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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Olivia Rubin

Tosha by Rebecca Strickson

Danielle Lloyd and Konnie Huq, purchase illustrated by Lisa Stannard

Olivia Rubin’s show was to be held at Jalouse in Hanover Square – a place I’d hear of but never actually ventured in to. It was to be my last womenswear show (although I didn’t know it at the time, ed such is life!) and after a long, grueling day I needed a big drink. Luckily, these were on hand.

Outside, glamorous ladies and gents queued to get in, all throwing their tickets into the air, shouting the names of their publications or various relationships with Olivia. When I finally got inside, the Only Way is Essex girl group Lola were being ravished by a pack of pervy photographers screaming their names. To my left was Danielle Lloyd, an intriguing shade of orange; to my right, Jason Gardiner sat in a booth surrounded by a harem of orange honeyz. Konnie Huq was there. What the hell was going on? I was completely baffled. We’d featured Olivia in the past – I adored her artists-inspired collection, but I had no idea she had such an, erm, orange following.

Illustration by Fritha Strickland

There were no seats available – the show was to take place on a precarious plinth around the main area of the club, with guests littered around the plinth in sunken seats. I positioned myself by a wall and necked a cocktail. Whilst waiting for the show to start, I Twittered and checked my emails, slightly aware of somebody standing next to me but not looking up to notice. Hilariously, it was contributor Lauren, who had been stood there for a good ten minutes without either of us realising. This is the kind of thing that happens to your brain during fashion week. I could have been stood next to Naomi Campbell and wouldn’t have noticed (not that Lauren isn’t gorgeous herself).

Illustration by Michelle Urval Nyrén

The show began to rapturous applause, with the first model coming out from behind a make-shift backstage area right behind where I was standing. It was difficult to know where to look, and I missed the first few outfits due to glaring at the audience and being mesmerised by Jalouse’s crystal ceiling.

Olivia has quickly risen up the fashion ranks with her playful, vibrant prints using a whole load of inspiration. This time was no exception – brick patterns, speech bubbles, floral prints on silk and animal prints were all on display under the glittery lights. The shapes and cuts seemed a little more sophisticated this time around – Olivia’s staple playful dresses were still there in vibrant colours, but the addition of figure-hugging jersey tops and cropped trousers added a new, demure look. Lace details had been added to some pieces, sexing them up a little. Jersey and silks had been married for great effect. Sexy translucent shirts worn over lace underwear add even more kink to this fab collection.

Illustration by Jaymie O’Callaghan

Illustration by Madi Illustrates

Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

Many of the pieces featured wrap-around details that flatter the figure – not that any of these hot models needed any flattering, but I imagine that sweeping necklines and pinched waists can be pulled off by even the most Rubenesque figure. Longer, almost floor-length numbers with vibrant graphic patterns closed the show – the final walkthrough leaving me on edge as these glamorous girls in vertiginous heels swaggered around the raised plinth.

One of the Only Way Is Essex birds, illustrated by Lisa Stannard

After the show, me and Amelia enjoyed a cocktail or two and had a bit of a gossip, keeping one eye on the attendees. We stood near the official photo point, me with my camera around my neck – one of the guests asked if I could take her picture. She didn’t ask why I was taking pictures or which publication I was from, she just wanted her photograph taken. Well, why not? Here she is – I hope she sees it (and likes it, obv).

All photography by Matt Bramford

See more of Lisa and Michelle’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday March 4th, 2011 1:49 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,catwalk, ,Danielle Lloyd, ,Fritha Strickland, ,Hanover Square, ,Jalouse, ,Jason Gardiner, ,Jaymie O’Callaghan, ,Konnie Huq, ,Lisa Stannard, ,Lola, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Madi Illustrates, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,Olivia Rubin, ,Orange, ,print, ,review, ,Tan, ,The Only Way is Essex, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Ziad Ghanem

Ziad Ghanem by Avril Kelly

What an amazing show; Ziad Ghanem has trumped everything else I’ve seen this week. Opening with a model dressing in a dark, pharmacy dramatic floor length strapless gown, troche with green feathers, stilts and skull makeup the audience were cheering from the off.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory

The front row was packed out with the eccentrically dressed – Boy George almost blended into the background in a bright yellow hat and full face of makeup. Special mention has to go to the PVC clad, (and complete with blow up hair), London artist Pandemonia, sitting opposite me. Together with a matching blow up dog, she must have been boilin’!

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ziad Ghanem by Alison Day

The loud show, with music changes more frequent than model changes provided clapping, laughing and unanimous approval – so much so that no one seemed to care that the show started an almost an hour late. Male and female models took to the catwalk in stunning creations – capes, gigantic earrings and tremendously tight dresses were wriggled, danced and glided down the runway on joker-style made-up faces.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory

The models came in all shapes and sizes but voluptuous curves and a heaving bosom was the order of the evening. Corset dresses that pushed said bosoms up and out were so tight that somewhere Scarlett Johansen was blushing. Full length floaty gowns in pale hues of blue, deep reds, sparkling gold and matte grey also allowed for plenty of swishing, and cloak spinning as the models made their way towards the waiting photographers.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ziad Ghanem by Madi

My favourite dress was the bright fuschia deep cut and backless cocktail dress that nipped in perfectly at the waist. The shiny nature of the material was so unashamedly trashy that it avoided (I think) being either tacky or quality street wrapper-esque. Other notable highlights of the show include a deathly bride and groom, solemnly showering the crowd with petals at the end of the show, and the model who pirouetted her way backwards after walking down the catwalk. All in all, a brilliant show – exciting, entertaining and some truly beautiful clothes.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Florence Massey on Wednesday February 23rd, 2011 4:40 pm

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Amelia’s, ,Avril Kelly, ,AW11, ,boy george, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gowns, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Madi, ,Pandemonia, ,Ziad Ghanem

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Menswear Day Presentation Review: Mr Start

Cakes for Japan

Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

To those of you that have been to any of the Start boutiques in Shoreditch you’ll know they represent a relaxed luxury that more than compliments the clothes. This is most true for the mens formalwear boutique. I love it and could quiet happily spend hours in there. So when I saw that the Mr Start presentation was being held in One Aldwych I was very excited. Having graced the lobby bar with my presence on at least one occasion to sip their very tasty cocktails, price I couldn’t think of a more suitable venue. Sadly we were shuffled downstairs to a tiny and ill-lit room. Pleased we’d arrived early to avoid the mounting queues, for sale myself and Matt surveyed the clothes.

Illustration by Joana Faria

Thankfully the collection more than made up for the choice of venue, as did the dynamicism of Mr Start himself, and the lovely Brix Smith Start. Seeing people passionate about what they do never fails to lift my spirits. Despite living my life in jeans, I have a love of all things formal. I long for the day that dress down Fridays are a thing of the past; I’m just too lazy to do it myself. Very hypocritical, you might say. Suits, jackets and ties are almost always appropriate attire, however, they often take more consideration and thought than I am capable of bleary eyed at 7am on workday morning.

All photography by Matt Bramford

This collection would inspire me to rise just that little bit earlier and make just a bit more effort. Mixing heritage fabrics such as Harris Tweeds with a modern cut, the collection worked really well. The colours chosen also lifted this collection from being too stayed; crushed grape and turquoise green statement jackets provided a subtle lift to everything. But we weren’t just treated to suits, elegantly tailored shirts in a variety of collar shapes were also a sight to behold. A clean colour palette of white, black and grey, the shirts complimented the suiting without overpowering it; my favourite being a smaller but starkly cutaway collar. I’d say understated luxury for those in the know was a common theme of the whole collection but the deep velvet suit and dinner jackets were far from understated.

Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

Another great piece was the double breasted cropped peacoat. We’ve seen these on every boy band and All Saints clone in the past few seasons, but there was still something fresh about this piece. Mr Start’s accessories were equally strong with many of the fashion pack gushing over the suede brogues and loafers. They have a definite place on my wishlist, but I fear no amount of scotchguarding will protect them from my clumsy ways.

In store this collection will shine even brighter than it did during the presentation, and leaving the store dressed head to toe in Mr Start will be a feat of inordinate self control. It’s just a shame the lighting and crowding let things down a little. Here’s looking forward to next seasons presentation, and a quick/expensive trip to Shoreditch in the meantime.

See more from June Chanpoomidole and Joana Faria in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Written by Nick Bain on Friday March 18th, 2011 10:18 am

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Brix Smith Start, ,Joana Faria, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,menswear, ,Menswear Day, ,Mr Start, ,One Aldwych, ,Presentation, ,review, ,shoreditch, ,Start, ,Suits, ,tailoring

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Menswear Day Presentation Review: Mr Start

Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

To those of you that have been to any of the Start boutiques in Shoreditch you’ll know they represent a relaxed luxury that more than compliments the clothes. This is most true for the mens formalwear boutique. I love it and could quiet happily spend hours in there. So when I saw that the Mr Start presentation was being held in One Aldwych I was very excited. Having graced the lobby bar with my presence on at least one occasion to sip their very tasty cocktails, I couldn’t think of a more suitable venue. Sadly we were shuffled downstairs to a tiny and ill-lit room. Pleased we’d arrived early to avoid the mounting queues, myself and Matt surveyed the clothes.

Illustration by Joana Faria

All photography by Matt Bramford

Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

See more from June Chanpoomidole and Joana Faria in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Written by Nick Bain on Friday March 18th, 2011 10:18 am

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Womenswear Preview

Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

I’ll never say a bad word about Mr Paul Costelloe. His was the first on-schedule show I ever saw, drug visit this back in 2008. It was a disaster – you can read my review here (my have we come a long way with our fashion week reviews). Despite that particular experience being pretty traumatic, viagra 40mg I always look forward to what he’ll present us each season, and I genuinely believe he’s the most underrated designer on the schedule – AND he always gets that hideous graveyard 9.30am opening slot. Anyway, enough of the pity, I’m sure he gets along just fine.

Paul Costelloe chatting outside the tent, post-show. All photography by Matt Bramford

Of course, this wouldn’t be fashion week without a cycling trauma, and it was on Friday morning that my back brake completely went so I was left only with the front one, guaranteed to send me flying over the handlebars should I actually need to stop. A quick trip into miserable Evans Cycles soon sorted this but meant I had to dash like a lunatic to Somerset House and just managed to leg it inside before the show started.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

I was disappointed not to be saddled up against those two lovely old dears I met last time – this time I endured a rather unforgiving fashion blogger. I tend to stand at the top of one of the aisles to secure good pictures, but said fashion blogger deemed it acceptable to stand in front of me. I politely explained that I had chosen that spot on purpose, and I would really appreciate it if she’d take her enormous Mulberry bag and ridiculously large coat somewhere else. She moved an inch to the left. Cheers, then!

God I’m going on a bit, aren’t I? Well, the show itself was brilliant. This season saw Costelloe move in a more sophisticated direction. The catwalk was awash with luxurious tweeds and tartans in vibrant colours. Structured twin-sets with a contemporary edge stood side-by-side a-line dresses in unusual materials; delicious floral prints were teamed with cropped blazers, while hints of military on more a-line dresses were complimented with a roaring forties/fabulous fifties soundtrack of Bobby Darin and The Andrews Sisters (maybe). Poker-straight red wigs added a sexy, playful edge to what is a more mature range of womenswear.

Last season I wasn’t that struck on the menswear, but this year I am ALL OVER IT. Again, taking a more sophisticated direction, sharp suits (in similar tartans and tweeds to those seen on the girls) were aplenty. Floor length coats and double-breasted blazers really complimented the womenswear. Contrasting trousers in really bright colours were paired with tame blazers, allowing Costelloe’s men to be quirky but smart at the same time.

Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

It was a massive collection – the biggest I saw during the day – but each piece had been carefully selected to compliment the next and never was it boring. The only way I could have enjoyed the show more was if Unforgiving Fashion Blogger hadn’t been such a knob. Hilariously she was fighting for my prime photographer’s spot to take pictures with her Blackberry! Well, I ask you.

Another great outing for PC, though. Long may he reign – in a sea of often miserable A/W 2011 dark collections, his whimsical approach and playful colours are a ray of sunshine.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Jena Theo Matilde Sazio Jena.Theo LFW A/W 2011, viagra 60mg Illustration by Matilde Sazio

I was ushered in through the door by a geezer of a Londoner chap, symptoms straight through to a high heeled officious lady, then again to the very highest heels clinking their way to the front row to show me my seat. There were bags on my seat. Bags filled with goodies. Splendid. The lady next to me was bouncing her baby on her knee, as said baby was knawing on a pain au chocolat. “Nice earmuffs” I said to her, pointing towards her penguin earmuffs on her head. “To protect her from the sound. It can get very loud. But she does love it here. Loves the shows.” How much do I want a chilled out, cute baby like her. Also, cool mother! I know mothers who wouldn’t take their child to Tescos for fear of its screaming the flourescently lit shed down. To the left, was a mad, bright white, highly lit, flashing, mini bulb, sensation. Magic eyes, transfixing, blinding… The lady next to me shields her eyes for a bit, because of the intensity! Then it all went dark and we were treated to intro music as the anticipation built. Dum, dum, dum….dum… dum. EXCITED.

Jena.Theo LFW A/W 2011, Illustration by Karina Yarv

The show began. I was pleased to see that what was being presented was completely wearable. Definitely in London. Perhaps less so in Bristol – it was slightly ‘too’ urban for the West Country. However, if I had a choice (and el cash), some of those pieces would be getting worn in Falfael King and that secret bar we’ve been meaning to go to for a while… at least supper club. Or – ah see, I kind of want to move to London- again. Don’t get the wrong impression of Briz, I beg you. Anyway, the show was very charcoal, black and cream orientated. The models all had black stripes across their eyes and otherwise bare faces. This made them look like mysterious, moody superheros. I liked it, as it really set of the simple coloured, pieces; the models all expressionless (course), their masks and the movement of the light or dark pieces worked together perfectly. It felt like we were on the sea, with norwegian heroines. Swishing slowly about, their heels never falter, their gaze exact, the path has been set and the grey skies are dappled with stars, as the storm takes hold. These strong warriors will take us with their capes flowing behind them, their hair dancing in the wind.

Jena.Theo Valkyrie by Matilde Sazio Jena.Theo LFW A/W 2011, Illustration by Matilde Sazio

My favourite piece was one with an almost bustling at the back, flowing down to the ground, in one swipe. The front was a mini, the back was the drama, the fantasy. I would love to wear this one standing at the front of a ship. Not a ferry, a ship. Jena.Theo designs were indeed simple, but they are deserving of their sparkling lights.

Les Chiffoniers by Abby Wright

Slinky t-shirts, viagra order seriously sprayed on leggings and rocky accessories have defined Les Chiffoniers for the last four years. With a winning formula, sildenafil they like to stick to a very tight remit when it comes to their designs and style. Famed for their perfect fit leather leggings, they exploded into fashion consciousness when icon Kate Moss was snapped stumbling round Glastonbury in a shiny PVC pair. Their SS11 collection features the classic black version with double air zippers in PVC and matte, as well as new stone washed suede versions which had a softer appeal. The label, owned by Leena Similu tend to produce a core collection of beautiful leggings, together with chiffon tops and dresses so expect more variations on this selection this season.

Holly Fulton by Avril Kelly

I have loved Holly Fulton’s designs for years and for me, she seems to get it right every time. This year, once again, she is part of the Newgen showcase for LFW. Her SS11 was an absolute triumph: a collection referencing decadent and luxury cruise lining days, it hinted at a myriad of exotic, far flung locations yet her signature geometric, stylised pattering was still key to the look. Over the last four collections she has produced, Fulton has referenced a vast range of inspirations: from Joan Collins to New York skyscrapers, she cleverly transforms each idea into a consistent, and wearable style. A recent collaboration with online retail giant Asos has cemented her status as one of Britain’s top young designers.

David Koma by Gareth Hopkins

I don’t even need to write that David Koma is one to watch. Since his debut, his status has risen so much so that celebrities including Lady Gaga and Rihanna are clamouring to get into his dresses. At the astonishingly young age of 24, he has already achieved the holy grail of young designer aspirations – a collaboration with Topshop, and was also awarded NEWGEN sponsorship last season. Koma’s style is bold, blocky and futuristic. Using interesting adornments such as bent or tubular pieces of metal and reflective pieces of Perspex, his body conscious designs are edgy and confident.

Last season we enjoyed his refined show of grown up and elegant pieces, but were surprised at the use of python skin in a number of the dresses – Amelia had the chance to ask him about it and you can read the interview here. It will be interesting to see which materials he uses for AW, watch this space (until Monday, that is!)

Eudon Choi by Karolina Burdon

Eudon Choi started his eponymous label 2 years ago after stints at Twenty8Twelve and All Saints. With clothes that reflect these experiences, his pieces are utilitarian in character, featuring masculine detailing and reworked vintage garments. Last year he received both the VFS Merit Award and the BFC/Elle Talent Pad. His collection will show on Friday, the first day of LFW; read our review of his SS11 collection here.

One of our faves, knit fanatic Craig Lawrence will be showing his new collection in the Portico rooms this February, the same as last season – read Matt’s review of his SS11 collection here.

Craig Lawrence by Rukmunal Hakim

Simplistic and assured, Lawrence is a pro when it comes to seeking out and appropriately using the best wool yarns (my sister is a textile designer and I know how hard this actually is). The movement within the pieces sets him apart as having an in-depth knowledge of the materials he’s working with and the ability to use them in an ethically minded way. We Like. A Lot.

MariaFrancescaPepe by Sandra Contreras

‘The underworld, amulets and Salvador Dali’ provide inspiration for MariaFrancescaPepe’s new collection. Pioneering the concept that jewellery should be the focal point of an outfit, Jewellery-Wear is her brainchild and has produced the iconic MFP tubular – a signature necklace which appears in every collection in different variations.

Christopher Raeburn by Gemma Smith

Christopher Raeburn’s designs differed from the majority of SS11’s collections, gone were floaty dresses in florals and pastel, and not a chino in sight. Instead he produced a number of festival-worthy parkers and jackets made from old parachutes and featuring cute dotty patterns. The effect was visually impressive as the lightweight material was slightly transparent so all the seams and joins were exposed. As an exciting and inventive designer, I am looking forward to see how he uses these qualities to create a warmer, AW collection.

Written by Florence Massey on Saturday February 19th, 2011 7:10 pm

Categories ,AW11, ,Christopher Raeburn, ,Craig Lawrence, ,David Koma, ,Eudon Choi, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Holly Fulton, ,Les Chiffoniers, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,MariaFrancescaPepe

Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Collections: Men A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

KTZ A/W 2014 by Sine Skau

Only if resident LC:M hunk David Gandy has been wheeled in will you find a tedious tailored three-piece suit at a KTZ show – and that’s exactly why I bloody love going.

KTZ A/W 2014 by Mitika Suri

All photography by Matt Bramford

The usual onslaught of chaos occurred outside, but I knew that once inside, it would be relatively empty. In the basement of Victoria House, I was right – rows of empty seats were frantically being filled as I picked a good standing vantage point from which to view this season’s bizarre brilliance.

A KTZ menswear show tends to feel comfortingly familiar, yet entirely different. The ambiguous, evocative symbols that mix Sanskrit with religious symbols with godknowswhat adorned most garments, black and white dominated this collection and the silhouettes were as dramatic as ever. So what do you do to mix things up a bit? Paint the bloody models ice white, of course. This is definitely not a show to appeal to the Harris Tweed brigade.

Pieces seemed to be bigger than ever this season. XXL hoods draped over models past the knee; furs, scarves and thick fabrics enveloped models’ faces and necks; a sort of Arctic exploration on LSD. I was dazzled by caps with metal embellishments, metal headpieces that crept down foreheads, jewels attached to sweatshirts that had been arranged in a precise, mathematical fashion, and skintight jumpsuits that were so low cut that they revealed navels.

KTZ A/W 2014 by Sine Skau

The tribal, cultish vibe remained at this collection’s core, its mix of graphic emblems and experiments with fabric keeping every audience member’s attention all the way through over forty looks. I won’t even attempt to define it, categorise it, or discuss it in terms of how wearable, sellable or functional it is. That would be a mistake. It’s better to sit (or stand) back, revel in the showmanship of it all, then stock up on Snazaroo face paint when you get home.

Written by Matt Bramford on Thursday January 30th, 2014 6:08 pm

Categories ,Artic, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,KTZ, ,LCM, ,LCMAW2014, ,london, ,London Collections Men, ,Marjan Pejoski, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,review, ,Sanskrit, ,Sine Skau, ,sportswear, ,Victoria House

Amelia’s Magazine | #LCFBA15: London College of Fashion BA Hons 2015 Catwalk Review

FanniVargiLCFBA2015
LCF BA(hons) Fashion Design Technology Womenswear by Fanni Varga.

London College of Fashion took over Shoreditch this week to present their graduating collections for 2015. The former Nicholls and Clarke Building has been commandeered (until tomorrow) and for the first time all graduates from LCF are showcasing their work together.

Monday night saw the top twenty graduating fashion design students present their work at a lavish catwalk show. I only know it was lavish because I saw it being streamed at the George & Dragon boozer an hour or so later; I couldn’t get in the actual venue because it was massively oversubscribed. Amelia, toting visible pregnant belly, managed to score a seat inside, but I settled for a prime spot just outside the entrance and photographed the models as they emerged in groups from a purpose built marquee. It had all the glamour of a school sports day, but you can’t beat early evening summer light for pictures and there was much less of a scrum.

As per usual, the standard was exceptionally high, but I’ve picked a few of my favourites:

Natalie Ballout
Natalie Ballout opened the show with an army of peace sign-touting models. Netting, knitwear and rope made up these complex creations with punk influences.
MattBramford_LCFBA15_June2015_001

All photography by Matt Bramford

Oilam (Louisa) Pang
Oilam (Louisa) Pang was first up representing menswear. Traditional tailoring was mixed with sportwear influences in a polished collection that wouldn’t look out of place at this weekend’s upcoming London Collections: Men showcase.
MattBramford_LCFBA15_June2015_008

Chunyin Marc Mok
Chunyin’s sculptural pieces looked 2D with paper-like fabrics constructed in intriuging, non-conformist shapes, but it will be his futuristic foam footwear that his graduating collection will be remembered for:
MattBramford_LCFBA15_June2015_021

Isobel R. Cook, Giverney Volrath and Jay Biscarra
Isobel R. Cook and Jay Biscarra’s collections were shown together, I assume, because they were strikingly similar in inspiration and reference. With hints of tribal designs and an exotic jungle palette, both men and women wore laser cut armour-like creations and thick wool coats. Giverney Volrath produced the striking laser-cut embellishments.
MattBramford_LCFBA15_June2015_055

Fanni Varga
Distressed fabrics and obscure seams in unusual places made Fanni Varga’s collection ethereal and futuristic – a theme that ran through many of the graduate’s work.
MattBramford_LCFBA15_June2015_064

Jinwoong Bang
One of my favourite menswear collection’s was by Jinwoong Bang. White in colour with lots of sportswear influences, the collection was incredibly slick. Burst of orange, including sports stripes and cropped jackets, made the collection cohesive.
MattBramford_LCFBA15_June2015_076

Kenji Lau
Kenji Lau continued the warrior and protest theme initiated by Natalie Ballout’s show opener. Models with Middle Eastern headwear covering eyes carried enormous flags, with textiles by Angela Domale. Garments were heavy, covering the models’ bodies, and featured unfinished edges and many tassles.
MattBramford_LCFBA15_June2015_085

Marianne Tse-Laurence
Marianne Tse-Laurence’s menswear was in stark contrast to the aforementioned collections for gents. Arctic explorer types wore furs and thick overcoats in cold winter colours, teamed with long frayed skirts.
MattBramford_LCFBA15_June2015_097

Geneviève Pinette and Lisaveta Haponenka
A welcome relief from the dark, heavier collections – Geneviève Pinette’s future disco attire was a firm favourite. Vibrantly coloured dresses had rigid inserts that toyed with the models’ silhouettes; dark tights had haphazard attachments and metallic strips with textiles by Lisaveta Haponenka.
MattBramford_LCFBA15_June2015_107

Dan He
The penultimate collection in the show, Dan He’s was a real stand-out. Exaggerated silhouettes, including bell-shaped skirts, oversized circular jackets and wide-legged trousers, all appeared in the same cream/peach tone. Jordan Byron Britton’s millinery topped off the collection perfectly.
MattBramford_LCFBA15_June2015_129

Catherine Wang and Camila Lopes
Closing the show, Catherine Wang presented striking hand-painted (I think) dresses in various shapes. Shoestring straps held them up as they draped down models and tied the dresses in different places, creating dreamy, swirling shapes with textiles by Camila Lopes.
MattBramford_LCFBA15_June2015_149

The exhibition runs until tomorrow – more details here.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday June 12th, 2015 11:14 am

Categories ,Blossom Street, ,Catherine Wang, ,catwalk, ,Chunyin Marc Mok, ,Dan He, ,Fanni Varga, ,fashion, ,Geneviève Pinette, ,graduate, ,Isobel R. Cook, ,Jay Biscarra, ,Jinwoong Bang, ,knitwear, ,LCFBA15, ,london, ,London College of Fashion, ,Maria Giannakopoulou, ,Marianne Tse-Laurence, ,menswear, ,Natalie Ballout, ,Oilam (Louisa) Pang, ,review, ,shoreditch, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Jeremy Scott S/S2010: YABBA-DABBA-DOO!

Man hunt. Man kill. Man make fire. Man make… mankinis?

Well Jeremy Scott does at any rate. The pounding drums that blared out of the speakers at Scott’s S/S10 show at Somerset House got me some pounding blood in my ears– so epic, mind so primal, so dramatic, I marvelled! Then as the first model turned the corner, these epic and primal drums transpired to be the introduction to the Flintstones soundtrack.

Thanks to crimped, streaked and backbrushed wigs painted with cartoon bones and eyes smeared with red paint, Pixie Geldof and Daisy Lowe’s celebrity mugs were barely visible under the guise of the punk cavewoman. While Christopher Kane yesterday cut his hemlines below the knee, this was yet another collection that was all about the legs, with teeny tiny minidresses, bustier dresses, swimsuits and hotpants all on show. Pairing cave prints with an acid rainbow colour palette of neon greens, oranges and yellows, the hems were cartoonishly jagged, with the brilliant shoes decorated with tiny dinosaur bones instead of bows – a motif that extended to brooches that held together printed sarongs and shrugs.

So let’s talk prehistoric fashion: the idea of roughly pinning together a cut of fabric was OBVIOUSLY pioneered by those fashion-savvy Neanderthals who donned the latest mammoth/gazelle/other prehistoric mammal skin (delete as applicable) in order to keep toasty in those chilly caves. Westwood was doing the same last season with big rough cuts of fabric and safety pins last season. DIY fashion is never going to go away!

Seeing some menswear on show for the first time was also a treat, although the male model who had the misfortune to be wearing a pair of miniature printed speedos bolted so fast off the catwalk that you practically could have blinked and missed him (the chap in the one-shoulder mankini fared a little better).

A particularly fabulous piece was the pink bone-speckled biker jacket, and following look incorporated a t-shirt emblazoned with the words ‘Your Cave or Mine?’ accompanied by a green and black hooded shirt.

However Darwin was at work even on the catwalk, as the designs evolved before our very eyes, with the hem and necklines evening out to reveal some finely cut cartoon leopard print leggings. And finally, the triumph of the chic, streamlined little party dress.

A typically zany and enjoyable collection from Mr Scott – who normally shows in Paris, hence my insane and irrational fervour upon hearing that I would be seeing him in little old London. The only thing about leaving a Jeremy Scott show, it would seem, is looking down at your own outfit and feeling like the drabbest thing in existence. If you’re not an acid bright caveman next season, life is hardly worth living, is it? Nope.

Written by Jonno Ovans on Wednesday September 23rd, 2009 11:23 am

Categories ,Flintstones, ,Jeremy Scott, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Man, ,Mankini’s, ,Pixie, ,Somerset House, ,Vivienne Westwood

Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion MA graduate collections

Monday 26th January

Lucky Dragons, health store Luminaire, viagra London

Pretentious blurb going on about birthing fragile networks of digital signals or whatever but don’t be put off as it should be an interesting night of experimental folktronica.

Zombie Zombie, Ruby Lounge, Manchester

French electro with a cool Germanic edge.

Michael Baker, Ida Brown, John Barrow, Slaughtered Lamb, London

Folk rock from Michael Baker with more acoustic sounds in support at this lovely, folk-oriented venue.

Tuesday 27th January

Grace Jones, Roundhouse, London

Will be nothing less than extraordinary show from this wildly experimental but still accessibly pop singer. Her new album is spectacular as we have raved on previous occasions and she is completely fantastic live.

Let’s Wrestle, Screaming Tea Party, Hoxton Square Bar and Kitchen, London

Fun party indie boys headline with cute bubblegum punk support from Screaming Tea Party.

Luke Haines, FreeDM studio at Roundhouse, London

He of the Auteurs and Black Box Recorder and self-proclaimed Britpop instigator plays his highly regarded solo material.

Wednesday 28th January

Crystal Antlers, Darker My Lover, Loverman, Ark People, Lexington, London

I will save my thesis on the fact that every single hip new band seems to be called Crystal something at the moment for another time. Instead catch the Antlers’ Long Beach raw punk on their first European tour. Sweaty, bruising fun.

Six Toes, The Mariner’s Children, Share, Slaughtered Lamb, London

Delicate and pretty, the exact antithesis of the Lexington gig. A Wednesday night of contrasts.

Thursday 29th January

George Pringle, Applicants, 4 or 5 Magicians, Buffalo Bar London

Spoken word to a stark electro backing track from George Pringle. Dead arty.

Glissando, City Screen, York

Gliding atmospheric sounds, perfectly suited to the cinema venue.

Friday 30th January

Afrikan Boy, The Real Heat, Barden’s Boudoir, London

Signed to M.I.A.’s label, probably best known for his hilarious masterpiece about shoplifting bargain supermarkets.

Luminous Frenzy, Shunt Vaults, London

Where better than an underground dungeon club to see this haunting cinematic live show? Nowhere better.

Saturday 31st January

Stereo Total, Bar Rumba, London

Like a Franco-German White Stripes (girl singer/drummer, boy guitarist) only about a million times more appealing and with a sense of humour. And nothing in common musically. Playing electro-punk reworkings of French chanson and ye-ye as well as their own charming and wittily insouciant numbers in French, German, English and any other languages they happen to have picked up.

Mike Bones, Oakford Social, Reading

Session guitarist supreme, turned solo singer-songwriter with interestingly lovelorn songs and none of the whingeing usually associated with that damning tag.

Micachu and the Shapes, Macbeth, London

On nearly everyone’s list of ones to watch 2009 (and of course, featured in Issue 10), catch Micachu’s angular and unpredictable show in a small venue while you still can.

Sky Larkin, Brudenell Social Club, Leeds

Homecoming gig for this local band whose sweet and clever indie rock is slightly off-kilter lending shades of Sonic Youth to their jangly guitars.

Sunday 1st February

Emmy the Great, Phoenix, Exeter

Promoting her debut album despite having been touring material for the past four years, with deceptively sweet-sounding tunes and scarily frank lyrics.

Last week, more about the London College of Fashion held it’s MA show in the beautiful Raphael gallery at the V&A. It’s very fitting that it took place during menswear fashion week, as twelve out of the nineteen collections were clothes for the boys.

It seems that menswear is finally standing up to its competitive and often overpowering opposite. Usually, the occasional dose of menswear in graduate collections – lets face it – never usually quite stands up to its womenswear rivals, this time round however, it was a different story. If the MA graduates set out to change the preconceptions of us voyeurs of fashion, who put the words ‘fashion’ and ‘womenswear’ hand in hand, they did a very good job with these collections.

Nowhere near boring – menswear and gave us gold, sequins, fringing and innovative tailoring fitted to a selection of 80′s looking, nu-romantic boys; flopping curls and eyeliner in check. Not to confuse these looks as steals from womenswear, masculinity was still very much in tact.

Here is a selection of the ones that caught our eye:

Dimitri Stavrou (below left) presented a very masculine interpretation of fringing through a skilled process of hand-frayed carbon fiber. The collection was inspired by the incest breeding of a Greek mythological God and mortal woman, a part human, part-animal crossover was explored through historical body armour and shapes created through movement.

Ji Yun Lapthorn’s ( below right)sophisticated and beautiful display of drapery and tailoring was a delicate and mesmerising affair. Soft folds created new shapes from heavy silk crepe, and cashmere showed a mature sensitivity to both form and fabric.

A futuristic rainbow of colour shone through with Rohan Kale’s (above) collection, where luxury and sustainability met in a beautiful patchwork of Spanish silk tie off-cuts. Entitled ‘The Two Christians’ his admiration for both Christian Dior and Christian Lacroix was explored in this rich, exuberant take on sharp, quality tailoring.

Sticking to a theme of bright colour, Carly Garwin (below) used neon pink as a metaphor for happiness in her Parisian inspired collection. Proportions were played with and innovative cutting gave a sophisticated feel to this collection, where leg baring tailored shorts matched with cropped capes for a refreshing male silhouette.

Miyhun Park (above) took us on a mystical journey under the sea, where fluidity merged with structure. Sheer dresses fitted to wire frames mimicked jellyfish like shapes, whilst creating a blurred and distorted vision of the underlying garments to leave an impression of being underwater.

In a fitting and fair finale the battle between men’s and womenswear ended in a beautiful mixed collection from graduate Manjit Deu, (above) who won the Collection of the Year. Using the ever-popular sequin- in its new and more abstract rectangular shape – Manjit hand-embroidered dresses, hoodies and tops for a truly lavish and dazzling end to the show.

Written by Tilly Pearman on Tuesday January 27th, 2009 12:06 pm

Categories ,80’s, ,Catwalk, ,London, ,London College of Fashion, ,Menswear, ,Student

Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: Northampton

It may have been the first ever International Show at Graduate Fashion Week, erectile but the designers did all they could to leave a lasting impression on London; collections came courtesy of universities spanning Europe with one show from students as far as Singapore.

The show launched with a strong start with Wolfgang Jarnach from the Akademie Mode & Design in Munich, ambulance his dark collection was made up of voluminous skirts and shoulders teamed with striking tailored jackets, cost topped off with a dramatic Count Dracula style cape.

In an equally theatrical fashion came Vicole Lang’s collection, which racked up the most air miles for GFW, coming in from the Lasalle College of the Arts in Singapore. The show kicked off with a distinctly fetishism theme opening with a PVC bandage body suit, but seemed to become more gradually demure with each outfit, until the stunning Balenciaga-esque spiked and padded dress closed her a collection in show-stopping fashion.

After Vicole’s electrifying garments, a much needed cool off came courtesy of Lidya Chrisfen’s collection which swished down the runway to the calming sounds of an ebbing tide. The neutral palette, twisted rope detailing and seashell embellishments brought to mind shipwrecks and desert islands, whilst the daringly cut, printed maxi dresses injected a touch of red-carpet glamour to the collection.

Wearability was an apparently unimportant factor for a number of the international designers, as spectators at Earl’s Court witnessed recurring ‘head coverings’ as opposed to headwear from several collections. This theme was kicked off by Linda, hailing from Singapore’s LaSalle College of the Arts, who sent a seemingly ‘blind’ model down the runway in a denim hooded thigh-skimming mini dress, which zipped up balaclava style to the top of her head.

Linda, illustrated by Lisa Billvik

The concept continued in Anna Sergnova’s collection, whose medieval-inspired garments were dreamt up in the halls of Saint Petersburg’s State University of Technology & Design. Four of her six garments completely covered the model’s faces with knight style armour, metal visors and chain-mail helmets, teamed with gauntlets and protective Balmain style padded hips and shoulders. Unfortunately the safety of the models was somewhat blighted by the towering heel-less wedges in which they were precariously balancing on as they walked the runway.

Anna Sergunova, illustrated by Aniela Murphy

Things only got stranger when Amsterdam Fashion Institute student, Floor Kolen’s creations took to the stage, she too showed a penchant for covering the eyes, this time through the medium of masks, rather scary looking plastic bird masks to be precise. She also took the acrylic route for a selection of her garments and accessories including a moulded bust style T-shirt, plastic feet shoes and demi-gloves which only covered the front part of the hand, but would nethertheless render the wearer helpless.

It is often the English that are often regarded as the most eccentric people in the world; but maybe it is time to rethink this stereotype, because actually stranger things can and certainly do happen – just ask the international designers at GFW.

Images courtesy of catwalking.com

Garry Butterfield, viagra photographed by Matt Bramford

We are almost at the end of Graduate Fashion Week for another year, viagra but there’s still plenty of talent left to see.

After hearing that one of the Northampton students, see Garry James Butterfield, had been snapped for Vogue by no other than Rankin I was intrigued to see how the show would pan out.

And it was a right old mix between the neutral pallets and technical draping (grey and navy was everywhere this year) and the ever so slightly eccentric. Perfect!

Hayley Powell: Powell erred on the neutral side sticking to a delicious mix of chocolates, khaki and creamy silks. Even more enticing was the oversized proportions of the high waisted trousers shown with a tucked in top and tied up with a battered leather belt. Definitely a contender to take Chloé’s throne and a winner in my eyes, if only for featuring a beautiful pair of printed culottes.

Hayley Powell, illustrated by Abi Daker

Lauren Dewer: Now the first look in this grouping didn’t have such an appeal but as the models waltzed out the bigger picture became clear. Using piping detail to create frills on skirts and structure on dresses, Dewer pulled off the bumblebee pallet and brought each individual piece together. To top it off, models sported yellow socks over their black tights, still a big look for autumn following on from London Fashion Week in February.

James Cottle: This was the first menswear collection I’ve seen in a while designed by a man. I digress. Cottle pulls together a simplistic uniform of peg leg trousers worn rolled up with romantically bibbed shirts and easy grey marl tops. Finished off with desert boots, the look was so laid back and perfect, the only thing I want to know is what did the badges on the jackets say? A mystery.

Eleanor Burton: A flashback to Dynasty and Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” video aren’t uncommon musings to conjure when watching Burton’s pieces stomp down the catwalk. It was red. It was Black. It was all about shoulders and bodysuits. Simple, yes; but totally wearable all the same. And it shows you don’t need the glitz and glamour to make a statement in fashion.

Eleanor Burton, illustrated by Krister Sellin

Amy Robinson: Nirvana. One simple word that pretty much sums up Robinson’s nod to the 90s. It was grungy lace intertwined with silky vest tops and….cycling shorts? Ok so maybe that’s a piece best left on the catwalk but I’m ready to get me a pair of net curtains and start sewing… (Sorry Gran)!

Amy Robinson, illustrated by Naomi Law

What was nice about the Northampton shows was that they had clearly planned the manoeuvres down to a T. Each designers end pose related to the theme and their collection, and the hair was swept cleanly on top of the head and finished intertwined with ribbon. Beautiful show, well done guys.

Images courtesy of catwalking.com

Written by Jemma Crow on Thursday June 10th, 2010 10:44 am

Categories ,1980s, ,1990s, ,Addicted to Love, ,Amy Robinson, ,Chloe, ,Dynasty, ,Earls Court, ,Eleanor Burton, ,Garry James Butterfield, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,Hayley Powell, ,James Cottle, ,Lauren Dewer, ,london, ,menswear, ,nirvana, ,Rankin, ,Robert Palmer, ,vogue, ,Womenswear

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