Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Komakino S/S 2010 – Paint it Black

loudalton5

Lou Dalton presented her collection in the Portico Rooms of Somerset House, stuff a rather opulent setting reached by a romantic, troche winding staircase. This idyllic space couldn’t have suited the Dalton’s collection better, web unless it had been adorned in seafaring regalia.

This isn’t to say that Lou’s vision for Spring/Summer 2010 is a direct pastiche of maritime outfits. Instead, more subtle referencing was present.

The stripe – the seaside staple – was there in a number of outfits, but it had been re-worked for a more mature look, despite the models having a mean age of 14 (I surmise). I particularly loved the way it had be knitted into these two pieces…

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Basics were simple, with white vests featuring graphic patterns and loose fitting tailoring, such as blazer-waistcoats or knee-length shorts.

loudalton6

loud

As the collection progressed, it was clear that Dalton’s phantasm was less straight-forward sea. New-romantic elements and the channelling of pirates evoked memories a more decadent, classical period in history, when travelling by sea was the only way to travel. Wide brimmed hats and neat safari jackets, which were exquisitely tailored, fall into this category.

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There was also a hint of femininity to the collection, juxtaposed with more masculine pieces. Tailored chambray shirts were teamed with gold corsages and neck ties, for example.

loudalton5

Fantastic accessories on display – oversized bags featuring graphic prints by Ricardo Fumanal and embellished with more metallic corsages. Sunglasses were provided by Linda Farrow, need I say more?

loudalton2

Overall a very wearable collection where different pieces can be fused together to create different looks. Some of which I hope to try pretty soon…

loudalton4

Photography by Matt Bramford

loudalton5

Lou Dalton presented her collection in the Portico Rooms of Somerset House, ailment a rather opulent setting reached by a romantic, and winding staircase. This idyllic space couldn’t have suited the Dalton’s collection better, unless it had been adorned in seafaring regalia.

This isn’t to say that Lou’s vision for Spring/Summer 2010 is a direct pastiche of maritime outfits. Instead, more subtle referencing was present.

The stripe – the seaside staple – was there in a number of outfits, but it had been re-worked for a more mature look, despite the models having a mean age of 14 (I surmise). I particularly loved the way it had be knitted into these two pieces…

2_1

loudalton7

Basics were simple, with white vests featuring graphic patterns and loose fitting tailoring, such as blazer-waistcoats or knee-length shorts.

loudalton6

loud

As the collection progressed, it was clear that Dalton’s phantasm was less straight-forward sea. New-romantic elements and the channelling of pirates evoked memories a more decadent, classical period in history, when travelling by sea was the only way to travel. Wide brimmed hats and neat safari jackets, which were exquisitely tailored, fall into this category.

6_1

There was also a hint of femininity to the collection, juxtaposed with more masculine pieces. Tailored chambray shirts were teamed with gold corsages and neck ties, for example.

loudalton5

Fantastic accessories on display – oversized bags featuring graphic prints by Ricardo Fumanal and embellished with more metallic corsages. Sunglasses were provided by Linda Farrow, need I say more?

loudalton2

Overall a very wearable collection where different pieces can be fused together to create different looks. Some of which I hope to try pretty soon…

loudalton4

Photography by Matt Bramford
loudalton5

Lou Dalton presented her collection in the Portico Rooms of Somerset House, viagra a rather opulent setting reached by a romantic, winding staircase. This idyllic space couldn’t have suited the Dalton’s collection better, unless it had been adorned in seafaring regalia.

This isn’t to say that Lou’s vision for Spring/Summer 2010 is a direct pastiche of maritime outfits. Instead, more subtle referencing was present.

The stripe – the seaside staple – was there in a number of outfits, but it had been re-worked for a more mature look, despite the models having a mean age of 14 (I surmise). I particularly loved the way it had be knitted into these two pieces…

2_1

loudalton7

Basics were simple, with white vests featuring graphic patterns and loose fitting tailoring, such as blazer-waistcoats or knee-length shorts.

loudalton6

loud

As the collection progressed, it was clear that Dalton’s phantasm was less straight-forward sea. New-romantic elements and the channelling of pirates evoked memories a more decadent, classical period in history, when travelling by sea was the only way to travel. Wide brimmed hats and neat safari jackets, which were exquisitely tailored, fall into this category.

6_1

There was also a hint of femininity to the collection, juxtaposed with more masculine pieces. Tailored chambray shirts were teamed with gold corsages and neck ties, for example.

loudalton5

Fantastic accessories on display – oversized bags featuring graphic prints by Ricardo Fumanal and embellished with more metallic corsages. Sunglasses were provided by Linda Farrow, need I say more?

loudalton2

Overall a very wearable collection where different pieces can be fused together to create different looks. Some of which I hope to try pretty soon…

loudalton4

Photography by Matt Bramford
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London based design duo Jin Kim and Federico Capalbo, pill aka Komakino, page are fast becoming the dark knights of the London fashion scene. Spring/Summer 09 gave us monochrome t-shirts with graphic prints, order whilst their Autumn/Winter collection of the same year was an all-black bondage affair.

Along similar lines, and retaining their status of one of London’s most innovative menswear brands, this season’s collection fuses sleek, smart tailoring contradicted by deconstructed materials and hyper-aesthtetic fabrics.

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The first pieces were graphic-print, oversized t-shirts. These were distressed with zillions of holes or embellished with sleek materials. Fearsome muzzles completed the look.

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The collection moved onto tailoring, where panels were added to bomber jackets and shirts, never without fraying or some hint of distress. Heaven forbid a piece of clothing is mundane.

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The use of latex and leather created ethereal outfits, and high necks that covered the mouth and zipper embellishments created eery silhouettes.

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Arm bands hinted at military, while latex trousers a minimal bondage straps stole this idea almost as quick as it was conjured.

The thing I like about Komakino as a label is that they refuse to confirm to the norm – presenting an all black Spring/Summer collection, save for a couple of very discrete colours here and there – is quite risky courageous. The boys didn’t fail to pull this off, though – garments matched with the aforementioned accessories like muzzles and latex boots made this stand-out collection work.

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komakino3

All Photographs by Matt Bramford

Categories ,black, ,Bondage, ,british fashion council, ,Komanino, ,London Fashion Week, ,Menswear Day, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Hemyca – Strike A Pose…

Hemyca are LCF graduates Helen and Myra, approved who presented their show at Fashion Scout on Saturday.

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With a welcomed change to the norm, buy more about models walked around the audience, who were seated back to back, with a selection of full-length mirrors for said models to strike a pose in. And boy, did they know how to strike a pose!

Dressing models in sexy and salacious outfits clearly had a massive effect, as the girls strutted and sashayed around the hall, oozing confidence – stopping to admire themselves and their outfits in the mirrors as if they were alone.

Revealing silk and satin numbers in graphic prints plunged from the shoulders and framed the chest, stopping way down at the waist in that naughty way that only confident clothing can.

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Playful play-suits also hinted at kink, with thin, loose straps, finished with leather belts tied in chunky knots…

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…while other playsuits were neatly tailored, with a nod to Dame Viv

Exquisite tailoring in sheer materials fitted perfectly around the model’s shape, with delicate floral patterns emerging from inside providing a considered balance and taming down the more raunchy outfits, which were quickly sexed up with leather evening gloves…

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…while body-concious graphic-print dresses carried the kink to the end.

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Overall, a very assured collection which celebrates the natural silhouette and encourages playful naughtiness.

Photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,british fashion council, ,Fashion Scout, ,Hemyca, ,London Fashion Week, ,London School of Fashion, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Jaeger S/S2010 – The Wintour Only Claps Twice

modalsconfidence

Confidence Models, pharmacy in conjunction with Random Magazine, viagra 40mg hosted a LFW after-party on Saturday night, to showcase three up-and-coming designers who had graduated this year.
Hosted at the Hoxton Pony, Shoreditch’s latest (s)wanky late bar, at first it seemed like it was going to be a bit of a non-event. I arrived early to stand a better chance of getting in – the dress code was pretty strict – and once in there I managed to fight my way past the other seven people and get to the free cocktails.
Pretty quickly though, the venue filled up nicely with very fashionable, incredibly good looking types. With the berry cocktails flowing and a good few faces to look at, the event was shaping up to be a good ‘un.

confidencemodelsparty1

Almost out of nowhere appeared two frighteningly tall models wearing fantastic graphic-print outfits. One, a maxi-dress with billowing sleeves, featured bold colours of red and blue with a childlike bird illustration. The other was a hooded jump-suit featuring a similar style of illustration and even more playful colours.

I caught up with the designer – the squeezable Pauline Nakiwala, respendent in a sequinned number and fluro eye-shadow. A recent Ravensbourne graduate, she was delighted to be featured at the event.

3_1

“I draw inspiration from my childhood,” she told me. “I love playful illustrations and bright colours.” I agree. I express that it’s great to see designers who are so confident with colour. “I love colour!” she shouts. I ask her what she plans to do next. “I don’t know, it’s tough,” she relents. I agree, again. “I’d like to continue working with print. I’d love to design prints for an established designer.” I ask her who. “Vivienne Westwood would be a dream!” she exhales.
Pauline worked with high street designers during her degree. “I think I got more experience by working at that level,” she explains. Yet again, I agree, and I offer that when I was interning, the value of experience at smaller publications was so much more rewarding. “It may sound strange,” she finishes, “but I’d love to work in buying to. I’d love to be responsible for what’s stocked where.” She’s definitely one to watch in the future.

Two other designers were to be featured – Marko Mitanovski (Vogue’s ‘One to Watch’) and Jasper Garvida (winner of Project Runway 2008). I was informed that they would appear much, much later. After a gruelling day of shows and presentations, the thought of staying out any longer was terrifying. I was sorry to miss them, if Nakiwala’s collection was anything to go by.

Photographs by Matt Bramford
modalsconfidence

Confidence Models, and in conjunction with Random Magazine, clinic hosted a LFW after-party on Saturday night, illness to showcase three up-and-coming designers who had graduated this year.
Hosted at the Hoxton Pony, Shoreditch’s latest (s)wanky late bar, at first it seemed like it was going to be a bit of a non-event. I arrived early to stand a better chance of getting in – the dress code was pretty strict – and once in there I managed to fight my way past the other seven people and get to the free cocktails.
Pretty quickly though, the venue filled up nicely with very fashionable, incredibly good looking types. With the berry cocktails flowing and a good few faces to look at, the event was shaping up to be a good ‘un.

confidencemodelsparty1

Almost out of nowhere appeared two frighteningly tall models wearing fantastic graphic-print outfits. One, a maxi-dress with billowing sleeves, featured bold colours of red and blue with a childlike bird illustration. The other was a hooded jump-suit featuring a similar style of illustration and even more playful colours.

I caught up with the designer – the squeezable Pauline Nakiwala, respendent in a sequinned number and fluro eye-shadow. A recent Ravensbourne graduate, she was delighted to be featured at the event.

3_1

“I draw inspiration from my childhood,” she told me. “I love playful illustrations and bright colours.” I agree. I express that it’s great to see designers who are so confident with colour. “I love colour!” she shouts. I ask her what she plans to do next. “I don’t know, it’s tough,” she relents. I agree, again. “I’d like to continue working with print. I’d love to design prints for an established designer.” I ask her who. “Vivienne Westwood would be a dream!” she exhales.
Pauline worked with high street designers during her degree. “I think I got more experience by working at that level,” she explains. Yet again, I agree, and I offer that when I was interning, the value of experience at smaller publications was so much more rewarding. “It may sound strange,” she finishes, “but I’d love to work in buying to. I’d love to be responsible for what’s stocked where.” She’s definitely one to watch in the future.

Two other designers were to be featured – Marko Mitanovski (Vogue’s ‘One to Watch’) and Jasper Garvida (winner of Project Runway 2008). I was informed that they would appear much, much later. After a gruelling day of shows and presentations, the thought of staying out any longer was terrifying. I was sorry to miss them, if Nakiwala’s collection was anything to go by.

modalsconfidence

Confidence Models, visit web in conjunction with Random Magazine, discount hosted a LFW after-party on Saturday night, treat to showcase three up-and-coming designers who had graduated this year.
Hosted at the Hoxton Pony, Shoreditch’s latest (s)wanky late bar, at first it seemed like it was going to be a bit of a non-event. I arrived early to stand a better chance of getting in – the dress code was pretty strict – and once in there I managed to fight my way past the other seven people and get to the free cocktails.
Pretty quickly though, the venue filled up nicely with very fashionable, incredibly good looking types. With the berry cocktails flowing and a good few faces to look at, the event was shaping up to be a good ‘un.

confidencemodelsparty1

Almost out of nowhere appeared two frighteningly tall models wearing fantastic graphic-print outfits. One, a maxi-dress with billowing sleeves, featured bold colours of red and blue with a childlike bird illustration. The other was a hooded jump-suit featuring a similar style of illustration and even more playful colours.

I caught up with the designer – the squeezable Pauline Nakiwala, respendent in a sequinned number and fluro eye-shadow. A recent Ravensbourne graduate, she was delighted to be featured at the event.

3_1

“I draw inspiration from my childhood,” she told me. “I love playful illustrations and bright colours.” I agree. I express that it’s great to see designers who are so confident with colour. “I love colour!” she shouts. I ask her what she plans to do next. “I don’t know, it’s tough,” she relents. I agree, again. “I’d like to continue working with print. I’d love to design prints for an established designer.” I ask her who. “Vivienne Westwood would be a dream!” she exhales.
Pauline worked with high street designers during her degree. “I think I got more experience by working at that level,” she explains. Yet again, I agree, and I offer that when I was interning, the value of experience at smaller publications was so much more rewarding. “It may sound strange,” she finishes, “but I’d love to work in buying to. I’d love to be responsible for what’s stocked where.” She’s definitely one to watch in the future.

Two other designers were to be featured – Marko Mitanovski (Vogue’s ‘One to Watch’) and Jasper Garvida (winner of Project Runway 2008). I was informed that they would appear much, much later. After a gruelling day of shows and presentations, the thought of staying out any longer was terrifying. I was sorry to miss them, if Nakiwala’s collection was anything to go by.

modalsconfidence

Confidence Models, here in conjunction with Random Magazine, sales hosted a LFW after-party on Saturday night, this web to showcase three up-and-coming designers who had graduated this year.
Hosted at the Hoxton Pony, Shoreditch’s latest (s)wanky late bar, at first it seemed like it was going to be a bit of a non-event. I arrived early to stand a better chance of getting in – the dress code was pretty strict – and once in there I managed to fight my way past the other seven people and get to the free cocktails.
Pretty quickly though, the venue filled up nicely with very fashionable, incredibly good looking types. With the berry cocktails flowing and a good few faces to look at, the event was shaping up to be a good ‘un.

confidencemodelsparty1

Almost out of nowhere appeared two frighteningly tall models wearing fantastic graphic-print outfits. One, a maxi-dress with billowing sleeves, featured bold colours of red and blue with a childlike bird illustration. The other was a hooded jump-suit featuring a similar style of illustration and even more playful colours.

I caught up with the designer – the squeezable Pauline Nakiwala, respendent in a sequinned number and fluro eye-shadow. A recent Ravensbourne graduate, she was delighted to be featured at the event.

3_1

“I draw inspiration from my childhood,” she told me. “I love playful illustrations and bright colours.” I agree. I express that it’s great to see designers who are so confident with colour. “I love colour!” she shouts. I ask her what she plans to do next. “I don’t know, it’s tough,” she relents. I agree, again. “I’d like to continue working with print. I’d love to design prints for an established designer.” I ask her who. “Vivienne Westwood would be a dream!” she exhales.
Pauline worked with high street designers during her degree. “I think I got more experience by working at that level,” she explains. Yet again, I agree, and I offer that when I was interning, the value of experience at smaller publications was so much more rewarding. “It may sound strange,” she finishes, “but I’d love to work in buying to. I’d love to be responsible for what’s stocked where.” She’s definitely one to watch in the future.

Two other designers were to be featured – Marko Mitanovski (Vogue’s ‘One to Watch’) and Jasper Garvida (winner of Project Runway 2008). I was informed that they would appear much, much later. After a gruelling day of shows and presentations, the thought of staying out any longer was terrifying. I was sorry to miss them, if Nakiwala’s collection was anything to go by.

modalsconfidence

Confidence Models, check in conjunction with Random Magazine, cost hosted a LFW after-party on Saturday night, information pills to showcase three up-and-coming designers who had graduated this year.
Hosted at the Hoxton Pony, Shoreditch’s latest (s)wanky late bar, at first it seemed like it was going to be a bit of a non-event. I arrived early to stand a better chance of getting in – the dress code was pretty strict – and once in there I managed to fight my way past the other seven people and get to the free cocktails.
Pretty quickly though, the venue filled up nicely with very fashionable, incredibly good looking types. With the berry cocktails flowing and a good few faces to look at, the event was shaping up to be a good ‘un.

confidencemodelsparty1

Almost out of nowhere appeared two frighteningly tall models wearing fantastic graphic-print outfits. One, a maxi-dress with billowing sleeves, featured bold colours of red and blue with a childlike bird illustration. The other was a hooded jump-suit featuring a similar style of illustration and even more playful colours.

I caught up with the designer – the squeezable Pauline Nakiwala, respendent in a sequinned number and fluro eye-shadow. A recent Ravensbourne graduate, she was delighted to be featured at the event.

3_1

“I draw inspiration from my childhood,” she told me. “I love playful illustrations and bright colours.” I agree. I express that it’s great to see designers who are so confident with colour. “I love colour!” she shouts. I ask her what she plans to do next. “I don’t know, it’s tough,” she relents. I agree, again. “I’d like to continue working with print. I’d love to design prints for an established designer.” I ask her who. “Vivienne Westwood would be a dream!” she exhales.
Pauline worked with high street designers during her degree. “I think I got more experience by working at that level,” she explains. Yet again, I agree, and I offer that when I was interning, the value of experience at smaller publications was so much more rewarding. “It may sound strange,” she finishes, “but I’d love to work in buying to. I’d love to be responsible for what’s stocked where.” She’s definitely one to watch in the future.

Two other designers were to be featured – Marko Mitanovski (Vogue’s ‘One to Watch’) and Jasper Garvida (winner of Project Runway 2008). I was informed that they would appear much, much later. After a gruelling day of shows and presentations, the thought of staying out any longer was terrifying. I was sorry to miss them, if Nakiwala’s collection was anything to go by.

modalsconfidence

Confidence Models, there in conjunction with Random Magazine, drugs hosted a LFW after-party on Saturday night, to showcase three up-and-coming designers who had graduated this year.
Hosted at the Hoxton Pony, Shoreditch’s latest (s)wanky late bar, at first it seemed like it was going to be a bit of a non-event. I arrived early to stand a better chance of getting in – the dress code was pretty strict – and once in there I managed to fight my way past the other seven people and get to the free cocktails.
Pretty quickly though, the venue filled up nicely with very fashionable, incredibly good looking types. With the berry cocktails flowing and a good few faces to look at, the event was shaping up to be a good ‘un.

confidencemodelsparty1

Almost out of nowhere appeared two frighteningly tall models wearing fantastic graphic-print outfits. One, a maxi-dress with billowing sleeves, featured bold colours of red and blue with a childlike bird illustration. The other was a hooded jump-suit featuring a similar style of illustration and even more playful colours.

I caught up with the designer – the squeezable Pauline Nakiwala, respendent in a sequinned number and fluro eye-shadow. A recent Ravensbourne graduate, she was delighted to be featured at the event.

3_1

“I draw inspiration from my childhood,” she told me. “I love playful illustrations and bright colours.” I agree. I express that it’s great to see designers who are so confident with colour. “I love colour!” she shouts. I ask her what she plans to do next. “I don’t know, it’s tough,” she relents. I agree, again. “I’d like to continue working with print. I’d love to design prints for an established designer.” I ask her who. “Vivienne Westwood would be a dream!” she exhales.
Pauline worked with high street designers during her degree. “I think I got more experience by working at that level,” she explains. Yet again, I agree, and I offer that when I was interning, the value of experience at smaller publications was so much more rewarding. “It may sound strange,” she finishes, “but I’d love to work in buying to. I’d love to be responsible for what’s stocked where.” She’s definitely one to watch in the future.

Two other designers were to be featured – Marko Mitanovski (Vogue’s ‘One to Watch’) and Jasper Garvida (winner of Project Runway 2008). I was informed that they would appear much, much later. After a gruelling day of shows and presentations, the thought of staying out any longer was terrifying. I was sorry to miss them, if Nakiwala’s collection was anything to go by.

modalsconfidence

Confidence Models, page in conjunction with Random Magazine, physician hosted a LFW after-party on Saturday night, to showcase three up-and-coming designers who had graduated this year.
Hosted at the Hoxton Pony, Shoreditch’s latest (s)wanky late bar, at first it seemed like it was going to be a bit of a non-event. I arrived early to stand a better chance of getting in – the dress code was pretty strict – and once in there I managed to fight my way past the other seven people and get to the free cocktails.
Pretty quickly though, the venue filled up nicely with very fashionable, incredibly good looking types. With the berry cocktails flowing and a good few faces to look at, the event was shaping up to be a good ‘un.

confidencemodelsparty1

Almost out of nowhere appeared two frighteningly tall models wearing fantastic graphic-print outfits. One, a maxi-dress with billowing sleeves, featured bold colours of red and blue with a childlike bird illustration. The other was a hooded jump-suit featuring a similar style of illustration and even more playful colours.

I caught up with the designer – the squeezable Pauline Nakiwala, respendent in a sequinned number and fluro eye-shadow. A recent Ravensbourne graduate, she was delighted to be featured at the event.

3_1

“I draw inspiration from my childhood,” she told me. “I love playful illustrations and bright colours.” I agree. I express that it’s great to see designers who are so confident with colour. “I love colour!” she shouts. I ask her what she plans to do next. “I don’t know, it’s tough,” she relents. I agree, again. “I’d like to continue working with print. I’d love to design prints for an established designer.” I ask her who. “Vivienne Westwood would be a dream!” she exhales.
Pauline worked with high street designers during her degree. “I think I got more experience by working at that level,” she explains. Yet again, I agree, and I offer that when I was interning, the value of experience at smaller publications was so much more rewarding. “It may sound strange,” she finishes, “but I’d love to work in buying to. I’d love to be responsible for what’s stocked where.” She’s definitely one to watch in the future.

Two other designers were to be featured – Marko Mitanovski (Vogue’s ‘One to Watch’) and Jasper Garvida (winner of Project Runway 2008). I was informed that they would appear much, much later. After a gruelling day of shows and presentations, the thought of staying out any longer was terrifying. I was sorry to miss them, if Nakiwala’s collection was anything to go by.

modalsconfidence

Confidence Models, website in conjunction with Random Magazine, generic hosted a LFW after-party on Saturday night, view to showcase three up-and-coming designers who had graduated this year.
Hosted at the Hoxton Pony, Shoreditch’s latest (s)wanky late bar, at first it seemed like it was going to be a bit of a non-event. I arrived early to stand a better chance of getting in – the dress code was pretty strict – and once in there I managed to fight my way past the other seven people and get to the free cocktails.
Pretty quickly though, the venue filled up nicely with very fashionable, incredibly good looking types. With the berry cocktails flowing and a good few faces to look at, the event was shaping up to be a good ‘un.

confidencemodelsparty1

Almost out of nowhere appeared two frighteningly tall models wearing fantastic graphic-print outfits. One, a maxi-dress with billowing sleeves, featured bold colours of red and blue with a childlike bird illustration. The other was a hooded jump-suit featuring a similar style of illustration and even more playful colours.

I caught up with the designer – the squeezable Pauline Nakiwala, respendent in a sequinned number and fluro eye-shadow. A recent Ravensbourne graduate, she was delighted to be featured at the event.

3_1

“I draw inspiration from my childhood,” she told me. “I love playful illustrations and bright colours.” I agree. I express that it’s great to see designers who are so confident with colour. “I love colour!” she shouts. I ask her what she plans to do next. “I don’t know, it’s tough,” she relents. I agree, again. “I’d like to continue working with print. I’d love to design prints for an established designer.” I ask her who. “Vivienne Westwood would be a dream!” she exhales.
Pauline worked with high street designers during her degree. “I think I got more experience by working at that level,” she explains. Yet again, I agree, and I offer that when I was interning, the value of experience at smaller publications was so much more rewarding. “It may sound strange,” she finishes, “but I’d love to work in buying to. I’d love to be responsible for what’s stocked where.” She’s definitely one to watch in the future.

Two other designers were to be featured – Marko Mitanovski (Vogue’s ‘One to Watch’) and Jasper Garvida (winner of Project Runway 2008). I was informed that they would appear much, much later. After a gruelling day of shows and presentations, the thought of staying out any longer was terrifying. I was sorry to miss them, if Nakiwala’s collection was anything to go by.

Photographs by Matt Bramford

modalsconfidence

Confidence Models, sale in conjunction with Random Magazine, buy hosted a LFW after-party on Saturday night, to showcase three up-and-coming designers who had graduated this year.
Hosted at the Hoxton Pony, Shoreditch’s latest (s)wanky late bar, at first it seemed like it was going to be a bit of a non-event. I arrived early to stand a better chance of getting in – the dress code was pretty strict – and once in there I managed to fight my way past the other seven people and get to the free cocktails.
Pretty quickly though, the venue filled up nicely with very fashionable, incredibly good looking types. With the berry cocktails flowing and a good few faces to look at, the event was shaping up to be a good ‘un.

confidencemodelsparty1

Almost out of nowhere appeared two frighteningly tall models wearing fantastic graphic-print outfits. One, a maxi-dress with billowing sleeves, featured bold colours of red and blue with a childlike bird illustration. The other was a hooded jump-suit featuring a similar style of illustration and even more playful colours.

I caught up with the designer – the squeezable Pauline Nakiwala, respendent in a sequinned number and fluro eye-shadow. A recent Ravensbourne graduate, she was delighted to be featured at the event.

3_1

“I draw inspiration from my childhood,” she told me. “I love playful illustrations and bright colours.” I agree. I express that it’s great to see designers who are so confident with colour. “I love colour!” she shouts. I ask her what she plans to do next. “I don’t know, it’s tough,” she relents. I agree, again. “I’d like to continue working with print. I’d love to design prints for an established designer.” I ask her who. “Vivienne Westwood would be a dream!” she exhales.
Pauline worked with high street designers during her degree. “I think I got more experience by working at that level,” she explains. Yet again, I agree, and I offer that when I was interning, the value of experience at smaller publications was so much more rewarding. “It may sound strange,” she finishes, “but I’d love to work in buying to. I’d love to be responsible for what’s stocked where.” She’s definitely one to watch in the future.

Two other designers were to be featured – Marko Mitanovski (Vogue’s ‘One to Watch’) and Jasper Garvida (winner of Project Runway 2008). I was informed that they would appear much, much later. After a gruelling day of shows and presentations, the thought of staying out any longer was terrifying. I was sorry to miss them, if Nakiwala’s collection was anything to go by.

Photographs by Matt Bramford

modalsconfidence

Confidence Models, there in conjunction with Random Magazine, visit this hosted a LFW after-party on Saturday night, side effects to showcase three up-and-coming designers who had graduated this year.
Hosted at the Hoxton Pony, Shoreditch’s latest (s)wanky late bar, at first it seemed like it was going to be a bit of a non-event. I arrived early to stand a better chance of getting in – the dress code was pretty strict – and once in there I managed to fight my way past the other seven people and get to the free cocktails.
Pretty quickly though, the venue filled up nicely with very fashionable, incredibly good looking types. With the berry cocktails flowing and a good few faces to look at, the event was shaping up to be a good ‘un.

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Almost out of nowhere appeared two frighteningly tall models wearing fantastic graphic-print outfits. One, a maxi-dress with billowing sleeves, featured bold colours of red and blue with a childlike bird illustration. The other was a hooded jump-suit featuring a similar style of illustration and even more playful colours.

I caught up with the designer – the squeezable Pauline Nakiwala, respendent in a sequinned number and fluro eye-shadow. A recent Ravensbourne graduate, she was delighted to be featured at the event.

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“I draw inspiration from my childhood,” she told me. “I love playful illustrations and bright colours.” I agree. I express that it’s great to see designers who are so confident with colour. “I love colour!” she shouts. I ask her what she plans to do next. “I don’t know, it’s tough,” she relents. I agree, again. “I’d like to continue working with print. I’d love to design prints for an established designer.” I ask her who. “Vivienne Westwood would be a dream!” she exhales.
Pauline worked with high street designers during her degree. “I think I got more experience by working at that level,” she explains. Yet again, I agree, and I offer that when I was interning, the value of experience at smaller publications was so much more rewarding. “It may sound strange,” she finishes, “but I’d love to work in buying to. I’d love to be responsible for what’s stocked where.” She’s definitely one to watch in the future.

Two other designers were to be featured – Marko Mitanovski (Vogue’s ‘One to Watch’) and Jasper Garvida (winner of Project Runway 2008). I was informed that they would appear much, much later. After a gruelling day of shows and presentations, the thought of staying out any longer was terrifying. I was sorry to miss them, if Nakiwala’s collection was anything to go by.

Photographs by Matt Bramford

s2010

The house of Jaeger fell by the wayside for many a year. In 2008 they presented their first womenswear collection to great acclaim (I remember and still do coverting a rather wonderful Trapeze coat/cape as it floated down the catwalk). The launch of the catwalk shows have seen it’s designers attempting to bring the archive designs up to date whilst remaining commercially viable.

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As the crowd was seated, illness many models from the campaign peppered the front row, cialis 40mg Erin O’Connor to Laura Bailey whilst model of the moment Lara Stone closed the show. Whispering excitedly as the lights began to dim, it felt as if the entire crowd suddenly snapped their heads to the right in chorographic glory. As Anna Wintour walked in through the back entrance, the expected press scrum ensured Ms. Wintour’s bodyguards gently pushed them out of the way.

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As the crowd re-settled as the lights began to dim in preparation for the show those famous sunglasses (and thankfully lack of the snakeskin coat she had been seen wearing previously) appeared on the face and the first model sauntered down the shaggy carpet covered catwalk.
Jaeger presented a grown up modern office wear collection that should be celebrated for it’s rejection of the skinny skinny body hugging trend that has been occupying many a catwalk at this year’s London Fashion Week.

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As expected for a house of 125 years their back catalogue provides the design team with fertile ground for inspiration. This year the design team revisited the late seventies photography of Guy Bourdin. Whose palette of ivory and apple explains the nostalgic sense inherent in the collection’s slightly old fashioned and prints. It was a catwalk that nodded to trends rather than be a slave to the product and desires of fast fashion.

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The rather wonderful super wide pleated shorts had a touch of Chloe s/s09 whilst the Harem pants were 80’s sequined glamour with a super baggy bum.
The oversize sweaters and cardigans were particular delights as was the body cum sweater that looked a potential summer time super short jumpsuit. These pieces appeared especially textural.
Block colors’. Statement jewellery accessorised the models alongside elegant clutches. Chiffon trousers were off set by an arguably but the aforementioned, old fashioned yet desirable colour palette. Perhaps because it was easy elegance and an incredibly feminine collection.

The trousers were high waisted with ruffled tops clinched in by belts as the fabric draped over the hips to create the Jaeger new “half-moon” shape. Thus continuing their designs for a softly structured silhouette.

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Knits were a strong feature on the catwalk continuing the seventies inspiration through the shimmery gold thread used in the items. The over-sized slouchy boyfriend cardigans countered the super structured bordering on the extreme of recent seasons often found on.

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It was a colour palette (Sepia, Apple) I enjoyed and I found the shapes of the clothes delivered the modernity, the classic tayloring needs transforming the clothes into soft relaxed wearability. Hopefully by continuing to draw on the strengths of it’s archives it will continue both as a catwalk to watch and clothes to invest in.

Categories ,british fashion council, ,Jaeger, ,London Fashion Week, ,S/S 2009, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Aminaka Wilmont S/S2010 – winged fancies

Kicking off with the haunting melody that is Placebo’s cover version of Kate Bush’s Running Up That Hill.

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Aminaka Wilmont were the last to show at Somerset House on Friday evening. (The song’s been around for a while, pilule but if you haven’t heard it, price check it out – it’s surprisingly beautiful).

Despite flailing after a punishing run of shows, it was difficult not to be immersed in the ethereal atmosphere of Aminaka Wilmont.

The garments sent down the catwalk celebrated the body. Where as a host of designers at this year’s London Fashion Week had created pieces to exaggerate or enhance the figure, Aminaka Wilmont’s collection did the opposite – fabric was moulded and shaped around the contours of the body for all to see.

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Some pieces were cut on the bias and included nips, flaps and tucks to sit on the body perfectly, creating a dynamic look…

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…While others draped elegantly but still managed to promote the body’s natural silhouette.

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Shorts were short, as were skirts. Subtle, apologetic prints in pale hues complimented the twists and turns of the fabric.

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The palette eased us in with tamed pastille pinks, tempted us with stronger blues and greens, and seduced us with black and silver.

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While the paletter grew more intense, the clothes became more daring. I particularly loved this leather number made from strips, which continued the fluidity of the theme…

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…while J. Smith Esquire produced contrasting head gear, such as this fabulous winged number.

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With smooth fabric engineering, innovative techniques and an obsession for shape and silhouette, Aminaka Wilmont’s debut On-Schedule collection was a fantastic addition to Fashion Week.

Photographs by Matt Bramford

Categories ,Aminka Wilmont, ,british fashion council, ,London Fashion Week 2009, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Menswear A/W 2010: James Long

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Illustration by Gemma Milly

James Long is bringing the boiler suit back, medical and he’s bringing it completed with printed references to the work of Bruce La Bruce, prostate an avante garde experimental film maker. Blood Stains made graphic (a recent exhibition of Wallpaper in Manchester featured wallpaper printed with splashed blood stains… one for avid CSI fans.)

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The Spring Summer collection provided functional Utilitarian and at times, damn pretty work wear, thanks to a variety of appearances by the following fabrics; Denim, Corduroy, Cotton, Leather and feathers.

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The collection was inspired by Laurie Anderson’s O Superman video.

The leather trousers from previous seasons made a welcome comeback, as did the continutation knitwear ranging from a fine knit to the chunkier variety.
James Long’s forte is his combination of contrasting materials.

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The corduroy was welcomed in it’s sheer thickness. Whilst Long’s use of a deep navy blue provided a richness increasing the texture of the garments.

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Illustration by Gemma Milly

Big Coats incase an environmental disaster does strike…

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The finale, the future still looks bleak… but beautifully designed.

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All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,british fashion council, ,Fashion East, ,James Long, ,London Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2010, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Man

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Amelia’s Magazine | David Longshaw, Father Said: New S/S 2012 Season Preview Interview

David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Abi Hall
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Abi Hall.

We’ve been following David Longshaw‘s career since we spotted him at Fashion Scout back in 2010. His work continues to evolve in intriguing directions, utilising his illustration and animations skills more than ever before…

We last spoke to you in 2010, what have been the biggest changes since then?
I’m now selling in Harrods as well as more shops in a variety of countries.

David Longshaw SS 2012
What was the inspiration behind Father Said, your S/S 2012 collection, and where does the accompanying story come from? (it’s quite dark!)
I created the story a few years ago for TANK magazine – but never used it for a collection. This season felt like the perfect time to use it and develop the characters. The story is a bit dark – but I think it can be fun to have a dark inspiration from time to time for something as frivolous and light as fashion – I like the contradiction. Here’s the story:

Father said it would have been… by David Longshaw
Father said it would be nice to go to the seaside. I’m not sure mother would have agreed; here I go getting all Alan Bennett. It wasn’t Alan Bennett like at all. That’s why I brought you here, a little nostalgic trip for me, unchartered territory for you. I was driving of course. Well you’d come to see me hadn’t you?
I didn’t expect it to happen. You know I didn’t. I hadn’t planned it. I mean I was all tired out from the drive. It was just these memories coming back that did it. I hadn’t told you about them had I?
“We could go round the castle you said,” but then we spied the purveyor of local delicacies and were ensnared by the intoxicating aroma.
Well, it would have been rude not to.

David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Mitika Chohan
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Mitika Chohan.

Monies were exchanged and we floated out on the emerald green sea of tiles, shimmering from the hedgehog that had just mopped them. It was you who pointed out she was a hedgehog- all little and bristly and nose twitching as she mopped that chip shop floor; scared by the preying silver fox in the corner (Trevor they called him from over the counter) with his suave, debonair mask- under which lurked a wild, preying animal ready for its next victim. At least that’s how he looked, sitting, pouting but that gentle trickle of saliva and the abstract motif that speckled his jacket- formed from chips and gravy, suggested otherwise.
We did laugh about that, chuckling, as you do, walking towards the sea. You spotted that sign, “Boat Trip to Puffin Island.” £4.50 each, but it was worth it. We saw seals, and jellyfish and went up really close to the island and there were so many little birds. I’m not sure if there were any puffins though, you said you’d seen one but that was you all over.
I’m sorry the rest of the day didn’t pan out quite as well for you. It’s just these memories coming back. Now I think of it, I was reading a book at the time with a puffin mentioned in it, so perhaps that’s what it was.
I’m awfully sorry all the same. Anyway not much I can do now other than tidy things up I suppose. Well there you go. You’re wrapped up now. It was handy I had that spade in the boot wasn’t it. I’ll just cover you up- the soil will keep you warm.”

David Longshaw SS 2012

How did you put together the animation for Father Said and why did you decide to put the story together in animated form?
I’ve always been fascinated by animation – I love creating characters and the idea of bringing them to life for people to watch in a little version of my world. It’s a massively time consuming medium – even for something as crudely done as mine, but that’s part of its beauty. I thought it was a natural next step for me to explore animation as I create a story and illustrate it each season. It’s a fun tool to explain my collection and to build interest in my label, and it’s a point of differentiation. There are so many fashion labels out there and the big fashion houses have huge adverting budgets to promote their collections – so by doing something creative it helps showcase my ideas and the plan is that people will hopefully enjoy what I do and want to keep seeing more.

David Longshaw SS12 by Janneke de Jong
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Janneke de Jong.

Putting it together was tricky as I’d never done it before and I thought it would be fun to do it all myself from a series of my illustrations (apart from the voice over which I got Jessica Bumpus to do). I did it using a very old mac – which seemed a good idea at the time until it became apparent that it was so old it wasn’t compatible with any others, or with upload programs to put it on Vimeo… which was unfortunate. But after a lot of pfaffing around I finally managed to get it on there and now it’s linked to my website as well. In the short term I’m planning to work on more short animations to develop with my collections. At some point in the future I would like to work on a more ambitious project with a much larger animation – perhaps even a stop motion model animation But I’d need a larger budget and a lot more time.

David Longshaw SS 2012
Why are narratives important?
Narratives help create the theme and tone of the collection – they inform everything from print and silhouette to the colour of the fabrics.

David Longshaw SS 2012
What was the inspiration behind the extravagant silhouettes in the S/S 2012 collection?
The idea was from the point in the story where Sophie accidentally kills her boyfriend, buries him, planting flowers over his burial place. The flowers grow and flow in to the dress she’s wearing. For the rest of her life she wears a flower to remind her of him. I wanted to convey the sense of the flowers growing and taking over what the wearer has on.

David Longshaw SS12 by Janneke de Jong
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Janneke de Jong.

How did your time at Max Mara equip you for working as an independent designer, and do you have any tips for those just starting out?
My time at both Max Mara and Alberta Ferretti was really useful for starting my own label – aesthetically my style (and indeed the style of the other labels) are very different, but in a way that works out better than if I was just doing a smaller version of either label. Day to day there are things I put in to practice that I learnt there. When you work for big fashion houses you get to see how very successful businesses and design houses work and what’s helped them to get there. But there’s always things you think you would do differently as well.

David Longshaw SS 2012
For people just starting out it’s good to get as much experience in the industry as possible, whether it’s from work experience, or actually designing for a label – if you want to start your own label straight away then try to get as much business advice as you can. Design schools teach how to pull a collection together but you have to know how to be a business person – if you don’t then you won’t have the money or the structure to be able to continue. It’s also really important to think what you want your label to be like – what’s your point of difference and what do you think you can do better than is already out there. It’s good to be aware of all the pitfalls with running your own label: financial, emotional, time constraints, constantly questioning yourself, knowing all the things that can go wrong, all the reasons not to do your own label… Then just go for it anyway!

David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs.

You are not just a fashion designer but also an accomplished illustrator, how do the two fit together?
They go well together – I use my illustrations in the prints of my collection. Both my design and illustration work inspire each other. When I illustrate for a mag it’s a fun way for people to see my work and see which other designers I like (as I get to select who I interview or illustrate) and it gives people another window in to my thinking. Then when I’m designing I think back to my illustration work and why I selected certain designers/pieces. I’m not trying to be like another designer but it makes me reflect on why I would choose one designer’s work over another.

David Longshaw SS 2012
How do your partnerships with footwear designer Heather Blake and milliner Katherine Lee work? What is the process of working together on a collection?
With Katherine Lee we work together throughout the season on different projects for the collection – from looking and reviewing the collection’s designs and progress to specific pieces she creates for me. With Heather we look at my designs and work out what would be cool to go with them – what elements we can bring out from the clothes and in to the shoes.

David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
David Longshaw S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs.

You also collaborate with girlfriend (and another Amelia’s Mag favourite) Kirsty Ward. How was the Christmas break with the Longshaw Wards? Did you do anything fun?
Christmas was great: there was a Maude fairy on top of the tree – there was still some pfaffing around with fabrics and pens (aka work) but also lots of fun – road trips to visit our families and friends. Then on New Year’s Eve we had a studio party in London and had some friends over.

David Longshaw SS 2012
What can we expect from A/W 2012? any tips?
More Maude: this season Maude’s taken over my collection and mashed it up with her own style… so basically she’s covered most of it with herself – from prints to bags, to scarves, to products…

David Longshaw SS 2012
Make sure you also check out our previous interview with David Longshaw here.

Categories ,Abi Hall, ,Alan Bennett, ,Alberta Ferretti, ,animation, ,David Longshaw, ,Father Said, ,Harrods, ,Heather Blake, ,illustration, ,interview, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Katherine Lee, ,Kirsty Ward, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Maude, ,Max Mara, ,Mitika Chohan, ,Puffin Island, ,S/S 2012, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,TANK magazine

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Amelia’s Magazine | Esthetica – Christopher Raeburn – Parachute

christopherraeburnParachutes B of B small

The Parachute provides stability whilst free-falling in mid air, dosage in the work of CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN however, view it is not stability that inspires his designs. Conscious of the unpredictable, and even volatile, current conditions of our climate, the garments have been made through the appropriation of old military parachutes. With the Earths sources and materials becoming increasingly scarce, his contemporary designs reform our past’s waste into functional and elegant macs, ponchos and parkas.

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Following this thread of transformation, the delicate aesthetic of RAEBURN’s garments is quite a world away from the brutality of the materials original military function. The almost transparent qualities of the garments possess a fragility and odd resemblance to the visuals of a jellyfish.

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Bending the lines of the silhouette with the fabrics play on light, the figure becomes fluid and elusive, deceitfully fragile looking when in reality, cleverly protected from day-to-day urban living.

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Sustainable clothing’ can’t be just another buzzword that will come and go with the fashions; it is a reaction to a concern and has occurred due to designers having the initiative to take responsibility for the things they produce. Our environment will constantly be changing, and only through sensitive and innovative design will our industries continue.

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By unearthing the fragments of our past RAEBURN manages to tailor a present equipped for flux and adventure. Adapting a device that functions as a precaution to a dangerous collision, between the impact of man falling hard down to earth, isn’t only a revealing metaphor for the reality shock of industry resource exploitation, it simultaneously demonstrates the ability to successfully (and stylishly) do something about it. These clothes are a sign of combat, ruthless self-critique and action.

Categories ,Christopher Raeburn, ,design, ,esthetica, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Jackets, ,Parachutes

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Amelia’s Magazine | Be KIND Everyone!

Prepare yourselves for quirky design group KIND! Injecting a healthy dose of cool to knitwear. The latest installment to their eccentric collections makes no exceptions fusing conceptual art with fashion, in a burst of colour and activity.

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The Design collaborative are no newcomers to the knitwear sphere and have been in production since 2005. Each collection showcases new and innovative styles, continually pushing the boundaries in conceptual yet functional knitwear design. KIND have been avid followers of ours here at Amelia’s magazine and vis versa, we even featured them in issue 7 ( which is still available to get your mits on by the way!) We just can’t get enough of them, so I thought it important to unleash their new S/S collection on you. So prepare your eyes for a visual feast!

The new collection banishes all recollection of winter embracing the joyous arrival of summer with a myriad of warm colours and shapes.

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The brand are heavily involved in photography, interbreeding art with fashion is of paramount importance to these cool cats. Just one look at their S/S 09 lookbook validates this statement. Pieces are set against vivid tapestries reminiscent of the fundamental cubist painter Henri Matisse.

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KIND’s
focus is on functional and wearable clothing. The collection offers all your staples from dresses,tanks, to jumpers, all in lightweight cashmeres. So perfect for those cross seasonal periods, when its too cold for a t-shirt yet too warm for a jumper.

Kind has enjoyed universal success, having stocked their collections in Labour of Love, Tatty Divine, Liberty, Collette in Paris, UK style in Moscow, Isetan in Tokyo. Gosh its making me breathless just listing them all…….

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So keep your eyes open for KIND, I have a sneaking suspicion we haven’t seen the last from this eccentric bunch!

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