Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Mode, Florian Jayet

Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West.

I think it was round about show three at Fashion Mode when I was suddenly implored to shunt up into a non existent space so that two more people could be squeezed on to the end of the front row. Now excuse me, cure but if you’re that late to a fashion show, order isn’t it just polite behaviour to hover at the back? That’s certainly what I do when the situation arises.

Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West.

So it was with mild aggravation that I watched the Florian Jayet collection parade in front of me. Jayet is known for his structured outfits befitting of a modern amazonian, viagra and for S/S 2012 he was inspired by the Japanese myth of Yurei, whereby those who are murdered must spend the afterlife seeking their killer in order to free their tormented spirits and finally reach heaven.

Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet by Sarah Jayne Morris
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

I think it must have been in the styling that this concept really took hold – models had seriously over the top back-combed hair, as if dragged through an otherworldly mire. Added to this they wore exceptionally dark eye make-up and bloodily smudged lips that gave the impression they had been feasting on something unholy. To top the look off they wore chain headdresses that draped low over their eyes. It was all in all an unappealing look that dominated the clothing far more than was necessary.

Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Far more successful were the smart tailored separates in white: structured skater dresses featuring cut out details and jackets with high waisted peplums and flowing caped sleeves. However printed floral lace panels and bodies were wide off the mark, giving the collection an unnecessarily cheap finish. Let’s hope that next season sees Florian Jayet return to form.

Categories ,Afterlife, ,Fashion Mode, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,Florian Jayet, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,japanese, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Myth, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Yurei

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: John Rocha

John Rocha SS 2012 by Sarah Harman
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Sarah Harman

Harold Tillman, information pills Hilary Alexander and James Goldstein were just a few of the fashion bigwigs to take their prime seating positions in anticipation of the latest John Rocha collection. This was much the same scenario when I attended Rocha’s show last season and the high-flying professionals seem to have become a favoured crowd for Rocha’s front row. And it’s not surprising when, information pills needless to say, cure the designer is a long-standing, treasured feature of London Fashion Week who is widely celebrated and, most of all, respected.

John Rocha by Duilio Marconi 1

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi 2

Model Abbey Lee Kershaw opened the show and took to the runway in the opening outfit. Sporting an all-black voluminous textured dress, her entrance had photographers’ flashes illuminating the BFC tent. Kershaw, who was finally dubbed a supermodel this year by V magazine, had also been presented as a key feature in Rocha’s A/W 2011 show back in February, suggesting that Rocha has seemingly taken quite a shine to the 24 year-old Australian.

John Rocha SS 2012 LFW by Nicola Ellen 2
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Also just like last season, (Rocha loves his traditions!) the models were styled with wind-swept nymph hair and long braided plaits. Make-up was minimal, pure and simple with pale fresh-faced skin and nude colouring; an overall effortless ethereal look to compliment John Rocha’s signature design ethic.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Much to their delight, I’m sure, John Rocha was one designer that gave models’ skinny-pins a short break from killer heels. In their place were black platformed flat sandals, adding an updated feminine grunge look (minus all the pain!).

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

 Rocha SS 2012 LFW by Nicola Ellen 1
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

To name a few of the many more intricacies that went into Rocha’s elaborately crafted collection, ribbons were attached to hair and hung long next to plaits and all models sported either wire or feather headdresses. The problem with this idea was that because Abbey had opened the show in a wired headdress with black feathers, I was almost convinced that a major fashion disaster had occurred. Models were appearing with bare wire headdresses; no feathers. They looked absolutely bizarre so I naturally assumed that their feathers must have fallen off. What a nightmare, I thought. This wasn’t the case at all. It was purposeful. Just John Rocha keeping us on our toes, I suppose.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Just as was the case with his A/W11 collection, the colour palette was ultra-minimal with neutral tones dominating throughout. In fact, there were only three colours on the agenda; all rich-black ensembles led to cream creations which then led to head-to-toe stark white. With only black, cream and white, the focus shifted away from colour to texture instead. Texture was intricately and ornately crafted with Abbey’s opening black raffia dress, raw raffia that made up other ensembles, loops of black rubber and Lurex threads intertwined in the cream and white garments.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha Catwalk LFW by Nicola Ellen jpg
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Towering tall over John Rocha, Abbey Lee Kershaw once again led the Hong Kong born designer down the catwalk for another of his gracious finales. And, as has become tradition, he placed a kiss on Abbey‘s cheek at the feet of the snapping papz, and then John Rocha was off, thanking and bowing to the audience as he went.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi
All photography by Duilio Marconi

Categories ,Abbey Lee Kershaw, ,Amelia’s Magazine, ,BFC Catwalk Space, ,BFC Showspace, ,BFC Tent, ,black, ,british fashion council, ,Cream, ,Debenhams Rocha, ,Duilio Marconi, ,Georgia Takacs, ,Harold Tillman, ,Headdresses, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Hong Kong, ,James Goldstein, ,John Rocha, ,lfw, ,LFW S/S 2012, ,LFW S/S12, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,London Fashion Week S/S12, ,Lurex, ,Myth, ,Mythologies, ,Myths, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Nymphs, ,Raffia, ,Rubber, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Harman, ,Simone Rocha, ,Somerset House, ,Texture, ,Warriors, ,White

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Amelia’s Magazine | Brahma Dreaming: an interview with illustrator Daniela Jaglenka Terrazzini

Brahma-Dreaming-illustration-by-Daniela-Jaglenka-Terrazzini-Sati
Italian born illustrator Daniela Jaglenka Terrazzini has teamed up with polymath writer, lawyer, nature lover and publisher John Jackson for the second time to create a new book. Brahma Dreaming: Legends from Hindu Mythology, is sumptuously bound and my press copy came nestled in an imposing embossed black box. Inside, the Hindu myths of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu are retold alongside beautiful black ink illustrations that owe more to the style of Beardsley and Rackham than traditional Hindu artists. I look forward to reading this book to Snarfle once he grows old enough to appreciate it, but in the meantime it is the gorgeous handwritten type and Daniela’s imaginative reinterpretations of the tales that have me spellbound.

Brahma Dreaming 2013 -cover
You have a background in both fine art and photography – how did your illustration practice grow out of both these disciplines and do you still create in all mediums?
I sometimes wonder what exactly one gets taught at an illustration school and what the advantages/disadvantages of being self taught and coming from a different, albeit somewhat relevant, background might be. I think both my fine art and photography backgrounds have informed my illustration work, aesthetically and in the physical and mental process that accompanies it.
I haven’t been producing images that would traditionally be classified as ‘fine art’ for a while, but I still practice photography.

Brahma-Dreaming-illustration-by-Daniela-Jaglenka-Terrazzini The Lie
When did you discover your love of pen and ink and how long has it taken to fine tune your particular style?
My love for ink on the one hand and black and white work on the other was there since college. But in the commercial world of illustration it’s relatively rare to be commissioned for black ink work, so it is really only with Brahma Dreaming that I was able to fully explore it. I think my style for this book naturally stemmed, in part, from the decorative style that I’ve been developing for my design and packaging commissions. But in its full story telling form I fine tuned it as I went. There is a natural, although I think subtle, progression in the technical development of the illustrations in this book. Although I haven’t illustrated them in the book order, so it might be hard for someone other than me to see.

Brahma Dreaming 2013
What is it about the HIndu tales of this book that inspired you the most?
Each tale in the book has its own perfect balance of love, dramatic tension and wicked sense of humour. But in the end, it was the dark and surreal nature of the stories that inspired me the most.

Brahma-Dreaming-illustration-by-Daniela-Jaglenka-Terrazzini Uma
Sati is a good example of a story where I found plenty of inspiration. The story tells of the love between two underdogs; Sati a princess too meek and mousy to secure the love and respect of her father, and Shiva, the Lord of Destruction, a dark and unloved figure, with matted hair and his breath reminiscent of burning corpses. Sati chooses Shiva, in spite of her father’s vehement disapproval but we know it won’t end well, as in the next tale, under the unbearable burden of the fatherly rejection Sati will commit suicide. In the depiction of their union, I chose to convey both the tenderness of the two figures in their devotion to each other, as well as the ominous outcome of Sati‘s choice, which I tried to evoke by making the tiger skin Shiva is cloaked in tower menacingly over Sati, a little too alive for comfort.

Brahma-Dreaming-illustration-by-Daniela-Jaglenka-Terrazzini Rama & Sita
How did you first start working together with John Jackson, and what was the process of working with him on this project?
John found me through my agent and liked my work enough to trust me since the beginning to ‘do my thing’ and use my aesthetic judgement. In short, I was blessed to be given more creative freedom and trust that one normally gets at a relatively early stage of one’s career. As it happened, collaborating with John on Tales for Great Grandchildren was such an inspiring and enjoyable experience, that we went on to work on Brahma Dreaming together. Our work happens in fairly separate stages. John writes the stories and I then read them and visualise what my favourite way of representing them would be.

Brahma Dreaming 2013
Where do you live and where do you work? How do you set the perfect atmosphere in your studio?
I both live and work in East London. My studio is set around a cobbled courtyard surrounded by many other, glass fronted, studios, in which a lot of manual creative activity unfolds. It’s a beautifully inspiring place to work. My particular studio, which I share with two dear friends, is full of old bits of furniture and soft lighting. And smells of good tea, coffee and old wood.

Brahma Dreaming 2013 -title
When you are not drawing what do you like to do to relax and find inspiration?
I like to watch old movies, read interesting books and swing dance.

See more of Daniela Jaglenka Terrazzini‘s artwork here. Brahma Dreaming: Legends from Hindu Mythology is published by JJ Books and is available to pre-order now.

Categories ,Beardsley, ,book, ,Brahma, ,Brahma Dreaming, ,Daniela Jaglenka Terrazzini, ,Hindu, ,illustration, ,JJ Books, ,John Jackson, ,Legends from Hindu Mythology, ,Myth, ,Rackham, ,review, ,Sati, ,Shiva, ,Snarfle, ,Tales for Great Grandchildren, ,Vishnu

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