Amelia’s Magazine | Pam Hogg: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

We waited for almost an hour outside Freemasons’ Hall due to the usual buzz which surrounded the Pam Hogg S/S 2014 catwalk show at Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week. The rain came and went a few times – the opening and closing umbrellas not quite sheltering the fashionable kids queuing – but as ever it was worth the wait! Once inside, I squeezed tightly in between a lot of other keen bloggers at the photographers’ end and we all laughed and joked, merrily cooperating with each other in working out our collective positioning for optimum shots. Those in the front rows near us also seemed to be in great spirits, a few of them refreshingly slouching in their chairs and sporting messed up hair, torn jeans and casual wear.

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

The show titled ‘Future Past: War & Peace: Past Future’ was presented in different sections, sometimes with gaps so long between them we thought it was over at least twice before the actual end. First came World War II nurses gradually merging into latex clad ones and then transforming into beauties wearing the trademark Pam Hogg geometrical catsuits with wonderful bird themed and floral headpieces added on top. I absolutely adored the theatrical interlude ballet performance of a Little-Bo-Peep-esque ballerina who was full of the joy of life, immediately followed by a trembling, slowly walking black bride holding a crutch. In this show full of contradictions between life and death I found it entertaining that the final characters should be scantily dressed ladies in folded tulle. What a delightful experience!

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Antonia Parker

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014. All photography by Maria Papadimitriou.

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,ballet, ,Catsuits, ,Death, ,Dom & Ink, ,Fashion Scout, ,florals, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Future Past: War & Peace: Past Future, ,headpieces, ,Latex, ,Lizzie Donegan, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lynne Datson, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,New Good Studio, ,Nurses, ,Pam Hogg, ,S/S 2014, ,Theatrical, ,World War II, ,xplusyequals, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | À La Disposition: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Presentation Review

A La Disposition AW 2012 by Claire Kearns

À La Disposition A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

On the first day of London Fashion Week I went along to see the presentation by À La Disposition at Fashion Scout. Holding in my hands was an invitation that featured intricate imagery and lettering from times past in gold ink on black card – suitable perhaps for a brand whose name refers to historical costuming techniques. I was aware of American husband and wife duo Lynda and Daniel Kinnes’ previous creations, but I had not seen them before in the flesh so I was excited that I would be able to admire their handiwork up close.

A La Disposition AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition AW 2012 by Barb Royal

À La Disposition AW 2012 by Barb Royal

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Each design on a black mannequin seemed to me like a character from a story; indeed in a previous interview in Amelia’s Magazine the couple mentioned that each ‘collection is a journey which flows from a story Daniel develops as he sketches‘. There is also an interesting element of continuity, or of a story unfolding, in the way the designers name their collections from season to season. The first collection they showed in London for A/W 2011 was titled The Utopian Aviary, suggesting a hopeful, perhaps naive start to a journey. This was followed by the mECHANICAL fAILURE show in S/S 2012, alluding to some turbulent times mid-flight. The current collection does not have such a specific title, but at the top of the invitation it read: A Solemn Viewing of Autumn and Winter 2013 – I am glad someone else is confused about whether this season is A/W 2012, A/W 2012-13 or A/W 2013. The title evoked in me an image of someone who has flown high up in bright humour, but once looking down finds the view not so pleasant.

A La Disposition AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition AW12 by Gareth A Hopkins

À La Disposition AW 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins

This newfound solemnity was expressed in the predominantly black and grey tints of the new season, which were in contrast with the more bold and bright colours of previous collections. Furthermore, the use of monocles as a decorative element on top hats emphasised the theme of ‘viewing’ and ‘looking’, mentioned above.

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

This year is of course the 200th anniversary of Charles Dickens, so it was fitting that some of the designs seemed to have stepped out of the Victorian/Dickensian era. The designers behind À La Disposition have mentioned that they are inspired by London life, parts of which still nowadays resemble situations depicted in Dickens’ novels. This connection between the past and the present was made – beautifully and with a lot of wit I thought – by placing contemporary looking woolly hats underneath top hats. Here, again like Dickens, À La Disposition could also be examining different social structures and their co-existence?

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition AW 2012 by Nicola Ellen

À La Disposition AW 2012 by Nicola Ellen

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Most of the pieces were really theatrical and well structured with sculptural shapes, displaying the brand’s great pattern cutting skills. As I really enjoy unwearable designs, a favourite feature of mine was the really long sleeves of some of the jackets, which not only reached the floor but extended even further to form long fabric tubes which trailed behind the figures.

A La Disposition A-W 2013 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2013 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

It added to the presentation that Lynda and Daniel Kinne were dressed in mild period costume too, thus being really easily spotted in the room, with Lynda sporting blue hair against her more conservative ensemble in a delightful anachronistic fashion.

A La Disposition A-W 2012 the designers photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou.

Categories ,À La Disposition, ,anachronistic, ,Barb Royal, ,black, ,Charles Dickens, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Grey, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lynda and Daniel Kinne, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Nicolla Ellen, ,Pattern Cutting, ,Period Costumes, ,Sculptural, ,Solemn, ,Structural, ,Theatrical, ,top hats, ,Vauxhall Fahsion Scout, ,Woolly Hats

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with The Miserable Rich about their spooky new album Miss You In The Days

The Miserable Rich by Kathryn Corlett
The Miserable Rich by Kathryn Corlett.

Miss You in the Days is the new album from The Miserable Rich, a fabulous collection of songs inspired by ghosts, ghouls… and possession. In other words, the perfect musical accompaniment for Halloween and beyond. I got in touch with lead singer James De Malplaquet to find out what inspired this theatrical tour de force.

The Miserable Rich bed
Why do you think your music is referred to as Chamber Pop and is there anything else you would prefer to be called or that you use to describe yourselves better?
It would seem a little churlish to deny that there are both pop and chamber music elements to our music – but the term ‘chamber pop’ is just one consonant away from ‘chamber pot’ – a little too close for comfort in my humble…. We certainly use some traditional chamber music instruments – violin, cello, double bass, that kind of thing. I’m told the idea of chamber music was that it went against the tyranny of the orchestral hall – it was music that could be played anywhere, in any room, or chamber. We certainly fit in with that, having played in all kinds of places from churches to parks, palaces to (I ‘kid’ you not) creches.

Taking the songs Pisshead, Hungover and Chestnut Sunday (about cocaine addiction), and our propensity for liquor, we started off calling it ‘bar-room chamber music’ – but that didn’t really fit with the song for my mother (I hope). We do think there’s a bit of intensity in the music and the lyrical subject matter though – a bit of fire in the belly – and so we’re toying with ‘fiery chamber music for (song) lovers’ at the mo. There’ll probably be a new one in a month or two, mind.

Miss You In The Days cover
Who inspires you musically – I think there’s a definite jaunt to your music that calls to mind the theatrical big band festival scene. Has this been a factor in your development?
I think you’re right; there is indeed a certain theatrical flourish to what we do. Not that we planned it – and apart from my soft spot for Kate Bush, Grace Jones and Peter Gabriel, it’s not really there in the bands that we like – Will loves Loney Dear, for example – hardly known for his overblown music or stage shows….. I don’t know – I guess it just sort of came out that way. I do remember talking to the band before some of our first shows and agreeing that it didn’t matter if we hit a few bum notes, as long as we put emotion into the playing. It’s probably ramping the emotion up that gives it this element of theatre. We might play one or two less bum notes nowadays (we might not), but we still try to maintain that level of intensity.On the other hand, it might just be because we’re an incorrigible bunch of drama queens, completely divorced from reality. Sounds much more fun that way.

The Miserable Rich by Beth Crowley
The Miserable Rich by Beth Crowley.

How big is the current incarnation of your band – and who plays all the different instruments?
We’ve always been a five piece, with Will Calderbank on cello and occasional piano, Mike Siddell on violin and Rhys Lovell on double bass. This is the first time Ricky Pritchard has joined us on guitar and piano, and we added a drummer (!) this time round. Last album, we made a rule that we all had to play at least two instruments and sing on the album, so we shared the drumming, but on this album we got a real live drummer – David ‘Badlace’ Schechtriemen – to pitch in and help out. Myself, I used to play bits of piano, guitar, percussion and mandolin on the records, but they’ve gradually wrestled all the toys off me and made it clear I should just stick to singing….. Spoil sports.

Your album Miss You in the Days is described as “a collection of witty mischievous ghost stories” and is being released on Halloween. Have you always been fans of the otherworldly and the paranormal, and how or why did this love come about?
It was just one of those •spooky• coincidences, really. If we were going to record another album, I wanted us to go away and have an adventure – and so I came up with this idea of going to a haunted house and writing an album based on ghost stories. I’d noticed that we English – myself in particular – found it difficult to write about sex and death, and I thought this might be a good way of exorcising those particular lyrical demons. After I’d sold the idea to the band, I started reading only ghost stores and went around on tours in the UK and Europe, telling anyone who’d listen our plan, hoping someone would say ‘Come record at my house – it’s haunted as hell‘. In the end, a friend who had offered her haunted attic suddenly ‘remembered’ she was living next to Britain’s most haunted stately home, the Jacobean Palace of Blickling Hall – birthplace of Anne Boleyn. Introductions were sought, deals were cut with the National Trust, and off we went, hope in our hearts and ghouls in our heads.

Two rough diamonds from The Miserable Rich by Rhiannon Ladd
Two rough diamonds from The Miserable Rich by Rhiannon Ladd.

You recorded parts of the album in the haunted Blickling Hall – any good stories from this period? Mysterious creaks, ghost sightings – or were the stories of the place enough to work on your imaginations? 
Blickling is an amazing place, incredibly beautiful and evocative. Visiting its lonely windswept and tree-lined roads on our first visit, seeing the palace loom out of the darkness, it was easy to imagine people losing their wits in the deep dark Winters. Perhaps we did ourselves. David said he saw faces at the window on more than one occasion, the mics kept picking up German voices, and though the caretaker once told us in thick Glaswegian tones ‘The only spirits you’ll find here are whiskey, vodka and gin‘, Ricky and our manager Howard will tell you something very different about the unexplained voice they recorded late one Friday night in the West Turret Bedroom…….

Anything’s Possible

TheMiserableRich_AnythingsPossible_1000
Anything’s Possible cover art by illustrator Stanley Chow.


How does the erotic element of the album present itself, and which songs is this felt in the most?
I had been thinking about how the word ‘possession’ is both a supernatural and a sexual term. We hope to possess or be possessed by our lovers, or by the act of lovemaking. I’d also been mulling a little playfully on the meaning of words like ‘moaning’ and ‘groaning’. If you hear someone moaning in an old, empty house, say, you might draw very different conclusions to those you might on hearing the same sound through a hotel room wall. These ideas, and the idea of ‘love across beyond the grave‘ are suggested in the songs Laid Up In Lavender, On A Certain Night, Honesty and True Love – but I hope it’s not too heavy-handed.

YouTube Preview Image

What is going on in On a Certain Night? The lyrics sound quite stalkerish… who or what inspired this tune, and whose house was the lucky venue for the video? 
My first love was possessed. Many may believe this of their own experience, but in my case, these were her own words. She told me that a bright shiny light would enter the room, enter her body (as I hoped to do myself, but in quite a different way), and tell her what to do. I wasn’t sure if I believed her, or if I thought it a brilliant and elaborate method of getting out of responsibility for one’s actions…. When we started writing the album, many years later, I remembered the story and thought I’d write a slightly disturbing pop song from the perspective of this possessing spirit. There may be a little revenge in this – he is quite a lascivious devil, isn’t he? As for the video, it was all shot in one night, after hours in our new favourite Brighton pub, The Chequer Inn, run by a lovely and accommodating couple who had come up to me in various other pubs and told me they loved the band, and once memorably giving me a packet of twiglets.

On a certain night cover
Some pretty nightmarish make up featured in the video too. Do you have any special plans for this Halloween and what will you be dressing up as?
Hideous, isn’t it? That’s what happens if I don’t have time to properly put my face on before going out……. At least it ensures the video doesn’t look like Losing My Religion…. Yes, there will indeed be a bit of dressing up – and for this tour we’ll be playing in some churches, crypts, castles and even palaces, so anyone who gets into the ‘spirit’ of the nights will get a special ‘ghost hour’ radio mix I’ve made. I think we’re going to be imprinting a lot of memories on this tour….

YouTube Preview ImageHungover

The new single On A Certain Night is out on 24th October and the album Miss You in the Days is out, fittingly, on 31st October. Both on Humble Soul. Not to be missed. Check out The Miserable Rich soon! There are a few free tracks to download on Facebook here.

Categories ,album, ,Anything’s Possible, ,Beth Crowley, ,brighton, ,Chamber Pop, ,David ‘Badlace’ Schechtriemen, ,Dramatic, ,gothic, ,Hallowe’en, ,Humble Soul, ,Hungover, ,interview, ,James De Malplaquet, ,Kathryn Corlett, ,Mike Siddell, ,Possession, ,pub, ,review, ,Rhiannon Ladd, ,Rhys Lovell, ,Spooky, ,Stanley Chow, ,The Chequer Inn, ,The Chequers, ,The Miserable Rich, ,Theatrical, ,Will Calderbank

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