Amelia’s Magazine | 10 eco designers to watch out for in SS10: Part One

Loads of actions and demonstrations will be taking place this week and next in Copenhagen to protest against COP15 and to demand real effective solutions to the climate crisis…

climateaction
Image courtesy of Climate Justice Action

Monday 7th December: Climate Justice Fast! Hunger strikes have been taking place since the 6th of November in the UK, store US, drugs India, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, South Africa, Honduras, Bhutan and Copenhagen to raise awareness for the urgent need for action on climate change. Over 60 activists are already involved, and the 7th of December is an international day of fasting.

Wednesday 9th December: A large meeting will be held to spread the word on the upcoming actions and demonstrations this week in Copenhagen.
19:00 – 21:00 Ragnhildgade 1.

Friday 11th December: Don’t Buy the Lie. A day of anti-corporate action, because there is no such thing as green capitalism! 14:00.

Click here for more information

Saturday 12th December: Global Day of Action. Synchronised international demonstrations to call on world leaders to take urgent action on climate change.
To help build for these demonstrations go to www.globalclimatecampaign.org

Saturday 12th December: Flood for Climate Justice! A ‘flood’ organised by Friends of the Earth, in which people will flood through the streets of Copenhagen with their demands for climate justice.

Click here for more information and to find out how to get involved

Sunday 13th December: Hit the production! A day encouraging groups to take action on our economic system, in Copenhagen and abroad. On Saturday morning a group will shut down Copenhagen Harbor with a mass blockade.

Click here for more information

borders
Image courtesy of Climate Justice Action

Monday 14th December: No Border Day of Action. March to the Ministry of Defense from Radhuspladsen at 11am.

Click here for more information

agriculture
Image courtesy of Climate Justice Action

Tuesday 15th December: Resistance is ripe! Agriculture Action Day. The current food production system is responsible for over 32% of greenhouse gas emissions whilst farmers lose their land and livelihood, agri-businesses make millions. A day of action demanding an end to the false business solutions of the UNFCCC, No offsets from agriculture, a transition from the world’s capitalist economy toward a people-centered economy where peasants agriculture and local foods play a large role, an end to food waste and over-consumption, support for peasants access to land, support for small scale farming, sustainable agriculture and healthy food for all.

Click here for more information

Wednesday 16th – 18th December: Reclaim Power! Push for Climate Justice! A confrontational mass action of non-violent civil disobedience. In opposition to the false solutions being discussed at the climate summit, the Peoples Assembly will highlight alternatives that provide real just solutions. The Assembly will begin at 12 noon in the main entrance to the Bella Centre inside the UN area.

Click here for more information
Amelia’s magazine did the rounds at the SS10 press days and whilst we were enthralled by so many beautiful brands we’ve thought long and hard about criteria for our summary and there was really only one thing for it– a comprehensive round up of the best environmentally friendly and fair-trade brands we’re predicting great things for in 2010… Brace yourselves guys, viagra approved you’ve got exactly 22 days until we expect the magic to begin!
Yellow and White mac 008Image courtesy of Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn
A designer whose name is never far from any eco fashion list is that of Christopher Raeburn, who is famed for his high end, innovative and functional fashion created using re-appropriated military fabrics. Sourcing his material from de-commissioned military stock and hot-air balloon canvas among other materials Raeburn both redesigns and manufactures his groundbreaking garments ethically within the UK.

PB121954Image courtesy of Rachael Oku

Of his SS10 collection Christopher says: “This season presents a great opportunity to play with colour, negative space and flowing lines; from its inception I wanted to create an upbeat, fresh and experimental collection.”
With the emphasis on rouching, contrasting geometric panels and colourful taped seams Raeburn utilises laser cutting techniques for the first time introducing repeat patterns of concentric circle cut-outs which are peppered throughout the collection cleverly hidden between panels and layered hoods and sleeves.

Parachute dress

Image courtesy of Christopher Raeburn

What is most striking about Raeburn’s new contemporary collection of dresses, ponchos, skirts and macs is how well his colour palette and themes work together with layer, light and silhouette being the main focuses. With the majority of fabric used being transparent it is Raeburn’s bright accents of colour and playful dots that really inject life into the garments, and are reminiscent of jellyfish.

Purple and White Jacket with matching bag 006

Image courtesy of Christopher Raeburn

Rather excitingly the new collection also features accessories for the first time, with Raeburn fusing woven netting with his trademark parachute fabric and cord to great effect adding to the high impact of this super functional range.

Lu FluxPB121959Image courtesy of Rachael Oku

Another exciting designer who we’re predicting big things for next year is the lovely Lu Flux; who has just launched her debut collection after being named ‘London’s newest one to watch’ at Vauxhall Fashion Scout earlier in the year. What sets Lu’s designs apart is that her work is created using salvaged, vintage and organic fabrics, which she cleverly combines with traditional techniques such as knitting, pleating and patchwork.

PB121960Image courtesy of Rachael Oku

Lu’s witty and playful SS10 collection titled ‘The Eco Life of Riley’ is inspired by the ‘humble bluetit’ which is cleverly juxtaposed with bold jarring graphics throughout the collection. If developing her own eco brand wasn’t enough of a challenge Lu is also busy working on a project called SOKO Kenya to produce her raffia woven products. The idea behind this project is to work in conjunction with local Kenyan tailors who attend the community owned Ukunda Youth Polytechnic, which offers basic vocational training to local residents at a low cost.

!cid_2D1E7675-BCF5-4460-8B57-B855D8816400Image courtesy of SOKO Kenya

This collaboration will see SOKO invest a minimum of 5% gross earnings into the Polytechnic annually in addition to year-round fundraising to help acquire sewing machines and other essential equipment for the students. Additionally SOKO are committed to providing support in the design and running of the Polytechnic’s existing tailoring department and syllabus according to international fair-trade and eco production standards.

IMG_3182Image courtesy of SOKO Kenya

PB121961Image courtesy of Rachael Oku depicting SOKO Kenya products

Most importantly both parties are committed to working together to transform the Polytechnic into an eco institution by introducing a rainwater catchment system and working to create solar generated electricity. To find out more about this great project and where to buy SOKO Kenya products head to their website.

Apron Dress and BodysuitImage courtesy of Julia Smith

Julia Smith
Another groundbreaking designer who caught our attention was Julia Smith, a designer who has graced the webpages of Amelia’s magazine a few times previously. Julia’s SS10 collection entitled ‘Nurture Me’ explores the idea of mixing beauty with function. Part inspired by the 1930′s and 1940′s, when loose shapes and function were paramount Julia’s collection also references the concept of underwear as outerwear. Created using tactile fabrics such as soy, bamboo and organic cotton and linen Julia cleverly juxtaposes these with recycled polyester which is made from recycled plastic (PET) bottles.

Lara Jacket and Power BodyImage courtesy of Julia Smith

What really sets Julia apart is her second line aptly titled ‘Julia Smith Made in Africa’, which supports lives in Ghana through the vision of Mrs. Marian Essel, a highly skilled batik printer from Ghana, West Africa. Having worked for the Global Mamas in Cape Coast, Marian and Julia Smith have now formed a co-operative in the suburbs of Accra, Ghana’s capital city, offering employment opportunities to the struggling community.

Made in Africa 1Image courtesy of Julia Smith depicting the Made in Africa collection

With Marian using all the proceeds of her work to employ disadvantaged adults as well as sponsoring children so that they can go to school, this is a fantastic initiative which aims to help everyone within the community get the best educational start in life. The ‘Julia Smith Made in Africa’ collection is stocked in Julia’s new flagship store in Marble Arch’s Connaught Village.

borrato

Matt and Nat
Image courtesy of Matt and Nat

A new brand to Amelia’s magazine which is fast becoming a firm favourite is that of Matt & Nat, a pioneering vegan luxury accessories label who create animal free products for both men and women. Interestingly (which I’m hoping you’ll agree) Matt & Nat is not a design duo as the name would suggest but is instead founded by Inder Bedi who was challenged almost 20 years ago to forgo animal products for 30 days. Ever since he has made a conscious effort to use recycled and greener materials in his work steering clear of leather, wool and animal by-products.

commix

Image courtesy of Matt and Nat

For SS10 Matt & Nat are continuing where they left off last season with their 21 water bottles campaign which sees all the linings in their handbags and wallets created using 100% recycled plastic, with each accessory using an average of 21 bottles.

hendrix blueImage courtesy of Matt and Nat

With the inspirations for their SS10 collection being biker chic and glam rock, each bag has been embellished differently with everything from studs to zip details. Made primarily from eel skin (incidentally the softest type of leather I have ever felt,) the colour palette of fiery scarlet, intense blue and blush pink bring a vintage feel to the pieces.

Henrietta Ludgate
A great designer who has already received quite a bit of media attention in 2009 is Henrietta Ludgate, who won the Ethical Fashion Forum ‘Fashion Innovation Award’ earlier in the year. Creating sustainable and sculptural garments from her studio in the remote Highlands of Scotland, Henrietta stays close to her Scotch roots by working primarily with Scottish linen.

4    Image courtesy of Henrietta Ludgate

With a brand ethos to support both the Scottish and British textile industry as a whole, all fabrics are sourced from within the British Isles with all pieces produced locally.

image15Image courtesy of Henrietta Ludgate

A champion of slow fashion, Henrietta’s minimalist silhouette remains hauntingly elegant and distinctive. For inspiration Henrietta often looks to Elsa Schiaparelli, and her vision of fashion as a type of architecture, and beliefs that clothing should be ‘closely connected to the frame of the body’.

image12Image courtesy of Henrietta Ludgate

With the recent opening of a swanky new showroom in London’s Covent Garden, things are looking bright for 2010.
Stay tuned for the second instalment tomorrow…

Categories ,21 water bottles campaign, ,Christopher Raeburn, ,Elsa Schiaparelli, ,Ethical Fashion Forum, ,Global Mamas, ,Henrietta Ludgate, ,Julia Smith, ,Lu Flux, ,Made in Africa, ,Marble Arch’s Connaught Village, ,Matt & Nat, ,Soko Kenya, ,Ukunda Youth Polytechnic, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | Alice Lee: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Preview

Alice Lee SS12 by Gemma Cotterell

Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Gemma Cotterell

The Vauxhall Fashion Scout ‘Ones to Watch‘ show is undoubtedly one of the highlights on the London Fashion Week calendar. It’s an opportunity for new designers to present their work, hand-picked because of their extraordinary designs, and for us fashion-hungry fans to witness the best of new talent.

For S/S 2012, design team, and in-real-life husband and wife, Lee Farmer and Alice Smith were chosen to showcase their collection. They had already received recognition for their work. In 2002, they had won the New Generation Sponsorship, and had previously received orders from Browns and Harrods. They re-launched Alice Lee as part of the VFS line up, after taking some time out from the label to focus on their family.

AW12 Sketch courtesy of Alice Lee

A/W 2012 Sketch courtesy of Alice Lee

Alice Lee is all about exceptional knitwear – a mix of intricate designs that for S/S 2012 were woven with strips of leather, in a simple palette of white, pale green, black and a splash of red. The collection was formed of modern shapes – deep cut and body con dresses, knitted trousers and varying hemlines, with a refined finish and detailing. There was an element of the futuristic to this collection, and I can remember Georgia Tackac’s review of the VFS Ones to Watch show, where she compared the Alice Lee collection to something Princess Leia would have had in her costume wardrobe.

Alice Lee SS12 by Jo Ley

Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Jo Ley

I spoke to Alice a few days before the chaos of LFW started, about inspirations, the new collection and the dominance of knitwear.

What impact did being chosen as one of Vauxhall Fashion’s Scout’s Ones to Watch last year have?
We got to do a catwalk show and got some good press then this led to orders, so in all a very good impact from being named as one of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch. From this we were chosen as one of the 5 Womenswear designers selected by Selfridges for their Bright Young Things project. This came hand in hand with an order for S/S 2012, and a window display for 2 months. This was an amazing opportunity to display the pieces in a way we wanted, and get the public to see our designs on Oxford Street, with it’s 1 million people a day passing by Selfridges.

Alice Lee coil-dress
A/W 2012 Coil Dress Fitting courtesy of Alice Lee

What have you been up to since then?
Since then we have been working on the orders we have received, which we made this time in our studio, as well as working on our window for Selfridges. We’re now working on our A/W 2012 collection.

Alice Lee sketch
A/W 2012 Dress Sketch courtesy of Alice Lee

What can we expect from your new collection?
We have been thinking about colours for winter. We do love black, but have just added a splash of colour here and there. There are some longer lengths in the dresses, and skirts. We have some outerwear with fur, faux of course as we never use real fur, or sheepskin. It’s just not our cup of tea.

Alice-Lee-By-Kris-Keys
Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Kris Keys

What were the inspirations and influences?
Many, too many to put down. A feeling from a poem by Dante. A feeling of being protected and armoured, and a continuation of the leather work combined with knitwear that we started to develop for S/S 2012.

Can you explain a little about your passion for design, and explain how you moved into fashion design.
Alice – I always loved making things and sewing as a child. I come from an ‘arty’ family, my dad is a photographer and my mom is a fashion designer, so I was inspired by them. Also I grew up from the age if 10 to 14 in a travelling theatre company touring Europe, with my dad, so I was surrounded by things and people that inspired and nurtured my creativity.

Alice Lee sketch dress
Alice Lee A/W 2012 Dress Sketch

Can you tell me a little about the process of your designs – perhaps a little about the materials and techniques that are used?
Well we both work through the ideas together, but Lee is more of the sketcher and I’m more of the knitter. So I knit swatches and Lee sketches. Then as are doing this we try shapes out on the mannequin, see what works then we usually go from that stage in to knitting the garment. At the moment we are using all natural yarns for winter, mostly wool and then hand threaded and stitched with leather stripes. A very time consuming process but we think it’s worth it. All pieces are hand made and fully fashioned.

You put the label on hold for a while to focus on family. How are you finding the balance with working now, especially with the lead up to LFW?
Well we have two children, so it is quite a juggling act. They are at nursery and school now so we have time to work. But they do come to the studio sometimes.

Can you explain why knitwear is such an integral part of your label?
It just kind of happened that way. I did my degree and MA in fashion knitwear. Also it’s probably a lot to do with making our own fabric from a cone of yarn and being able to knit it in to any shape and form we want to. Also the embellishment is very prominent. It’s very 3D, from the stitches to the end shape of the garment. We like to make something truly our own and with knitwear you can do.

Alice Lee will be showing their new A/W 2012 collection on Saturday 18th February at 14.45 at Somerset House, as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout at Freemasons Hall, 60 Great Queen Street, WC2B 5AZ.

Categories ,Alice Lee, ,AW12, ,Bright Young Things, ,Faux Fur, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Georgia Tackacs, ,Jo Ley, ,knitwear, ,Kris Keys, ,leather, ,Ones To Watch, ,Selfridges, ,SS12, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ashish: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows
Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows.

This season Ashish turned to his roots for Bollywouldn’t, a collection which married the iconography of hippy India with late 80s rave culture, both style eras that have been repeatedly plundered by successive generations – one need only think of New Rave, that short lived phenomenon of just a few years ago. However, in the inimitable hands of Ashish, these styles have been reinvented once more, in a dusty meets fluoro palette of clashing logos and decorative decals.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows
Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows.

Models wore elaborate beaded face jewellery based on traditional Indian jewellery, with the addition of the odd cut out CND logo. High crepe soled rainbow platforms riffed on Ashish‘s usual love of DM boots. Shapes were mainly slouchy, with relaxed cardigans and hoods piled on top of baggy pants. The omnipresent sequins were of course in effect, creating smiley face repeat patterns, garish paisleys or giant body hugging pink buddhas.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Vicky Ink aka Vicky Fallon
Ashish A/W 2012 by Vicky Ink aka Vicky Fallon.

A clever two fingered slogan was repeated front and back, transferring its meaning in the event. Even a rainbow tie-dye design got the intricate sequinned treatment with Ashish. Hare Krishna style influenced ochre shirts were printed with deep red slogans: worn by boys hiding in cowl necked scarves. For women the same scarves came in dusky pinks and dove grey.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Antonia Parker
Ashish A/W 2012 by Antonia Parker
Ashish A/W 2012 by Antonia Parker.

Ashish always accompanies his collections with an evocative piece of prose that describes his muse. This season ‘She travels light, but shops heavy… Some say she’s a hippie, but she denies it: her shopping chakra dictates otherwise.’ It seems that for A/W 2012 Ashish has his designer tongue wedged ever more firmly in his cheek, and, as ever, I love him for it. Predictably, there were so many pieces that I loved in this imaginative and witty collection.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Sarah Jayne Draws
Ashish A/W 2012 by Sarah Jayne Draws.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Antonia Parker, ,Ashish, ,Bollywouldn’t, ,Catherine Meadows, ,catwalk, ,CND, ,DMs, ,Hare Krishna, ,Hippy, ,India, ,London Fashion Week, ,New Rave, ,review, ,Sarah-Jayne Draws, ,Sequins, ,Somerset House, ,Vicky Fallon, ,Vicky Ink

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Amelia’s Magazine | Baartmans & Siegel: London Collections Men S/S 2013 Presentation Review


Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2014 by Hannah Smith

Bright and early on the last day of London Collections: Men, I raced to Covent Garden to catch Baartmans and Siegel‘s S/S 2014 presentation.


All photography by Matt Bramford

The design duo presented this season’s wares in an unused shop on Earlham Street. Inside, their eight models stood on breeze blocks in front of stark white walls, enveloped by a jungle of plants. With A/W 2013′s collection of Arctic-worthy puffas and parkas ingrained in my mind, this was clearly a cohesive move towards spring and summer fun.

I’ve talked about the merits of a presentation vs. a catwalk show before, but this was the perfect example. If these models were to have walked past a lightning speed, you’d never get a flavour of the expert craftsmanship and hidden details that go in to a Baartmans and Siegel collection. You’re also made acutely aware that models are told to Blue Steel into your camera, which can make for hilarious results. I never, ever know what to do after they’ve shot me a look. Sometimes I nod, sometimes I smile, sometimes I pretend to fiddle with the settings on my camera; I’ve even been known to do a little bow or curtsy, which is incredibly embarrassing.

SS14′s ‘South Pacific Aviation‘ sees Wouter and Amber seek subtle inspiration from the joys of adventure and exotic escapism. With elements of military and utilitarian uniform, a resounding feature of a Baartmans and Siegel collection is always a strong focus on the beauty of textures. Rich silks, brushed cottons, jersey, perforated suede, wools – you name it, they make excellent use of it.

Basics like tees and tailored shirts came in off-white, but were dominated by a sea of varying blues and blacks for a masculine effect. Most forms of the jacket were given the B&S once-over; a bomber with silk sleeves, a trench with zip details, an elongated Harrington and parkas in paisley Broderie Anglaise.

Polos and t-shirts were layered in a loose, nonchalant way. Mesh tops added another texture, contrasting with the softness of jacket materials.

Slick, wet-look hair styles, shades and Sauconys added an extra modern dimension to Baartmans and Siegel‘s firmly established classic aesthetic.

Categories ,Baartmans and Siegel, ,Blue Steel, ,bomber, ,Covent Garden, ,Earlham Street, ,fashion, ,Hannah Smith, ,Harrington, ,LCM, ,LCMSS14, ,london, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,military, ,parkas, ,Saucony, ,South Pacific Aviation, ,SS14

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Gemma Slack

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_2

In a strange part of town, medical in a venue that gave no clue as to why it existed (apart from having the appearance of a Travelodge) Andrew Majtenyi presented his debut collection.

I must confess, before the show I knew little about Majtenyi, so I had zero expectations. It was, in the end, a very polished show.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_3

No major boundaries were pushed; there’s still an omnipresent recession-friendly vibe at Fashion Week, yet Majtenyi’s collection was a positive one.

Sharp, tailored outfits with girlish softness were influenced by 1940s New Look optimism – in an environment of economic recovery, I guess we’re looking for the same attitudes from tailors as the admirers of Dior did during his time.

A grey palette really suited these simple, elegant pieces, and structured business-like ensembles managed to be flirtatious with shorter hem-lines.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_5

The collection progressed to include playful and humorous prints, which included dog-walkers and ketchup bottles. These also added a splash of colour to an otherwise monochromatic colour palette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_6

Flannel grey structured suits were given an edge with a flocked damask treatment, and thin belts synched in waists to create a more flattering silhouette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_1

All in all, a good show, but I’d really like to see Majtenyi’s outfits on curvaceous women with a touch more sex appeal – did anybody check these girls’ BMI?!

Andrerw M
Illustration courtesy of Valerie Pezeron

In a strange part of town, this in a venue that gave no clue as to why it existed (apart from having the appearance of a Travelodge) Andrew Majtenyi presented his debut collection.

I must confess, viagra before the show I knew little about Majtenyi, so I had zero expectations. It was, in the end, a very polished show.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_3

No major boundaries were pushed; there’s still an omnipresent recession-friendly vibe at Fashion Week, yet Majtenyi’s collection was a positive one.

Sharp, tailored outfits with girlish softness were influenced by 1940s New Look optimism – in an environment of economic recovery, I guess we’re looking for the same attitudes from tailors as the admirers of Dior did during his time.

A grey palette really suited these simple, elegant pieces, and structured business-like ensembles managed to be flirtatious with shorter hem-lines.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_5

The collection progressed to include playful and humorous prints, which included dog-walkers and ketchup bottles. These also added a splash of colour to an otherwise monochromatic colour palette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_6

Flannel grey structured suits were given an edge with a flocked damask treatment, and thin belts synched in waists to create a more flattering silhouette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_1

All in all, a good show, but I’d really like to see Majtenyi’s outfits on curvaceous women with a touch more sex appeal – did anybody check these girls’ BMI?!
Gemma Slack

Illustration courtesy of Valerie Pezeron

Fashion’s new blood is bubbling just a stone throw from Somerset House’s established dinosaurs. Last Friday, see Gemma Slack presented her new collection in the luxuriously cosy confines of Freemasons’Hall as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

CIMG1587

I was one of many who packed inside a dimly lit room complete with splendid ceiling and it was soon obvious we were not going to be treated to the usual fashion show. In lieu of a catwalk, remedy industry insiders were to be shown a projection and there was a big screen spread in one end of the room.

CIMG1591

The anticipation was of the type usually reserved for designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen and quite a few fashionista were clad from head to toe in the designer’s clothes. A phenomenon is about to be unleashed…

CIMG1589

Then the movie starts; the diaphanous mood is set with poignant music, shaky camera handling and pouting models pretending to be great actresses…and it worked in a strange kind of way! Still, I did shrink several times. The lighting was so effective that models’ ribs were highlighted like cutlets for the chop. If it was meant to be sexy then there must be something wrong with me.

But then again, it must have been done on purpose as one of Slack’s famous pieces is the spine dress. This autumn winter collection references again staples of Gemma Slack’ trade, from Dracula and Victorian references, untreated leather and golden chains. But none of them are in the film.

CIMG1590

Fashion is embracing video as a way to express mood and life style. It is all about effective communication and nothing sells little black dresses better, it is hoped, than digital short films immersing you in the world of a brand. It was all very intriguing, I must say but not at all surprising from the maverick who recently graced the pages of Grazia, Vogue and Dazed. For Gemma Slack is an artist first and foremost.

As I meandered across the room, staring at mannequins floating above in the glare of neon spotlights, I thought that maybe this is how legends are made. It’s not really about the studded hand molded vertebrae scales leather dresses, metal and aluminium materials or the mohair with human hair. We need to dream and we need to be challenged. And on that day, Gemma Slack dished out a big serving of disquieting femininity for me to take home.

Categories ,Alexandre McQueen, ,Autumn Winter 2010, ,Catwalk review, ,Dazed, ,fashion, ,Fashion Designer, ,Gemma Slack, ,Grazia, ,London Fashion Week, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,vogue

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Gemma Slack

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_2

In a strange part of town, medical in a venue that gave no clue as to why it existed (apart from having the appearance of a Travelodge) Andrew Majtenyi presented his debut collection.

I must confess, before the show I knew little about Majtenyi, so I had zero expectations. It was, in the end, a very polished show.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_3

No major boundaries were pushed; there’s still an omnipresent recession-friendly vibe at Fashion Week, yet Majtenyi’s collection was a positive one.

Sharp, tailored outfits with girlish softness were influenced by 1940s New Look optimism – in an environment of economic recovery, I guess we’re looking for the same attitudes from tailors as the admirers of Dior did during his time.

A grey palette really suited these simple, elegant pieces, and structured business-like ensembles managed to be flirtatious with shorter hem-lines.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_5

The collection progressed to include playful and humorous prints, which included dog-walkers and ketchup bottles. These also added a splash of colour to an otherwise monochromatic colour palette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_6

Flannel grey structured suits were given an edge with a flocked damask treatment, and thin belts synched in waists to create a more flattering silhouette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_1

All in all, a good show, but I’d really like to see Majtenyi’s outfits on curvaceous women with a touch more sex appeal – did anybody check these girls’ BMI?!

Andrerw M
Illustration courtesy of Valerie Pezeron

In a strange part of town, this in a venue that gave no clue as to why it existed (apart from having the appearance of a Travelodge) Andrew Majtenyi presented his debut collection.

I must confess, viagra before the show I knew little about Majtenyi, so I had zero expectations. It was, in the end, a very polished show.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_3

No major boundaries were pushed; there’s still an omnipresent recession-friendly vibe at Fashion Week, yet Majtenyi’s collection was a positive one.

Sharp, tailored outfits with girlish softness were influenced by 1940s New Look optimism – in an environment of economic recovery, I guess we’re looking for the same attitudes from tailors as the admirers of Dior did during his time.

A grey palette really suited these simple, elegant pieces, and structured business-like ensembles managed to be flirtatious with shorter hem-lines.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_5

The collection progressed to include playful and humorous prints, which included dog-walkers and ketchup bottles. These also added a splash of colour to an otherwise monochromatic colour palette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_6

Flannel grey structured suits were given an edge with a flocked damask treatment, and thin belts synched in waists to create a more flattering silhouette.

LFW_AndrewMajtenyi_1

All in all, a good show, but I’d really like to see Majtenyi’s outfits on curvaceous women with a touch more sex appeal – did anybody check these girls’ BMI?!
Gemma Slack

Illustration courtesy of Valerie Pezeron

Fashion’s new blood is bubbling just a stone throw from Somerset House’s established dinosaurs. Last Friday, see Gemma Slack presented her new collection in the luxuriously cosy confines of Freemasons’Hall as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

CIMG1587

I was one of many who packed inside a dimly lit room complete with splendid ceiling and it was soon obvious we were not going to be treated to the usual fashion show. In lieu of a catwalk, remedy industry insiders were to be shown a projection and there was a big screen spread in one end of the room.

CIMG1591

The anticipation was of the type usually reserved for designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen and quite a few fashionista were clad from head to toe in the designer’s clothes. A phenomenon is about to be unleashed…

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Then the movie starts; the diaphanous mood is set with poignant music, shaky camera handling and pouting models pretending to be great actresses…and it worked in a strange kind of way! Still, I did shrink several times. The lighting was so effective that models’ ribs were highlighted like cutlets for the chop. If it was meant to be sexy then there must be something wrong with me.

But then again, it must have been done on purpose as one of Slack’s famous pieces is the spine dress. This autumn winter collection references again staples of Gemma Slack’ trade, from Dracula and Victorian references, untreated leather and golden chains. But none of them are in the film.

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Fashion is embracing video as a way to express mood and life style. It is all about effective communication and nothing sells little black dresses better, it is hoped, than digital short films immersing you in the world of a brand. It was all very intriguing, I must say but not at all surprising from the maverick who recently graced the pages of Grazia, Vogue and Dazed. For Gemma Slack is an artist first and foremost.

As I meandered across the room, staring at mannequins floating above in the glare of neon spotlights, I thought that maybe this is how legends are made. It’s not really about the studded hand molded vertebrae scales leather dresses, metal and aluminium materials or the mohair with human hair. We need to dream and we need to be challenged. And on that day, Gemma Slack dished out a big serving of disquieting femininity for me to take home.

Categories ,Alexandre McQueen, ,Autumn Winter 2010, ,Catwalk review, ,Dazed, ,fashion, ,Fashion Designer, ,Gemma Slack, ,Grazia, ,London Fashion Week, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,vogue

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