Gemma Travis – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Shenzhen Deng Hao

Fashion Shenzhen-Haiping Xie by Phoebe Kirk
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Phoebe Kirk.

There was a palpable sense of energy in the air as I walked into the hall and the lights dimmed for the first of two designers from Fashion Shenzhen. First up: Deng Hao. Special guests included the extravagant performance artist Pandemonia.

Pandemonia Shenzhen Exhibition by Natie Marie
Pandemonia by Natie Marie.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk

FASHION SHENHEN_DENG HAO_GEMMATRAVIS
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Gemma Travis.

The music was pumping, information pills the models’ hair slicked back into buns, malady the make-up gold and shimmery with smokey eyeliner. Deng Hao named this collection Flower Devil – GuRan Oriental Scarlet, inspired by Islamic mosques and Chinese temples.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk

Fashion_Shenzen_DENG HAO by Caragh_Jackson
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Caragh Jackson.

The collection featured the finest of woven materials and sheer knitwear, embroidered with gems and jewels in shapes of flowers or diamonds, on the collar, sleeves or sharp shoulders.

Sam_Parr_Shenzhen_Deng Hao_WEB
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Sam Parr.

The influence of Islamic architecture was very subtle, with emblems, repeating patterns and borders of the kind that might be seen in holy places. Such symbols were woven and incorporated into the knitwear or onto sheer materials on panels and skirts.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk

Shenzhen Dress Deng Hao by Nicola Ellen
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Nicola Ellen.

The bolero jackets, draped sleeves, flamenco style skirts and mermaid tails with multiple frills were European in influence and there were also skin tight dresses with halter necks or sleeveless, worn with leggings or harem pants to enhance the female silhouette. The pieces were incredibly feminine and flirty but still maintained elements of Chinese heritage; I particularly loved the colourful blend of royal reds and blues with hints of viridian green and maroon.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk

All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

Shenzhen Deng Hao by Nicola Ellen
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Nicola Ellen.

Watch the full video of the Deng Hao catwalk show and see what you think. Next up, Haiping Xie.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/29275342" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/29275342</a>

Written by June Chanpoomidole on Thursday September 29th, 2011 4:40 pm

Categories ,Bolero, ,Caragh Jackson, ,China, ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Deng Hao, ,Fashion Shenzhen, ,Flamenco, ,florals, ,Gemma Travis, ,Grand Connaught Rooms, ,Haiping Xie, ,Harem, ,illustrators, ,Islamic, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,knitwear, ,Leggings, ,Natie Marie, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Pandemonia, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Sam Parr, ,Shenzhen, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Shenzhen Haiping Xie

Sam_Parr_Haiping Xie_Shenzhen Yellow
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Sam Parr.

Following the catwalk show from Deng Hao there was a brief interlude with a video from the Shenzhen Tourist Board and then I was delighted to see the collection of Haiping Xie in motion. An oriental version of La Vie en Rose played in the background as Xie’s models came out in metallic bronze make-up with their hair styled in blunt bowl cuts covered in printed bandanas.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk

Fashion_Shenzen_Haiping Xie_by Caragh_Jackson
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Caragh Jackson.

The atmospheric abstract prints were similar to the ones I had seen at the exhibition, buy information pills with an appealing grainy quality. They featured colourful iconography from Chinese mythology and butterflies that enticed us into an Oriental garden on a spring day. There were lots of textures in this collection; exaggerated tiers of ruffles on skirts, price sheer neon yellow underskirts, cheap feather-like shrugs, pure white and cyan tulle, taffeta and rosettes.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk

Fashion Shenzhen Haiping Xie by Claire Kearns
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhe by Clarie Kearns.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk

Fashion-Shenzhen-by-Debbie-Ajia
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Debbie Ajia.

As with Deng Hao, traditional garments were juxtaposed with European style dress such as skater skirts, chain halter necks, swing dresses and an exaggerated Spanish flamenco style dress as the main finale. This was a bold, bright and bouncy show but I felt the Shenzhen heritage and mystique was slightly lost underneath the many prints and textures – I preferred the traditional dresses at the exhibition.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk

All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

Nevertheless it was very interesting to see how Deng Hao and Haiping Xie have created their own ways of uniting western and eastern cultures together.

Watch the full video of the catwalk show and see what you think. Don’t forget to check out my review of the Deng Hao show too.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/29277227" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/29277227</a>

Written by June Chanpoomidole on Friday September 30th, 2011 8:51 am

Categories ,Awakening, ,Caragh Jackson, ,China, ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Debbie Ajia, ,Deng Hao, ,Fashion Shenzhen, ,Gemma Travis, ,Haiping Xie, ,illustrators, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,La Vie en Rose, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Natie Marie, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Pandemonia, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Sam Parr, ,Shenzhen, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: House of Worth Couture Lingerie

House Of Worth SS12 by Gareth A Hopkins
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins.

As I had arrived at Claridges Hotel ridiculously early to see the House of Worth, approved Couture Lingerie Collection, purchase I was able to admire the interiors, more about the fresh flowers, the gold and white pillars and air of fragrance. With a click of my heels on the marble floors to the French Salon and the Drawing Room, I knew what I was about to see was special, and I wasn’t wrong.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review

House of Worth by Claire Kearns
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Claire Kearns.

This was a static exhibition and catwalk with an opportunity to see up close the finest details and feel the fabric between my fingertips, not only on the mannequins, but on the models too. I also had an opportunity to talk to the Head Designer of House of Worth, Giovanni Bedin, about the collection.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review
Head designer Giovanni Bedin talks with a model. All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

House of Worth Illustration By Kassie Berry
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Kassie Berry.

My reward for arriving early was the chance to see the models getting ready ‘backstage’. The models sported loose ringlet curls with nude lipstick and minimal smoky makeup that were applied right in front of me, making the space feel really intimate.

LFW house of worth phoebe kirk
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk.

The lingerie collection features balconette and triangle style bras matched with full briefs and thongs, and many outfits shown at Claridges consisted of two layers: long sleeved leotards that covered the fingers combined with a basque or crinoline. There was virginal white lace, sensual black satin tulle and ravenously seductive velvet that featured a recurring circular boned motif in elegant bows and ribbon shapes. By combining the simplicity of a circle with the frills of satin and tulle Giovanni marries the feminine with a more modern aesthetic.

House Of Worth SS12 by Gareth A Hopkins
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gareth Hopkins.

Giovanni Bedin told me that this lingerie collection is an evolution of the previous couture S/S 2011 collection in Paris whereby he became interested in the techniques required to make a jacket or a dress and how these could be applied to underwear. Giovanni strongly believes that Lingerie is Sexy and has so much to say about the wearer that it should not be hidden as mere underwear. He urges the wearers of Worth Lingerie to be versatile; to mix and match the ready-to-wear and couture lingerie with outerwear.

House of Worth by Lianne Harrison
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Lianne Harrison.

House of Worth by Kristina Vasiljeva
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

HOUSE OF WORTH by GEMMA TRAVIS
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Gemma Travis.

Versatility is Giovanni Bedin’s strength; as in his previous summer collection the basques are all detachable and easily customisable so that they can be worn as outerwear. When I overheard the models talking they were discussing how comfortable the House of Worth lingerie is to wear, and how they might customise them to wear them on a night out. The House of Worth lingerie range plays with contrasting combinations of design detailing that would befit the modern sensual woman, and wearing one of these outfits as outerwear would definitely be a conversation starter.

LFW house of worth phoebe kirk
House Of Worth Couture Lingerie A/W 2011 by Phoebe Kirk.

When I asked Giovanni Bedin what’s in store for the future he said ‘a development of ready-to-wear lingerie and couture‘ – thereby not letting on too much… but I think we can be assured that there will be more masterpieces from Giovanni Bedin in the near future. All in all, I felt suitably inspired and excited by this new venture for the House of Worth.

HOUSE OF WORTH Worth Couture Lingerie ‘Inside Out Affair’ Collection Review

Written by June Chanpoomidole on Friday September 23rd, 2011 1:09 pm

Categories ,balconette, ,basque, ,Bra, ,Claire Kearns, ,Claridges Hotel, ,Claridge’s Hotel, ,couture, ,crinoline, ,Gareth Hopkins, ,Gemma Travis, ,Giovanni Bedin, ,House of Worth, ,illustrators, ,Inside Out Affair, ,Juliette Fazekas, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,Lianne Harrison, ,lingerie, ,London Fashion Week, ,Melissa Bell, ,Nici Harrison, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Ready-to-wear, ,RMG Public Relations, ,S/S 2012, ,Static exhibition, ,The Drawing Room, ,underwear