Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Belle Sauvage

Belle Sauvage. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Belle Sauvage. All photography by Amelia Gregory unless otherwise stated.

It’s always good, approved I find, to get talking to the various freaks I photograph at fashion week. So there I was, taking an artfully staged pose of a boy channelling a New Romantic Michael Jackson (I’m sure there’s nothing like a death to bring on the best types of homage) when we got into a little conversation. “Are you a blogger?” he asked. “Why yes, I suppose I am, I said,” giving him my card. “Ohhhhh,” he went. “I know you – you’ve taught me. You came down to Epsom and gave us a lecture recently.”

Looking HAWT at fashion week gets you places...
Looking HAWT at fashion week gets you places…

I congratulated him on actually making an effort to get out to the fashion shows and he bemoaned his classmates, many of whom obviously weren’t inclined to blag it into the shows or maybe just didn’t possess his particular kind of panache. He told me had tickets for Mark Fast. Really? “Nightmare,” he said like a seasoned pro, gesticulating to the crush outside the venue before being whisked straight to the front of the queue by his mates. You see kids, if you dress up and make an effort to look FABULOUS, you get automatic access to all the best bits of fashion week. Mark Fast eh? I was refused tickets for that show dear readers. “Sorry we are oversubscribed so cannot accommodate you,” was the abrupt response from one Charlotte Delahunty (who she?) Unless, it appears, you are an ambitious student of mine. In which case you will be accommodated. I talked to Mark at his stand over at Somerset House and in person he proved to be very lovely, but it is the press bitches that control the gates to the shows and it pays to know these people. And they know it. Unfortunately I’m not very good at sucking arse. Sorry, I mean, being polite and charming (unless I genuinely like you). Story of my life really – but that doesn’t mean that I wouldn’t recommend making that little bit extra bit of effort to get along in fashion if that’s where your future lies. The future lies with the ambitious. Go out there, make friends and always, always dress fabulous.

Belle Sauvage runway. Photography by Tim Adey.
Belle Sauvage runway. Photography by Tim Adey.

Belle Sauvage. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Belle Sauvage by Maryanne Oliver
Belle Sauvage by Maryanne Oliver.

Belle Sauvage.
Belle Sauvage by Maryanne Oliver
Belle Sauvage by Maryanne Oliver.

Belle Sauvage
Check out those armoured shoes. Won’t get into any trouble in those, no siree.

Belle Sauvage high hair and close plaits by Maryanne Oliver
Belle Sauvage high hair and close plaits by Maryanne Oliver.

Belle Sauvage

But back to the shows. Belle Sauvage is the baby of designers Virginia Ferreira and Christian Neuman. They’ve only just starting showing at London Fashion Week and there was a good crowd piled into Victoria House to see what they’d cooked up for their new collection. They have already made a bit of a name for their strong digital prints, and on this score they did not disappoint. Fritz Lang Metropolis inspired kaleidoscopic shapes were splattered across leggings and short shift dressings. A large face stared ominously back from oversized slouchy knitwear. Huge protected shoes, spiked and plated shapes emphasised the ever-present armoured theme, as did the severe back-combed mohawks and high swept eyeliner – making the models appear alien-esque, cold and untouchable as they strode down the runway to an industrial sound track. Belle Sauvage class themselves as a “boutique” brand and retail at a reasonable price on websites such as ASOS. It’s not easy to marry catwalk edginess with commerciality – especially at this price point – but Belle Sauvage seem to be making admirable headway. Other brands would do well to watch and learn.

Belle Sauvage. Photography by Tim Adey.
Belle Sauvage ALIENS. Photography by Tim Adey.

Categories ,ASOS, ,Belle Sauvage, ,Blagging, ,boutique, ,Christian Neuman, ,Digital Prints, ,epsom, ,Fritz Lang, ,Leggings, ,Mark Fast, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Michael Jackson, ,New Romantic, ,UCCA, ,Victoria House, ,Virginia Ferreira

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu by Amelia

Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

And so the circus starts all over again…. in a not particularly auspicious way for little ol’ me, pill as I was nearly run over by a succession of buses rally driving bumper to bumper through Holborn as I was wending my way to my first fashion week show astride my lethal Raleigh Shopper (yes, price Shopper, medications not Chopper. There will be no wheelies on this bike). And then a nasty man in a car called me a ‘stupid caaah’. It all started swimmingly I tells you. Bastard.

At the on/off premises – Victoria House in Bloomsbury – I was met by two young girls bearing brollies as if promoting a car show outside Earl’s Court rather than the uber-trendy off schedule space where all the most hotly tipped designers will show. Inside I was warned not to trip over a step leading to a stuffed deer over which swung, and will swing all week, an intricately papercut sculpture. Rob Ryan, I blame you – papercutting is so very now, it’s even on the light fittings in the press den.

Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole
Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole

Getting into the show proved simple – a charming cockney fella on the door was greeting all the as yet fresh-faced fashionistas with a cheery grin, merrily announcing: “You got a pass love? Don’t matter what kind. Oyster card will do!” Next to the showhall there was a hastily erected memorial to Alexander Mcqueen that looked suspiciously as if it may have been sponsored by apple, touch screens showcasing his catwalk shows interspersed with the occasional app rollcall. A more personal homage was to be found over at the BFC tent, featuring some touching hand written messages.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie Le Mindu was and is principally known as a hair stylist, so it comes as no great surprise that his show was sponsored by copious quantities of hair products and… a wig salon; who provided the large empty pink boxes that everyone is seen touting about the place for the ensuing day, perfectly sized to make a great girly box file. In fact there was so much to take away that I struggled under the load from the very first show. Whoever said there was a recession?

I took my place on the front row next to Guy, editor of Fashion156 Magazine, which is another online fashion magazine. He told me that he had 12 people covering the shows, including backstage photographers. And they should be uploading throughout the day. I was impressed!

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

What can I tell you about Charlie Le Mindu? The show started with a lady bearing a crystal crucifix on her head and things just got better. The black lace bodystockings were merely a foil for the impressive cocoon like wigs and head pieces, constructed from feathers, tassels and all things exotic – most of it was not exactly clothing but defiantly offered a fan-fucking-tastic kick off to fashion week. The models stomped down the runway in royal blue make up, some smeared in deepest black bodypaint. Capes and swinging bags to match your hair? Why, step this way madam.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie is clearly a magnet for the more exotic types of fashionista and there were plenty of strangely dressed people to be ogled, even so early in the morning, including a large man with a bushy beard, sexy black dress, (possibly real) fur stole and glamourous red lipstick. And the best bit about such creatures is that they’re more than happy to pose because they’re all hoping for a few moments of internet glory – and the possibility of flouncing their look from here to Timbuktu. We can all be famous now!

Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole
Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole

Read contributor Matt Bramford’s review of Charlie Le Mindu here, with illustrations by Maryanne Oliver.

Categories ,Alexander McQueen, ,Bex Glover, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Feathers, ,Hairstylist, ,Jewels, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,lfw, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Off Schedule, ,onoff, ,rob ryan, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu by Amelia

Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

And so the circus starts all over again…. in a not particularly auspicious way for little ol’ me, pill as I was nearly run over by a succession of buses rally driving bumper to bumper through Holborn as I was wending my way to my first fashion week show astride my lethal Raleigh Shopper (yes, price Shopper, medications not Chopper. There will be no wheelies on this bike). And then a nasty man in a car called me a ‘stupid caaah’. It all started swimmingly I tells you. Bastard.

At the on/off premises – Victoria House in Bloomsbury – I was met by two young girls bearing brollies as if promoting a car show outside Earl’s Court rather than the uber-trendy off schedule space where all the most hotly tipped designers will show. Inside I was warned not to trip over a step leading to a stuffed deer over which swung, and will swing all week, an intricately papercut sculpture. Rob Ryan, I blame you – papercutting is so very now, it’s even on the light fittings in the press den.

Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole
Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole

Getting into the show proved simple – a charming cockney fella on the door was greeting all the as yet fresh-faced fashionistas with a cheery grin, merrily announcing: “You got a pass love? Don’t matter what kind. Oyster card will do!” Next to the showhall there was a hastily erected memorial to Alexander Mcqueen that looked suspiciously as if it may have been sponsored by apple, touch screens showcasing his catwalk shows interspersed with the occasional app rollcall. A more personal homage was to be found over at the BFC tent, featuring some touching hand written messages.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie Le Mindu was and is principally known as a hair stylist, so it comes as no great surprise that his show was sponsored by copious quantities of hair products and… a wig salon; who provided the large empty pink boxes that everyone is seen touting about the place for the ensuing day, perfectly sized to make a great girly box file. In fact there was so much to take away that I struggled under the load from the very first show. Whoever said there was a recession?

I took my place on the front row next to Guy, editor of Fashion156 Magazine, which is another online fashion magazine. He told me that he had 12 people covering the shows, including backstage photographers. And they should be uploading throughout the day. I was impressed!

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

What can I tell you about Charlie Le Mindu? The show started with a lady bearing a crystal crucifix on her head and things just got better. The black lace bodystockings were merely a foil for the impressive cocoon like wigs and head pieces, constructed from feathers, tassels and all things exotic – most of it was not exactly clothing but defiantly offered a fan-fucking-tastic kick off to fashion week. The models stomped down the runway in royal blue make up, some smeared in deepest black bodypaint. Capes and swinging bags to match your hair? Why, step this way madam.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover
Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie is clearly a magnet for the more exotic types of fashionista and there were plenty of strangely dressed people to be ogled, even so early in the morning, including a large man with a bushy beard, sexy black dress, (possibly real) fur stole and glamourous red lipstick. And the best bit about such creatures is that they’re more than happy to pose because they’re all hoping for a few moments of internet glory – and the possibility of flouncing their look from here to Timbuktu. We can all be famous now!

Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole
Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole

Read contributor Matt Bramford’s review of Charlie Le Mindu here, with illustrations by Maryanne Oliver.

Categories ,Alexander McQueen, ,Bex Glover, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Feathers, ,Hairstylist, ,Jewels, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,lfw, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Off Schedule, ,onoff, ,rob ryan, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Falguni & Shane Peacock

Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil
Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil
Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil.

The invite for Falguni & Shane Peacock showed a plethora of jewelled leopards photoshopping their way out of a bodiced mannequin, symptoms in a shower of what looked feasibly like a large quantity of blood. Rendered in soothing hues of beige, closer dissection of what appeared at first glance to be quite tasteful revealed an image that was a little more disturbing. What could it all mean?

Falguni invite

Fortunately, or perhaps unfortunately, the design of the invite bore little relevance to the Falguni & Shane Peacock show early on Sunday morning at Victoria House, notable in it’s organisation for being quite disorganised. Looked after by Blow PR this weren’t. People piled in and sat wily nily where they fancied. No press bitches to move us along… always good for a front row seat I find. And the audience was indeed very different from other shows – featuring a preponderance of bejewelled, sunglass-bearing Asians and identikit gay men with badly bleached hair and orange skin.

Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil
Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil.

It came as no surprise to discover that Falguni & Shane Peacock are from India, with a publicity shot straight out of the Bollywood school of chic. “Where other designers travel thousands of miles for the luxury of the world’s largest selection of high quality fabrics and embellishments, the dynamic designer couple have it all at their fingertips,” trumpeted the publicity blurb. “They create and manufacture in-house at their factories and employ over 200 highly skilled seamsters and embroiderers.” Er, I’m sorry but I’m not sure that’s a particularly special feature if we’re talking clothing made in India. I think, for instance, that our very own Monsoon could probably claim the same kind of thing. Now what I would be interested in is the conditions of said employees, having spoken widely to designers working in the Indian fashion industry for issue 10 of Amelia’s Magazine, and being well aware of the level of equality (or lack thereof) for garment workers in that part of the world.

But maybe I’m just being mean, because Falguni & Shane also “support many charity causes relating to children and cancer.” Do you see what they did there? Children and cancer folks. You don’t get much more saintly than that.

Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Anyway, I digress. What were the clothes actually like? Well, there was no blood and no leopard print (very disappointing for an animal print fan like myself). Instead a succession of dresses in ultra sheer fabrics skimmed over naked bottoms unadorned with the bright geometrics applique and metallic frippery that adorned the fronts. According to the press release inspiration came from the abstract graphics of the 80s, but it’s amazing how an Indian sensibility can transform this into something so much more, well, glitzy. It isn’t hard to picture these clothes worn by Bollywood starlets – even, or perhaps because of, their revealing nature, for times have changed on the sub-continent, even if a taste for maximalist embellishment lives on.

Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

The most interesting piece was a sculptural turquoise dress, unfortunately worn by a particularly galumphing model who did its shape no justice. It was interesting to note that Falguni & Shane chose to totally eschew Indian models – maybe we don’t have enough, utter madness given the huge Asian diaspora in the UK – in favour of a host of slightly ropey models in every other colour under the sun.

Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil
Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil.

But what really intrigued me is why Falguni & Shane decided to show in London at all. It must have cost a fortune to put this show together, and their sensibility is very much geared towards their home audience. Perhaps they have their sights set on a potentially lucrative ex-pat community, which further begs the question, why not find models better suited to show the collection? Or perhaps the presence of the orange over-coiffured gays signifies a desire to hit the ex Page Three girl market. I might mention Jordan briefly here. There, I just did it. Jordan. See, did it again. Wonder how this will affect my website stats? Move along now… Sorry, no fake boobs/badly dyed wigs/car-crash marriages here.

And I’m not sure about that legendary craftsmanship – apparently the runway was littered with beads and bits of applique once the show was over.

Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. Aw, they look very sweet don’t they? Have I been too mean…

Categories ,80s, ,abstract, ,Blow PR, ,Bollywood, ,Embellishment, ,Falguni & Shane, ,Geometrics, ,India, ,Jordan, ,Monsoon, ,Orange Gays, ,Page Three, ,Peacock, ,Sculptural, ,Sheer, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: J Maskrey by Amelia

J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.

J Maskrey is responsible for a lot. You know all those tacky glitter tattoos that you can buy in every chemist and pound shop? Well, troche she’s the one to blame. This former make-up artist invented “skin jewellery” over 10 years ago, page when she glued some Swarovski crystals onto an adhesive backing. But those glittery Superdrug rose tattoos just ain’t the same, patient so despite the mass dumbing down of her initial idea J Maskrey has managed to maintain a dazzling career at the epicentre of fashion cooldom, and it is on the catwalk that J Maskrey‘s jewelled masterpieces really glitter.

J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.

Once again man wearing rubber, gimp mask and inflatable wig was front row. In at least his second outfit of the day for J Maskrey’s evening show at Victoria House. Where do these people change? And what on earth was his fashion statement? I can put up with any amount of pain in the name of erm, beauty standing out from the crowd. And believe me I know how much he suffered under those bright runway lights because when he stood up to leave the show the sweat literally flooded out of his sleeves into a puddle on the floor. Nice. Rather you than me – lady posing with the Gimp Fashionista.

Gimp Fashionista at Iris Van Herpen
Gimp Fashionista at Iris Van Herpen.

Gimp Fashionista dripping on a fan at J Maskrey.
Gimp Fashionista dripping on a fan at J Maskrey.

J Maskrey has had a long relationship with uber stylist Judy Blame, and their collaboration continues. Against a curtained stage set the slow moving models posed beautifully at intervals under the bright lighting before gathering en masse at the helm of the catwalk, making this show a dream for good photography.

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey used careful staging and immaculate posing to create a beautiful catwalk show. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

A boy’s smooth back and arms were entirely covered with black glittery shapes, a girl with a severe bobbed haircut revealed a cluster of leopard spots racing across her chest and back, another bared glittered slashes across her breasts, culminating with dangling beads dripping like congealed blood.

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

A demure girl with high neckline and primly bunned hair held her hands gently to her waist, where the light glistened on Swarovski crystals dripping from her delicate fingernails. Gigantic Geisha-inspired headdresses teetered on top of heads.

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

This was a beautiful spectacle, but one where the clothes appeared to come a distant second to the dazzling performance. Looking back it becomes more apparent that there some highly desirable pieces buried beneath all the glitzy showpieces. Take the heavily beaded skullcap and cape, cute little nobbled skate skirt and chain print top – all actually very wearable. And not for nothing did I spot J Maskrey herself wearing the slouchy t-shirt dress with huge glittered logo at the On/Off party. To which I was dragged kicking and screaming “But I don’t do fashion parties anymore… oh okay just for one cocktail then.”

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Needless to say I got in a bad mood very quickly because I really don’t know anyone in fashion anymore, and usually can’t remember anyone’s names or what they actually do, which further exacerbates the situation when they come over to me all chatty. And then my Canon 5D Mark II camera broke down with an error 20 (it does this every now and again, usually when I really REALLY need to use it) so I could no longer hide behind my camera – which I often do as a way of disengaging from situations.

Ladies in the loo at the On/Off party.
Ladies in the loo at the On/Off party.

Luckily it was at this point that the Sugababes arrived so we clambered on a bench to watch them sing before we left. You know what? They were definitely singing live with a good amount of gusto, and they certainly seemed to be enjoying themselves. It was really very sweet. And a good way to end an exceedingly long day, with just one of those small surprises that every fashion week throws up.

Sugababes performing at the On/Off party.
Sugababes performing at the On/Off party.

Categories ,Bex Glover, ,Canon, ,Crystals, ,Fashionista, ,Geisha, ,Gimp, ,Glitter, ,Headdresses, ,J Maskrey, ,Judy Blame, ,menswear, ,onoff, ,Skin Jewellery, ,Sugababes, ,Swarovski, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: J Maskrey by Amelia

J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.

J Maskrey is responsible for a lot. You know all those tacky glitter tattoos that you can buy in every chemist and pound shop? Well, she’s the one to blame. This former make-up artist invented “skin jewellery” over 10 years ago, when she glued some Swarovski crystals onto an adhesive backing. But those glittery Superdrug rose tattoos just ain’t the same, so despite the mass dumbing down of her initial idea J Maskrey has managed to maintain a dazzling career at the epicentre of fashion cooldom, and it is on the catwalk that J Maskrey’s jewelled masterpieces really glitter.

J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.
J Maskrey by Bex Glover.

Once again man wearing rubber, gimp mask and inflatable wig was front row. In at least his second outfit of the day for J Maskrey’s evening show at Victoria House. Where do these people change? And what on earth was his fashion statement? I can put up with any amount of pain in the name of erm, beauty standing out from the crowd. And believe me I know how much he suffered under those bright runway lights because when he stood up to leave the show the sweat literally flooded out of his sleeves into a puddle on the floor. Nice. Rather you than me – lady posing with the Gimp Fashionista.

Gimp Fashionista at Iris Van Herpen
Gimp Fashionista at Iris Van Herpen.

Gimp Fashionista dripping on a fan at J Maskrey.
Gimp Fashionista dripping on a fan at J Maskrey.

J Maskrey has had a long relationship with uber stylist Judy Blame, and their collaboration continues. Against a curtained stage set the slow moving models posed beautifully at intervals under the bright lighting before gathering en masse at the helm of the catwalk, making this show a dream for good photography.

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey used careful staging and immaculate posing to create a beautiful catwalk show. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

A boy’s smooth back and arms were entirely covered with black glittery shapes, a girl with a severe bobbed haircut revealed a cluster of leopard spots racing across her chest and back, another bared glittered slashes across her breasts, culminating with dangling beads dripping like congealed blood.

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

A demure girl with high neckline and primly bunned hair held her hands gently to her waist, where the light glistened on Swarovski crystals dripping from her delicate fingernails. Gigantic Geisha-inspired headdresses teetered on top of heads.

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

This was a beautiful spectacle, but one where the clothes appeared to come a distant second to the dazzling performance. Looking back it becomes more apparent that there some highly desirable pieces buried beneath all the glitzy showpieces. Take the heavily beaded skullcap and cape, cute little nobbled skate skirt and chain print top – all actually very wearable. And not for nothing did I spot J Maskrey herself wearing the slouchy t-shirt dress with huge glittered logo at the On/Off party. To which I was dragged kicking and screaming “But I don’t do fashion parties anymore… oh okay just for one cocktail then.”

J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
J Maskrey. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Needless to say I got in a bad mood very quickly because I really don’t know anyone in fashion anymore, and usually can’t remember anyone’s names or what they actually do, which further exacerbates the situation when they come over to me all chatty. And then my Canon 5D Mark II camera broke down with an error 20 (it does this every now and again, usually when I really REALLY need to use it) so I could no longer hide behind my camera – which I often do as a way of disengaging from situations.

Ladies in the loo at the On/Off party.
Ladies in the loo at the On/Off party.

Luckily it was at this point that the Sugababes arrived so we clambered on a bench to watch them sing before we left. You know what? They were definitely singing live with a good amount of gusto, and they certainly seemed to be enjoying themselves. It was really very sweet. And a good way to end an exceedingly long day, with just one of those small surprises that every fashion week throws up.

Sugababes performing at the On/Off party.
Sugababes performing at the On/Off party.

Categories ,Bex Glover, ,Canon, ,Crystals, ,Fashionista, ,Geisha, ,Gimp, ,Glitter, ,Headdresses, ,J Maskrey, ,Judy Blame, ,menswear, ,onoff, ,Skin Jewellery, ,Sugababes, ,Swarovski, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Pam Hogg and Nick Cave, Peaches Geldof, Mika

Pedal-powered cinema: doesn’t require a spanner in the works

Oxford, approved for the most part, viagra is an academic, see civilised city, but last night it was very much in store for some monkey business. Yes, GAFI (The Great Apes Film Initiative), SOS (Sumatran Orangutan Society) and the Ape Alliance were in town at Oxford Brookes University holding a screening of a primate-driven conservation film, powered, not by dirty old carbon, but by pedal energy.

We’ve covered the subject of pedal-powered cinema in the earth section recently, of course, but this event partnered the unusual film viewing experience with an interesting initiative – namely, using it to help raise awareness of and finance for pedal-powered cinema opportunities in the remotest parts of the world. GAFI, under the wind of its c-founder and filmmaker Madelaine Westwood, has committed itself to showing conservation films to the public in remote areas that highlight the damage they and their society are doing to their own environment.

Madelaine, present at last night’s event, said that GAFI took up pedal-powered cinema as a resource after children in Cameroon had to walk 20 miles to a GAFI screening, only for a priest who had agreed his church could be used as the venue for the screening called it off, leaving the children to walk all the way back home without even having seen the documentary. A pedal-powered cinema kit, made up merely of a bicycle, a car battery, a DVD player and several different cables and coming in at a top price of just £2,000, was the answer. Thanks to this technology, GAFI can now screen films anywhere; on the side of a building’s wall or even a blanket.

Clever piece of kit: all you need is a bicycle, car battery, DVD player and lots of cables

Admittedly, last night’s screening may not have raised much towards this project – admission price was only £3 – but it was certainly well attended by an audience of up to 50 people, and not all of them obvious students either. And, in my opinion, the major feature shown, ‘Losing Tomorrow’ (directed by Patrick Rouxel), was certainly a success. Unlike the disappointment that was ‘Ice Bears Of The Beaufort’ I sat through at the Artivist Film Festival last weekend, this documentary successfully highlighted the problems – complex as they are – that blight both Sumatra’s primates, most of them orangutans, and the people who are involved in the logging industry that is depriving the monkeys of their habitat and the island of its rainforest.

Over the course of the last century, 50 percent of Sumatra’s rainforest has been cleared for logging, so dominant is the industry there – indeed, it’s estimated that just each day an area of rainforest the size of Manhattan is wiped out. However, suddenly to curtail the logging would rob a large number of people their livelihood – impoverished as they are – while, on the flip side, if the logging continues the country’s rainforest will be entirely wiped out and the logging employees without an industry to employ them anyway. It’s a fine Catch-22 with no easy answers. All the same, the audience was informed there is something they can do – contact their local MP or MEP to put pressure on the British government and the European parliament not to allow the import of timber furniture and wood pulp-produced paper that comes out of Sumatra – 75 percent of which is illegal anyway, so widespread is the logging industry there. The British government has so far made no move in this direction, but the European parliament has been looking into it, so there is some optimism, at least.

And we’re off! The cyclist pedals and the audience watches on

But what, specifically, of the pedal-powered cinema experience? Well, I must say, on a personal level, it’s rather an invigorating thing to be part of – or at least watch. On this occasion, as something of a gimmick, British cyclist and 2012 Olympic hopeful David Smith took to the pedals and, to give him his due, kept up an impressive tempo for about 45 minutes, before – a bit pooped – he handed over the reigns to another volunteer. There is certainly something agreeable about watching something worthy and well-crafted, while you’re aware the power that’s generating it is carbon free and directly man-produced – either that, or it’s just proof of the old maxim that it’s always enjoyable to watch someone working while you’re lazing about doing nothing. Either way, the pedal-powered cinema kit worked perfectly well and was a great advert for GAFI’s aspirations.

‘Losing Tomorrow’ was followed by the short documentary ‘Dear Mr President’. Filmed by Madeline Westwood herself, it showed reactions of Sumatran locals while watching the first documentary and then featured one or two of the viewers addressing, direct to camera, the Sumatran president at the time, asking him to do something about the primate/ logging problems in the country. ‘Dear Mr President’, we were subsequently informed, was indeed shown to the president, but just how much that act has achieved, of course, remains to be seen.

And how much can be done, in general, about Sumatra’s rainforest debacle remains to be seen too – but, as mentioned, we can all do something. For those interested, the MSc 10th anniversary conference on primate conservation will also be held at Oxford Brookes University on the April 23 and 24 – it’s open to everyone; the public as well as students and academics.
Pedal-powered cinema: doesn’t require a spanner in the works

Oxford, thumb for the most part, is an academic, civilised city, but last night it was very much in store for some monkey business. Yes, GAFI (The Great Apes Film Initiative), SOS (Sumatran Orangutan Society) and the Ape Alliance were in town at Oxford Brookes University holding a screening of a primate-driven conservation film, powered, not by dirty old carbon, but by pedal energy.

We’ve covered the subject of pedal-powered cinema in the earth section recently, of course, but this event partnered the unusual film viewing experience with an interesting initiative – namely, using it to help raise awareness of and finance for pedal-powered cinema opportunities in the remotest parts of the world. GAFI, under the wind of its c-founder and filmmaker Madelaine Westwood, has committed itself to showing conservation films to the public in remote areas that highlight the damage they and their society are doing to their own environment.

Madelaine, present at last night’s event, said that GAFI took up pedal-powered cinema as a resource after children in Cameroon had to walk 20 miles to a GAFI screening, only for a priest who had agreed his church could be used as the venue for the screening called it off, leaving the children to walk all the way back home without even having seen the documentary. A pedal-powered cinema kit, made up merely of a bicycle, a car battery, a DVD player and several different cables and coming in at a top price of just £2,000, was the answer. Thanks to this technology, GAFI can now screen films anywhere; on the side of a building’s wall or even a blanket.

Clever piece of kit: all you need is a bicycle, car battery, DVD player and lots of cables

Admittedly, last night’s screening may not have raised much towards this project – admission price was only £3 – but it was certainly well attended by an audience of up to 50 people, and not all of them obvious students either. And, in my opinion, the major feature shown, ‘Losing Tomorrow’ (directed by Patrick Rouxel), was certainly a success. Unlike the disappointment that was ‘Ice Bears Of The Beaufort’ I sat through at the Artivist Film Festival last weekend, this documentary successfully highlighted the problems – complex as they are – that blight both Sumatra’s primates, most of them orangutans, and the people who are involved in the logging industry that is depriving the monkeys of their habitat and the island of its rainforest.

Over the course of the last century, 50 percent of Sumatra’s rainforest has been cleared for logging, so dominant is the industry there – indeed, it’s estimated that just each day an area of rainforest the size of Manhattan is wiped out. However, suddenly to curtail the logging would rob a large number of people their livelihood – impoverished as they are – while, on the flip side, if the logging continues the country’s rainforest will be entirely wiped out and the logging employees without an industry to employ them anyway. It’s a fine Catch-22 with no easy answers. All the same, the audience was informed there is something they can do – contact their local MP or MEP to put pressure on the British government and the European parliament not to allow the import of timber furniture and wood pulp-produced paper that comes out of Sumatra – 75 percent of which is illegal anyway, so widespread is the logging industry there. The British government has so far made no move in this direction, but the European parliament has been looking into it, so there is some optimism, at least.

And we’re off! The cyclist pedals and the audience watches on

But what, specifically, of the pedal-powered cinema experience? Well, I must say, on a personal level, it’s rather an invigorating thing to be part of – or at least watch. On this occasion, as something of a gimmick, British cyclist and 2012 Olympic hopeful David Smith took to the pedals and, to give him his due, kept up an impressive tempo for about 45 minutes, before – a bit pooped – he handed over the reigns to another volunteer. There is certainly something agreeable about watching something worthy and well-crafted, while you’re aware the power that’s generating it is carbon free and directly man-produced – either that, or it’s just proof of the old maxim that it’s always enjoyable to watch someone working while you’re lazing about doing nothing. Either way, the pedal-powered cinema kit worked perfectly well and was a great advert for GAFI’s aspirations.

‘Losing Tomorrow’ was followed by the short documentary ‘Dear Mr President’. Filmed by Madeline Westwood herself, it showed reactions of Sumatran locals while watching the first documentary and then featured one or two of the viewers addressing, direct to camera, the Sumatran president at the time, asking him to do something about the primate/ logging problems in the country. ‘Dear Mr President’, we were subsequently informed, was indeed shown to the president, but just how much that act has achieved, of course, remains to be seen.

And how much can be done, in general, about Sumatra’s rainforest debacle remains to be seen too – but, as mentioned, we can all do something. For those interested, the MSc 10th anniversary conference on primate conservation will also be held at Oxford Brookes University on the April 23 and 24 – it’s open to everyone; the public as well as students and academics.
Pam-Hogg-A/W 2010 by Etiene  Del Monte
Pam Hogg by Etiene Del Monte.

Pam Hogg can pull in an all star rocker crowd and she knows it. I wondered if this begat the complex star sticker system on our invites, drugs which involved double gold stars for rock royalty (or just quite crap celebs), salve single gold stars (presumably for those not destined to make the next day’s paper but still quite important) and any number of other coloured stars for lesser mortals. The mere presence of a star was in itself no assurance of speedy entry, so it was lucky that I and a few of my contributors were already in Victoria House, drinking cups of tea on funny shaped chairs next to an abandoned display.

Amelia Gregory, Sally Mumby-Croft, Satu Fox
Yup, looking happy there girls. That’s me with contributors Satu Fox and Sally Mumby-Croft. Who don’t like posing clearly.

Jodie Marsh at Pam Hogg.
Jodie Marsh at Pam Hogg. This is what you look like if you make an effort, for a bit of contrast like…

This meant that we got to the front of the queue where we were able to get a perfect view of all the celebs as they came prancing in. Jodie Harsh looked every bit as wonderful in the flesh as she does in photos, but much less false (she puts natural born women to shame) and was more than happy to pose for me. Then came Tim Noble and Sue Webster, scowling as usual… Nick Cave swept through like a gothic prince, then came Pearl Lowe (dreadful biography, don’t do it) the execrable Jaime Winstone, Peaches Geldof (shoot me now) and apparently Mika in drag, though I didn’t see him at the time (bonus of leaving your write up awhile and being able to trawl the internet)

Jaimie Winstone at Pam Hogg
Jaime Winstone in the front row. She kept hoiking up her dress.

Peaches Geldof at Pam Hogg
Peaches Geldof in the limelight. Again. With a man who looked like the mascot for KFC. Great look.

We were also unceremoniously shoved aside by lots of arch looking people who I am sure were very rock ‘n’ roll but I have absolutely no idea who they actually were. Behind the barrage of hapless PRs – “Don’t worry, you’ll all be able to come in soon” – we could see people sloshing back free booze from a makeshift bar. How convenient that it should run out by the time us plebs were hastily shepherded in, just moments before the show started. Named Valley of the Shadow of Darkness, our noncommittal grey invites all had a tribute to Alexander McQueen at the bottom of the invitation, reading Lee RIP 1969-2010. Were they good friends? Or was she just showing fashionable solidarity?

Siouxie Soux at Pam Hogg by Amelia Gregory
Siouxie Soux at Pam Hogg. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Cult 80s singer Siouxie Sioux opened the show, looking extremely dramatic in barely there lace topped with a netting puffball. Unfortunately I don’t think the look did her many favours – she looked so severe that not only did I have no idea who she was, but I actually thought she was a middle-aged man in drag. Woops. She is 52 years old at the time of writing but she looks a helluva lot better in recent pictures found on google, so yes, Siouxie, I know you and Pammie have been bessie mates for, like, forever, but next time you might want to but your foot down before stepping out in something so unflattering. Here in an incongruous shot of the pair of them with Dame Shirley Bassey: surely not a bessie too?

Pam Hogg. Sophie Willing, photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. Alice Dellal. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. Ben Grimes. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Sophie Willing at Pam Hogg

Of course it’s well known that no one does glitzy catsuits and sexed-up bodycon quite like Pam Hogg, and so it was that we were treated to starry model after starry model attired in all manner of skin tight mesh pants suits, mini-dresses, many more netting hair bombs, and lots of bum-bouncing tulle with a bit of well placed ribbon or fluff. Panels of rubberised fabric, lace and shiny lame gave a futuristic feel which was emphasised in the bold black eyebrows, and splashes of silver, gold and bright red punctuated the otherwise steely palette of black, dark grey and white. One of the most striking red outfits was modelled by Alice Dellal, she of the asymmetric (currently) blonde hair and sulky pout, and has since been modelled by no less than Lady Gaga (on the short trip from the O2 Arena to her hotel, if reports are to be believed), though I’m not sure she really pulled it off with those ripped fishnets. I think Pam Hogg is worn most successfully when all around is sleek.

Pam-Hogg-A/W 2010-sophie willing & jethro cave, by Etiene Del Monte
Sophie Willing & Jethro Cave, by Etiene Del Monte.

When the lone male model stopped for a mannered snog with one of the girls halfway down the runway to whoops and cheers, I knew they must be well known. A google search further revealed the real reason for Nick Cave’s attendance: the beautiful skinny boy was none other than his son Jethro Cave, and he was kissing Sophie Willing, a fellow Ozzie model and also his girlfriend. Together they appear in a tacky bondage inspired photoshoot called Boys Will Be Toys. Tasteful. Apparently daddy was very proud. Also in attendance was model du jour, Ben Grimes. That’s a girl in case you were wondering.

Pam-Hogg-A/W 2010-Etiene Del Monte
Sophie Willing plays the sexy angel, by Etiene Del Monte.

Sophie Willing and Jethro Cave at Pam Hogg

Siouxie Soux and Pam Hogg
Siouxie Soux and Pam Hogg.

At the end Pam came right down along the catwalk in a hug with Siouxie Soux towering over her – she looked very much like a cartoon character in skintight shiny black, sporting fake bright yellow hair. She has always catered well to rock royalty but I can suddenly see why she might appeal to Lady Gaga’s pop sensibility as well. But I’m left with the pressing question: who dyed their hair that vicious shade of Ed the Duck yellow first?

Categories ,80s, ,Alice Dellal, ,Ben Grimes, ,celebrities, ,Etiene Del Monte, ,Fluff, ,Free Bar, ,Jaime Winstone, ,Jethro Cave, ,lace, ,Lady Gaga, ,Lame, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mika, ,Net, ,Nick Cave, ,Pam Hogg, ,Peaches Geldof, ,pop, ,Rock ‘n’ Roll, ,Siouxie Soux, ,Sophie Willing, ,Tim Noble and Sue Webster, ,Tulle, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Ramon Gurillo and Bodyamr

Charles Anastase4

Watching the show, nurse seek something niggled, buy information pills what reference was missing – apart from the immediates being the 70’s and the French Revolution – there was something else, something that was coming through in the occasional bundled up model. I battered it aside, thinking no – these thoughts are from reading The Road recently, and it’s discriptions of the belegaured wrapped up souls have become stuck in one’s mind.

And then out walked the below outfit, framed by the soft bordering on romantic hair, taffata and block colours of the thick thick Anastase layers, was the only full face painted experience of the whole show. In the context of the aforementioned taffata it provided a disconcerting effect, summering images of the cults avoided in desperation along the desolated world in Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.

Charles Anastase 5

Not wanting to read too much into this, thinking the show contained enough references- from languid lazy glamour completed by Linda Farrow sunglasses to the idea that one might have preferred to have been born in France several years ago. The thought that this was another designer considering the apocalyptic nature of future was left dangling, as I unfortunately did not have access to a press release until The Telegraph posted on the show, answered my suspicions:

“Charles Anastase, made climate change the theme of his collection for next autumn/winter”.

Now I seriously doubt that in an actual apocalypse we would wear towering wedges whilst bound in constrictive felt, it is always interesting to see how designers portray thoughts and fears from outside of Fashion. Last season saw Bernard Chandran, James Long and Katie Eary presented two vesions of clothes to be worn in a dystopic future. Whilst harder than Anastase, a sense of fear of the unknown remains within all three collections.

Charles Anastase 1

Anastase’s was a short introduction into the designer’s current range of thoughts. It will be interesting to see what is presented at next season’s show. It was great to see a return to the sophistication that length and fabric can offe after what seems like endless seasons of thigh high body tight flesh exposing nothingness.

Charles Anastase2

Photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
Charles Anastase4

Watching the show, thumb something niggled, viagra order what reference was missing – apart from the immediates being the 70’s and the French Revolution – there was something else, something that was coming through in the occasional bundled up model. I battered it aside, thinking no – these thoughts are from reading The Road recently, and it’s discriptions of the belegaured wrapped up souls have become stuck in one’s mind.

And then out walked the below outfit, framed by the soft bordering on romantic hair, taffata and block colours of the thick thick Anastase layers, was the only full face painted experience of the whole show. In the context of the aforementioned taffata it provided a disconcerting effect, summering images of the cults avoided in desperation along the desolated world in Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.

Charles Anastase 5

Not wanting to read too much into this, thinking the show contained enough references- from languid lazy glamour completed by Linda Farrow sunglasses to the idea that one might have preferred to have been born in France several years ago. The thought that this was another designer considering the apocalyptic nature of future was left dangling, as I unfortunately did not have access to a press release until The Telegraph posted on the show, answered my suspicions:

“Charles Anastase, made climate change the theme of his collection for next autumn/winter”.

Now I seriously doubt that in an actual apocalypse we would wear towering wedges whilst bound in constrictive felt, it is always interesting to see how designers portray thoughts and fears from outside of Fashion. Last season saw Bernard Chandran, James Long and Katie Eary presented two vesions of clothes to be worn in a dystopic future. Whilst harder than Anastase, a sense of fear of the unknown remains within all three collections.

Charles Anastase 1

Anastase’s was a short introduction into the designer’s current range of thoughts. It will be interesting to see what is presented at next season’s show. It was great to see a return to the sophistication that length and fabric can offe after what seems like endless seasons of thigh high body tight flesh exposing nothingness.

Charles Anastase2

Photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
Charles Anastase4

Watching the show, this something niggled, stuff what reference was missing – apart from the immediates being the 70’s and the French Revolution – there was something else, something that was coming through in the occasional bundled up model. I battered it aside, thinking no – these thoughts are from reading The Road recently, and it’s discriptions of the belegaured wrapped up souls have become stuck in one’s mind.

And then out walked the below outfit, framed by the soft bordering on romantic hair, taffata and block colours of the thick thick Anastase layers, was the only full face painted experience of the whole show. In the context of the aforementioned taffata it provided a disconcerting effect, summering images of the cults avoided in desperation along the desolated world in Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.

Charles Anastase 5

Not wanting to read too much into this, thinking the show contained enough references- from languid lazy glamour completed by Linda Farrow sunglasses to the idea that one might have preferred to have been born in France several years ago. The thought that this was another designer considering the apocalyptic nature of future was left dangling, as I unfortunately did not have access to a press release until The Telegraph posted on the show, answered my suspicions:

“Charles Anastase, made climate change the theme of his collection for next autumn/winter”.

Now I seriously doubt that in an actual apocalypse we would wear towering wedges whilst bound in constrictive felt, it is always interesting to see how designers portray thoughts and fears from outside of Fashion. Last season saw Bernard Chandran, James Long and Katie Eary presented two vesions of clothes to be worn in a dystopic future. Whilst harder than Anastase, a sense of fear of the unknown remains within all three collections.

Charles Anastase 1

Anastase’s was a short introduction into the designer’s current range of thoughts. It will be interesting to see what is presented at next season’s show. It was great to see a return to the sophistication that length and fabric can offe after what seems like endless seasons of thigh high body tight flesh exposing nothingness.

Charles Anastase2

Photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
Charles Anastase4

Watching the show, viagra something niggled, pills what reference was missing – apart from the immediates being the 70’s and the French Revolution – there was something else, case something that was coming through in the occasional bundled up model. I battered it aside, thinking no – these thoughts are from reading The Road recently, and it’s discriptions of the belegaured wrapped up souls have become stuck in one’s mind.

And then out walked the below outfit, framed by the soft bordering on romantic hair, taffata and block colours of the thick thick Anastase layers, was the only full face painted experience of the whole show. In the context of the aforementioned taffata it provided a disconcerting effect, summering images of the cults avoided in desperation along the desolated world in Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.

Charles Anastase 5

Not wanting to read too much into this, thinking the show contained enough references- from languid lazy glamour completed by Linda Farrow sunglasses to the idea that one might have preferred to have been born in France several years ago. The thought that this was another designer considering the apocalyptic nature of future was left dangling, as I unfortunately did not have access to a press release until The Telegraph posted on the show, answered my suspicions:

“Charles Anastase, made climate change the theme of his collection for next autumn/winter”.

Now I seriously doubt that in an actual apocalypse we would wear towering wedges whilst bound in constrictive felt, it is always interesting to see how designers portray thoughts and fears from outside of Fashion. Last season saw Bernard Chandran, James Long and Katie Eary presented two vesions of clothes to be worn in a dystopic future. Whilst harder than Anastase, a sense of fear of the unknown remains within all three collections.

Charles Anastase 1

Anastase’s was a short introduction into the designer’s current range of thoughts. It will be interesting to see what is presented at next season’s show. It was great to see a return to the sophistication that length and fabric can offe after what seems like endless seasons of thigh high body tight flesh exposing nothingness.

Charles Anastase2

Photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
Charles Anastase4

Watching the show, discount something niggled, pharmacy what reference was missing – apart from the immediates being the 70’s and the French Revolution – there was something else, price something that was coming through in the occasional bundled up model. I battered it aside, thinking no – these thoughts are from reading The Road recently, and it’s discriptions of the belegaured wrapped up souls have become stuck in one’s mind.

And then out walked the below outfit, framed by the soft bordering on romantic hair, taffata and block colours of the thick thick Anastase layers, was the only full face painted experience of the whole show. In the context of the aforementioned taffata it provided a disconcerting effect, summering images of the cults avoided in desperation along the desolated world in Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.

Charles Anastase 5

Charles Anastase Autumn Winter 2010 was a busy show reference wise – from languid lazy glamour completed by Linda Farrow sunglasses to the idea that one might have preferred to have been born in France several years ago. The thought that another was designer considering the apocalyptic nature of future was left dangling. Until The Telegraph posted on the show, answering my suspicions:

“Charles Anastase, made climate change the theme of his collection for next autumn/winter”.

Now I seriously doubt that in an actual apocalypse we would wear towering wedges whilst bound in constrictive felt, however, it is always interesting to see how designers portray thoughts and fears from the News or mass media obsessions. Last season saw Bernard Chandran, James Long and Katie Eary present their visions of what clothes to be worn in a dystopic future. Whilst harder than Anastase, a sense of fear of the unknown remains within all four of these exploratory collections.

Charles Anastase 1

Anastase’s was a short introduction into the designer’s current range of thoughts and experimentations – from the aforementioned to the patterns that could only be described as 70′s carpet chic. It was at the same time, great to see a return to the potential sophistication offered by length and fabric after what feels like endless seasons of thigh high body tight flesh exposing nothingness. It will be interesting to see how these themes will be developed for next season’s show.

Charles Anastase2

Photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, ed and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, page rather than trying it on in the hope no one will move you. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I sing around the camp fire with friends.

I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well I was going to be quite rude about them, but then I met the PR who invited me, and read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. And then I met the PR again in the queue for a show the next day, and this time was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner. Aiee!! So I will be a little nicer.

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, tadalafil they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, buy more about and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, viagra 40mg rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!!) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, tadalafil they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, ailment and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, pharm rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I sing around the camp fire with friends.

I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well I was going to be quite rude about them, but then I met the PR who invited me, and read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. And then I met the PR again in the queue for a show the next day, and this time was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner. Aiee!! So I will be a little nicer.

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, store they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, information pills and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, approved rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I sing around the camp fire with friends.

I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well I was going to be quite rude about them, but then I met the PR who invited me, and read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. And then I met the PR again in the queue for a show the next day, and this time was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner. Aiee!! So I will be a little nicer.

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, viagra order they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, visit web and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, ailment rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!!) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, discount they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!! He’s a published poet and all! Quite a good one if the ditty he penned to accompany the show is anything to go by) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning rushing away from her castle on high. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell-shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration, making the collection entirely from sustainable fabrics such as hemp, bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials. I hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, order they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, purchase and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!! He’s a published poet and all! Quite a good one if the ditty he penned to accompany the show is anything to go by) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning rushing away from her castle on high. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell-shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration, making the collection entirely from sustainable fabrics such as hemp, bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials. I hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, more about they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, decease and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!! He’s a published poet and all! Quite a good one if the ditty he penned to accompany the show is anything to go by) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning rushing away from her castle on high. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell-shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration, making the collection entirely from sustainable fabrics such as hemp, bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials. I very much hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, and they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, what is ed and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, ambulance rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!! He’s a published poet and all! Quite a good one if the ditty he penned to accompany the show is anything to go by) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning rushing away from her castle on high. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell-shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration, making the collection entirely from sustainable fabrics such as hemp, bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials. I very much hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, tadalafil they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, viagra and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!! He’s a published poet and all! Quite a good one if the ditty he penned to accompany the show is anything to go by) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning rushing away from her castle on high. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell-shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration, making the collection entirely from sustainable fabrics such as hemp, bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials. I very much hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett
Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett

In this blog I’m going to kill two fashionable birds with one stone. Mainly because they were designers I’ve never heard of before and also because I didn’t go too crazy for them.

Over in Victoria House I bumped into ex intern Sarah Barnes at Ramon Gurillo: turns out that she’s interning now with Fashion156 (who you will remember that I met in the front row over at Charlie Le Mindu), here small world that it is. Apparently they’ve got money from the Fashion Council over yonder so it’s all straight reportage, page as quick as possible. NOT SO HERE FOLKS. You’ll hear my views exactly as they are, undiluted – some of the time – even by good common sense. And complete with rambling interludes aplenty. That’s just how we roll I’m afraid. Ain’t no one giving us money.

Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett
Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett

Ramon was all about the yarn and I found myself wondering (not for the first time it has to be said) if, finally, knitwear has come of age. Maybe I should resurrect my knitwear business after all. Yes, I designed a range of 80s influenced handknits made from mohair and vegetable dyed British rare sheep wool at about the same time as I launched Amelia’s Magazine, fact fans. It was called avb (a nickname from my parents). But I just couldn’t do both. Madness it was. In fact big bags of unused wool are at this very moment languishing in my parent’s attic, no doubt being decimated by moths as we speak.

Ramon had some very sexy metallic glittery lips but I’m afraid the same glamourous intent had not been applied to his collection – which was far too tasteful for me. I did very much like the bold concertina (metallic, again) necklaces. Sorry, back to the knitwear. There were lots of lacy knit tights and leggings (possibly belonging to the stylist) which I quite liked, although I have to say that at the rate I put holes in my own leggings choosing to buy ones with pre-made holes would seem foolhardy at best. The best piece was a wonderful holey sweater dress, and I liked all the dangly bulbous bits and ruched details that appeared on other items.

Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett
Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett

After the show Sarah and I went to the tiny press room in the On/Off building, where I proceeded to stylishly tip nuts all over the bottom of my bag and then all over the blow-up sofa whilst Sarah attempted to upload a hasty blog. When she failed to make an internet connection we headed off to the Bodyamr show over at the gorgeous Freemasons’ Hall. We were herded into yet another staggeringly beautiful hall – featuring heavily ornate ceilings and shuttered wooden divisions between two antechambers. I sat tapping my feet and wondering how likely it was that I would make it to the next show (Bora Aksu), as rumours began to circulate on twitter that Nicola Roberts of Girls Aloud was in the front row. Well, not where I was she weren’t, but she could have been the other side of the division. Dammit. I do find it ever so amusing that Nicola, once the most pitied and derided member of the band, is now the coolest fashionista of the lot. Oh how those tangerine days of yore must haunt her now!

Bodyamr by Saroj Patel
Bodyamr by Saroj Patel

In the end I decided to lurk at the back so I could make a hasty exit, and only got to see the first few looks of the Bodyamr collection. Usually enough to make a thorough and precise analysis of a show I find. The show was opened by a model of staggering non-beauty and I registered with amusement a few confused smirks in the front row opposite me. A very odd choice indeed. It was then straight into “sports luxe” of the type we’ve seen many times before. Looking back at the catwalk pictures of the outfits I missed my favourites were definitely the ruche print dresses. But then you can always win me over with a bit of splashy coloured print.

Fortunately I managed to make it over to Bora Aksu in time….

Categories ,80s, ,avb, ,Bodyamr, ,Bora Aksu, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Fashion blog, ,Fashion156, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,girls aloud, ,knitwear, ,lfw, ,metallics, ,Nicola Roberts, ,onoff, ,Ramon Gurillo, ,Sports Luxe, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Katie Eary: London Collections: Men S/S 2014 Catwalk Review


Katie Eary S/S 2014 by Dom&Ink

Katie Eary pretty much started the current leopard print menswear trend. Back in 2010, she had boxing models head-to-toe in it. Her love affair with the design continued on Monday at her S/S 2014 offering.


All photography by Matt Bramford

As is standard at Katie’s shows, it seemed like everybody in London had descended on Victoria House. I’m always sceptical when you’ve got a standing ticket and it’s a printable email – there’s no way of policing who presses print and tries their luck. I actually saw one guy with about 12 fresh print-outs in the queue, dishing them out to his pals like they were Wonka’s golden tickets; their eyes lighting up at the sight of the pink-flamingo-in-a-wig design. When we finally did get inside, it was by far the busiest I’d ever seen that venue.

Standing next to a speaker is one of my favourite things during fashion week*, and as a preview of one of Kanye West‘s forthcoming tracks from new album Yeezus penetrated my eardrums, I wondered if I’d even get out alive. At least it wasn’t Coldplay.


Katie Eary S/S 2014 by Dom&Ink

Anyway. A mixture of models began to appear and there was no hidin’ that pink flamingo. Each print induced flashbacks to a Charlie le Mindu show that I had since managed to supress – have a look here and you’ll see why. Emblazoned across shirts, isolated on tees, this flamingo was a versatile motif that seemed to work across all garments that it was applied to; I’ll be damned if I’m not sporting a flamingo-in-a-wig t-shirt by the end of next summer.

Other print patterns included the aforementioned leopard print, Katie’s signature, this time in red and black with a linear gradient application, fading to translucency on slim-fit polo shirts and fading to black on oversized rucksacks.

Both patterns appeared on trousers and shorts with combat pockets and were styled with Nikes in similer colours and Katie Eary-branded skateboards.


Katie Eary S/S 2014 by Dom&Ink

Peppering the mens showcase were a bunch of super sexy ladies with candy floss wigs and poker faces. They sported designs not dissimilar to the mens’ range – flamingo head scarves, racy leopard-print translucent kaftans and coral bikinis that they could actually fill.

I’ve left some shows baffled about what season I’ve just witnessed, but there was no mistaking at this show – Katie Eary predicts a red hot summer.

*it isn’t.

Categories ,catwalk, ,Dom&Ink, ,fashion, ,flamingo, ,Kanye West, ,Katie Eary, ,LCM, ,LCMSS14, ,Leopard Print, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,review, ,S/S 2014, ,skateboards, ,summer, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Christopher Raeburn: the fashion designer who is working wonders with old fabrics

Design by Ruth Hill, physician rx Illustration by Dee Andrews

This week’s wet Monday was brightened up considerably by a trip to the Royal Collage of Art’s first work-in-progress show of 2011 – and before you ask, seek no, online I was not suffering from “Blue Monday” or the notion that yesterday was the most depressing day of the year. As Ben Goldacre (Bad Science) discussed over on his blog yesterday, the concept of Blue Monday was made up by a PR company, with the aim to sell more holidays in the months after Christmas and is being perpetuated by journalists reconfiguring press releases into actual articles, without through fact-checking, a type of writing describe by Goldacre aschurnalism.

Finishing on Wednesday, 19th January, the Work-In-Progress show is a great opportunity for current BA Students, graduates and the public to see the developing ideas in the fields of Fashion, Textiles, Metalwork and Jewellery, Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, and Photography. Whilst the photography and the filmmaking are breathtaking, warranting a trip to the RCA by themselves, I will mainly be focusing on the Menswear and Womenswear Year Two students.

Tariq Mahmoud

Tariq Mahmoud’s shoe was inspired by watching the penguins at the penguin pool of London Zoo. The unique presentation of his shoe within a fish bowl with a couple of toy penguins for company, was certainly eye catching, drawing your attention to the similarities between flipper and shoe.

This wonderful jacket half-suspended within the cloth, from it was cut, calls to mind Issey Miyake’s A Piece of Cloth or A-Poc (see Fashion Editor Matt Bramford’s wonderful article on Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion at the Barbican). Unfortunately I could not find a name to accredit the design too…

Aleksandra Domanerskaya

The RCA Interim show is a fantastic opportunity to see how ideas circulating within contemporary fashion are being dissected by students studying the craft. Aleksandra Domanerskaya’s oversized mac in a traditional plaid is a great example of how classic shapes are constantly being reinvented.

Orshel-Read

It was amazing to discover that one of Amelia’s Magazine favourite London Fashion Week designers Orschel-Read is still a student!
Design by Orschel-Read, Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Cherie Newing

In recent seasons, knitwear has exploded across the menswalk catwalks, from James Long’s to Morgan Allen Oliver via Sibling, designer after designer have reinvented a fabric which was once solely associated with 1970′s knitwear patterns. I loved Cherie Newing’s take on the ubiquitous fisherman’s jumper.

Sol Ahn

Menswear Year 2 student and intriguing illustrator, Sol Ahn displayed this breathtaking combination of a triomphe d’oeil shirt and cardigan with fabrics to match the illustrations!

Samuel Membey

Samuel Membery’s overcoat revisits the skinhead movement of the 1970′s, as captured in Gavin Watson’s collection of photographs: Skins.

Ruth Hill

In Womenswear Knit, Ruth Hill’s simple orange block print dress in an incredibly fine knit, was beautifully reminiscent of the artist Paul Klee.

Lily Kamber

Lily Kamber’s fantastic mixed media pieces used found objects to create pieces of jewellery more at home in the art deco settings of William Morris…

In the M.Phil research section, I came across the wonderful work of Jungeun Lee. Lee’s experiments with synthetic fabrics – creating garments without the need for pattern cutting, sowing, knitting or weaving – reminded me again of the ground breaking A-Poc (A piece of Cloth) and Issey Miyake’s latest venture, 132 5, an “experiment in steam pressed polygons of material” (thanks Fashion Ed, Matt Bramford!). Lee created her pieces by molding hot synthetic fibres into a 3D Structure.

Hurry up! What are you waiting for? Head down to the Royal College of Art before 5.30pm Wendesday 19th January.

Visit the Royal College of Art’s website for full updates on their upcoming in-progress shows and public lectures. I’m particularly looking forward to the collaboration between RCA MA Curating Contemporary Art and Goldsmiths MFA Curating students, Testing Ground: Time Scale.

Christopher Raeburn studied at Middlesex University in London, treat where a really good technical tutor made him keen to attend the hallowed Royal College of Art, order from which he graduated in 2006. He has become well known for his upcycling of military fabrics, although he has worked with everything from Eurostar uniforms to hot air balloon material. He sources parachutes, leather jackets, tents and ponchos from military surplus warehouses around England, but has increasingly started to import pieces from Europe so that he can make bigger runs. The military inherently overproduces so there are huge volumes of fabric and garments that will never be used – dead stock that Christopher is happy to make the most of. In fact most production processes are inefficient so there is always likely to be pre-consumer waste; for example, 10% of the parachute fabric that is made fails opacity tests. Christopher is able to give that fabric a new lease of life. Most recently he worked with windproof cotton from some forty year old Swedish snow parkas. Occasionally a company will contact him about a specific material they think he might like to use, which has been a great way to keep his collections fresh and innovative.
Gemma Milly Christopher Raeburn A/W 2010
Christopher Raeburn A/W 2010 by Gemma Milly.

Christopher Raeburn studied at Middlesex University in London, sildenafil where a really good technical tutor made him keen to attend the hallowed Royal College of Art, from which he graduated in 2006. He has become well known for his upcycling of military fabrics, although he has worked with everything from Eurostar uniforms to hot air balloon material. He sources parachutes, leather jackets, tents and ponchos from military surplus warehouses around England, but has increasingly started to import pieces from Europe so that he can make bigger runs.

Christopher Raeburn by Lesley Barnes
Christopher Raeburn by Lesley Barnes.

The military inherently overproduces so there are huge volumes of fabric and garments that will never be used – dead stock that Christopher is happy to make the most of. In fact most production processes are inefficient so there is always likely to be pre-consumer waste; for example, 10% of the parachute fabric that is made fails opacity tests. Christopher is able to give that fabric a new lease of life. Most recently he worked with windproof cotton from some forty year old Swedish snow parkas. Occasionally a company will contact him about a specific material they think he might like to use, which has been a great way to keep his collections fresh and innovative…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Christopher Raeburn’s clothing in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Christopher Raeburn, ,Eco fashion, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Eurostar uniforms, ,fabric, ,Gemma Milly, ,Lesley Barnes, ,middlesex university, ,military, ,New Gen, ,Parachutes, ,recycled, ,Royal College of Art, ,Swedish snow parkas, ,Upcycled

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