Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Olga Szynkarczuk

Olga Szynkarczuk S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Olga Szynkarczuk S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

I loved Olga Szynkarczuk‘s show on Sunday. BIOmimicry featured plenty of neon fabrics mixed with clever textured knitwear, sheers and laser cut showpieces, all worn with oversized perspex visors and accessorised with on trend clutches. Shapes were rounded at hemlines and around shoulders, with cut-out details a big feature of summery ice-cream coloured separates. Metallic highlights culminated with the most amazing final creation – a flexible laser cut top with a huge hooped train.

Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I was delighted to discover that Olga Szynkarczuk works according to fair-trade principals, using organic materials where possible and working with craftspeople to modernise traditional techniques. Her exhibition was inspired by an exhibition called My Way by artist Jean Michel Othoniel (who designed the new Swatch watches) and the spectacle of Planet Lem at the Biuro Podrozy Theatre. ‘It is an analysis of society and its weaknesses contrasted with the superhuman world of outer space and robots.’ She is currently based in London, and I was told that she has just secured a full time job designing for a well known high street brand. I hope she still finds the time to create her own collections, because her talent is too good to be lost.

Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Olga Szynkarczuk Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Biuro Podrozy Theatre, ,craft, ,fairtrade, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Futurism, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Jean-Michel Othoniel, ,knitwear, ,Lodz, ,My Way, ,Neon, ,Olga Szynkarczuk, ,Planet Lem, ,S/S 2012, ,Sheer, ,Swatch, ,traditional

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Paulina Plizga

Paulina Plizga S/S 2012 by Cruz
Paulina Plizga S/S 2012 by Cruz.

For her S/S 2012 collection Paulina Plizga was inspired by dance, so leading the Flesh & Bone collection down the catwalk was contemporary dancer Kaya Kolodziejczyk, who threw a series of crazy shapes in front of the unsuspecting crowd. The next models walked at a stately pace, some fast, some two by two or in hand – the back lighting emphasised their tousled hair and their blackened eye sockets gave the classical ballet aesthetic a dark, distressed edge. Paulina Plizga showed us a predominantly white collection with intermissions of grey, ochre and black in a range of textures, from holey knits and ancient lace to patchworked fabrics and reappropriated sheers.

Paulina Plizga SS 2012 by Geiko Louve
Paulina Plizga S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve.

When I spoke with Paulina Plizga after the show she described how all of her outfits are constructed from scraps which she forages from the couture houses in Paris (where she lives) and these are mixed with antique laces that she finds in markets. For relaxation she likes nothing better than to go to the cinema, and so recent viewings of Black Swan, The Red Shoes and Pina Bausch films helped form ideas for S/S 2012, along with the Greek story of Pygmalion, wherein a statue comes to life. This was a welcome second chance for me to view Paulina Plizga’s clever design aesthetics; read my review of Paulina Plizga‘s previous A/W 2011 collection here.

Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,ballet, ,Black Swan, ,couture, ,Cruz, ,dance, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Flesh & Bone, ,Geiko Louve, ,Kaya Kolodziejczyk, ,knitwear, ,Lodz, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,paris, ,Patchwork, ,Paulina Plizga, ,Pina Bausch, ,Pygmalion, ,recycled, ,Red Shoes, ,Sheer, ,The Red Shoes, ,Upcycled

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Sylwia Rochala

Sylwia Rochala S/S 2012 by Rebecca Higgins
Sylwia Rochala S/S 2012 by Rebecca Higgins.

It was an early Sunday morning start for Sylwia Rochala, who showed a small collection that encompassed the trend for double length skirts, created with gauzy layers of fabric. Sharp tailoring was combined with floaty chiffon and sheer panels with cutaway details were used with a bold monochrome splash fabric. The X-Ray collection was inspired by ‘the idea of the human body being a duality of thin, transparent skin and the heavy organism that lies beneath it.‘ Ponytailed models sported heavy silver lips and red heels were a nice touch. Red shoes are always good!

Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Sylwia Rochala S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Lodz, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Rebecca Higgins, ,Red Shoes, ,S/S 2012, ,Sheer, ,X-ray

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: An Introduction

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-international press photography Amelia Gregory
Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012. International press on the front row, all photography by Amelia Gregory.

Last week I returned to Łódź in Poland for my second dose of Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland. This time around I knew more about what to expect and already had some designers in mind to watch. I was also determined to see as many off schedule shows as possible, because as is often the case this is where the most exciting new talent resides.

Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel exterior
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel exterior
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel hall
Once again I stayed at the Andels Hotel, a fabulous establishment created from one of the many old factories that typify the landscape of Łódź. Andels has neon rimmed curved cut outs between floors and high ceilinged bedrooms that belie it’s industrial origins, and the breakfast is yummy. What more could you want?

Łódź Fashion Week AW 2011-Andels room
Lodz Fashion Week AW 2011-Andels bedroom
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel interior
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel interior-Andels swimming pool
Unfortunately I had no time to sample their spectacular overhanging rooftop swimming pool because I had a hectic four days of shows, with up to 12 shows to see each day. To make things even more exciting I offered to take over the official Fashion Week Poland twitter feed @fashionweek_pl for the duration of my visit. Twitter really hasn’t taken off in Poland yet, but I was determined to show them how important it is to reach an international fashion audience. So for four days, not only was I taking photos and editing between shows, I was also twittering as much as I could given a sometimes shaky internet connection (better wi-fi than London Fashion Week though I might add). Interestingly Facebook is huge news for business, with many designers using it as their sole means of communication on the web.

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012 Amelia Gregory and Marlena Woolford
Pregnant ladies on the front row: myself with Fashion Trends Analyst Marlena Woolford.

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Joanna Malgorzata Kralkowska
Eating Polish pancakes at Manekin with my lovely guide Joanna Dyrdowska and Fashion Week Poland organiser Małgorzata Kralkowska.

Having been to Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland twice I now have a much stronger idea of what I would determine to be uniquely Polish in fashion – they excel at a curious mix of grungey draping, downbeat mumsy colours and 80s brashness. Polish style at it’s best revels in odd colour combinations and contrasting fabrics and it’s refreshing to see a strong strain of environmental awareness manifested in both materials and design inspiration (I sadly missed the Re-Act eco fashion show on Wednesday night). Grey jersey draping is such a common theme across collections that when used unimaginatively it quickly becomes very tiring, but when done well it adds to that essential Polish feel, as typified by the likes of Monika Ptaszek. Her S/S 2012 menswear collection was one of my favourites, and showcased the very best of what is essential Polish style.

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Monika Ptaszek S/S 2012.

Aside from a very Polish strain to many collections there were noticeably more international trends running through the shows this season, as compared with last. Sheer fabrics reigned supreme, (exposed bums and boobs, hello) as did ikat and digital prints, plus the mini maxi combo that leaves models struggling to align fabric in the best position for cameras as they stride down the catwalk.

Joanna Klimas Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Sheer at Joanna Klimas S/S 2012.

Poitr Drzal Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Bottoms on show at Poitr Drzal S/S 2012.

Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Ikat meets maximini at Blessus S/S 2012.

In my upcoming blogs I’ll give a flavour of how this emerging fashion centre is evolving and I will of course concentrate on the most exciting Polish designers to watch out for. There are plenty of Polish designers who have studied and are now working to considerable acclaim in London, and there’s no reason why home trained talent should not make a bigger mark on the international scene in the years to come too.

Categories ,@fashionweek_pl, ,Andel’s Hotel, ,Blessus, ,Facebook, ,fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Ikat, ,Inspiration Trends Analysis, ,Joanna Dyrdowska, ,Joanna Klimas, ,Lodz, ,London Fashion Week, ,Manekin, ,Marlena Woolford, ,Maximini, ,Małgorzata Kralkowska, ,menswear, ,MiniMaxi, ,Monika Ptaszek, ,Pancakes, ,Poitr Drzal, ,poland, ,S/S 2012, ,Sheer, ,twitter

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