Amelia’s Magazine | À La Disposition: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Presentation Review

A La Disposition AW 2012 by Claire Kearns

À La Disposition A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

On the first day of London Fashion Week I went along to see the presentation by À La Disposition at Fashion Scout. Holding in my hands was an invitation that featured intricate imagery and lettering from times past in gold ink on black card – suitable perhaps for a brand whose name refers to historical costuming techniques. I was aware of American husband and wife duo Lynda and Daniel Kinnes’ previous creations, but I had not seen them before in the flesh so I was excited that I would be able to admire their handiwork up close.

A La Disposition AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition AW 2012 by Barb Royal

À La Disposition AW 2012 by Barb Royal

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Each design on a black mannequin seemed to me like a character from a story; indeed in a previous interview in Amelia’s Magazine the couple mentioned that each ‘collection is a journey which flows from a story Daniel develops as he sketches‘. There is also an interesting element of continuity, or of a story unfolding, in the way the designers name their collections from season to season. The first collection they showed in London for A/W 2011 was titled The Utopian Aviary, suggesting a hopeful, perhaps naive start to a journey. This was followed by the mECHANICAL fAILURE show in S/S 2012, alluding to some turbulent times mid-flight. The current collection does not have such a specific title, but at the top of the invitation it read: A Solemn Viewing of Autumn and Winter 2013 – I am glad someone else is confused about whether this season is A/W 2012, A/W 2012-13 or A/W 2013. The title evoked in me an image of someone who has flown high up in bright humour, but once looking down finds the view not so pleasant.

A La Disposition AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition AW12 by Gareth A Hopkins

À La Disposition AW 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins

This newfound solemnity was expressed in the predominantly black and grey tints of the new season, which were in contrast with the more bold and bright colours of previous collections. Furthermore, the use of monocles as a decorative element on top hats emphasised the theme of ‘viewing’ and ‘looking’, mentioned above.

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

This year is of course the 200th anniversary of Charles Dickens, so it was fitting that some of the designs seemed to have stepped out of the Victorian/Dickensian era. The designers behind À La Disposition have mentioned that they are inspired by London life, parts of which still nowadays resemble situations depicted in Dickens’ novels. This connection between the past and the present was made – beautifully and with a lot of wit I thought – by placing contemporary looking woolly hats underneath top hats. Here, again like Dickens, À La Disposition could also be examining different social structures and their co-existence?

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition AW 2012 by Nicola Ellen

À La Disposition AW 2012 by Nicola Ellen

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Most of the pieces were really theatrical and well structured with sculptural shapes, displaying the brand’s great pattern cutting skills. As I really enjoy unwearable designs, a favourite feature of mine was the really long sleeves of some of the jackets, which not only reached the floor but extended even further to form long fabric tubes which trailed behind the figures.

A La Disposition A-W 2013 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A La Disposition A-W 2013 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

It added to the presentation that Lynda and Daniel Kinne were dressed in mild period costume too, thus being really easily spotted in the room, with Lynda sporting blue hair against her more conservative ensemble in a delightful anachronistic fashion.

A La Disposition A-W 2012 the designers photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou.

Categories ,À La Disposition, ,anachronistic, ,Barb Royal, ,black, ,Charles Dickens, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Grey, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lynda and Daniel Kinne, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Nicolla Ellen, ,Pattern Cutting, ,Period Costumes, ,Sculptural, ,Solemn, ,Structural, ,Theatrical, ,top hats, ,Vauxhall Fahsion Scout, ,Woolly Hats

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Amelia’s Magazine | Scruffy does it: Suzie Winsor presents ‘Beard and Wonderful’

London by Avril kelly2
Bright city lights of London and 123 Bethnal Green Road by Avril Kelly

Vrooosh and we’re in. After a National Express journey from Bristol at 4.10pm we arrived immersed in the mighty traffic of London. From twit updates, information pills I was aware that the Amelia’s Magazine London team had spent the morning working hard whilst I’d been sat at my rectangular Apple.

 Gareth A Hopkins Mattt Bramford

The lovely Matt Bramford, viagra approved Amelia’s Fashion Editor working hard with a smile. Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Getting off the beloved bus, we tubed to Bethnal Green Road, missing our bikes with all our hearts after we discovered we had got off at the wrong tube stop and had to walk the length of the road. When we got to 110 -ish I put on my heels and immediately inflicted a new set speed of slow on us. Then after apparently vacantly walking past the venue, we about turned and eventually arrived at 123 Bethnal Green Road at 8pm. And there we are- in.

6dayriot-ACOFI-by-Mina-Bach
Illustration of 6 Day Riot by Mina Bach

It’s buzzing and I can see the feathered headdress and hear the sound of glorious music coming from the stage. 6 Day Riot are on stage and everyone is loving it. “Drink!” Vodka O flowing, blue bottled Adnams beers in hand – mutter to Charlie, he can’t hear me, the walls are bright and the buzz is loud. But we are smirking at each other, as the swirl of this internal world is clearly alleviating our hours of bus lethargy. There are beautiful outfits from where I want to find out, and make up perfection. I’m loving the wedges, flowing skirts, vintage fabrics and beautiful piled up and flowing hair. Breathing art of their own kind, everyone I want to know and only until midnight to do it. Um, let’s CHAT. Ze atmosphere is perfect for le chat… Bonjoir…

helboyf3

Charlie and I by Abby Wright – This illustration was a present for our families (I know) – but now you can see us both. In art form!

I meet Jess Furseth because we are looking at each other like we know each other, but don’t. It’s like online friend dating. How could this all go minus the screen? It’s fine of course. We natter about the world then pop downstairs with my curly haired man. There we meet Hannah Bullivant and her husband. Chat, chat, banter, banter – her husband is from Jersey too. Cue lots of Jersey yabbering then Jess, Hannah and I discuss the power of the word etc. There are tea cups about the place from earlier’s tea, cake and illustration session, and a comfy Chesterfield sofa for a second of sitting. This is when I briefly meet Amelia’s Dad. It’s all in the eyes! Lovely man.

Akeela pic of me

Picture of moi by Akeela

Boosh and we’re chatting outside. Banter, banter. Then downstairs and the Lily Vanilli cake is being cut. I have a bite of Charlie’s and the white chocolate and sweet cake melts like pink heaven in my mouth. He swipes it away from my chops. Chat, chat. “Hello Amelia!” She’s wearing an amazing cape and gorgeous shoes. So nice to see her. “Fabulous PARTYY!”

ACOFI cake illustration by Danielle Shepherd

CAKE! by Danielle Shepherd. Made by Lily Vanilli.

Abby_Wright_Amelia_Gregory_ACOFI
Illustration of Amelia, lady of the night, by Abby Wright

Chat to a couple of bloggers and see some of the splendid illustrators I speak to everyday. Everywhere I turn is enthusiasm and love for ART! Whilst Charlie is talking about his hair (apparently) to a table of chaps, I had a peek inside a goodie bag. With the purchase of ACOFI, one could have a fabulous tote bag with a Tatty Devine necklace, Dr Hauschka products, Pukka tea, a Moleskine notebook and other goodies inside. I bestowed on the goodies the necessary “ooohs” and “ahhhs” as I pulled out product after postcard after teabag. It was literally a combination of all my favourite things. Splendid!

Gareth A Hopkins Sallly Mumby Croft copy

Contributor Sally Mumby- Croft snapping away. Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Squeal at Matt Bramford before spending the rest of the evening throwing shapes with Chazaroo, Hannah, her husband and the lovely Jess. C.L.A.S.S.I.C. tunes are spun out from The Pipettes and the Mystery Jets DJ. We take breaks outside and before long it all becomes a spinny blur of joy.

MattBramford_ACOFI_280111_430
Stylish people dancing, picture by Matt Bramford

The Pipettes by Avril Kelly

The Pipettes by Avril Kelly

dancing

Hannah Bullivant in the thrust of a move.

It would have been super to have chatted to EVERYONE, but to be honest I adored spending the evening with three fantastic new (now real-life – that’s right writers and Jersey 2) friends. That’s what it was about for me, relaxed fun and an appreciation for the creative and beautiful. I’m proud to be a part of Amelia’s Magazine and all who sail in her.

tube
Photo by Annie Mole, flickr

Excitable, energised, excellently enjoyable. Ends.


Charles Darwin

Charles Darwin, case Alec Guinness, case Byker Grove’s Geoff Keegan and Rolf Harris are among the great and bearded in Suzie Winsor’s collection. Even Edmund Blackadder has a spot in the lineup now hanging in Shoreditch’s KK Outlet gallery. This all seems right, I’m thinking as I admire the quirky ink drawings; I will be the first to admit to having something of a soft spot for a good beard. But what’s the attraction for Suzie?

‘Oh it’s hard to say, but beards seem to add a lot of character to a face,’ Suzie says, as I manage to steal five minutes of her time during the packed opening night last Thursday. ‘It can make a guy seem friendlier, or sometimes more intellectual.’ It started when Suzie was listing people she wanted to draw, and realised lots of them had beards. ‘So I thought, why not make that a theme for an exhibition.’ Proper beards though, none of those sculptured ones, she adds: ‘Bushy and manly, you know!’


Geoff Keegan

While a great beard became a requisite to be part in her show, Suzie points out that all the candidates are also inspirational. ‘I’m a huge Pulp fan’, she says, pointing to the picture of Jarvis Cocker, then to Charles Dickens: ‘I love Oliver Twist.’ As we’re talking, one of Suzie’s other beardy heroes, Rob Ryan, shows up to congratulate his former colleague. Suzie has also worked alongside Tatty Devine and Paul Smith, but has now embarked on the freelance route.


Bearded Suzie

So now, which inspirational characters do you think should seriously consider having a beard, I ask Suzie? She thinks about it for a moment. ‘Well, maybe Larry David, Stuart Murdoch and David Suchet…’ I suggest Robert Downey Jr, to which Suzie nods, and Cate Blanchett, to which she laughs, but I do think it’s a good idea, you know. Then the next day, she emails me: ‘I’ve just realised I haven’t drawn Mick Fleetwood! I’m genuinely gutted! Aaah. I’m going to have to continue the series!’


Beards

Running alongside Suzie Winsor’s art at KK Outlet is a second show, entitled ‘In almost every picture #9’ by Erik Kessels. It’s a series of old, faded Polaroid photos of one family’s very black dog – the animal is clearly loved as it’s present in so many of their pictures, but because of the inadequate camera the dog is practically invisible.

The result is fascinating. Part of Erik Kessels’ found photography series, the dog-shape appears in photo after photo after photo. It’s sort of like the pet isn’t really there, giving it a ghost-like feel. But still, the family has persevered in the hope that one day, their furry friend will be accurately captured on film.



In almost every picture #9

‘Beard and Wonderful’ runs until 28th February at KK Outlet, 24 Hoxton Square, London N1 6PB. For more information see our listing.

Categories ,Alec Guinness, ,Beard and Wonderful, ,Byker Grove, ,Cate Blanchett, ,Charles Darwin, ,Charles Dickens, ,David Suchet, ,Edmund Blackadder, ,Erik Kessels, ,Geoff Keegan, ,illustration, ,In almost every picture #9, ,Jarvis Cocker, ,KK Outlet, ,Larry David, ,london, ,Mick Fleetwood, ,Paul Smith, ,photography, ,rob ryan, ,Robert Downey Jr, ,Rolf Harris, ,shoreditch, ,Stuart Murdoch, ,Suzie Winsor, ,Tatty Devine

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