Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Bunmi Koko

irrespressibles by daria h
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Bunmi Koko was undoubtedly one of my best new discoveries of last season, troche so it was with great anticipation that I sat down for this show next to Lucy Jones – director of Fashion Textiles at the University of East London – who I recognised from the FAD awards last year. Designer Bunmi Olaye is one of her star pupils and in fact still operates out of a studio that the university provides for her. Definitely a big boon for a young designer.

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Andy Bumpus
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Andy Bumpus.

Bunmi prides herself on her business acumen, which was thoroughly present and correct with the large fabric goodie bag stashed under front row seats. Inside mine was a beautifully presented cupcake (soon to be thoughtlessly squashed) as well as an incredibly thorough press pack that included a lovely set of postcards with fashion illustrations of her S/S collection, an explanatory foldout detailing Bunmi’s achievements and inspirations behind Kaleidoscopia, and then to top it all off a mini newspaper: The Bunmi Koko Times. This girl sure knows how to market herself!

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Bunmi’s show began with a short movie – a great idea in theory but a bit odd in practice – involving as it did some clubby graphics and James Bond-ish silhouettes. I wasn’t really sure what it contributed to the whole. Then the show was off with a run – and when I say run I really do mean run. The models were moving quickly at most shows, but at Bunmi’s they were moving at such a lick that it was nigh on impossible to capture them through a lens.

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

It’s a good thing I like to capture models on the hop rather than front on like the paps. The clubby graphics – inspired by rainbows, supernovas and mirages – splashed across wide tutus, wrap dresses and clutch bags. I particularly liked the clever of use of futuristic ruching over shoulders and across breastbones.

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

I loved the elegant purple suit and an eye-popping orange woolly dress, which bounced down the catwalk in a spray of moth-orgasmic fluff. I wasn’t so keen on the metallic leather pieces, which looked cheap by comparison.

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Andy Bumpus
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Andy Bumpus.

Despite the clever styling with diamante encrusted visors, Kaleidoscopia felt far less cohesive than her last collection and left me wondering what exactly the Bunmi aesthetic is. It was all over so quickly that I hardly had time to digest it before Bunmi herself spilled out onto the catwalk, grinning broadly and sporting a t-shirt for Fill The Cup – a fashion range that will send profits to feed hungry children across the world. The conclusion? Good work from a promising young designer, but needs refining.

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Andrew Bumpus, ,Andy Bumpus, ,Bunmi Koko, ,Bunmi Olaye, ,FAD Awards, ,Fashion Scout, ,Fashion Textiles, ,Fill The Cup, ,James Bond, ,Kaleidoscopia, ,lfw, ,Liam McMahon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucy Jones, ,The Bunmi Koko Times, ,Toni Bowater, ,University of East London

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Bunmi Koko

irrespressibles by daria h
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Bunmi Koko was undoubtedly one of my best new discoveries of last season, troche so it was with great anticipation that I sat down for this show next to Lucy Jones – director of Fashion Textiles at the University of East London – who I recognised from the FAD awards last year. Designer Bunmi Olaye is one of her star pupils and in fact still operates out of a studio that the university provides for her. Definitely a big boon for a young designer.

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Andy Bumpus
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Andy Bumpus.

Bunmi prides herself on her business acumen, which was thoroughly present and correct with the large fabric goodie bag stashed under front row seats. Inside mine was a beautifully presented cupcake (soon to be thoughtlessly squashed) as well as an incredibly thorough press pack that included a lovely set of postcards with fashion illustrations of her S/S collection, an explanatory foldout detailing Bunmi’s achievements and inspirations behind Kaleidoscopia, and then to top it all off a mini newspaper: The Bunmi Koko Times. This girl sure knows how to market herself!

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Bunmi’s show began with a short movie – a great idea in theory but a bit odd in practice – involving as it did some clubby graphics and James Bond-ish silhouettes. I wasn’t really sure what it contributed to the whole. Then the show was off with a run – and when I say run I really do mean run. The models were moving quickly at most shows, but at Bunmi’s they were moving at such a lick that it was nigh on impossible to capture them through a lens.

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

It’s a good thing I like to capture models on the hop rather than front on like the paps. The clubby graphics – inspired by rainbows, supernovas and mirages – splashed across wide tutus, wrap dresses and clutch bags. I particularly liked the clever of use of futuristic ruching over shoulders and across breastbones.

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

I loved the elegant purple suit and an eye-popping orange woolly dress, which bounced down the catwalk in a spray of moth-orgasmic fluff. I wasn’t so keen on the metallic leather pieces, which looked cheap by comparison.

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Andy Bumpus
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011 by Andy Bumpus.

Despite the clever styling with diamante encrusted visors, Kaleidoscopia felt far less cohesive than her last collection and left me wondering what exactly the Bunmi aesthetic is. It was all over so quickly that I hardly had time to digest it before Bunmi herself spilled out onto the catwalk, grinning broadly and sporting a t-shirt for Fill The Cup – a fashion range that will send profits to feed hungry children across the world. The conclusion? Good work from a promising young designer, but needs refining.

Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryBunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Bunmi Koko A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Andrew Bumpus, ,Andy Bumpus, ,Bunmi Koko, ,Bunmi Olaye, ,FAD Awards, ,Fashion Scout, ,Fashion Textiles, ,Fill The Cup, ,James Bond, ,Kaleidoscopia, ,lfw, ,Liam McMahon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucy Jones, ,The Bunmi Koko Times, ,Toni Bowater, ,University of East London

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Jasper Garvida (by Amelia)

Emily Jane White by LJG Art & Illustration
Illustration by Laura Godfrey, troche link LG Illustration

I know that folk music isn’t all organic, ambulance whole foods, pill and love – or indeed deep lust – buried in a haystack. Happy all day, before campfires and passions at night. No, folk musicians don’t spend their days wearing slightly grubby lumberjacks or floaty, ethereal frocks. See evidence: Grizzly Bear aren’t happy all the time and Bon Iver is a delightfully melancholy chap. And then just listen to Nick Drake and young Laura Marling. To be honest I’m not really sure where I got the skippy, clappy, dancing in the hazy afternoon sunshine vision from. Perhaps it’s because folk artists tend to sing about the earth, nature and love in one breath. There is no chat of ‘honeys’ or ‘bling’. Gah, And of course, folkers may be generally creative and appreciative of the natural world, but it in no means leaves them exempt of sadness, hurt and darkness. I wonder, does it in actual fact make them more open and adept to describing their feelings than the blingers? Regardless, folk is often as rhythmic and warming as the grandfather clock that my 40s’ Grandpa chopped the bottom of, to fit in his house. Tick, tock. Folk is cosy and true, which is why it feels so pure – which is why it makes me want to reside in a yurt.

Emily Jane White - Sarah Matthews
Illustration by Sarah Matthews

Let me introduce you to Emily Jane White. The PR sheet in-front of me says that her album is: ‘a collection of ten opulent, uncluttered and captivating ballads.’ A friend asked me other day, “If you had to only use one adjective for the rest of your life, what would it be?” If I was a news writer, I would say: “Peh, what even are adjectives?”. As a PR I would pass out. Whilst as a writer of my own devices, I would say – ‘blissful’. Then I could put ‘anti’ in-front of a word perhaps. Awkward. Anyway, off on a tangent again: Emily Jane White’s music is BLISSFUL.

See:

She is melancholy. But in the way that makes you feel perhaps strangely, very contented. Maybe it is because in a sense Emily is making peace with herself and her thoughts through the act of writing her music. She said that she found writing her latest album, Ode To Sentience, out now on Talitres Records, cathartic to write: “They speak to the emotional simplicity and complexity of human relationship. I chose to call the record Ode To Sentience because it is the capacity to feel that creates a share human experience of music. We all share the potency of music by having the capacity to feel, and I found the simplicity of this fact very beautiful.”

‘Tis true.

emily Jane White
Illustration by Laura Godfrey, LG Illustration

Her album is about leaving home, her’s was California – I Lay To Rest (California) – the drawn out strings longing to leave. The sharper notes; the sadness of leaving it. Clipped Wings is ghostly and full of yearning, reflections of love’s passed. The Cliff holds classic American twangs, whilst Oh Katherine, is a string filled heaven of a song. Her voice is as soft and delicate as a peach, whilst her fearless approach to singing from the darker depths of her consciousness matches the strings perfectly.

She is much like a Californian Kate Bush, but less obviously ethereal and screaming. Or she could be a gentler Alela Diane or singular Mountain Man. Black Silk has to be my personal favourite. The Law is guitar based, slow and… actually quite a lot like my Grandpa’s Grandfather clock. It wraps you up. Says it’s all ok. For a little bit of this, here we have ‘The Law’, for you to download for free: here. Download it now.

emily

Emily Jane White’s Album, Ode to Sentience is available now on Talitres Records.

Emily Jane White by LJG Art & Illustration
Illustration by Laura Godfrey, visit this LG Illustration

I know that folk music isn’t all organic, price whole foods, advice and love – or indeed deep lust – buried in a haystack. Happy all day, before campfires and passions at night. No, folk musicians don’t spend their days wearing slightly grubby lumberjacks or floaty, ethereal frocks. See evidence: Grizzly Bear aren’t happy all the time and Bon Iver is a delightfully melancholy chap. And then just listen to Nick Drake and young Laura Marling. To be honest I’m not really sure where I got the skippy, clappy, dancing in the hazy afternoon sunshine vision from. Perhaps it’s because folk artists tend to sing about the earth, nature and love in one breath. There is no chat of ‘honeys’ or ‘bling’. Gah, And of course, folkers may be generally creative and appreciative of the natural world, but it in no means leaves them exempt of sadness, hurt and darkness. I wonder, does it in actual fact make them more open and adept to describing their feelings than the blingers? Regardless, folk is often as rhythmic and warming as the grandfather clock that my 40s’ Grandpa chopped the bottom of, to fit in his house. Tick, tock. Folk is cosy and true, which is why it feels so pure – which is why it makes me want to reside in a yurt.

Emily Jane White - Sarah Matthews
Illustration by Sarah Matthews

Let me introduce you to Emily Jane White. The PR sheet in-front of me says that her album is: ‘a collection of ten opulent, uncluttered and captivating ballads.’ A friend asked me other day, “If you had to only use one adjective for the rest of your life, what would it be?” If I was a news writer, I would say: “Peh, what even are adjectives?”. As a PR I would pass out. Whilst as a writer of my own devices, I would say – ‘blissful’. Then I could put ‘anti’ in-front of a word perhaps. Awkward. Anyway, off on a tangent again: Emily Jane White’s music is BLISSFUL.

See:

She is melancholy. But in the way that makes you feel perhaps strangely, very contented. Maybe it is because in a sense Emily is making peace with herself and her thoughts through the act of writing her music. She said that she found writing her latest album, Ode To Sentience, out now on Talitres Records, cathartic to write: “They speak to the emotional simplicity and complexity of human relationship. I chose to call the record Ode To Sentience because it is the capacity to feel that creates a share human experience of music. We all share the potency of music by having the capacity to feel, and I found the simplicity of this fact very beautiful.”

‘Tis true.

emily Jane White
Illustration by Laura Godfrey, LG Illustration

Her album is about leaving home, her’s was California – I Lay To Rest (California) – the drawn out strings longing to leave. The sharper notes; the sadness of leaving it. Clipped Wings is ghostly and full of yearning, reflections of love’s passed. The Cliff holds classic American twangs, whilst Oh Katherine, is a string filled heaven of a song. Her voice is as soft and delicate as a peach, whilst her fearless approach to singing from the darker depths of her consciousness matches the strings perfectly.

She is much like a Californian Kate Bush, but less obviously ethereal and screaming. Or she could be a gentler Alela Diane or singular Mountain Man. Black Silk has to be my personal favourite. The Law is guitar based, slow and… actually quite a lot like my Grandpa’s Grandfather clock. It wraps you up. Says it’s all ok. For a little bit of this, here we have ‘The Law’, for you to download for free: here. Download it now.

emily

Emily Jane White’s Album, Ode to Sentience is available now on Talitres Records.

Emily Jane White by LJG Art & Illustration
Illustration by Laura Godfrey, look LG Illustration

I know that folk music isn’t all organic, doctor whole foods, and love – or indeed deep lust – buried in a haystack. Happy all day, before campfires and passions at night. No, folk musicians don’t spend their days wearing slightly grubby lumberjacks or floaty, ethereal frocks. See evidence: Grizzly Bear aren’t happy all the time and Bon Iver is a delightfully melancholy chap. And then just listen to Nick Drake and young Laura Marling. To be honest I’m not really sure where I got the skippy, clappy, dancing in the hazy afternoon sunshine vision from. Perhaps it’s because folk artists tend to sing about the earth, nature and love in one breath. There is no chat of ‘honeys’ or ‘bling’. Gah, And of course, folkers may be generally creative and appreciative of the natural world, but it in no means leaves them exempt of sadness, hurt and darkness. I wonder, does it in actual fact make them more open and adept to describing their feelings than the blingers? Regardless, folk is often as rhythmic and warming as the grandfather clock that my 40s’ Grandpa chopped the bottom of, to fit in his house. Tick, tock. Folk is cosy and true, which is why it feels so pure – which is why it makes me want to reside in a yurt.

Emily Jane White - Sarah Matthews
Illustration by Sarah Matthews

Let me introduce you to Emily Jane White. The PR sheet in-front of me says that her album is: ‘a collection of ten opulent, uncluttered and captivating ballads.’ A friend asked me other day, “If you had to only use one adjective for the rest of your life, what would it be?” If I was a news writer, I would say: “Peh, what even are adjectives?”. As a PR I would pass out. Whilst as a writer of my own devices, I would say – ‘blissful’. Then I could put ‘anti’ in-front of a word perhaps. Awkward. Anyway, off on a tangent again: Emily Jane White’s music is BLISSFUL.

See:

She is melancholy. But in the way that makes you feel perhaps strangely, very contented. Maybe it is because in a sense Emily is making peace with herself and her thoughts through the act of writing her music. She said that she found writing her latest album, Ode To Sentience, out now on Talitres Records, cathartic to write: “They speak to the emotional simplicity and complexity of human relationship. I chose to call the record Ode To Sentience because it is the capacity to feel that creates a share human experience of music. We all share the potency of music by having the capacity to feel, and I found the simplicity of this fact very beautiful.”

‘Tis true.

emily Jane White
Illustration by Laura Godfrey, LG Illustration

Her album is about leaving home, her’s was California – I Lay To Rest (California) – the drawn out strings longing to leave. The sharper notes; the sadness of leaving it. Clipped Wings is ghostly and full of yearning, reflections of love’s passed. The Cliff holds classic American twangs, whilst Oh Katherine, is a string filled heaven of a song. Her voice is as soft and delicate as a peach, whilst her fearless approach to singing from the darker depths of her consciousness matches the strings perfectly.

She is much like a Californian Kate Bush, but less obviously ethereal and screaming. Or she could be a gentler Alela Diane or singular Mountain Man. Black Silk has to be my personal favourite. The Law is guitar based, slow and… actually quite a lot like my Grandpa’s Grandfather clock. It wraps you up. Says it’s all ok. For a little bit of this, here we have ‘The Law’, for you to download for free: here. Download it now.

emily

Emily Jane White’s Album, Ode to Sentience is available now on Talitres Records.


Illustration by Lesley Barnes

So Saturday morning – day two of London Fashion Week – started off brilliantly. It was p*ssing it down, medicine the tyre on my bike had deflated itself twice and I didn’t have a clue what I was doing. Gallantly, search if I do say so myself, I hot-stepped it to work to put some articles together, and then when it was time made my way to The Show Space on Northumberland Avenue (where I had been the previous day to view Jean Pierre Braganza’s collection) armed with an umbrella.

Unfortunately, the rest of London’s fashion population were also armed with umbrellas (despite wearing some outfits best saved for hot Summer evenings – gah) and queuing was a bit of a nightmare. Luckily I bumped into my pal Sabrina from The Science of Style, and we huddled together in the queue and waited. And waited. And waited some more. Eventually a call was made for orange stickers and we were ushered inside, and while we waited even more for the show to start, Sabrina filled me in on the gossip with some of the front row-ers.


Illustration by Katie Walters

I’ve always liked Bernard’s aesthetic – always vibrant with an exotic feel. This time around didn’t disappoint, and his signature architectural pieces were on form along with some other softer, flattering designs. Blinding hues of magenta and bursts of orange lit up the catwalk (and our cold, damp hearts) which appeared on hooded dresses and were welcomed on on shift dresses with flamboyantly embroidered patterns that looked like heart-monitor graphs, cutting muted grey dresses in half.


Illustration by Lesley Barnes

This being autumn/winter, there was a unsurprising amount of black in the collection (a bugger to photograph alongside acid brights), with one of my favourite pieces in the collection being an enormous cocoon-like knee-length jacket with exaggerated shoulders and geometric details – confirming Chandran’s status as a showman. Other black jackets were sexed up with neon tights and accessories.

Strutured dresses focussed on waists with details with dresses meeting there and extending away from the body – Chandran creates silhouettes that flatter the fashion-forward woman.

The collection progressed with feathered showpieces in rich reds and bright orange – a pure delight – and a red expertly-embellished onesie. But it was back to black to close the show – an all-in-one covered in delicate feathers and jewels – reminding us of Bernard’s exotic heritage and innate attention to detail.

All photography by Matt Bramford

See more of Lesley Barnes’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration. Read Helen’s fab write-up of this show here!

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

As anyone who attends the shows will know, ask guessing who has priority tickets is always an amusing game. Is it the gold star? Surely double gold star is better? Or maybe this season purple or neon yellow signifies top cat for a certain PR? Jasper Garvida tickets certainly had us guessing – we were sent quite a handful, purchase some with green dots on and all with the exciting words VIP. I made an educated guess that VIP with green dot was the most prestigious bet and I got it wrong – green dot was lesser.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi.

So it was that I found myself twiddling my thumbs as a bunch of friendly bloggers were whisked ahead of me, viagra approved all gabbling excitedly about the “washing machine cocktail party” that they had just attended courtesy of Miele, who had then popped them straight in a taxi to the Freemasons Hall where they were ushered onto the front row. At the end of the day the best sticker to have wasn’t VIP at all, it simply had the immortal word Miele stamped on it.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Jasper Garvida‘s A/W 2011 collection was titled Le Baiser, meaning The Kiss, and was inspired by a confluence of East and West. It featured feminine tailoring with a distinctly vintage feel that was emphasised by the glamourous neatly swept up hairstyles and crystal drop earrings by Lucas Jack.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

The strong opening outfit was a gorgeous black cylindrical backless dress, followed by a series of elegant grey numbers that featured cutouts to reveal the hips, thighs and back. Shoulders were draped, dropped and covered in armour-like sliced plastic embellishments that swung lazily as the models walked. Colour broke through in the form of a stunning chartreuse one shouldered dress followed by silky Fornasetti inspired circular prints and a bold giant keyhole placement print on rusty silk. Gigantic ruffles provided a key focus, counter-balancing the precise and beautiful tailoring.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Eventually russet gave way to a searing orangey red, quite definitely the colour of the season, but also in this instance noticeably the colour of the large Miele goodie bags under the front row seats. Without so much as a glance at my press release it was obvious to me that these were sponsored garments. Perfect for this season’s trends, but what happens next time round?

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I left slightly bemused by the tenuous connection between domestic appliances and high fashion, but this was nevertheless a collection to remember. Anyway, as I know only too well, you’ve got to get your sponsorship where you can.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Katie Antoniou’s blog about the same show right here.

Categories ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,jasper garvida, ,Katie Antoniou, ,lfw, ,Lucas Jack, ,Madi, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Miele, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Toni Bowater

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Lako Bukia (by Amelia)

Reluxe by Andrea Kearney
Lako Bukia A/W 2011 by Alison Day
Lako Bukia A/W 2011 by Alison Day.

If proof is needed that fashion illustration can inspire one to fall in love with a fashion designer then I’ve got the perfect story. Having seen and adored Andrea Peterson’s amazing Lako Bukia illustrations from last season I was dead set on seeing the show for myself this time around.

Lako Bukia A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Lako Bukia A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

I immediately recognised the Lako Bukia aesthetic in her new collection, there CHOXA, page inspired by the costume worn by the men of the Georgian National Ballet, viagra which is heavily decorated with metal. Models sported messy side plaits, blood red lips and cartoon black eyes, rounded at the sides… the overall look was sexy but strong and defiant… don’t mess with these ladies who sport bullet holder detailing on breasts, hips and boots.

Lako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 by Karolina Burdon
Lako Bukia A/W 2011 by Karolina Burdon.

Sheer blouses with leather epaulette and collar detailing was followed by perky exposed boobs under large braces… and monochrome colouring gave way to silky peaches, lilacs, creams and caramel tones. Good enough to eat. Sharp militaristic tailoring worked beautifully in combination with floaty fabrics, leather cross straps reigning in chiffon dresses that threatened to overwhelm the models.

Lako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Lako Bukia A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Lako Bukia A/W 2011 by Katie Walters
Lako Bukia A/W 2011 by Katie Walters.

For the finale Lako Bukia strode onto the catwalk with her leading lady – a beautiful modern mermaid, all swishing red chiffon skirts beneath a gold scaled dress. Wearing a simple black dress featuring her trademark pointy shoulders she cut an aspirational dash for the gorgeous curvier lady. It’s so nice to know that clothes like these work just as well on a womanly figure.

Lako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA. Photography by Amelia GregoryLako Bukia A/W 2011 by Alison Day
Lako Bukia A/W 2011 by Alison Day.

You can read Akeela Bhattay’s excellent report of the same show right here.

Categories ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Alison Day, ,Andrea Peterson, ,CHOXA, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Georgian National Ballet, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Katie Walters, ,lako bukia, ,lfw, ,Toni Bowater

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: Christopher Beales

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
I cannot tell a lie: I went into Ada Zanditon‘s presentation with high hopes, information pills especially after I ran a huge pre LFW interview with her describing what to expect from The Cryoflux.

Ada Zanditon The CryofluxAda Zanditon A-W 2011
Ada Zanditon deep in conversation.

On entry to the On/Off space I was ushered towards already packed seats. Ada was deep in conversation on the front row but it was unclear what was going to happen until she urged those near her to get up and touch the clothes, pharmacy arranged on a series of awkward mannequins across one half of the room. At which point everybody got out of their seats and descended on the area at the front, stomach immediately blocking the wall just as her short film started playing. I looked at the clothes briefly, then tried in vain to watch The Cryoflux film over a sea of heads before leaving for another show.

Ada Zanditon The Cryoflux film faceAda Zanditon The Cryoflux film

This was a compact collection compared with previous seasons. Taking inspiration from the extreme climate in Antarctica The Cryoflux features plenty of complex pyramidal cutting, a technique for which Ada Zanditon has become well known. We have already run multiple images of the gorgeous orange red ‘flame’ wool coat, which picks up on a key colour theme for the next season, but the dominant colouring of The Cryoflux was icy blues, whites and a deep navy.

Ada_Zanditon CryofluxAda_Zanditon Cryoflux

My favourite piece was the stunning showpiece dress, replete with a layered waterfall of printed silk inspired by frozen ice formations. I was also struck by a particularly beautiful geometric necklace, another collaboration with Luca Romanyi.

Ada Zanditon The Cryoflux jewellery
Ada Zanditon The Cryoflux jewellery in collaboration with Luca Romanyi.

We have been massive supporters of Ada Zanditon for several years now and we were blown away by her show last season. In short I really like Ada’s design aesthetic and ethical outlook… but I’m afraid that this proved to me once and for all that presentations are a difficult beast to get right. She had spoken of her desire for people to get up close and personal with the collection, which is all well and good, but journalists want good images, and it’s very hard for mannequins to provide this – pretty girls in pretty clothes will always win head and shoulders over a bony angled mannequin, however bony said girls are likely themselves to be. It felt as though this presentation was aimed at the needs of buyers rather than press.

As for the promise of a surprise when we entered the room, I still have no idea what this was, though other people have assured me that there was an ice sculpture in the room somewhere. I never saw it, thanks to the density of the crowd in attendance.

Despite Ada’s protestations that this was the best possible way to showcase her A/W 2011 collection I left feeling sadly underwhelmed. Please bring back live models next season Ada!

Georgia Hardinge by Kiran Patel

Recipient of the VFS Merit Award, pilule Gerogina Hardinge is far more than the ‘one to watch’ designer she was last season. Her first stand alone collection drew the likes of fashion press favourite Nicola Roberts.Another committed member of the digital prints parade, Hardinge sent monochrome skeletal prints down the runway played out on leggings, tight half-sleeve dresses and body-con tops. Inspired by the dark, and sometimes disturbing photography of Joel Peter Witkin, the concept of death, destruction and disfiguration was emphasised on streamlined silhouettes and her signature structural pieces.

The second half of the show was a little lighter, due to the injection of bone white and dusky peach leathers. A particular favourite was a dark brown playsuit with centre detailing and a nipped in waist. Hardinge cleverly used the robust leather so that she could engineer it to do what she wanted. Pleats, folds, and stiff overlapping layers on sleeves, legs and bodies were key in adding volume to otherwise clean, simple and effortless pieces.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Christopher Beales has been working at the coal face of fashion for his entire career thus far, more about in places as diverse as Voyage (the bizarre hippyluxe shop that you had to be a member of to even enter) and for Primark. He’s worked for Alexander McQueen and Matthew Williamson, about it as a costume designer for films such as Harry Potter and Robin Hood, case and he’s dressed eccentric individuals such as Prince.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

On Friday evening I popped along to his A/W 2011 presentation When The Crystal Crack’d, which was conveniently held in the Rag Factory off Brick Lane – thereby ensuring a steady stream of inquisitive fashionistas who were no doubt heading home to their East London nests after a long first day of shows.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Arranged on a sculptural arrangement of silver mesh mannequins, themselves constructed by Christopher Beales, this was a stunning debut for LFW: low key but very clever in its presentation. When The Crystal Crack’d is a collection of cocktail and evening dresses that features the precision tailoring that Christopher has perfected over many years of pattern cutting for famous names. Based on lots of asymmetric shapes in pastel and metallic silk, my favourite bit of the collection was most definitely in the details. Unexpected bows held aloft draped fabric, metal spikes accentuated the subtle curve of an exposed back and knobbled wool traced the contours of a waist.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle
Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia GregoryChristopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I look forward to seeing what next season will bring.

Categories ,Alexander McQueen, ,Brick Lane, ,Christopher Beales, ,Costume Design, ,Harry Potter, ,Hazel Castle, ,Hippyluxe, ,lfw, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Presentation, ,Primark, ,prince, ,rag factory, ,Robin Hood, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Toni Bowater, ,Voyage, ,When The Crystal Crack’d

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Amelia’s Magazine | RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show 2011: Flower Trends

RHS Flowers by Laura Parker
Roses at the RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show by Laura Parker.

So, recipe you’ve already met the hot new trends in garden design, now time for my interpretations of flower trends. Mainly in roses as it turns out, because my dad was very keen on loitering in the rose tent. As a result of his in depth investigations he’s just bought a whole load of climbers and ramblers to plant up the walls of his house… I’m thinking of doing the same. I quite fancy a little garden cottage in Brick Lane! And the ivy is taking over somewhat…

RHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011 allium photography by Amelia GregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011 allium sphaerocephalon photography by Amelia GregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-Gloriosa Rothschildiana Gloriosa Rothschildiana Hampton Court Flower Show by Toni Bowater
Gloriosa Rothschildiana at the Hampton Court Palace Flower Show by Toni Bowater.

But first, a stop at the Dutch Allium stand, where my mother bought 50 bulbs of bee attracting Allium sphaerocephalon. Glorious purple globes in every shape and shade! I was also taken by the spikey orange Gloriosa Rothschildiana flowers.

RHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregory
Now for the main trends in rose, plus a peek at the stuff I just well, you know, liked. Orange is so now you would not believe: hot, peachy, tropical and all types of orange in between. Every stand had them… Wildfire, Rotary Sunrise, Brilliant Sweet Dream, Super Trouper, Top Marks and Easy Does It (HarPageant Orange) – the gorgeous curly petaled rose.

Rose by Gareth A Hopkins
Rose by Gareth A Hopkins.

RHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregory
Blowsy and peachy is also big, with the likes of Belle Epoque appearing on lots of stands, especially blowsy with faded and differentiated edges, like you might see on an antique book, epitomised in a rose called Nostalgia. I also liked SchoolGirl, a deep pink edged modern climber and Blue For You, which is an astonishing lilac colour.

Flower-Show-Love-by-Hollie-McManus
Flower Show Love by Hollie McManus.

RHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregory
I don’t know what the technical name is for this, but tight double furls inside the outer petals were also a new look to me and featured heavily.

RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show by Illustrating RainRHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show by Illustrating RainRHS by Illustraing Rain
RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show by Illustrating Rain.

RHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregory
Hot Chocolate may seem like an odd name for a rose but this was also everywhere – a curious shade, somewhere between orange, brick and brown. It had a nice scent too.

RHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregory
I loved the stripy dog rose hybrid for patios, Wonderful News had amazing stripes.

RHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregory
I also liked the curious star shaped rose that I found lurking at the bottom of the display on one stand. Super Flower Carpet Procumbent – what an odd one!

RHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo by Amelia GregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo by Amelia Gregory
On a more general note there’s something about the way that stands are arranged to show off flowers that tickles me greatly…. here are just a few of my favourites!

Hampton Court Flower Show Floral Marquee by Sam Parr
Hampton Court Flower Show Floral Marquee by Sam Parr.

RHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo by Amelia GregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo by Amelia GregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregory
Hampton Court Flower Show by Toni Bowater
Hampton Court Palace Flower Show by Toni Bowater.

hampton court by lou taylor
Flowers by Lou Taylor.

RHS by Illustraing Rain
RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show by Illustrating Rain.

Garden, flower at Hampton Court by Bern O'Donoghue
Garden, flower at Hampton Court by Bern O’Donoghue.

And finally (I think I should stop) here’s some wonderful Beatles swinging 60s style arrangements from the Horticultural colleges. Don’t forget to check in with my blog about Garden Design too.

RHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregoryRHS Hampton Court Flower show review 2011-photo amelia gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory. Please do not take without asking!

Categories ,2011, ,Allium, ,Allium sphaerocephalon, ,Bees, ,Belle Epoque, ,Bern O’Donoghue, ,Blowsy, ,Blue For You, ,Brilliant Sweet Dream, ,Climber, ,Dog Rose, ,Easy Does It (HarPageant Orange), ,Floribunda, ,Flowers, ,Garden Design, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gloriosa Rothschildiana, ,Hampton Court Palace Flower Show, ,Hollie McManus, ,Horticultural, ,Hot Chocolate, ,Illustrating Rain, ,Laura Parker, ,Lou Taylor, ,Modern Climber, ,Nostalgia, ,Orange, ,Patio Rose, ,RHS, ,Roses, ,Rotary Sunrise, ,Sam Parr, ,SchoolGirl, ,Star Shaped, ,Super Flower Carpet Procumbent, ,Super Trouper, ,Toni Bowater, ,Top Marks, ,trend, ,Wildfire, ,Wonderful News

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