, it puts me on edge. At the moment in the studio were playing: Metronomy, Hot Chip, The Knife, Peaches, Lykke Li, Little Dragon, Yelle.

I’m sure you have loads to do, but what will an average day be like in the final run up to LFW? What will you do to rest and relax?
To be honest my life at the moment revolves around ss12, so if I’m not working on it I’m thinking about it, but as we touched on before I so like to watch the odd shit sci-fi movie.

Kirsty Ward inspiration
No more nipples for S/S 2012: you’ve collaborated with designer Josefine Wing of Mint Siren for an underwear collection this season. What has been the best bit about this project?
It’s good to have another persons knowledge and skills to work with as I didn’t have a clue about the technical side of underwear.

Who is the ideal woman to wear your clothes? Do you think you would ever branch out into menswear?
There’s not a specific example, just someone who likes to have fun with their clothing/jewellery and someone that appreciates the hidden details. I wouldn’t say no to menswear – I often do made to measure pieces for male friends, but who knows about an actual collection!

Where can people get their hands on a piece of Kirsty Ward?
My pieces can be found in China, Japan, Amsterdam, and Italy but In the UK my pieces can be found at Young British Designers, Bengt Fashion and I will be selling select and limited edition pieces on my website (www.kirsty-ward.com)

If you’ve only just discovered Kirsty Ward why not check in with our other blogs about this talented designer (with loads of illustrations):

Kirsty Ward S/S 2011
Kirsty Ward Ones to Watch A/W 2011 Preview
Kirsty Ward Ones to Watch A/W 2011
and another blog about Ones to Watch A/W 2011

You can find Kirsty Ward at the static stands during London Fashion Week.

Categories ,1980s, ,B&Q, ,Bengt Fashion, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Claire Kearns, ,David Longshaw, ,Debbie Ajia, ,Earrings, ,Film. Mint Siren, ,Hardware, ,Hot Chip, ,interview, ,jewellery, ,Josefine Wing, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kirsty Ward, ,Little Dragon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lykke Li, ,ma, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,metronomy, ,Peaches, ,preview, ,S/S 2012, ,Samantha Eynon, ,Sci-Fi, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Star Wars, ,Stationary, ,Structural, ,The Knife, ,Yelle, ,young british designers

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with The Raincoats as 1981 album Odyshape is rereleased on We ThRee

The Raincoats by James Shedden
The Raincoats by James Shedden.

The Raincoats are an all girl band who formed during the late 1970s and split up in the mid 1980s. I was very little at the time of their original releases so unfortunately I did not discover The Raincoats until much more recently, online well into my adult years. The band had an exciting can do attitude that melded punk, see classical and reggae influences into spiky arrhythmic folk punk tunes that even today sound way more exciting than many current bands. They reformed in the mid 90s after a resurgence in interest thanks to gushing plaudits from Kurt Cobain and are now widely hailed as one of the seminal post punk bands. I catch up with founders Ana da Silva and Gina Birch as they gear up to rerelease their second album on its 30th anniversary.

Raincoats in Poland

Why did you decide to reissue Odyshape now?
ANA:  This year is the 30th anniversary of this album. So, as we like anniversaries, we decided to release The Raincoats and Odyshape on their 30th… We remastered the albums for Japan and re-did the art work so it would sound and look the best possible. We now own the rights to them and, as they should be available, we thought we’d release them on our own label We ThRee. Both on CD and vinyl. They look and sound the best ever! Theyl also have a booklet and A4 sheet respectively with liner notes, lyrics, photos and a piece of writing from me on the 1st album and from Gina on Odyshape.

The raincoats odyshape
What does Odyshape mean?
GINA: The title was a pun on the odyssey of a body. The idea that a body could have an ideal shape and it if did, what happens when a body doesn’t live up to that ideal. It was at a time, when (as probably now) there seemed to be a body fascism. It was important for women to be this shape or that shape. Thanks to people like Beth Ditto, and hopefully The Raincoats, things have been broken down a little. Hair can be crazy, messy, outfits can be baggy or tight, inside out or upside down, we can be fat or thin, creative, playful, stylish and beautiful without having to subscribe to some fashion mag ideal.

The Raincoats1981
You formed the original band whilst still at art college… how did your studies in art influence how you made music?
ANA: Besides the obvious side of art work, I think we’re trying to do what art should do: create works that inspire other people, that question the status quo, that express ideas which come from our own minds and hearts and also works that look at the human condition and provide some comfort to the listener.

The Raincoats by Karin Soderquist
The Raincoats by Karin Soderquist.

Odyshape seems to owe as much to contemporary classical music as it does punk – was this something that inspired you?    
ANA: We listen to all sorts of music so, intentionally or unintentionally, different  things appear. I do like some classical music very much, like the Bach‘s cello suites, Erik Satie, some opera, etc.  but I don’t think my playing sounds very classical…maybe you mean the violin which was played by Vicky Aspinall who is classically trained.

The Raincoats by Janette Beckman1981
The Raincoats in 1981.

You haven’t produced a new album since the mid 90s – what have you been up to since then?
ANA: I’ve been doing my own solo music and released an album called The Lighthouse on Chicks On Speed records. I’ve also been doing some drawings and paintings some of which I’ll be showing at the Pop Montreal festival, together with Gina’s videos and Shirley’s photographs. It’s really a great opportunity to show our art, visual and musical. It’s the first time we do this and are very happy and excited about it.
GINA: I have been collaborating with various musicians and artists and very involved in a project called The Gluts, (with two women artists) Also I have been playing solo, writing songs, making films, painting and, raising two children.

The Raincoats by Rukmunal Hakim
The Raincoats by Rukmunal Hakim.

Gina – you were an early fan of the craft revival – knitting on tour. Do you still craft and if so what?
GINA: I did knit on the first Raincoats tour, when I wore the jumper at the final gig… and then didn’t do any knittingfor quite a few years but have always liked to paint, draw, knit, mosaic, make films whatever. I have been knitting a lot in the last year or two and have made Raincoats inspired bags, and I have also been sewing banners with lyrics and messages on them.  

The Raincoats by Kassie Berry
The Raincoats by Kassie Berry.

Has Gina Birch’s film, The Raincoats, Fairytales, been completed? 
GINA: The film is still a work in progress. It is an organic process it seems and hopefully will be concluded in the coming six months.

YouTube Preview ImageBaby Song performed live in the 80s

You will be playing your debut album live again at ATP this December – anything special in store and what are you looking forward to most about the Holiday Camp experience?
ANA: Just playing is a special thing, but we’ve played twice at ATP and really enjoyed it: swimming, meeting people, being able to choose amongst so much different music and the relaxed atmosphere. We will be playing the first album at Jeff Mangum‘s request but will play other songs too, not sure which yet.

YouTube Preview ImageThe Raincoats perform live at ATP in 2010

Which other current bands do you enjoy listening to or watching?
ANA: I think P.J. Harvey‘s latest album is so good, so I enjoyed listening to it at seeing them live a couple of times. Also saw Portishead whose music I like but had never seen live and that was very good too. I was listening yesterday to Ponytail, Colleen, Electrelane, Neutral Milk HotelLouis and Bebe BarronJenny O in the car coming back from Portugal.

The-Raincoats-By-Barb-Royal
The Raincoats by Barb Royal.

What next for The Raincoats?
ANA: We’re doing a tour in the U.S.A. and Canada (New York, Washington, Chicago, Detroit, Toronto and Montreal) in September and ATP in December. And because of the re-release of Odyshape and those dates some interviews too… thanks for your part. Otherwise nothing concrete, but I’m sure other things will happen.

YouTube Preview ImageOnly Loved at Night, performed live in 2009

Odyshape is rereleased in heavyweight vinyl and as a special edition CD on We ThRee records on September 12th 2011. The band will tour the east coast of the USA from 16 – 26 September 2011 and play Jeff Mangum’s ATP, Minehead on 3 December 2011.

Categories ,1980s, ,2011, ,album, ,Ana da Silva, ,Arrhythmic, ,atp, ,Baby Song, ,Bach, ,Barb Royal, ,Bebe Barron, ,Beth Ditto, ,Body Fascism, ,Chicks on Speed, ,classical, ,Colleen, ,December, ,Electrelane, ,Erik Satie, ,folk, ,Gina Birch, ,James Shedden, ,Jeff Mangum, ,Jenny O, ,Karin Söderquist, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kurt Cobain, ,Louis, ,Neutral Milk Hotel, ,Odyshape, ,Only Loved at Night, ,PJ Harvey, ,Ponytail, ,Pop Montreal, ,Portishead, ,punk, ,Rerelease, ,review, ,Rukmunal Hakim, ,The LIghthouse, ,The Raincoats, ,tour, ,Vicky Aspinall, ,Violin, ,We ThRee, ,WETHREE

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