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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Louise Amstrup (again)

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Now, stomach I was going to write something really nice about how underrated Louise Amstrup is… how she deserves wider recognition and a bigger audience. The clothes were understated but clever. I enjoyed the show.

And then, story whilst I was eating my tea last night I finally decided to go through the goodie bag, mind and discovered a big promotional catalogue for a fur brand. Missed the fur piece – this was the spring/summer collection for cripes sake, I wasn’t looking for fur. Must have tuned it out but Louise sneaked one past me. So far so not particularly acceptable, but I have grown to accept that the odd bit of fur will creep into the collections of those who aren’t bothered by its production or ethics. And inevitably its presence will have been sponsored, for what up and coming designer has the readies to splash on dead animals reincarnated as extra curricular human hides?

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

So Louise quite likes her fur. I think we’ve got the point, but was that it? Oh no…. I was in for a much bigger treat. And one that was guaranteed to hack off anyone who is remotely anti-fur. I know, why not wipe out a whole group of possibly complimentary press by agreeing to give away A FUCKING FUR KEYRING. So there I am, munching on my dinner, when I unsuspectingly open a little pouch, and I kid you not, out flopped the tail of a fucking mink. Slithered right onto my table like it was still half alive. FUCKING EWWWWWW. Why?! Why antagonise a whole section of press?

So. With that over with, enough of the fucks and on with the show… Well, under attended as I’ve said, but then it was Sunday and it’s always a little slow and sleepy, attracting only the most hardcore fashionistas.

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Dewy eyed models strode into the lights in a selection of high waisted trousers, shorts or floaty print dresses accessorised with carefully layered bib like kercheifs and protected with wide brimmed hats and floaty scarves. The colour palette was muted – predominately sand, beige, cream and dusty purples and blues. This collection was apparently inspired by the vast expanses of the American desert *what the fuck do I need a fur coat there for? I’d be blooming sweltering* Sorry woops thought I was going to steer clear of the swearing there for a moment, but I seem to have developed temporary Tourettes.

And I really enjoyed Hilary Alexander’s enthusiastic whooping as the models hit the catwalk for a final turn, but I can’t remember what the track was I’m afraid because I was too busy smiling at Hilary’s outfit… let’s just say I’m very glad to know that one is never too old for leopard print leggings. And whilst I’m on the subject of Hilary – have you seen her twitter feed? The woman is even more celeb obsessed than the rest of us. The woman is a fucking legend. Oh dear, there I go again.

Hilary-Alexander-London-Fashion-Week-S-S-2011-Antonia-Parker-Amelias-Magazine-A
Hilary Alexander in her superfly leopard print leggings, by Antonia Parker.

So, how would I sum up? Well, next season stay away from the fur sponsorship Louise. But do say yes to Dr.Hauschka again. Did I mention that the goodie bag was very full, and I was decidedly more keen on the offerings from this “cult, biodynamic, pioneering skincare brand.”

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Now, view I was going to write something really nice about how underrated Louise Amstrup is… how she deserves wider recognition and a bigger audience. The clothes were understated but clever. I enjoyed the show.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

And then, stomach whilst I was eating my tea last night I finally decided to go through the goodie bag, treatment and discovered a big promotional catalogue for a fur brand. Missed the fur piece – this was the spring/summer collection for cripes sake, I wasn’t looking for fur. Must have tuned it out but Louise sneaked one past me. So far so not particularly acceptable, but I have grown to accept that the odd bit of fur will creep into the collections of those who aren’t bothered by its production or ethics. And inevitably its presence will have been sponsored, for what up and coming designer has the readies to splash on dead animals reincarnated as extra curricular human hides?

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Was this the fur coat? Hard to tell really.

Hilary-Alexander-London-Fashion-Week-S-S-2011-Antonia-Parker-Amelias-Magazine-A
Hilary Alexander in her superfly leopard print leggings, by Antonia Parker.

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Now, discount I was going to write something really nice about how underrated Louise Amstrup is… how she deserves wider recognition and a bigger audience. The clothes were understated but clever. I enjoyed the show.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

And then, cheapest whilst I was eating my tea last night I finally decided to go through the goodie bag, viagra 40mg and discovered a big promotional catalogue for a fur brand. Missed the fur piece – this was the spring/summer collection for cripes sake, I wasn’t looking for fur. Must have tuned it out but Louise sneaked one past me. So far so not particularly acceptable, but I have grown to accept that the odd bit of fur will creep into the collections of those who aren’t bothered by its production or ethics. And inevitably its presence will have been sponsored, for what up and coming designer has the readies to splash on dead animals reincarnated as extra curricular human hides?

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Was this the fur coat? Hard to tell really.

Hilary-Alexander-London-Fashion-Week-S-S-2011-Antonia-Parker-Amelias-Magazine-A
Hilary Alexander in her superfly leopard print leggings, by Antonia Parker.

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Now, ailment I was going to write something really nice about how underrated Louise Amstrup is… how she deserves wider recognition and a bigger audience. The clothes were understated but clever. I enjoyed the show.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

And then, viagra 100mg whilst I was eating my tea last night I finally decided to go through the goodie bag, and discovered a big promotional catalogue for a fur brand. Missed the fur piece – this was the spring/summer collection for cripes sake, I wasn’t looking for fur. Must have tuned it out but Louise sneaked one past me. So far so not particularly acceptable, but I have grown to accept that the odd bit of fur will creep into the collections of those who aren’t bothered by its production or ethics. And inevitably its presence will have been sponsored, for what up and coming designer has the readies to splash on dead animals reincarnated as extra curricular human hides?

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Was this the fur coat? Hard to tell really.

And I really enjoyed Hilary Alexander‘s enthusiastic whooping as the models hit the catwalk for a final turn, but I can’t remember what the track was I’m afraid because I was too busy smiling at Hilary’s outfit… let’s just say I’m very glad to know that one is never too old for leopard print leggings. And whilst I’m on the subject of Hilary – have you seen her twitter feed? The woman is even more celeb obsessed than the rest of us. The woman is a fucking legend. Oh dear, there I go again.

Hilary-Alexander-London-Fashion-Week-S-S-2011-Antonia-Parker-Amelias-Magazine-A
Hilary Alexander in her superfly leopard print leggings, by Antonia Parker.

So, how would I sum up? Well, next season: less fur, more Dr.Hauschka please. Did I mention that the goodie bag was very full, and I was decidedly more keen on the offerings from this “cult, biodynamic, pioneering skincare brand.”
Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Now, viagra I was going to write something really nice about how underrated Louise Amstrup is… how she deserves wider recognition and a bigger audience. The clothes were understated but clever. I enjoyed the show.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

And then, whilst I was eating my tea last night I finally decided to go through the goodie bag, and discovered a big promotional catalogue for a fur brand. Missed the fur piece – this was the spring/summer collection for cripes sake, I wasn’t looking for fur. Must have tuned it out but Louise sneaked one past me. So far so not particularly acceptable, but I have grown to accept that the odd bit of fur will creep into the collections of those who aren’t bothered by its production or ethics. And inevitably its presence will have been sponsored, for what up and coming designer has the readies to splash on dead animals reincarnated as extra curricular human hides?

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Was this the fur coat? Hard to tell really.

Hilary-Alexander-London-Fashion-Week-S-S-2011-Antonia-Parker-Amelias-Magazine-A
Hilary Alexander in her superfly leopard print leggings, by Antonia Parker.

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Now, side effects I was going to write something really nice about how underrated Louise Amstrup is… how she deserves wider recognition and a bigger audience. The clothes were understated but clever. I enjoyed the show.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

And then, order whilst I was eating my tea last night I finally decided to go through the goodie bag, and discovered a big promotional catalogue for a fur brand. Missed the fur piece – this was the spring/summer collection for cripes sake, I wasn’t looking for fur. Must have tuned it out but Louise sneaked one past me. So far so not particularly acceptable, but I have grown to accept that the odd bit of fur will creep into the collections of those who aren’t bothered by its production or ethics. And inevitably its presence will have been sponsored, for what up and coming designer has the readies to splash on dead animals reincarnated as extra curricular human hides?

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Was this the fur coat? Hard to tell really.

Hilary-Alexander-London-Fashion-Week-S-S-2011-Antonia-Parker-Amelias-Magazine-A
Hilary Alexander in her superfly leopard print leggings, by Antonia Parker.

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Now, approved I was going to write something really nice about how underrated Louise Amstrup is… how she deserves wider recognition and a bigger audience. The clothes were understated but clever. I enjoyed the show.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

And then, ed whilst I was eating my tea last night I finally decided to go through the goodie bag, malady and discovered a big promotional catalogue for a fur brand. Missed the fur piece – this was the spring/summer collection for cripes sake, I wasn’t looking for fur. Must have tuned it out but Louise sneaked one past me. So far so not particularly acceptable, but I have grown to accept that the odd bit of fur will creep into the collections of those who aren’t bothered by its production or ethics. And inevitably its presence will have been sponsored, for what up and coming designer has the readies to splash on dead animals reincarnated as extra curricular human hides?

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Louise Amstrup by Stephanie Parr.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Was this the fur coat? Hard to tell really.

Hilary-Alexander-London-Fashion-Week-S-S-2011-Antonia-Parker-Amelias-Magazine-A
Hilary Alexander in her superfly leopard print leggings, by Antonia Parker.

Louise Amstrup SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Illustration by Kayleigh Bluck

As I was writing this, story Amelia’s review and photos from the same show popped up on twitter. Fortunately I did not end up unwittingly taking home a mink tail keying and cannot fathom why one would include that in a goody bag. I have to admit that the mink coat slipped past me as well, but bad goody bag gifts aside, here is my review of the show.

The queue was the most disorganized I’ve seen all week but the most amazing guy with a flat cap and matching cockney accent made up for it as he pulled people from the hustle and bustle and ushered them in. His haphazard methods have probably won my favour because I seemed to fit his undecipherable criteria of people who could come in.

I sat perched on the end of a row (always a good place for photos, even if you’re not in the front row), where I had a vantage point allowing me to ogle at two items whilst I waited for the show to begin. 1- Hilary Alexander’s great leopard print leggings on my left (great illustration in Amelia’s write up) and 2- an amazing pair of spike encrusted stilettos being worn on my right.

Without being bland, the Louise Amstrup collection is an entirely wearable S/S 2011 wardrobe (except for the beekeeper/sahara desert style hats). Oversized mens shirts, loose wide-leg trousers and paneled baggy dresses were all great keep-cool-in-hot-sun clothes. She has hit the nail on the head with clothes that are easy to move around in, are made from light fabrics and that look nice – seems simple, but somehow every summer I end up wearing things that leave me feeling decidedly UN-cooled.

Illustration by Kellie Black

Basic mute colours and the occasional shot of dark print made up the palette; the creams, pale yellows, blues (I refuse to say baby blue) and light pinks created a subtle but not ice creamy feel. From the press release I have learnt that this reflects the collections attempt to marry together Sissy Spacek’s innocence in the film Badlands (1973)with Marriane Sagebrecht’s character in Bagdad Café (1987). So, a mixture of feminine darkness and purity. The second theme of a traveller in the desert was most evident with the dark print (feminine darkness!), which was of thunderstorms and lightning in the night sky. Actually my favourite piece was the floor length dress made entirely of the print in question.

Illustration by Kayleigh Bluck

The mark of a well established designer is a key technique or stylistic flair evident in all their collections. As Basso & Brooke are notorious for their eclectic mixing of prints, Louise Amstrup collections are becoming increasingly known for featuring rather well placed fabric paneling. The S/S 2011 pieces use panels of leather, framed with frayed cotton, in strips on both the skirts, the trousers and the dresses. Layering too, was used extensively on the skirts, again using frayed cotton edging for a more delicate appearance on some of the lighter pieces.

Written by Florence Massey on Monday September 20th, 2010 9:37 pm

Categories ,Baggy Clothes, ,Hilary Alexander, ,illustration, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Amstrup, ,Muted Colours, ,print, ,S/S 2011, ,Sissy Spacek, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Michael Van Der Ham

Illustration by Amy Martino

At the Bodyamr show, viagra 100mg the celebrities nearly outshone the clothes. Lily Allen, adiposity Nick Grimshaw, Keisha from the Sugababes and the TV Chef Gizzi Erskine all waltzed in past us mere mortals crammed outside the Vauxhall Fashion Scout hall, (made more manic by the decision to cram two presentations into one catwalk show) cue much jostling and craning of necks by my fellow bloggers to get a good photo.

Once inside, the celeb fest continued – the press release reeled off a list of starlets who loved Bodyamr (Florence Welch, Beyonce, and Cheryl Cole dontcha know), and the crowd whispered about Daisy Lowe opening the show and Kanye West’s girlfriend Amber Rose closing. The scrum for goodie bags as everyone sat down added to the excitement – a recent collaboration with Rixos hotels meant a rather bizarre mix of hotel freebies and glossy brochures was under every seat.

As for the clothes – Bodyamr do a fine line in creating flattering, skin-tight looks for powerful women (hence the appeal for starlets). True to form, their inspiration for S/S 2011 was a cross between Josephine Baker wrapping jewels ‘seductively around her naked body’ and a 90s supermodel. It was a fun, glamorous collection, with pieces that wouldn’t look out of place in Studio 54 (sequins, kaftan style dresses, jersey, Grecian draping), a nice dose of body con and some sheer chiffon dresses printed with art deco jewels (there’s the naked Josephine Baker for you). There was even some slouchy, slinky daywear amongst the goddess dresses tailor-made for the red carpet. And yes, Daisy looked amazing – I just hope people weren’t too star-struck to notice her beautifully draped white jersey jumpsuit.

Illustration by Krister Selin

I was very excited to see what NEWGEN winner Michael Van Der Ham would have in store this season at his first solo show. He’s quickly rising up the fashion ranks – he only bloody graduated a year ago, erectile for God’s sake, more about and it was inevitable that this was going to be a good ‘un.

A quick cycle across Waterloo Bridge took me to the erstwhile Eurostar Terminal at Waterloo Station. London Fashion Week is SO much better by bike. Despite the odd trauma here and there, specific to my unlucky self, to be able to zip between the many venues without relying on public transport is a Godsend.

The building is like a ghost town these days since the firm’s relocation to St Pancras. Apparently it’s costing millions to upkeep, so hopefully Topshop’s little foray into hosting fashion events there has helped. Sir Phillip Green certainly doesn’t need the money, that’s for sure.

Directed by awkward looking teenagers dressed in grey branded bolier suits, we were ushered through the labyrinth that is left behind. There’s something a bit spooky about it – escalators are motionless, luggage belts are empty and all electrical devices like light-up signs for directions are, of course, turned off. There’s also a sense of poignancy in the air in this abandoned haunt. Nobody else seemed to sense this misery as they clacked around on their heels, so this might have been due to the eight coffees I had consumed that morning. Arriving at the top with the beautiful afternoon light bathing through the glass roof was quite something, though.

I had a little wander around, Ham-ing it up and taking a few pics of people glugging booze, and then a loud speaker announced that we should take our seats. The catwalk was the very last platform on the south side of the building, with tiered seating on one side only. Those models sure were close to the track. I did worry, especially after the trend of tumbling models we’ve seen this season.

The usual front rowers were there, including Alexandra Shulman, Brix Smith Start, Anna Dello Russo, and Sarah Mower. While it was nice to be in the daylight, the building doesn’t allow for any dramatic changes in light, so without any prior warning the show began. It’s a long catwalk n’all – there I was, worrying again that these models might not have eaten and would pass out from all that exercise.

Illustration by Krister Selin

Michael Van Der Ham’s clothing is a little odd when you first view it – seams are all over the place, fabrics are diverse, colours clash, outfits are classifiable on one side and then something totally different by the other. But somehow, they work. Rich tones of blue, pale and hot pinks, graphic patterns and pale colours all combine to make unique pieces and were styled very simply to allow them to have maximum impact. Themes like disco and dance spring to mind.

Because of Michael’s expert fusing of varying fabrics and cuts, there isn’t really any kind of silhouette to talk about – skirts were short, and then long; necklines were high, and then low; waists were diagonal and then horizontal, sleeves were short and then high – there was bias cut, flattering fabrics, body-con fabrics, the lot… I was a nervous wreck by the time the show finished. It’s all pretty baffling but beautiful to look at.

My favourite elements were crushed velours and velvets, embellished skirts, skirts that had been gathered to create gorgeous, soft shapes, and floating translucent fabrics that were attached like super-hero capes.

It’s a brave woman that can pull off the Michael Van Der Ham look. But those who can, should.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Written by Matt Bramford on Monday September 20th, 2010 6:01 pm

Categories ,Eurostar, ,illustration, ,Krister Selin, ,London Fashion Week, ,Michael van der Ham, ,Newgen, ,platform, ,review, ,S/S 2011, ,Topshop Space, ,Waterloo

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Pierre Garroudi

pierre garroudi – lfw – ss11 – sketch – jenny robins
pierre garroudi - lfw - ss11 - illustration - jenny robins
Illustration by Jenny Robins

The crowd for Pierre Garroudi’s London Fashion Week Haute Couture Collection SS11 show was super eclectic for sure. And the entire collection was even surer super electric blue. The venue was under Arch 6 on Crucifix Lane near Guy’s Hospital. Back stage there was definite drippage and industrial damp, more about but the exhibition space was very bright with expressionist paintings randomly placed on the walls. I was able to nab a seat on the photographers’ steps at the end, so I could see the catwalk in entirety.

pierre garroudi - lfw - ss11 - sketch crowd - jenny robins
Sketch of the crowd pre-show…

So into my optimal view came 22 models all with amazing sculptural hair pieces or hats and shoes that had been adorned with a variety of items most often plastic flowers but also toe dividers, combs, chopsticks, plastic guns and snakes and god knows what else all painted the same uniform metallic grey as the shoes.

Here are my catwalk sketches:

pierre garroudi - lfw - ss11 - sketch - jenny robins

In fact the hair, accessories and shoes outperformed the clothes for me on all but a few standout outfits. The nautical themed hair especially took my breath away, a hammerhead shark, enormous steam ships and all, there was a feeling of immense Regency powdered wig to some and Tribal head-dress to others. One model even had a mini ferris wheel on her head. The jewellery was likewise regal and eclectic, incorporating more found items, buttons and feathers. Here are some photos taken on my Blackberry, I felt comicly under endowed sitting with all the real photographers, but then, they didn’t have sketchbooks as, erm, full as mine.

pierre garroudi - lfw - ss11

Garroudi has clearly created this show with some amazing collaborative talent in the hair; cards were given out by Zed Nevada, for bespoke hair styling but I’m not sure if the other hair stylists listed were with him or separate, I also met Jan Knibbs who had collaborated on some of the neck pieces.

pierre garroudi - lfw - ss11 blue

The dresses themselves were mostly made up of intricately textured and folded fabrics and ribbons, at worst these did look like bathmats draped on the models, but at best there were some really beautiful pieces. Almost all backless and whatever the technical fashion word is for exhibiting side boob, with exciting sculptural things going on around the shoulders. I think the most successful dresses were those that used a more classical shape and incorporated it into the intricate fabric structures, a particularly crowd and Jenny pleasing outfit combined a sort of romantic crepe cape garment with an enormous layered tutu skirt. Stunning.

pierre garroudi - lfw - ss11 blue

I did mention right that all of these items were entirely electric blue? I’m sure you can see that from the pictures of course but I feel like it needs re-stating. So nice to see colour when our shops are full of the AW10 universally grey palettes I suppose. Last year, Garroudi’s show in the same space was entirely white, obviously when he decides to do a colour theme, he really does. Even the blue mini cupcakes were being handed out by beautiful impeccably suited gentlemen with blue in their hair.

I feel like I should make some kind of pun about having the blues. But that would be inappropriate. This is a happiness blue, a positive and fun collection, with the plastic bits and buttons incorporated it’s reminiscent of dressing up one’s Barbie doll in things found round the house, then spraying her fluorescent blue of course. Mum might not be best pleased at what you did to her bath mat of course.

Written by Jenny Robins on Sunday September 19th, 2010 5:33 pm

Categories ,fashion, ,illustration, ,London Fashion Week, ,Pierre Garroudi, ,review, ,Sketch

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Pierre Garroudi

pierre garroudi - lfw - ss11 - illustration - jenny robins
Illustration by Jenny Robins

The crowd for Pierre Garroudi’s London Fashion Week Haute Couture Collection SS11 show was super eclectic for sure. And the entire collection was even surer super electric blue. The venue was under Arch 6 on Crucifix Lane near Guy’s Hospital. Back stage there was definite drippage and industrial damp, but the exhibition space was very bright with expressionist paintings randomly placed on the walls. I was able to nab a seat on the photographers’ steps at the end, so I could see the catwalk in entirety.

pierre garroudi - lfw - ss11 - sketch crowd - jenny robins
Sketch of the crowd pre-show…

Here are my catwalk sketches:

pierre garroudi - lfw - ss11 - sketch - jenny robins

pierre garroudi - lfw - ss11

pierre garroudi - lfw - ss11 blue

Written by Jenny Robins on Sunday September 19th, 2010 5:33 pm

Categories ,fashion, ,illustration, ,London Fashion Week, ,Pierre Garroudi, ,review, ,Sketch

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Video Presentation Review: Lall London

Illustration by Chris Morris

This was an odd one. I rushed to Freemason’s Hall for the presentation of a ‘fashion film’, illness buy something which I had never been to before and took my seat. With no introduction, viagra order the video started…and then stopped after two minutes, and that was it. From the piece of paper on my chair I learnt that the video follows four stages of liberation: The Awakening, The Search, The Bloom and The Transcendence. You can watch it for yourself here, if you want.

I was expecting a short question and answer, or possibly an explanation. The rest of the audience was as confused as I, not knowing whether to get up and leave or hang on for something more. I chose the latter and had a chat to the director Monica Elkelv, who seemed very pleased with the overall reaction to the event.

From the website I was able to look at the collection in full. Their S/S 2011 offering, Ornithorium, is lovely. Lall London describe their style as casual-luxe, but it is a million miles away from Christian Blanken’s collection which falls into the same category. Gurdeep Lall has really gone to town on the luxe element, using embellishment all over the delicate pieces of silk chiffon and crepe they design. The result is a shimmering, glittering and rather beautiful collection.

Illustration of Monica Elkelv by Chris Morris

Inspired by exotic birds, the references are everywhere with swans, flamingoes and humming birds adorning the muted shades of pale pink and tangerine. My favourite pieces has to be the sequined all over high waisted trousers (treggings?) which feature heavily in the video and are embellished with flashes of pink and light blue. For more wearable pieces, they offer lovely tunic style long baggy tops in pale colours which are of course, adorned with silvery sequins too.

I really admire the collection. However, I didn’t really understand the video presentation as I would have much rather of seen the clothes in the flesh. It really didn’t do the clothes the justice they deserve and after searching on the internet this seems to be the only review that has gone up from the event.

Written by Florence Massey on Friday September 24th, 2010 3:15 pm

Categories ,Casual Luxe, ,Chris Morris, ,fashion, ,Fashion films, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,illustration, ,Lall London, ,London Fashion Week, ,Luxe, ,review, ,S/S 2011, ,Sports Luxe, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Charlotte Eskildsen

Illustration by Andrea Peterson

As part of Designers Remix, prostate diagnosis designer Charlotte Eskildsen, website who is creative director of the enterprise published their signature collection last week. After winning the prestigious Danish Design Guldknappen award she has become a force to be reckoned with in international fashion since starting the line in 2002. Her S/S 2011 collection ‘Liquid Sky’ is inspired by cloud formations.

Draped fabrics. Origami folds. A flash orange dress. Scraped back hair tied in tight knots. The show, held in the Portico rooms was one of my favourites of the week. Like many others, it stuck strongly to a muted colour range, beginning with pieces in greys, creams and blacks. Small details like the delicate lace insets and just-seen underskirts pulled the collection together extremely well.

Charlotte’s skill lies in how well she collects the fabric together and makes it hang. Ruffles on the shoulders of her cream dresses are restrained and kept from looking fussy, the great bright orange dress (which I desperately want) is understated in all other ways bar the colour and the waterfall collars on the jackets carried the theme of softness through even on heavier fabrics.

Illustration by Andrea Peterson

The clothes ranged from smart black dresses, to sand toned wafty jackets and ruffled party frocks in various shades of cream. This is a collection that is just good. I can’t put my finger on an exact feature or piece that puts it into a higher category for me and I think that’s why I like it.

More than just a beautiful ready to wear summer collection, it brings together a floaty casual look with added details of specialness without being over the top. If I wanted to sound very fashiony I would call it perfect ‘understated chic’, but hopefully I’ve described it better than that!

Written by Florence Massey on Tuesday September 28th, 2010 4:20 pm

Categories ,Andrea Peterson, ,Charlotte Eskildsen, ,fashion, ,Goldknappen Award, ,illustration, ,London Fashion Week, ,Portico Rooms, ,S/S 2011, ,Somerset House, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Christian Blanken

Illustration by Gareth A. Hopkins

As I have found with all the Portico Rooms shows, this site pills they never start on time. I arrived too early again but on this occasion, had the pleasure of watching Blanken being interviewed outside on the balcony, and the models (slightly last minute?!) being taught the walk timings.

Christian Blanken’s sport luxe approach to fashion has always intrigued me – before this weird jogging bottoms with heels trend came along, I thought him very clever to be able to make casual(ish) clothes look very special. However, therein lies the problem – its still just very sports luxe. He followed the trend this season of sticking to neutral and block colours – white, grey, black and the occasional gold lame looking dress or top. Favourite pieces for me included the floor length white dress with silver edging, and all the gold spangly numbers.

Illustration by Gareth A. Hopkins

True to form, innovative and technologically advanced fabrics featured at the forefront of his designs. Using inspiration from 1920s and 1930s (although I couldn’t see it) and designer Claire McCardell (famed for clean, functional designs), I feel that the collection played it very safe. His signature clean lines, and the mixture of luxury fabrics and textures with a sportsy feel are all there, but nothing earth shattering.

Interestingly, for ‘Nine’ he included three of Britain’s most prominent Olympic hopefuls – Jodie Williams, Tasha Danvers and Vicki Barr who all did a sterling job at modeling the clothes.

All photography by Amelia Gregory

To be honest, I am slightly disappointed. I expected more from the designer. As you can see from the photograph above, it was a very neutral colour scheme with the odd pair of black sequinned leggings (I like very much) and gold lame dresses/playsuits.

The stains which myself and others in the front row noticed on some of the clothes, and the typos in the press release didn’t help.

Written by Florence Massey on Thursday September 23rd, 2010 6:11 pm

Categories ,Amelia Gregory, ,Amelia’s Magazine, ,Christian Blanken, ,Claire McCardell, ,fashion, ,Florence Massey, ,Gareth Hopkins, ,illustration, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,neutral, ,Olympic hopefuls, ,Portico Rooms, ,review, ,S/S 2011, ,Somerset House, ,Sports Luxe, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Exhibition Review

Caitlin Rose by Hayley Akins
Illustration by Hayley Akins.

Such had been the anticipation surrounding Caitlin Rose’s return to the UK, medical search especially after the release of her acclaimed debut album, pilule Own Side Now, nurse that her shows in the capital soon sold out. Being the smallest of those venues, but organised by such thoughtful fellows, Brixton’s Windmill quickly arranged a special early evening show to cater for any disappointed punters. Needless to say, the tickets flew for that one as well.

CAITLINROSE_BY DONYATODD
Illustration by Donya Todd

I’d been caught out too many times by being lastminute.com when buying tickets in the past, so I’d got in sharpish and, as a result, I drew the straw for the late show. I arrived quite early (well, 9.00pm) and caught the support band, Treetop Flyers, limbering up for their second performance of the evening. A London based band, and purveyors of the finest Americana, tonight they were playing a more stripped back acoustic set. I’d never caught them before, but I liked what I heard. They set the mood nicely for the evening, even throwing in a Townes Van Zandt cover.

caitlin rose-stephanie thieullent
Illustration by Stephanie Thieullent

By the time Caitlin Rose took to the stage, the Windmill was pretty rammed. I’d seen her live a couple of times before (and all but once at the Windmill), though this was the first time with a full band (apparently they couldn’t afford to fly out the drummer from the US on the last tour). After having obviously enjoyed a few refreshments between sets, Rose cheerfully exclaimed “two of us haven’t slept!”, as the band launched into New York.

caitlin rose by mary ferfyri
Illustration by Mary Ferfiry

Own Side Now has seen Caitlin Rose expand on the fairly traditional country sound of her debut release, the Dead Flowers EP (as hinted at in an interview with Amelia’s Magazine last summer). The intimacy of the Windmill really lent itself to her songs (and especially that voice!), as we sampled such bittersweet treats as For The Rabbits and Learning To Ride.

There was a particularly affecting rendition of Own Side, which brought a lump to the throat of even this old cynic. Answer In One Of These Bottles (from Dead Flowers) sparked a raucous sing-along, before everyone rocked out to Shanghai Cigarettes.

Caitlin Rose by Ashley Fauguel
Illustration by Ashley Fauguel

Rose switched from acoustic guitar to electric and back again, there was plenty of banter, and there were all the hallmarks for a special night in place. After a couple more UK dates before a return to the US, and then a trip to the Antipodes, we’re not likely to see Ms Rose on these shores again before some festival appearances in the summer – given her current ascendency, one wonders whether we’ll ever see her play in such a venue as the Windmill again.

Caitlin Rose by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly the Eggs

Caitlin Rose by Hayley Akins
Illustration by Hayley Akins.

Such had been the anticipation surrounding Caitlin Rose’s return to the UK, doctor especially after the release of her acclaimed debut album, patient Own Side Now, that her shows in the capital soon sold out. Being the smallest of those venues, but organised by such thoughtful fellows, Brixton’s Windmill quickly arranged a special early evening show to cater for any disappointed punters. Needless to say, the tickets flew for that one as well.

CAITLINROSE_BY DONYATODD
Illustration by Donya Todd

caitlin rose-stephanie thieullent
Illustration by Stephanie Thieullent

caitlin rose by mary ferfyri
Illustration by Mary Ferfiry

Caitlin Rose by Ashley Fauguel
Illustration by Ashley Fauguel

Caitlin Rose by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly the Eggs

title - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Most illustrations by Jenny Robins.

I got photographed on my way in to Somerset House (in my jumble sale sheepskin coat belonging to my sister and waistcoat from H&M Kids circa 1999) – expect to see me in Vogue. Not really. The reason I wore the waistcoat was to hide the fact that the little charity shop top I had on underneath with the Peter Pan collar was missing several buttons up the back which continued to pop off as I rushed around London.

sketchbook -Jordan Azkill - Felicity Brown - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Jordan Askill and Felicity Brown in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

After sketching away at the Charlotte Eskildsen exhibition (leather gloves, nurse exciting shapes, erectile draw string leg warmers, see the write up by Jemma Crow which includes my sketches here) and drawing like a mad thing from a sideways view at Jasper Conran’s catwalk show (see my write up and illustrations here) I went for a wander through the New Gen, BFC/Elle talent launch pad and Vauxhall Fashion Scout galleries to take in some static displays and meet some nice publicists and designers. Please see here for your viewing pleasure my sketchbook pages from the day and some additional pictures and commentary.

sketchbook - Holly Fulton - Christopher Raeburn - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Holly Fulton & Christopher Raeburn in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

It’s a funny thing to visit these exhibitions on the Saturday (as I did) because half the stuff on show at New Gen is Spring/Summer as the new things are off being catwalked – as it were – or are secret till they have been, and the designers don’t really want you to write about their Spring/Summer stuff yet so sometimes they talk it down. This didn’t stop me from falling in love with the hand perforated yellow leather cocktail dress and skirt by Holly Fulton which were some of the first things I saw. I’ve had a look at her new collection and it isn’t quite as joyful as these two pieces for me but still typically beautiful with her geometric patterns and increasingly incorporating more sinuous art nouveauesque prints too.

Jordan Askill Ceramic Bird Necklace by Madi.

The next thing to really catch my eye was the stunning sculptural jewellery work of Jordan Askill. Anything with a lot of birds in, or let’s face it, just one bird, is a joy for me and Askill’s white resin and nylon swallows *en masse* was perfection itself.

Jordan Askill by Jenny Robins.

Opposite was Yang Du’s stall with her fabulously kitsch and chic cashmere dolly dresses and capes. These I love, but Yang Du‘s additional arrangement of knitted toy scarves and finger puppet gloves confused me quite a lot. It’s not that I don’t like them, I just don’t see what about them is different from the crafty equivalent you could pick up in a village jumble for probably a fiver, or from a hobbyist on etsy for a bit more, but they are retailing at Selfridges for hundreds of pounds. This is the paradox of lo-fi high fashion.

sketchbook - Yang Du - Mary Katrantzou - Fannie Schiavoni - Piers Atkinson - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Yang Du, Mary Katrantzou, Fannie Schiavoni & Piers Atkinson in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

I didn’t see any of Mary Katrantzou’s amazing collection as it was out on show, but the pieces on show from S/S 2011 still caught my eye: high colour interior prints and tasselled house lamp skirts – I highly recommend taking a look at the review of her A/W 2011 collection here.

Piers Atkinson - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Piers Atkinson by Jenny Robins.

In the riverside lobby downstairs where the cake is, a display of various hats under the title headonism (get it) was sure to catch my attention with Piers Atkinson’s awesome giant cherry headband – he has a wide array of other more and less absurd head accessories including a beanie with giant mickey mouse ear style pompoms, a glittery and 24 carrot gold aubergine head band and various exuberant ostrich feathered creations. Read a longer review of this here.

sketchbook - Lublu Kira Plastina - George Angelopoulos - Yunus & Eliza - Les Nereides - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Lublu Kira Plastina, George Angelopoulos, Yunus & Eliza & Les Nereides in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

At the BFC/Elle Talent Launchpad exhibition space the first thing to pique my curiosity were the jewel like gold plated enamel face crucifixes made by Yunus & Eliza – I say crucifixes, but looking at the website it seems maybe they are not meant to be Christian symbols at all – the ambiguity probably plays to their favour though. While Eliza was wonderfully eloquent about some of their other pieces – which are based on child genius and bird heads (yay, birds) – she didn’t say a lot about what seems to be their signature idea. Good for them I say, spiritual ambiguity should be shiny and beautiful. I was also very impressed by the description the pair gave of their collaborative working – the metamorphosis of their ideas mirroring the themes they play with. I don’t play very well with others so I’m always impressed by successful collaboration. I was also struck by Lublu Kira Plastinina’s novelty oversize zips, as well as her classic mac with giant fur sleeves (boo fur), I drew this to scale (above) to demonstrate the size of the zips.

les nereides - n2 aw11 - lfw
Les Nereides, image courtesy of N2

I then spent a good amount of time looking at the beautiful and quirky N2 jewellery collection by Les Nereides and chatting to the lovely Rose and Melissa about fashion week snobbery. The work is gorgeous, a cheaper, kitscher spin off from the intricate work of the main label (although still retailing from £30 – cheaper is high end cheaper of course) featuring designer collaborations, fairytales, French patisserie and large characterful animal necklaces. N2 recently opened their own spin off special store in Monmouth Street. I love it all though similarly to with Yang Du I feel the same conflict brought on by the posh/cute dynamic – I’m just not born to be bothered by quality as much as some, if it’s going to look cheerful and basic, why gold plate it?

sketchbook - Teatum Jones - N2 llama - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Teatum Jones and N2 llama in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

Upstairs I was struck by Teatum Jones’ amazing printed silk Eva Moore Shirt Dress – super delicate and all lilacs and pinks against the utilitarian shapes of the shirt design. Catherine Teatum (who was wearing an amazing silver leather jacket), shared with me how the piece is inspired by two women who worked on the front line during World War I – there was no female uniform for their position so they wore oversized men’s uniform and the floral looking pattern reflects their mud and blood soaked attire. You would not guess this from looking at the dress. But there is that sense of strength and melancholy in the collection – which also includes high waist trench trousers and a heavy caped trench coat cut short as well as more delicate items – that chimes well at the moment. Let us be stoic and feminine, and pull together. I drew the two designers above with their iconic dress. Read more about Teatum Jones in our emerging talent preview.

Nuerotica - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Nuerotica by Jenny Robins.

My next love affair was with Neurotica’s A/W 2011 Bright Eyes collection based on Watership Down. Even though the animated film did give me nightmares, especially that bit with the gas in the tunnels, you’ve got to love the foresty, rabbity vibe on show here. I want almost everything in this collection, from the chunky quilted collars to the amazing strapless jumpsuit – all sporting some kind of atmospheric winter branch print. A little bit gothic in sentiment, but so clean and feminine in the shapes. Yeah I super love it actually. Their S/S 2011 stuff is pretty brilliant too. Look out for it.

sketchbook - Little Glass Clementine - Neurotica - ethical - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Little Glass Clementine & Neurotica in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

Then I strayed into Estethica and met Little Glass Clementine (as featured in ACOFI!) who puts together all sorts of oddments and icons in her maximalist jewellery, not so much of a collection because each piece is a one off, but there are emerging themes. I especially enjoyed the stop-watch elements and the pieces of blue and white tiles incorporated into some of the necklaces.

Pachacuti - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Pachacuti by Jenny Robins.

I was also impressed by Pachacuti’s array of colourful ethical panama hats made by women’s collectives in Ecuador. Apparently they were doing it before it was all trendy.

sketchbook - Ginta - Anthony Peto - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Ginta & Anthony Peto in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

Tatty Devine - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Tatty Devine by Jenny Robins.

I also enjoyed a sneak peek at Tatty Devine’s forthcoming new collections, which feature pieces inspired by owls, ivy, foxes, sycamore seeds and chunky oldschool brogues. All very fun, with the organic subtlety of some of these new designs blending softly with their Perspex shapes – perfect in the new matt frosted Perspex used for some of these. I like the foxes and ivy especially, mature yet whimsical showing that Tatty Devine is growing from strength to strength. Also featured were an upcoming footwear collaboration with the Old Curiosity Shop – adding Perspex moustaches to their shoes.

Ginta Siceva Masks by Madi.

Ginta - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Ginta by Jenny Robins

Ginta’s lovely lazer cut intricate accessories layer leather flowers, and were almost as stunning as the designer herself.

Ginta - aw11 - lfw
Image courtesy of Ginta

sketchbook - Vauxhall Fashion Scout - Erika Trotzig - Una Burke - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Erika Trotzig & Una Burke in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

As extensively covered elsewhere on Amelia’s Magazine, I also found myself struck by Una Burke’s prosthetics inspired pieces and wet plate photography at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. High concept bondage, beautifully put together – all by hand because apparently the riveter has not been made that can rivet so many layers of leather, so more art than fashion really. Exploring how people with prosthetics (like disfigurements) find they often lose their identity when all people see is their unusual limbs, the work is successful I think – you certainly would notice a Una Burke outfit more than the person inside it.

In the small amount of time left before I headed into the Vauxhall Fashion Scout exhibition, where I drew two stunning dresses and the designers who created them:

sketchbook - Nicole Murray - Edward Finney - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Nicole Murray & Edward Finney in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

Edward Finney’s work here is amazingly fluid yet sculptural, the silhouette is so long and sumptuous, and I love the matter of fact shapes of the bodice. Classy yet daring. All that stuff.

Nicole Murray’s dress by comparison is an absolute delight of softness and intricacy. The classic long gown underneath the gorgeous lace shift covers the wearer almost completely, yet seems very naked and unearthly. She was also beautiful.

Nicole Murray - lfw aw11 - dress
Nicole Murray. Photo courtesy of h.prlondon

Of the three shows I enjoyed the vibe at Freemasons Hall the most… it may have been the venue but it just felt far more relaxed and refined. The toilets were also very nice.

sketchbook - Fashion Mode crowd - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
The Fashion Mode crowd in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

Written by Jenny Robins on Friday March 18th, 2011 2:52 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Anthony Peto, ,BFC/ELLE Talent Launch Pad, ,birds, ,Edward Finney, ,Elle Talent Launch Pad, ,Erika Trotzig, ,estethica, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Fannie Schiavoni, ,fashion, ,Fashion Mode, ,Felicity Brown, ,Freemasons, ,George Angelopoulos, ,Ginta, ,hats, ,Holly Fulton, ,illustration, ,Jenny Robins, ,jewellery, ,Jordan Askill, ,Les Nereides, ,Lublu Kira, ,Madi, ,Madi Illustrates, ,N2, ,Neuroticam Little Glass Clementine, ,New Gen, ,Nicole Murray, ,Pachacuti, ,piers atkinson, ,Sketches, ,Tatty Devine, ,Teatum Jones, ,Úna Burke, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Yang Du, ,Yunus & Eliza

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Exhibition Review

title - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Most illustrations by Jenny Robins.

sketchbook -Jordan Azkill - Felicity Brown - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Jordan Askill and Felicity Brown in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

After sketching away at the Charlotte Eskildsen exhibition (leather gloves, exciting shapes, draw string leg warmers, see the write up by Jemma Crow which includes my sketches here) and drawing like a mad thing from a sideways view at Jasper Conran’s catwalk show (see my write up and illustrations here) I went for a wander through the New Gen, BFC/Elle talent launch pad and Vauxhall Fashion Scout galleries to take in some static displays and meet some nice publicists and designers. Please see here for your viewing pleasure my sketchbook pages from the day and some additional pictures and commentary.

sketchbook - Holly Fulton - Christopher Raeburn - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Holly Fulton & Christopher Raeburn in Jenny Robins’ sketchbook.

Jordan Askill Ceramic Bird Necklace by Madi.

Jordan Askill by Jenny Robins.

Opposite was Yang Du’s stall with her fabulously kitsch and chic cashmere dolly dresses and capes. These I love, but Yang Du’s additional arrangement of knitted toy scarves and finger puppet gloves confused me quite a lot. It’s not that I don’t like them, I just don’t see what about them is different from the crafty equivalent you could pick up in a village jumble for probably a fiver, or from a hobbyist on etsy for a bit more, but they are retailing at Selfridges for hundreds of pounds. This is the paradox of lo-fi high fashion.