Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: John Rocha

John Rocha SS 2012 by Sarah Harman
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Sarah Harman

Harold Tillman, information pills Hilary Alexander and James Goldstein were just a few of the fashion bigwigs to take their prime seating positions in anticipation of the latest John Rocha collection. This was much the same scenario when I attended Rocha’s show last season and the high-flying professionals seem to have become a favoured crowd for Rocha’s front row. And it’s not surprising when, information pills needless to say, cure the designer is a long-standing, treasured feature of London Fashion Week who is widely celebrated and, most of all, respected.

John Rocha by Duilio Marconi 1

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi 2

Model Abbey Lee Kershaw opened the show and took to the runway in the opening outfit. Sporting an all-black voluminous textured dress, her entrance had photographers’ flashes illuminating the BFC tent. Kershaw, who was finally dubbed a supermodel this year by V magazine, had also been presented as a key feature in Rocha’s A/W 2011 show back in February, suggesting that Rocha has seemingly taken quite a shine to the 24 year-old Australian.

John Rocha SS 2012 LFW by Nicola Ellen 2
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Also just like last season, (Rocha loves his traditions!) the models were styled with wind-swept nymph hair and long braided plaits. Make-up was minimal, pure and simple with pale fresh-faced skin and nude colouring; an overall effortless ethereal look to compliment John Rocha’s signature design ethic.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Much to their delight, I’m sure, John Rocha was one designer that gave models’ skinny-pins a short break from killer heels. In their place were black platformed flat sandals, adding an updated feminine grunge look (minus all the pain!).

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

 Rocha SS 2012 LFW by Nicola Ellen 1
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

To name a few of the many more intricacies that went into Rocha’s elaborately crafted collection, ribbons were attached to hair and hung long next to plaits and all models sported either wire or feather headdresses. The problem with this idea was that because Abbey had opened the show in a wired headdress with black feathers, I was almost convinced that a major fashion disaster had occurred. Models were appearing with bare wire headdresses; no feathers. They looked absolutely bizarre so I naturally assumed that their feathers must have fallen off. What a nightmare, I thought. This wasn’t the case at all. It was purposeful. Just John Rocha keeping us on our toes, I suppose.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Just as was the case with his A/W11 collection, the colour palette was ultra-minimal with neutral tones dominating throughout. In fact, there were only three colours on the agenda; all rich-black ensembles led to cream creations which then led to head-to-toe stark white. With only black, cream and white, the focus shifted away from colour to texture instead. Texture was intricately and ornately crafted with Abbey’s opening black raffia dress, raw raffia that made up other ensembles, loops of black rubber and Lurex threads intertwined in the cream and white garments.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha Catwalk LFW by Nicola Ellen jpg
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Towering tall over John Rocha, Abbey Lee Kershaw once again led the Hong Kong born designer down the catwalk for another of his gracious finales. And, as has become tradition, he placed a kiss on Abbey‘s cheek at the feet of the snapping papz, and then John Rocha was off, thanking and bowing to the audience as he went.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi
All photography by Duilio Marconi

Categories ,Abbey Lee Kershaw, ,Amelia’s Magazine, ,BFC Catwalk Space, ,BFC Showspace, ,BFC Tent, ,black, ,british fashion council, ,Cream, ,Debenhams Rocha, ,Duilio Marconi, ,Georgia Takacs, ,Harold Tillman, ,Headdresses, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Hong Kong, ,James Goldstein, ,John Rocha, ,lfw, ,LFW S/S 2012, ,LFW S/S12, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,London Fashion Week S/S12, ,Lurex, ,Myth, ,Mythologies, ,Myths, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Nymphs, ,Raffia, ,Rubber, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Harman, ,Simone Rocha, ,Somerset House, ,Texture, ,Warriors, ,White

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Masha Ma

Masha Ma SS 2012 1 by Marta Spendowska
Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Marta Spendowska

She concluded her MA in Womenswear at Central Saint Martins only three years ago, page but Masha Ma has already a made a name for herself amongst London Fashion Week goers, visit web and is even one of Amelia Gregory’s favourites! True story. We therefore, capsule of course, made our way back to Vauxhall Fashion Scout to see what she’d been up to and what her S/S 2012 range had to offer.

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-003

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-004

In our interview with the award-winning designer last August, just prior to her London Fashion Week debut, Masha described her design agenda as ‘chic, modern arrogance and semi-couture’. Since then, we’ve seen her work evolve from her exquisite take on classic chic to what Amelia and I witnessed on that Saturday morning; a futuristic, bold mission into the female silhouette with accomplished fashion-forward detail.

Masha Ma SS 2012 by Meagan Morrison 1
Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Meagan Morrison

Inspired by the reconstruction of the famous Palace of Versailles, France, the collection displayed a combination of disciplined colours and textures juxtaposed with distressed sheers and unfinished edges. Most looks were slim, elegant, elongated assemblies with a tough sportswear vibe running throughout, complete with strategically placed zips, head gear and androgynous tailoring.

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-011

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-014

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-015

Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Kassie Berry
Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Kassie Berry

The show began with icy ensembles of muted blues and green pieces in numerous tones of mint and sea foam. For me, it was a stunning colour pallette which illuminated upon a delicate canvas of fluid silks, satins and sheers. These light references to an underwater odyssey (helped along by the gentle water sounds on the soundtrack) blended in-and-out amongst the Palace-inspired printed pieces. Thematically, the consistency did seem to lack. This, however, didn’t prevent me from finding the collection’s many contrasting elements equally delightful.

Masha Ma SS 2012 by Meagan Morrison 2
Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Meagan Morrison

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-022

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-023

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-033

Sheer white gauze skimmed down legs and clung loosely around calves, whilst delicate tight-pleated mini skater skirts in mint tones swayed across thighs. It was an unusually sexy composition that contrasted with smart, high-necked tailored shirts. Intelligent construction existed in the zipping together of a-symetric skirt and dress layers with other zips utilised as shaping detail to flatter the figure. The female silohuette was considered, embraced and pushed to new boundaries.

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-053

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-056

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-063

Masha Ma SS 2012 by Marta Spendowska
Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Marta Spendowska

Amongst my favourite pieces were the breathtakingly skilled coats that dominated the show, pre-finale. Original and dramatic in design, yet extremely wearable for the Spring/Summer seasons, I was being seduced into the idea of owning one of Masha‘s beautifully crafted outerwear pieces. (The matte-white one took my fancy; a girl can always dream.)

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-076

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-086

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-096

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-127

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-131

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-132
All photography by Amelia Gregory

As opposed to the radical design ethic that is so deep-seated in London fashion today, observing a collection so fine in detail and delicate in reference is something rare and refreshing. In her return to London Fashion Week for her third solo collection, Ma didn’t disappoint. In fact, it extended our vision as to her dress-making capabilities. With the art direction intriguing and beautifully illustrated, the construction unique and the detail impeccable, Masha Ma certainly (and, perhaps, unknowingly) reaffirmed herself as one of Amelia’s Magazine‘s firm favourites.

Categories ,Amelia Gregory, ,Blue, ,france, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Front Row, ,Georgia Takacs, ,lfw, ,LFW S/S 2012, ,LFW S/S12, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,London Fashion Week S/S12, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Masha Ma, ,Masha Ma S/S 2012, ,Masha Ma S/S12, ,Meagan Morrison, ,Palace of Versailles, ,pleats, ,print, ,sportswear, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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