Amelia’s Magazine | Dior Illustrated: René Gruau and the Line of Beauty at Somerset House

Few people have changed the world of fashion and people’s perception of femininity as Christian Dior. Revered in his own lifetime as a fashion god at the forefront of post-war modernity with his celebrated ‘New Look’. At his side was friend and lifelong collaborator René Gruau who would create some of the most enduring fashion images of the 20th century.

In the third of its fashion based exhibitions Somerset House has gathered together a strong collection of Gruau’s work from the 1950s right up until the time he finished working with the house of Dior in the 1980s.

Whether translating Dior’s floral inspiration or producing illustrations for the ever masculine Eau Sauvage fragrance, rx seek it is the simplicity in Gruau’s work that always jumps to the fore. All at once the work is of its own time but also undoubtedly modern and timeless. The exhibition takes you through several distinct elements of Gruau’s work and his progression as an illustrator of not just Dior but the inspirations of the time are clear.

The collection is divided into sections including Gruau’s Flower Woman and his work on Gesture and Attitude, cost which contains some of his most recognised works. Also present is a series of L’Homme Gruau. When Gruau first illustrated for the Eau Sauvage fragrance the worked caused quite a stir for showing a man in the intimacy of just his bathrobe. Gruau would continue to push this further in future pieces, this such as the scandalous naked man shaving concealed in shadow.

The sincere friendship between Dior and Gruau can be seen throughout the collaborative works; a shared vision of two of the most creative men of the 20th century. The exhibition highlights Gruau’s influences in several pieces such as Japanese prints. Accompanying the illustrations (behind a rather heavy gauze) are several pieces of Dior Haute Couture. The New Look coat is a sight to be hold, as is the painted dress from the Autumn/Winter couture collection 2010 by John Galliano, displaying both Christian Dior and René Gruau’s enduring influence.The final part of the exhibition shows the dramatic influence Gruau has had on the world of fashion illustration with a collection of contemporary works by modern artists.

At £6 this exhibition isn;t expensive in comparison to large-scale London exhibitions, but at the same time it isn’t enormous. However, for anyone with even a passing interest in Dior, the 1950s, contemporary culture, advertising or illustration this exhibition is a must see. Photography is not allowed of the exhibits so make sure you spend your time soaking in the work: the clarity of the lines, the extensive range of techniques, the boundaries pushed – from a time before Illustrator or Photoshop were even dreamed of.

For visiting information, visit the Somerset House website.

Categories ,1950s, ,20th Century, ,Advertising, ,Christian Dior, ,Eau Sauvage, ,exhibition, ,fashion, ,Haute Couture, ,illustration, ,illustrator, ,L’Homme, ,london, ,New Look, ,Nick Bain, ,Perfume, ,Photoshop, ,Réne Gruau, ,review, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Stag and Dagger 2011 review: CocknBullKid, Our Mountain, Marques Toliver, James Yuill

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee Kershaw
Abbey Lee Kershaw of Our Mountain, medical playing at the Stag and Dagger 2011.

I started my Stag and Dagger journey at Camp on City Road, ampoule a grotty basement venue with minimal light and sound. I was there to see the CocknBullKid, who is set to release her second album Adulthood on Monday, and with whom I have just done an interview that you’ll be able to read next week. She has a name that is very at odds with her cute and slightly old fashioned demeanour, all flirty stage mannerisms.

CocknBullKid Stag and Dagger 2011

We interviewed her many years ago for a profile in the print version of Amelia’s Magazine and she’s grown in confidence dramatically since I last saw her live, rattling through her highly danceable newest songs to the delight of the heavily female audience. But it was a real shame that the lighting was so bad, CocknBullKid‘s face hidden in deep shadow for the entire gig, with her legs instead enjoying the spotlight.

CocknBullKid Stag and Dagger 2011

Then it was on to see Our Mountain in Underbelly, where a thin blonde girl in long robes was clanging a chain dramatically against a drum as lead singer Matthew Hutchinson yowled centre stage.

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee KershawOur Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee Kershaw

The gothic girl may have looked like an elf from The Dark Crystal but I was soon to discover that she’s actually a famous model from Australia called Abbey Lee Kershaw, a catwalk star who has worked for the likes of Gucci and Chanel. Which would explain why lots of people wanted a photograph with her post gig. Her boyfriend Matthew is an ex model himself and wasn’t so bad on the eye either.

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Matthew Hutchinson Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Matthew Hutchinson

The thrashing psychedelia of Our Mountain was delivered with great panache – definitely ones to watch.

YouTube Preview Image
Current single: Wooden Hearts.

From there we attempted to see perhaps the most famous band of the festival, New Young Pony Club over at The Macbeth (another Amelia’s Magazine find back in the day) but were unable to get in, so then it was back to Underbelly for Marques Toliver, a former busker from Brooklyn who sings and plays the violin, using it to pluck out a simple back beat over which his gorgeous soulful voice carries the melody.

Marques Toliver Stag and Dagger 2011 Underbelly

It was a beguiling show and the packed audience listened in near silent rapture.

YouTube Preview Image

I’m a bit partial to danceable indie electronica with a good melody so it was good to round off the evening with a bop to James Yuill back at Camp, where he performed amidst his bedroom ensemble of keyboards, drum machine and guitar. He thoroughly endeared himself to many of the male audience members by calling himself a bit of a dick. For my part I was utterly transfixed by the beautiful coloured visuals.

James Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 Camp

This year Stag and Dagger was much more lo fi and all the better for it – gone were the hoards of pissed up city boys, replaced by true music lovers. It’s a great place to discover little known and up and coming talents – here’s to many more Stag and Daggers to come…

Categories ,Abbey Lee Kershaw, ,Adulthood, ,australia, ,camp, ,CocknBullKid, ,James Yuill, ,Marques Toliver, ,Matthew Hutchinson, ,model, ,new york, ,New Young Pony Club, ,Our Mountain, ,shoreditch, ,Stag and Dagger, ,The Dark Crystal, ,The Macbeth, ,Underbelly, ,Wooden Hearts

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Amelia’s Magazine | Stag and Dagger 2011 review: CocknBullKid, Our Mountain, Marques Toliver, James Yuill

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee Kershaw
Abbey Lee Kershaw of Our Mountain, playing at the Stag and Dagger 2011.

I started my Stag and Dagger journey at Camp on City Road, a grotty basement venue with minimal light and sound. I was there to see the CocknBullKid, who is set to release her second album Adulthood on Monday, and with whom I have just done an interview that you’ll be able to read next week. She has a name that is very at odds with her cute and slightly old fashioned demeanour, all flirty stage mannerisms.

CocknBullKid Stag and Dagger 2011

We interviewed her many years ago for a profile in the print version of Amelia’s Magazine and she’s grown in confidence dramatically since I last saw her live, rattling through her highly danceable newest songs to the delight of the heavily female audience. But it was a real shame that the lighting was so bad, CocknBullKid’s face hidden in deep shadow for the entire gig, with her legs instead enjoying the spotlight.

CocknBullKid Stag and Dagger 2011

Then it was on to see Our Mountain in Underbelly, where a thin blonde girl in long robes was clanging a chain dramatically against a drum as lead singer Matthew Hutchinson yowled centre stage.

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee KershawOur Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Abbey Lee Kershaw

The gothic girl may have looked like an elf from The Dark Crystal but I was soon to discover that she’s actually a famous model from Australia called Abbey Lee Kershaw, a catwalk star who has worked for the likes of Gucci and Chanel. Which would explain why lots of people wanted a photograph with her post gig. Her boyfriend Matthew is an ex model himself and wasn’t so bad on the eye either.

Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Matthew Hutchinson Our Mountain Stag and Dagger 2011 Matthew Hutchinson

The thrashing psychedelia of Our Mountain was delivered with great panache – definitely ones to watch.

YouTube Preview Image
Current single: Wooden Hearts.

From there we attempted to see perhaps the most famous band of the festival, New Young Pony Club over at The Macbeth (another Amelia’s Magazine find back in the day) but were unable to get in, so then it was back to Underbelly for Marques Toliver, a former busker from Brooklyn who sings and plays the violin, using it to pluck out a simple back beat over which his gorgeous soulful voice carries the melody.

Marques Toliver Stag and Dagger 2011 Underbelly

It was a beguiling show and the packed audience listened in near silent rapture.

YouTube Preview Image

I’m a bit partial to danceable indie electronica with a good melody so it was good to round off the evening with a bop to James Yuill back at Camp, where he performed amidst his bedroom ensemble of keyboards, drum machine and guitar. He thoroughly endeared himself to many of the male audience members by calling himself a bit of a dick. For my part I was utterly transfixed by the beautiful coloured visuals.

James Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 CampJames Yuill Stag and Dagger 2011 Camp

This year Stag and Dagger was much more lo fi and all the better for it – gone were the hoards of pissed up city boys, replaced by true music lovers. It’s a great place to discover little known and up and coming talents – here’s to many more Stag and Daggers to come…

Categories ,Abbey Lee Kershaw, ,Adulthood, ,australia, ,camp, ,CocknBullKid, ,James Yuill, ,Marques Toliver, ,Matthew Hutchinson, ,model, ,new york, ,New Young Pony Club, ,Our Mountain, ,shoreditch, ,Stag and Dagger, ,The Dark Crystal, ,The Macbeth, ,Underbelly, ,Wooden Hearts

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