Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: John Rocha

John Rocha SS 2012 by Sarah Harman
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Sarah Harman

Harold Tillman, information pills Hilary Alexander and James Goldstein were just a few of the fashion bigwigs to take their prime seating positions in anticipation of the latest John Rocha collection. This was much the same scenario when I attended Rocha’s show last season and the high-flying professionals seem to have become a favoured crowd for Rocha’s front row. And it’s not surprising when, information pills needless to say, cure the designer is a long-standing, treasured feature of London Fashion Week who is widely celebrated and, most of all, respected.

John Rocha by Duilio Marconi 1

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi 2

Model Abbey Lee Kershaw opened the show and took to the runway in the opening outfit. Sporting an all-black voluminous textured dress, her entrance had photographers’ flashes illuminating the BFC tent. Kershaw, who was finally dubbed a supermodel this year by V magazine, had also been presented as a key feature in Rocha’s A/W 2011 show back in February, suggesting that Rocha has seemingly taken quite a shine to the 24 year-old Australian.

John Rocha SS 2012 LFW by Nicola Ellen 2
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Also just like last season, (Rocha loves his traditions!) the models were styled with wind-swept nymph hair and long braided plaits. Make-up was minimal, pure and simple with pale fresh-faced skin and nude colouring; an overall effortless ethereal look to compliment John Rocha’s signature design ethic.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Much to their delight, I’m sure, John Rocha was one designer that gave models’ skinny-pins a short break from killer heels. In their place were black platformed flat sandals, adding an updated feminine grunge look (minus all the pain!).

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

 Rocha SS 2012 LFW by Nicola Ellen 1
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

To name a few of the many more intricacies that went into Rocha’s elaborately crafted collection, ribbons were attached to hair and hung long next to plaits and all models sported either wire or feather headdresses. The problem with this idea was that because Abbey had opened the show in a wired headdress with black feathers, I was almost convinced that a major fashion disaster had occurred. Models were appearing with bare wire headdresses; no feathers. They looked absolutely bizarre so I naturally assumed that their feathers must have fallen off. What a nightmare, I thought. This wasn’t the case at all. It was purposeful. Just John Rocha keeping us on our toes, I suppose.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Just as was the case with his A/W11 collection, the colour palette was ultra-minimal with neutral tones dominating throughout. In fact, there were only three colours on the agenda; all rich-black ensembles led to cream creations which then led to head-to-toe stark white. With only black, cream and white, the focus shifted away from colour to texture instead. Texture was intricately and ornately crafted with Abbey’s opening black raffia dress, raw raffia that made up other ensembles, loops of black rubber and Lurex threads intertwined in the cream and white garments.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha Catwalk LFW by Nicola Ellen jpg
John Rocha S/S 2012 by Nicola Ellen

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi

Towering tall over John Rocha, Abbey Lee Kershaw once again led the Hong Kong born designer down the catwalk for another of his gracious finales. And, as has become tradition, he placed a kiss on Abbey‘s cheek at the feet of the snapping papz, and then John Rocha was off, thanking and bowing to the audience as he went.

John Rocha SS 2012 by Duilio Marconi
All photography by Duilio Marconi

Categories ,Abbey Lee Kershaw, ,Amelia’s Magazine, ,BFC Catwalk Space, ,BFC Showspace, ,BFC Tent, ,black, ,british fashion council, ,Cream, ,Debenhams Rocha, ,Duilio Marconi, ,Georgia Takacs, ,Harold Tillman, ,Headdresses, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Hong Kong, ,James Goldstein, ,John Rocha, ,lfw, ,LFW S/S 2012, ,LFW S/S12, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,London Fashion Week S/S12, ,Lurex, ,Myth, ,Mythologies, ,Myths, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Nymphs, ,Raffia, ,Rubber, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Harman, ,Simone Rocha, ,Somerset House, ,Texture, ,Warriors, ,White

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Amelia’s Magazine | Stag and Dagger 2011 review: CocknBullKid, Our Mountain, Marques Toliver, James Yuill

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee Kershaw
Abbey Lee Kershaw of Our Mountain, medical playing at the Stag and Dagger 2011.

I started my Stag and Dagger journey at Camp on City Road, ampoule a grotty basement venue with minimal light and sound. I was there to see the CocknBullKid, who is set to release her second album Adulthood on Monday, and with whom I have just done an interview that you’ll be able to read next week. She has a name that is very at odds with her cute and slightly old fashioned demeanour, all flirty stage mannerisms.

CocknBullKid Stag and Dagger 2011

We interviewed her many years ago for a profile in the print version of Amelia’s Magazine and she’s grown in confidence dramatically since I last saw her live, rattling through her highly danceable newest songs to the delight of the heavily female audience. But it was a real shame that the lighting was so bad, CocknBullKid‘s face hidden in deep shadow for the entire gig, with her legs instead enjoying the spotlight.

CocknBullKid Stag and Dagger 2011

Then it was on to see Our Mountain in Underbelly, where a thin blonde girl in long robes was clanging a chain dramatically against a drum as lead singer Matthew Hutchinson yowled centre stage.

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee KershawOur Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee Kershaw

The gothic girl may have looked like an elf from The Dark Crystal but I was soon to discover that she’s actually a famous model from Australia called Abbey Lee Kershaw, a catwalk star who has worked for the likes of Gucci and Chanel. Which would explain why lots of people wanted a photograph with her post gig. Her boyfriend Matthew is an ex model himself and wasn’t so bad on the eye either.

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Matthew Hutchinson Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Matthew Hutchinson

The thrashing psychedelia of Our Mountain was delivered with great panache – definitely ones to watch.

YouTube Preview Image
Current single: Wooden Hearts.

From there we attempted to see perhaps the most famous band of the festival, New Young Pony Club over at The Macbeth (another Amelia’s Magazine find back in the day) but were unable to get in, so then it was back to Underbelly for Marques Toliver, a former busker from Brooklyn who sings and plays the violin, using it to pluck out a simple back beat over which his gorgeous soulful voice carries the melody.

Marques Toliver Stag and Dagger 2011 Underbelly

It was a beguiling show and the packed audience listened in near silent rapture.

YouTube Preview Image

I’m a bit partial to danceable indie electronica with a good melody so it was good to round off the evening with a bop to James Yuill back at Camp, where he performed amidst his bedroom ensemble of keyboards, drum machine and guitar. He thoroughly endeared himself to many of the male audience members by calling himself a bit of a dick. For my part I was utterly transfixed by the beautiful coloured visuals.

James Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 Camp

This year Stag and Dagger was much more lo fi and all the better for it – gone were the hoards of pissed up city boys, replaced by true music lovers. It’s a great place to discover little known and up and coming talents – here’s to many more Stag and Daggers to come…

Categories ,Abbey Lee Kershaw, ,Adulthood, ,australia, ,camp, ,CocknBullKid, ,James Yuill, ,Marques Toliver, ,Matthew Hutchinson, ,model, ,new york, ,New Young Pony Club, ,Our Mountain, ,shoreditch, ,Stag and Dagger, ,The Dark Crystal, ,The Macbeth, ,Underbelly, ,Wooden Hearts

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Amelia’s Magazine | Stag and Dagger 2011 review: CocknBullKid, Our Mountain, Marques Toliver, James Yuill

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee Kershaw
Abbey Lee Kershaw of Our Mountain, playing at the Stag and Dagger 2011.

I started my Stag and Dagger journey at Camp on City Road, a grotty basement venue with minimal light and sound. I was there to see the CocknBullKid, who is set to release her second album Adulthood on Monday, and with whom I have just done an interview that you’ll be able to read next week. She has a name that is very at odds with her cute and slightly old fashioned demeanour, all flirty stage mannerisms.

CocknBullKid Stag and Dagger 2011

We interviewed her many years ago for a profile in the print version of Amelia’s Magazine and she’s grown in confidence dramatically since I last saw her live, rattling through her highly danceable newest songs to the delight of the heavily female audience. But it was a real shame that the lighting was so bad, CocknBullKid’s face hidden in deep shadow for the entire gig, with her legs instead enjoying the spotlight.

CocknBullKid Stag and Dagger 2011

Then it was on to see Our Mountain in Underbelly, where a thin blonde girl in long robes was clanging a chain dramatically against a drum as lead singer Matthew Hutchinson yowled centre stage.

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee KershawOur Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee Kershaw

The gothic girl may have looked like an elf from The Dark Crystal but I was soon to discover that she’s actually a famous model from Australia called Abbey Lee Kershaw, a catwalk star who has worked for the likes of Gucci and Chanel. Which would explain why lots of people wanted a photograph with her post gig. Her boyfriend Matthew is an ex model himself and wasn’t so bad on the eye either.

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Matthew Hutchinson Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Matthew Hutchinson

The thrashing psychedelia of Our Mountain was delivered with great panache – definitely ones to watch.

YouTube Preview Image
Current single: Wooden Hearts.

From there we attempted to see perhaps the most famous band of the festival, New Young Pony Club over at The Macbeth (another Amelia’s Magazine find back in the day) but were unable to get in, so then it was back to Underbelly for Marques Toliver, a former busker from Brooklyn who sings and plays the violin, using it to pluck out a simple back beat over which his gorgeous soulful voice carries the melody.

Marques Toliver Stag and Dagger 2011 Underbelly

It was a beguiling show and the packed audience listened in near silent rapture.

YouTube Preview Image

I’m a bit partial to danceable indie electronica with a good melody so it was good to round off the evening with a bop to James Yuill back at Camp, where he performed amidst his bedroom ensemble of keyboards, drum machine and guitar. He thoroughly endeared himself to many of the male audience members by calling himself a bit of a dick. For my part I was utterly transfixed by the beautiful coloured visuals.

James Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 Camp

This year Stag and Dagger was much more lo fi and all the better for it – gone were the hoards of pissed up city boys, replaced by true music lovers. It’s a great place to discover little known and up and coming talents – here’s to many more Stag and Daggers to come…

Categories ,Abbey Lee Kershaw, ,Adulthood, ,australia, ,camp, ,CocknBullKid, ,James Yuill, ,Marques Toliver, ,Matthew Hutchinson, ,model, ,new york, ,New Young Pony Club, ,Our Mountain, ,shoreditch, ,Stag and Dagger, ,The Dark Crystal, ,The Macbeth, ,Underbelly, ,Wooden Hearts

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