Amelia’s Magazine | Leutton Postle: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Leutton Postle S/S 2013 by Sine Skau
Leutton Postle S/S 2013 by Sine Skau.

On the last day of London Fashion Week I just managed to catch the Leutton Postle presentation at Fashion Scout. Well, I say I, I had Snarfle attached to my front in a wrap like a carbuncular baby growth: most fun when trying to elbow my way into what passed for the photographer’s pit, for this season Leutton Postle eschewed the catwalk in favour of a presentation in the upper rooms. They had also decided to forgo their usual chunky knits, and instead focus on lightweight knitwear suitable for summer and presumably much easier to commercially produce. Still present and correct were the fabulous colour combinations that this brand has become known for – cobalt blue, mustard and dusky fleshy peach tones teamed with eye popping turquoise, red and orange trims.

Leutton Postle SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tassels reigned supreme – both chunky knots and delicate strands – fringing waist lines, slices of hem and cropped jackets. Zig zag triangles called to mind traditional ikat designs, re-imagined for a digitalised modern world. What looked like a light cable knit was used horizontally and vertically to create a bold pattern reminiscent of wire fencing. Knit was worn with loose shirts sporting appliqué details and high feature collars in contrasting materials, or teamed with floating wide legged chiffon trousers. This was all accessorised with bright red lips, slicked back mini quiffs… and some fascinating sunglasses and heels, heavily decorated with brightly coloured beads like those that can be glued into pictures for children’s artwork.

Leutton Postle SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Leutton Postle S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

S/S 2013 showcased an interesting move forward for Leutton Postle – with a range of garments that managed to retaining all the fun elements and intriguing layered textures of their previous collections, whilst also showing how their unique aesthetic might work on the shop shelf.

Categories ,Bold, ,Fashion Scout, ,Ikat, ,knitwear, ,Leutton Postle, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,S/S 2013, ,Sine Skau, ,Snarfle

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: An Introduction

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-international press photography Amelia Gregory
Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012. International press on the front row, all photography by Amelia Gregory.

Last week I returned to Łódź in Poland for my second dose of Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland. This time around I knew more about what to expect and already had some designers in mind to watch. I was also determined to see as many off schedule shows as possible, because as is often the case this is where the most exciting new talent resides.

Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel exterior
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel exterior
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel hall
Once again I stayed at the Andels Hotel, a fabulous establishment created from one of the many old factories that typify the landscape of Łódź. Andels has neon rimmed curved cut outs between floors and high ceilinged bedrooms that belie it’s industrial origins, and the breakfast is yummy. What more could you want?

Łódź Fashion Week AW 2011-Andels room
Lodz Fashion Week AW 2011-Andels bedroom
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel interior
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel interior-Andels swimming pool
Unfortunately I had no time to sample their spectacular overhanging rooftop swimming pool because I had a hectic four days of shows, with up to 12 shows to see each day. To make things even more exciting I offered to take over the official Fashion Week Poland twitter feed @fashionweek_pl for the duration of my visit. Twitter really hasn’t taken off in Poland yet, but I was determined to show them how important it is to reach an international fashion audience. So for four days, not only was I taking photos and editing between shows, I was also twittering as much as I could given a sometimes shaky internet connection (better wi-fi than London Fashion Week though I might add). Interestingly Facebook is huge news for business, with many designers using it as their sole means of communication on the web.

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012 Amelia Gregory and Marlena Woolford
Pregnant ladies on the front row: myself with Fashion Trends Analyst Marlena Woolford.

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Joanna Malgorzata Kralkowska
Eating Polish pancakes at Manekin with my lovely guide Joanna Dyrdowska and Fashion Week Poland organiser Małgorzata Kralkowska.

Having been to Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland twice I now have a much stronger idea of what I would determine to be uniquely Polish in fashion – they excel at a curious mix of grungey draping, downbeat mumsy colours and 80s brashness. Polish style at it’s best revels in odd colour combinations and contrasting fabrics and it’s refreshing to see a strong strain of environmental awareness manifested in both materials and design inspiration (I sadly missed the Re-Act eco fashion show on Wednesday night). Grey jersey draping is such a common theme across collections that when used unimaginatively it quickly becomes very tiring, but when done well it adds to that essential Polish feel, as typified by the likes of Monika Ptaszek. Her S/S 2012 menswear collection was one of my favourites, and showcased the very best of what is essential Polish style.

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Monika Ptaszek S/S 2012.

Aside from a very Polish strain to many collections there were noticeably more international trends running through the shows this season, as compared with last. Sheer fabrics reigned supreme, (exposed bums and boobs, hello) as did ikat and digital prints, plus the mini maxi combo that leaves models struggling to align fabric in the best position for cameras as they stride down the catwalk.

Joanna Klimas Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Sheer at Joanna Klimas S/S 2012.

Poitr Drzal Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Bottoms on show at Poitr Drzal S/S 2012.

Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Ikat meets maximini at Blessus S/S 2012.

In my upcoming blogs I’ll give a flavour of how this emerging fashion centre is evolving and I will of course concentrate on the most exciting Polish designers to watch out for. There are plenty of Polish designers who have studied and are now working to considerable acclaim in London, and there’s no reason why home trained talent should not make a bigger mark on the international scene in the years to come too.

Categories ,@fashionweek_pl, ,Andel’s Hotel, ,Blessus, ,Facebook, ,fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Ikat, ,Inspiration Trends Analysis, ,Joanna Dyrdowska, ,Joanna Klimas, ,Lodz, ,London Fashion Week, ,Manekin, ,Marlena Woolford, ,Maximini, ,Małgorzata Kralkowska, ,menswear, ,MiniMaxi, ,Monika Ptaszek, ,Pancakes, ,Poitr Drzal, ,poland, ,S/S 2012, ,Sheer, ,twitter

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Blessus

Blessus S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Blessus S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Blessus showed Navaho against a bright orange screen, a suitable background to an earthy collection of burnt shades inspired by the Navajo indians of Arizona. It featured tailored jackets and yards of chiffon with a combination of pencil skirts, tight trousers and skater skirts. Ikat and wallpaper inspired prints were highlights. Blessus is Marta Matuszewska and Michael Hekmat.

Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Blessus, ,Chiffon, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Ikat, ,Lodz, ,Marta Matuszewska, ,Michael Hekmat, ,Navaho, ,Navajo, ,Skater skirts

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