Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Toni & Guy – Hair Meets Wardrobe


Naomi Campbell, salve illustrated by Phoebe Kirk

So fashion week (unofficially) kicked off early this S/S 2012 season with a Thursday night show-cum-product launch from purveyors of the faukhawk, Toni & Guy. I had no idea what to expect from this. Well, clearly I imagined there’d be a fair few hair dos on display – but would it take the form of a normal runway show? What would the fashion be like? Would I leave desperate to dash to my nearest T&G salon? I was soon to find out.


Toni & Guy, illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Inside the uninspiring BFC tent within the awe-inspiring Somerset House, we were treated to champagne, Pimm’s and traumatic canapés that make it entirely impossible to look attractive whilst throwing them in your gob. I was starving though, so I did my best ‘I-don’t-even-care-about-looking-attractive’ face whilst hoovering them up. Inside the tent we were rewarded with pretty decent seats, an enormous goodie bag featuring the new Toni & Guy Hair Meets Wardrobe range, and a crisp A4 sheet detailing what was about to happen. I scanned down it and thought I read ‘with an introduction by Naomi Campbell’. I read through it again. I hadn’t been mistaken; ‘with an introduction by NAOMI CAMPBELL‘. There it was, in black and white. Really? The Naomi Campbell? Yikes.


Naomi Campbell, illustrated by Sally Jane Thompson

A scrum ensued when Olivia Palermo took her Frow seat right in front of us: flash after flash left a permanent glare on my eyeballs. She was joined by Matthew Williamson in a rather stylish hat, with yet more flashbulbs going off at record speed.


Olivia Palermo, illustrated by The Lovely Wars

The lights dimmed and an X-Factor-style voiceover requested we welcome NAOMI CAMPBELL. Not much of an ask, let’s face it. Out she sashayed to huge cheers, and I could actually feel one of my legs wobbling. I write the next sentence with caution and hide behind my screen to avoid any airborne mobile phones, but our Naomi isn’t the best public speaker. I can’t imagine she’d spent much time rehearsing, but she fluffed her way through it, referring to Hair Meets Wardrobe as ‘Meet the Wardrobe’, at which I chuckled. Having said that, a woman like Naomi could read the Yellow Pages aloud and I’d still be completely mesmerised.


All photography by Matt Bramford

On with the show, and a video popped up on the big screen showing some of nature’s finest matches: fish ‘n’ chips, gin and tonic and so on – I think they were getting at that hair and wardrobe are quiet important together – a concept not brand new to fashion. The show was then divided into four sections (the four components of the new Toni & Guy brand): classic, casual, glamour and creative.

Classic


Illustration by Gilly Rochester

The classic section featured 1960s-esque natural beauties with slick hair styles. Croydon facelifts were popular – a hairstyle that will never go out of fashion.

Casual
I loved the ‘casual’ section, and can’t wait to mess up my locks with the sea salt spray we were given. Sexy bedroom hair, that I’ve since seen on numerous catwalks, was presented in a variety of ways, from backcombed scruffy heaps piled atop models’ heads, to long natural styles with uneven plaits.

Glamour


Illustration by Gilly Rochester

T&G cranked up the glamour for what was by far my favourite portion of the show. 1920s tight waves walked alongside big, big backcombed locks and modern interpretations of the pompadour. Sexy, smokey eye make-up and flowing frocks brought the looks together perfectly.

Creative

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

This is praps what Toni&Guy are essentially known for – and I have to admit that I was expecting much more of this from the show. Y’know – the kind of hairstyle popular with Diesel-clad punters from Leeds. A couple of spiked coloured numbers felt a bit dated in the mix of all that glamour and sophistication, but a Louise Brooks-esque severe bob soon turned things around. A few cartoonish styles at the end brought a welcomed bit of fun.

Previous fashion editor of Tatler, Charlie Anderson, had styled the show and had married striking outfits with each of the hairstyles. it’s difficult to focus on hair alone when you’re used to watching models parade backwards and forwards, but the clothes (apart from the final pieces) were cool enough to bring the barnets to life without stealing the show. These were my final thoughts as another pap scrum formed where Naomi had taken her seat.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,BFC, ,Casual, ,Charlie Anderson, ,Classic, ,Creative, ,fashion, ,Fauxhawk, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Glamour, ,Hair, ,Hair Meets Wardrobe, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Brooks, ,Naomi Campbell, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Pimm’s, ,S/S 2012, ,Sally Jane Thompson, ,Somerset House, ,The X Factor Voice Over Man, ,Toni & Guy

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Toni & Guy – Hair Meets Wardrobe


Naomi Campbell, salve illustrated by Phoebe Kirk

So fashion week (unofficially) kicked off early this S/S 2012 season with a Thursday night show-cum-product launch from purveyors of the faukhawk, Toni & Guy. I had no idea what to expect from this. Well, clearly I imagined there’d be a fair few hair dos on display – but would it take the form of a normal runway show? What would the fashion be like? Would I leave desperate to dash to my nearest T&G salon? I was soon to find out.


Toni & Guy, illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Inside the uninspiring BFC tent within the awe-inspiring Somerset House, we were treated to champagne, Pimm’s and traumatic canapés that make it entirely impossible to look attractive whilst throwing them in your gob. I was starving though, so I did my best ‘I-don’t-even-care-about-looking-attractive’ face whilst hoovering them up. Inside the tent we were rewarded with pretty decent seats, an enormous goodie bag featuring the new Toni & Guy Hair Meets Wardrobe range, and a crisp A4 sheet detailing what was about to happen. I scanned down it and thought I read ‘with an introduction by Naomi Campbell’. I read through it again. I hadn’t been mistaken; ‘with an introduction by NAOMI CAMPBELL‘. There it was, in black and white. Really? The Naomi Campbell? Yikes.


Naomi Campbell, illustrated by Sally Jane Thompson

A scrum ensued when Olivia Palermo took her Frow seat right in front of us: flash after flash left a permanent glare on my eyeballs. She was joined by Matthew Williamson in a rather stylish hat, with yet more flashbulbs going off at record speed.


Olivia Palermo, illustrated by The Lovely Wars

The lights dimmed and an X-Factor-style voiceover requested we welcome NAOMI CAMPBELL. Not much of an ask, let’s face it. Out she sashayed to huge cheers, and I could actually feel one of my legs wobbling. I write the next sentence with caution and hide behind my screen to avoid any airborne mobile phones, but our Naomi isn’t the best public speaker. I can’t imagine she’d spent much time rehearsing, but she fluffed her way through it, referring to Hair Meets Wardrobe as ‘Meet the Wardrobe’, at which I chuckled. Having said that, a woman like Naomi could read the Yellow Pages aloud and I’d still be completely mesmerised.


All photography by Matt Bramford

On with the show, and a video popped up on the big screen showing some of nature’s finest matches: fish ‘n’ chips, gin and tonic and so on – I think they were getting at that hair and wardrobe are quiet important together – a concept not brand new to fashion. The show was then divided into four sections (the four components of the new Toni & Guy brand): classic, casual, glamour and creative.

Classic


Illustration by Gilly Rochester

The classic section featured 1960s-esque natural beauties with slick hair styles. Croydon facelifts were popular – a hairstyle that will never go out of fashion.

Casual
I loved the ‘casual’ section, and can’t wait to mess up my locks with the sea salt spray we were given. Sexy bedroom hair, that I’ve since seen on numerous catwalks, was presented in a variety of ways, from backcombed scruffy heaps piled atop models’ heads, to long natural styles with uneven plaits.

Glamour


Illustration by Gilly Rochester

T&G cranked up the glamour for what was by far my favourite portion of the show. 1920s tight waves walked alongside big, big backcombed locks and modern interpretations of the pompadour. Sexy, smokey eye make-up and flowing frocks brought the looks together perfectly.

Creative

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

This is praps what Toni&Guy are essentially known for – and I have to admit that I was expecting much more of this from the show. Y’know – the kind of hairstyle popular with Diesel-clad punters from Leeds. A couple of spiked coloured numbers felt a bit dated in the mix of all that glamour and sophistication, but a Louise Brooks-esque severe bob soon turned things around. A few cartoonish styles at the end brought a welcomed bit of fun.

Previous fashion editor of Tatler, Charlie Anderson, had styled the show and had married striking outfits with each of the hairstyles. it’s difficult to focus on hair alone when you’re used to watching models parade backwards and forwards, but the clothes (apart from the final pieces) were cool enough to bring the barnets to life without stealing the show. These were my final thoughts as another pap scrum formed where Naomi had taken her seat.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,BFC, ,Casual, ,Charlie Anderson, ,Classic, ,Creative, ,fashion, ,Fauxhawk, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Glamour, ,Hair, ,Hair Meets Wardrobe, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Brooks, ,Naomi Campbell, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Pimm’s, ,S/S 2012, ,Sally Jane Thompson, ,Somerset House, ,The X Factor Voice Over Man, ,Toni & Guy

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Amelia’s Magazine | Rufus Wainwright – All Days are Nights: Songs for Lulu – Album Review

The first time I encountered Rufus Wainwright was at the O2 Wireless Festival in Hyde Park five years ago after a friend had cajoled me into joining her for a spontaneous post-work “treat”. Wainwright was the supporting act for Keane (it gets better) and had been given a slot just after James Blunt (I told you).

In hindsight he seemed somewhat misplaced in the line-up with his less-than radio-friendly sound and his frankly astonishing talent. With his theatrical and flamboyant persona, issues-laden lyrics and unconventional sound, Wainwright was clearly an artist who divided audiences; you were either with him or you weren’t. I was firmly in the former category and have been ever since.

Six albums on since the launch of his career and a series of Judy Garland tribute concerts later, All Days are Nights: Songs for Lulu is Wainwright’s latest offering and his most moving work to date. The first record released since the death of his mother, folk singer-songwriter Kate McGarrigle, who died from a rare form of cancer on 18 January this year, it becomes apparent after the first listen that darkness is the album’s central theme.

All Days are Nights – whose ‘Lulu’ part of the title is inspired by the havoc-wreaking character played by Louise Brooks in the 1929 German silent movie Pandora’s Box – consists of nine tracks and in true I-am-a-high-brow-artiste Wainwright-style, three adaptations of Shakespeare’s sonnets also appear on the record, which he set to music for a theatrical production in Berlin in 2009. Unlike his previous work, which combines lush orchestrations and complex string arrangements, all of the opulence has been stripped away to a bare bones effect, allowing the spotlight to fall upon a single piano, dusted with Wainwright’s sumptuous vocals. It is a brave move, leaving yourself open to scrutiny if you’ve grown accustomed to the support of a full band and backing singers (who once included Joan Wasser of Joan As Police Woman and Antony Hegarty of Antony and the Johnsons). But then again, this isn’t Brendan Flowers having a go, it’s Rufus Wainwright.

From the opening-track, ‘Who are you New York?’, where Wainwright recounts an obsessive search for an unnamed object of desire against a backdrop of the famous city, to ‘So Sad With What I Have’, a more reflective, self-pitiful piece where he opines, “How could someone so bright love someone so blue?”, his bruised, drawn-out baritone and intricate, swirling piano arrangements dominate throughout.

In ‘Martha’, the conversational lyrics inspired by Wainwright’s sister, Martha, are set to twinkling piano which becomes increasingly erratic in parts where, for the first time, we discover that even the Wainwright duo experience the same occasional frustrations we have when it comes to our siblings – “It’s your brother calling, Martha please call me back…”

‘Give Me What I Want And Give It To Me Now’ lifts the mood of the album with its jaunty deliverance, gradually swelling into a more cabaret-style sound. ‘Les feux d’artifice t’appellent’ is the closing aria from Wainwright’s debut opera, Prima Donna, which is currently showing at Sadler’s Wells in London (12-17 April) to critical acclaim. The track is a decadent and dramatic piece, with a crescendo-style ending where Wainwright taps on the piano’s sounding board and runs his hands along its strings to mimic the sound of fireworks illuminating the Paris skyline.

The closing track, ‘Zebulon’, written while Wainwright’s mother was dying of cancer, washes into lush fields of melancholy, and is perhaps the most emotive track on the album. It takes on a haunting and lingering tone, where he reminisces on the happier times of his childhood but also voices his disillusion about the harsh realities of the world.

All Days are Nights is a complex record which may not cater to everyone’s tastes, but Wainwright’s ambitious work has never been produced for mass-market uptake. Some critics have cited his musical endeavors as inaccessible and pretentious; however, in an age where most musicians are into recycling and you feel like you’ve heard pretty much everything before, his work continues to remain inspired without being derivative.

Listening to the album is a voyeuristic experience as you cannot help but sense that its manifestation was a creative outlet for Wainwright during his darkest hours. The decision to fuse minimal, yet sophisticated, piano arrangements with pure, heartfelt vocals emphasises his solitude in the lead up to his mother’s death, exposing a more vulnerable side of him – rarely has he sounded so intimate, confessional or raw.

All Days are Nights is Wainwright’s most assured, imaginative and beautiful album to date, where he has managed to produce another bewitching set of songs through his own emotional turmoil.

Categories ,1929, ,album, ,All Days Are Nights, ,Antony and The Johnsons, ,Antony Hegarty, ,folk, ,Joan As Police Woman, ,Joan Wasser, ,Judy Garland, ,Kat Phan, ,Kate McGarrigle, ,Louise Brooks, ,Martha Wainwright, ,Pandora’s Box, ,review, ,Rufus Wainwright, ,Singer Songwriter, ,Songs For Lulu

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