Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: John Rocha

John Rocha SS 2012 by Sarah Harman
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Sarah Harman

Harold Tillman, information pills Hilary Alexander and James Goldstein were just a few of the fashion bigwigs to take their prime seating positions in anticipation of the latest John Rocha collection. This was much the same scenario when I attended Rocha’s show last season and the high-flying professionals seem to have become a favoured crowd for Rocha’s front row. And it’s not surprising when, information pills needless to say, cure the designer is a long-standing, treasured feature of London Fashion Week who is widely celebrated and, most of all, respected.

John Rocha by Duilio Marconi 1

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi 2

Model Abbey Lee Kershaw opened the show and took to the runway in the opening outfit. Sporting an all-black voluminous textured dress, her entrance had photographers’ flashes illuminating the BFC tent. Kershaw, who was finally dubbed a supermodel this year by V magazine, had also been presented as a key feature in Rocha’s A/W 2011 show back in February, suggesting that Rocha has seemingly taken quite a shine to the 24 year-old Australian.

John Rocha SS 2012 LFW by Nicola Ellen 2
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Also just like last season, (Rocha loves his traditions!) the models were styled with wind-swept nymph hair and long braided plaits. Make-up was minimal, pure and simple with pale fresh-faced skin and nude colouring; an overall effortless ethereal look to compliment John Rocha’s signature design ethic.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Much to their delight, I’m sure, John Rocha was one designer that gave models’ skinny-pins a short break from killer heels. In their place were black platformed flat sandals, adding an updated feminine grunge look (minus all the pain!).

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

 Rocha SS 2012 LFW by Nicola Ellen 1
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

To name a few of the many more intricacies that went into Rocha’s elaborately crafted collection, ribbons were attached to hair and hung long next to plaits and all models sported either wire or feather headdresses. The problem with this idea was that because Abbey had opened the show in a wired headdress with black feathers, I was almost convinced that a major fashion disaster had occurred. Models were appearing with bare wire headdresses; no feathers. They looked absolutely bizarre so I naturally assumed that their feathers must have fallen off. What a nightmare, I thought. This wasn’t the case at all. It was purposeful. Just John Rocha keeping us on our toes, I suppose.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Just as was the case with his A/W11 collection, the colour palette was ultra-minimal with neutral tones dominating throughout. In fact, there were only three colours on the agenda; all rich-black ensembles led to cream creations which then led to head-to-toe stark white. With only black, cream and white, the focus shifted away from colour to texture instead. Texture was intricately and ornately crafted with Abbey’s opening black raffia dress, raw raffia that made up other ensembles, loops of black rubber and Lurex threads intertwined in the cream and white garments.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha Catwalk LFW by Nicola Ellen jpg
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Towering tall over John Rocha, Abbey Lee Kershaw once again led the Hong Kong born designer down the catwalk for another of his gracious finales. And, as has become tradition, he placed a kiss on Abbey‘s cheek at the feet of the snapping papz, and then John Rocha was off, thanking and bowing to the audience as he went.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi
All photography by Duilio Marconi

Categories ,Abbey Lee Kershaw, ,Amelia’s Magazine, ,BFC Catwalk Space, ,BFC Showspace, ,BFC Tent, ,black, ,british fashion council, ,Cream, ,Debenhams Rocha, ,Duilio Marconi, ,Georgia Takacs, ,Harold Tillman, ,Headdresses, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Hong Kong, ,James Goldstein, ,John Rocha, ,lfw, ,LFW S/S 2012, ,LFW S/S12, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,London Fashion Week S/S12, ,Lurex, ,Myth, ,Mythologies, ,Myths, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Nymphs, ,Raffia, ,Rubber, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Harman, ,Simone Rocha, ,Somerset House, ,Texture, ,Warriors, ,White

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: John Rocha

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

Illustration by Mina Bach

If I could taste something as delish for the mouth as Elliott J. Frieze is for the eyes, pill I’d eat it up so fast that time may go backwards. It’s my second LFW show of newcomer Elliott J. Frieze and I’m seriously beginning to LOVE this guy. Like, true sartorial love. His work needs to be up there with the best on the BFC Catwalk. NEEDS.

Saying that, however, he did bag a rather delectable venue anyway. Especially for his third London Fashion Week show. It was a bit of an epic walk in the rain down the entire length of the Strand, but for the beautiful Charing Cross Hotel? Well worth it. And with free champagne, who’s complaining? Not me. Well actually, me a bit… I thought ‘Great! Bit of bubbly will numb my stabbing sore throat’ – WRONG. (Note To All – 1 in 2 people at fashion week are ill like moi). After a sneaky chat with someone in the production team, Amelia, Matt and I got first dibs on seats, as well as a lovely lady from Grazia. She lent me a lush pen that had me wishing she’d forget to ask for it back. We spread ourselves amongst the front rows for different perspectives and then it was the hipsters turn to pick-and-choose. It sure felt good to have one-up on them this time! The crowds then gushed in with one lady’s hat towering tall above them all. We couldn’t help staring in the champagne reception, it genuinely looked like a Philip Treacy. Jealous.

Illustration by Kerriann Hulme

The runway for the show was unique in that it snaked around the room, this insanely beautiful ornate room. A gleaming chandelier hung high over our heads, for goodness sake. And velvet and marble was coming in from all directions. So were the clothes as luxe as the location?

Illustration by Natsuki Otani

HELL yes, they were. The collection, once again, embodied his natural design ethos, paying homage to classic British Tailoring intertwined with sexy modernity. I remember this creepy boy from my childhood wore green corduroy trousers to school everyday, so I usually REPELL corduroy. However, Elliott J. Frieze has officially turned me with suitable injections of camel-coloured corduroy – think pencil skirts and jacket details. Lush.

The whole colour pallette was perfection on the eyes. Frieze centred it around a combination of ‘caffeine mixtures’ represented by Latte, Mochas and Expresso. Considering i’m a die-hard lover of anything coffee-flavoured, this must be why i wanted to eat the collection up! Everything was very well co-ordinated.

Frieze drove the boundaries of his classic British foundations with cocktail dresses made from lambswool and a long beautiful dress that was constructed by some of the most impressive jersey draping I have EVER seen. No wonder he’s dressed such power-women as Yasmini Le Bon, Lily Cole & Erin O’ Connor.

The idea is that the look reflects Elliott’s story from Country to City. From all those old-fashioned favourite textures to a bit of spectacular cinching, draping and tucking to prepare the country Lord/Lady for the London ratrace!

Much inspiration was taken from the 1970s. Therefore, just like last season, hair was big, curly and volumnous. Suitable additions of sunglasses courtesy of Persol and gloves by Southcombe set the whole look off, creating a powerful and sexy image.

If I wasn’t currently a student and could afford to invest in any up-and-coming designer, I would go straight to Elliott J. Frieze! He’s my definate one-to-watch so, if I were you, I’d keep an eye on him.

Illustration by Mina Bach

If I could taste something as delish for the mouth as Elliott J. Frieze is for the eyes, more about I’d eat it up so fast that time may go backwards. It’s my second LFW show of newcomer Elliott J. Frieze and I’m seriously beginning to LOVE this guy. Like, pharm true sartorial love. His work needs to be up there with the best on the BFC Catwalk. NEEDS.

Illustration by Matilda Sazio

Saying that, buy more about however, he did bag a rather delectable venue anyway. Especially for his third London Fashion Week show. It was a bit of an epic walk in the rain down the entire length of the Strand, but for the beautiful Charing Cross Hotel? Well worth it. And with free champagne, who’s complaining? Not me. Well actually, me a bit… I thought ‘Great! Bit of bubbly will numb my stabbing sore throat’ – WRONG. (Note To All – 1 in 2 people at fashion week are ill like moi). After a sneaky chat with someone in the production team, Amelia, Matt and I got first dibs on seats, as well as a lovely lady from Grazia. She lent me a lush pen that had me wishing she’d forget to ask for it back. We spread ourselves amongst the front rows for different perspectives and then it was the hipsters turn to pick-and-choose. It sure felt good to have one-up on them this time! The crowds then gushed in with one lady’s hat towering tall above them all. We couldn’t help staring in the champagne reception, it genuinely looked like a Philip Treacy. Jealous.

Illustration by Kerriann Hulme

The runway for the show was unique in that it snaked around the room, this insanely beautiful ornate room. A gleaming chandelier hung high over our heads, for goodness sake. And velvet and marble was coming in from all directions. So were the clothes as luxe as the location?

Illustration by Natsuki Otani

HELL yes, they were. The collection, once again, embodied his natural design ethos, paying homage to classic British Tailoring intertwined with sexy modernity. I remember this creepy boy from my childhood wore green corduroy trousers to school everyday, so I usually REPELL corduroy. However, Elliott J. Frieze has officially turned me with suitable injections of camel-coloured corduroy – think pencil skirts and jacket details. Lush.

The whole colour pallette was perfection on the eyes. Frieze centred it around a combination of ‘caffeine mixtures’ represented by Latte, Mochas and Expresso. Considering i’m a die-hard lover of anything coffee-flavoured, this must be why i wanted to eat the collection up! Everything was very well co-ordinated.

Frieze drove the boundaries of his classic British foundations with cocktail dresses made from lambswool and a long beautiful dress that was constructed by some of the most impressive jersey draping I have EVER seen. No wonder he’s dressed such power-women as Yasmini Le Bon, Lily Cole & Erin O’ Connor.

The idea is that the look reflects Elliott’s story from Country to City. From all those old-fashioned favourite textures to a bit of spectacular cinching, draping and tucking to prepare the country Lord/Lady for the London ratrace!

Much inspiration was taken from the 1970s. Therefore, just like last season, hair was big, curly and volumnous. Suitable additions of sunglasses courtesy of Persol and gloves by Southcombe set the whole look off, creating a powerful and sexy image.

If I wasn’t currently a student and could afford to invest in any up-and-coming designer, I would go straight to Elliott J. Frieze! He’s my definate one-to-watch so, if I were you, I’d keep an eye on him.

Illustration by Gilly Rochester

I have always been a huge fan of Alice Temperley; in fact my whole family has, prostate with both my 19 year old sister and my mother owning pieces by Temperley London. This is testament to the timeless nature of the designs- its a label that seems above trends and fads, healing always unmistakeably Temperley, with the monochrome patterns, flowing silhouettes and oodles of embellishment. Inspired by Venetian fans, this collection had a decidedly Spanish feel, with flared flamenco style skirts and splashes of red.The focus went back to the brand’s roots: eveningwear- with delicate tulle dresses covered with either embroidery or encrusted with crystals.

Illustration by Joana Faria

Illustration by Gemma Milly

The opulence and extravagance reminded me of Marchesa’s latest collection, and dare I say it, even some of the last McQueen pieces. Other dresses were covered in stars, harking back to Alice’s love of the circus evident in earlier collections. A collared dress with 50s style skirts brought a vintage feel to the collection, whilst stunning shoes from Charlotte Olympia kept the whole thing contemporary.

Illustration by Donya Todd

The obligatory chunky knit and even a feminine take on the tux with a ruffled shirt meant that there was actually a huge range within a collection that still managed to maintain one coherent aesthetic. Described as a ‘coming of age’ collection for Temperley, it really does prove Alice to be at the top of her game. There are no gimmicks here- just luxury, feminine, red-carpet worthy looks that your grandchildren will be whipping out as ‘vintage’ in years to come.

Illustration by Joana Faria

Illustration by Gemma Milly

Illustration by Gilly Rochester

Illustration By Artist Andrea

I was very nervous about Jasper’s show, this as I adored his Spring/Summer collection so much that I was worried my expectations would be too high. But I wasn’t disappointed- the sound of rainfall set the mood for the show, search and the slats of the more theatrical pieces replicated this noise as the models walked. One maxi-dress was tied at the waist with a belt hung with oversized keys, which clinked together as she walked. The inclusion of sounds in a catwalk show helps to make it all seem more three dimensional. Reworked, instrumental covers of 90s tunes by the likes of Nirvana also created a great soundtrack.


Whilst a number of the dresses were so ostentatious- and according to reports from friends of mine backstage, so incredibly heavy-that they are unlikely to be worn by the likes of you and me, Jasper cleverly takes the textures of these pieces and works them into accessories like clutch bags and statement ruff-style necklaces that are much easier to integrate into your real-life wardrobe.

Illustration by Artist Andrea

Inspired by the novel ‘Soie’ by Alessandro Baricco about a European man who becomes enchanted with the East, there is a distinct oriental feel to the colour palette and the silhouettes.Lace dresses with thigh-high slits and completely backless, full length evening gowns added to the sensuality of the silk and lace.

Iconic Fornasetti-inspired prints make fantastic statement pieces, as well as a knitted maxi number, the knitwear trend instigated by the likes of Craig Lawrence and Mark Fast showing no sign of dying.The hair was elegantly side-swept in a vintage-inspired up-do; a look complimented by Lucas Jack drop earrings.


Its no coincidence that my favourite shows on Friday, and so far of LFW altogether, are the two that featured lots of colour, a few show-stopping, theatrical pieces, gorgeous vintage-inspired prints, and silhouettes designed for a womanly shape.I’m referring to Prophetik and Jasper Garvida. However, both shows also share the same single criticism from me- these are sexy designs, can you please put them on women with sexier figures?They would look BETTER.Honest.The corsets of Prophetik were desperate for some heaving bosoms a la costume drama, whilst some of Jasper’s models were painfully thin.Its something I noticed at his last show too, and I’ve heard the same feedback from a number of people, even the illustrators I sent my photos to were shocked.Jasper is represented by one of the loveliest, most down-to-earth PR companies around, so I really hope they pass thes comments on to him, as its really the only criticism I have of the show.


Illustration By Artist Andrea

I was very nervous about Jasper’s show, more about as I adored his Spring/Summer collection so much that I was worried my expectations would be too high. But I wasn’t disappointed- the sound of rainfall set the mood for the show, troche and the slats of the more theatrical pieces replicated this noise as the models walked. One maxi-dress was tied at the waist with a belt hung with oversized keys, which clinked together as she walked. The inclusion of sounds in a catwalk show helps to make it all seem more three dimensional. Reworked, instrumental covers of 90s tunes by the likes of Nirvana also created a great soundtrack.

Whilst a number of the dresses were so ostentatious – and according to reports from friends of mine backstage, so incredibly heavy – that they are unlikely to be worn by the likes of you and me, Jasper cleverly takes the textures of these pieces and works them into accessories like clutch bags and statement ruff-style necklaces that are much easier to integrate into your real-life wardrobe.


Illustration by Artist Andrea.

Inspired by the novel ‘Soie’ by Alessandro Baricco about a European man who becomes enchanted with the East, there is a distinct oriental feel to the colour palette and the silhouettes.Lace dresses with thigh-high slits and completely backless, full length evening gowns added to the sensuality of the silk and lace.

Iconic Fornasetti-inspired prints make fantastic statement pieces, as well as a knitted maxi number, the knitwear trend instigated by the likes of Craig Lawrence and Mark Fast showing no sign of dying. The hair was elegantly side-swept in a vintage-inspired up-do; a look complimented by Lucas Jack drop earrings.

It’s no coincidence that my favourite shows on Friday, and so far of LFW altogether, are the two that featured lots of colour, a few show-stopping, theatrical pieces, gorgeous vintage-inspired prints, and silhouettes designed for a womanly shape.I’m referring to Prophetik and Jasper Garvida. However, both shows also share the same single criticism from me – these are sexy designs, can you please put them on women with sexier figures? They would look BETTER. Honest. The corsets of Prophetik were desperate for some heaving bosoms a la costume drama, whilst some of Jasper’s models were painfully thin. It’s something I noticed at his last show too, and I’ve heard the same feedback from a number of people, even the illustrators I sent my photos to were shocked. Jasper is represented by one of the loveliest, most down-to-earth PR companies around, so I really hope they pass thes comments on to him, as its really the only criticism I have of the show.

All photography by Katie Antoniou.

Illustrations by Ankolie

Even the invitation to this show had me excited; detail of a vintage toile print on a fabric corset lined with vintage style brass buttons and the byline ‘inspired by the court of Louis XV when art became frivolous’ grabbed my attention.Because all of this is frivolous, diagnosis isn’t it?We’re in the middle of a recession and yet here we are, medical still feeding are obsession with fashion and art because it has become such an integral part of our lives.Combining fashion and music is a big part of my job as a stylist to musicians, find so opening the show with Analize Ching on the violin was a big hit with me, followed by wonderful orchestral music that evoked the atmosphere of a French royal court.


I’d been a little underwhelmed by a lot of very drab Autumn/Winter collections, where hues vary only from black,to greys, some cream and back to black. The colours Prophetik used are all natural, with plum shades blended from madder root, rumex, logwood and indigo, and burgundy mixed from madder root, curled dock and gallnut. Adding yet more splashes of colour and prints were the quilted pieces, handed down from Jeff’s grandmother Lola from Tennesse. Hemp, cactus silk and ostrich feathers provided stunning texture and shape to the pieces. Accessories label ‘Dotted Loop’ provided reworked vintage accessories and even the shoes were made from vegetable-tanned leather.


Its rare that I can get at all excited by menswear, but the pieces in this collection spoke to the avid period-drama fan inside me. Military inspired jackets and riding boots?Phwoar.Yes please. Jeff himself appeared at the end showing how the look can be worked, though I’m sure he could probably get a way with wearing pretty much anything and still look like he just finished writing poetry/surfing/horse-riding; all listed as his hobbies.Only someone this comfortable with his masculinity could design coats for men made out of pastel pink quilts.


Corsets, tailored jackets and voluminous skirts; Jeff is very good at designing clothes for real women’s bodies.He recently dressed the lovely Livia Firth for the 2011 Golden Globes, and I can only imagine that his celebrity following will continue to increase.The final dress, ‘Mrs Moulton’ features ostrich feathers that shed naturally twice a year (from the ostrich, not the dress-that would be a high maintenance frock indeed) hand sewn on white silk and organza- I can totally picture this as a celebrity wedding dress.Watch this space.


I’ll leave you with Jeff’s take on Renaissance Art.I think it’s very interesting considering our current pre-occupation with all things vintage.
‘Renaissance art is not a rebirth as one implies, but freedom from the past. Unconcerned with what has been said or done, living in the present with an immediate relation to all things…achievement does not birth beauty but raw effort confessing its own failures and in the confession is the beauty of Art.’


Illustration by Mina Bach

If I could taste something as delish for the mouth as Elliott J. Frieze is for the eyes, stomach I’d eat it up so fast that time may go backwards. It’s my second LFW show of newcomer Elliott J. Frieze and I’m seriously beginning to LOVE this guy. Like, true sartorial love. His work needs to be up there with the best on the BFC Catwalk. NEEDS.

Illustration by Matilda Sazio

Saying that, however, he did bag a rather delectable venue anyway. Especially for his third London Fashion Week show. It was a bit of an epic walk in the rain down the entire length of the Strand, but for the beautiful Charing Cross Hotel? Well worth it. And with free champagne, who’s complaining? Not me. Well actually, me a bit… I thought ‘Great! Bit of bubbly will numb my stabbing sore throat’ – WRONG. (Note To All – 1 in 2 people at fashion week are ill like moi). After a sneaky chat with someone in the production team, Amelia, Matt and I got first dibs on seats, as well as a lovely lady from Grazia. She lent me a lush pen that had me wishing she’d forget to ask for it back. We spread ourselves amongst the front rows for different perspectives and then it was the hipsters turn to pick-and-choose. It sure felt good to have one-up on them this time! The crowds then gushed in with one lady’s hat towering tall above them all. We couldn’t help staring in the champagne reception, it genuinely looked like a Philip Treacy. Jealous.

Illustration by Kerriann Hulme

The runway for the show was unique in that it snaked around the room, this insanely beautiful ornate room. A gleaming chandelier hung high over our heads, for goodness sake. And velvet and marble was coming in from all directions. So were the clothes as luxe as the location?

Illustration by Natsuki Otani

HELL yes, they were. The collection, once again, embodied his natural design ethos, paying homage to classic British Tailoring intertwined with sexy modernity. I remember this creepy boy from my childhood wore green corduroy trousers to school everyday, so I usually REPELL corduroy. However, Elliott J. Frieze has officially turned me with suitable injections of camel-coloured corduroy – think pencil skirts and jacket details. Lush.

The whole colour pallette was perfection on the eyes. Frieze centred it around a combination of ‘caffeine mixtures’ represented by Latte, Mochas and Expresso. Considering i’m a die-hard lover of anything coffee-flavoured, this must be why i wanted to eat the collection up! Everything was very well co-ordinated.

Frieze drove the boundaries of his classic British foundations with cocktail dresses made from lambswool and a long beautiful dress that was constructed by some of the most impressive jersey draping I have EVER seen. No wonder he’s dressed such power-women as Yasmini Le Bon, Lily Cole & Erin O’ Connor.

The idea is that the look reflects Elliott’s story from Country to City. From all those old-fashioned favourite textures to a bit of spectacular cinching, draping and tucking to prepare the country Lord/Lady for the London ratrace!

Much inspiration was taken from the 1970s. Therefore, just like last season, hair was big, curly and volumnous. Suitable additions of sunglasses courtesy of Persol and gloves by Southcombe set the whole look off, creating a powerful and sexy image.

If I wasn’t currently a student and could afford to invest in any up-and-coming designer, I would go straight to Elliott J. Frieze! He’s my definate one-to-watch so, if I were you, I’d keep an eye on him.

Photos by Georgia Takacs

Illustration by Gilly Rochester

I have always been a huge fan of Alice Temperley; in fact my whole family has, visit this with both my 19 year old sister and my mother owning pieces by Temperley London. This is testament to the timeless nature of the designs- its a label that seems above trends and fads, side effects always unmistakeably Temperley, visit this site with the monochrome patterns, flowing silhouettes and oodles of embellishment. Inspired by Venetian fans, this collection had a decidedly Spanish feel, with flared flamenco style skirts and splashes of red.The focus went back to the brand’s roots: eveningwear- with delicate tulle dresses covered with either embroidery or encrusted with crystals.

Illustration by Joana Faria

Illustration by Gemma Milly

The opulence and extravagance reminded me of Marchesa’s latest collection, and dare I say it, even some of the last McQueen pieces. Other dresses were covered in stars, harking back to Alice’s love of the circus evident in earlier collections. A collared dress with 50s style skirts brought a vintage feel to the collection, whilst stunning shoes from Charlotte Olympia kept the whole thing contemporary.

Illustration by Donya Todd

The obligatory chunky knit and even a feminine take on the tux with a ruffled shirt meant that there was actually a huge range within a collection that still managed to maintain one coherent aesthetic. Described as a ‘coming of age’ collection for Temperley, it really does prove Alice to be at the top of her game. There are no gimmicks here- just luxury, feminine, red-carpet worthy looks that your grandchildren will be whipping out as ‘vintage’ in years to come.

Photos by Katie Antoniou

Illustration by Joana Faria

Illustration by Gemma Milly

Illustration by Gilly Rochester

Illustration by Jaymie O’ Callaghan

He’s the long-standing fashion designer that, information pills despite his teeny tiny height, find you could spot a mile away. Much like his clothes, visit web really. A spot-on show with a dark soundtrack, breath-taking texture and an etheral beauty about the whole thing. This was John Rocha A/W 2011…

The queues to clamber into the BFC catwalk space were pretty epic. It was more of a crowd than a queue! Upon taking my seat, I began to regret wearing layers due to sauna temperatures and not enough space around me to take off my leather jacket. People were literally using the programs as fans to cool themselves. REALLY. Not so glamorous. THE Blogging Power-Couple, Scott Schuman and Garance Dore, sat themselves on the front row along with Susie Bubble (of course) and Alexandra Schulman, Editor of Vogue UK. And then came Hilary Alexander in her signature fur hat (*growl*) who sat RIGHT there in front of me – oh the excitement. She had a good look around her, peering over the top of her glasses as she does, exchanged a few words with fellow Times writers and then sat quietly waiting for showtime.

Illustration by Mina Bach

And here we go! Alas, after spotting Neil Young’s Harvest Moon as John Rocha’s inspiration on the program I was half expecting Old Man on the playlist. Ah well. Instead some heavy dark beats a la Stone Roses boomed across the catwalk as the first model took to the runway, in black black black and a MASSIVE head piece. Most models were baring these great creations that looked like a jamaican man’s dreadlocks tied up in a heap with wool knitted into it and a ton of volumising hairspray thrown in. PHEW. How these girls were managing that AND high heels, i don’t know.

The girls’ hair were styled in sweet little braids with slick, neatly parted roots. With that and all the textures of wool and fur (*more growls*) and what appeared to be silk chiffon, I was beginning to get a rustic, hippy and elvish feel with a suitable addition of elegance. People living in wood shacks in a snowy forest sprang to mind. NATURE sprang to mind.

Model of the moment, Abbey Lee, graced the spotlight towering high and elegant above many of the male models and sporting a dread-lock-esque headpiece herself! After a series of floor skimming gothic-looking gowns, it was time for some colour injection with browns, creams and bold under-skirt splashings of bold red, including a big painted tribal design that followed the hem of a floor-length skirt. It was a show full of twists and turns and surprises.

The lights dimmed and there was a moment of stillness before John Rocha, hand placed on chest as if deeply emotional with gratitude, led all models and creations up and down the catwalk, linking arms with Abbey Lee. She bent down to kiss him on the cheek infront of the cameras before he rushed off stage, clapping the audience saying thank you. A gracious finale to a glorious show!

Photographs by Georgia Takacs

Categories ,Abbey Lee, ,Jaymie O’Callaghan, ,John Rocha, ,LFW A/W 2011, ,Mina Bach., ,plaits

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Editor’s Christmas Gift Guide

2London Undercover
If you’re looking for a quirky present this Christmas why not opt for an umbrella with a twist? London undercover is a new brand which specialises in quintessentially British umbrellas. With designs ranging from Full English breakfast and Café tablecloth, page Fish & Chips wrapped in newspaper, unconventional Union Jacks, Hounds Tooth and Plaid designs there is something for everyone. Prices start at £40.

EJF_luellaEthical Justice Foundation
Giles Deacon, Zandra Rhodes, Allegra Hicks, John Rocha, Luella, Christian Lacroix, Betty Jackson and Katharine Hamnett have all designed exclusive prints for a collection of t-shirts in aid of The Environmental Justice Foundation (EJF) produced on organic and fairly traded cotton and printed with organic certified inks. This great capsule collection of T-shirts are designed to help raise awareness and funds for EJF’s Cotton Campaign to end child labour and the use of dangerous pesticides in cotton production while promoting the benefits of organic, fairly traded fashion. Prices start at £30.

xmaslife72Mr P.S
If you’re looking to pick up something festive for the Christmas table in the coming weeks why not opt for this Cranberry themed 100% cotton tea towel, also available in Lime. Priced at £8.50.

mini-case-4-35373Paul Smith
As one of the UK’s forefront fashion designers it comes as no surprise that Sir Paul Smith has teamed up with computer software giants Apple to create a range of limited edition accessories just in time for Christmas. Pick up one of these Mac book 15” Mini Cooper sleeves bearing Sir Paul’s signature multistripe. Several products are available offered in a choice of sizes, fabrics and prints. Case pictured priced at £89.

JTA02-AW09-1

Equa
If you’re on the hunt for a more meaningful gift to give this festive season why not opt for the Just Trade 5 a Day Brooch, a quirky vegetable brooch, handmade from organic Peruvian cotton. All brooches are hand made by the Zoe Project which provides training and fairly paid work for women living in some of the poorest shanty towns in Lima, Peru. Designs also available are corn-on-the-cob, beetroot, peas-in-a-pod, red pepper, cauliflower and broccoli. Priced at £9.

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DIY Couture
DIYcouture is a fantastic website which publishes books that allow people to make personally tailored clothing without couture price-tags, and affordable clothing that has not been made using sweatshop labour. Each book teaches the reader to make one piece of clothing from the DIYcouture collection. The books are an evolution of and a step away from traditional sewing patterns. They use colourful computer designed diagrams and photography to guide novice sewers through the making process. Priced at £9.

file_2_6Matt and Nat
It’s not often that I write about the same brand twice in one week however, so impressed were we with their wares it felt right to include them in the gift guide too. After all which eco contentious fashion savvy woman wouldn’t want one of these on her arm? Pick up this vegan ‘Chi’ leather wallet with grey lining, tone on tone stitching, antique brass and copper hardware, and embossed MATT & NAT logo on front. Priced at £50.

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Pants to poverty
Pants to Poverty is a new kind of underwear on a mission to rid the world of bad pants! These organic, safe sex pants are made from 97% organic and fair-trade cotton and 3% lycra and even come with a fairly traded French Letter condom made from natural latex – impressed yet? With £1 per pair of pants sold going to the Treatment Action Campaign in South Africa (TAC), the money raised will support essential work empowering people to access lifesaving treatment in some of the worst affected regions in the world. Priced at £11.99.

All images courtesy of the brands written about, all there is left to say is Merry Christmas x

Categories ,Allegra Hicks, ,Apple, ,Betty Jackson, ,Christian Lacroix, ,DIY Couture, ,Equa, ,Giles Deacon, ,John Rocha, ,Katharine Hamnett, ,London Undercover, ,Luella, ,Matt and Nat, ,Mini Cooper, ,Mr P.S, ,Pants to Poverty, ,Paul Smith, ,Treatment Action Campaign, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Listings 16-22 November

 

 

 ghost forest

Angela Palmer’s Ghost Forest

Mediumly-interesting fact: Nelson’s Column stands at 169 feet. The relevance of this morsel? Angela Palmer’s new installation of rainforest tree stumps in Trafalgar Square, purchase pharmacy which would once have stood as tall as the Column but now are rather lower to the ground, unhealthy buy more about more roots than trunks. Palmer’s work is intended to highlight the destruction of the rainforest. Much better than the 4th plinth people. That didn’t quite work did it?

 braun record player dieter rams

Dieter Rams @ The Design Museum

The Design Museum is excellent because it gets down to business: if you can’t sit on it or reasonably hang it on the wall, use it to build bridges or fill a teacup, you won’t find it there. This ethos of substance as well as style echoes the title of the current Dieter Rams exhibition, “Less and More”. He was Head of Design at Braun and every time you see something ergonomic and pleasing to look at on an appliance, like an iPhone for instance, you can see his influence. His ten design principles:

Good design is innovative.
Good design makes a product useful.
Good design is aesthetic.
Good design makes a product understandable.
Good design is unobtrusive.
Good design is honest.
Good design is long-lasting.
Good design is thorough down to the last detail.
Good design is environmentally friendly.
Good design is as little design as possible.

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C Words: carbon, climate, capital, culture @ Arnolfini Gallery in Bristol

How can I persuade you polar bears are relevant to this event?  Well, polar bears reflect our confused feelings about climate change: yes, they’re cute but they’d also happily rip off your head and eat your brain. Only through constructive debate can we resolve our feelings.

C Words is a two-month build-up to Copenhagen, using a multitude of free events, installations and discussions to generate interest and action on the topics of carbon emissions, our changing climate, capitalist structures and the culture wars. More about active engagement than simply mulling over points, PLATFORM, a group of artist-activists, aims to question how culture will grow up in the context of a low-carbon future.

bob and roberta smith

Bob & Robert Smith @ Beaconsfield

Bob and Roberta Smith, who is actually one person, will be showing their/his works to celebrate and commiserate the end of their/his residency at the roomy “Factory Outlet” space at Beaconsfield in Vauxhall. Smith is known for painting signs and there are references to the previous usage of the space, as a “ragged school” for poor little boys and girls to learn to read, in the use of text.

 cornelia parker

Passing Thoughts and Making Plans @ Jerwood Space

This exhibition at the Jerwood Space takes the tack that seeing the process behind an artwork is interesting in itself. This isn’t always the case – looking at the sketches for a work do sometimes make you grateful for the myriad choices the artist had to make to get it to the end result but it can also be a bit boring. This exhibition focuses (ha!) on artists who use photography as part of their process and escapes boredom by including interesting artists such as Cornelia Parker and Rachel Whiteread, whose work you can imagine hinges on perfect recollection of spaces. I am persuaded about this exhibition, but I will never be persuaded about “alternative versions” of songs at the end of special edition albums.
EJF

Image courtesy of Environmental Justice Foundation

ENVIRONMNENTAL JUSTICE FOUNDATION POP-UP STORE
13-27 NOVEMBER (MON-SAT: 10-7PM, viagra 100mg SUN: 12-6PM)
WHITE GOLD, 1ST FLOOR, KINGLY COURT, W1
FREE ENTRY
Over the coming fortnight the Environmental Justice Foundation charity will be setting up shop in the heart of London’s Carnaby Street to help raise awareness of forced child labour and environmental abuses in cotton production. The EJF pop-up store will be selling a limited edition range of T-shirts designed in collaboration with fashion heavyweights such as Luella, Giles Deacon, Zandra Rhodes, John Rocha, Betty Jackson, Christian Lacroix, Allegra Hicks, Katharine Hamnett, Jenny Packham, Alice Temperley, Richard Nicoll and Ciel. EJF will also be stocking 100 shopper bags designed by Eley Kishimoto which will retail at the bargain price of £10 or come free when you spend over £50 in store. As they sold out like hot potatoes at LFW last month make sure you get there while stock lasts.

ASSEMBLY THRIFT STORE OPENING
19 NOVEMBER
THE WATERMAN’S BUILDING, ASSEMBLY PASSAGE, E1
FREE ENTRY
This week sees the lovely chaps behind the East End Thrift Store open a new shop called Assembly just off Brick Lane. As an expansion of the existing space in Whitechapel, Assembly aims to bring together the most eclectic and unique vintage finds in clothing, accessories, jewellery, quilts, fabrics and even rare books. Situated within a disused factory the shop space has been created to resemble a New York loft which will also be used to host exhibitions and installations and installations by young contemporary artists.

1110-Paul-Smith-banner-1Image courtesy of Paul Smith

PAUL SMITH SAMPLE SALE
19-21 NOVEMBER (THURS/FRI: 9-7PM, SAT: 10-5PM)
PRINCES HOUSE, 37 KINGSWAY, WC2
FREE ENTRY
World renowned for his offbeat and unique designs British fashion legend Sir Paul Smith is holding a three day sample sale later this week. Look out for his trademark striped suits and floral dresses at heavily discounted prices.

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Image courtesy of the Victoria & Albert Museum

CELEBRATE OUR FASCINATION WITH HAIR
FRIDAY 20TH NOVEMBER (6:30-10PM)
V&A MUSEUM: SACKLER CENTRE, CROMWELL ROAD, SW7
FREE ENTRY
If you’re looking to change your image or simply want a new hairdo for the festive season than treat yourself to a makeover courtesy of London College of Fashion students. Head down to the V&A to take part in a fashion illustration workshop and watch an A-list make up demonstration led by LCF’s partner institution the Hong Kong Design Institute. For those who are less keen on having a student get to grips with your locks you can always experiment and try new hairstyles digitally.

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Image courtesy of Ethical Fashion Forum

GLOBAL SOURCING MARKETPLACE
20-21 NOVEMBER (FRI: 10-7PM, SAT: 10:30-5PM)
CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN, 16 JOHN ISLIP STREET, SW1
£20 FOR UNLIMITED ACCESS OVER BOTH DAYS
Later this week the Ethical Fashion Forum will be hosting a two-day ethical sourcing marketplace which will bring together an array of brands, retailers, manufacturers and cooperatives working to high ethical standards. This yearly event aims to create opportunities for suppliers with the overall goal being to reduce the environmental impact of the industry, support fair and equitable trade, and reduce poverty. The event gives industry professionals and consumers an opportunity to network with suppliers and gain information about ways to get involved through a series of seminars and talks.

DESIGNER SALES UK SAMPLE SALE
20-22 NOVEMBER (FRI: 11-9PM, SAT: 11-8PM, SUN: 11-5:30PM)
85 BRICKLANE, E1
£2 ENTRY, £1 CONCESSIONS
Brainchild of Elaine Foster-Gandey, the DSUK website was founded 20 years ago and is the first in its kind to sell samples and stock directly from the biggest fashion houses to customers at seriously discounted prices. Currently gearing up for their fourth sample sale of the year later this week, expect to find great value womenswear, menswear, kidswear and accessories. With over 100 different labels to choose from during this three day shopping extravaganza you’re sure to find a bargain.

Categories ,Alice Temperley, ,Allegra Hicks, ,Assembly, ,Betty Jackson, ,Christian Lacroix, ,ciel, ,Designer Sales UK, ,East End Thrift Store, ,Eley Kishimoto, ,Environmental Justice Foundation, ,Ethical Fashion Forum, ,Giles Deacon, ,Global Sourcing Marketplace, ,Hong Kong Design Institute, ,Jenny Packham, ,John Rocha, ,Katharine Hamnett, ,Kingly Court, ,London College of Fashion, ,Luella, ,Paul Smith, ,Richard Nicoll, ,va, ,Zandra Rhodes

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