Amelia’s Magazine | Charlie May: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Charlie May A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass.

There was plenty of buzz surrounding Charlie May‘s second catwalk show thanks to her status as a blogging fashion designer, so I wasn’t surprised to see many familiar faces so early on a Sunday morning outside the Ice Tank. Charlie is a designer of the minimalist ilk and she had chosen an apt venue to showcase her new collection: a photography studio with a white infinity curve against which the models paused for photographs.

Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Jane Young
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Jane Young.

The collection, which had been inspired by ice, rock and fire, began in crisp white: sheer polo necks worn beneath wide lapelled tailored wool coats, with pencil skirts and sheer black tights. A roll neck knit was worn under an ostrich skin biker jacket and there was a distinct 80s vibe to the oversized blazers. Red lips worked beautifully with a simple silk shift dress and an A-line maxi dress accessorised with a simple black clutch bag by Danielle Foster. Moving swiftly through a few black, wine and gunmetal grey garments we arrived at my favourite looks, a cherry red dress and skinny leg suit. Charlie May successfully mixed textures and tones to bring subtle interest to her minimalist aesthetic, and I’ll be intrigued to see what she comes up with next.

Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Charlie May AW13 by Isher Dhiman
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Charlie May, ,Chloe Douglass, ,Danielle Foster, ,Girl a la Mode, ,Ice Tank, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Jane Young, ,London Fashion Week, ,review

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ciel: meet ethical fashion designer Sarah Ratty

Ciel S/S 2011 by Jo Cheung
Ciel S/S 2011 by Jo Cheung.

Sarah Ratty set up the label Conscious Earthwear in the early 90’s before creating the Ciel brand in 2005, website like this no rx which we profiled in the print version of Amelia’s Magazine. She currently also works as a design consultant and advises the Soil Association on sustainable issues.

How do you design your garments?
Each collection has its roots in the way I have developed as an eco fashion designer over the last twenty years. I usually start with fabrics, ambulance then I think about what garment shapes will best fit into the current zeitgeist and I combine these with my own influences from contemporary art, order travel, history and nature. I use as many innovative approaches as I can in fabrication and cutting techniques, as well as using the naturally diverse fabrics from a range of indigenous locations, which are made and developed in situ.

What is the best way to design ethically?
Within eco design there is inevitably some compromise but I always do my best to find the best materials to achieve the desired outcome. I use fairtrade materials and organic fabrics from factories in Europe and South America, all of which comply with fair labour laws as set out by Labour Behind the Label. We use azo-free dyes, which do not use harmful metal mordants to fix the colour. Heavy metals are highly polluting and contribute to toxic soil runoff if not treated correctly. We have recently started to bring some production back to the UK and we conduct a lot of our work via Skype to reduce our carbon footprint…

Read the rest of this interview with Ciel in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,azo-free dyes, ,Carbon footprint, ,ciel, ,Conscious Earthwear, ,Design Consultant, ,Eco fashion, ,Ethical Fashion, ,fairtrade, ,Jo Cheung, ,Labour behind the Label, ,organic, ,Sarah Ratty, ,Skype, ,Soil Association

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Amelia’s Magazine | Claudia Ligari and Eleanor Amoroso: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Presentation Review

I was invited to do live illustrations at the Lewis and Leigh PR event on Friday, for the designers Claudia Ligari and Eleanor Amoroso.

claudia ligari hood - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine

In typical fashion week style it was chaos up to the last minute as the venue, Beach Blanket Babylon in Shoreditch, had been double booked and the show ended up in what was essentially a storage room. Even so, they did a good enough job of dressing it to make it look intentionally basic, and I think the raw whiteness of it suited the work. Once I had set up my paints I watched Eleanor Amoroso set to work with hair straighteners on the long sinuous tassels that hang from her macramé pieces.

eleanor amoroso hair straightenering her collection - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine
It was a shame not to see Eleanor Amoroso‘s garments on models, as the long free flowing cords are clearly made to be seen in movement. Instead I have tried to capture that shape and movement in my illustrations.

eleanor amoroso 2 - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine

eleanor amoroso - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine

Both the designers worked on a big and small scale, with Eleanor Amoroso presenting full length and more minimal versions (which would work well as accessories) of her intricately knotted black and white pieces. She has somewhat downscaled from more epic pieces previously featured on Amelia’s Magazine, probably for sensible commercial reasons.

claudia ligari models - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine
Claudia Ligari’s collection

claudia ligari wearing herself - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine

Claudia Ligari, on the other hand, showed a strong sensitivity for the power of simple shapes in both her garments and her jewellery collection. The strength of the lines in her work were the opposite of her physical presence, as I drew her (‘wearing herself’), she was constantly in motion, catching the light on the leather panels of her dress. She also showed her work in the exhibition at Fashion Scout.

claudia ligari - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine
In general I preferred Claudia Ligari‘s more complex garments over the austere leather pieces. But then I’m not usually a fan of clean as an aesthetic on it’s own: the camel coat illustrated was getting a lot of love. I’d be interested to see the two designers’ work worn together actually, as I think the intricacy of the macramé thread work against the stark panels of leather could work well.

claudia ligari camel - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine
I’m a big fan of spending an evening this way. Not only did I get to draw all night, whilst drinking free drinks and meeting interesting people, but I now have ready to go illustrations for this article, saving me time to do other London Fashion Week journalism. Hooray.

eleanor amoroso and interesting people  - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine
Beth Buxton on the left, some interesting looking fashion people, and Eleanor Amoroso holding her portrait.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Beach Blanket Babylon, ,Beth Buxton, ,claudia ligari, ,Eleanor Amoroso, ,fashion, ,illustration, ,Lewis and Leigh PR, ,live illustration, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Macrame, ,review

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Amelia’s Magazine | Designer Spotlight: Brooke Roberts- Part One

Rob-Hopkins
Illustration courtesy of Valerie Pezeron

Nothing satiates a foodie quite like the first forkful of their best-loved grub, try but reading about it comes close. For those gastronomes who believe that food’s role reaches far beyond basically fuelling our existence – that it’s integral to community bonds, economies of every scale and our relationships with our environment, as well as our physical wellbeing – the new book from Tamzin Pinkerton and Rob Hopkins (yes, he of Transition Culture fame) will have you salivating over the nosh-related possibilities that a little ambition, curiosity and organisation can create close to home.‘Local Food: How to Make it Happen in Your Community’ (Transition Books) shadows Hopkins’ inspiring ‘Transition Handbook’, training the spotlight on the integral subject of our food and what we can do to go back to the literal roots of the good life – and stay there. While written against the unnerving but inescapable global backdrop of peak oil, food security and climate change crises, ‘Local Food’ incites excitement about the potential of a carefully considered future, both long and short term, rather than fear of a hopeless one. With the onus on the ‘local’ part of its title, the book encourages a proactive, fun approach to sustainability by profiling a huge and diverse range of CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) initiatives based all over the world.

 

LOCAL_FOOD_cover 
Image courtesy of Transition Culture

“The kind of community engagement facilitated by CSAs generates and harnesses passionate enthusiasm among the people who participate in it,” write Pinkerton and Hopkins, “and this is due, in no small part, to the sheer thrill that comes from being able to shape and engage with the food system that feeds us.” From legitimate legume growers to dig-by-night guerrilla gardeners, the teams and organisations featured in ‘Local Food’ not only explain their motivations for picking up tools, but reveal the thrills, difficulties, surprises and benefits that they have faced since they did.

 Hopkinspic
Image courtesy of Stephen Prior

Unsurprisingly, the majority of these people are driven by a passion for good food, and a respect for and desire to greater understand the environment that provides it. However deeply they’re involved in the food production within their community – be it founding community gardens or filling their fridges with farmers’ market fodder – the individuals highlighted in ‘Local Food’ prove how attainable a sustainable lifestyle is, whether you want to get muddy or not. And, if you do want to have direct involvement in and influence over what ends up on your plate, there’s even a contacts section to introduce you to your nearest initiatives. As the authors put so succinctly, “We can have our affordable, local, organic cake, and eat it too”.
3Zorb catsuit in exclusive silk/ glassino jacquard knit and silver and red gold stacked skull rings and spinning skull slice ring.

Last week I was lucky enough to meet a fashion designer whom I would describe as one of the most innovative, sildenafil visionary and hard working designers of the moment; Brooke Roberts. Brooke’s self named women’s wear label is heavily influenced by radiology and juxtaposes the worlds of science and fashion to great technical effect. I caught up with Brooke in her Hackney based studio to find out more….

PB242089Brooke Roberts SS10 collection, taken in designer’s studio.

Where were you born and raised?
I grew up in rural Australia and went to university in Sydney and at that point I was studying to become a radiographer as I loved science and the anatomy. Whilst I was there I tried a bit of styling and then moved to London. I temped for a while then ended up going to LCF and Central St. Martin’s after deciding I wanted to be a tailor.

How long ago did you graduate?

It feels like decades ago but I finished at Central St. martin’s at the end of 2005.

15Zagna dress in skull python printed georgette and ortho suede belt.

PB242086Close-up of skull python printed georgette.

What have you been up to since graduating?
In four years I’ve been juggling everything. I’m still working as a radiographer and I’ve been doing that all the way through even when I was studying. At the same time I’ve worked with people like Giles Deacon and Louise Goldin. I’ve also been keeping busy doing some freelance bits here and there, the most recent of which was a job for Daphne Guinness with Jens Laugesen. I’ve been travelling a lot as well working at factories in Italy and developing links in India, just trying to immerse myself in the industry and developing contacts. In the last year specifically I’ve been focusing on trying to build my label.

4Zagna dress in printed waffle georgette with embroidered ortho trim and ortho georgette belt.

How does your job as a radiographer influence your designs?
You can’t really separate the two because everything I do in terms of my design links directly back to my work as a radiographer. I’m very scientifically minded and I think what I do looks more at the technology side of science. From technique to materials to imagery it all goes full circle. All the artwork, the shapes the way I cut it all relates to it. It’s different because it’s not purely aesthetic and I really like to think about function. When I design I think about how it’s going to be cut and put together even down to which seams I’m going to use which is why I thought about becoming a tailor.  Stay tuned for the second installment…

Categories ,Brooke Roberts, ,Central St Martins, ,Daphne Guinness, ,Designer Spotlight, ,Giles Deacon, ,Jens Laugesen, ,London College of Fashion, ,Louise Goldin

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Amelia’s Magazine | EFF Innovation Awards

Featuring competitions in the already overly competitive world that is Art may seem somewhat crude to say the least. But in fact it’s through these well supported and sponsored prizes that new and underexposed artists and creative mediums gain a platform and a voice, information pills page and a fairly fair and just route for career progression out of the studios and into the spotlight. It’s also a darn good excuse to curate a fine exhibition of very talented folk, hospital and in a collaborative sense get together with a common thread, clinic be it the format, subject matter or genre, and share opinions, ideas and approaches. I call to the stand Foto8 and their annual Photographic Prize an exhibition of which opens with a right knees up of a party this weekend in London.

FOTO8%202brueggermann.jpg

Joerg Brueggermann (2009 Entry)

Foto8, in their own words, is ‘a space to share, comment and debate photography. The site exists to bridge the divide between photographers, authors and their audience through interactive displays and a constant stream of new works and resources’. Based on the belief that documentary photography has a vital role to play in contemporary society, Foto8′s ethos firmly pushes the medium as a valued tool for communication and self education about the world around us and the lesser understood worlds of others.

FOTO8%204traylor.png

Abbie Traylor-Smith (2009 Entry)

The London based website has regular postings of reviews, commentaries, interviews and picture stories as well as photographic events and news items, and serves as an outlet for the biannually published 8 magazine, which can be previewed, ordered and subscribed to from there. Now up to issue 25 the magazine blurs and tests the boundaries between photography, journalism and art and represents ‘the very best in design and print, following a graphic format that uses the medium of the printed page to its fullest.’

FOTO8%203hackman.jpg

Robert Hackman (2009 Entry)

The Gallery that will house this spectacular show was established by director of Foto8 Jon Levy along with Adrian Evans, the director of Panos Pictures, and celebrates it’s fourth birthday this year. HOST is dedicated to the specialised promotion and exploration of photojournalism and documentary photography, ‘from classical black and white reportage to contemporary mixed media’. They pioneer both new and traditional methods of manipulating the gallery setting with innovation and passion. The gallery proudly boasts a highly-respected exhibition schedule, complimented by an on-going program of face-to-face encounters with photography and film, including screenings, talks and regular book club meetings.

FOTO8%203linburg.jpg

Clemence de Limburg (2009 Entry)

From around 2300 images submitted from 44 different countries from as far afield as Thailand and Turkey, just over 100 carefully selected images will make up the final display at this year’s Foto 8 Summer Show at London’s HOST Gallery. As well as each entry appearing in the show’s published book, each photograph will be for sale to the public from the opening night and throughout the exhibition, and of course each and every exhibit will be in with the chance to win either the ‘Best in Show’ category or the ‘People’s Choice’, both highly sort after and respected prizes in the industry.

foto8%207wallace.jpg

Dougie Wallace (2008 Winner of ‘Best in Show’)

foto8%208castagnoli.jpg

Guido Castagnoli (2008 Winner of ‘People’s Choice’)

Whereas the Best in Show is awarded by an elite team of experts in the field, including The Times’ Director of Photography Graham Wood and the V&A’s Head of Images Andrea Stern, and entails a £1500 reward, the People’s Choice will be determined by public visitors to the show and in many respects is a more coveted title, given that each exhibitor’s work must speak to those with perhaps a less trained eye for artistic and technical merit, and must rely on more personal and emotional responses from the everyday spectator.

FOTO8%206pugliese.jpg

Domenico Pugliese (2009 Entry)

The brief for prospective entrants was simple. They seek images that challenge and engage, convey stories and raise questions. They state that they ‘encourage free expression’ and ‘new ways of seeing and telling’, also adding that they value photography ‘that conveys feeling as much as fact.’ The entry requirements allow for up to three submitted images per person, and the submissions look set to be as diverse and varied as 2008′s collections were.

rachel%20photo.jpg

Rachel Bevis (2009 Entry)

Being the biased art appreciators that we are, there is already a winner of an entry in our opinion, an image that stands out for us and will be certainly receiving the ‘Amelia’s Choice’ award at the opening on Friday evening. ‘Marie’ by semi-professional London based photographer Rachel Bevis commands our attention and holds our gaze. At first seeming to be a mono-chrome image of a lone figure at night, on second appreciation is actually a wintery street scene in which a female is immersed in falling snow. Mysterious, evocative and powerful this photograph is one we cannot tire of looking at. Best of luck Miss Bevis.

Who will you be exercising your democratic rights and voting for?

Foto8 Summer Show
HOST Gallery
1 Honduras Street
London, EC1Y 0TH

24th July: Opening Night Party
6:30pm – 11:30pm

Tickets: £5 in advance, £8 on the door
Tickets available to buy here

24th July – 5th September
Opening times:
Mon-Fri 10am-6pm
Sat 11am-4pm

FOTO8%205tong.jpg

Kurt Tong (2009 Entry)
One of the organisations we’ve been following of late at Amelia’s Magazine is the Ethical Fashion Forum. Springing up in 2004 following the concerns made famous in the international press during the 1990s – sweatshop working, information pills terrible wages and mass environmental damage – a group of designers decided to do something about it by raising awareness. Liasing with over 400 designers, fashion brands and other fashion businesses, the EFF connects people who want to promote a sustainable future for the fashion industry; this includes creating safe working environments and increasing wages in oft-exploited third world countries, as well as encouraging minimal environmental damage. Closely tied to this venture is the Fair Trade Foundation – pinpointing exactly how topical a sustainable fashion industry has become in recent years alongside the massive interest in Fair Trade products.

Earlier in the year EFF launched it’s biannual “Innovation” competition for designers, the first being PURE, rewarding and recognising those who have shown innovation (!) and initiative regarding the greater good of the fashion world. The shortlist of competitors was announced last month, and gave publicity to an assortment of passionate designers who are keen to support a sustainable and ethical fashion future through their business strategies and design work. The competition hopes to raise awareness of the EFF’s goals and views by rewarding those who have shown similar ethical principles to itself, whilst at the same time inspiring this generation of designers to work together for a better future. The overused cliché of “green is the new black” really seems to be ringing true at EFF!

This years shortlist of 12 included designers from all over the world, all excited to promote the EFF message; those from or working in South Africa, Malawi, India, China and North America were all on show, with a good percentage of designers working in poverty-stricken Third World countries. The designers largely sourced their materials from traditional industries all over the world, and particularly in struggling areas, as shown by this quick survey of the territories they work within. Others are supporting local industries within the UK, such as crofting in the Scottish Highlands. Each were judged on their collection’s overall design and finish, their brand ethics, and their sale-ability, by a panel including Anna Orsini, head of London Fashion Week, Donna Wallace of ELLE magazine, alongside other senior fashion journalists and lecturers.

So who came up trumps in the end? Being selected to show at the PURE trade show, the winners were Cape Town brand Lalesso, and MIA, another African working in Malawi. Lalesso was a clear box-ticker: initially set up to provide a “socially responsible method of manufacturing”.

Lalesso_image_1.jpg

Lalesso_image_2.jpg

Designing clothes based on East African traditions and current trends, the label aids struggling unemployment by providing well-paid work for several different groups, from the unskilled ‘beach boys’ to the traditionally skilled Masaai tradesmen. The clothes are vibrant, fun and youthful, including patterned prom dresses and casual beach wear, showcasing typical laidback African style tailored for a fashion-conscious audience who care.

MIA was an equally obvious winner. Recycling vintage pieces is no new idea; however MIA has taken this to new lengths with her remade clothing. Using second- hand streetwear combined with traditional Malawian dress, she has created designs that are thoroughly modern, embracing the current fascination with all things retro and uniquely individual.

MIA_image_2.jpg

MIA’s message is to embrace our wardrobes and recycle them in order to prevent such widespread textile waste in the way that we recycle food packaging and other products in the new millennium. She’s another designer interested in the capacities of upcycled clothing, and is keen to promote change with her range of smock style mini dresses combining different materials in their zig-zag skirts.

Some of the other candidates we were keen on included Henrietta Ludgate, a Central Saint Martins graduate and Scottish designer hailing from the Highlands.

henrietta-ludgate-cigar-dre.jpg

Embracing her Highland roots, this designer used crofting techniques in her collections in a way that has not been seen in recent years, supporting local industries with her work. Crofting involves reusing excess waste material from mills as part of a small community of workers who all support each other.

A similar idea can be seen with Outsider, who support the oft-abused textile industries in China and India through sourcing organic fabrics and providing fair labour conditions and wages, true to the EFF message. Stating that “we believe ethical fashion should just look like fashion” these designers are certainly up there with the best of the bunch.

OUTSIDERlowres.jpg

Their latest collection featured reworked classic shapes with pleat detailing and simple lines, all in sophisticated black, with the main focus of the design work being on the use of sustainable fabrics to inspire confidence in what we’re wearing and how it is sustaining the fashion industry globally.

Coming up in September will be the Esethetica awards when more winners will be announced – what did you make of the shortlist and did you agree with the winners? Let us know!

Categories ,Crofting, ,Global Fashion, ,Streetwear, ,Sustainable Fashion, ,Traditional, ,Vintage

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Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration Launch Party Review: by Amelia

Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), side effects store so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, link so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, stuff when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), abortion so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), price so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, ailment so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), viagra approved so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
The Pipettes by Emma Block
The Pipettes by Emma Block.

It’s been a long run up to the official launch of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration… but on Friday it was finally party time at 123 Bethnal Green Road.

ACOFI launch Lily Vanilli cake
Bespoke Lily Vanilli cakes for the launch.

My day began with a speedy cycle up to get my hair *done* at Shine on the Green up in Stoke Newington, medications possibly not foreseeing the consequences of cycling back again against a strong wind. In the end my new glossy look held up admirably well, troche and was admired by everyone.

ACOFI launch Jan 11 Shine on Green
Getting my hair *done* at Shine on the Green.

Matt Bramford and Sally Mumby-Croft then joined me to help lug boxes of goodie bag gifts from my house over to 123 Bethnal Green Road – the delay ensuring the miraculous delivery of my beautiful Joanna Cave earrings which made it just in time from Greece.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Matt Bramford
Matt carrying boxes.

By this time we were running seriously behind, pharm so goodie bag stuffing took on a somewhat manic quality. Luckily Lucy and Nicholas soon joined us from Forward PR, followed by the lovely Heather and Felicity of Dr.Hauschka. Thank god I didn’t try to stuff the goodie bags at home by myself.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-packing bags
Packing the goodie bags.

Felicity whisked me upstairs to apply my Dr.Hauschka make up in super speedy style (why were make up artists never this fast when I did fashion shoots?!) and I emerged looking super polished and sleek. Perfect. I totally attribute all the compliments I received on the night to the skills of Shine on the Green and Dr.Hauschka. Now if only I could achieve the same effect by myself! The next day my boyfriend commented that I looked like a scarecrow once again. Sigh. Now I know why famous people depend so much on their teams of stylists.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Dr.Hauschka makeup
Felicity from Dr.Hauschka applies my makeup.

We finished with minutes to spare and I dashed downstairs to find already in place my crew of eager illustrators, Alexandra with her Pukka tea goodness… and the glorious pearlescent handiwork of Lily Vanilli perfectly arranged in the central archway just as the guests started to turn up. By this stage I realised I hadn’t eaten anything since my 7am breakfast of porridge, on which I blame the development of a strange form of reverse word Tourettes (I think Matt Bramford may mention one classic moment in his blog). It’s a miracle I made any sense in interviews.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Lily Vanilli
A close up of the fabulous Lily Vanilli concoction.

Laurel from i-D was one of the first to arrive and between 3-7pm the cosy Bunker Cafe was a whirlwind of activity.

Laurel Harple of i-D by Antonia Parker
Laurel Harple of i-D by Antonia Parker.

Everyone admired my lilac Beautiful Soul cape, Joanna Cave earrings and Nina Dolcetti shoes… which were exceedingly comfortable as promised by the designer Elisalex.

Jenny Robins creates a live sketch
Jenny Robins creates a live sketch.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Andrea Peterson
Andrea Peterson producing a live sketch. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Andrea Peterson Nyla
Andrea’s finished illustration of Nyla from Ethical Heaven.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Michelle Urvall Nyren & AbbyWright
Illustrators Michelle Urvall Nyren and Abby Wright. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

I was thrilled that so many people came – and it was wonderful to chat to so many bloggers that I’ve only met in the online world and then watch them being illustrated in a variety of utterly unique styles.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Gabby Young&Andrea Peterson
Gabby Young popped in to say hello!

Guests also received a relaxing hand massage the Dr.Hauschka way thanks to Felicity. The piles of Lily Vanilli mini scones and brownies quickly vanished, washed down with Pukka tea served in vintage teacups courtesy of 123 Bethnal Green Road.

ACOFI launch-Laurel Harple-Dr.Hauschka, Laurel i-D
Laurel Harple receives a Dr.Hauschka hand massage.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Susie Bubble
Susie Bubble. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Prince Cassius
Prince Cassius. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Jessica Bumpus, Amelia, Rebekah Roy
With Jessica Bumpus of Vogue and stylist Rebekah Roy. Photography by Matt Bramford.

By 7pm people started to arrive for the evening party and I realised that my wobbling had less to do with my Nina Dolcetti platforms and more to do with my lack of blood sugar. But then Jessica Bumpus from Vogue arrived and the adrenalin must have kicked in because I carried on straight through the evening without food, drink, or even a pee.

Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Artist Andrea
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Andrea Peterson.

ACOFI launch-Amelia Gregory-6 Day Riot
6 Day Riot.

Upstairs 6 Day Riot kick started the night’s proceedings with a set of rollicking tunes, singer Tamara easily charming the room and converting a whole new army of fans.

ACOFI launch-Max Petrossi-The Pipettes
The Pipettes. Photography by Max Petrossi.

Then lovely Pipettes Gwenno and Ani Saunders took to the decks in their inimitable polka dot outfits and got everyone dancing, lubricated by oodles of delicious Adnams beers and Vodka O.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Laura ForwardPR
Laura of Forward PR was a star behind the bar.

Our bar was woefully understaffed (my fault entirely) and I thought for a moment that I would have to step in and help out, but in the end Nicholas and Laura of Forward PR managed brilliantly and kept up the energy with lots of dance moves: much admiration and thanks. By the end of the night I hear that even The Pipettes were doing a stint behind the bar. Community effort, now that’s what I like!

ACOFI launch-Max Petrossi-Ballad Of and party
Ballad Of and other guests. Photography by Max Petrossi.

Downstairs Forward PR‘s Francesca proved an amazing saleswoman, shifting loads of books in my specially made fabric goodie bags containing a bespoke Moleskine notebook, my special Tatty Devine Cutlass Necklace in a new colourway, Dr.Hauschka goodies aplenty, Pukka teabags, a reclaimed leather heart keyring from 123, a copy of the last ever issue of Amelia’s Magazine in print and a stack of limited edition postcards. Thankyou so much everyone who bought a book – I really really appreciate it.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-goodie bags
The huge pile of goodie bags.

I also got to cut the enormous pink flowery centrepiece by Lily Vanilli, which, being double tiered, did indeed look like a totally bonkers wedding cake. Harriet of Tatty Devine then did sterling business cutting it up and handing out the delicious white chocolate fluffy concoction to appreciative guests.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Amelia Gregory
Cutting the cake. Photography by Matt Bramford.

MattBramford_ACOFI_PrickYrFinger,Amelia,TattyDevine
With my ladies Rachael and Louise from Prick Your Finger and Harriet and Rosie of Tatty Devine.

Towards the end of the night my old friend Will of the Mystery Jets arrived and put in a stonking last set, accompanied on the decks by his beautiful female friends. And the Robots in Disguise put in a fashionably late appearance.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Will Mystery jets
Will of the Mystery Jets with his friends.

Robots in Disguise with Amelia
Robots in Disguise were in my first ever Amelia’s Magazine. They’re ace. Photography by Matt Bramford.

Many thanks to everyone who helped out on the night, especially my star contributors Matt and Sally and of course the wonderful Courtney and her team from Forward PR: Laura, Francesca and Nicholas. And huge thanks to Ross and Michelle of 123 Bethnal Green Road for hosting such a memorable party, the illustrators who helped out, Liz Johnson-Artur and Max Petrossi for taking photos, Beautiful Soul, Nina Dolcetti and Joanna Cave for their wonderful designs and 6 Day Riot, The Pipettes and Will for entertaining my guests. More massive thanks to my partners – 123, Tatty Devine, Moleskine, Dr.Hauschka, Lily Vanilli, Pukka Teas, Adnams and Vodka O – for ensuring a truly memorable event.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Lily Vanilli cake
Decimating the cake.

And of course I can’t leave out a big thanks (I’m running out of large adjectives here) to all my guests, especially all of those who bought the book and have written such a wealth of amazing blog posts about the event. I am so sorry I didn’t get to meet everyone, but thankyou thankyou thankyou for supporting my ACOFI adventure xxx

ACOFI launch Jan 11-clear up
Cleaning up the next day: teacups and limes. Just about sums it up!

If you didn’t get a chance to do so at the launch do remember to get along and check out the Eco Pop Up shop instore at 123 for two weeks from the 28th January. It features many of the fabulous ethical designers from my book. Look out for lots of blogs featuring illustrations from the event… coming up shortly. And you can buy the book online on my website with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Don’t forget to also check out the Skype video interviews with featured illustrators in the book over on my Amelia’s House youtube channel.

Categories ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,6 Day Riot, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Ani Saunders, ,Antonia Parker, ,Beautiful Soul, ,Bunker Cafe, ,Courtney Blackman, ,Dr.Hauschka, ,Eco fashion, ,Emma Block, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Ethical Heaven, ,gabby young, ,Gwenno Saunders, ,i-D, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Joanna Cave, ,Laurel Harple, ,Liz Johnson-Artur, ,Matt Bramford, ,Max Petrossi, ,Moleskine, ,Mystery Jets, ,Nina Dolcetti, ,Nyla, ,Prick your Finger, ,Prince Cassius, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Robots in Disguise, ,Scout Hut, ,Shine on the Green, ,The Pipettes, ,vogue

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Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration Launch Party Review: by Amelia

Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), side effects store so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, link so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, stuff when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), abortion so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), price so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, ailment so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), viagra approved so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
The Pipettes by Emma Block
The Pipettes by Emma Block.

It’s been a long run up to the official launch of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration… but on Friday it was finally party time at 123 Bethnal Green Road.

ACOFI launch Lily Vanilli cake
Bespoke Lily Vanilli cakes for the launch.

My day began with a speedy cycle up to get my hair *done* at Shine on the Green up in Stoke Newington, medications possibly not foreseeing the consequences of cycling back again against a strong wind. In the end my new glossy look held up admirably well, troche and was admired by everyone.

ACOFI launch Jan 11 Shine on Green
Getting my hair *done* at Shine on the Green.

Matt Bramford and Sally Mumby-Croft then joined me to help lug boxes of goodie bag gifts from my house over to 123 Bethnal Green Road – the delay ensuring the miraculous delivery of my beautiful Joanna Cave earrings which made it just in time from Greece.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Matt Bramford
Matt carrying boxes.

By this time we were running seriously behind, pharm so goodie bag stuffing took on a somewhat manic quality. Luckily Lucy and Nicholas soon joined us from Forward PR, followed by the lovely Heather and Felicity of Dr.Hauschka. Thank god I didn’t try to stuff the goodie bags at home by myself.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-packing bags
Packing the goodie bags.

Felicity whisked me upstairs to apply my Dr.Hauschka make up in super speedy style (why were make up artists never this fast when I did fashion shoots?!) and I emerged looking super polished and sleek. Perfect. I totally attribute all the compliments I received on the night to the skills of Shine on the Green and Dr.Hauschka. Now if only I could achieve the same effect by myself! The next day my boyfriend commented that I looked like a scarecrow once again. Sigh. Now I know why famous people depend so much on their teams of stylists.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Dr.Hauschka makeup
Felicity from Dr.Hauschka applies my makeup.

We finished with minutes to spare and I dashed downstairs to find already in place my crew of eager illustrators, Alexandra with her Pukka tea goodness… and the glorious pearlescent handiwork of Lily Vanilli perfectly arranged in the central archway just as the guests started to turn up. By this stage I realised I hadn’t eaten anything since my 7am breakfast of porridge, on which I blame the development of a strange form of reverse word Tourettes (I think Matt Bramford may mention one classic moment in his blog). It’s a miracle I made any sense in interviews.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Lily Vanilli
A close up of the fabulous Lily Vanilli concoction.

Laurel from i-D was one of the first to arrive and between 3-7pm the cosy Bunker Cafe was a whirlwind of activity.

Laurel Harple of i-D by Antonia Parker
Laurel Harple of i-D by Antonia Parker.

Everyone admired my lilac Beautiful Soul cape, Joanna Cave earrings and Nina Dolcetti shoes… which were exceedingly comfortable as promised by the designer Elisalex.

Jenny Robins creates a live sketch
Jenny Robins creates a live sketch.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Andrea Peterson
Andrea Peterson producing a live sketch. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Andrea Peterson Nyla
Andrea’s finished illustration of Nyla from Ethical Heaven.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Michelle Urvall Nyren & AbbyWright
Illustrators Michelle Urvall Nyren and Abby Wright. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

I was thrilled that so many people came – and it was wonderful to chat to so many bloggers that I’ve only met in the online world and then watch them being illustrated in a variety of utterly unique styles.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Gabby Young&Andrea Peterson
Gabby Young popped in to say hello!

Guests also received a relaxing hand massage the Dr.Hauschka way thanks to Felicity. The piles of Lily Vanilli mini scones and brownies quickly vanished, washed down with Pukka tea served in vintage teacups courtesy of 123 Bethnal Green Road.

ACOFI launch-Laurel Harple-Dr.Hauschka, Laurel i-D
Laurel Harple receives a Dr.Hauschka hand massage.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Susie Bubble
Susie Bubble. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Prince Cassius
Prince Cassius. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Jessica Bumpus, Amelia, Rebekah Roy
With Jessica Bumpus of Vogue and stylist Rebekah Roy. Photography by Matt Bramford.

By 7pm people started to arrive for the evening party and I realised that my wobbling had less to do with my Nina Dolcetti platforms and more to do with my lack of blood sugar. But then Jessica Bumpus from Vogue arrived and the adrenalin must have kicked in because I carried on straight through the evening without food, drink, or even a pee.

Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Artist Andrea
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Andrea Peterson.

ACOFI launch-Amelia Gregory-6 Day Riot
6 Day Riot.

Upstairs 6 Day Riot kick started the night’s proceedings with a set of rollicking tunes, singer Tamara easily charming the room and converting a whole new army of fans.

ACOFI launch-Max Petrossi-The Pipettes
The Pipettes. Photography by Max Petrossi.

Then lovely Pipettes Gwenno and Ani Saunders took to the decks in their inimitable polka dot outfits and got everyone dancing, lubricated by oodles of delicious Adnams beers and Vodka O.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Laura ForwardPR
Laura of Forward PR was a star behind the bar.

Our bar was woefully understaffed (my fault entirely) and I thought for a moment that I would have to step in and help out, but in the end Nicholas and Laura of Forward PR managed brilliantly and kept up the energy with lots of dance moves: much admiration and thanks. By the end of the night I hear that even The Pipettes were doing a stint behind the bar. Community effort, now that’s what I like!

ACOFI launch-Max Petrossi-Ballad Of and party
Ballad Of and other guests. Photography by Max Petrossi.

Downstairs Forward PR‘s Francesca proved an amazing saleswoman, shifting loads of books in my specially made fabric goodie bags containing a bespoke Moleskine notebook, my special Tatty Devine Cutlass Necklace in a new colourway, Dr.Hauschka goodies aplenty, Pukka teabags, a reclaimed leather heart keyring from 123, a copy of the last ever issue of Amelia’s Magazine in print and a stack of limited edition postcards. Thankyou so much everyone who bought a book – I really really appreciate it.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-goodie bags
The huge pile of goodie bags.

I also got to cut the enormous pink flowery centrepiece by Lily Vanilli, which, being double tiered, did indeed look like a totally bonkers wedding cake. Harriet of Tatty Devine then did sterling business cutting it up and handing out the delicious white chocolate fluffy concoction to appreciative guests.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Amelia Gregory
Cutting the cake. Photography by Matt Bramford.

MattBramford_ACOFI_PrickYrFinger,Amelia,TattyDevine
With my ladies Rachael and Louise from Prick Your Finger and Harriet and Rosie of Tatty Devine.

Towards the end of the night my old friend Will of the Mystery Jets arrived and put in a stonking last set, accompanied on the decks by his beautiful female friends. And the Robots in Disguise put in a fashionably late appearance.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Will Mystery jets
Will of the Mystery Jets with his friends.

Robots in Disguise with Amelia
Robots in Disguise were in my first ever Amelia’s Magazine. They’re ace. Photography by Matt Bramford.

Many thanks to everyone who helped out on the night, especially my star contributors Matt and Sally and of course the wonderful Courtney and her team from Forward PR: Laura, Francesca and Nicholas. And huge thanks to Ross and Michelle of 123 Bethnal Green Road for hosting such a memorable party, the illustrators who helped out, Liz Johnson-Artur and Max Petrossi for taking photos, Beautiful Soul, Nina Dolcetti and Joanna Cave for their wonderful designs and 6 Day Riot, The Pipettes and Will for entertaining my guests. More massive thanks to my partners – 123, Tatty Devine, Moleskine, Dr.Hauschka, Lily Vanilli, Pukka Teas, Adnams and Vodka O – for ensuring a truly memorable event.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Lily Vanilli cake
Decimating the cake.

And of course I can’t leave out a big thanks (I’m running out of large adjectives here) to all my guests, especially all of those who bought the book and have written such a wealth of amazing blog posts about the event. I am so sorry I didn’t get to meet everyone, but thankyou thankyou thankyou for supporting my ACOFI adventure xxx

ACOFI launch Jan 11-clear up
Cleaning up the next day: teacups and limes. Just about sums it up!

If you didn’t get a chance to do so at the launch do remember to get along and check out the Eco Pop Up shop instore at 123 for two weeks from the 28th January. It features many of the fabulous ethical designers from my book. Look out for lots of blogs featuring illustrations from the event… coming up shortly. And you can buy the book online on my website with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Don’t forget to also check out the Skype video interviews with featured illustrators in the book over on my Amelia’s House youtube channel.

Categories ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,6 Day Riot, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Ani Saunders, ,Antonia Parker, ,Beautiful Soul, ,Bunker Cafe, ,Courtney Blackman, ,Dr.Hauschka, ,Eco fashion, ,Emma Block, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Ethical Heaven, ,gabby young, ,Gwenno Saunders, ,i-D, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Joanna Cave, ,Laurel Harple, ,Liz Johnson-Artur, ,Matt Bramford, ,Max Petrossi, ,Moleskine, ,Mystery Jets, ,Nina Dolcetti, ,Nyla, ,Prick your Finger, ,Prince Cassius, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Robots in Disguise, ,Scout Hut, ,Shine on the Green, ,The Pipettes, ,vogue

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Ethical Fashion Designers Makepiece


Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

While Spring turns to Summer, viagra dosage London Fashion Week AW10 may fade in our memories, viagra dosage but the designers that drew us in certainly won’t. One such designer that caught my eye at the Esthetica exhibition was ‘Makepiece’. The concept and techniques used were so intriguing that we couldn’t resist interviewing the owner, try Beate Kubitz.

 Why did you choose to focus on eco-fashion? Why is it so important to you? 
Clothes are important to me.  I think what you’re wearing tells other people a lot about you, who you are and how you feel about yourself.  I don’t like the idea that something that makes me look great was complicit in damaging the environment or the people who made it.  You don’t want your favourite t-shirt to be dripping with pesticides, cause a water shortage or to be sewn up in a sweat shop.  But unless you’re very careful, it might be. 
There’s something wrong with the latest trend ‘buy, wear, chuck’ mentality – it’s a bit neurotic and it’s definitely bad for the planet.  We try and make clothes that are significant to the women that wear them and that they can feel really good about. 

How did the Makepiece brand begin?  
I’ve been keeping sheep for seven years now, met Nicola six years ago and Makepiece is now five. 
We’re located in Todmorden, a small town in the Pennines. It’s beautiful and has a long history of wool production so it feels like the right place to be doing it.  The landscape is scattered with mills built in the nineteenth century – but wool was being spun and woven in cottage industries and then transported to market or the Piece Halls on ponies travelling on packhorse tracks which still crisscross the moors. 

What techniques do you use in your clothing?
Knitting – with some knitted felt.  The important thing is stitch design – Nicola is the queen of 3D stitches that really sculpt the garments and give them their drama as well as their details. She uses hand operated knitting machines which give her scope to develop a stitch then apply it in loads of different ways so that it works on the body. Our knits tend to be more three-dimensional because they’re designed like this. Also, all our knits are fully fashioned (knitted to shape rather than cut out of a piece of knitted cloth) which looks better and wastes less yarn. 

What materials do you use in your clothing?
Wool – some of it undyed brown wool from our Shetland sheep, others fine Bluefaced Leicester wool, from the UK flock and English alpaca and mohair.


Illustration by Becky Glover

What was the inspiration behind your most recent collection? 
Romance, definitely. Nicola got married in the summer and the sense of romance seems to have seeped into and permeated the collection. There are lots of ruffles, little frills, translucency and volume – but not just ephemeral prettiness, really lovely things that you can adapt and keep forever. 

Do you have a favourite piece in the current collection? If so, what is it and why? 
There are a few things that are really adaptable – like the Manifold cardigan which has a ribbon tie which can be used to ruche it up to bolero length or left loose so that it’s a long, elegant cardigan. Our little Foxglove shrug also works as a summer scarf and the Manifold dresses can be styled in loads of ways so they let the wearer use her imagination. 

What are your future aims for the Makepiece brand?
We’ve really been growing our website so that people all over the country can buy our clothes but we’d like to be in more stores, for the people who are less confident with internet shopping or who like to try things on. 

Is it harder or easier to sell eco-fashion? Is there a lot of competition?
Because we make everything in the UK it’s more expensive to manufacture so that means that we have to do a good job in helping people understand.

What is so individual about the Makepiece brand?  
Style, humour and our flock of Shetland sheep.  We go from mud to mascara in a twinkling of an eye – never forgetting the roots of our fashion but always looking for beauty and grace in our designs. We try and be sustainable throughout the business – from the way we farm the sheep with the lowest impact possible (we’re just about to become part of a scheme to help protect twite – which is one of the most endangered British bird species) to buying green energy for the studio, recycling everything we can, using public transport as much as possible (I took our last collection to London Fashion Week on the train from Yorkshire – in the most enormous trunk – it was quite a feat), I even do some of the farming on my bike.   

The good thing about wool is that it is more or less a by-product from sheep farming so it’s not using up land or resources that should be in food production – and on upland farms like mine creating good grazing and farming sheep is one of the few productive things you can do (I tried vegetables once, but it was not a success!).  Compared to cotton, for example, which uses over 15% of the pesticides used in the world and vast amounts of water – so much that the irrigation of cotton has shrunk the size of the Aral Sea in Uzbekistan, wool is farmed much more sustainably (particularly in the UK where we have to look after the land as well as the animals and the government monitors your impact on the environment). 

Because we make everything so locally we avoid the CO2 emissions from shipping things vast distances. We also employ people in our community and use a local dyer who has to comply with European dyeing regulations – the REACH standards; no azos, no heavy metals and irritants, effluent is stringently monitored so no emissions into the water system, and so on. 
We also only use recycled and sustainable paper in our labelling and packaging. 

You can find the brand at: www.makepiece.co.uk and selected eco-fashion stores.

Categories ,A/W10, ,Aral Sea, ,Beate Kubitz, ,environment, ,estethica, ,Ethical Fashion, ,fashion, ,Felt, ,knitting, ,London Fashion Week, ,Makepiece, ,Pennines, ,Romance, ,Shetland sheep, ,Todmorden, ,wool

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with fashion designer Lu Flux


Christopher Raeburn S/S 2014 by Lilly Allen

There’s no stopping Christopher Raeburn. In 2010, website like this he was the first designer to be awarded the now lauded NEWGEN sponsorship; in 2011 he was named ‘Emerging Designer‘ at the British Fashion Awards. His unique ‘remade’ aesthetic has propelled him to fashion fame and his collections become stronger and stronger with each outing.


All photography by Matt Bramford

S/S 2014 was no exception. Presented in the basement of Victoria House, the bashed white tiles and right-angle catwalk fitted Christopher’s season like no other I saw during the collections.

This season’s inspiration began with the World War II faction the Long Range Desert Group; a reconnaissance organisation operating in the harsh conditions of the Libyan and Egyptian deserts. Yet again, the Raeburn Empire translates a military movement into a modern and functional collection.

The show opened with a pocketed parka and totally unique bomber featuring a heady digital print. I’ve since read on the press release that this is in fact satellite imagery of the desert; the former also featured the print on shorts, the latter was teamed with sand jersey joggers. Both looks set an early precedent that was to continue throughout this mind-blowing homage to textures and details.

Later came Raeburn‘s inimitable REMADE jackets, this time around in camouflage sheets and sand-coloured military parachutes, further extending his dedication to fabrics old and new. Raeburn‘s expertise lies in functional outerwear, and army green jackets with camo details and padded bombers with grey sleeves had me sliding off my seat.

It wasn’t all sand and archetypical desert colours, though. Oh no. Muted pinks used for jackets and shorts reflected the colour of LRDG Land Rovers; bright blue jackets were a welcome juxtaposition and a playful lizard print, this season’s mascot, reminded us that with Raeburn‘s functionality also comes fun.

Enormous rucksacks were presented in collaboration with Porter bags in a range of shapes, lending themselves to long distance explorations. These came in a variety of aesthetic fabrics; some were an extension of the garment they were clinging on to while others complimented such: take sand lizard-print rucksack matched with a jersey/mesh combo sweater.

There was so much more to this collection: tailored blazers reworked the satellite print, mesh tops were layered over tees, a belted trench provided a highlight and the finale; a translucent cape worn over the rucksack, provided press material while still managing to be coherent.


Christopher Raeburn S/S 2014 by Lilly Allen

It was brilliantly exhausting and I can’t wait to dream about buying it all up.


Matt Bramford is the son of a coal miner and Miss Butlins 1979. A fan of fashion from an early age, more about Matt could be found sporting Spring/Summer 1988′s pastel pallette on Blackpool’s glorious sands, being told off carrying his matching bucket and spade in the crook of his arm.

When not designing layouts featuring Stacey Slater or Ronnie Mitchell or, erm, Stacey Slater, at Britain’s favourite TV magazine, he’s usually chained to his desk replying to emails or editing pictures. He takes a hot snap and is a massive fan of Autostitch and Hipstamatic for iPhone, although he gets the occasional pang of guilt for cheating with the latter.

If you want to know what he had for breakfast this morning, find him on twitter @mattbramf. If you want to see some of said ‘hot snaps’ you can here.

Thanks!

Matt Bramford is the son of a coal miner and Miss Butlins 1979. A fan of fashion from an early age, viagra sale Matt could be found sporting Spring/Summer 1988′s pastel pallette on Blackpool’s glorious sands, being told off carrying his matching bucket and spade in the crook of his arm.

When not designing layouts featuring Stacey Slater or Ronnie Mitchell or, erm, Stacey Slater, at Britain’s favourite TV magazine, he’s usually chained to his desk replying to emails or editing pictures. He takes a hot snap and is a massive fan of Autostitch and Hipstamatic for iPhone, although he gets the occasional pang of guilt for cheating with the latter.

If you want to know what he had for breakfast this morning, find him on twitter @mattbramf. If you want to see some of said ‘hot snaps’ you can here.

Thanks!

Illustration by Jenny Robins

Lu Flux is one of the most interesting new British ethical fashion labels and one of the highlights in this year’s Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week. Katia Bololia meets her in her studio at the industrial end of East London to talk about her latest collection, this ‘Dame and Knight’, information pills ethical fashion and taking life less seriously.

Firstly, tell us a bit about yourself and your journey in the fashion world so far.
I graduated from the Edinburgh School of Art at 2006 and did my first collection for Glasgow Fashion Week, then went on to work with German fashion designer Bernhard Willhelm in Paris. I made the decision to move to London and at first I was doing commissions for other people, I hadn’t fully committed myself to fashion at the time until a friend of mine opened a gallery at Brick Lane and I put myself down for a show, so that put me into gear to make a collection for October 2008. That body of work I created eventually led me to the Vauxhaul Fashion Scout Show, which kicked off my career.

From then it escalated, leading to London Fashion Week’s Estethica Exhibition. Tell us about that experience.
It was really good, I hadn’t been to Estethica before and at first I didn’t know what to expect. There were all of the designers I’ve met before and it was nice because it felt like we were this strange ethical family, I’ve also met lots of people that I’ve heard about and wanted to meet personally. It was really lovely to be part of it and it was very exciting for me to be part of the LFW, I’ve never been in such a place before where I could meet people from all around the world.

What are the things that interest you in general?
Unfortunately, I don’t have a lot of time for myself but when I don’t do fashion I am very interested in art, galleries and culture mainly; music, films and everything. I like getting away to the countryside as well, escaping from it all.

When it comes to your label, do you have a fashion manifesto and if so what is it?
I read Vivienne’s Westwood manifesto recently and I suppose mine is very similar to hers, in the idea of buying something for longevity. I am also against disposable fashion. I think we should buy something because we love it and because it reflects our personality. I feel that all of my things transcend this message, to be loved for a long time.

There is a very interesting story when it comes to your fabrics, can you tell us where you source your fabrics from?
I used to source everything from charity and vintage shops, car boot sales and markets myself. Although I loved it, it is quite a difficult process as it takes up a lot of time and effort. I can’t commit myself to doing that anymore so I started working with a recycling company that is actually around the corner from my studio. These are fabrics coming from clothing banks from all around London, I may get fabric pieces, sheets or even clothes that I will take apart. The amount of waste that gets thrown every day is phenomenal and I am happy that I can make new, exciting pieces of it.

During that process, do you have difficulties sometimes finding the right thing for you? Or the opposite – finding a “small treasure” ?
Definitely, one piece of fabric can spark off a completely different design angle. I try not to have a specific design idea in my head, I prefer to see what I can get first and develop my designs from that; it helps the design process. If I can’t find something that I have in my mind, something else will come along and take its place. I also work with organic fabrics – the variety that’s out there is getting so much bigger these days and more accessible.

Speaking of organic, and its growth nowadays, I sometimes wonder if when companies take the eco route (whether it be fashion or food or whatever) they do so just because it has become fashionable. Although it all contributes to the greater good, do you feel that in some way ethical fashion has become commercial?
Green is definitely a buzz-word at the moment and everybody, be it in the fashion industry or not, tries to become as ethical as possible. I am not necessarily coming from that angle, even though I obviously care a lot about what I do and how it affects the environment, there is just too much waste and that affects everyone. But for me it’s more about the final garment than the ethical process; the fact that these pieces are unique, they’re more like art pieces.

In your collections we see an almost fairy-tale world. Where do you draw your inspiration from?
I have a personal collection of vintage photographs that I like to I look at. I love this time when photography was just starting and you get these moments frozen in time. Right now everyone uses photography all the time, capturing every moment, but back then you only see a fraction of their life and you have to imagine for yourself what their world might have been like. Obviously, I am also influenced by fairy-tales and their magical feeling; the escape from reality. Fashion is so intense, serious and glamorous and I want to take another spin on it, to keep it quite child-like and fun.

By seeing your collections past and present, one gets into a playful mood. Do you think that fashion is a protest these days, like it used to be in the past?
I think everyone’s got their point that they’re trying to make. My point is that you can have fun while making your point, it doesn’t all have to be serious. I want people to realize that they can have fun in whatever they’re doing and that humour can be injected in everything. Everything is so serious nowadays, fast-forward and busy.

For your last collection you’ve collaborated with London-based artist Alex Chinneck and traditional cordwainers Green Shoes. Tell us a little about that collaboration.
It was easy collaborating with Alex – he’s not only a wonderful sculptor but also my boyfriend! He had this paper cut-out of an explosion called Ka-boom and we both came up with the idea of translating it into a piece of clothing. It is a wonderful pictorial piece and it was also a real test for my patch-working abilities – it was really technical and much more complicated than I thought it would be, so it was really rewarding when it was finished. Then with Green Shoes, it all started when I bought a pair for Alex’s birthday and I decided to customise them for him, so it all unfolded with what I did and we decided to have them in the collection and a bag as well. They are all made of vegetarian leather and tanned with vegetable dye, so they’re as ethical as a shoe can be. Also, the cut-outs I used are off-cuts from the leftovers from Green Shoes to reduce waste once again.


Illustration by Jenny Robins

Finally, an urban fashion legend says that Tom Ford offered Stella McCartney the role of design director at Gucci. When McCartney said no fur or leather, and Ford couldn’t oblige, she turned down the role. What would you do in a similar dilemma, in a fantastic scenario where you are offered a dream job but you have to compromise your principles in ethical fashion?
Actually, I’m doing my dream job already! I don’t want to buy fabric off the roll, I have to think within these parameters and I like the barriers that I have put to myself, otherwise it is not ethical. This way I push myself to do something a little bit extra, it’s not as easy because all these fabrics are not given to me on a plate. When you are more resourceful and you push yourself creatively then the final result is much more rewarding. I don’t want to preach to people, but I want to plant an idea. If people like it they might be inspired and follow my example. Fingers crossed!


Lu Flux photographed by Holly Falconer

Categories ,Alex Chinneck, ,Charity shops, ,estethica, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Fabrics, ,Green Shoes, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lu Flux, ,Manifesto, ,organic, ,recycle, ,Reuse, ,Vintage shops, ,Vivienne Westwood

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with fashion designer Lu Flux


Christopher Raeburn S/S 2014 by Lilly Allen

There’s no stopping Christopher Raeburn. In 2010, website like this he was the first designer to be awarded the now lauded NEWGEN sponsorship; in 2011 he was named ‘Emerging Designer‘ at the British Fashion Awards. His unique ‘remade’ aesthetic has propelled him to fashion fame and his collections become stronger and stronger with each outing.


All photography by Matt Bramford

S/S 2014 was no exception. Presented in the basement of Victoria House, the bashed white tiles and right-angle catwalk fitted Christopher’s season like no other I saw during the collections.

This season’s inspiration began with the World War II faction the Long Range Desert Group; a reconnaissance organisation operating in the harsh conditions of the Libyan and Egyptian deserts. Yet again, the Raeburn Empire translates a military movement into a modern and functional collection.

The show opened with a pocketed parka and totally unique bomber featuring a heady digital print. I’ve since read on the press release that this is in fact satellite imagery of the desert; the former also featured the print on shorts, the latter was teamed with sand jersey joggers. Both looks set an early precedent that was to continue throughout this mind-blowing homage to textures and details.

Later came Raeburn‘s inimitable REMADE jackets, this time around in camouflage sheets and sand-coloured military parachutes, further extending his dedication to fabrics old and new. Raeburn‘s expertise lies in functional outerwear, and army green jackets with camo details and padded bombers with grey sleeves had me sliding off my seat.

It wasn’t all sand and archetypical desert colours, though. Oh no. Muted pinks used for jackets and shorts reflected the colour of LRDG Land Rovers; bright blue jackets were a welcome juxtaposition and a playful lizard print, this season’s mascot, reminded us that with Raeburn‘s functionality also comes fun.

Enormous rucksacks were presented in collaboration with Porter bags in a range of shapes, lending themselves to long distance explorations. These came in a variety of aesthetic fabrics; some were an extension of the garment they were clinging on to while others complimented such: take sand lizard-print rucksack matched with a jersey/mesh combo sweater.

There was so much more to this collection: tailored blazers reworked the satellite print, mesh tops were layered over tees, a belted trench provided a highlight and the finale; a translucent cape worn over the rucksack, provided press material while still managing to be coherent.


Christopher Raeburn S/S 2014 by Lilly Allen

It was brilliantly exhausting and I can’t wait to dream about buying it all up.


Matt Bramford is the son of a coal miner and Miss Butlins 1979. A fan of fashion from an early age, more about Matt could be found sporting Spring/Summer 1988′s pastel pallette on Blackpool’s glorious sands, being told off carrying his matching bucket and spade in the crook of his arm.

When not designing layouts featuring Stacey Slater or Ronnie Mitchell or, erm, Stacey Slater, at Britain’s favourite TV magazine, he’s usually chained to his desk replying to emails or editing pictures. He takes a hot snap and is a massive fan of Autostitch and Hipstamatic for iPhone, although he gets the occasional pang of guilt for cheating with the latter.

If you want to know what he had for breakfast this morning, find him on twitter @mattbramf. If you want to see some of said ‘hot snaps’ you can here.

Thanks!

Matt Bramford is the son of a coal miner and Miss Butlins 1979. A fan of fashion from an early age, viagra sale Matt could be found sporting Spring/Summer 1988′s pastel pallette on Blackpool’s glorious sands, being told off carrying his matching bucket and spade in the crook of his arm.

When not designing layouts featuring Stacey Slater or Ronnie Mitchell or, erm, Stacey Slater, at Britain’s favourite TV magazine, he’s usually chained to his desk replying to emails or editing pictures. He takes a hot snap and is a massive fan of Autostitch and Hipstamatic for iPhone, although he gets the occasional pang of guilt for cheating with the latter.

If you want to know what he had for breakfast this morning, find him on twitter @mattbramf. If you want to see some of said ‘hot snaps’ you can here.

Thanks!

Illustration by Jenny Robins

Lu Flux is one of the most interesting new British ethical fashion labels and one of the highlights in this year’s Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week. Katia Bololia meets her in her studio at the industrial end of East London to talk about her latest collection, this ‘Dame and Knight’, information pills ethical fashion and taking life less seriously.

Firstly, tell us a bit about yourself and your journey in the fashion world so far.
I graduated from the Edinburgh School of Art at 2006 and did my first collection for Glasgow Fashion Week, then went on to work with German fashion designer Bernhard Willhelm in Paris. I made the decision to move to London and at first I was doing commissions for other people, I hadn’t fully committed myself to fashion at the time until a friend of mine opened a gallery at Brick Lane and I put myself down for a show, so that put me into gear to make a collection for October 2008. That body of work I created eventually led me to the Vauxhaul Fashion Scout Show, which kicked off my career.

From then it escalated, leading to London Fashion Week’s Estethica Exhibition. Tell us about that experience.
It was really good, I hadn’t been to Estethica before and at first I didn’t know what to expect. There were all of the designers I’ve met before and it was nice because it felt like we were this strange ethical family, I’ve also met lots of people that I’ve heard about and wanted to meet personally. It was really lovely to be part of it and it was very exciting for me to be part of the LFW, I’ve never been in such a place before where I could meet people from all around the world.

What are the things that interest you in general?
Unfortunately, I don’t have a lot of time for myself but when I don’t do fashion I am very interested in art, galleries and culture mainly; music, films and everything. I like getting away to the countryside as well, escaping from it all.

When it comes to your label, do you have a fashion manifesto and if so what is it?
I read Vivienne’s Westwood manifesto recently and I suppose mine is very similar to hers, in the idea of buying something for longevity. I am also against disposable fashion. I think we should buy something because we love it and because it reflects our personality. I feel that all of my things transcend this message, to be loved for a long time.

There is a very interesting story when it comes to your fabrics, can you tell us where you source your fabrics from?
I used to source everything from charity and vintage shops, car boot sales and markets myself. Although I loved it, it is quite a difficult process as it takes up a lot of time and effort. I can’t commit myself to doing that anymore so I started working with a recycling company that is actually around the corner from my studio. These are fabrics coming from clothing banks from all around London, I may get fabric pieces, sheets or even clothes that I will take apart. The amount of waste that gets thrown every day is phenomenal and I am happy that I can make new, exciting pieces of it.

During that process, do you have difficulties sometimes finding the right thing for you? Or the opposite – finding a “small treasure” ?
Definitely, one piece of fabric can spark off a completely different design angle. I try not to have a specific design idea in my head, I prefer to see what I can get first and develop my designs from that; it helps the design process. If I can’t find something that I have in my mind, something else will come along and take its place. I also work with organic fabrics – the variety that’s out there is getting so much bigger these days and more accessible.

Speaking of organic, and its growth nowadays, I sometimes wonder if when companies take the eco route (whether it be fashion or food or whatever) they do so just because it has become fashionable. Although it all contributes to the greater good, do you feel that in some way ethical fashion has become commercial?
Green is definitely a buzz-word at the moment and everybody, be it in the fashion industry or not, tries to become as ethical as possible. I am not necessarily coming from that angle, even though I obviously care a lot about what I do and how it affects the environment, there is just too much waste and that affects everyone. But for me it’s more about the final garment than the ethical process; the fact that these pieces are unique, they’re more like art pieces.

In your collections we see an almost fairy-tale world. Where do you draw your inspiration from?
I have a personal collection of vintage photographs that I like to I look at. I love this time when photography was just starting and you get these moments frozen in time. Right now everyone uses photography all the time, capturing every moment, but back then you only see a fraction of their life and you have to imagine for yourself what their world might have been like. Obviously, I am also influenced by fairy-tales and their magical feeling; the escape from reality. Fashion is so intense, serious and glamorous and I want to take another spin on it, to keep it quite child-like and fun.

By seeing your collections past and present, one gets into a playful mood. Do you think that fashion is a protest these days, like it used to be in the past?
I think everyone’s got their point that they’re trying to make. My point is that you can have fun while making your point, it doesn’t all have to be serious. I want people to realize that they can have fun in whatever they’re doing and that humour can be injected in everything. Everything is so serious nowadays, fast-forward and busy.

For your last collection you’ve collaborated with London-based artist Alex Chinneck and traditional cordwainers Green Shoes. Tell us a little about that collaboration.
It was easy collaborating with Alex – he’s not only a wonderful sculptor but also my boyfriend! He had this paper cut-out of an explosion called Ka-boom and we both came up with the idea of translating it into a piece of clothing. It is a wonderful pictorial piece and it was also a real test for my patch-working abilities – it was really technical and much more complicated than I thought it would be, so it was really rewarding when it was finished. Then with Green Shoes, it all started when I bought a pair for Alex’s birthday and I decided to customise them for him, so it all unfolded with what I did and we decided to have them in the collection and a bag as well. They are all made of vegetarian leather and tanned with vegetable dye, so they’re as ethical as a shoe can be. Also, the cut-outs I used are off-cuts from the leftovers from Green Shoes to reduce waste once again.


Illustration by Jenny Robins

Finally, an urban fashion legend says that Tom Ford offered Stella McCartney the role of design director at Gucci. When McCartney said no fur or leather, and Ford couldn’t oblige, she turned down the role. What would you do in a similar dilemma, in a fantastic scenario where you are offered a dream job but you have to compromise your principles in ethical fashion?
Actually, I’m doing my dream job already! I don’t want to buy fabric off the roll, I have to think within these parameters and I like the barriers that I have put to myself, otherwise it is not ethical. This way I push myself to do something a little bit extra, it’s not as easy because all these fabrics are not given to me on a plate. When you are more resourceful and you push yourself creatively then the final result is much more rewarding. I don’t want to preach to people, but I want to plant an idea. If people like it they might be inspired and follow my example. Fingers crossed!


Lu Flux photographed by Holly Falconer

Categories ,Alex Chinneck, ,Charity shops, ,estethica, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Fabrics, ,Green Shoes, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lu Flux, ,Manifesto, ,organic, ,recycle, ,Reuse, ,Vintage shops, ,Vivienne Westwood

Similar Posts: