Easter is just around the corner, click and as well as a delightfully lo-oo-ong weekend, it also means plenty of chocolate egg eating and some egg hunting (despite being in my twenties, I still pursue the tradition each year, clues and everything). For those of you who want to find a healthier way of celebrating it, and fancy throwing a gift someone’s way, I have hunted high and low and found the latest offering from Tatty Devine to be the perfect solution.
The nest necklace and brooches are a result of yet another successful collaboration between kooky jewellers Tatty Devine, and London based artist Rob Ryan. These two heavyweights have collaborated not only on ranges in the past, but also on Amelia’s Magazine Issue 02. Ryan, a papercutting and screen printing artist who regularly lends his creative talents to creating bespoke and commissioned pieces, has made two nest pieces just in time for Easter. Featuring two nutty brown birds, a natural woodcut nest and a pale pink veneer egg reading Our Adventure is About to Begin the two pieces are different as well as being completely wearable (a quality I like in Tatty pieces).
It is easy to see how the intricate nature of his work is perfect for designing quirky pieces of jewellery; priced at £105 for the brooch and £135 for the necklace, they are only producing 25 of each so get in there quick. Brick Lane based Tatty Devine are celebrating 10 years of trading, and what better way that to revisit such a successful partnership. The shop uses their window display to showcase collaborations, so next time you’re in the East End pay them a visit…while you’re at it, go and visit Ryan’s shop.
Happy Hunting!
Written by Florence Massey on Monday March 29th, 2010 1:45 pm
Feelin’ hot hot hot… we arrived at the field with a blanket and straw hat, viagrastuff and headed straight to the bar. Queuing for what felt like a life-time in the blistering heat, pricecheap sounds of Johnny Flynn drifted through the air along with the smells of barbecued sausages. Queuing aside, we were happy.
Ciders in hand we weaved through camping chairs and stepped apologetically over blankets, occasionally catching the odd sandaled foot or splashing a little cider over a resting head… all part of the joy of festivalling, we found a spot, lay the blanket on the ground just in time for Laura Marling to take to the stage. ‘Afternoon everyone!’ Laura’s soothing voice echoed over the masses, ‘what a day!’…. people woo’d and clapped and cheered. In two years, Marling’s voice and lyrics have matured from pretty ditties to soulful folk… and her performance this weekend reeled in an eclectic crowd. Folk of all ages stood, eyes fixed and humming and Marling’s voice resonated. Songs from Marling’s latest album I Speak Because I Can mixed with original tracks from My Manic and I had us reminiscing, spinning around and singing-along.
Between sets we ate, drank and lay gazing into the brilliant blue ether… catching a bit of celebrity football, Mumford & Sons giving it their best. Seasick Steve was next up, and took to the stage with crowds-a-roaring. Unfortunately, due to minor sunstroke, we weren’t around for the whole set, but from what we saw, as always Seasick gave a cracking performance.
Mumford & Sons belted out there emotive country-inspired folk, now well-known from their vast radio coverage, and had the audience fixed. Looking and sounding the part, and slotting in perfectly to the Hop Farm scene.
Whilst queuing for a lamb kofta and chatting to a wonderful lady who lives on a pig farm in Cambridgeshire, who told me stories of her days as a festival queen in the 70s… (she was so small she used to crouch on the loo seat, feet on the seat – to avoid sitting on it… little ladies – take note!) Ray Davies performed and it came as pleasant surprise to hear the well-known Kinks records: Lola, You Really Got Me and all the rest. At the age of 66, Ray’s voice carried across fields, still very much in tact.
Last but not least, good old Bob Dylan appeared on stage, his (very) husky tones hooking the expectant field of fans, and taking them on a tumultuous journey through a plethora of songs steeped in sentiment.
Finally, an incredible set from Devendra Banhart ensued; no longer the long-haired folky-dolky guy that once plucked at our heartstrings, Devendra has completely reinvented his style: short-back-and-sides, checked shirt and long yellow cardie buttoned up; the sounds were funky and playful, his voice endearing and still with that jagged edge that made him famous. Even a few Roxy Music covers were thrown in to get us grooving. We danced until the cows came home.
With businesses struggling to survive through the recession armageddon, this site a few innovative individuals are thriving, using their imagination and collaborations with other creatives to succeed. Sarah Bagner, or ‘Supermarket Sarah‘ transformed a wall of her own home into a window dresser’s dream; featuring both vintage finds and handmade creations from the likes of Donna Wilson. Inviting shoppers into her home for tea and cake has gained her such a following that Selfridges even invited her to curate a wall for them.
Her latest collaboration is with the queens of cool, Tatty Devine, whose Brick Lane store has been transformed into an Aladdin’s cave of Sarah’s goodies. Tatty Devine is also famous for pioneering the collaborative spirit, teaming up with the likes of Rob Ryan, Charlie le Mindu and Mrs Jones to make their iconic statement jewellery ranges. Last night fellow creatives Fred Butler and Anna Murray were spinning some tunes on the decks, whilst cupcakes were supplied by Fifi and Lola.
I snapped Sarah wearing her Tatty Devine ‘Supermarket Sarah’ necklace in front of her wall which will soon be online here. The installation will be in store until the 16th August, alongside Tatty Devine’s regular stock which is currently on sale. This is your one stop shop for sorting your festival outfits; grab some neck candy from Tatty Devine and something from Sarah’s vintage dressing up box and you’re set!
Photographs by Katie Antoniou
Written by Katie Antoniou on Tuesday July 20th, 2010 4:54 pm
The Laden Showroom, a fixture on Brick Lane for ten years now, is renowned for stocking the work of innovative and hard-to-find designers. They specialise in providing a platform for up and coming talent, and go beyond merely stocking their clothes, to offering marketing advice and guidance. Set-up in 1999 by brother and sister team Barry and Adele, the shop has helped launch the careers of over 200 designers. Currently they stock over 65 designers, including Bonnie, Chandelier, Collect, Connected Generation, JARLO and Orion London.
Launching Laden.co.uk is an exciting step for the business, and the website promises to be much more than just another e-commerce site. With limited buys and stock changing every two weeks it will be hard to get bored of what’s on offer. If you’re lacking inspiration there will be style tips from editorial influenced and styled pages. Click ‘Laden Loves’ and you’ll be transported to a world of current trends, and if you hanker for the good old days hit ‘Laden Vintage’ and you’ll find a selection of one-off pieces which have been reworked using vintage fabric. For those feeling particularly lazy you can select ‘Get the Laden Look’ and whole outfits will magically appear in your shopping cart.
If you’re into a bit of blogging there will also be an insider blog attached to the website so you can have a browse for ideas before shopping. Or if you fancy yourself as a bit of a talent on the old sewing machine, online applications for inclusion in the store will be available.
To celebrate the launch of laden.co.uk, The Laden Showroom are offering a fashion fan the chance to win £200 worth of laden.co.uk clothing, and 6 invites to the launch party on February 22 during London Fashion Week. To enter simply visit laden.co.uk and hit ‘Join the Laden List’ and you will be in with a chance of winning.
And if that wasn’t enough as a special incentive for Amelia’s readers who pre-register before the launch. Laden.co.uk are offering a 10% discount card to spend in the month after launch! Bargains galore! So don’t forget the site goes live on the 22nd February!
Written by Rachael Millar on Friday February 12th, 2010 4:44 pm
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
I cannot tell a lie: I went into Ada Zanditon‘s presentation with high hopes, information pills especially after I ran a huge pre LFW interview with her describing what to expect from The Cryoflux.
Ada Zanditon deep in conversation.
On entry to the On/Off space I was ushered towards already packed seats. Ada was deep in conversation on the front row but it was unclear what was going to happen until she urged those near her to get up and touch the clothes, pharmacy arranged on a series of awkward mannequins across one half of the room. At which point everybody got out of their seats and descended on the area at the front, stomach immediately blocking the wall just as her short film started playing. I looked at the clothes briefly, then tried in vain to watch The Cryoflux film over a sea of heads before leaving for another show.
This was a compact collection compared with previous seasons. Taking inspiration from the extreme climate in Antarctica The Cryoflux features plenty of complex pyramidal cutting, a technique for which Ada Zanditon has become well known. We have already run multiple images of the gorgeous orange red ‘flame’ wool coat, which picks up on a key colour theme for the next season, but the dominant colouring of The Cryoflux was icy blues, whites and a deep navy.
My favourite piece was the stunning showpiece dress, replete with a layered waterfall of printed silk inspired by frozen ice formations. I was also struck by a particularly beautiful geometric necklace, another collaboration with Luca Romanyi.
Ada Zanditon The Cryoflux jewellery in collaboration with Luca Romanyi.
We have been massive supporters of Ada Zanditon for several years now and we were blown away by her show last season. In short I really like Ada’s design aesthetic and ethical outlook… but I’m afraid that this proved to me once and for all that presentations are a difficult beast to get right. She had spoken of her desire for people to get up close and personal with the collection, which is all well and good, but journalists want good images, and it’s very hard for mannequins to provide this – pretty girls in pretty clothes will always win head and shoulders over a bony angled mannequin, however bony said girls are likely themselves to be. It felt as though this presentation was aimed at the needs of buyers rather than press.
As for the promise of a surprise when we entered the room, I still have no idea what this was, though other people have assured me that there was an ice sculpture in the room somewhere. I never saw it, thanks to the density of the crowd in attendance.
Despite Ada’s protestations that this was the best possible way to showcase her A/W 2011 collection I left feeling sadly underwhelmed. Please bring back live models next season Ada!
Recipient of the VFS Merit Award, pilule Gerogina Hardinge is far more than the ‘one to watch’ designer she was last season. Her first stand alone collection drew the likes of fashion press favourite Nicola Roberts.Another committed member of the digital prints parade, Hardinge sent monochrome skeletal prints down the runway played out on leggings, tight half-sleeve dresses and body-con tops. Inspired by the dark, and sometimes disturbing photography of Joel Peter Witkin, the concept of death, destruction and disfiguration was emphasised on streamlined silhouettes and her signature structural pieces.
The second half of the show was a little lighter, due to the injection of bone white and dusky peach leathers. A particular favourite was a dark brown playsuit with centre detailing and a nipped in waist. Hardinge cleverly used the robust leather so that she could engineer it to do what she wanted. Pleats, folds, and stiff overlapping layers on sleeves, legs and bodies were key in adding volume to otherwise clean, simple and effortless pieces.
Christopher Beales has been working at the coal face of fashion for his entire career thus far, more about in places as diverse as Voyage (the bizarre hippyluxe shop that you had to be a member of to even enter) and for Primark. He’s worked for Alexander McQueen and Matthew Williamson, about it as a costume designer for films such as Harry Potter and Robin Hood, case and he’s dressed eccentric individuals such as Prince.
On Friday evening I popped along to his A/W 2011 presentation When The Crystal Crack’d, which was conveniently held in the Rag Factory off Brick Lane – thereby ensuring a steady stream of inquisitive fashionistas who were no doubt heading home to their East London nests after a long first day of shows.
Arranged on a sculptural arrangement of silver mesh mannequins, themselves constructed by Christopher Beales, this was a stunning debut for LFW: low key but very clever in its presentation. When The Crystal Crack’d is a collection of cocktail and evening dresses that features the precision tailoring that Christopher has perfected over many years of pattern cutting for famous names. Based on lots of asymmetric shapes in pastel and metallic silk, my favourite bit of the collection was most definitely in the details. Unexpected bows held aloft draped fabric, metal spikes accentuated the subtle curve of an exposed back and knobbled wool traced the contours of a waist.
Do you have a band that soundtrack your life? The music of your memories?
Mine was, curetreatment is and always will be The National, a band who’ve been playing in the background of my first loves, lost loves, sad times, happy times, party times, sleep times, journeys on planes, journeys on trains, moving in-s and moving out-s.
Last night, after almost 5 years of unadulterated adoration and no less than 3 missed opportunities to see them , I finally saw The National, and it was knee-knockingly, breathtakingly amazing.
So amazing in fact, I broke a few of my cardinal “What Not To Do At Gigs” Rules. Nominally, these are:
1. Thou shall not sing along (aloud or mouthing along silently; they’re both as bad as each other)
2. Thou shall not join in group clapping (I’m not really a crowd participation kind of girl)
3. Thou shall not sway with your eyes closed (it looks creepy)
Having left the Royal Festival Hall in between lamenting the loss of my gig misanthropy and watching A Skin, A Night in bed (I really like The National- if you hadn’t noticed by this point) I began to ponder how to write about a band you’ve loved for such a long time, so here it goes.
(A Skin, A Night trailer)
Playing songs from their last two albums (Alligator and Boxer) and an EP (Cherry Tree), as well as covering new songs like the excellent ‘Runaway’, I noticed that one of the most striking thing about The National was their ability to depart from their records, which are, even at their most upbeat are still darkly contemplative and reflective, live however their energy is palpable, their most melancholic songs live are shot through with electricity and flourish. The National are a lot more prolific than the 2007 ‘overnight’ success of Boxer would suggest, and their familiarity with their extensive back catalogue allows them to embellish upon their records, making the live show full of exciting little twists and turns.
Somewhere amidst these sonic twists and turns, I recognised The National’s ability to change the mood of not only what they were playing but also the mood of a packed out auditorium of people. Their music soars and swoops, murmurs with melancholy, heard in both Berringer’s voice and Newsome’s string solos, before crescendo-ing into a clattering wave of emotional intensity on the drums, guitars and brass. ‘Fake Empire’ ; Boxer’s opener starts with a simple, lilting piano melody and builds up to a full orchestral smorgasbord and was definitely a stand out favourite for me alongside ‘About Today’ from the aforementioned Cherry Tree EP whilst faster songs including ‘Mistaken for Strangers’ and ‘All the Wine’ pulsated with a dark emotion. The National are undoubtedly a honed and well oiled team from the drums and brass section to Padma Newsome’s dexterity on the piano and strings and it is this that enabled them to take such hairpin turns throughout their hour and a half long set, whilst retaining the interest of a legion of loyal fans, which is no mean feat.
And what of Mr. Berringer as a front man? I always had a rather specific image of him as a shy and brooding wordsmith, yet he commanded the attention of the crowd with his vocal range; from his trademark seductive baritone murmuring (‘Green Gloves’), to top-of-lungs anguished shouting (‘Abel’).
The National create a totally unique soundscape, both live and on record, a soundscape filled with towering skyscrapers and empty parties, of drunk men in dead end jobs and the women they once loved leaving them. Ok, so it ‘s clearly not the Disneyworld of soundscapes but there is a real honesty and sad beauty to the images they create that inspire empathy and awe (both lyrically and melodically) in the stoniest of hearts.
So now as one of the converted to eyes closed, body swaying dancing at gigs, I unabashedly say that The National didn’t let me down live and I will continue to soundtrack a new lot of adventures with their music. Make them yours!
(Video for ‘Apartment Story’)
Monday 10th August
UN Climate Change Talks
The U.N. Climate Change Talks in Bonn, try Germany begin a series of informal intersessional consultations today. These are part of the run-up to Copenhagen in December, page and this particular series can be found webcast live here
The Yes Men film shows the hoaxes perpetrated by two US political pranksters. The promotion team describe the film as “so stupidly entertaining” that it will reach and motivate thousands of people, page thus “adding even more juice into a movement that is trying to save civilization itself, among other modest goals.
Tuesday is the satellite event – live from Sheffield, it’s a simulcast event screening of THE YES MEN FIX THE WORLD and live q&a with the Yes Men beamed via satellites from Sheffield Showroom. Cinema-goers will have the opportunity to put their questions live and direct to the film’s stars from their respective cinema locations.
20.30, at the following London cinemas:
Odeon Panton Street, Clapham Picture House, The Gate Notting Hill, Greenwich Cinema, Ritzy Brixton, Screen-on-the-Green
More cinemas on the screenings page of their website.
Wednesday 12th August
Green Spaces & Sticky Feet
A creative exploration of the nature beneath our feet as we roam around the gardens – to help us understand why green spaces are important and how we can make our buildings greener. This is a workshop for children of all ages, who must be accompanied at all times by an adult.
On Friday the 7th August the bailiffs went in and the occupation of the Vestas wind turbine plant on the Isle of Wight ended.
In response to this a National Day of Action in support of the Vestas workers and to keep the factory open, for Green Jobs and a Green Energy Revolution, was declared. There will be actions all around the country organised by a diverse range of groups.
Or contact your local CCC group, or Union – or if you want to organise something in your area there is some advice from Jonathan Neale, of the CCC Trade Union group
The campaign to Save Vestas has not finished, it has just started and with it comes a campaign for a step change in the creation of Green Jobs and the Green Energy Revolution !
6.30pm
Outside the Department of Energy and Climate Change (DECC)
A spiritual celebration and experience, honouring our regal beauty with sacred song and dance. Dances of universal peace, Taize singing, Bhajans & Kirtan, native American sweat lodge, Zikr & Sufi practice, Breton dancing, Tibetan sound meditation, yoga, tribal dance, ancient ways of the British Isles, chant wave and more…
Let the London Wildlife Trust take you out trapping, identifying and recording moths on the Totteridge Fields Nature Reserve. Come and see how many species of moths visit the fields at night. Please wear warm clothes and sensible footwear. Bring a Torch, Notebook and pen. You may also want to bring a flask.
Free car parking in sports ground car park adjacent to the Hendon Wood Lane entrance.
Nearest tube is Totteridge & Whetstone
251 bus stops on Totteridge Common near the junction with Hendon Wood Lane.
8.30-10.30pm
Hendon wood Lane entrance to totteridge Fields Nature Reserve
Contact – Clive Cohen – 07973 825 165 – notinbooks.conservation@btinternet.com
The National are one of my favourite all time bands. Their music full of deep seductive murmuring and soaring strings, cure The National build a beautiful soundscape full of urban discontent and lost loves.
I wouldn’t blame you for thinking that Devotchka have wandered straight out an Eastern European shtetl with their romani/ klezmer-tastic music. In fact they’re from Colorado and you probably recognise their orchestral treats from Everything is Illuminated and Little Miss Sunshine.
Wednesday 12th August
Woodpigeon at Borderline, London
Woodpigeon is whispery folk with beautiful strings and brass. Perfect for a summer evening.
Thursday 13th August
Circulus at The Lexington, London
Tired of the ins and outs of modern life? Do you want to return to a simpler time? A medieval time? Go see Circulus then! They’re quite obviously as mad as a bag of prog listening cats but they sing about fairies and have lutes- what couldn’t be awesome about that?
Friday 14th August
Forest Fire and Broadcast 2000 at The Luminaire, London
Lovely country folk from Brooklyn’s Forest Fire and tinkly electronica from Broadcast 2000 are set to make this night special!
Saturday 15th August
Spaghetti Anywhere and Colours at Barfly, London
Here at Amelia’s HQ we often find ourselves listening to Spaghetti Anywhere‘s myspace selection of pretty indie pop, and it never fails to brighten up a dreary office day.
Also playing are Colours the South Coast’s answer to My Bloody Valentine, offering up a delicious slice of Shoegaze with Pavement-y undertones. Brilliant stuff all round!
Yet another diverse and inspired collection, the first model appeared wearing a silk muzzle with a graphic pattern. These unusual face decorations featured prominently in the show. Printed, bejewelled, moulded from the shape of the face – it was clear they were making a statement. “It’s my reaction to climate change,” Bernard told me afterwards. It’s a provoking image we’re accustomed to seeing – during the SARS crisis and more recently with the swine-flu pandemic. Chandran has translated this evocative image and created masks of beauty.
Dresses were striking, bold statement pieces, in hues ranging from ochre to pewter. Folds and flaps created geometric silhouettes, showcasing Chandran’s skills as a craftsman, and revealing a possible Hussein Chalayan influence.
Other pieces consisted of simple shift dresses enveloped by folded, dynamically-cut fabric, creating exaggerated shoulders and wing-like forms, apposing the contours of the female form.
I loved this glittered interpretation of the bustier. Fashion-forward women only, need apply:
Patterns on masks and clothing had been translated directly from objects that surround Bernard in his day-to-day life. A stunning linear print in amber and black had been taken directly from “a basket that people give [Bernard} flowers in!” Bernard recalled. Looking again at the print makes sense of it – it appears almost photographic.
Another key look was the Chinese coolie hat, worn by a handful of models. Bernard in interesting in their form. “I like the way they fold, the way they are created – which can be said for a lot of my work,” Bernard told me. “The way an envelope folds, for example – like here,” as he gestured to a photograph on the wall backstage of a structured, geometric dress.
The more feminine consumer need not worry, as the show also included elegantly draped smock dresses and sumptuous blouson skirts, in chiffon, with organic, natural prints. These pieces were the most surprising considering his A/W 09/10 collection was so bold and striking. “Sometimes you just have to,” Bernard laughed.
There were so many different looks in this collection. It may sound as if the pieces were too disparate but this was not the case, as one after the other complimented each other, almost magically. Take the structured dress with exaggerated hips, fast becoming Bernard’s signature, juxtaposed with the softer sheer fabric pieces draped effortlessly over the models; juxtaposed with the hooded smock reminiscent, again, of an envelope; the prints and tones of each piece somehow beautifully transforming into the next.
Soul singer Estelle is a huge fan of Chandran’s work, shunning major fashion houses to wear his looks at awards ceremonies, so it was no surprise to see Destiny’s Child’s Michelle Williams and Beverley Knight wide-eyed on the front row. A Bernard Chandran woman is a glamorous, confident, ostentatious creature. It’s time this design hero took centre stage on-schedule. Sort it out, BFC!
All photographs and text by Matt Bramford The 25th London Fashion Week began yesterday in its new haunt of Somerset House. Turning up to register, viagra there was the expected photo crush as numerous street style photographers selected those most fashionably dressed to stand before their lens. Not surprisingly London Fashion Week has been a lesson on how to be scarily on trend. Leather studded Jackets check. Harem pants in black and multiple prints. Check. Statement shoes check.check.check. Big Power Shoulders. Check. The most amazing outfit –outside the catwalk- was on the front row at Ashley Islam (more to come on this collection later). Sitting next to Michelle Williams from Destiny’s Child immaculat in Vivienne, sildenafil was a rather beautiful man with an Anna Wintour bob,
complete with a dress made from nails. This often disregarded material was transformed into the ultimate disco dress, that tinkled out of shows.
The Prose Studio Collection of bold oil slick printed dresses was first down the catwalk. The feminine fluent dresses billowed around the models, falling down from the neck, along the arms and tacking tightly in at the waist to fall once more to the knees.
Remember blowing paint across water’s surface to create marbling patterns when pressed onto paper? Prose Studio’s harem pants felt as if the fabric had been dipped into the solution and hung out to dry. The drapes of the pants were delicately covered leaving the leg fabric bare.
The collection finished with a free flowing printed white tunic over white marbled dripped leggings.
Next up were Michela Carraro’s deconstructed geishas complete with rags tied into bondage shoes, big 80′s shoulders remain on the catwalk alongside constructed sheer blouses.
The shapes and layering were reminiscent of John Galliano’s personal style and diffusion line with an injection of Vivienne Westwood’s pirate’s collection. As the light blue piece sashayed down the catwalk, it suddenly struck.
What was being offered was a re-invention of a feminine suit, capable of expressing personality rather than smothering it underneath a shapeless blazer. This was a collection representing the intriguing daywear as represented with the gallantly bold, bordering on the garish printed trousers, under tucked beneath the swashbuckling floating blouses held together at the front with delicate stitching. Completed with the bandaged shoes, the piece formed an illustrious silhouette when framed by photographers.
Third was Joanna Wanderpuije’s elegant collection of modern shapes complete with the return of the perspex stars from the A/W collection, for S/S the stars are attached to the hips of the cotton skirt. Plenty of well cut shorts and printed tanks for effortless lux.
Leather bra tops – continuing previous seasons’ trends for underwear as outwear- hardened the collection appearing under a cropped print jacket nestling above the high-waisted cream trouser. A splash of colour was provided with the up-pleated tunic dress. The collection was incredible wearable with Wanderpuije’s prints elegant in their application and beautifully sculpted from material.
Fashion provides the opportunity to dive into new worlds, peer into another’s imagination. It can function similarly to illustration and convey a sense of being in the world and by being idiosyncratic tap into the public consciousness. The last piece from Yang Du‘s collection was one distinctive outfit from the Louis Vitton-esque rabbit ears combined with bold blue and white striped constructed-to-be-slouchy oversized dress.
The outfit instantly burned into the retina, this was something to wear as unemployment rates soar, it’s warm and it’s bright. This was fun fantastical fashion and I loved the oversized knitted bag that followed the models down the catwalk as if a rather petulant child.
As with all three previous designers, at Yang Du it was all about the detailing; tunic dresses were altered with cut away bra holes overlaid with fringing. Grinning cartoon faces contrasted wide blue knitted stripes, tight tight dresses were sent down with bold geometric black and white prints. Not forgetting the head adornments.
A great start to London Fashion Week, a mix of eccentricity and wearable shapes with most importantly the clothes bringing a smile to one’s face.
For me, web the majority of fashion week involved being squished like a sardine in regimented rows watching models strut up and down a well lit runway. While this is all well and good, sometimes it’s fun to break from the norm…
from what I can gauge, Nasir Mazhar is a headwear designer, with very theatrical taste.
To view his presentation at London Fashion Week s/s10 we descended into the vaults of Somerset House, entering a strobe lit room, where at the end of the corridor a stunning and SEXY model posed around a pole in an almost fetichistic nude mask that covered her mouth and eyes……
This was the opening taste of the world of Nasir Mazhar that is visceral, amusing, unique and downright hot. As I am predominately a photographer, I feel the images illustrate the experience better than anything I could write!
All photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
For me, visit web the majority of fashion week involved being squished like a sardine in regimented rows watching models strut up and down a well lit runway. While this is all well and good, sickness sometimes it’s fun to break from the norm…
To view his presentation at London Fashion Week s/s10 we descended into the vaults of Somerset House, entering a strobe lit room, where at the end of the corridor a stunning and SEXY model posed around a pole in an almost fetichistic nude mask that covered her mouth and eyes……
This was the opening taste of the world of Nasir Mazhar that is visceral, amusing, unique and downright hot. As I am predominately a photographer, I feel the images illustrate the experience better than anything I could write!
All photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
The Four Seasons Charity Show was in aid of Oxfam and the British Heart Foundation. The design brief consisted of buying charity shop clothes and styling or adapting them into something new and stylish. As a textiles student I embraced the customisation route: deconstructing, seek reconstructing, find decorating, this site sewing, pleating, ruffling and so on until I could unveil works which were truly mine.
The collection made its way down the catwalk, and to my greatest delight, people enquired about buying the pieces. Encouraged by this I am incorporating a recyclable theme into my A2 textiles, which induced designer research. Focusing on using items considered as junk and turning them into fashionable and hopefully wearable pieces. Some of the designers I investigated include People Tree, Katharine E Hamnett’s slogan t-shirts, and Edun. All of their manifestos contain aspects of Fairtrade, organic resources, sustainability or tackling of other global issues.
Katharine E Hamnett promotes her campaigns on the consumer’s organic cotton (manufactured under tight ethical standards) chest: Free Burma, World Peace to Save the Seas. Hamnett presents her political beliefs and encourages us to do the same.
Edun focuses on creating sustainable employment in developing countries, specifically sub-Saharan Africa. Just from these two brands you can see the multiple schemes that have been put into place to begin tackling global issues – they just need more recognition.
I first experienced the concept of eco-fashion – typically – as a younger sister, when presented with my older sister’s hand-me-downs. At the time, I was probably disappointed by the lack of brand new clothing, and yet now the wearing of second-hand has become more fashionable than ever. Take the explosion of vintage clothing and the increasing presence of designers who re-use old clothes to make new creations, such as the brand Junky Styling. In more recent years my interest in eco-fashion has expanded from an initially disgruntled youth to advocator of Ethical Sustainable Fashion.
This passion for re-making and vintage stems from television shows such as Twiggy’s Frock Exchange, and local fashion workshops, which I help to run as part of The Cambridge Design Collective. The workshops provide tips such as: turning old dresses into handbags, or learning how to distress jeans. The amount of people who have become involved and the techniques I have subsequently learnt demonstrate that we do not need mass production. We just need to get together and be a little more creative!
In Frock Exchange, Twiggy encouraged the mass consumers of the UK to stalk out previously owned garments and transform them into beautiful bespoke items. The moment which propelled me into a world of eco-friendly fashion arrived in the role of a floral, floor-length Laura Ashley dress. The item was altered into the most amazing mini dress before Britain’s eyes. Energised by the programme I began to participate in clothes swaps and search for the independent retailers of my local town who do not mass-produce.
My research revealed sustainable resources, such as the amazing Emporium 61, a boutique charity shop, which stocks vintage and even sells top brands such as Miu Miu and Prada. The shop also sells redesigned second hand clothing under the label 50/50. Cambridge has a lot of charity shops, independent outlets and vintage clothing, and yet so few people seem to know about them – something I hope to change by helping to publicise these stores better.
The achievement you feel when an item is successfully given a new lease of life, or at knowing your small decision is one tiny step towards helping the world (whether it be anti-child labour, or increasing climate change awareness), is definitely motivation to decrease high street consumerism. The High Street may hope it doesn’t use slave labour, child labour, unsustainable resources and more – but can you really imagine anything less fuels this mass producer? And what happens to all the clothes that aren’t sold? Huge piles of waste clothing?
Eco – Fashion requires effort and if we really want to combat climate change and abuse of worker’s rights isn’t it worth it? Especially when you discover a hidden gem such as locally stocked labels: Rutzou or Milly Moy.
I believe eco-fashion can be fashionable: even London Fashion Week has its own eco-friendly selection in its Esthetica exhibition! Of course some charity shops may still bear the stereotypical musty image, but if you look closely enough and do a little transformation you’d be amazed. If you’re not a designer yourself try a clothes swap, or vintage shopping in the beautiful Brick Lane of London – a perfect excuse if ever I heard one.
Written by Camilla Sampson on Wednesday October 7th, 2009 4:29 pm
Imagery throughout courtesy of HannahMakesThings.com
With each and every item designed and ‘created with love’ by Hannah herself in her Manchester workshop, ailmentHannahmakesthings.com is the perfect place to find unique accessories. Crafted using a mixture of new, doctor accumulated and vintage materials, about it each distinctive design is the epitome of limited edition loveliness.
After graduating from the prestigious Central Saint Martins college with an MA in Industrial Design in 2007, Hannah’s eccentric style and ‘magpie’ like eye for treasures ensured her quirky jewellery collection’s success.
Her up and coming brand kick-started it’s career in London’s trendy Brick Lane; but it was the launch of her playful website that catapulted her cute and quirky charms into the fashion spotlight. She now has a sell-out collection for online powerhouse ASOS under her belt and continues to trade from her Manchester based boutique/studio; ‘Hannah makes things’ – located in the world-renowned indie shopping emporium ‘Afflecks’.
The eclectic mix of goodies found on the delicious website include an array of retro-chic necklaces, and if shoulder pads aren’t your style, why not embrace the eighties comeback with your accessories? We love the miniature nostalgia-inducing Gameboy charm, the ‘oh so cute’ paint palette pendant and the fully functional Rubik’s cube necklace – pretty and practical.
Adorable, love declaring necklaces are another recurring theme (leave the page up on your boyfriend’s computer ahead of Valentines… Job done!) The gorgeous golden heart pendant that whispers ‘I love you’ in various languages, or the tiny envelope harbouring a secret love letter, will seem that much sweeter if somebody else has bought it for you.
But what if Cupid’s arrow has lost its way? Do not despair, the kitsch tattoo-style Hello Sailor pendant and the mischievous French I say yes! or ‘Oui!’ necklace speak for their flirtatious selves.
If a touch of romance doesn’t satisfy your sweet tooth; you can always choose from a delightful assortment of sugary pendants that are good enough to eat. Pick ‘n’ mix from a selection of doughnuts, tea-party biscuits, mouth watering ice-cream cones and an old fashioned gumball machine that will have you reminiscing of merry-go-round memories and childhood trips to the seaside. All guilt-free treats you can enjoy without worrying about your waistline or your bank manager.
Written by Bekkie Gilbert on Wednesday February 10th, 2010 2:54 pm
Imagery throughout courtesy of HannahMakesThings.com
With each and every item designed and ‘created with love’ by Hannah herself in her Manchester workshop, Hannahmakesthings.com is the perfect place to find unique accessories. Crafted using a mixture of new, accumulated and vintage materials, each distinctive design is the epitome of limited edition loveliness.
After graduating from the prestigious Central Saint Martins college with an MA in Industrial Design in 2007, Hannah’s eccentric style and ‘magpie’ like eye for treasures ensured her quirky jewellery collection’s success.
Her up and coming brand kick-started it’s career in London’s trendy Brick Lane; but it was the launch of her playful website that catapulted her cute and quirky charms into the fashion spotlight. She now has a sell-out collection for online powerhouse ASOS under her belt and continues to trade from her Manchester based boutique/studio; ‘Hannah makes things’ – located in the world-renowned indie shopping emporium ‘Afflecks’.
The eclectic mix of goodies found on the delicious website include an array of retro-chic necklaces, and if shoulder pads aren’t your style, why not embrace the eighties comeback with your accessories? We love the miniature nostalgia-inducing Gameboy charm, the ‘oh so cute’ paint palette pendant and the fully functional Rubik’s cube necklace – pretty and practical.
Adorable, love declaring necklaces are another recurring theme (leave the page up on your boyfriend’s computer ahead of Valentines… Job done!) The gorgeous golden heart pendant that whispers ‘I love you’ in various languages, or the tiny envelope harbouring a secret love letter, will seem that much sweeter if somebody else has bought it for you.
But what if Cupid’s arrow has lost its way? Do not despair, the kitsch tattoo-style Hello Sailor pendant and the mischievous French I say yes! or ‘Oui!’ necklace speak for their flirtatious selves.
If a touch of romance doesn’t satisfy your sweet tooth; you can always choose from a delightful assortment of sugary pendants that are good enough to eat. Pick ‘n’ mix from a selection of doughnuts, tea-party biscuits, mouth watering ice-cream cones and an old fashioned gumball machine that will have you reminiscing of merry-go-round memories and childhood trips to the seaside. All guilt-free treats you can enjoy without worrying about your waistline or your bank manager.
Written by Bekkie Gilbert on Wednesday February 10th, 2010 2:54 pm
Imagery throughout courtesy of I Dream of Wires, viagra 100mgtry styled by Lou Greenwood and photographed by Valerie Phillips at Serlin Associates.
I Dream of Wires may not be the most indicative of names, look but it certainly grabbed my attention. Do wires symbolise threads? Is it about clothing? Does it indicate the use of the internet for online shopping? Or do wires have nothing to do with it at all? Maybe they don’t, store and herein lies the mystery.
I Dream of Wires is a former kitsch East London store, who now solely sell via their online shop specialising in both own label and vintage stock. It caters for the edgy fashion lover, someone who doesn’t necessarily follow fashion, but just knows what they are looking for.
The I Dream of Wires online shop was set up in 2008 by couple and business duo Lou Winwood and Pete Voss, who are both inspired by vintage, eccentric fashions, and have a keen eye for exciting pieces. The duo each bring something different to the table, with Winwood sourcing great 80’s pieces and Voss heading up menswear.
With a celebrity clientele reading like a whos-who of East London hipsters, ranging from cool bands The Teenagers and The Black Kids to Peaches Geldof and Julien Barrett of The Mighty Boosh, hype cannot be far away.
When perusing the website the vintage section initially sucked me in. There is something about vintage pieces that instinctively makes my mouse gravitate in their direction and click. I wasn’t disappointed. With only a small selection of vintage garments available at present, they were truly great pieces, and everything was reasonably (as opposed to high-street-vintage) priced – proving the old adage of quality over quantity.
Memories of the old store include the 80’s high shine shoulder padded dresses, as well as the plethora of cute Disney t-shirts and that staple of 90s attire: the bumbag. With each piece being hand selected for its wearability and edgy-coolness, I Dream of Wires is an art student’s dream.
The own label stuff is also trés exciting and the small selection makes it seem even more exclusive and unique. These pieces are 100% recycled garments made from jazzy vintage fabrics, similar to those stocked in the vintage store. There are mish-mashed jumpsuits, playsuits and a landslide of leggings all featuring that luscious high shine 80’s Lurex, growing increasing popular with the current resurgence in 80’s fashion. The accessories department has metallic bum bags galore and airline hats perfect for positioning at a jaunty, ironic angle.
Although vintage stores are now a tad old hat (excuse the pun), I Dream of Wires is trying to do something different which results in something unique, aesthetically pleasing and above all – admirable. As a visitor you get the impression that the owners have poured their personal taste and personalities into their business by the bucket load, and with a new decade dawning it looks set to pay off dividends.
Written by Becky Cope on Tuesday February 9th, 2010 2:21 pm
As if we needed any more proof that shoes are a form of art, online shoe connoisseurs, Javari held a dazzling exhibition over the weekend, showcasing highly desirable footwear designed by some of the world’s most prominent designers.
Nicholas Kirkwood Alice in Wonderland Heels by Eccabin.
From the practical to the not so practical, men and women alike have been fascinated with the enchanting allure of shoes ever since cavemen figured out that walking around barefoot wasn’t exactly ideal. As a day to day essential, our little tootsies would be truly lost without the good old shoe, but we all know that societies love for footwear goes a little deeper than a mere practicality designed to get you from A to B.
If there’s one thing that any self-respecting girl (or boy) knows, it’s the unstoppable power of well placed shoe. Clearly something the likes of Gareth Pugh, Christian Louboutin and Nina Ricciare all fully aware of. The exhibition was like a sweet shop for all fans of fancy footwear. Each shoe was presented within a structured cubic stand, mirroring the dramatic silhouettes of the shoes themselves, not to mention the mathematical genius surely required for creating such sky-scrapingly tall heels.
Gareth Pugh for Beyonce.
Katie Eary for Nike.
Nicholas Kirkwood for Alice in Wonderland.
The exhibition was truly a feast for the eyes drawing together three sections: Fashion’s Catwalk Spectacle, Couture Clientele and Innovative Design, all of which presented one-off pieces by the likes of Katie Eary for Nike, Nina Ricci for Daphne Guinness and Christian Louboutin for Rodarte.
Run the World (Girls)
The shoes and boots sparkled in all their glory, whilst Gareth Pugh’s giant gold stompers dominated the Couture Clientele section, just as Beyoncé did when she debuted them in her Run the World video. Catching my eye, along with countless others no doubt, was the enchanting Alice in Wonderland Heels by Nicholas Kirkwood; intricately designed teacups, keys and chequerboard print heels were just as captivating as Lewis Carroll’s novel itself, delivering attention to detail like I’ve never seen before.
Rupert Sanderson for Aida.
Niamh O’Conner & Emily Crane.
Sophie Grace Webster for Manolo Blahnik.
Shoes for Show did exactly what it says on the tin: these shoes are solely for show, not for touching and definitely not for trying on! It turns out many people at the exhibition didn’t quite grasp this concept, as a few sawdust-between-the-ears individuals asked if they could put their very own feet in these one-of-a-kind creations. I do sympathise with said individuals as I admit, it was a struggle keeping my hands off Meadham Kirchhoff’s green and pink glitter pom-pom wedges designed by Nicholas Kirkwood for S/S 2012.
Nicholas Kirkwood for Meadham Kirchhoff by Justyna Sowa.
Fashion over function was the resounding message at the exhibition as I witnessed first-hand some of the craziest, but utterly beautiful designs ever to grace the human foot. The tallest heel in the world came courtesy of Christian Louboutin’s freakishly high ballet pumps designed this year exclusively for the English National Ballet. We were also treated to a miniature version of Alexander McQueen’s Armadillo shoe: the extraordinary curve design footwear that you’ll all remember Lady Gaga teetering around in in last year’s Bad Romance video.
Bad Romance
Christian Louboutin for Royal Ballet.
Minature McQueen Armadillo.
Terry de Havilland for Ana Matronic.
Terry de Havilland for Agent Provocateur.
Fusing fashion and art, the exhibition presented a rare chance to see some of the most exclusive couture pieces of the last two centuries: pieces that have graced the feet of some of the most iconic stars of this generation. Though we all view and admire shoes for more than just their function, Shoes for Show took this admiration to a whole new level, appreciating footwear for its spectacle alone; a spectacle definitely not made for walking!
Written by Sarah Deane on Monday November 14th, 2011 10:14 am
For the second season Busardi showed in London, this time taking to the catwalk in the opulent surroundings of a Georgian mansion in Mayfair for Air, a collection inspired by the landscapes of South America. The mother and son team from Thailand had looked to the glaciers of Patagonia, the plunge pools of Iguazu Falls and the pink sand of the deserts in Argentina, ably demonstrating their global outlook.
The Busardi collection was squarely aimed at a glamourous upmarket crowd, with delicate lace details, feathers, brocade and satins aplenty. Subtly tousled hair and finest mesh, chiffons and silks all added to the airy feel, perfect in pretty pastel tones for the garden party set.
I chose my seat because it was next to a glorious marble fireplace decorated with golden rams’ heads (I do love the chance to see inside a fancy gaff)… thus ensuring that my photographs were rubbish, so I’ve used a few by the official photographer. Scroll down for the official video too.
