Amelia’s Magazine | LU FLUX – Sowing old fabrics into something new.

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“The clothes act as an antithesis to the way of the disposable modern world, store making something new out of something old, website reducing waste and consuming less” Lu Flux

Ethical fashion is definitely a buzz word at the moment. Branching out from the confinements and stereotypes of hemp clothing and hippie cast offs, store designers are reinventing ethical fashion with distinct creative flair and a dash of compassion. I would like to introduce the fashion industry’s latest compassionate creative mind, Lu Flux.

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With a passion for refashioning and reusing materials, Lu Flux works with organic, vintage and salvaged fabrics to create sartorially sound garments bursting at the seems with originality and natural elements. Off the wall clothes and hand crafted collections with quirky accents make Lu Flux the polar opposite of throw-away fashion. The ethical fashion designer showcases a distinct passion for textiles, and says “I’ve always been excited by textiles. That’s why I got into fashion.”

Vintage has received a massive resurgence recently, with fashionistas’ trolling charity stores and vintage treasure troves for pre-loved garments to rework and give a modern twist. Lu is no exception to the trend. Seeking out fabrics which have relished a former life, She scours charity shops for new finds to inspire and in some cases, create her collection.

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“It all started when I was volunteering at Shelter. I used to sort through all the donated clothes. Now when I’m looking in charity shops I take the clothes that have either bobbled, ripped or simply aren’t selling. London is increasingly expensive and difficult to get high quality fabrics. Whenever I visit the Isle of Wight to visit my parents, I raid the island!”

Whilst studying fashion at the Edinburgh College of Art, she discovered her love of the “antiqued way pre-loved fabric looks. You can’t replicate it. I love the look of the cotton that’s been washed and worn.” But soon, her whimsical designs ventured out from the confinements of the college studio and onto the Fashion Scout catwalk. Proving to be the turning point in her career, Lu was selected against fierce competition to showcase her designs as part of the “Ones to Watch” show.

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Boasting exceptional quality, Lu Flux fashion has an underlying tone of British eccentricity with a touch of child-like nostalgia. After viewing her garments, you can see a definite love of different techniques and interesting detailing. Lu Flux salvages yarns to weave, knit and patchwork to form her ethical yet fashionable creations. “I love mixing in the traditional techniques that are getting forgotten. I love the textures you can create through different mediums. I don’t want to use just one technique. I want to design for men and women, knit and up cycle.”

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Full to the brim with sartorial panache and an extraordinary mishmash of cherry picked vintage fabrics, she provides the perfect harmony between fashion and ethical motives. Lu Flux is changing the general perspective of ethical fashion, one salvaged fabric at a time.

Photography by Markn for more details see the Lu Flux Website

Categories ,charity shopping, ,Fashion Scout, ,knitting, ,Lu Flux, ,oxfam, ,shelter, ,textiles, ,Throw Away Fashion, ,unique, ,Upcycling, ,vintage, ,weaving

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Romeo Pires

LFW Romeo Pires by Maria del Carmen Smith
Romeo Pires by Maria del Carmen Smith.

Romeo Pires are a new design duo for me. Sergio Pires hails from Brazil and Nicholas Humphrey comes from the UK: they met studying textile design at Guildhall University.

LFW Romeo Pires by Maria del Carmen Smith

The models took to the catwalk in pairs with wildly crimped hair and ghostly white make up that was far from elegant, online but I quickly warmed to this clever collection, advice which saw oversized waists hooked up with massive low slung braces. Everything was lovingly folded or pleated and this translated well into menswear, ed my favourite piece being a dashing short cape. Their textile background was obvious in bleached prints of rusty nails and skulls that broke up the otherwise monochrome palette with added butterscotch and cream.

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Romeo Pires by Bex Glover.

At the end of the show this endearing pair made a hasty entrance together, looking dead cute in the male version of their vision. Definitely a new label to watch.

Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Romeo Pires SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Bex Glover, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Guildhall University, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria del Carmen Smith, ,textiles

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Presentation Review: Eley Kishimoto by Amelia

Eley Kishimoto-squirrel print
Eley Kishimoto by Celine Choo.
Eley Kishimoto by Celine Choo.

Eley Kishimoto have always been high on my list of must-see fashion shows, find but this season they were instead presenting a small exhibition on a side street in Covent Garden. I don’t know why they had chosen to do this but would speculate that perhaps Eley Kishimoto have been less than able to cope with the rapid expansion of their small company during the recession – in recent years they have produced collections for shoes, homewares and furnishings. A lot for a small team to cope with in tough times!

Eley Kishimoto Pattern Lab 2010
Eley Kishimoto Pattern Lab 2010
Eley Kishimoto Pattern Lab 2010.

So it was on Sunday that I took the trip along to their “Pattern Lab” showcase in a shopfront on Kingly Street, wherein they had installed some rotating print-covered hexagonal prisms surrounded by racks of what looked like exercise books. At first glance this seemed unusually reserved for such unabashedly decorative and playful designers, even as it detailed their supposed process of design: from simple question mark into squirrel, into 70s inspired psychedelic neon swirl. Is this really how they design their inimitable textiles? Or merely a clever idea to reveal how at ease they are with the process of producing designs which happily mash different graphic styles together? With my current predilection for all animals of the forest (foxes, mice and squirrels all live in close proximity to my house) I was particularly drawn to their preoccupation with squirrels, shown in both a bold graphic design and a more opulent arts and crafts based textile.

Eley Kishimoto-squirrel print
Eley Kishimoto-squirrel print
Eley Kishimoto squirrel prints.

Down a spiral staircase a small room was attended by a beautiful red-lipped woman, and featured two rails bulging full of the new collection. Too much really for me to take in so I picked up a copy of the simple foldout lookbook to peruse, with girls in fringes placed simply against a blank wall and holding up graphic posters, delightfully water coloured to resemble old photos.

Eley-Kishimoto showroom

Eley Kishimoto by Celine Choo.
Eley Kishimoto by Celine Choo.

Eley Kishimoto Pattern Lab A/W 2010
Eley Kishimoto Pattern Lab A/W 2010
Eley Kishimoto Pattern Lab A/W 2010.

On my way out I was given one of the enigmatic grey exercise books lining the walls, a beautiful limited edition example of the hands-on screen printing that has made the Eley Kishimoto brand such a success. Their Autumn/Winter collection suggests that for now they’ve decided to concentrate on what they do so very well – producing cute, bright, fun clothing. If only I could afford some for myself.

Eley Kishimoto limited edition book A/W 2010
Eley Kishimoto limited edition book A/W 2010
Eley Kishimoto limited edition book A/W 2010
Eley Kishimoto limited edition book A/W 2010.

Categories ,Covent Garden, ,Eley Kishimoto, ,Furnishings, ,Homewares, ,Kingly Street, ,London Fashion Week, ,Pattern Lab, ,Squirrels, ,textiles

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W10 – Iris Van Herpen Catwalk Review

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When the news of Lee Alexander McQueen’s untimely death broke only a week before the start of London Fashion Week, about it everybody quite rightly predicted that the event would become a tribute to the late designer. They were right.

Harold Tillman, approved chair of the British Fashion Council, information pills opened Fashion Week paying tribute to McQueen, speaking of his ‘extraordinary impact’ on both British and international fashion, and inviting us to join in a minute’s silence.

Sarah Brown continued the tributes, to a crowd of McQueen wearers, saying that fashion week would be ‘a reflective time with the passing of Lee McQueen’.

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A tribute wall, erected in the main area, was covered in hand-written postcards in only a number of hours. These included Sarah Brown herself, esteemed designers, colleagues, press and the public alike.

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Over at On|Off, a bunch of iPods had been set into the wall, each containing a different McQueen collection, inviting the attendees to scroll through the images. I could have looked at this for hours.

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Read our full tribute here.
LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_2

When the news of Lee Alexander McQueen’s untimely death broke only a week before the start of London Fashion Week, dosage everybody quite rightly predicted that the event would become a tribute to the late designer. They were right.

Harold Tillman, view chair of the British Fashion Council, order opened Fashion Week paying tribute to McQueen, speaking of his ‘extraordinary impact’ on both British and international fashion, and inviting us to join in a minute’s silence.

Sarah Brown continued the tributes, to a crowd of McQueen wearers, saying that fashion week would be ‘a reflective time with the passing of Lee McQueen’.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_MAIN

A tribute wall, erected in the main area, was covered in hand-written postcards in only a number of hours. These included Sarah Brown herself, esteemed designers, colleagues, press and the public alike.

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LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_3

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_11

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_5

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_6

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Over at On|Off, a bunch of iPods had been set into the wall, each containing a different McQueen collection, inviting the attendees to scroll through the images. I could have looked at this for hours.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_1

Read our full tribute here.
LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_2

When the news of Lee Alexander McQueen’s untimely death broke only a week before the start of London Fashion Week, order everybody quite rightly predicted that the event would become a tribute to the late designer. They were right.

Harold Tillman, drug chair of the British Fashion Council, opened Fashion Week paying tribute to McQueen, speaking of his ‘extraordinary impact’ on both British and international fashion, and inviting us to join in a minute’s silence.

Sarah Brown continued the tributes, to a crowd of McQueen wearers, saying that fashion week would be ‘a reflective time with the passing of Lee McQueen’.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_MAIN

A tribute wall, erected in the main area, was covered in hand-written postcards in only a number of hours. These included Sarah Brown herself, esteemed designers, colleagues, press and the public alike.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_4

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_3

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_11

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_5

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_6

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_7

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LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_9

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_10

Over at On|Off, a bunch of iPods had been set into the wall, each containing a different McQueen collection, inviting the attendees to scroll through the images. I could have looked at this for hours.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_1

Read our full tribute here.
LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_2
A fashionista reflects on Friday morning, erectile wearing a McQueen scarf

When the news of Lee Alexander McQueen’s untimely death broke only a week before the start of London Fashion Week, ambulance everybody quite rightly predicted that the event would become a tribute to the late designer. They were right.

Harold Tillman, chair of the British Fashion Council, opened Fashion Week paying tribute to McQueen, speaking of his ‘extraordinary impact’ on both British and international fashion, and inviting us to join in a minute’s silence.

Sarah Brown continued the tributes, to a crowd of McQueen wearers, saying that fashion week would be ‘a reflective time with the passing of Lee McQueen’.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_MAIN

A tribute wall, erected in the main area, was covered in hand-written postcards in only a number of hours. These included Sarah Brown herself, esteemed designers, colleagues, press and the public alike.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_4

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_3

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_11

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_5

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_6

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_7

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LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_9

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_10

Over at On|Off, a bunch of iPods had been set into the wall, each containing a different McQueen collection, inviting the attendees to scroll through the images. I could have looked at this for hours.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_1

Read our full tribute here.
LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_2
A fashionista reflects on Friday morning, cheapest wearing a McQueen scarf

When the news of Lee Alexander McQueen’s untimely death broke only a week before the start of London Fashion Week, dosage everybody quite rightly predicted that the event would become a tribute to the late designer. They were right.

Harold Tillman, chair of the British Fashion Council, opened Fashion Week paying tribute to McQueen, speaking of his ‘extraordinary impact’ on both British and international fashion, and inviting us to join in a minute’s silence.

Sarah Brown continued the tributes, to a crowd of McQueen wearers, saying that fashion week would be ‘a reflective time with the passing of Lee McQueen’.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_MAIN

A tribute wall, erected in the main area, was covered in hand-written postcards in only a number of hours. These included Sarah Brown herself, esteemed designers, colleagues, press and the public alike.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_4

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_3

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LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_5

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_6

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Over at On|Off, a bunch of iPods had been set into the wall, each containing a different McQueen collection, inviting the attendees to scroll through the images. I could have looked at this for hours.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_1

Read our full tribute here.
LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_2
A fashionista reflects on Friday morning, ambulance wearing a McQueen scarf

When the news of Lee Alexander McQueen’s untimely death broke only a week before the start of London Fashion Week, capsule everybody quite rightly predicted that the event would become a tribute to the late designer.

Harold Tillman, healing chair of the British Fashion Council, opened Fashion Week paying tribute to McQueen, speaking of his ‘extraordinary impact’ on both British and international fashion, and inviting us to join in a minute’s silence.

Sarah Brown continued the tributes, to a crowd of McQueen wearers, saying that fashion week would be ‘a reflective time with the passing of Lee McQueen’.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_MAIN

A tribute wall, erected in the main area, was covered in hand-written postcards in only a number of hours. These included Sarah Brown herself, esteemed designers, colleagues, press and the public alike.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_4

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_3

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_11

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_5

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_6

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_7

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_8

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_9

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_10

Over at On|Off, a bunch of iPods had been set into the wall, each containing a different McQueen collection, inviting the attendees to scroll through the images. I could have looked at this for hours.

LFW_AlexanderMcQueen_1

Read our full tribute here.
The Dutch diva of leather manipulation continues to impress with an absolutely stunning parade of shimmering leather lace body halos and sweeping dresses. First appearing 3 seasons ago with fine wire cages made of umbrella spokes, cost Van Herpen’s successive collections have seen her finesse leather into an altogether stunnning feat of material manipulation.

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Iris Van Herpen illustrated by Katie Harnett

This season’s helios-orange shimmer-backed leather laces were twisted to reveal and conceal as they wrapped around arching shoulders, ampoule floor length dresses and even massive platforms. A performer herself, ambulance most of these dresses are stage ready and we can easily guess which songstress in particluar will be bouncing about in one of these in her next video.

Fear not though most pieces in this collection were extremely wearable for ladies… and the occasional gentleman as she demonstrated by sending a young man down the runway in one of her more basic boxy frocks. And in those platforms, without a single misstep, we girls now have no excuse!

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Iris Van Herpen A/W10 photo courtesy of: Sabrina Morrison

One minidress with bustier detailing is elegantly adorned with pinches and twists of laser cut leather strips, finishing in a halter neck. A gorgeous example of her handicraft paired with what appeared to be etched leather.

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Iris Van Herpen A/W10 photo courtesy of: Sabrina Morrison

A long pigeon grey dress shifted a harness of elegantly draped leather laces from knee to knee the model strutted down the catwalk turning to reveal a sheer black back. Appearing in her usual palette of ecru, black and copper there was also the occasional accent of purple to offset the glowing metallics.

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Iris Van Herpen A/W10 photo courtesy of: Sabrina Morrison

A graduate of Artez Academy in Holland, Van Herpen has drawn past imagery from ancient Egyptians, smoke and birds. This season it was radiation waves. Her frequent allusions to corsetry both in structure and surface detail are still fully present. What is fantastic to see is that as her ambitious pieces develop so is her flattering sense of the human form. Materials no longer dictate and demand but now seem to be taking cues from their handler.

Categories ,artez, ,designer, ,dutch, ,fashion, ,Iris Van Herpen, ,lace, ,leather, ,London Fashion Week, ,textiles

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Amelia’s Magazine | Lee Alexander McQueen – An Irreplaceable Inspiration

All images courtesy of Jasiminne Yip

Born and raised in Kuala Lumpur, medications Malaysia and sprung out of  Central Saint Martins over here, symptoms illustrator Jasminne Yip is my find du jour. Her work has been featured in Selfridges and her controversial subject areas reference her social commentary on the subjects at hand.

‘Beneath The Veil’ seeks to reeducate the viewer about Western understandings of Islamic sexuality. According to Yip, cialis 40mg her work expresses the sensuality and openness of Islamic sexuality before the fundamentalist aspect of the religion shaped many of our preconceptions about Islam. With a graphic style that is reminiscent of a graphic novel, Yip launches bravely into the subject area with a candid, insightful and feminine perspective that has been lacking in contemporary art practice.

In her other work, the backbone of sexuality, social commentary and wit is a constant theme. She explores society, and sometimes herself with an open bravery. No subject seems to be off limits, and no area is unexplored. Her photography project ‘Day, Noon and Night’ explores the cultural and identity shift that she experienced as ‘a wide-eyed ingénue fresh-off-the boat to the gutter-whore of Shoreditch’

Following along with the narrative of self examination pertaining to sexuality ‘MEAT’ is conceived as a summer of ‘trophy fucks’, a post feminist introspective on using men for pleasure based only on their looks, then documenting the experiences into illustrations.

What I like most about Jasminne Yip is her openness and her questioning of her environment about her. There is a real bravery to her work that is uncommon, and quite special.

Her website is located here.


Today there is only one thing on the minds of those working in the fashion sphere: the untimely departure of Alexander McQueen. At the grand age of 68, try our Vivienne Westwood is still churning out the masterpieces, healing season upon season. At a comparatively youthful 40, we could have potentially witnessed another 30 years of inimitable Lee Alexander McQueen inspiration, had he not sadly taken his life in February of this year. Since his arresting entrance to the industry with his implausible 1993 degree show, designers across the planet had been turning their heads and waving their fashion show tickets in awe of this mad futurist. Fifteen years later, Elle magazine described the ‘enfant-terrible’ as “the best fashion designer working in the world today.” Lee McQueen has even been hailed as superior to the legendary Yves Saint Laurent, loosely casting aside such other sartorial deities as Karl Lagerfeld and Westwood herself.

Yes, it is true that Alexander the Great became an integral asset in catapulting the fashion industry years into the future and inspiring other designers to chase his exhilarating visions. Yet, it is important to acknowledge the generations of art and fashion students to whom he offered overwhelming inspiration. Decades of McQueen’s unmatched talent hasn’t only been compromised for the industry, but also to the budding designers and fashionistas who looked up to him as the undoubted ‘best’. “I think that one of the biggest impacts will be on the students. His eccentric work always provided inspiration to a whole range of art and fashion projects,” commented Caroline Druitt, a textiles student. ? ?It is true that he has essentially left behind hoards of wannabe McQueens, gasping for evermore insight into, what was, a brilliant and unique mind.

I have been speaking to one such faithful follower. Carly Moroney, a student from Manchester studying Textiles for Fashion Design, was in the middle of an assignment inspired by McQueen’s work when she heard the news of his death. “My first reaction was one of true shock. I felt devastated… I feel that all art students have lost a huge inspiration in McQueen.” ? ?Like many students, looking at her work, it is clear how closely Moroney admired his ideas and I was blown away by what she presented to me. Intricate patterns; ornate details; flawless composition. Every print was utterly unique and paid true homage to McQueen’s style.


Digital prints by Carly Moroney

“I have taken inspiration from his Spring/Summer 2010 collection,” she said. “I’ve collected imagery of sea creatures and marine life and with this I created digital prints. I am extremely passionate about print and creating prints digitally,” – just as McQueen always was.


Photographs courtesy of catwalking.com

According to a press release, McQueen’s ideas behind the collection were, to no revelation, forward-thinking. As forward-thinking as the next ice age. He was apparently creating an apocalyptic forecast of the future; an ecological meltdown of the world where life on earth would ultimately exist underwater, hence the reptile-patterned dresses and giant shoes that resembled armoured heads of fantastical sea monsters. After the usual brainwave-bending required to take in the next McQueen dream, the style of both dress and shoes respectively became instant fashion staples for 2010, and had students such as Carly Moroney excited and inspired by McQueen’s latest work.

Taking this woman-meets-sea mammals concept, she’s transformed images of marine life and under-the-sea textures into those geometric, layered digital prints. As part of her project she then used these to create designs for garments. Deliciously unusual and audacious, they echo the original designs in that they are somewhat mind-swerving and haven’t been seen before.


Garment illustrations by Carly Moroney

“I felt this was his best collection yet. I love the use of the natural world in his prints and this helped me to begin my project.”


Garment illustrations by Carly Moroney

That is precisely why McQueen has been pure gold to any art student. As one myself, I’m familiar with that seasonal situation; when you have an idea, something to begin the entire concept of your next project. It could be a colour, a texture, something concrete and alive or something abstract. Whatever your starting point, through the archives of McQueen there will be a season in which he has taken that basic notion and exploded it to the edges of artistic boundaries. Those will be the images that you print, cut and stick immediately into your sketchbook. Those will be the images that get those inventive ideas running. Those are the images that have encouraged so many young minds to reach for the skies and turn out their best work.
Carly Moroney is just one example of this. She has the kind of talent that Lee Alexander McQueen has unknowingly surfaced in young creatives all over the world.

After barely seventeen years in the business, he had shaped modern tailoring, introduced many new timeless garments and had twisted fashion shows into spectacles, more than worthy of the theatre stage. Heaven knows what more he could have accomplished if he had only lived longer.

As devastating as it was to see him go, his stunning work will forever live on. Yes, future McQueen inspiration has been lost, to the students in particular, and something will always be missing at fashion weeks across the world. Nevertheless, we are deeply fortunate to have been left with a legacy of such genius.

You can also read our original tribute here.

Categories ,Alexander McQueen, ,Digital Prints, ,fashion, ,Inspiration, ,Lee McQueen, ,Legacy, ,manchester, ,textiles, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,Yves Saint Laurent

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Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Eley Kishimoto – Textile storytelling

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As much a departure from their last SS collection as possible, cheapest Eley Kishimoto’s SS/10 catwalk brought us 70′s styling with Peter Pan collars, pills chunky heels and a full plate of prints. But with brazen pattern combinations their mark was unmistakable. What they called “Beyond The Chintz” was an ode to interior textiles….and no furnishing was safe. With oversize sofa florals, gem colored curtain stripes and eastern pillow prints, the design duo stitched together a collection of nostalgic ethnic fusion.

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William Morris’ decorative signature could be felt in tenting blouses with creeping vines while Scandinavian elements were present in a negative-space two tone spring jacket.
Borrowing from the whisper of red, white and blue pieces from SS/09, we saw pointy graphic prints, crotchet shrugs, and boxy dresses in sunbleached blues.

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Last year’s shiny tailored dresses and complimentary tonal tights were abandoned for gauzy cottons and slouchy socks paired with chunky heels. The latter, although adorable, occasionally misfires when the slippery socks cause toes to ‘hang ten’ over the shoe’s front edge.

Hemlines bounced from knee to mini and blouses were loose and boxy in chiffons and lightweight cottons. A striking all over pheasant feather print turned a twill mechanic’s jumpsuit into a super chic one piece that stole the show.

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Other showstoppers were a pair of tablecloth gingham egg shaped dresses with large citrus polka dots outlined in black fringe and worn with pouf sleeve jersey shirts with their own boldly colored polka dot clusters. Only Eley and Kishimoto could make that work.

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Travels to East India seemed to provide fodder for some earthy tones and more surprise combos with, my personal favorite, a full skirt with mint green bleeding into a bamboo pattern and belted off beneath a fitted brown diamond print blouse. If only winter weren’t on its way!

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The collection felt like a midday nap on a threadbare sofa in the sunroom of your grandma’s house where every textile tells a story and the sunshine looks like lemonade.

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Categories ,british fashion council, ,Eley Kishimoto, ,London Fashion Week, ,Peter Pan, ,prints, ,S/S2010, ,Somerset House, ,textiles, ,William Morris

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Andrew Majtenyi by Amelia

Andrew Majtenyi by Maryanne Oliver
Andrew Majtenyi by Maryanne Oliver

Sometimes fashion designers decide to show in strange venues, there and such was the case with Canadian born designer Andrew Matjyeni, generic who decided to show in a fancy room at the top of an important looking building not far from Somerset House (Canada House, I believe. I can see how that makes sense). Ushered into a lift we were soon bunched into a weird little corridor several floors up, alongside lots of other slightly overheated and irate fashion punters. Not good when you suffer from fashion week freebie overburdenment combined with mild claustrophobia. And I was also bloody STARVIN I tells ya: this being late in the day and having not yet eaten. As Matt and I settled into the front row I casually wondered aloud if it would be okay to gobble down the rest of my Pret sandwich – Matt looked so mortified I quickly thought the better of it. I’m really not very good at fashion week etiquette, but I guess it’s not a good look really is it?

The first thing I loved about Andrew’s collection was the big big crimped hair, held back with delicate plaits. Possibly not what he was trying to sell, but hey, props to the hair stylist! The second thing I really liked was the cute oversized 50s inspired prints – bold, painterly and large, they featured parasol picnic tables, dogs on leads and elegantly dressed ladies on a day out. The pink splash silver birch digital print offered a more modern take on textile design, and it comes as no surprise to learn that Andew Majtenyi prefers to design directly with fabric rather than pen and paper.

Andrew Majtenyi by Maryanne Oliver
Andrew Majtenyi by Maryanne Oliver

Skirts were short short short and delicate pockets on sleeves made for interesting understated details. I can’t in all honesty remember a great deal else, other than it was all tasteful, elegant and wearable. A little research shows that Majtenyi clearly fancies himself a designer for the international jet set. And I quote verbatim from his website: “From his frequent international trips and the latest art/fashion installations, all keep on the pulse of what’s to come in the world of fashion and trends.” Here he also boasts of international tours. I thought those were the sole preserve of rockstars! It’s a shame that I can’t ultimately feel incredibly enthusiastic about the kind of fashion that promotes what I consider a very out of date lifestyle. And a dangerous one at that. Because ultimately someone somewhere will suffer because of the actions of those who take more than they need. My advice? Andrew, stick to doing what you do, well, in one country. We don’t need more global hyperbrands. Really we don’t. Why does everyone want world domination? My two pence, is all.

For Matt Bramford’s view of this show read on here.

Categories ,50s, ,Andrew Majtenyi, ,Canada House, ,catwalk, ,Hyperbrands, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,textiles

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: A Preview

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It has been twelve years since Far released Water and Solutions, drug unwittingly creating the blueprint for post hardcore music and making lead singer Jonah Matranga the godfather of every sensitive boy with a guitar. Thursday, ed Biffy Clyro and Funeral for a Friend cite Far as one of their biggest influences and regularly cover their songs at live shows. After a decade apart, Sacramento’s post hardcore pioneers return with their impressive new album, At Night We Live.

The album is dedicated to close friend and bassist of seminal hard rock outfit Deftones, Chi Cheng, who is currently in a semi-conscious state after a near fatal car accident last year.

As soon as Matranga’s menacing whisper introduces the opening track, Deafening, it is obvious that the masters are back with a renewed enthusiasm for the movement they helped create all those years ago. Shawn Lopez’s growling riffs sound just as potent as they did on previous tracks like Bury White and I Like It.

If You Cared Enough is classic Far at their best. The tension builds with Matranga’s bitter sweet vocals until the satisfying breakdown complete with gloriously catchy chorus erupts like a little earthquake. Far have always been great at making heavy music with radio friendly lyrics and it is perfectly executed here.

A pleasant surprise appears in the form of When I Could See. The bass is sparse meaning the song simply relies on minimalist guitars and haunting vocals to create an unnerving nocturnal atmosphere that has been missing from their previous efforts. It is reassuring to know that the band are not afraid to venture into unknown territory and the results are nothing short of breathtaking.

It is clear that Matranga’s previous outfit, Newendoriginal, have had an effect on their new sound as Give Me a Reason and Burns sound like they could easily have been b-sides from their Thriller album. Not that this is a bad thing: In fact, it shows that the quartet have taken their experiences to create a much more diverse record.

Far were once signed to Sony and touring the world alongside Deftones and Incubus, but somewhere along the lines band tensions and major label pressures forced the group apart. Dear Enemy seems to discuss past problems as Jonah declares: “If our words were guns we would be dead and gone. Why do we fight like this, dear enemy?” This is by far one of the strongest tracks on the album and proves that Far have always found a way to appeal to the mosh pit and the mind simultaneously.

The only track that seems to miss the mark is Fight Song, as it displays none of the band’s most endearing characteristics and sounds like diluted emo rock that you are likely to find on Radio One. The drum rhythm is monotonous throughout and the lyrics simply don’t stand up to poetic prowess of their back catalogue.
The title track, At Night We Live, is a dedication to Deftones bassist Chi Cheng and Matranga’s quivering vocals steal the air from a room as he tells himself, “There was no car crash. There was no blood.” The touching honesty of the lyricism is a fitting tribute to their critically ill friend and a tasteful ode to anyone who has ever lost someone they love.

One of Far’s greatest attributes is that they have always been able to effortlessly combine punishing riffs and tender vocals without sounding insincere. Perhaps Fall Out Boy, My Chemical Romance and every other band that has attempted to imitate their formula over the years should have been paying closer attention because no one does it like the Sacramento based veterans.

The album is equal parts nostalgia for their past releases and snippets of musical ventures each member has worked on since the Far’s initial split back in 2002. All of the aspect that made Water and Solutions so influential are firmly in place but their willingness to tread new ground means that At Night We Live has a lot to offer rock fans that are too young to remember Far from the first time round. Let’s hope Matranga and his reunited band mates bring their brilliant new material to the UK sometime soon.

It has been twelve years since Far released Water and Solutions, more about unwittingly creating the blueprint for post hardcore music and making lead singer Jonah Matranga the godfather of every sensitive boy with a guitar. Thursday, discount Biffy Clyro and Funeral for a Friend cite Far as one of their biggest influences and regularly cover their songs at live shows. After a decade apart, dosage Sacramento’s post hardcore pioneers return with their impressive new album, At Night We Live.

The album is dedicated to close friend and bassist of seminal hard rock outfit Deftones, Chi Cheng, who is currently in a semi-conscious state after a near fatal car accident last year.

As soon as Matranga’s menacing whisper introduces the opening track, Deafening, it is obvious that the masters are back with a renewed enthusiasm for the movement they helped create all those years ago. Shawn Lopez’s growling riffs sound just as potent as they did on previous tracks like Bury White and I Like It.

If You Cared Enough is classic Far at their best. The tension builds with Matranga’s bitter sweet vocals until the satisfying breakdown complete with gloriously catchy chorus erupts like a little earthquake. Far have always been great at making heavy music with radio friendly lyrics and it is perfectly executed here.

A pleasant surprise appears in the form of When I Could See. The bass is sparse meaning the song simply relies on minimalist guitars and haunting vocals to create an unnerving nocturnal atmosphere that has been missing from their previous efforts. It is reassuring to know that the band are not afraid to venture into unknown territory and the results are nothing short of breathtaking.

It is clear that Matranga’s previous outfit, Newendoriginal, have had an effect on their new sound as Give Me a Reason and Burns sound like they could easily have been b-sides from their Thriller album. Not that this is a bad thing: In fact, it shows that the quartet have taken their experiences to create a much more diverse record.

Far were once signed to Sony and touring the world alongside Deftones and Incubus, but somewhere along the lines band tensions and major label pressures forced the group apart. Dear Enemy seems to discuss past problems as Jonah declares: “If our words were guns we would be dead and gone. Why do we fight like this, dear enemy?” This is by far one of the strongest tracks on the album and proves that Far have always found a way to appeal to the mosh pit and the mind simultaneously.

The only track that seems to miss the mark is Fight Song, as it displays none of the band’s most endearing characteristics and sounds like diluted emo rock that you are likely to find on Radio One. The drum rhythm is monotonous throughout and the lyrics simply don’t stand up to poetic prowess of their back catalogue.
The title track, At Night We Live, is a dedication to Deftones bassist Chi Cheng and Matranga’s quivering vocals steal the air from a room as he tells himself, “There was no car crash. There was no blood.” The touching honesty of the lyricism is a fitting tribute to their critically ill friend and a tasteful ode to anyone who has ever lost someone they love.

One of Far’s greatest attributes is that they have always been able to effortlessly combine punishing riffs and tender vocals without sounding insincere. Perhaps Fall Out Boy, My Chemical Romance and every other band that has attempted to imitate their formula over the years should have been paying closer attention because no one does it like the Sacramento based veterans.

The album is equal parts nostalgia for their past releases and snippets of musical ventures each member has worked on since the Far’s initial split back in 2002. All of the aspect that made Water and Solutions so influential are firmly in place but their willingness to tread new ground means that At Night We Live has a lot to offer rock fans that are too young to remember Far from the first time round. Let’s hope Matranga and his reunited band mates bring their brilliant new material to the UK sometime soon.

It has been twelve years since Far released Water and Solutions, store unwittingly creating the blueprint for post hardcore music and making lead singer Jonah Matranga the godfather of every sensitive boy with a guitar. Thursday, search Biffy Clyro and Funeral for a Friend cite Far as one of their biggest influences and regularly cover their songs at live shows. After a decade apart, Sacramento’s post hardcore pioneers return with their impressive new album, At Night We Live.

The album is dedicated to close friend and bassist of seminal hard rock outfit Deftones, Chi Cheng, who is currently in a semi-conscious state after a near fatal car accident last year.

As soon as Matranga’s menacing whisper introduces the opening track, Deafening, it is obvious that the masters are back with a renewed enthusiasm for the movement they helped create all those years ago. Shawn Lopez’s growling riffs sound just as potent as they did on previous tracks like Bury White and I Like It.

If You Cared Enough is classic Far at their best. The tension builds with Matranga’s bitter sweet vocals until the satisfying breakdown complete with gloriously catchy chorus erupts like a little earthquake. Far have always been great at making heavy music with radio friendly lyrics and it is perfectly executed here.

A pleasant surprise appears in the form of When I Could See. The bass is sparse meaning the song simply relies on minimalist guitars and haunting vocals to create an unnerving nocturnal atmosphere that has been missing from their previous efforts. It is reassuring to know that the band are not afraid to venture into unknown territory and the results are nothing short of breathtaking.

It is clear that Matranga’s previous outfit, Newendoriginal, have had an effect on their new sound as Give Me a Reason and Burns sound like they could easily have been b-sides from their Thriller album. Not that this is a bad thing: In fact, it shows that the quartet have taken their experiences to create a much more diverse record.

Far were once signed to Sony and touring the world alongside Deftones and Incubus, but somewhere along the lines band tensions and major label pressures forced the group apart. Dear Enemy seems to discuss past problems as Jonah declares: “If our words were guns we would be dead and gone. Why do we fight like this, dear enemy?” This is by far one of the strongest tracks on the album and proves that Far have always found a way to appeal to the mosh pit and the mind simultaneously.

The only track that seems to miss the mark is Fight Song, as it displays none of the band’s most endearing characteristics and sounds like diluted emo rock that you are likely to find on Radio One. The drum rhythm is monotonous throughout and the lyrics simply don’t stand up to poetic prowess of their back catalogue.
The title track, At Night We Live, is a dedication to Deftones bassist Chi Cheng and Matranga’s quivering vocals steal the air from a room as he tells himself, “There was no car crash. There was no blood.” The touching honesty of the lyricism is a fitting tribute to their critically ill friend and a tasteful ode to anyone who has ever lost someone they love.

One of Far’s greatest attributes is that they have always been able to effortlessly combine punishing riffs and tender vocals without sounding insincere. Perhaps Fall Out Boy, My Chemical Romance and every other band that has attempted to imitate their formula over the years should have been paying closer attention because no one does it like the Sacramento based veterans.

The album is equal parts nostalgia for their past releases and snippets of musical ventures each member has worked on since the Far’s initial split back in 2002. All of the aspect that made Water and Solutions so influential are firmly in place but their willingness to tread new ground means that At Night We Live has a lot to offer rock fans that are too young to remember Far from the first time round. Let’s hope Matranga and his reunited band mates bring their brilliant new material to the UK sometime soon.

Ayroza Dobson 2009, price photographed by Matt Bramford

It’s that time of year again when graduating fashion students up and down the country prepare to showcase their hard work from the previous three years, cialis 40mg in front of industry professionals, journalists and fashionistas for the first time.

The event takes place from Sunday to Wednesday, with over 20 catwalk shows and countless exhibitions. The best part is, everybody can go! You can pay to visit the exhibition and pay for the shows on an individual basis – it’s a little expensive but the quality and craftsmanship on display is well worth a bit of your cash. It’s also a unique insight into what might happen in the fashion industry in the coming years – you never know, you might see a show featuring the next John Galliano or Vivienne Westwood.

Here’s a look at a few of the highlights from last year, and a selection of colleges and universities we’re looking forward to seeing this year…


Myrto Stamou, image courtesy of Catwalking

UCA Rochester
The students at UCA Rochester have their work cut out this year, defending their crown – last year womenswear student Myrto Stamou scooped the top prize Gold Award. Her collection will soon be hitting the high street thanks to principal GFW sponsors River Island. Myrto, originally from Greece, presented a Grecian-inspired collection. This year looks set to be even better for the students at UCA.

Ravensbourne
Ravensbourne is always high on the list of ones to watch, and the fact that their graduate show this year has already sold out is a testament to the hype surrounding this award-winning college (it was Ravensbourne who took home the accolade of the Gold Award in 2008).


Mehmet Ali, image courtesy of Catwalking

Ravensbourne has a reputation for nurturing exemplary menswear designers, and 2009 was no exception. Mehmet Ali’s highly sophisticated collection, in neutral pink and pale colours, deservedly secured him the 2009 Menswear Award, whilst Calum Harvey‘s knitwear collection, consisting of gigantic scarves and tulle tiered capes, bagged a second prize for the college. Womenswear isn’t to be overlooked either, with a range of quirky digital prints on offer this time last year.


Calum Harvey, image courtesy of Catwalking

Northumbria
Okay, I’m biased – I studied at Northumbria and will always follow the progression of students’ work closely. But, having said that, year after year the university and her students produce strong collections with emphasis on style and craftsmanship. I was delighted last year when the course bagged three awards – Charlotte Simpson won the Zandra Rhodes Catwalk Textiles Award, whilst the Fashion Innovation Award and the Creative Marketing Award were won by Nicola Morgan and Christina Duggan respectively.

What I like most about Northumbria is that they are always fashion-forward in their thinking, and technical engineering is married with the aesthetic properties of materials: Steph Butler’s laser-cut numbers and Holly Storer’s cute origami flowers…


Steph Butler, photographed by Matt Bramford


Holly Storer, photographed by Matt Bramford

Manchester
At Manchester, they always mix things up a bit, and you’re certain to find things here that you don’t see anywhere else. Last year, the runway was transformed into a Hollywood-esque theatre with swirling spotlights dramatically lighting up the models. They cover all bases, too – their knitwear, menswear, womenswear and print is all astounding. Romy Townsend’s menswear knit collection featured oversized cape/cardigan hybrids…


Romy Townsend, photographed by Matt Bramford

…while Rosie Keating’s intriguing shapeless smocks, using the latest laser-cutting techniques, were a real treat.


Rosie Keating, photographed by Matt Bramford

International Show
This year sees the intervention of graduating designers from around the world, presented together in the rather unimaginatively titled ‘The International Show’. This will feature colleges from Amsterdam, Hamburg, Basel, Saint-Petersburg and Singapore, and should provide a welcome relief sandwiched in the middle of the week.


Student’s work from the Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Tickets for shows are available here and it’s advisable you book in advance as they will sell out very quickly on the day. If you fancy a nose around the exhibition, though, you can pay on the door! Enjoy!

Categories ,Calum Harvey, ,Charlotte Simpson, ,Christina Duggan, ,Earls Court, ,Gold Award, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Greece, ,International designers, ,John Galliano, ,knitwear, ,london, ,manchester, ,Mehmet Ali, ,menswear, ,Myrto Stamou, ,Nicola Morgan, ,Northumbria, ,print, ,ravensbourne, ,River Island, ,Romy Townsend, ,Rosie Keating, ,Steph Butler, ,students, ,textiles, ,UCA Rochester, ,University, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,Womenswear, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: UCLAN Central Lancashire


Emma Box, find illustrated by Lesley Barnes

So, reigning champions (or at least winners of 2009 Gold Award) UCA Rochester took to the catwalks on Tuesday to show their wares in a bid to cling on to their title amongst the heavyweights we’d already seen at Graduate Fashion Week.

I’m very pleased to announce that they certainly put up a good fight. With a simple chandelier hung from the ceiling above the catwalk, the show began with a rather long romantic song – thank God too, because my guest was running late and he managed to sneak in during the song in the nick of time.

First up was Alexa Papavasileiou who presented a modest yet striking collection that packed a few discrete punches (okay, I’ll stop with the boxing metaphors now). Body-concious printed dresses with full-length sleeves wrapped models in organic suits, while drapes hung over the models creating flattering lines. The most interesting twist was the appearance of constructed stilettos which had a grungy, paper mache effect and gave this sleek collection an edgy twist.

Other escapades in weird and wonderful shoe design were brought to us by Lydia Vousvouni, whose deconstructed womenswear tailoring had a futuristic feel, teamed with crazy shoes that looked like art deco sculptures.


Lydia Vousvouni, illustrated by Abi Daker

Rebecca Watson in stark contrast dressed her models in very eery skeletal masks, bringing a little touch of death-glamour to the runway. The clothes in comparison were relatively simple, consisting of cropped-sleeve tops, two-tone leggings and some pretty neat tailoring.

More digital prints on the catwalk; this time in Emma Box’s structured collection. Micro-skirts and leggings in said prints were teamed with bolero-length jackets with exaggerated shoulders, giving models a dash of sex appeal and masses of style.

Digital prints again, from the Gareth-Pugh-esque Alex Oliver. Her models were transformed into futuristic creatures, with emphasis on shoulders (huge, huge shoulders). Catsuits or short dresses in a psychedelic print were teamed with leather jackets with scary spikes; the climax being a model with a Margiela-style eye covering as part of a hood. It was scary but sexy at the same time.


Alex Oliver, illustrated by Lesley Barnes

The first menswear collection from Rochester was that of Chelsea Bravo, whose models had the appearance of modern-day gladiators. Smock t-shirts with scoop necks emphasised muscular form and Chelsea’s palette of muted colours including sand, burgundy and blue had a sophisticated edge.

Vicky Jolly presented one of the most sophisticated collections I’ve seen this year. Her couturier-like craftsmanship created elegant dresses, with twists and turns in fabrics flattering the female form.


Vicky Jolly, illustrated by Alli Coate

Finally, after what felt like waiting for decades, Hallam Burchett ramped up the glamour factor to a big fat 10. Models sashayed and swished their hips to Donna Summer’s Bad Girls whilst wearing an all-green silky collection, embellished with dazzling crystals and accessorised with demi-gloves. Sod the tits or legs rule in Burchett’s short, short strapless dress and flaunt what you’ve got at the disco! This 1970s-inspired collection had the cuts and lines to make it contemporary, though.

More menswear now, from Anachee Sae Lee and Cherelle Reid. The former was a contemporary take on colloquial dressing and conjured up images of Sherlock Holmes, Oliver Twist, chimney sweeps and Victorian funeral directors all at the same time. High values in tailoring made this a tip-top collection, with fitted suits teamed with neck-bows and crisp shirts with bib detailing were accessorised with sleek shirt-armbands and porkpie hats.


Anachee Sae Lee, illustrated by Abi Daker

Cherelle Reid, whilst employing similar tailoring elements, was an entirely different look. In a strong micro-collection worthy of a slot in any upmarket store come Autumn Winter 2010, models wore silky harem pants which tapered tightly, low-cut v-neck tops and formal jackets. The craftsmanship look exquisite, but the pecs were a bit much *fans brow*

In amidst a whole load of futuristic and structured collections at GFW this year, a welcome breath of fresh air came from show closer Carla Grima. Her magical Grecian-inspired collection was a burst of much-needed colour, and while it wasn’t a clangy hipster spectacle like some show finales, it was understated glamour at its best. Each dress created an illusionary effect as it hung effortlessly from the models, flattering their waif figures.

Having written this post-Gala Show, I now know that UCA Rochester didn’t manage to hold onto their crown as Gold Award winners for 2010. Amongst so much incredible talent, it’s so difficult to stand out. Nevertheless, each collection was incredibly strong, astonishingly creative, and never, ever boring.

Rochester, you’re all winners anyway.

Danielle Reed, malady illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

The Central Lancashire show was an upbeat, approved patriotic affair. Models strutted down the catwalk to a stonking soundtrack provided by students from the performing arts department, and we waved collections along with the cute Union Jack flags left on each seat.  

The clothes were a lot of fun too – with the standout students playing around with conventional British icons – from Beefeaters and Big Ben to British school uniforms.  

Kirsty Stringfellow created interesting textures with her whimsical collection of knitted designs. Column dresses in thick, appliquéd floral cream ruched across the models’ chests like a curtain, and were adorned with sparkly crochet, printed lace and gold netting. Whilst some of the curtain-esque dresses seemed a little heavy, Stringfellow is clearly gifted at manipulating different textures – the fine-knit cream designs with intricate layers of ruffles were sheer romance.  


Kirsty Stringfellow, illustrated by Zarina Liew

On the other end of the scale, Danielle Reed and Rachel Wolstenhome both had fun with a tough, urban take on sportswear. Reed paired white bobby socks with black Dr. Martens, black grommet-laced waistcoats with slouchy joggers and manipulated aertex fabric into loose jumpsuits. The effect was a strong collection of grunge-inspired sportswear, with PVC fabrics and a monochrome palette adding a gothic edge.  


Danielle Reed, illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Wolstenhome created the sole male collection on show, and her futuristic sportswear borrowed shapes and fabrics from a manner of sportswear, a mash up of scuba-esque one-pieces, foam hoods, and deconstructed jersey sweat pants, with cut-out holes and harem-style drapes and folds.  

Rachel Wolstenholme, illustrated by Aniela Murphy

A special mention should also go to Sunny Kular for her attempt to spice up school uniforms with Indian elements. We loved seeing that boring grey fabric we remember from our school days twisted into sari shapes, ties and blazers in Ikat prints and jackets emblazoned with a ‘Ganesh’ school badge.  


Sunny Kalar, illustrated by Donna McKenzie

But UCLAN’s strongest suits are clearly printed textiles, forming the basis of two of the most eye-catching collections.  

Jessica Thompson’s surreal collection of printed designs was full of quirky, cartoonish imagery, manipulated onto a spectrum of designs, from fitted shift dresses to sporty anoraks. Everything demanded attention, from the Beefeater printed slip that made the model into a marching drummer, to the dreamy shifts emblazoned with chimps and birds.

Some images were distorted into unrecognisable shapes and quirky patterns, forcing a closer look.  The final piece was a red, floor length printed mac, that looked like it was printed with moon craters – the coolest cover up for a rainy day.  


Jessica Thompson, illustrated by Gemma Milly

Saving the best till last – Sara Wadsworth’s amazing printed collection chimed with the patriotic mood. The whole collection was crafted in chiffon, printed with British icons – the Union Jack, Big Ben the London Eye and what looked like parts of Trafalgar Square, all blown up, re-sized, and patterned across wisps of fabric.


Sara Wadsworth, illustrated by Abi Daker

Wadsworth let the prints do the talking, choosing almost sheer chiffon in muted shades of grey, white and occasional splashes of olives and teal. Bright yellow bras peeked out from beneath the designs, ranging from floor length kaftans to a Vivienne Westwood-esque draped dress, and a sweet smock top and short combo. Who would have thought our most touristy landmarks could be re-imagined into such wearable designs?

Images courtesy of catwalking.com

Categories ,Appliqué, ,Beefeaters, ,Big Ben, ,british, ,Central Lancs, ,Danielle Reed, ,Dr. Martens, ,Earls Court, ,Ganesh, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,India, ,Jessica Thompson, ,Kirsty Stringfellow, ,knitwear, ,london, ,london eye, ,menswear, ,print, ,PVC, ,Rachel Wolstenholme, ,Sara Wadsworth, ,School Uniform, ,Sportwear, ,Sunny Kular, ,textiles, ,Tourism, ,Trafalgar Square, ,UCLan, ,Union Jack, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | British Fashion Designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia A/W 2011: Marios Schwab

Marios Schwab A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins
Marios Schwab A/W 2011 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Marios Schwab was definitely the most friendly of the three Fashion East designers who came to Moscow with us: never underestimate the power of a simple smile my friends. He made the effort to chat with other attendees of the British Council initiative and we also spent quite a lot of time talking to his delightful sales agent Yiannis, site who sells the Marios Schwab collection through the Rainbow Wave showroom.

Marios Schwab A/W 2011 by Amber Cassidy
Marios Schwab A/W 2011 by Amber Cassidy.

As someone who predominantly works on the press side of fashion the trip to Russia was a really great way to find out more about other aspects of the fashion business, more about especially the importance of a good sales agent, and how many stockists is deemed a good thing: something which I gleaned from chatting with fashion consultant Toby Meadows and PR maestro Michael Salac of Blow PR.

Marios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia Gregory
Marios Schwab A/W 2011, all photography by Amelia Gregory.

Marios Schwab is the most well known of the Fashion East designers and as such he had the prime late spot on Sunday 3rd April, and a gigantic catwalk in a much larger conference hall at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. Due to some complications dealing with an all Russian hair and make up team the show ended up starting over an hour late, but we didn’t mind… by this point the whole British Council crew were getting on like a house on fire, and I had an interesting conversation with a girl who teaches oligarch children. Not sure where I stand on the ethics of teaching oil barren brats but how jealous am I? I would love to see inside those mansions.

Marios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia Gregory

I imagine that even the most seasoned of designers might have baulked at the sheer size of the massive catwalk but the show worked a treat. Marios Schwab makes beautiful tailored dresses that manage to be both eminently clever and yet highly sellable. For this show the A/W 2011 collection was styled with slicked back hair and glossy bare make up, and if there was any trouble achieving these looks it wasn’t obvious in this incredibly confident showing.

Marios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia Gregory

Using a palette of muted beiges, creams, russet reds, forest green, mustard and black, Marios showed exactly why the details are so important. Everything was finely considered, from the beautiful hip buckles to the beaded ribbing that emphasised a womanly shape on breasts and shoulders. He may be still in the early stages of his career but this is a man to watch. Charming, talented and destined for very great things.

Marios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia GregoryMarios Schwab A/W 2011 Russia photography by Amelia Gregory
Marios Schwab A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Amber Cassidy, ,Blow PR, ,British Council, ,catwalk, ,Fashion East, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marios Schwab, ,Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, ,Michael Salac, ,Moscow, ,oil, ,Oligarch, ,pr, ,Practicum: British Fashion, ,Rainbow Wave, ,Russia!, ,Sales, ,tailoring, ,Toby Meadows, ,Yiannis

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