Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Collections: Men A/W 2014 Catwalk Review


KTZ A/W 2014 by Sine Skau

Only if resident LC:M hunk David Gandy has been wheeled in will you find a tedious tailored three-piece suit at a KTZ show – and that’s exactly why I bloody love going.


KTZ A/W 2014 by Mitika Suri


All photography by Matt Bramford

The usual onslaught of chaos occurred outside, but I knew that once inside, it would be relatively empty. In the basement of Victoria House, I was right – rows of empty seats were frantically being filled as I picked a good standing vantage point from which to view this season’s bizarre brilliance.

A KTZ menswear show tends to feel comfortingly familiar, yet entirely different. The ambiguous, evocative symbols that mix Sanskrit with religious symbols with godknowswhat adorned most garments, black and white dominated this collection and the silhouettes were as dramatic as ever. So what do you do to mix things up a bit? Paint the bloody models ice white, of course. This is definitely not a show to appeal to the Harris Tweed brigade.

Pieces seemed to be bigger than ever this season. XXL hoods draped over models past the knee; furs, scarves and thick fabrics enveloped models’ faces and necks; a sort of Arctic exploration on LSD. I was dazzled by caps with metal embellishments, metal headpieces that crept down foreheads, jewels attached to sweatshirts that had been arranged in a precise, mathematical fashion, and skintight jumpsuits that were so low cut that they revealed navels.


KTZ A/W 2014 by Sine Skau

The tribal, cultish vibe remained at this collection’s core, its mix of graphic emblems and experiments with fabric keeping every audience member’s attention all the way through over forty looks. I won’t even attempt to define it, categorise it, or discuss it in terms of how wearable, sellable or functional it is. That would be a mistake. It’s better to sit (or stand) back, revel in the showmanship of it all, then stock up on Snazaroo face paint when you get home.

Categories ,Artic, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,KTZ, ,LCM, ,LCMAW2014, ,london, ,London Collections Men, ,Marjan Pejoski, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,review, ,Sanskrit, ,Sine Skau, ,sportswear, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Richard Sorger

Richard Sorger A-W 2010 Abigail Daker
Richard Sorger by Abigail Daker.

Before his A/W 2010 fashion show I knew nothing about Richard Sorger, but I quite liked the graphic design of his invitation featuring a glossy printed bee – and sometimes this is enough to get me to a show.

Bee on the invite for the Richard Sorger show
Bee on the invite for the Richard Sorger show.

Richard Sorger A/W 2010. Photography by Amelia Gregory

The main area at Victoria House had been curtained off and the space in front had been turned into a small curved catwalk that the models walked around before stopping in a line up against the far wall. Due to a dearth of photographers I was able to take my place in what constituted the pit, as the girls tracked towards us. The lighting was a confusing patchwork so there was a lot of grumbling from the photographers around me, but I managed to take some moody shots with no flash.

Richard Sorger A/W 2010. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Richard Sorger A/W 2010. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Richard Sorger A/W 2010. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Richard Sorger A/W 2010. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Richard Sorger A/W 2010. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Richard Sorger A/W 2010. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Richard Sorger A/W 2010. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Richard Sorger A/W 2010. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

The small collection had none of the graphic simplicity seen in the invite, with the very basic dress shapes somehow grating against the excessive embellishment creeping across them – 3D embroidered bees and flowers alluding to the Swarm of the title, netting spilling willy-nilly off the front of one dress. The colour palette didn’t help – sludgy greys, beiges and menstruation red not being my favoured tones – and making the clothes somehow came across as leaden rather than glamourous.

Richard Sorger A W 2010 Abigail Daker
Richard Sorger A W 2010 Abigail Daker
Richard Sorger by Abigail Daker.

All in all I left finding it a bit hard to believe that Richard Sorger dresses some of the celebs listed on his website – including Courtney Love, Cindy Crawford (my wasn’t she beautiful back in the day?!) and Heidi Klum, but then maybe this collection was a big departure from his usual style because a further search of the blogosphere reveals that he has produced some much more interesting clothes; some of them available for a knock-down price over at ASOS.

I love his oversized flamingo and skeleton arm jersey tees – maybe a lighter, bright colour and feel should infuse Richard Sorger’s next catwalk collection. So much fresher than sludge!



Categories ,Abi Daker, ,ASOS, ,Bees, ,Cindy Crawford, ,Courtney Love, ,Embellishment, ,embroidery, ,Flamingos, ,Heidi Klum, ,London Fashion Week, ,Richard Sorger, ,Skeletons, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion – Fashion Illustration Graduate Show 2011

Viet Tran dog LCF Showtime
Fashion illustration by Viet Tran.

Touring the fashion illustration talent exhibition at the London College of Fashion Showtime degree show necessitated a bit of a cat and mouse chase in order to take photos without detection by the overzealous security guards who were convinced I was up to no good. I have no idea why… I just want to introduce the world to some great new fashion illustration talents.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Rachel Wilkinson
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Rachel Wilkinson
Rachel Wilkinson‘s decorative symmetrical illustrations were beautifully imagined… I just wish I could find her online!

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Deborah Jameson
Deborah Jameson had painted a large sheet with a characterful beauty portrait.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Emma Layland
Emma Layland had used some interesting print effects to create simple images with great hair/hat detailing.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Alison Naomi Tullett
For Alison Naomi Tullett it was all about the flamingos… painted on to a big banner. A quick glance at her website reveals that she is as enamoured of animals as she is of humans.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Philip Dunn
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Philip Dunn
Philip Dunn used minimal brush strokes to idiosyncratic effect, advice creating individual and engaging fashion portraits. I do believe that second one is Maggie!

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Jingwen Sun
Jingwen Sun used simple swathes of watercolour to create a bold beauty portrait.

Cheryl Windahl LCF graduate showtime
Cheryl Windahl is a girl after my own heart – I loved her two decorative artworks, displayed opposite each other – each tiny detail covered in swathes of colour and pattern.

Kelly Anne Sheppard LCF Showtime
Kelly Anne Sheppard produced a diptych of fineline menswear. I thought I recognised her – she was one of the illustrators in residence for Fashion Scout last season alongside Amelia’s Magazine contributor Andy Bumpus.

Viet Tran LCF Showtime
Viet Tran favours the surreal – loved the dapper animals in costume and flying donkey surrounded by flowers, kittens and bunnies. Why not check out Viet Tran’s blog and Twitter feed?

And over here you can find my Fashion Photography and Styling review.

Categories ,2011, ,Ali Tullett, ,Alison Naomi Tullett, ,Andy Bumpus, ,animals, ,Cheryl Windahl, ,Deborah Jameson, ,Decorative, ,Degree Show, ,Emma Layland, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Fashion Scout, ,Flamingos, ,Graduate Shows, ,Jingwen Sun, ,Kelly Anne Sheppard, ,LCF, ,London College of Fashion, ,Maggie Thatcher, ,pattern, ,Philip Dunn, ,Rachel Wilkinson, ,Showtime, ,Victoria House, ,Viet Tran, ,watercolour

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Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion – Fashion Illustration Graduate Show 2011

Viet Tran dog LCF Showtime
Fashion illustration by Viet Tran.

Touring the fashion illustration talent exhibition at the London College of Fashion Showtime degree show necessitated a bit of a cat and mouse chase in order to take photos without detection by the overzealous security guards who were convinced I was up to no good. I have no idea why… I just want to introduce the world to some great new fashion illustration talents.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Rachel Wilkinson
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Rachel Wilkinson
Rachel Wilkinson‘s decorative symmetrical illustrations were beautifully imagined… I just wish I could find her online!

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Deborah Jameson
Deborah Jameson had painted a large sheet with a characterful beauty portrait.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Emma Layland
Emma Layland had used some interesting print effects to create simple images with great hair/hat detailing.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Alison Naomi Tullett
For Alison Naomi Tullett it was all about the flamingos… painted on to a big banner. A quick glance at her website reveals that she is as enamoured of animals as she is of humans.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Philip Dunn
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Philip Dunn
Philip Dunn used minimal brush strokes to idiosyncratic effect, creating individual and engaging fashion portraits. I do believe that second one is Maggie!

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Jingwen Sun
Jingwen Sun used simple swathes of watercolour to create a bold beauty portrait.

Cheryl Windahl LCF graduate showtime
Cheryl Windahl is a girl after my own heart – I loved her two decorative artworks, displayed opposite each other – each tiny detail covered in swathes of colour and pattern.

Kelly Anne Sheppard LCF Showtime
Kelly Anne Sheppard produced a diptych of fineline menswear. I thought I recognised her – she was one of the illustrators in residence for Fashion Scout last season alongside Amelia’s Magazine contributor Andy Bumpus.

Viet Tran LCF Showtime
Viet Tran favours the surreal – loved the dapper animals in costume and flying donkey surrounded by flowers, kittens and bunnies. Why not check out Viet Tran’s blog and Twitter feed?

And over here you can find my Fashion Photography and Styling review.

Categories ,2011, ,Ali Tullett, ,Alison Naomi Tullett, ,Andy Bumpus, ,animals, ,Cheryl Windahl, ,Deborah Jameson, ,Decorative, ,Degree Show, ,Emma Layland, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Fashion Scout, ,Flamingos, ,Graduate Shows, ,Jingwen Sun, ,Kelly Anne Sheppard, ,LCF, ,London College of Fashion, ,Maggie Thatcher, ,pattern, ,Philip Dunn, ,Rachel Wilkinson, ,Showtime, ,Victoria House, ,Viet Tran, ,watercolour

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Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion – Fashion Photography & Styling Graduate Show 2011

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Liam Warwick
Photography by Liam Warwick.

I was most bemused by the London College of Fashion‘s decision to create an exhibition labelled with nothing but numbers. So, pill lacking the requisite crib sheet I did what I always do: took photos of stuff I liked with the number to check up who was who later on. But then I got spotted by the security guards who made it their business to chase me around the basement at Victoria House. Which means that I didn’t manage to grab shots of everything I liked… and I hope I’ve got my credits right. The LCF Showtime website is hellishly difficult to navigate…. Here’s the best fashion photography from LCF this year.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Ellie Sullivan
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Ellie Sullivan
Ellie Sullivan chose colour themes for her very striking fashion portraits. It worked well.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Akil Verma
Akil Verma‘s dapper man with cigar made for an interesting image.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Ted Mendez
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Ted Mendez
I thought that Ted Mendez‘ portraits of young kids by night were particularly arresting.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Liam Warwick
As were Liam Warwick‘s dreamy portraits of a young gentlemen, unhealthy porcelain perfect against a fuzzy backdrop of foliage.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Emma Gibney
Emma Gibney‘s black and white portraits kept things simple to good effect.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Beinta A Torkilsheyggi
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Beinta A Torkilsheyggi
I was very drawn to Beinta A Torkilsheyggi‘s surreal fashion portrait with fish. It’s hard to do this kind of thing well but she’s managed to create something fresh and intriguing.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Yuirim Roh
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Yuirim Roh
Yuirim Roh‘s classic portraits took a tribal turn to great effect.

Next up: best of Fashion Illustration

Categories ,Akil Verma, ,Beinta A Torkilsheyggi, ,Ellie Sullivan, ,Emma Gibney, ,Fashion Photography, ,LCF, ,Liam Warwick, ,London College of Fashion, ,Ted Mendez, ,Victoria House, ,Yuirim Roh

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Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion – Fashion Photography & Styling Graduate Show 2011

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Liam Warwick
Photography by Liam Warwick.

I was most bemused by the London College of Fashion’s decision to create an exhibition labelled with nothing but numbers. So, lacking the requisite crib sheet I did what I always do: took photos of stuff I liked with the number to check up who was who later on. But then I got spotted by the security guards who made it their business to chase me around the basement at Victoria House. Which means that I didn’t manage to grab shots of everything I liked… and I hope I’ve got my credits right. The LCF Showtime website is hellishly difficult to navigate…. Here’s the best fashion photography from LCF this year.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Ellie Sullivan
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Ellie Sullivan
Ellie Sullivan chose colour themes for her very striking fashion portraits. It worked well.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Akil Verma
Akil Verma’s dapper man with cigar made for an interesting image.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Ted Mendez
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Ted Mendez
I thought that Ted Mendez‘ portraits of young kids by night were particularly arresting.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Liam Warwick
As were Liam Warwick’s dreamy portraits of a young gentlemen, porcelain perfect against a fuzzy backdrop of foliage.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Emma Gibney
Emma Gibney’s black and white portraits kept things simple to good effect.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Beinta A Torkilsheyggi
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Beinta A Torkilsheyggi
I was very drawn to Beinta A Torkilsheyggi’s surreal fashion portrait with fish. It’s hard to do this kind of thing well but she’s managed to create something fresh and intriguing.

London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Yuirim Roh
London College of Fashion degree show review 2011-Yuirim Roh
Yuirim Roh’s classic portraits took a tribal turn to great effect.

Next up: best of Fashion Illustration

Categories ,Akil Verma, ,Beinta A Torkilsheyggi, ,Ellie Sullivan, ,Emma Gibney, ,Fashion Photography, ,LCF, ,Liam Warwick, ,London College of Fashion, ,Ted Mendez, ,Victoria House, ,Yuirim Roh

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Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion MA 2012 Exhibition Review

Hana Cha by Sam Parr
Hana Cha by Sam Parr

Two weeks ago, there was a multicolour explosion deep in the basement of Victoria House, Bloomsbury – it was the MA Graduate Season 2012 show at the London College of Fashion – and it was inspiring.

Hana Cha by Jason Lear
Hana Cha by Jason Lear

The first collection that catches my eye is Carry on Closet, a collaborative project between Renée Lacroix (MA Fashion and the Environment) and Zahra Ash-Harper (MA Entrepreneurship), collectively Antithesis (who Amelia mentored on the CFE Fashion Bootcamp). They’ve created an enviable capsule collection of trans-seasonal, versatile pieces, and it’s the team’s hope that their high quality clothing will result in long-lasting, treasured pieces. I covet the second cloak in their video below, which doubles as a short jacket and vest – it’s one of many thoughtfully-crafted pieces which would slot in well to any contemporary wardrobe.


Next, I meet Daisy Jie Feng (MA Fashion Artefact), who is sporting a delicate silver neckpiece which resembles a set of wings. As we get talking, I understand that this is completely intentional – she was inspired by Kafka’s Metamorphosis to produce a series of necklaces that combine fine jewellery with a story of evolution. Each of her mannequins on display show the pieces becoming progressively more intricate, until we reach the final neckpiece which is made from 265 silver cones wrapped in silver and white gold.

Tina Elisabeth Reiter by Gareth A Hopkins
Tina Elisabeth Reiter by Gareth A Hopkins

Octavia Xiaozi Yang (MA Fashion Artefact) has applied traditional Chinese elements to contemporary jewellery for her Joinery in Jewels project, for me characterised by the enormous resin rubies which can be spied from a distance. No glue or nails are used to create the neck pieces, instead all the materials are constructed to work together, with laser cut perspex, 18 carat gold, and wood.

Tina Elisabeth Reiter by Claire Kearns
Tina Elisabeth Reiter by Claire Kearns

Rounding a corner, everyone stops to gaze at Vivien Ying’s (MA Fashion Footwear) vibrant shoes, which would be perfect come spring. She asks, ‘Is it possible to adapt the aesthetics and principles of Kimono wrapping into the scale and techniques of footwear?’ And indeed it is, as she’s draped the shoes without adding weight to them, and maintained the essence of the Kimono concept by using leathers delicately imprinted with floral patterns.

Vivien Ying by Sam Parr
Vivien Ying by Sam Parr

Ruth Holland’s (MA Fashion Artefact) neck pieces are spectacular. She focuses on reusing materials and wants to make precious pieces from non-precious materials – traditional handmade rope, mixed plastics and resins. This kind of approach makes for pieces obviously steeped in careful craftsmanship, and leaves me wondering why we would ever want to wear anything else – it’s the kind of artwork that is easy to connect with ethically and visually – you just want to reach out and put it on.

Necklace by Ruth Holland
Necklace by Ruth Holland

Tina Elisabeth Reiter by Jason Lear
Tina Elisabeth Reiter by Jason Lear

Charlotte Valkeniers (MA Fashion Artefact) tells me that she isn’t a jewellery person, which is a little bit funny given her enormous neck pieces! Everything is laser cut in to spirals with hand-knitted tubes and hand-forged metal, and her curiosity about the human body and muscle structure is apparent in the shape and weave of the pieces. I like the neutral tones and textures, and come to think of it, their simplicity might be perfect for the person who shies away from decoration.

Neckpiece by Charlotte Valkeniers
Neck piece by Charlotte Valkeniers

Photographs by Rebecca Merrick
Photographs by Rebecca Merrick

After perusing the photography portion of the show (including some beautiful, threaded images from Rebecca Merrick), I witness performances from the students doing their MA in Costume Design for Performance. The audience is captivated, first by Lisa Duncan’s costume for a performance of Orlando, and later, by a very personal work from Lesley Asare, iShape Beauty, which ends in cheers.

Costume design by Lisa Duncan
Costume design by Lisa Duncan

Oenghus in Love by Lucy Mitchell
Óenghus in Love by Lucy Mitchell

Two nights after I visit, the annual MA Catwalk Show takes place at the V&A: Tina Elisabeth Reiter (MA Fashion Design Technology, Menswear) is announced winner of the Menswear Collection of the Year, and Hana Cha (MA Fashion Design Technology, Womenswear) winner of the Womenswear Collection of the Year. Congratulations to both on creating such rich, innovative collections.

Watch the MA_12 Catwalk Show here

Object by Ana Rajcevic
Object by Ana Rajcevic

If you’re interested in seeing more from this exciting institution, read our London College of Fashion Fashion Illustration and Photography and Styling reviews from 2011.

Categories ,2012, ,Ana Rajcevic, ,Antithesis, ,Bloomsbury, ,Carry on Closet, ,Charlotte Valkeniers, ,Claire Kearns, ,Daisy Jie Feng, ,Ecofashion, ,fashion, ,Fashion Bootcamp, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Hana Cha, ,iShape Beauty, ,Jason Lear, ,jewellery, ,Joinery in Jewels, ,Kafka, ,Lesley Asare, ,Lisa Duncan, ,London College of Fashion, ,Lucy Mitchell, ,ma, ,Menswear Collection of the Year, ,Metamorphosis, ,Octavia Xiaozi Yang, ,Óenghus in Love, ,Rebecca Merrick, ,Renée Lacroix, ,Ruth Holland, ,Sam Parr, ,Tina Elisabeth Reiter, ,Victoria House, ,Vivien Ying, ,Womenswear Collection of the Year, ,Zahra Ash-Harper

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Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion MA Exhibition Review


Illustrator Naomi Law and Amelia’s Mag contributor Jessica Furseth


The fabulous 6 Day Riot


6 Day Riot lead singer Tamara


The Scout Hut at 123 Bethnal Green Road


Illustrator Joana Faria


Amelia with Rachael and Louise from Prick Your Finger and Harriet and Rosie of Tatty Devine


Amelia’s Nina Dolcetti shoes


Illustrator Rachel de Ste. Croix


Kay McMahon from Wallpaper.com


Amelia’s Mag contributor Abi Renshaw! (on the right)


Francesca from Forward PR showing off with her illustration by Artist Andrea


Amelia cuts into the Lily Vanilli masterpiece!


Illustrator Emma Block


Nick from Forward PR


Will of the Mystery Jets with Madeleine from Dial M For Music


Lucy (right) from Forward PR

Bex Glover!


Amelia with illustrators Jo Cheung, viagra June Chanpoomidole and Joana Faria


Amelia with illustrator Antonia Parker


Me with Bex Glover. I’m clearly showing the effects of sleep deprivation and too much vodka.


Contributor Sally Mumby Croft


Illustrator Faye West gets her groove on…



Illustrator Naomi Law and Amelia’s Mag contributor Jessica Furseth


The fabulous 6 Day Riot


6 Day Riot lead singer Tamara


The Scout Hut at 123 Bethnal Green Road


Illustrator Joana Faria


Amelia with Rachael and Louise from Prick Your Finger and Harriet and Rosie of Tatty Devine


Amelia’s Nina Dolcetti shoes


Illustrator Rachel de Ste. Croix


Kay McMahon from Wallpaper.com


Amelia’s Mag contributor Abi Renshaw! (on the right)


Francesca from Forward PR showing off with her illustration by Artist Andrea


Amelia cuts into the Lily Vanilli masterpiece!


Illustrator Emma Block


Nick from Forward PR


Will of the Mystery Jets with Madeleine from Dial M For Music


Lucy (right) from Forward PR

Bex Glover!


Amelia with illustrators Jo Cheung, more about June Chanpoomidole and Joana Faria


Amelia with illustrator Antonia Parker


Me with Bex Glover. I’m clearly showing the effects of sleep deprivation and too much vodka.


Contributor Sally Mumby Croft


Illustrator Faye West gets her groove on…



Illustrator Naomi Law and Amelia’s Mag contributor Jessica Furseth


The fabulous 6 Day Riot


6 Day Riot lead singer Tamara


The Scout Hut at 123 Bethnal Green Road


Illustrator Joana Faria


Amelia with Rachael and Louise from Prick Your Finger and Harriet and Rosie of Tatty Devine


Amelia’s Nina Dolcetti shoes


Illustrator Rachel de Ste. Croix


Kay McMahon from Wallpaper.com


Amelia’s Mag contributor Abi Renshaw! (on the right)


Francesca from Forward PR showing off with her illustration by Artist Andrea


Amelia cuts into the Lily Vanilli masterpiece!


Illustrator Emma Block


Nick from Forward PR


Will of the Mystery Jets with Madeleine from Dial M For Music


Lucy (right) from Forward PR

Bex Glover!


Amelia with illustrators Jo Cheung, rx June Chanpoomidole and Joana Faria


Amelia with illustrator Antonia Parker


Me with Bex Glover. I’m clearly showing the effects of sleep deprivation and too much vodka.


Contributor Sally Mumby Croft


Illustrator Faye West gets her groove on…



Marie Anne Lynch, drug illustrated by Antonia Parker

This week the London College of Fashion exhibits work from eight of its 2011 MA fashion courses, from photography to footwear. Housed in Victoria House on Bloomsbury Square, where the ON|OFF catwalk shows take place during London Fashion Week, it’s open to the public until 9th February. I went to the opening to see if I could spy some fashion stars in the making.


Vesna Pesic


Paul Kim


Oliver Ruuger


Yan Liang


Nam Young Kim. All photography by Katie Wright

If you visit, be careful not to walk straight past the main event on the way to the basement – the clothing from the Fashion Design Technology MA is in the foyer on the ground floor. The well-deserved winner of Collection of the Year was Matteo Molinari (his name already sounds like a successful Italian brand), whose all-black menswear collection played with the proportions of sharp suits – a longer sleeve here, a higher waist there – and added crochet and cable-knit elements.


Charlie Goldthorpe, illustrated by Sarah Matthews

Another shortlisted designer, Jo Power showed dresses so long, black and formless I wondered if she’d been commissioned by the Church of England to create ecclesiastical wear. But in reality, Power could be well-placed to ride out a current fad: her brand of monochrome minimalism (save for the odd splash of scarlet red) is, along with Phoebe Philo, Jil Sander et al, the kind on which the fashion world is heaping masses of praise at the moment.

At the other end of the spectrum, Tatwasin Kahjeenikorn’s dresses were so densely encrusted with heavy hematite beads and trinkets they were difficult to lift off the rail. One black sleeveless sack dress was covered in rows of metal components you’d be more likely to find in a hardware shop than a haberdashery.


Paul Beckett, illustrated by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Paul Beckett experimented with sportswear for men to great effect as tracksuit tops were rendered in leather and silk in muted brown tones. Who’d have thought the midpoint between chav and luxe could be so chic? His collection looks like an ideal portfolio for an interview at Adidas. Equally employable, I wouldn’t be surprised if Miuccia Prada offered Jennifer Morris a job in future – I can easily imagine Morris’s turquoise and blue silk pajama-esque trousers and matching jacket on the Miu Miu catwalk.


Zoe Grace Fletcher, illustrated by Gemma Smith

Over in the Fashion and the Environment MA room, students presented a variety of approaches to solving the problems of the unsustainable and wasteful nature of clothing production. If there was a prize for the best collection title, I would give it to Zoe Grace Fletcher. ‘Britain needs Ewe’ explored the local sourcing route to sustainability, and saw Fletcher learning how to shear sheep and dig for Madder roots to extract dye for her hand-knitted wool dresses. Focusing on clothes that can lead to a more sustainable lifestyle when living in a hot climate, Lu Yinyin took a hundred-year-old Chinese dying technique using yams and mud to create a silk that helps to keep the wearer cool. Lu found that air conditioning, a huge source of energy consumption, could actually be turned down a degree or two when Sun Silk garments were worn.


Paul Kim, illustrated by Karolina Burdon

From the title alone I wasn’t even sure what the Fashion Artefact MA course entailed, but it may as well have been called Fashion Accessories because hats, bags and shoes were the artefacts of choice for most designers. In fact, Charlotte Goldthorpe told me she started on the footwear course before the tutor decided she was ‘too weird’ (her words) and she made the switch. A wise decision, if you ask me, as her standout collection took found objects that had lost their functionality (a broken key, a locket that wouldn’t open) and cast them in spheres of silicon. Paired with traditional shapes like a doctor’s bag and an old-fashioned suitcase in flesh-coloured leather, the collection had a wonderful almost medical feel to it. Also in the weird and wonderful artefact category, Oliver Ruuger took the anonymous bowler-hatted businessman archetype and turned it on its head; his umbrella with a ponytail and briefcase covered in soft spikes and metallic studs are the antithesis of conservative dressing.


Ivan Dauriz, illustrated by Alison Day

All in all, the LCF collections may not be as avant-garde and ground-breaking as that other great London fashion institution Central Saint Martins, but there’s clearly a lot of talent on show at this exhibition. It’ll be interesting to see which of these graduates return to show at Victoria House in the future in its London Fashion Week capacity.

Categories ,Adidas, ,Charlotte Goldthorpe, ,Fashion and the Environment, ,Fashion Artefact, ,Fashion Design Technology, ,Jennifer Morris, ,Jo Power, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lu Yinyin, ,ma, ,Matteo Molinari, ,Miu Miu, ,Oliver Ruuger, ,onoff, ,Paul Beckett, ,Prada, ,Sun Silk, ,Tatwasin Kahjeenikorn, ,Victoria House, ,Zoe Grace Fletcher

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Belle Sauvage

Belle Sauvage. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Belle Sauvage. All photography by Amelia Gregory unless otherwise stated.

It’s always good, approved I find, to get talking to the various freaks I photograph at fashion week. So there I was, taking an artfully staged pose of a boy channelling a New Romantic Michael Jackson (I’m sure there’s nothing like a death to bring on the best types of homage) when we got into a little conversation. “Are you a blogger?” he asked. “Why yes, I suppose I am, I said,” giving him my card. “Ohhhhh,” he went. “I know you – you’ve taught me. You came down to Epsom and gave us a lecture recently.”

Looking HAWT at fashion week gets you places...
Looking HAWT at fashion week gets you places…

I congratulated him on actually making an effort to get out to the fashion shows and he bemoaned his classmates, many of whom obviously weren’t inclined to blag it into the shows or maybe just didn’t possess his particular kind of panache. He told me had tickets for Mark Fast. Really? “Nightmare,” he said like a seasoned pro, gesticulating to the crush outside the venue before being whisked straight to the front of the queue by his mates. You see kids, if you dress up and make an effort to look FABULOUS, you get automatic access to all the best bits of fashion week. Mark Fast eh? I was refused tickets for that show dear readers. “Sorry we are oversubscribed so cannot accommodate you,” was the abrupt response from one Charlotte Delahunty (who she?) Unless, it appears, you are an ambitious student of mine. In which case you will be accommodated. I talked to Mark at his stand over at Somerset House and in person he proved to be very lovely, but it is the press bitches that control the gates to the shows and it pays to know these people. And they know it. Unfortunately I’m not very good at sucking arse. Sorry, I mean, being polite and charming (unless I genuinely like you). Story of my life really – but that doesn’t mean that I wouldn’t recommend making that little bit extra bit of effort to get along in fashion if that’s where your future lies. The future lies with the ambitious. Go out there, make friends and always, always dress fabulous.

Belle Sauvage runway. Photography by Tim Adey.
Belle Sauvage runway. Photography by Tim Adey.

Belle Sauvage. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Belle Sauvage by Maryanne Oliver
Belle Sauvage by Maryanne Oliver.

Belle Sauvage.
Belle Sauvage by Maryanne Oliver
Belle Sauvage by Maryanne Oliver.

Belle Sauvage
Check out those armoured shoes. Won’t get into any trouble in those, no siree.

Belle Sauvage high hair and close plaits by Maryanne Oliver
Belle Sauvage high hair and close plaits by Maryanne Oliver.

Belle Sauvage

But back to the shows. Belle Sauvage is the baby of designers Virginia Ferreira and Christian Neuman. They’ve only just starting showing at London Fashion Week and there was a good crowd piled into Victoria House to see what they’d cooked up for their new collection. They have already made a bit of a name for their strong digital prints, and on this score they did not disappoint. Fritz Lang Metropolis inspired kaleidoscopic shapes were splattered across leggings and short shift dressings. A large face stared ominously back from oversized slouchy knitwear. Huge protected shoes, spiked and plated shapes emphasised the ever-present armoured theme, as did the severe back-combed mohawks and high swept eyeliner – making the models appear alien-esque, cold and untouchable as they strode down the runway to an industrial sound track. Belle Sauvage class themselves as a “boutique” brand and retail at a reasonable price on websites such as ASOS. It’s not easy to marry catwalk edginess with commerciality – especially at this price point – but Belle Sauvage seem to be making admirable headway. Other brands would do well to watch and learn.

Belle Sauvage. Photography by Tim Adey.
Belle Sauvage ALIENS. Photography by Tim Adey.

Categories ,ASOS, ,Belle Sauvage, ,Blagging, ,boutique, ,Christian Neuman, ,Digital Prints, ,epsom, ,Fritz Lang, ,Leggings, ,Mark Fast, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Michael Jackson, ,New Romantic, ,UCCA, ,Victoria House, ,Virginia Ferreira

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu by Amelia

Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

And so the circus starts all over again…. in a not particularly auspicious way for little ol’ me, pill as I was nearly run over by a succession of buses rally driving bumper to bumper through Holborn as I was wending my way to my first fashion week show astride my lethal Raleigh Shopper (yes, price Shopper, medications not Chopper. There will be no wheelies on this bike). And then a nasty man in a car called me a ‘stupid caaah’. It all started swimmingly I tells you. Bastard.

At the on/off premises – Victoria House in Bloomsbury – I was met by two young girls bearing brollies as if promoting a car show outside Earl’s Court rather than the uber-trendy off schedule space where all the most hotly tipped designers will show. Inside I was warned not to trip over a step leading to a stuffed deer over which swung, and will swing all week, an intricately papercut sculpture. Rob Ryan, I blame you – papercutting is so very now, it’s even on the light fittings in the press den.

Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole
Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole

Getting into the show proved simple – a charming cockney fella on the door was greeting all the as yet fresh-faced fashionistas with a cheery grin, merrily announcing: “You got a pass love? Don’t matter what kind. Oyster card will do!” Next to the showhall there was a hastily erected memorial to Alexander Mcqueen that looked suspiciously as if it may have been sponsored by apple, touch screens showcasing his catwalk shows interspersed with the occasional app rollcall. A more personal homage was to be found over at the BFC tent, featuring some touching hand written messages.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie Le Mindu was and is principally known as a hair stylist, so it comes as no great surprise that his show was sponsored by copious quantities of hair products and… a wig salon; who provided the large empty pink boxes that everyone is seen touting about the place for the ensuing day, perfectly sized to make a great girly box file. In fact there was so much to take away that I struggled under the load from the very first show. Whoever said there was a recession?

I took my place on the front row next to Guy, editor of Fashion156 Magazine, which is another online fashion magazine. He told me that he had 12 people covering the shows, including backstage photographers. And they should be uploading throughout the day. I was impressed!

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

What can I tell you about Charlie Le Mindu? The show started with a lady bearing a crystal crucifix on her head and things just got better. The black lace bodystockings were merely a foil for the impressive cocoon like wigs and head pieces, constructed from feathers, tassels and all things exotic – most of it was not exactly clothing but defiantly offered a fan-fucking-tastic kick off to fashion week. The models stomped down the runway in royal blue make up, some smeared in deepest black bodypaint. Capes and swinging bags to match your hair? Why, step this way madam.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie is clearly a magnet for the more exotic types of fashionista and there were plenty of strangely dressed people to be ogled, even so early in the morning, including a large man with a bushy beard, sexy black dress, (possibly real) fur stole and glamourous red lipstick. And the best bit about such creatures is that they’re more than happy to pose because they’re all hoping for a few moments of internet glory – and the possibility of flouncing their look from here to Timbuktu. We can all be famous now!

Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole
Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole

Read contributor Matt Bramford’s review of Charlie Le Mindu here, with illustrations by Maryanne Oliver.

Categories ,Alexander McQueen, ,Bex Glover, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Feathers, ,Hairstylist, ,Jewels, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,lfw, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Off Schedule, ,onoff, ,rob ryan, ,Victoria House

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