Amelia’s Magazine | Orla Kiely: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Presentation Review

Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman
Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman.

I forgot to apply for tickets to what was a very oversubscribed show, so it was lucky that I saw any of Orla Kiely‘s presentation this season – right at the end, when I managed to scoot in with some Polish friends I had run into in the queue outside the Elms Lesters Painting Rooms.

Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

Once again the label had set up an intricate set, with digital prints of the wide African plains plastered across the walls: for S/S 2014 the Orla girl is on safari, dressed in immaculate style. She wears cute separates with a subtle military influence in the form of jaunty berets, epaulette detailing and handy patch pockets. Camo colours are given a seasonal uplift with injections of powder pink, tomato orange and dusty blue. Subtle prints come in the form of a ditsy pink lion scattered across a sweet summer dress and bolder zebra and giraffe designs. Origami elephants and rhinos adorn shoulder bags and shoppers, whilst tiger faces feature on the cutest of leather purses. The set was more cluttered than the wonderful typing pool of last season, with objects artfully arranged to suggest the theme and the girls clustered around a fireside, relaxing with a book, or painting. For the models it must be a very fun show to take part in. And did I mention the collaboration with Clarks? I’m already lusting after a pair of patent platformed bi-colour Orla Mariannes.

Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman
Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman.

Orla Kiely SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Orla Kiely SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Orla Kiely SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman
Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman.

Orla Kiely SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Orla Kiely SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Orla Kiely S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Clarks, ,Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, ,Laura Hickman, ,Orla Kiely, ,Orla Mariannes, ,review, ,S/S 2014, ,Safari, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | Inspired by Illustration: An interview with jewellery designer Annabelle Lucilla

Annabelle Lucilla by Laura Hickman
Annabelle Lucilla by Laura Hickman.

I first ran across the beautiful illustrated etched designs of Annabelle Lucilla at the One Year On exhibition at New Designers 2013, and her work instantly caught my eye. When it turned out that she knew me from using social media an instant rapport was born. Here Annabelle talks us through her inspiration and design process: and explains why you must never underestimate the power of online networking in building your career in the creative industries.

Annabelle Lucilla hovering hummingbird design
Annabelle Lucilla: hovering hummingbird design.

When did you start to combine your love of illustration and jewellery to create ‘Metallic Graphics’, and how did it all start out?
I have always drawn intricately; my mum is an illustrator so I acquire that from her. I started to create jewellery when I was around 13, but I didn’t combine these two techniques until I was in my 2nd year of my Jewellery and Silversmithing degree. I initially set out to study Surface Pattern design at London College of Fashion. However, I felt like I could always come back to textile design, after I had learnt a technical skill that would set me apart from others. Discovering etching was a ‘bingo’ moment for me as I was always chasing after the idea of making an illustration into a wearable, permanent object, which had character and form. My Illustrations started out as large ‘motif’ stories, and then I created certain singular characters to go in the story. They are based around mythical tales, ancient cultures and lands and symbolism.

Annabelle Lucilla Jewellery by Daniel Alexander
Annabelle Lucilla Jewellery by Daniel Alexander.

What was the best thing about studying at Sir John Cass?
I very much enjoyed my 3 years of study at the Cass, especially being able to explore a wide range of processes and techniques. Most of all I was allowed to find my niche aesthetic, as many find that difficult when producing their final degree collection. I was quite sure about what I wanted my collection to look like, as well as what techniques I wanted to combine. I was given the opportunity to take part in a range of competitions and selling opportunities which helped me learn about creating a commercial collection. I also worked with a wide range of materials and finishes, such as resin, horn, aluminium, leather, rubber, powder coating, anodizing and not forgetting etching!

Annabelle Lucilla Jewellery, Peacock necklace
Can you tell us more about the inspiration behind your first major collection?
My debut collection, Oriental Embodiments is very decadent, yet classical. There are definite hints of Ancient Grecian and Indian patternation and form. I got a lot of inspiration from looking at Indian bodily adornment, and how they decorate every part of their bodies in jewels and chains and droplets. I wanted to reinvent some traditional techniques such as Filigree and stone setting, and so I contemporized and refined them to give them a modern feel. The collection features etched, hollow Peacocks, which originate from my hand drawn illustration. This was the connection to India, and they have a very regal, majestic aura, which I wanted the collection to reflect. I juxtaposed these curvilinear forms with geometric forms to give a sense of balance and modernity.

Annabelle Lucilla Jewellery by Zo Bevan
Annabelle Lucilla Jewellery by Zo Bevan.

How do you envisage your jewellery been worn?
The purpose of my debut commercial collection was to give the consumer a more wearable version of the large, decadent items I made for my degree collection. I want my jewellery to be worn as everyday staple accessories, with an added hint of glamour and luxury. The designs I created were envisaged to be worn by all ages, not one particular group of people. The collection consists of some classical, dainty earrings, large statement necklaces and cool, contemporary rings and bracelets.

Annabelle Lucilla Jewllery, Gold Oriental Peacock Earrings
What did you learn on the Crafts Council Hot House programme?
This programme was an amazing experience. Subjects ranged from making a business plan to pricing your product correctly. From learning about how to plan financially for the year ahead, to learning about what your work is all about and then in turn who your target market is. What was helpful was that it was spread over 6 months, and tailored directly to your specific practice. You could improve your business as the course progressed. I met so many wonderful people, and having my Hot House ‘Buddy’ Imogen Belfield was so much help, as I could have regular meetings to go over aspects of my business. Overall, it is a programme I would wholly recommend to anyone wanting to start or improve their business.

Annabelle Lucilla by Annabel Dover
Annabelle Lucilla by Annabel Dover.

Which other creatives do you recommend we should check out?
I would recommend people to take a look at Sophie Harley’s jewellery. She is someone I admire greatly, and who creates exquisite, storytale pieces. I love that there is real meaning behind her designs, and people always connect with her designs for this reason.

Oriental Peacock Earrings Annabelle Lucilla Hastings
What is it like working at Cockpit Arts?
Cockpit Arts is a fantastic collection of designers and makers. Being part of a large community makes you feel like there is always someone to help you if you need advice. It is a wonderful start for me as I only launched my business in January 2013, and the collection was finished in April and so having a professional studio to go to and work makes all the difference when you want to be taken seriously with your profession. The Open Studios in June and November are great selling opportunities, as the public is brought to you, and they are fascinated to see the designers in their working studios.

Annabelle Lucilla Jewllery Silver Oriental Peacock Necklace
You’ve already done extremely well; securing loads of awards and bursaries in a very short time period. What are your top tips for gaining recognition as a new independent jeweller?
I would recommend entering lots of design competitions, and to try and be part of larger organisations, as these can help spread your name for you. Nothing happens instantly, but collectively, each achievement will help people recognise your brand. Social media platforms are also great for reaching a wider audience, so plan to tweet or share news on facebook everyday, as regular comments and posts help more people find you. Also, Social Media is what it is, ‘Social’ so interact with people, and make connections. Lastly, be original, and find your unique selling point that will keep your designs fresh and instinctively associated with your brand.

Annabelle Lucilla Jewllery Purple Agate Necklace with tassels
What next?
I am very much looking forward to exhibiting at International Jewellery London this week, which will officially launch my debut collection. This is the largest show I have done so far, so it will be good to show my collection to such a wide range of retailers, buyers and stockists from the U.K. and abroad. I am launching a few new etched designs in late September, so keep a look out for that. I am also showing at London Fashion Week as part of a collective with one of my online stockists, Wonsuponatime, which I am very much looking forward to. I am also taking on a few more established online stockists in the next few months. Christmas is going to be busy, with the Cockpit Arts Open Studios in November. I will also be exhibiting as part of an exciting curated exhibition about ‘the diverse and eclectic cultural influences present within the British craft scene‘ in the new year.

Categories ,Ancient Grecian, ,Annabel Dover, ,Annabelle Lucilla, ,Cockpit Arts, ,Crafts Council, ,Daniel Alexander, ,Filigree, ,Hot House, ,Imogen Belfield, ,Indian, ,International Jewellery London, ,interview, ,jewellery, ,Jewellery and Silversmithing, ,Laura Hickman, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Metallic Graphics, ,New Designers, ,One Year On, ,Open Studios, ,Oriental Embodiments, ,Peacocks, ,Sir John Cass School of Art, ,Social Media, ,Sophie Harley, ,Surface Pattern, ,Wonsuponatime, ,Zo Bevan

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Amelia’s Magazine | David Longshaw, Father Said: New S/S 2012 Season Preview Interview

David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Abi Hall
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Abi Hall.

We’ve been following David Longshaw‘s career since we spotted him at Fashion Scout back in 2010. His work continues to evolve in intriguing directions, utilising his illustration and animations skills more than ever before…

We last spoke to you in 2010, what have been the biggest changes since then?
I’m now selling in Harrods as well as more shops in a variety of countries.

David Longshaw SS 2012
What was the inspiration behind Father Said, your S/S 2012 collection, and where does the accompanying story come from? (it’s quite dark!)
I created the story a few years ago for TANK magazine – but never used it for a collection. This season felt like the perfect time to use it and develop the characters. The story is a bit dark – but I think it can be fun to have a dark inspiration from time to time for something as frivolous and light as fashion – I like the contradiction. Here’s the story:

Father said it would have been… by David Longshaw
Father said it would be nice to go to the seaside. I’m not sure mother would have agreed; here I go getting all Alan Bennett. It wasn’t Alan Bennett like at all. That’s why I brought you here, a little nostalgic trip for me, unchartered territory for you. I was driving of course. Well you’d come to see me hadn’t you?
I didn’t expect it to happen. You know I didn’t. I hadn’t planned it. I mean I was all tired out from the drive. It was just these memories coming back that did it. I hadn’t told you about them had I?
“We could go round the castle you said,” but then we spied the purveyor of local delicacies and were ensnared by the intoxicating aroma.
Well, it would have been rude not to.

David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Mitika Chohan
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Mitika Chohan.

Monies were exchanged and we floated out on the emerald green sea of tiles, shimmering from the hedgehog that had just mopped them. It was you who pointed out she was a hedgehog- all little and bristly and nose twitching as she mopped that chip shop floor; scared by the preying silver fox in the corner (Trevor they called him from over the counter) with his suave, debonair mask- under which lurked a wild, preying animal ready for its next victim. At least that’s how he looked, sitting, pouting but that gentle trickle of saliva and the abstract motif that speckled his jacket- formed from chips and gravy, suggested otherwise.
We did laugh about that, chuckling, as you do, walking towards the sea. You spotted that sign, “Boat Trip to Puffin Island.” £4.50 each, but it was worth it. We saw seals, and jellyfish and went up really close to the island and there were so many little birds. I’m not sure if there were any puffins though, you said you’d seen one but that was you all over.
I’m sorry the rest of the day didn’t pan out quite as well for you. It’s just these memories coming back. Now I think of it, I was reading a book at the time with a puffin mentioned in it, so perhaps that’s what it was.
I’m awfully sorry all the same. Anyway not much I can do now other than tidy things up I suppose. Well there you go. You’re wrapped up now. It was handy I had that spade in the boot wasn’t it. I’ll just cover you up- the soil will keep you warm.”

David Longshaw SS 2012

How did you put together the animation for Father Said and why did you decide to put the story together in animated form?
I’ve always been fascinated by animation – I love creating characters and the idea of bringing them to life for people to watch in a little version of my world. It’s a massively time consuming medium – even for something as crudely done as mine, but that’s part of its beauty. I thought it was a natural next step for me to explore animation as I create a story and illustrate it each season. It’s a fun tool to explain my collection and to build interest in my label, and it’s a point of differentiation. There are so many fashion labels out there and the big fashion houses have huge adverting budgets to promote their collections – so by doing something creative it helps showcase my ideas and the plan is that people will hopefully enjoy what I do and want to keep seeing more.

David Longshaw SS12 by Janneke de Jong
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Janneke de Jong.

Putting it together was tricky as I’d never done it before and I thought it would be fun to do it all myself from a series of my illustrations (apart from the voice over which I got Jessica Bumpus to do). I did it using a very old mac – which seemed a good idea at the time until it became apparent that it was so old it wasn’t compatible with any others, or with upload programs to put it on Vimeo… which was unfortunate. But after a lot of pfaffing around I finally managed to get it on there and now it’s linked to my website as well. In the short term I’m planning to work on more short animations to develop with my collections. At some point in the future I would like to work on a more ambitious project with a much larger animation – perhaps even a stop motion model animation But I’d need a larger budget and a lot more time.

David Longshaw SS 2012
Why are narratives important?
Narratives help create the theme and tone of the collection – they inform everything from print and silhouette to the colour of the fabrics.

David Longshaw SS 2012
What was the inspiration behind the extravagant silhouettes in the S/S 2012 collection?
The idea was from the point in the story where Sophie accidentally kills her boyfriend, buries him, planting flowers over his burial place. The flowers grow and flow in to the dress she’s wearing. For the rest of her life she wears a flower to remind her of him. I wanted to convey the sense of the flowers growing and taking over what the wearer has on.

David Longshaw SS12 by Janneke de Jong
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Janneke de Jong.

How did your time at Max Mara equip you for working as an independent designer, and do you have any tips for those just starting out?
My time at both Max Mara and Alberta Ferretti was really useful for starting my own label – aesthetically my style (and indeed the style of the other labels) are very different, but in a way that works out better than if I was just doing a smaller version of either label. Day to day there are things I put in to practice that I learnt there. When you work for big fashion houses you get to see how very successful businesses and design houses work and what’s helped them to get there. But there’s always things you think you would do differently as well.

David Longshaw SS 2012
For people just starting out it’s good to get as much experience in the industry as possible, whether it’s from work experience, or actually designing for a label – if you want to start your own label straight away then try to get as much business advice as you can. Design schools teach how to pull a collection together but you have to know how to be a business person – if you don’t then you won’t have the money or the structure to be able to continue. It’s also really important to think what you want your label to be like – what’s your point of difference and what do you think you can do better than is already out there. It’s good to be aware of all the pitfalls with running your own label: financial, emotional, time constraints, constantly questioning yourself, knowing all the things that can go wrong, all the reasons not to do your own label… Then just go for it anyway!

David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs.

You are not just a fashion designer but also an accomplished illustrator, how do the two fit together?
They go well together – I use my illustrations in the prints of my collection. Both my design and illustration work inspire each other. When I illustrate for a mag it’s a fun way for people to see my work and see which other designers I like (as I get to select who I interview or illustrate) and it gives people another window in to my thinking. Then when I’m designing I think back to my illustration work and why I selected certain designers/pieces. I’m not trying to be like another designer but it makes me reflect on why I would choose one designer’s work over another.

David Longshaw SS 2012
How do your partnerships with footwear designer Heather Blake and milliner Katherine Lee work? What is the process of working together on a collection?
With Katherine Lee we work together throughout the season on different projects for the collection – from looking and reviewing the collection’s designs and progress to specific pieces she creates for me. With Heather we look at my designs and work out what would be cool to go with them – what elements we can bring out from the clothes and in to the shoes.

David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs.

You also collaborate with girlfriend (and another Amelia’s Mag favourite) Kirsty Ward. How was the Christmas break with the Longshaw Wards? Did you do anything fun?
Christmas was great: there was a Maude fairy on top of the tree – there was still some pfaffing around with fabrics and pens (aka work) but also lots of fun – road trips to visit our families and friends. Then on New Year’s Eve we had a studio party in London and had some friends over.

David Longshaw SS 2012
What can we expect from A/W 2012? any tips?
More Maude: this season Maude’s taken over my collection and mashed it up with her own style… so basically she’s covered most of it with herself – from prints to bags, to scarves, to products…

David Longshaw SS 2012
Make sure you also check out our previous interview with David Longshaw here.

Categories ,Abi Hall, ,Alan Bennett, ,Alberta Ferretti, ,animation, ,David Longshaw, ,Father Said, ,Harrods, ,Heather Blake, ,illustration, ,interview, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Katherine Lee, ,Kirsty Ward, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Maude, ,Max Mara, ,Mitika Chohan, ,Puffin Island, ,S/S 2012, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,TANK magazine

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with jewellery designer and gemologist expert Milena Kovanovic

Milena Kovanovic by Laura Hickman
Milena Kovanovic by Laura Hickman.

I was blown away by the unusual jewels of Milena Kovanovic when I first discovered her at The Craft Market last year, curated by Megan Taylor as part of Tent London during the 2012 London Design Festival. It’s taken me awhile to catch up with this Central Saint Martins graduate, gemologist and self confessed hoarder, who explores ideas of science and antiquity to create her unique designs – but I didn’t forget her. Her new Ursula’s Hoard Collection features rough precious gems such as Lapis Lazuli, Carnelian and Baroque Pearls set in swathes of bubbled gold, all inspired by the potential spoils of a sunken galleon: forgotten gems that Milena Kovanovic imagines lie encrusted in coral reefs on the depths of the ocean floor. Customers with a very healthy budget can commission from her high end Luxe Reef collection, featuring even more exotic jewels. I spoke to Milena about her inspiration, design process and knowledge as a qualified gemologist.

Tent London Oct 2012-Milena Kovanovic gem
Tent London Oct 2012-Milena Kovanovic
Spessartine Garnet and Smokey Quartz necklace from the Krystalline collection. Discovered at Tent London 2012.

When did you first realise that you wanted to be a jewellery designer, and what has been the best thing about following this career path?
I came across jewellery design whilst doing my art and design foundation course, really enjoyed working in metal and decided I’d apply to the degree course after my tutor convinced me I’d be perfect for it. It must have been fate as I used to make jewellery as a teenager and sell it at Greenwich Market to earn some extra cash, though I never considered it as a career at the time. The best thing about following this career path is that it encompasses all the things I love – making and gems and minerals.

Milena Kovanovic Ursula's Hoard red gems
What was the best bit about studying at CSM?
For me the best part about studying at CSM was the freedom you got to explore and experiment within your degree course. It also have one of the best libraries for books and materials that is an invaluable resource for any designer.

Milena Kovanovic Jewelry by Veronica Rowlands
Milena Kovanovic Jewellery by Veronica Rowlands.

The Ursula’s Hoard collection features gems that are encrusted with molten gold that looks like coral – how did you achieve this effect?
I enjoy exploring new processes and techniques in my work, so for my last two collections I have been doing a lot of electroforming. This is a process which uses an electrical current to take metal in a solution and deposit/grow it onto the surface of whatever you want. This method was perfect for the Ursula’s Hoard collection as I wanted the pieces to look like they’d been under the sea for centuries, becoming encrusted in barnacles and corals.

Milena Kovanovic Ursula's Hoard La Belle Ring
La Belle Ring.

Where do you go for inspiration when you start designing a new collection?
Inspiration can come from anywhere, it’s all around us. I’m very visual and take a lot of photographs of things that catch my eye, especially focusing on the details. Sometimes it can be from something I’ve read or an exhibition I’ve seen. I also love to travel which is a great influence for new ideas.

Milena Kovanovic Ursula's Hoard Golden Hind Necklace
Golden Hind Necklace.

Where did you study and how long did it take you to become a qualified gemologist?
I trained as a gemmologist at the Gemmological Association of Great Britain in Hatton Garden. They have a fast track course which combines the foundation and diploma into a 1 year full time programme, which is what I did.

Milena Kovanovic Ursula's Hoard rings
What amazing and little known gemological fact can you share with us?
The gemstone Tourmaline is pyroelectric – meaning that when it is rubbed or heated, it will develop a static charge that attracts lightweight particles to its surface like dust. This effect could be one probable source of it’s name, which originates from the Sinhalese word Turmali which means both “coloured stone” and “attractor of ashes“.

Milena Kovanovic Ursula's Hoard Mayflower Ring
Mayflower Ring.

What are your favourite kind of gems to work with?
That’s a tough one, there are so many it’s hard to choose! I’m really drawn to vibrant coloured gems such as Rubellites, Spessartine Garnets and Emeralds to name but a few. The gems are always the starting point from which I will create a piece of jewellery as they usually inform the design.

Milena Kovanovic Ursula's Hoard earrings
How and when are you able to use your gemological expertise these days? (apart from in jewellery design)
I regularly utilise my gemmological knowledge to source and supply gemstones for clients and trade, as well as offering specialised training in gemstones and jewellery production to staff in retail businesses.

I can’t wait to see what the talented Milena Kovanovic designs next. Visit her website here to explore her wonderful world of gems.

Categories ,2012, ,Baroque Pearls, ,Carnelian, ,Central Saint Martins, ,electroforming, ,Emerald, ,Gemmological Association of Great Britain, ,Gemologist, ,Gems, ,Golden Hind Necklace, ,Greenwich Market, ,Hatton Garden, ,jewellery, ,Krystalline, ,La Belle Ring, ,Lapis Lazuli, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Design Festival, ,Luxe Reef, ,Mayflower Ring, ,Megan Taylor, ,Milena Kovanovic, ,pyroelectric, ,Rubellite, ,Sinhalese, ,Spessartine Garnet, ,Spessartine Garnet and Smokey Quartz necklace, ,Tent London, ,The Craft Market, ,Tourmaline, ,Turmali, ,Ursula’s Hoard Collection, ,Veronica Rowlands

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ashley Isham: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell.

This season Ashley Isham decided to up his game, producing a collection that was a dramatic break from what we’ve come to expect from this lover of draped party frocks. So it was out with the floral chiffon and jewel coloured jersey and in with hard edged military inspired jackets and sharp shouldered shift dresses. Models strode out bearing intriguing headwear: glossy black visors tilted over their eyes and tied at the back with delicate ribbon under a towering top knot. The effect was one of high octane glamour infused with an attitude of powerful defiance.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Rosa Middleton
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Rosa Middleton.

Standout garments included a sumptuous brocade coat decorated in exotic red and orange flowers and a bright red double breasted jacket worn over a pencil skirt with an interesting circular detail in yellow piping. An all over tropical print on loungewear appeared a bit out of place for winter, but was nonetheless welcome relief in the midst of this predominantly sombre collection.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte.

Not all of Ashley Isham‘s new found love of tailoring was successful: too much layering felt unnecessary and this was proof that peplums, capes, frills and panelling don’t always work well together. The few draped garments in this collection – khaki belted minidresses – were effortlessly simple as always, and the hard edged styling suited them well.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte.

For the finale Isham reverted to type, sending out a series of sweeping floor length dresses in rich browns topped with gunmetal embroidery, the kind that swish threateningly around ankles and cause tottering models to trip and swoop. The closing dress featured a huge skirt with an intriguing abstract grey rippled effect: I’ll be intrigued to see what Ashley Isham will do with this new exploratory vibe next season.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashey Isham A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Ashey Isham A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ashley Isham, ,draping, ,Gaarte, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Isher Dhiman, ,military, ,Rosa Middleton

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ashley Isham: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Ashley Isham by Laurie Nouchka
Ashley Isham by Laurie Nouchka.

Ashley Isham always has a flair for the dramatic and this season his models strutted down the runway before pausing to pout and pose at the ornate doors for the photographers. They wore a succession of swirling gowns in bright cerise pink, saturated royal blue and smokey greys. Ornate beaded details, fringing and curlicued lace were used in asymmetric formation with the addition of bondage inspired leather belts, which gave some edge to the proceedings. I particularly liked a pairing of softest grey silk with tomato leather shoulder caplets and wide cutout belt.

Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Hats were chosen to complement the heightened sense of drama, either woven baseball caps with outsized brims, or colossal affairs; spiked urchin umbrellas from under which models could glance askew. Lips and shoes were suitably glossy, giving a further pop of colour. More wearable for the everyday were short shorts, softly draped blouses and cute floral print sleeveless dresses. Prints were animal inspired, skirts flared or pencil tight. Glamourous encrusted swimsuits were designed for the swimming pool as catwalk, glittery clutch bags the must have accessory.

To watch the video scroll to the bottom of the page.

Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ashley Isham, ,catwalk, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Glamour, ,Laurie Nouchka, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,S/S 2015, ,SS15, ,video

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Amelia’s Magazine | Belle Sauvage: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Belle_Sauvage_AW_2013_by_Isabelle_Mattern
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Isabelle Mattern.

Belle Sauvage hit Fashion Scout with the look for which they are known best: incredibly complex digital placement prints, as described in our exclusive preview interview with designers Virginia Ferreira and Chris Neuman.

Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Victoria Haynes
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Victoria Haynes.

The show opened with a trio of models, resplendent in massive hairpieces: swishing pigtails and gigantic dip dyed fringes that dominated each of the looks that were to follow. Sheepskin and fake fur topped eminently wearable silk shift dresses which were covered in swirls inspired by Chinese dragons and baroque ornaments, and lace trims appeared at the arms and thigh. Zip up black suede boots and laced patent platforms worked well with the simplicity of the looks, though to my mind they were of questionable styling taste. The intention of this collection was to mix up inspirations from East and West and there was certainly a wide range of styles on show. Classic Chanel styling appeared in the form of heavy contrast seams and big buttons on boxy suits and peplums paired with pencil skirts and mini capes provided a contrasting silhouette.

Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle_Sauvage_AW_2013_by_Isabelle_Mattern
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Isabelle Mattern.

That this brand does well in the commercial sector abroad was evident in the more casual range that made up the middle section of the show. Amongst my favourite looks was the head of Botticelli‘s famous Birth of Venus reimagined in a repeat pattern on a loose fitting top and matching trouser set, but there was one odd look that didn’t appear to fit in at all: an intarsia knit cat portrait top which was accessorised with beanie and sunglasses.

Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
This was a lengthy show featuring many similar pieces and I must confess I became a little weary somewhere around the ten minute mark, but this was clearly intended as a showcase for plentiful looks that will no doubt gain lots of sales for this talented twosome. The show came to a screeching halt as the models massed for a final walk down the catwalk.

Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Belle Sauvage, ,Birth of Venus, ,Botticelli, ,chanel, ,Chris Neuman, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Victoria Haynes, ,Virginia Ferreira

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Amelia’s Magazine | London 2012 Olympic Games Team Opening and Closing Ceremonies Illustrated

Jessie J By Laura Hickman
Jessie J by Laura Hickman.

Can it really be a week since the Olympics ended? Here’s my final blog post inspired by the visual drama of the ceremonies that opened and closed London 2012.

Antonia-Parker-London-2012-Olympic-Opening-Ceremony
Olympic Opening Ceremony London 2012 by Antonia Parker.

Opening Ceromony by Lizzie Mary Cullen
Opening Ceromony by Lizzie Mary Cullen.

I watched the Opening Ceremony from a small cottage in Wales, where we marvelled at Danny Boyle‘s very British spectacle and wondered what on earth other nations would think about the pastoral scenes, the ironic exploding industrial landscape, the skydiving Queen, the swing dancing NHS nurses, the children’s choirs, the awesome Dizzee Rascal, the brilliant volunteer disco dancers and, erm, Emeli Sandé (can anyone explain the fuss?) It was a fantastically oddball celebration of real everyday Britain, a two fingers up at the hugely expensive perfection of the Beijing Olympics.

London 2012 Olympics Opening Ceremony Industrial Revolution by Helen Beeston
London 2012 Olympics Opening Ceremony Industrial Revolution by Helen Beeston.

After two weeks of mind boggling physical feats it was a shame that the Closing Ceremony did not wow in quite the same way – instead it resembled a badly put together festival, including as it did mainstream bores such as Elbow, Muse, Kaiser Cheifs and Liam Gallagher (singing out of tune!) two appearances too many from the apparent reigning queen of British pop Emeli Sandé, Jessie J in a series of crystal encrusted flesh bodysuits and no shows from the legendarily (and shy) Kate Bush and David Bowie. Don’t even get me started on the truck bed catwalks – as one commentator pointed out, clothes horses suddenly look very untalented set against the athletic prowess of Olympic medalists. And Victoria Beckham mentioned in the same breath as Burberry and Alexander McQueen? The price paid for a reunited Spice Girls, perhaps? Mind you, call it a guilty pleasure but that was one performance I did enjoy.

Olympics Closing Ceremony Newspaper Cars by Olivia Cook
Olympics Closing Ceremony Newspaper Cars by Olivia Cook.

London 2012 Olympics Closing Ceremony The Spice Girls by Helen Beeston
London 2012 Olympics Closing Ceremony The Spice Girls by Helen Beeston.

And so now onto the Paralympics. Last night I watched the brilliant BBC drama The Best of Men, which follows it’s creation in the 1940s at Stoke Mandeville Hospital, where the remarkable refugee Dr. Guttmann took a radical new approach to the rehabilitation of soldiers with spine injuries. It’s still available to view for a few more days and I highly recommend you do catch it before the Paralympics start. I for one am really looking forward to the ‘Lympics round two.

Russell Brand by Victoria Elizabeth James
Russell Brand by Victoria Elizabeth James.

Olympic Ceremony by Helen Dodsworth
Olympic Ceremony by Helen Dodsworth.

Don’t forget to check in with our previous illustrated Olympics blog posts here and here. And find out more about the true cost of the Games here, outlined in a series of thought provoking illustrated blogposts by designer and theoretician Jody Boehnert.

Categories ,2012, ,Alexander McQueen, ,Antonia Parker, ,beijing, ,Closing ceremony, ,Danny Boyle, ,David Bowie, ,dizzee rascal, ,Elbow, ,Emeli Sandé, ,Helen Beeston, ,Helen Dodsworth, ,illustration, ,Jessie J, ,Jody Boehnert, ,Kaiser Cheifs, ,Kate Bush, ,Laura Hickman, ,Liam Gallagher, ,Lizzie Mary Cullen, ,Muse, ,NHS, ,Olivia Cook, ,Olympics, ,Opening ceremony, ,Paralympics, ,review, ,The Best of Men, ,Victoria Beckham, ,Victoria Elizabeth James

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Amelia’s Magazine | London 2012: The XXX Olympic Games


Olympic Gymnastics by Lucy Palmer

Tonight’s the night. After what has quite possibly been the longest warm up for anything to happen ever, seven years in the making, the 30th Olympic Games launches tonight in spectacular style in East London with a lavish opening ceremony directed by Danny Boyle. I’ve only just recovered from my Diamond Jubilee excitement, too.

Now this might come as a massive surprise to my friends, but I don’t care much for sport. I do, however, love the Olympics. There’s something pretty magical about it, don’t you think? The dramatic opening ceremony, the fastest, strongest people in the world coming together in one place and Russian weightlifters walking into walls. I’m still terribly upset that Disco Dancing hasn’t been recognised as an Olympic sport, but I’ll be writing to the IOC again re: this oversight.


Olympic Snacking by Helena Maratheftis

Here, in no particular order, are a few things that have got me going so far:

• I (sort of) love that florists in Stoke-on-Trent are threatened with legal action by the International Olympic Committee for making replica rings out of tissue paper and Bostik.

• I love *grits teeth* listening to berks on the tube moaning about how busy the city is, as if London is a sleepy little hamlet suddenly invaded by Charlton Heston and the cast of Ben Hur. You’ve had seven years to moan about it, pals.

• I know that we’ll never compare to China and their fastidious approach to drumming at the opening of the 2008 Beijing games. Our highlights include a farmyard of animals, the Coronation Street theme tune and Boris Johnson slobbering as he waves a flag (I know I’ll be eating my words come 9pm).


Boris and Bradley by Angela Lamb


London 2012 by Katie Laura Wood

• I love the mindboggling stories of the piggish sponsors; the ludicrousness that McDonald’s are the only vendor allowed to flog chips. Please.


The Olympic Park by Sam Parr

• I love that we’re hosting the XXX Olympic Games. Arf.

• I love that we haven’t even performed the opening ceremony and we’ve already offended everybody in North Korea and Welsh footballer Joe Allen, who’s listed as English in the Olympic programme.

• I love how brands fall over themselves to be the official provider – Official Cereal Bar had me proverbially ROFLing. I’m just hoping that the Official Ironing Board Provider comes forward soon.

Nevertheless, no doubt we’ll look back at how wonderful the next few weeks ill inevitably be. In celebration of the Olympic and Paralympic Games on home turf, here’s a wonderful selection of illustrated images by some of our favourite contributors, and a few other surprises along the way!


Olympic Girl by Angela Keeler


Paralympian Aimee Mullins by Laura Hickman


Usian Bolt by Lucy Palmer


Olympic Hoola Hoopers by EdieOP


Olympic Hair by Isher Dhiman


Olympic Stadium by Sinead O Leary

You can rely on Maiden in Shoreditch to deliver something hilarious as an Olympics tie-in. Take your pic from unofficial Olympic bags and Great British tea towels…



Olympic tea-towels


Olympic Bags (unofficial…) by Toby Leigh. All products available at Maiden, Shoreditch

Good luck to all of the athletes involved. Enjoy the opening ceremony. Come on Team GB!


Olympic swimmers by Lucy Palmer

Categories ,Angela Lamb, ,beijing, ,Ben Hur, ,Bethan Wyn Williams, ,Boris Johnson, ,Bostik, ,Bradley Wiggins, ,Cereal Bars, ,China, ,Coronation Street, ,Danny Boyle, ,EdieOP, ,Helena Maratheftis, ,I’m renting my flat to a fat American family, ,IOC, ,Ironing Boards, ,Isher Dhiman, ,It only took me three hours to get to work this morning, ,Joe Allen, ,Katie Laura Wood, ,Laura Hickman, ,London 2012, ,Lucy Palmer, ,Maiden, ,Matt Bramford, ,Olympic Games, ,Olympics, ,Sam Parr, ,Sarah Bromley, ,shoreditch, ,Sinead O’Leary, ,Stoke-on-Trent, ,Tea Towels, ,Tess Redburn, ,Toby Leigh, ,Tote Bags, ,Veronica Rowlands, ,xxx

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Amelia’s Magazine | London 2012: The XXX Olympic Games


Olympic Gymnastics by Lucy Palmer

Tonight’s the night. After what has quite possibly been the longest warm up for anything to happen ever, seven years in the making, the 30th Olympic Games launches tonight in spectacular style in East London with a lavish opening ceremony directed by Danny Boyle. I’ve only just recovered from my Diamond Jubilee excitement, too.

Now this might come as a massive surprise to my friends, but I don’t care much for sport. I do, however, love the Olympics. There’s something pretty magical about it, don’t you think? The dramatic opening ceremony, the fastest, strongest people in the world coming together in one place and Russian weightlifters walking into walls. I’m still terribly upset that Disco Dancing hasn’t been recognised as an Olympic sport, but I’ll be writing to the IOC again re: this oversight.


Olympic Snacking by Helena Maratheftis

Here, in no particular order, are a few things that have got me going so far:

• I (sort of) love that florists in Stoke-on-Trent are threatened with legal action by the International Olympic Committee for making replica rings out of tissue paper and Bostik.

• I love *grits teeth* listening to berks on the tube moaning about how busy the city is, as if London is a sleepy little hamlet suddenly invaded by Charlton Heston and the cast of Ben Hur. You’ve had seven years to moan about it, pals.

• I know that we’ll never compare to China and their fastidious approach to drumming at the opening of the 2008 Beijing games. Our highlights include a farmyard of animals, the Coronation Street theme tune and Boris Johnson slobbering as he waves a flag (I know I’ll be eating my words come 9pm).


Boris and Bradley by Angela Lamb


London 2012 by Katie Laura Wood

• I love the mindboggling stories of the piggish sponsors; the ludicrousness that McDonald’s are the only vendor allowed to flog chips. Please.


The Olympic Park by Sam Parr

• I love that we’re hosting the XXX Olympic Games. Arf.

• I love that we haven’t even performed the opening ceremony and we’ve already offended everybody in North Korea and Welsh footballer Joe Allen, who’s listed as English in the Olympic programme.

• I love how brands fall over themselves to be the official provider – Official Cereal Bar had me proverbially ROFLing. I’m just hoping that the Official Ironing Board Provider comes forward soon.

Nevertheless, no doubt we’ll look back at how wonderful the next few weeks ill inevitably be. In celebration of the Olympic and Paralympic Games on home turf, here’s a wonderful selection of illustrated images by some of our favourite contributors, and a few other surprises along the way!


Olympic Girl by Angela Keeler


Paralympian Aimee Mullins by Laura Hickman


Usian Bolt by Lucy Palmer


Olympic Hoola Hoopers by EdieOP


Olympic Hair by Isher Dhiman


Olympic Stadium by Sinead O Leary

You can rely on Maiden in Shoreditch to deliver something hilarious as an Olympics tie-in. Take your pic from unofficial Olympic bags and Great British tea towels…



Olympic tea-towels


Olympic Bags (unofficial…) by Toby Leigh. All products available at Maiden, Shoreditch

Good luck to all of the athletes involved. Enjoy the opening ceremony. Come on Team GB!


Olympic swimmers by Lucy Palmer

Categories ,Angela Lamb, ,beijing, ,Ben Hur, ,Bethan Wyn Williams, ,Boris Johnson, ,Bostik, ,Bradley Wiggins, ,Cereal Bars, ,China, ,Coronation Street, ,Danny Boyle, ,EdieOP, ,Helena Maratheftis, ,I’m renting my flat to a fat American family, ,IOC, ,Ironing Boards, ,Isher Dhiman, ,It only took me three hours to get to work this morning, ,Joe Allen, ,Katie Laura Wood, ,Laura Hickman, ,London 2012, ,Lucy Palmer, ,Maiden, ,Matt Bramford, ,Olympic Games, ,Olympics, ,Sam Parr, ,Sarah Bromley, ,shoreditch, ,Sinead O’Leary, ,Stoke-on-Trent, ,Tea Towels, ,Tess Redburn, ,Toby Leigh, ,Tote Bags, ,Veronica Rowlands, ,xxx

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