Amelia’s Magazine | Vintage at Goodwood Review, by vintage enthusiast and fashion blogger Maria Domican


All photography by Maria Domican

I was nervous upon arriving at Vintage at Goodwood… Nervous because I had called in sick to work, more about this nervous because I had been hearing bad press about the event and mainly nervous because I had no idea what to expect.

I have to admit, web no matter how fashionable, arty and eco driven a festival is, a major emphasis has always been on being drunk and having a great, if somewhat crazy time… I couldn’t imagine myself getting wasted on ‘classic cocktails’ or ‘gin and tonics’, parading around campsites in my beloved vintage treasures and sleeping through bands in a dusty heap at Goodwood. Apparently that was exactly the crowd that organiser Wayne Hemingway was eager to discourage, not wanting those “out on the lash that leave a load of empty tins at their ripped tent”.

Goodwood was billed as ‘the first of what will be an annual music and fashion led celebration of creative British cool’ ‘The new festival of Britain’. But what was it? A vintage Fashion Fair? An exhibition? Or a festival? Featuring music, art, fashion, film and design I was puzzled as to how it would all come together.

None the less I was excited… I had packed a few of my 2nd favourite dresses (the dirt was still a worry!) far too many hats (and yes I carried them in a vintage hat box) and even two matching vintage parasols, for my friend and I to parade around with; in short, more than I would usually take on a week long holiday.

Upon arrival we were greeted by a red carpet and the famous British High Street. Made up like a spaghetti western, all wooden fronted shops, I felt like I had wandered onto a film set. The high street catered for the big brands: John Lewis, The Body Shop and Dr. Martins all had large stores with all the facilities of any other high street shop. It also was the home for the vintage cinema, a traditional British pub and even an Indian take away! The draw of the festival to many though – the vintage stalls – were down the two side streets in tents. These were much more bazaar-like in style; small cramped lines of tents exploding with clothes, accessories, and when it rained (which it did a lot) crammed in people unable to move.


Vintage shopping at Goodwood.

Bands such as The Faces, Buzzcocks, Heaven 17 and the Noisettes entertained the crowds but it was the fashion that was the main draw of the festival. Workshops taught sewing and knitting while Hardy Amies and Pearl and Daisy Lowe were among those with runway shows.


The Noisettes on the main stage.


Pearl and Daisy Lowe at their runway show.

Divided into eras, the festival celebrated five decades of British cool, with each area having a different ‘curator’ (supposed experts in that field).


The 1970s and 1980s zone curated by Greg Wilson featured a warehouse with interactive graffiti wall and a roller disco.

Also in the 1970s era was Eddie Miller’s Soul Casino nightclub – replicating a mid 70s ballroom and reminiscent of many a bad wedding reception, complete with 1970s swirly carpet, sprung dance floor, pool tables and low lighting – it was here that Wayne Hemingway performed his own DJ set on the Sunday.


Wayne Hemingway

The emphasis of the festival was definitely the 1940s and 1950s, however, with the majority of outfits being so themed and with one of the highlights being leading percussionist, producer and 1940s enthusiast Snowboy’s Tanqueray sponsored ‘Torch Club’: a 1940’s style supper club which served 3 course meals over the weekend, with waiter service and a full orchestra playing while you eat. Behind the club forties allotments and land girls held guess-the-weight-of-the-pumpkin competitions and the guys from The Chap held an Olympian event with cucumber sandwich tossing and tug-o-moustache.


Cucumber sandwich tossing at The Chap Olympiad


Moustache tug-o-war

Still in its first year, the festival organisers have room for improvement before next year’s. The website promised ‘an unparalleled attention to design and organisational detail’ which is a little optimistic considering the press pass debacle. Still, this was upheld in areas such as the attention to period detail in all shops and stages and that all events were first come first served and not fully booked up beforehand.
It’s possible the press pass debacle was a result of the PR company giving all 150 staff free weekend and camping tickets… of which apparently only 8 were used!

One stall holder also complained that they felt the festival had been miss-sold as they thought that the vintage stalls were going to be on the main high street not crammed into the side tents.

Whilst a lot of events over the weekend such as dance classes and the cinema were free, the main grumbles were still about the commercial emphasis of the festival, Bonham’s high profile auction, chain stores and a huge emphasis on shopping and spending money left a lot of people disgruntled, but apparently still willing to spend; Oxfam reportedly made £1000 in the first half hour of opening! Lily Allen‘s no-show to launch ‘Lucy in Disguise’ was probably a blessing in disguise as it prevented the focus of the weekend from being celebrity.

The ‘Glamping’ was on all accounts also seen to be a big disappointment. Situated at the bottom of the hill in the woods this area quickly became a muddy bog with the torrential rain and at £1200 for a tent with an airbed was seen as a complete rip off by many who didn’t even have hot showers. The same was true of the pods which had to move some people to tents due to complaints about size and not being able to stand up.


Glamorous campers.

For the regular campers, though, there were no problems. Many vintage tents, bunting strewn camps and campervans were on a chalk based slope which quickly drained and dressing rooms with full length mirrors and power points enabled everyone to dress up.


Dressing up rooms. Photography by Madeleine Lowry

…And dress up they did! Whilst the day trippers favoured fancy dress over true vintage and stuck to the high street, the weekend crowd were the highlight of the festival. A huge ego-boosting weekend, everyone went out of their way to compliment each other on their outfits and a general blitz spirit coupled with the friendly campsite and interactive nature of events ensured that everyone was quick to make new friends.

Overall the weekend offered an overwhelming range of activities to take part in or witness, and hopefully with the kinks ironed out before next year, things can only get better for Goodwood.



Fashion at Goodwood.

You can read our insightful preview of Vintage at Goodwood here, and Amelia’s experience of the festival here.

Categories ,1940s, ,1950s, ,1960s, ,1970s, ,1980s, ,art, ,British cool, ,British High Street, ,Buzzcocks, ,Cocktails, ,daisy lowe, ,Dr. Martins, ,Eddie Miller, ,fashion, ,Gin & Tonic, ,Glamping, ,Hardy Amies, ,Heaven 17, ,Indian takeaway, ,John Lewis, ,lily allen, ,Lucy in Disguise, ,music, ,Noisettes, ,Olympiad, ,oxfam, ,Parasols, ,Pearl Lowe, ,Snowboy, ,Soul Casino, ,Tanqueray, ,The Blitz, ,The Body Shop, ,The Chap, ,The Faces, ,Vintage at Goodwood, ,Wayne Hemmingway

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Amelia’s Magazine | Vintage at Goodwood Review, by vintage enthusiast and fashion blogger Maria Domican


All photography by Maria Domican

I was nervous upon arriving at Vintage at Goodwood… Nervous because I had called in sick to work, nervous because I had been hearing bad press about the event and mainly nervous because I had no idea what to expect.

I have to admit, no matter how fashionable, arty and eco driven a festival is, a major emphasis has always been on being drunk and having a great, if somewhat crazy time… I couldn’t imagine myself getting wasted on ‘classic cocktails’ or ‘gin and tonics’, parading around campsites in my beloved vintage treasures and sleeping through bands in a dusty heap at Goodwood. Apparently that was exactly the crowd that organiser Wayne Hemingway was eager to discourage, not wanting those “out on the lash that leave a load of empty tins at their ripped tent”.

Goodwood was billed as ‘the first of what will be an annual music and fashion led celebration of creative British cool’ ‘The new festival of Britain’. But what was it? A vintage Fashion Fair? An exhibition? Or a festival? Featuring music, art, fashion, film and design I was puzzled as to how it would all come together.

None the less I was excited… I had packed a few of my 2nd favourite dresses (the dirt was still a worry!) far too many hats (and yes I carried them in a vintage hat box) and even two matching vintage parasols, for my friend and I to parade around with; in short, more than I would usually take on a week long holiday.

Upon arrival we were greeted by a red carpet and the famous British High Street. Made up like a spaghetti western, all wooden fronted shops, I felt like I had wandered onto a film set. The high street catered for the big brands: John Lewis, The Body Shop and Dr. Martins all had large stores with all the facilities of any other high street shop. It also was the home for the vintage cinema, a traditional British pub and even an Indian take away! The draw of the festival to many though – the vintage stalls – were down the two side streets in tents. These were much more bazaar-like in style; small cramped lines of tents exploding with clothes, accessories, and when it rained (which it did a lot) crammed in people unable to move.


Vintage shopping at Goodwood.

Bands such as The Faces, Buzzcocks, Heaven 17 and the Noisettes entertained the crowds but it was the fashion that was the main draw of the festival. Workshops taught sewing and knitting while Hardy Amies and Pearl and Daisy Lowe were among those with runway shows.


The Noisettes on the main stage.


Pearl and Daisy Lowe at their runway show.

Divided into eras, the festival celebrated five decades of British cool, with each area having a different ‘curator’ (supposed experts in that field).


The 1970s and 1980s zone curated by Greg Wilson featured a warehouse with interactive graffiti wall and a roller disco.

Also in the 1970s era was Eddie Miller’s Soul Casino nightclub – replicating a mid 70s ballroom and reminiscent of many a bad wedding reception, complete with 1970s swirly carpet, sprung dance floor, pool tables and low lighting – it was here that Wayne Hemingway performed his own DJ set on the Sunday.


Wayne Hemingway

The emphasis of the festival was definitely the 1940s and 1950s, however, with the majority of outfits being so themed and with one of the highlights being leading percussionist, producer and 1940s enthusiast Snowboy’s Tanqueray sponsored ‘Torch Club’: a 1940’s style supper club which served 3 course meals over the weekend, with waiter service and a full orchestra playing while you eat. Behind the club forties allotments and land girls held guess-the-weight-of-the-pumpkin competitions and the guys from The Chap held an Olympian event with cucumber sandwich tossing and tug-o-moustache.


Cucumber sandwich tossing at The Chap Olympiad


Moustache tug-o-war

Still in its first year, the festival organisers have room for improvement before next year’s. The website promised ‘an unparalleled attention to design and organisational detail’ which is a little optimistic considering the press pass debacle. Still, this was upheld in areas such as the attention to period detail in all shops and stages and that all events were first come first served and not fully booked up beforehand.
It’s possible the press pass debacle was a result of the PR company giving all 150 staff free weekend and camping tickets… of which apparently only 8 were used!

One stall holder also complained that they felt the festival had been miss-sold as they thought that the vintage stalls were going to be on the main high street not crammed into the side tents.

Whilst a lot of events over the weekend such as dance classes and the cinema were free, the main grumbles were still about the commercial emphasis of the festival, Bonham’s high profile auction, chain stores and a huge emphasis on shopping and spending money left a lot of people disgruntled, but apparently still willing to spend; Oxfam reportedly made £1000 in the first half hour of opening! Lily Allen’s no-show to launch ‘Lucy in Disguise’ was probably a blessing in disguise as it prevented the focus of the weekend from being celebrity.

The ‘Glamping’ was on all accounts also seen to be a big disappointment. Situated at the bottom of the hill in the woods this area quickly became a muddy bog with the torrential rain and at £1200 for a tent with an airbed was seen as a complete rip off by many who didn’t even have hot showers. The same was true of the pods which had to move some people to tents due to complaints about size and not being able to stand up.


Glamorous campers.

For the regular campers, though, there were no problems. Many vintage tents, bunting strewn camps and campervans were on a chalk based slope which quickly drained and dressing rooms with full length mirrors and power points enabled everyone to dress up.


Dressing up rooms. Photography by Madeleine Lowry

…And dress up they did! Whilst the day trippers favoured fancy dress over true vintage and stuck to the high street, the weekend crowd were the highlight of the festival. A huge ego-boosting weekend, everyone went out of their way to compliment each other on their outfits and a general blitz spirit coupled with the friendly campsite and interactive nature of events ensured that everyone was quick to make new friends.

Overall the weekend offered an overwhelming range of activities to take part in or witness, and hopefully with the kinks ironed out before next year, things can only get better for Goodwood.



Fashion at Goodwood.

You can read our insightful preview of Vintage at Goodwood here, and Amelia’s experience of the festival here.



Categories ,1940s, ,1950s, ,1960s, ,1970s, ,1980s, ,art, ,British cool, ,British High Street, ,Buzzcocks, ,Cocktails, ,daisy lowe, ,Dr. Martins, ,Eddie Miller, ,fashion, ,Gin & Tonic, ,Glamping, ,Hardy Amies, ,Heaven 17, ,Indian takeaway, ,John Lewis, ,lily allen, ,Lucy in Disguise, ,music, ,Noisettes, ,Olympiad, ,oxfam, ,Parasols, ,Pearl Lowe, ,Snowboy, ,Soul Casino, ,Tanqueray, ,The Blitz, ,The Body Shop, ,The Chap, ,The Faces, ,Vintage at Goodwood, ,Wayne Hemmingway

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Amelia’s Magazine | Who’s the Man? exhibition and an interview with the artist, Rudy de Belgeonne

Design by Ruth Hill, pills Illustration by Dee Andrews

This week’s wet Monday was brightened up considerably by a trip to the Royal Collage of Art’s first work-in-progress show of 2011 – and before you ask, drugs no, I was not suffering from “Blue Monday” or the notion that yesterday was the most depressing day of the year. as Ben Goldacre (Bad Science) discussed over on his blog, the concept behind this ‘condition’ was made up by a PR company, with the aim to sell more holidays…

Finishing on Wednesday, 19th January, the Work-In-Progress show is a great opportunity for current BA Students, graduates and the public to see the developing ideas in the fields of Fashion, Textiles, Metalwork and Jewellery, Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, and Photography. Whilst the photography and the filmmaking are breathtaking, warranting a trip to the RCA by themselves, I will mainly be focusing on the Menswear and Womenswear Year Two students.

Tariq Mahmoud

Tariq Mahmoud’s shoe was inspired by watching the penguins at the penguin pool of London Zoo. The unique presentation of his shoe within a fish bowl with a couple of toy penguins for company, was certainly eye catching, drawing your attention to the similarities between flipper and shoe.

This wonderful sweater half suspended within the cloth, from it was cut is reminiscent of Issey Miyake’s A Piece of Cloth or A-Poc (see Fashion Editor Matt Bramford’s wonderful article on Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion at the Barbican). Unfortunately I could not find a name to accredit the design too…

Aleksandra Domansehay

The RCA Interim show is a fantastic opportunity to see how ideas circulating within contemporary fashion are being dissected by students studying the craft. Aleksandra Domansehay’s oversized mac in a traditional plaid is a great example of how classic shapes are constantly being reinvented.

Orshel-Read

It was amazing to discover, that one of Amelia’s Magazine favourite London Fashion Week designers Orschel-Read is still a student!
Design by Orschel-Read, Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Cherie Newing

I loved Cherie Newing’s take on the ubiquitous fisherman’s jumper.

Sol Auri

Menswear Year 2 student, Sol Auri’s breathtaking combination of triomphe d’oeil and matching fabrics.

Samuel Membey

Samuel Membey’s coat revisits the … as beloved by punks as captured in the wonderful photography book Skins by Gavin Watson.

Ruth Hill

In Womenswear Knit, Ruth Hill’s simple orange dress was highly reminiscent of Paul Klee.

Lily Kamber

Lily Kamber’s fantastic mixed media pieces used found objects to create pieces of jewellery more at home in the art deco settings of William Morris…

Finally I came upon the research section of the Royal College’s Mphil department and the wonderful work of Jungeun Lee. Lee’s experiments with synthetic fabrics – creating garments without the need for pattern cutting, sowing, knitting or weaving – reminded me again of the ground breaking A-Poc (A piece of Cloth) and Issey Miyake’s latest venture, 132 5 , an “experiment in steam pressed polygons of material” (thanks Fashion Ed, Matt Bramford!). Lee created her pieces by molding hot synthetic fibres into a 3D Structure.

Hurry up! What are you waiting for? Head down to the Royal College of Art before 5.30pm Wendesday 19th January.

Visit the Royal College of Art’s website for full updates on their upcoming in-progress shows and public lectures. I’m particularly looking forward to the collaboration between RCA MA Curating Contemporary Art and Goldsmiths MFA Curating students, Testing Ground: Time Scale.

Design by Ruth Hill, buy information pills Illustration by Dee Andrews

This week’s wet Monday was brightened up considerably by a trip to the Royal Collage of Art’s first work-in-progress show of 2011 – and before you ask, viagra no, I was not suffering from “Blue Monday” or the notion that yesterday was the most depressing day of the year. as Ben Goldacre (Bad Science) discussed over on his blog, the concept behind this ‘condition’ was made up by a PR company, with the aim to sell more holidays…

Finishing on Wednesday, 19th January, the Work-In-Progress show is a great opportunity for current BA Students, graduates and the public to see the developing ideas in the fields of Fashion, Textiles, Metalwork and Jewellery, Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, and Photography. Whilst the photography and the filmmaking are breathtaking, warranting a trip to the RCA by themselves, I will mainly be focusing on the Menswear and Womenswear Year Two students.

Tariq Mahmoud

Tariq Mahmoud’s shoe was inspired by watching the penguins at the penguin pool of London Zoo. The unique presentation of his shoe within a fish bowl with a couple of toy penguins for company, was certainly eye catching, drawing your attention to the similarities between flipper and shoe.

This wonderful sweater half suspended within the cloth, from it was cut is reminiscent of Issey Miyake’s A Piece of Cloth or A-Poc (see Fashion Editor Matt Bramford’s wonderful article on Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion at the Barbican). Unfortunately I could not find a name to accredit the design too…

Aleksandra Domansehay

The RCA Interim show is a fantastic opportunity to see how ideas circulating within contemporary fashion are being dissected by students studying the craft. Aleksandra Domansehay’s oversized mac in a traditional plaid is a great example of how classic shapes are constantly being reinvented.

Orshel-Read

It was amazing to discover, that one of Amelia’s Magazine favourite London Fashion Week designers Orschel-Read is still a student!
Design by Orschel-Read, Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Cherie Newing

I loved Cherie Newing’s take on the ubiquitous fisherman’s jumper.

Sol Auri

Menswear Year 2 student, Sol Auri’s breathtaking combination of triomphe d’oeil and matching fabrics.

Samuel Membey

Samuel Membey’s coat revisits the … as beloved by punks as captured in the wonderful photography book Skins by Gavin Watson.

Ruth Hill

In Womenswear Knit, Ruth Hill’s simple orange dress was highly reminiscent of Paul Klee.

Lily Kamber

Lily Kamber’s fantastic mixed media pieces used found objects to create pieces of jewellery more at home in the art deco settings of William Morris…

Finally I came upon the research section of the Royal College’s Mphil department and the wonderful work of Jungeun Lee. Lee’s experiments with synthetic fabrics – creating garments without the need for pattern cutting, sowing, knitting or weaving – reminded me again of the ground breaking A-Poc (A piece of Cloth) and Issey Miyake’s latest venture, 132 5 , an “experiment in steam pressed polygons of material” (thanks Fashion Ed, Matt Bramford!). Lee created her pieces by molding hot synthetic fibres into a 3D Structure.

Hurry up! What are you waiting for? Head down to the Royal College of Art before 5.30pm Wendesday 19th January.

Visit the Royal College of Art’s website for full updates on their upcoming in-progress shows and public lectures. I’m particularly looking forward to the collaboration between RCA MA Curating Contemporary Art and Goldsmiths MFA Curating students, Testing Ground: Time Scale.

Design by Ruth Hill, store Illustration by Dee Andrews

This week’s wet Monday was brightened up considerably by a trip to the Royal Collage of Art’s first work-in-progress show of 2011 – and before you ask, viagra buy no, this site I was not suffering from “Blue Monday” or the notion that yesterday was the most depressing day of the year. as Ben Goldacre (Bad Science) discussed over on his blog, the concept behind this ‘condition’ was made up by a PR company, with the aim to sell more holidays…

Finishing on Wednesday, 19th January, the Work-In-Progress show is a great opportunity for current BA Students, graduates and the public to see the developing ideas in the fields of Fashion, Textiles, Metalwork and Jewellery, Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, and Photography. Whilst the photography and the filmmaking are breathtaking, warranting a trip to the RCA by themselves, I will mainly be focusing on the Menswear and Womenswear Year Two students.

Tariq Mahmoud

Tariq Mahmoud’s shoe was inspired by watching the penguins at the penguin pool of London Zoo. The unique presentation of his shoe within a fish bowl with a couple of toy penguins for company, was certainly eye catching, drawing your attention to the similarities between flipper and shoe.

This wonderful sweater half suspended within the cloth, from it was cut is reminiscent of Issey Miyake’s A Piece of Cloth or A-Poc (see Fashion Editor Matt Bramford’s wonderful article on Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion at the Barbican). Unfortunately I could not find a name to accredit the design too…

Aleksandra Domansehay

The RCA Interim show is a fantastic opportunity to see how ideas circulating within contemporary fashion are being dissected by students studying the craft. Aleksandra Domansehay’s oversized mac in a traditional plaid is a great example of how classic shapes are constantly being reinvented.

Orshel-Read

It was amazing to discover, that one of Amelia’s Magazine favourite London Fashion Week designers Orschel-Read is still a student!
Design by Orschel-Read, Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Cherie Newing

I loved Cherie Newing’s take on the ubiquitous fisherman’s jumper.

Sol Ahn

Menswear Year 2 student and intriguing illustrator, Sol Ahn displayed this breathtaking combination of a triomphe d’oeil shirt and cardigan with fabrics to match the illustrations!

Samuel Membey

Samuel Membey’s coat revisits the … as beloved by punks as captured in the wonderful photography book Skins by Gavin Watson.

Ruth Hill

In Womenswear Knit, Ruth Hill’s simple orange dress was highly reminiscent of Paul Klee.

Lily Kamber

Lily Kamber’s fantastic mixed media pieces used found objects to create pieces of jewellery more at home in the art deco settings of William Morris…

Finally I came upon the research section of the Royal College’s Mphil department and the wonderful work of Jungeun Lee. Lee’s experiments with synthetic fabrics – creating garments without the need for pattern cutting, sowing, knitting or weaving – reminded me again of the ground breaking A-Poc (A piece of Cloth) and Issey Miyake’s latest venture, 132 5 , an “experiment in steam pressed polygons of material” (thanks Fashion Ed, Matt Bramford!). Lee created her pieces by molding hot synthetic fibres into a 3D Structure.

Hurry up! What are you waiting for? Head down to the Royal College of Art before 5.30pm Wendesday 19th January.

Visit the Royal College of Art’s website for full updates on their upcoming in-progress shows and public lectures. I’m particularly looking forward to the collaboration between RCA MA Curating Contemporary Art and Goldsmiths MFA Curating students, Testing Ground: Time Scale.

Design by Ruth Hill, side effects Illustration by Dee Andrews

This week’s wet Monday was brightened up considerably by a trip to the Royal Collage of Art’s first work-in-progress show of 2011 – and before you ask, viagra approved no, diagnosis I was not suffering from “Blue Monday” or the notion that yesterday was the most depressing day of the year. as Ben Goldacre (Bad Science) discussed over on his blog, the concept behind this ‘condition’ was made up by a PR company, with the aim to sell more holidays…

Finishing on Wednesday, 19th January, the Work-In-Progress show is a great opportunity for current BA Students, graduates and the public to see the developing ideas in the fields of Fashion, Textiles, Metalwork and Jewellery, Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, and Photography. Whilst the photography and the filmmaking are breathtaking, warranting a trip to the RCA by themselves, I will mainly be focusing on the Menswear and Womenswear Year Two students.

Tariq Mahmoud

Tariq Mahmoud’s shoe was inspired by watching the penguins at the penguin pool of London Zoo. The unique presentation of his shoe within a fish bowl with a couple of toy penguins for company, was certainly eye catching, drawing your attention to the similarities between flipper and shoe.

This wonderful sweater half suspended within the cloth, from it was cut is reminiscent of Issey Miyake’s A Piece of Cloth or A-Poc (see Fashion Editor Matt Bramford’s wonderful article on Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion at the Barbican). Unfortunately I could not find a name to accredit the design too…

Aleksandra Domansehay

The RCA Interim show is a fantastic opportunity to see how ideas circulating within contemporary fashion are being dissected by students studying the craft. Aleksandra Domansehay’s oversized mac in a traditional plaid is a great example of how classic shapes are constantly being reinvented.

Orshel-Read

It was amazing to discover that one of Amelia’s Magazine favourite London Fashion Week designers Orschel-Read is still a student!
Design by Orschel-Read, Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Cherie Newing

I loved Cherie Newing’s take on the ubiquitous fisherman’s jumper.

Sol Ahn

Menswear Year 2 student and intriguing illustrator, Sol Ahn displayed this breathtaking combination of a triomphe d’oeil shirt and cardigan with fabrics to match the illustrations!

Samuel Membey

Samuel Membey’s coat revisits the … as beloved by punks as captured in the wonderful photography book Skins by Gavin Watson.

Ruth Hill

In Womenswear Knit, Ruth Hill’s simple orange dress with a subtle block print was beautifully reminiscent of the artist Paul Klee.

Lily Kamber

Lily Kamber’s fantastic mixed media pieces used found objects to create pieces of jewellery more at home in the art deco settings of William Morris…

Finally I came upon the research section of the Royal College’s Mphil department and the wonderful work of Jungeun Lee. Lee’s experiments with synthetic fabrics – creating garments without the need for pattern cutting, sowing, knitting or weaving – reminded me again of the ground breaking A-Poc (A piece of Cloth) and Issey Miyake’s latest venture, 132 5 , an “experiment in steam pressed polygons of material” (thanks Fashion Ed, Matt Bramford!). Lee created her pieces by molding hot synthetic fibres into a 3D Structure.

Hurry up! What are you waiting for? Head down to the Royal College of Art before 5.30pm Wendesday 19th January.

Visit the Royal College of Art’s website for full updates on their upcoming in-progress shows and public lectures. I’m particularly looking forward to the collaboration between RCA MA Curating Contemporary Art and Goldsmiths MFA Curating students, Testing Ground: Time Scale.

Design by Ruth Hill, link Illustration by Dee Andrews

This week’s wet Monday was brightened up considerably by a trip to the Royal Collage of Art’s first work-in-progress show of 2011 – and before you ask, unhealthy no, I was not suffering from “Blue Monday” or the notion that yesterday was the most depressing day of the year. as Ben Goldacre (Bad Science) discussed over on his blog, the concept behind this ‘condition’ was made up by a PR company, with the aim to sell more holidays…

Finishing on Wednesday, 19th January, the Work-In-Progress show is a great opportunity for current BA Students, graduates and the public to see the developing ideas in the fields of Fashion, Textiles, Metalwork and Jewellery, Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, and Photography. Whilst the photography and the filmmaking are breathtaking, warranting a trip to the RCA by themselves, I will mainly be focusing on the Menswear and Womenswear Year Two students.

Tariq Mahmoud

Tariq Mahmoud’s shoe was inspired by watching the penguins at the penguin pool of London Zoo. The unique presentation of his shoe within a fish bowl with a couple of toy penguins for company, was certainly eye catching, drawing your attention to the similarities between flipper and shoe.

This wonderful sweater half suspended within the cloth, from it was cut is reminiscent of Issey Miyake’s A Piece of Cloth or A-Poc (see Fashion Editor Matt Bramford’s wonderful article on Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion at the Barbican). Unfortunately I could not find a name to accredit the design too…

Aleksandra Domansehay

The RCA Interim show is a fantastic opportunity to see how ideas circulating within contemporary fashion are being dissected by students studying the craft. Aleksandra Domansehay’s oversized mac in a traditional plaid is a great example of how classic shapes are constantly being reinvented.

Orshel-Read

It was amazing to discover that one of Amelia’s Magazine favourite London Fashion Week designers Orschel-Read is still a student!
Design by Orschel-Read, Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Cherie Newing

I loved Cherie Newing’s take on the ubiquitous fisherman’s jumper.

Sol Ahn

Menswear Year 2 student and intriguing illustrator, Sol Ahn displayed this breathtaking combination of a triomphe d’oeil shirt and cardigan with fabrics to match the illustrations!

Samuel Membey

Samuel Membey’s overcoat revisits the skinhead movement of the 1970′s, as captured in Gavin Watson’s collection of photographs: Skins.

Ruth Hill

In Womenswear Knit, Ruth Hill’s simple orange dress with a subtle block print was beautifully reminiscent of the artist Paul Klee.

Lily Kamber

Lily Kamber’s fantastic mixed media pieces used found objects to create pieces of jewellery more at home in the art deco settings of William Morris…

In the M.Phil research section, I came across the wonderful work of Jungeun Lee. Lee’s experiments with synthetic fabrics – creating garments without the need for pattern cutting, sowing, knitting or weaving – reminded me again of the ground breaking A-Poc (A piece of Cloth) and Issey Miyake’s latest venture, 132 5, an “experiment in steam pressed polygons of material” (thanks Fashion Ed, Matt Bramford!). Lee created her pieces by molding hot synthetic fibres into a 3D Structure.

Hurry up! What are you waiting for? Head down to the Royal College of Art before 5.30pm Wendesday 19th January.

Visit the Royal College of Art’s website for full updates on their upcoming in-progress shows and public lectures. I’m particularly looking forward to the collaboration between RCA MA Curating Contemporary Art and Goldsmiths MFA Curating students, Testing Ground: Time Scale.


Illustration by Alexandra Rolfe

I almost didn’t make it to Rudy de Belgeonne‘s exhibition at the Exposure Gallery. It was a rainy Thursday and I’d already hiked to the Hipstamatic exhibition, seek and all I wanted to do was go home and watch EastEnders. Occasionally, it pays to miss EastEnders.


All photography by Matt Bramford

At the Exposure Gallery on Little Portland Street, Rudy has mounted a thousand wooden blocks, each with a different phrase representing a man. Y’know, everything from ‘Pal‘ and ‘Hero‘ to ‘Bad Ass‘, ‘Mofo‘ and ‘Gay Boy‘.

The blocks all proudly own their own hand-painted idioms in a varying array of typefaces, with themes like spaghetti western, 1970s disco and 1980s computer graphics. For anybody obsessed with type, this is a must-see exhibition.

But it isn’t just about typefaces or bright colours. Oh no. Rudy has pretty much mapped all the phrases and aphorisms that have come to represent the male. Song titles, common expressions and often insults are all presented, with the design of each block perfectly suiting each word. Masculine phrases like ‘Champ‘ and ‘Jock‘ are portrayed in bold, blocked fonts; ‘Sexy Mother Fucker‘ and ‘Baby Boy‘ have the flamboyant essence of the 1970s; and ‘Faggot‘ and ‘Friend of Dorothy‘ make use of more feminine typefaces.

I had a chat with Rudy to find out more about the exhibition…

What’s the story behind Who’s The Man??
It’s a very long and winding tale, with many false starts and wrong turnings. Although I studied as a painter years ago, I had been doing mostly digital commercial projects for about 10 years.  I had been working for about a year for a client who I won’t name, on a project that I hated – unpleasant subject, quite complex, very pressurised – so I thought I would keep myself sane by  starting a ‘nice simple’ painting project in my spare time. Also, there was an appeal in the tangibility of paint on wooden panels as an antidote to the nebulous nature of software.

I had always been interested in lists and collections – and also in typefaces and logos, and had an idea that I might do something that played on the words typography/type, and different types of women – the whole housewife, mother, goddess, whore thing amused me.  So I set about collecting as many words for a woman as I could think of.  Trouble was, when I started to actually paint them, something didn’t feel right.  I was painting the word ‘whore’, and it just felt – well – a bit impolite!  It occurred to me how most of the history of art is about the male gaze, woman as subject, men imposing their labels, philosophies, fantasies on their models.  It was then that I had a bit of a lightbulb moment.  Bought up without any paternal role model myself, I think I struggled a bit when I was younger with how one is suppose to behave as a man – what degree of sensitivity, what degree of softness should one allow to show.  So how much more interesting, more personal, how much….funnier,  to turn the gaze around and look at myself, to look at the male.  And how much more culturally relevant, at this time of true female ascendancy in the west, when male roles, behaviour – even purpose – are being questioned on a daily basis in culture and media.  There’s not much call for fighting or hunting these days, and that’s after all what we’re hard-wired to do. Even our breadwinning role is questionable, and there are many many men who – consciously or subconsciously – don’t quite know how they are meant to be.

So I started all over again – and I’m pleased I did, because the Man work has had such a good critical reception – I think in retrospect I may have been given a much harder time if I had worked away for five years and then presented 1000 clichés about women.  I have also become more wrapped up in the subject as it has evolved – reading up on gender politics and masculinity studies.  I came across the phrases ‘gender landscape’  and ‘psychic landscape’ which I hadn’t heard before,  and have come to think of the work almost as some kind of map that a man can stand in front of, and see arrayed before him all the things he could possibly be, and maybe plot his way through these landscapes – who am I? Who would I like to be? Who do I have the option to be but choose not to be? 

What do you hope to achieve with the project?
?First and foremost, with every project I have done, my aim is to seduce – to appeal through beautiful colour schemes and by making people laugh.  If they then start thinking about what kind of man they are, what kind of man they could be, what kind of man they are with, or what kind of man they have bought into the world, then that’s a total bonus for me.
I’m happy for the installation to travel around the world, being reconfigured to fit into different spaces – there are discussions about it going to Tokyo and San Francisco in coming months – selling prints and panel sets off the back of it.  There are also discussions about other merchandise – enamel dog-tags with the words of your choice.  I’m very interested in that point where the art of idea meets mass culture.


Illustration by Avril Kelly

How long has Who’s the Man been in the making? Have you had any help with it??
I started the project 5 years ago in quite a casual way just fitting it in around my day jobs, but I spent more and more time on it as it gained momentum and I realized I was onto something.  I took a studio 2 years ago and I started only doing part-time work so that I could spend more time painting, researching words and typefaces, and thinking about the composition of the piece.  For the last year I worked exclusively on Who’s The Man, and for the first half of 2010, even engaged some interns to help paint backgrounds as I struggled to finish in time for its first showing at the Future Gallery in June.  So it’s all my own work – but with the assistance of everyone who has seen it and given feedback. 
How did you come up with the different words, and how did you source the different typefaces??I have an Excel spreadsheet with more than 4000 words and phrases for a Man. I started out just listing every word I could think of – which was surprisingly many – I have always enjoyed language, and my everyday speech is peppered with phases such as Good Egg, Queer Fish, Rum Cove, Charlie Big Potatoes.  Then, when that started to run dry I turned to dictionaries and thesauruses.  Then I realised that there were a lot of song titles – Good Rockin’ Daddy, Sweet Talkin’ Guy, Mr Boombastic – and movie titles – Godfather, Invisible Man, Mr Majestic – so I turned to IMDB and iTunes.  Then of course, whenever people visited my studio they would challenge themselves to find words I had missed. It still happens whenever show the work – 99% of the time I already have the word people suggest, but I’m still happy to find a place for new ones if something really juicy comes up.

In terms of typefaces, I have a huge collection that I have gathered over the years – I’m a bit of a type geek – I photograph it whenever I see it, clip it from magazines, scan it in, and of course there are many good resources online.

Do you have any particular favourites?
?I’m a fan of all the old fashioned words and phrases that I have already mentioned – ones that I think should be more widely used.  But I also enjoy the juxtaposition of sets of words – Alpha Dog/Pussy Boy, Fancy Dan/Mama Man, Diamond Geezer/Flash Harry Champagne Charlie/Golden Bollocks

What or who has influenced Who’s the Man, or any of your other projects?
?Inspiration comes from all over the place. Conceptually, pop artists like Peter Blake, with his obsessive collections, bold forms and bright flat colours.  Graffiti artists like Margaret Kilgallen, and Ben Eine working today, for the power they manage to invest in the words.  I like a lot of outsider art for its sincerity and obsessive tunnel vision.  But also product packaging, advertising and vintage movie posters of course.

What’s next for the installation and Rudy?
?At the moment I’m still busy dealing with the interest stirred up by Who’s The Man? The installation rolls on from venue to venue, I’m repainting a lot of the panels as bespoke sets to order on a commission basis, and also releasing different configurations as limited edition prints. But I’m conscious that I need to balance all this with taking the idea forwards – I’m working on a range of projects to present the work in different ways – as animation, as an interactive installation, in book form, alongside photos/illustrations of actual men. And developing my next project of course – can’t say too much about it at this stage, but it will be a similar format, except involving images this time, alongside the words… •

Interestingly, I posted an image of ‘16 Gay Types‘ on Twitter – a screen-printed montage of 16 words Rudy has used to represent gay men, which is available as a large-scale print. I had a barrage of replies with suggestions for what could have been on there, and all the gays seemed to love it. I spoke to Rudy about this afterwards, and all of my Twitter pals’ suggestions (fruity examples such as ‘Backdoor Pirate‘) were on Rudy’s original list but he’d been reserved in which to use. Interestingly, he told me the exhibition had resonated mostly with women and gay men, and he believes this is because gay men have experienced longer periods of self-reflection and women think more about the men that surround them and the men they’ve brought into the world. Apparently, it just doesn’t do it for straight men. ‘I have had the odd hetero friend who has looked at it and I can see from looking at their face that it just doesn’t compute,’ Rudy told me.

I guess that’s down to machismo, but even the most alpha of males can find something to enjoy in this unique exhibition, even if it is only swooning over macho typefaces and words. But that’s just the start of it…

Categories ,1970s, ,1980s, ,Baby Boy, ,Ben Eine, ,Champ, ,Charlie Big Potatoes, ,Computer graphics, ,disco, ,EastEnders, ,Exposure Gallery, ,Faggot, ,Friend of Dorothy, ,Gay Boy, ,Good Egg, ,hero, ,IMDB, ,iTunes, ,Jock, ,london, ,Man, ,Margaret Kilgallen, ,MEN, ,Mofo, ,Pal, ,Peter Blake, ,Queer Fish, ,Rudy de Belgeonne, ,Rum Cove, ,Sexy Mother Fucker, ,Typefaces, ,Who’s The Man

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dame Elizabeth Taylor 1932 – 2011

THUMB Kee Boutique 2 Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Kee Boutique illustration by Faye West

Lately, salve I’ve been thinking a lot about what I want to do with myself. You know, life stuff. I am incredibly grateful for my job, especially as I have friends in dire unemployment situations but it doesn’t stop me from dreaming about the ‘what if’s’ and ‘one day’s’ . I don’t have a single dream job. I never have. I do however, In my slightly schizophrenic special way, harbour numerous secret career cravings. These range from the sublime (Anthropologist, midwife, Inventor) to the ridiculous (Pearly Queen, agony aunt, Riverdance star– seriously.) But most of all I hope that one day, once upon a time perhaps, I shall have the means and the balls to retreat from my office based 9-5 to own my own little handmade business. Something to do with sewing machines and being outside a lot and haberdasheries and old things and perhaps chickens and copper kettles and err, well I’m not sure what it is exactly yet or how on earth it would come together. But I always like meeting people who have taken the plunge to do something they love, so I was pretty intrigued to interview Keely for Amelia’s Magazine.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

Who are you and what floats your boat?!

I am Keely Brightmore and my clothes are Kee Boutique. I love everything pretty and vintage. I like nothing better than rooting through flea markets and car boots for hidden gems, pieces of lace, broaches, fabrics, whatever I can find, then creating something beautiful from something on its last legs!

Where are you from – do you love it or hate it? and does it influence your work?

I am from Yorkshire, in the countryside, and now live in Leeds. The nature and beauty of home is very inspirational to my work, but I also love the buzz of the city.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

When did you start the shop and what made you want to start it?

I started it in July last year, just after I graduated from university. I have always been creative, designing and using my mum’s sewing machine as a child. I started selling my clothes online, in markets and in other people’s shops but always dreamt of having my own shop.

Where do you see your shop in 5 years time?

My shop is in a beautiful art deco building with several other independent shops and I firstly aim to help make the whole thing a great place to visit in Leeds. I also use my shop as a studio where customers can find me behind my sewing machine making my new garments to sell both in the shop, online and elsewhere. I would like to expand where my clothes are available but still using an ethical method of production.

Some might say It was very brave to launch a new fashion business in a recession;  how have you found it?

There were times at first when I was slightly doubtful in the current climate but if people like something they still seem to be able to afford it! This is a full time thing but the shop is only be part of it. I also sell my clothes in other shops and online – there’s a whole world of like-minded buyers!

Kee Boutique by Madi Illustrates

Do you have any advice or top tips for any other aspiring entrepreneurs who might be inspired by you?

If you love what you are trying to do then you just have to keep with it, visualise where you want to be, and, if it’s what you really want to do, then you will get there. I look for inspiration everywhere without thinking about it and, if it’s in you, you won’t doubt yourself or think of it as a job. Enjoy it!

What have been the best and worst moments in running your business so far?

The hardest part was at the beginning trying to get established, budgeting, not having enough time for everything, let alone time off! It’s all worth it though and my favourite parts of doing this are meeting new creative people who I can learn from, doing fashion shows and photoshoots and seeing the results of everyone’s hard work. I also love seeing people wearing my designs!

Who are your style inspirations?

I adore icons from the 20’s to now, in particular Bridget Bardot, Jane Birkin, Rita Heyworth, Kate Bush… I love the French style, Paris and Lolita… My favourite major designers are Chloe and Chanel…

Do you have a favourite vintage era?

The 40’s is probably my favourite style era with floral tea dresses, lace and pearls, very feminine and elegant, although I get inspiration from the best bits of different era’s.

What are your ethical motivations? What gets you really fired up?

I either make brand new clothes from vintage materials or rework unloved vintage clothes so it is very important that all my pieces are 100% ethical. I hate disposable fashion – with a little time and love you can always find a vintage piece that is the same as what you would find on the high street, except better quality, greener and way more interesting!

Do you have any secret career cravings?!

I do what I do because I love it so this is my career craving!

I think myself lucky to be passionate enough about something that can also be my living so it seemed natural for me to follow it. I think if people have a strong enough dream that can become reality they should be less fearful of following it, whether it is starting a business, travelling, providing for your family or exploring your talent.

Visit Kee Boutique Here

Kee Boutique illustration by Faye West

Lately, cheap I’ve been thinking a lot about what I want to do with myself. You know, viagra life stuff. I am incredibly grateful for my job, especially as I have friends in dire unemployment situations but it doesn’t stop me from dreaming about the ‘what if’s’ and ‘one day’s’ . I don’t have a single dream job. I never have. I do however, In my slightly schizophrenic special way, harbour numerous secret career cravings. These range from the sublime (Anthropologist, midwife, Inventor) to the ridiculous (Pearly Queen, agony aunt, Riverdance star– seriously.) But most of all I hope that one day, once upon a time perhaps, I shall have the means and the balls to retreat from my office based 9-5 to own my own little handmade business. Something to do with sewing machines and being outside a lot and haberdasheries and old things and perhaps chickens and copper kettles and err, well I’m not sure what it is exactly yet or how on earth it would come together. But I always like meeting people who have taken the plunge to do something they love, so I was pretty intrigued to interview Keely for Amelia’s Magazine.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

Who are you and what floats your boat?!

I am Keely Brightmore and my clothes are Kee Boutique. I love everything pretty and vintage. I like nothing better than rooting through flea markets and car boots for hidden gems, pieces of lace, broaches, fabrics, whatever I can find, then creating something beautiful from something on its last legs!

Where are you from – do you love it or hate it? and does it influence your work?

I am from Yorkshire, in the countryside, and now live in Leeds. The nature and beauty of home is very inspirational to my work, but I also love the buzz of the city.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

When did you start the shop and what made you want to start it?

I started it in July last year, just after I graduated from university. I have always been creative, designing and using my mum’s sewing machine as a child. I started selling my clothes online, in markets and in other people’s shops but always dreamt of having my own shop.

Where do you see your shop in 5 years time?

My shop is in a beautiful art deco building with several other independent shops and I firstly aim to help make the whole thing a great place to visit in Leeds. I also use my shop as a studio where customers can find me behind my sewing machine making my new garments to sell both in the shop, online and elsewhere. I would like to expand where my clothes are available but still using an ethical method of production.

Some might say It was very brave to launch a new fashion business in a recession;  how have you found it?

There were times at first when I was slightly doubtful in the current climate but if people like something they still seem to be able to afford it! This is a full time thing but the shop is only be part of it. I also sell my clothes in other shops and online – there’s a whole world of like-minded buyers!

Kee Boutique by Madi Illustrates

Do you have any advice or top tips for any other aspiring entrepreneurs who might be inspired by you?

If you love what you are trying to do then you just have to keep with it, visualise where you want to be, and, if it’s what you really want to do, then you will get there. I look for inspiration everywhere without thinking about it and, if it’s in you, you won’t doubt yourself or think of it as a job. Enjoy it!

What have been the best and worst moments in running your business so far?

The hardest part was at the beginning trying to get established, budgeting, not having enough time for everything, let alone time off! It’s all worth it though and my favourite parts of doing this are meeting new creative people who I can learn from, doing fashion shows and photoshoots and seeing the results of everyone’s hard work. I also love seeing people wearing my designs!

Who are your style inspirations?

I adore icons from the 20’s to now, in particular Bridget Bardot, Jane Birkin, Rita Heyworth, Kate Bush… I love the French style, Paris and Lolita… My favourite major designers are Chloe and Chanel…

Do you have a favourite vintage era?

The 40’s is probably my favourite style era with floral tea dresses, lace and pearls, very feminine and elegant, although I get inspiration from the best bits of different era’s.

What are your ethical motivations? What gets you really fired up?

I either make brand new clothes from vintage materials or rework unloved vintage clothes so it is very important that all my pieces are 100% ethical. I hate disposable fashion – with a little time and love you can always find a vintage piece that is the same as what you would find on the high street, except better quality, greener and way more interesting!

Do you have any secret career cravings?!

I do what I do because I love it so this is my career craving!

I think myself lucky to be passionate enough about something that can also be my living so it seemed natural for me to follow it. I think if people have a strong enough dream that can become reality they should be less fearful of following it, whether it is starting a business, travelling, providing for your family or exploring your talent.

Visit Kee Boutique Here

Kee Boutique illustration by Faye West

Lately, viagra sale I’ve been thinking a lot about what I want to do with myself. You know, illness life stuff. I am incredibly grateful for my job, especially as I have friends in dire unemployment situations but it doesn’t stop me from dreaming about the ‘what if’s’ and ‘one day’s’ . I don’t have a single dream job. I never have. I do however, In my slightly schizophrenic special way, harbour numerous secret career cravings. These range from the sublime (Anthropologist, midwife, Inventor) to the ridiculous (Pearly Queen, agony aunt, Riverdance star– seriously.) But most of all I hope that one day, once upon a time perhaps, I shall have the means and the balls to retreat from my office based 9-5 to own my own little handmade business. Something to do with sewing machines and being outside a lot and haberdasheries and old things and perhaps chickens and copper kettles and err, well I’m not sure what it is exactly yet or how on earth it would come together. But I always like meeting people who have taken the plunge to do something they love, so I was pretty intrigued to interview Keely for Amelia’s Magazine.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

Who are you and what floats your boat?!

I am Keely Brightmore and my clothes are Kee Boutique. I love everything pretty and vintage. I like nothing better than rooting through flea markets and car boots for hidden gems, pieces of lace, broaches, fabrics, whatever I can find, then creating something beautiful from something on its last legs!

Where are you from – do you love it or hate it? and does it influence your work?

I am from Yorkshire, in the countryside, and now live in Leeds. The nature and beauty of home is very inspirational to my work, but I also love the buzz of the city.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

When did you start the shop and what made you want to start it?

I started it in July last year, just after I graduated from university. I have always been creative, designing and using my mum’s sewing machine as a child. I started selling my clothes online, in markets and in other people’s shops but always dreamt of having my own shop.

Where do you see your shop in 5 years time?

My shop is in a beautiful art deco building with several other independent shops and I firstly aim to help make the whole thing a great place to visit in Leeds. I also use my shop as a studio where customers can find me behind my sewing machine making my new garments to sell both in the shop, online and elsewhere. I would like to expand where my clothes are available but still using an ethical method of production.

Some might say It was very brave to launch a new fashion business in a recession;  how have you found it?

There were times at first when I was slightly doubtful in the current climate but if people like something they still seem to be able to afford it! This is a full time thing but the shop is only be part of it. I also sell my clothes in other shops and online – there’s a whole world of like-minded buyers!

Kee Boutique by Madi Illustrates

Do you have any advice or top tips for any other aspiring entrepreneurs who might be inspired by you?

If you love what you are trying to do then you just have to keep with it, visualise where you want to be, and, if it’s what you really want to do, then you will get there. I look for inspiration everywhere without thinking about it and, if it’s in you, you won’t doubt yourself or think of it as a job. Enjoy it!

What have been the best and worst moments in running your business so far?

The hardest part was at the beginning trying to get established, budgeting, not having enough time for everything, let alone time off! It’s all worth it though and my favourite parts of doing this are meeting new creative people who I can learn from, doing fashion shows and photoshoots and seeing the results of everyone’s hard work. I also love seeing people wearing my designs!

Who are your style inspirations?

I adore icons from the 20’s to now, in particular Bridget Bardot, Jane Birkin, Rita Heyworth, Kate Bush… I love the French style, Paris and Lolita… My favourite major designers are Chloe and Chanel…

Do you have a favourite vintage era?

The 40’s is probably my favourite style era with floral tea dresses, lace and pearls, very feminine and elegant, although I get inspiration from the best bits of different era’s.

What are your ethical motivations? What gets you really fired up?

I either make brand new clothes from vintage materials or rework unloved vintage clothes so it is very important that all my pieces are 100% ethical. I hate disposable fashion – with a little time and love you can always find a vintage piece that is the same as what you would find on the high street, except better quality, greener and way more interesting!

Do you have any secret career cravings?!

I do what I do because I love it so this is my career craving!

I think myself lucky to be passionate enough about something that can also be my living so it seemed natural for me to follow it. I think if people have a strong enough dream that can become reality they should be less fearful of following it, whether it is starting a business, travelling, providing for your family or exploring your talent.

Visit Kee Boutique Here

Kee Boutique illustration by Faye West

Lately, diagnosis I’ve been thinking a lot about what I want to do with myself. You know, viagra dosage life stuff. I am incredibly grateful for my job, especially as I have friends in dire unemployment situations but it doesn’t stop me from dreaming about the ‘what if’s’ and ‘one day’s’ . I don’t have a single dream job. I never have. I do however, In my slightly schizophrenic special way, harbour numerous secret career cravings. These range from the sublime (Anthropologist, midwife, Inventor) to the ridiculous (Pearly Queen, agony aunt, Riverdance star– seriously.) But most of all I hope that one day, once upon a time perhaps, I shall have the means and the balls to retreat from my office based 9-5 to own my own little handmade business. Something to do with sewing machines and being outside a lot and haberdasheries and old things and perhaps chickens and copper kettles and err, well I’m not sure what it is exactly yet or how on earth it would come together. But I always like meeting people who have taken the plunge to do something they love, so I was pretty intrigued to interview Keely for Amelia’s Magazine.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

Who are you and what floats your boat?!

I am Keely Brightmore and my clothes are Kee Boutique. I love everything pretty and vintage. I like nothing better than rooting through flea markets and car boots for hidden gems, pieces of lace, broaches, fabrics, whatever I can find, then creating something beautiful from something on its last legs!

Where are you from – do you love it or hate it? and does it influence your work?

I am from Yorkshire, in the countryside, and now live in Leeds. The nature and beauty of home is very inspirational to my work, but I also love the buzz of the city.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

When did you start the shop and what made you want to start it?

I started it in July last year, just after I graduated from university. I have always been creative, designing and using my mum’s sewing machine as a child. I started selling my clothes online, in markets and in other people’s shops but always dreamt of having my own shop.

Where do you see your shop in 5 years time?

My shop is in a beautiful art deco building with several other independent shops and I firstly aim to help make the whole thing a great place to visit in Leeds. I also use my shop as a studio where customers can find me behind my sewing machine making my new garments to sell both in the shop, online and elsewhere. I would like to expand where my clothes are available but still using an ethical method of production.

Some might say It was very brave to launch a new fashion business in a recession;  how have you found it?

There were times at first when I was slightly doubtful in the current climate but if people like something they still seem to be able to afford it! This is a full time thing but the shop is only be part of it. I also sell my clothes in other shops and online – there’s a whole world of like-minded buyers!

Kee Boutique by Madi Illustrates

Do you have any advice or top tips for any other aspiring/fledgling business entrepreneurs?

If you love what you are trying to do then you just have to keep with it, visualise where you want to be, and, if it’s what you really want to do, then you will get there. I look for inspiration everywhere without thinking about it and, if it’s in you, you won’t doubt yourself or think of it as a job. Enjoy it!

What have been the best and worst moments in running your business so far?

The hardest part was at the beginning trying to get established, budgeting, not having enough time for everything, let alone time off! It’s all worth it though and my favourite parts of doing this are meeting new creative people who I can learn from, doing fashion shows and photoshoots and seeing the results of everyone’s hard work. I also love seeing people wearing my designs!

Who are your style inspirations?

I adore icons from the 20’s to now, in particular Bridget Bardot, Jane Birkin, Rita Heyworth, Kate Bush… I love the French style, Paris and Lolita… My favourite major designers are Chloe and Chanel…

Do you have a favourite vintage era?

The 40’s is probably my favourite style era with floral tea dresses, lace and pearls, very feminine and elegant, although I get inspiration from the best bits of different era’s.

What are your ethical motivations? What gets you really fired up?

I either make brand new clothes from vintage materials or rework unloved vintage clothes so it is very important that all my pieces are 100% ethical. I hate disposable fashion – with a little time and love you can always find a vintage piece that is the same as what you would find on the high street, except better quality, greener and way more interesting!

Do you have any secret career cravings?!

I do what I do because I love it so this is my career craving!

I think myself lucky to be passionate enough about something that can also be my living so it seemed natural for me to follow it. I think if people have a strong enough dream that can become reality they should be less fearful of following it, whether it is starting a business, travelling, providing for your family or exploring your talent.

Visit Kee Boutique Here

Kee Boutique illustration by Faye West

Lately, visit web I’ve been thinking a lot about what I want to do with myself. You know, life stuff. I am incredibly grateful for my job, especially as I have friends in dire unemployment situations but it doesn’t stop me from dreaming about the ‘what if’s’ and ‘one day’s’ . I don’t have a single dream job. I never have. I do however, In my slightly schizophrenic special way, harbour numerous secret career cravings. These range from the sublime (Anthropologist, midwife, Inventor) to the ridiculous (Pearly Queen, agony aunt, Riverdance star– seriously.) But most of all I hope that one day, once upon a time perhaps, I shall have the means and the balls to retreat from my office based 9-5 to own my own little handmade business. Something to do with sewing machines and being outside a lot and haberdasheries and old things and perhaps chickens and copper kettles and err, well I’m not sure what it is exactly yet or how on earth it would come together. But I always like meeting people who have taken the plunge to do something they love, so I was pretty intrigued to interview Keely for Amelia’s Magazine.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

Who are you and what floats your boat?!

I am Keely Brightmore and my clothes are Kee Boutique. I love everything pretty and vintage. I like nothing better than rooting through flea markets and car boots for hidden gems, pieces of lace, broaches, fabrics, whatever I can find, then creating something beautiful from something on its last legs!

Where are you from – do you love it or hate it? and does it influence your work?

I am from Yorkshire, in the countryside, and now live in Leeds. The nature and beauty of home is very inspirational to my work, but I also love the buzz of the city.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

When did you start the shop and what made you want to start it?

I started it in July last year, just after I graduated from university. I have always been creative, designing and using my mum’s sewing machine as a child. I started selling my clothes online, in markets and in other people’s shops but always dreamt of having my own shop.

What are your ethical motivations? What gets you really fired up?

I either make brand new clothes from vintage materials or rework unloved vintage clothes so it is very important that all my pieces are 100% ethical. I hate disposable fashion – with a little time and love you can always find a vintage piece that is the same as what you would find on the high street, except better quality, greener and way more interesting! [preach it Keely!]

Where do you see your shop in 5 years time?

My shop is in a beautiful art deco building with several other independent shops and I firstly aim to help make the whole thing a great place to visit in Leeds. I also use my shop as a studio where customers can find me behind my sewing machine making my new garments to sell both in the shop, online and elsewhere. I would like to expand where my clothes are available but still using an ethical method of production.

Some might say It was very brave to launch a new fashion business in a recession;  how have you found it?

There were times at first when I was slightly doubtful in the current climate but if people like something they still seem to be able to afford it! This is a full time thing but the shop is only be part of it. I also sell my clothes in other shops and online – there’s a whole world of like-minded buyers!

Kee Boutique by Madi Illustrates

Do you have any advice or top tips for any other aspiring/fledgling entrepreneurs?

If you love what you are trying to do then you just have to keep with it, visualise where you want to be, and, if it’s what you really want to do, then you will get there. I look for inspiration everywhere without thinking about it and, if it’s in you, you won’t doubt yourself or think of it as a job. Enjoy it!

What have been the best and worst moments in running your business so far?

The hardest part was at the beginning trying to get established, budgeting, not having enough time for everything, let alone time off! It’s all worth it though and my favourite parts of doing this are meeting new creative people who I can learn from, doing fashion shows and photoshoots and seeing the results of everyone’s hard work. I also love seeing people wearing my designs!

Who are your style inspirations?

I adore icons from the 20’s to now, in particular Bridget Bardot, Jane Birkin, Rita Heyworth, Kate Bush… I love the French style, Paris and Lolita… My favourite major designers are Chloe and Chanel…

Do you have a favourite vintage era?

The 40’s is probably my favourite style era with floral tea dresses, lace and pearls, very feminine and elegant, although I get inspiration from the best bits of different era’s.

Do you have any secret career cravings?!

I do what I do because I love it so this is my career craving!

I think myself lucky to be passionate enough about something that can also be my living so it seemed natural for me to follow it. I think if people have a strong enough dream that can become reality they should be less fearful of following it, whether it is starting a business, travelling, providing for your family or exploring your talent.

Visit Kee Boutique Here

Kee Boutique illustration by Faye West

Lately, information pills I’ve been thinking a lot about what I want to do with myself. You know, life stuff. I am incredibly grateful for my job, especially as I have friends in dire unemployment situations but it doesn’t stop me from dreaming about the ‘what if’s’ and ‘one day’s’ . I don’t have a single dream job. I never have. I do however, in my slightly schizophrenic special way, harbour numerous secret career cravings. These range from the sublime (Anthropologist, midwife, Inventor) to the ridiculous (Pearly Queen, agony aunt, Riverdance star– seriously.) But most of all I hope that one day, once upon a time perhaps, I shall have the means and the balls to retreat from my office based 9-5 to own my own little handmade business. Something to do with sewing machines and being outside a lot and haberdasheries and old things and perhaps chickens and copper kettles and err, well I’m not sure what it is exactly yet or how on earth it would come together. But I always like meeting people who have taken the plunge to do something they love, so I can briefly live vicariously through them.  So I was pretty intrigued to interview Keely, the owner of a vintage and handmade boutique for Amelia’s Magazine.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

Who are you and what floats your boat?!

I am Keely Brightmore and my clothes are Kee Boutique. I love everything pretty and vintage. I like nothing better than rooting through flea markets and car boots for hidden gems, pieces of lace, broaches, fabrics, whatever I can find, then creating something beautiful from something on its last legs!

Where are you from – do you love it or hate it? Does it influence your work?

I am from Yorkshire, in the countryside, and now live in Leeds. The nature and beauty of home is very inspirational to my work, but I also love the buzz of the city.

Kee Boutique by Michelle Urvall Nyren

When did you start the shop and what made you want to start it?

I started it in July last year, just after I graduated from university. I have always been creative, designing and using my mum’s sewing machine as a child. I started selling my clothes online, in markets and in other people’s shops but always dreamt of having my own shop.

What are your ethical motivations? What gets you really fired up?

I either make brand new clothes from vintage materials or rework unloved vintage clothes so it is very important that all my pieces are 100% ethical. I hate disposable fashion – with a little time and love you can always find a vintage piece that is the same as what you would find on the high street, except better quality, greener and way more interesting! [preach it Keely!]

Where do you see your shop in 5 years time?

My shop is in a beautiful art deco building with several other independent shops and I firstly aim to help make the whole thing a great place to visit in Leeds. I also use my shop as a studio where customers can find me behind my sewing machine making my new garments to sell both in the shop, online and elsewhere. I would like to expand where my clothes are available but still using an ethical method of production.

Some might say It was very brave to launch a new fashion business in a recession;  how have you found it?

There were times at first when I was slightly doubtful in the current climate but if people like something they still seem to be able to afford it! This is a full time thing but the shop is only be part of it. I also sell my clothes in other shops and online – there’s a whole world of like-minded buyers!

Kee Boutique by Madi Illustrates

Do you have any advice or top tips for any other aspiring/fledgling entrepreneurs?

If you love what you are trying to do then you just have to keep with it, visualise where you want to be, and, if it’s what you really want to do, then you will get there. I look for inspiration everywhere without thinking about it and, if it’s in you, you won’t doubt yourself or think of it as a job. Enjoy it!

What have been the best and worst moments in running your business so far?

The hardest part was at the beginning; trying to get established, budgeting, not having enough time for everything, let alone time off! It’s all worth it though and my favourite parts of doing this are meeting new creative people who I can learn from, doing fashion shows and photoshoots and seeing the results of everyone’s hard work. I also love seeing people wearing my designs!

Who are your style inspirations?

I adore icons from the 20’s to now, in particular Bridget Bardot, Jane Birkin, Rita Heyworth, Kate Bush… I love the French style, Paris and Lolita… My favourite major designers are Chloe and Chanel…

Do you have a favourite vintage era? Why?

The 40’s is probably my favourite style era with floral tea dresses, lace and pearls, very feminine and elegant, although I get inspiration from the best bits of different era’s.

Do you have any secret career cravings?!

I do what I do because I love it so this is my career craving!

I think myself lucky to be passionate enough about something that can also be my living so it seemed natural for me to follow it. I think if people have a strong enough dream that can become reality they should be less fearful of following it, whether it is starting a business, travelling, providing for your family or exploring your talent.

Thanks Keely!

Visit Kee Boutique Here

Illustration by Matilde Sazio

It came as a bit of a shock on Tuesday when I heard the news that Love Sensation superstar Loleatta Holloway had died. I remember my mum playing her records when I was a kid, pharmacy and I am still to this day astounded by her powerhouse vocals that sit on the right side of terrifying. Black Box’s Ride on Time, prescription which naughtily duplicated her mesmerising vocals, cemented her as part of music history forever.


Illustration by Faye West

So when I heard that Dame Elizabeth Rosemond Taylor had passed away the following day, it almost pushed me over the edge. Two women, icons for their respective achievements, had gone.


Illustration by Maria del Carmen Smith

Elizabeth Taylor was one of the few remaining genuine stars. In a world where everybody is a celebrity, she came from that golden era where few stood out – only the most beautiful, talented and sophisticated women made it in Hollywood. In 1999, the American Film Institute published its Legends list – an archive of the greatest movie stars to have ever lived. Taylor came in seventh – the top six are all gone (the Hepburns, Monroe, Garbo) and now, as of Wednesday, only three of the 25 women listed remain – Shirley Temple, Lauren Bacall and Sophia Lauren.


Illustrations by Daria Hlazatova

She was nominated in four consecutive years for the Best Actress Oscar, winning the latter for her performance in Butterfield 8 in 1960, and again in 1966 for Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?. Fewer than 15 actresses have ever been awarded the honour twice in the award ceremony’s 80 year history.


Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou, aka Slowly the Eggs


Illustration by Daria Hlazatova

Born in England to an art dealer and an actress, Taylor was whisked away to Los Angeles by her parents and it would be here where Hollywood people “saw a movie future for every pretty face” and her mother would be urged to have Elizabeth screen tested. At the age of 9 she appeared in There’s One Born Every Minute and the rest, as they say, is history.


Illustration by Anna Roberts

Film after film followed – I could write a list but I’m sure you know, and if you didn’t you’ve probably read about them in every other tribute. I have to confess, I haven’t seen that many – I can never endure the whole of the week-long Cleopatra (somebody needs to edit it) but Taylor’s classic beauty and power as an actress resonates through even the film stills.


Illustration by Genie Espinosa

Taylor was also one of the reasons we’re so obsessed with celebrities’ private lives. She fascinated the general public with her addiction to marriages. This is a woman who married the same man twice, for God’s sake! She counted him – Richard Burton – as one of the two loves of her life, along with Michael Todd, her only marriage not to result in divorce (he tragically died in a plane crash).


Illustration by Rebecca Strickson

So how to remember Taylor? From silver screen legend, cavorting with cameras in black and white stills; to the 1980s in jewel-encrusted power dresses; to the Noughties when, even when she couldn’t walk she was covered in diamonds, Elizabeth Taylor was one of the most glamorous women to have ever lived. She embraced fashion and used it to her advantage – her dark complexion and olive skin always making her stand out in a sea of Hollywood blondes.


Illustrations by Jaymie O’Callaghan

Her marital record will of course go down in history, as should her genuine compassion for others. When her good friend Rock Hudson died from an AIDS related illness, she was one of the first major personalities to acknowledge the disease and spent the rest of her life raising awareness and founded the American Foundation for AIDS Research. So many people’s lives are better because of her efforts.


Illustration by Eleazer Renée


Illustration by Avril Kelly

In a typical fashion, I’ll finish with a quote – yes I know it’s the cheesiest possible ending, but this one is so good I couldn’t resist. No, not the one about not having tomorrow, or “big girls need big diamonds”. It’s this:

“If someone’s dumb enough to offer me a million dollars to make a picture, I’m certainly not dumb enough to turn it down.”


Illustration by Janneke de Jong

Categories ,1980s, ,AIDS, ,America, ,American Film Institute, ,American Foundation for AIDS Research, ,Anna Roberts, ,Audrey Hepburn, ,Best Actress, ,Black Box, ,Butterfield 8, ,Cleopatra, ,Dame Elizabeth Taylor, ,Daria Hlazatova, ,Diamonds, ,Eleazer Renée, ,England, ,Faye West, ,Genie Espinosa, ,Hollywood, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Jaymie O’Callaghan, ,Katherine Hepburn, ,Lauren Bacall, ,Liz Taylor, ,Loleatta Holloway, ,london, ,Los Angeles, ,Maria del Carmen Smith, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Marilyn Monroe, ,marriage, ,Matilde Sazio, ,Michael Todd, ,Naomi Law, ,Oscars, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Richard Burton, ,Rock Hudson, ,Shirley Temple, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,There’s One Born Every Minute, ,Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with The Raincoats as 1981 album Odyshape is rereleased on We ThRee

The Raincoats by James Shedden
The Raincoats by James Shedden.

The Raincoats are an all girl band who formed during the late 1970s and split up in the mid 1980s. I was very little at the time of their original releases so unfortunately I did not discover The Raincoats until much more recently, online well into my adult years. The band had an exciting can do attitude that melded punk, see classical and reggae influences into spiky arrhythmic folk punk tunes that even today sound way more exciting than many current bands. They reformed in the mid 90s after a resurgence in interest thanks to gushing plaudits from Kurt Cobain and are now widely hailed as one of the seminal post punk bands. I catch up with founders Ana da Silva and Gina Birch as they gear up to rerelease their second album on its 30th anniversary.

Raincoats in Poland

Why did you decide to reissue Odyshape now?
ANA:  This year is the 30th anniversary of this album. So, as we like anniversaries, we decided to release The Raincoats and Odyshape on their 30th… We remastered the albums for Japan and re-did the art work so it would sound and look the best possible. We now own the rights to them and, as they should be available, we thought we’d release them on our own label We ThRee. Both on CD and vinyl. They look and sound the best ever! Theyl also have a booklet and A4 sheet respectively with liner notes, lyrics, photos and a piece of writing from me on the 1st album and from Gina on Odyshape.

The raincoats odyshape
What does Odyshape mean?
GINA: The title was a pun on the odyssey of a body. The idea that a body could have an ideal shape and it if did, what happens when a body doesn’t live up to that ideal. It was at a time, when (as probably now) there seemed to be a body fascism. It was important for women to be this shape or that shape. Thanks to people like Beth Ditto, and hopefully The Raincoats, things have been broken down a little. Hair can be crazy, messy, outfits can be baggy or tight, inside out or upside down, we can be fat or thin, creative, playful, stylish and beautiful without having to subscribe to some fashion mag ideal.

The Raincoats1981
You formed the original band whilst still at art college… how did your studies in art influence how you made music?
ANA: Besides the obvious side of art work, I think we’re trying to do what art should do: create works that inspire other people, that question the status quo, that express ideas which come from our own minds and hearts and also works that look at the human condition and provide some comfort to the listener.

The Raincoats by Karin Soderquist
The Raincoats by Karin Soderquist.

Odyshape seems to owe as much to contemporary classical music as it does punk – was this something that inspired you?    
ANA: We listen to all sorts of music so, intentionally or unintentionally, different  things appear. I do like some classical music very much, like the Bach‘s cello suites, Erik Satie, some opera, etc.  but I don’t think my playing sounds very classical…maybe you mean the violin which was played by Vicky Aspinall who is classically trained.

The Raincoats by Janette Beckman1981
The Raincoats in 1981.

You haven’t produced a new album since the mid 90s – what have you been up to since then?
ANA: I’ve been doing my own solo music and released an album called The Lighthouse on Chicks On Speed records. I’ve also been doing some drawings and paintings some of which I’ll be showing at the Pop Montreal festival, together with Gina’s videos and Shirley’s photographs. It’s really a great opportunity to show our art, visual and musical. It’s the first time we do this and are very happy and excited about it.
GINA: I have been collaborating with various musicians and artists and very involved in a project called The Gluts, (with two women artists) Also I have been playing solo, writing songs, making films, painting and, raising two children.

The Raincoats by Rukmunal Hakim
The Raincoats by Rukmunal Hakim.

Gina – you were an early fan of the craft revival – knitting on tour. Do you still craft and if so what?
GINA: I did knit on the first Raincoats tour, when I wore the jumper at the final gig… and then didn’t do any knittingfor quite a few years but have always liked to paint, draw, knit, mosaic, make films whatever. I have been knitting a lot in the last year or two and have made Raincoats inspired bags, and I have also been sewing banners with lyrics and messages on them.  

The Raincoats by Kassie Berry
The Raincoats by Kassie Berry.

Has Gina Birch’s film, The Raincoats, Fairytales, been completed? 
GINA: The film is still a work in progress. It is an organic process it seems and hopefully will be concluded in the coming six months.

YouTube Preview ImageBaby Song performed live in the 80s

You will be playing your debut album live again at ATP this December – anything special in store and what are you looking forward to most about the Holiday Camp experience?
ANA: Just playing is a special thing, but we’ve played twice at ATP and really enjoyed it: swimming, meeting people, being able to choose amongst so much different music and the relaxed atmosphere. We will be playing the first album at Jeff Mangum‘s request but will play other songs too, not sure which yet.

YouTube Preview ImageThe Raincoats perform live at ATP in 2010

Which other current bands do you enjoy listening to or watching?
ANA: I think P.J. Harvey‘s latest album is so good, so I enjoyed listening to it at seeing them live a couple of times. Also saw Portishead whose music I like but had never seen live and that was very good too. I was listening yesterday to Ponytail, Colleen, Electrelane, Neutral Milk HotelLouis and Bebe BarronJenny O in the car coming back from Portugal.

The-Raincoats-By-Barb-Royal
The Raincoats by Barb Royal.

What next for The Raincoats?
ANA: We’re doing a tour in the U.S.A. and Canada (New York, Washington, Chicago, Detroit, Toronto and Montreal) in September and ATP in December. And because of the re-release of Odyshape and those dates some interviews too… thanks for your part. Otherwise nothing concrete, but I’m sure other things will happen.

YouTube Preview ImageOnly Loved at Night, performed live in 2009

Odyshape is rereleased in heavyweight vinyl and as a special edition CD on We ThRee records on September 12th 2011. The band will tour the east coast of the USA from 16 – 26 September 2011 and play Jeff Mangum’s ATP, Minehead on 3 December 2011.

Categories ,1980s, ,2011, ,album, ,Ana da Silva, ,Arrhythmic, ,atp, ,Baby Song, ,Bach, ,Barb Royal, ,Bebe Barron, ,Beth Ditto, ,Body Fascism, ,Chicks on Speed, ,classical, ,Colleen, ,December, ,Electrelane, ,Erik Satie, ,folk, ,Gina Birch, ,James Shedden, ,Jeff Mangum, ,Jenny O, ,Karin Söderquist, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kurt Cobain, ,Louis, ,Neutral Milk Hotel, ,Odyshape, ,Only Loved at Night, ,PJ Harvey, ,Ponytail, ,Pop Montreal, ,Portishead, ,punk, ,Rerelease, ,review, ,Rukmunal Hakim, ,The LIghthouse, ,The Raincoats, ,tour, ,Vicky Aspinall, ,Violin, ,We ThRee, ,WETHREE

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