Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Clements Ribeiro


Illustration by Avril Kelly

Finally escaping the intermittent drizzle, pilule I find myself standing in a beautiful hall within the restored Northumberland House in Trafalgar Square. The ornate ceiling is touching the sky and the splendour of its Victorian past hushes the crowd. The audience here appears slightly subdued. Notepads out, here pens uncapped and eyes focused on the catwalk. Tiptoeing at the back, viagra 40mg I strain to view the runway. I’m anticipating what Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro will bring to the catwalk to tease our fashion palettes. Spotlights alight causing the last of the whispers to subside and all gaze expectantly at the white path ahead, as the soundtrack strikes.

Enter structured jackets embellished with heraldic embroidery and printed silk skirts, jumpsuits and dresses in autumn colours, burnt orange and berry red. The prints vary, from pretty paisleys to luxurious leopard print. I’m not usually attracted to animal print, but I’m longing for the paisley meets leopard print dress, sporting blue silk detail on the neck and shoulders. It’s simple and elegant but not at all banal. High necks, low cinched waists and midi length skirts in vivid blue and red make for graceful dresses that suggest a marriage of Victoriana and 1970s styles. Bold and neutral colours follow, sheathed in dazzling gems that revive nostalgia for the 1950s.


Live catwalk illustration by Jenny Robins

The colours fade into cloudy greys, biscuit beiges and ice blues for the inconspicuous in you and luxurious brocades make up beautiful jackets, not unlike those gentlemen’s smoking jackets of a bygone vintage era. The catwalk darkens and we’re engulfed in black. Black lace, black wool, black silk – all combine to forge pretty, yet formal, dresses and blouses. I’m rarely taken in by designs in black, but these really are lovely. The vintage inspired shoes and patterned tights play a key part in the presentation, complimenting a largely conservative but beautiful collection.

My height has failed me and my photographs are painfully poor, but I leave contented and pleased to have spied a wonderful show.

All photography by Akeela Bhattay

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Avril Kelly, ,Catwalk review, ,Classic, ,Clements Ribeiro, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Formal, ,Inacio Ribeiro, ,Jenny Robins, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Northumberland House, ,Suzanne Clements, ,The Show Space, ,Upcycling, ,vintage

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Amelia’s Magazine | Let’s say No to Mass Production

Do you have a band that soundtrack your life? The music of your memories?
Mine was, cure treatment is and always will be The National, a band who’ve been playing in the background of my first loves, lost loves, sad times, happy times, party times, sleep times, journeys on planes, journeys on trains, moving in-s and moving out-s.

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Last night, after almost 5 years of unadulterated adoration and no less than 3 missed opportunities to see them , I finally saw The National, and it was knee-knockingly, breathtakingly amazing.
So amazing in fact, I broke a few of my cardinal “What Not To Do At Gigs” Rules. Nominally, these are:
1. Thou shall not sing along (aloud or mouthing along silently; they’re both as bad as each other)
2. Thou shall not join in group clapping (I’m not really a crowd participation kind of girl)
3. Thou shall not sway with your eyes closed (it looks creepy)

Having left the Royal Festival Hall in between lamenting the loss of my gig misanthropy and watching A Skin, A Night in bed (I really like The National- if you hadn’t noticed by this point) I began to ponder how to write about a band you’ve loved for such a long time, so here it goes.

(A Skin, A Night trailer)

Playing songs from their last two albums (Alligator and Boxer) and an EP (Cherry Tree), as well as covering new songs like the excellent ‘Runaway’, I noticed that one of the most striking thing about The National was their ability to depart from their records, which are, even at their most upbeat are still darkly contemplative and reflective, live however their energy is palpable, their most melancholic songs live are shot through with electricity and flourish. The National are a lot more prolific than the 2007 ‘overnight’ success of Boxer would suggest, and their familiarity with their extensive back catalogue allows them to embellish upon their records, making the live show full of exciting little twists and turns.

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Somewhere amidst these sonic twists and turns, I recognised The National’s ability to change the mood of not only what they were playing but also the mood of a packed out auditorium of people. Their music soars and swoops, murmurs with melancholy, heard in both Berringer’s voice and Newsome’s string solos, before crescendo-ing into a clattering wave of emotional intensity on the drums, guitars and brass. ‘Fake Empire’ ; Boxer’s opener starts with a simple, lilting piano melody and builds up to a full orchestral smorgasbord and was definitely a stand out favourite for me alongside ‘About Today’ from the aforementioned Cherry Tree EP whilst faster songs including ‘Mistaken for Strangers’ and ‘All the Wine’ pulsated with a dark emotion. The National are undoubtedly a honed and well oiled team from the drums and brass section to Padma Newsome’s dexterity on the piano and strings and it is this that enabled them to take such hairpin turns throughout their hour and a half long set, whilst retaining the interest of a legion of loyal fans, which is no mean feat.

And what of Mr. Berringer as a front man? I always had a rather specific image of him as a shy and brooding wordsmith, yet he commanded the attention of the crowd with his vocal range; from his trademark seductive baritone murmuring (‘Green Gloves’), to top-of-lungs anguished shouting (‘Abel’).

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The National create a totally unique soundscape, both live and on record, a soundscape filled with towering skyscrapers and empty parties, of drunk men in dead end jobs and the women they once loved leaving them. Ok, so it ‘s clearly not the Disneyworld of soundscapes but there is a real honesty and sad beauty to the images they create that inspire empathy and awe (both lyrically and melodically) in the stoniest of hearts.

So now as one of the converted to eyes closed, body swaying dancing at gigs, I unabashedly say that The National didn’t let me down live and I will continue to soundtrack a new lot of adventures with their music. Make them yours!

(Video for ‘Apartment Story’)

Monday 10th August

UN Climate Change Talks

The U.N. Climate Change Talks in Bonn, try Germany begin a series of informal intersessional consultations today. These are part of the run-up to Copenhagen in December, page and this particular series can be found webcast live here

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Illustration by Sergio Membrillas

Tuesday 11th August

The Yes Men

The Yes Men film shows the hoaxes perpetrated by two US political pranksters. The promotion team describe the film as “so stupidly entertaining” that it will reach and motivate thousands of people, page thus “adding even more juice into a movement that is trying to save civilization itself, among other modest goals.

Tuesday is the satellite event – live from Sheffield, it’s a simulcast event screening of THE YES MEN FIX THE WORLD and live q&a with the Yes Men beamed via satellites from Sheffield Showroom. Cinema-goers will have the opportunity to put their questions live and direct to the film’s stars from their respective cinema locations.

20.30, at the following London cinemas:
Odeon Panton Street, Clapham Picture House, The Gate Notting Hill, Greenwich Cinema, Ritzy Brixton, Screen-on-the-Green
More cinemas on the screenings page of their website.

Wednesday 12th August

Green Spaces & Sticky Feet

A creative exploration of the nature beneath our feet as we roam around the gardens – to help us understand why green spaces are important and how we can make our buildings greener. This is a workshop for children of all ages, who must be accompanied at all times by an adult.

2.30-4.30pm
St John-at-Hackney Churchyard Gardens

Contact – The Building Exploratory – 020 7729 2011 – mail@buildingexploratory.org.uk
www.buildingexploratory.org.uk

VESTAS : National Day of Action

On Friday the 7th August the bailiffs went in and the occupation of the Vestas wind turbine plant on the Isle of Wight ended.

In response to this a National Day of Action in support of the Vestas workers and to keep the factory open, for Green Jobs and a Green Energy Revolution, was declared. There will be actions all around the country organised by a diverse range of groups.

Or contact your local CCC group, or Union – or if you want to organise something in your area there is some advice from Jonathan Neale, of the CCC Trade Union group

The campaign to Save Vestas has not finished, it has just started and with it comes a campaign for a step change in the creation of Green Jobs and the Green Energy Revolution !

6.30pm
Outside the Department of Energy and Climate Change (DECC)

Contact – info@campaigncc.org – savevestas.wordpress.com

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Illustration by Jeffrey Bowman

Thursday 13th August

Journey Deep Into the Heart of Remembrance

A spiritual celebration and experience, honouring our regal beauty with sacred song and dance. Dances of universal peace, Taize singing, Bhajans & Kirtan, native American sweat lodge, Zikr & Sufi practice, Breton dancing, Tibetan sound meditation, yoga, tribal dance, ancient ways of the British Isles, chant wave and more…

You can find more details www.hounslow.info

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Illustration by Faye Katirai

Saturday 15th August

Fly by Night at Totteridge Fields Nature Reserve

Let the London Wildlife Trust take you out trapping, identifying and recording moths on the Totteridge Fields Nature Reserve. Come and see how many species of moths visit the fields at night. Please wear warm clothes and sensible footwear. Bring a Torch, Notebook and pen. You may also want to bring a flask.

Free car parking in sports ground car park adjacent to the Hendon Wood Lane entrance.
Nearest tube is Totteridge & Whetstone
251 bus stops on Totteridge Common near the junction with Hendon Wood Lane.

8.30-10.30pm
Hendon wood Lane entrance to totteridge Fields Nature Reserve
Contact – Clive Cohen – 07973 825 165 – notinbooks.conservation@btinternet.com

Monday 10th August
The National at Southbank Centre, ailment London

The National are one of my favourite all time bands. Their music full of deep seductive murmuring and soaring strings, cure The National build a beautiful soundscape full of urban discontent and lost loves.

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Tuesday 11th August
Devotchka at Cargo, London

I wouldn’t blame you for thinking that Devotchka have wandered straight out an Eastern European shtetl with their romani/ klezmer-tastic music. In fact they’re from Colorado and you probably recognise their orchestral treats from Everything is Illuminated and Little Miss Sunshine.

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Wednesday 12th August
Woodpigeon at Borderline, London

Woodpigeon is whispery folk with beautiful strings and brass. Perfect for a summer evening.

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Thursday 13th August
Circulus at The Lexington, London

Tired of the ins and outs of modern life? Do you want to return to a simpler time? A medieval time? Go see Circulus then! They’re quite obviously as mad as a bag of prog listening cats but they sing about fairies and have lutes- what couldn’t be awesome about that?

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Friday 14th August
Forest Fire and Broadcast 2000 at The Luminaire, London

Lovely country folk from Brooklyn’s Forest Fire and tinkly electronica from Broadcast 2000 are set to make this night special!

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Saturday 15th August
Spaghetti Anywhere and Colours at Barfly, London

Here at Amelia’s HQ we often find ourselves listening to Spaghetti Anywhere‘s myspace selection of pretty indie pop, and it never fails to brighten up a dreary office day.
Also playing are Colours the South Coast’s answer to My Bloody Valentine, offering up a delicious slice of Shoegaze with Pavement-y undertones. Brilliant stuff all round!

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the depths of 180 The Strand, sildenafil where this year’s On|Off catwalk be, Bernard Chandran is about to present his S/S2010 collection. I’m excited.

I saw Chandran’s A/W collection back in February. It was incredible, and I was concerned that this season’s couldn’t live up. I need not have worried.

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Yet another diverse and inspired collection, the first model appeared wearing a silk muzzle with a graphic pattern. These unusual face decorations featured prominently in the show. Printed, bejewelled, moulded from the shape of the face – it was clear they were making a statement. “It’s my reaction to climate change,” Bernard told me afterwards. It’s a provoking image we’re accustomed to seeing – during the SARS crisis and more recently with the swine-flu pandemic. Chandran has translated this evocative image and created masks of beauty.

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Dresses were striking, bold statement pieces, in hues ranging from ochre to pewter. Folds and flaps created geometric silhouettes, showcasing Chandran’s skills as a craftsman, and revealing a possible Hussein Chalayan influence.

Other pieces consisted of simple shift dresses enveloped by folded, dynamically-cut fabric, creating exaggerated shoulders and wing-like forms, apposing the contours of the female form.

I loved this glittered interpretation of the bustier. Fashion-forward women only, need apply:

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Patterns on masks and clothing had been translated directly from objects that surround Bernard in his day-to-day life. A stunning linear print in amber and black had been taken directly from “a basket that people give [Bernard} flowers in!” Bernard recalled. Looking again at the print makes sense of it – it appears almost photographic.

Another key look was the Chinese coolie hat, worn by a handful of models. Bernard in interesting in their form. “I like the way they fold, the way they are created – which can be said for a lot of my work,” Bernard told me. “The way an envelope folds, for example – like here,” as he gestured to a photograph on the wall backstage of a structured, geometric dress.

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The more feminine consumer need not worry, as the show also included elegantly draped smock dresses and sumptuous blouson skirts, in chiffon, with organic, natural prints. These pieces were the most surprising considering his A/W 09/10 collection was so bold and striking. “Sometimes you just have to,” Bernard laughed.

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There were so many different looks in this collection. It may sound as if the pieces were too disparate but this was not the case, as one after the other complimented each other, almost magically. Take the structured dress with exaggerated hips, fast becoming Bernard’s signature, juxtaposed with the softer sheer fabric pieces draped effortlessly over the models; juxtaposed with the hooded smock reminiscent, again, of an envelope; the prints and tones of each piece somehow beautifully transforming into the next.

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Soul singer Estelle is a huge fan of Chandran’s work, shunning major fashion houses to wear his looks at awards ceremonies, so it was no surprise to see Destiny’s Child’s Michelle Williams and Beverley Knight wide-eyed on the front row. A Bernard Chandran woman is a glamorous, confident, ostentatious creature. It’s time this design hero took centre stage on-schedule. Sort it out, BFC!

All photographs and text by Matt Bramford
The 25th London Fashion Week began yesterday in its new haunt of Somerset House. Turning up to register, viagra there was the expected photo crush as numerous street style photographers selected those most fashionably dressed to stand before their lens. Not surprisingly London Fashion Week has been a lesson on how to be scarily on trend. Leather studded Jackets check. Harem pants in black and multiple prints. Check. Statement shoes check.check.check. Big Power Shoulders. Check. The most amazing outfit –outside the catwalk- was on the front row at Ashley Islam (more to come on this collection later). Sitting next to Michelle Williams from Destiny’s Child immaculat in Vivienne, sildenafil was a rather beautiful man with an Anna Wintour bob,
complete with a dress made from nails. This often disregarded material was transformed into the ultimate disco dress, that tinkled out of shows.

On|Off presents their off schedule designers at 180 the Strand. Down in the industrial stylebasement, the catwalk appeared from behind plastic sheets and the ever ready crowd of journalists, photographers and buyers took their seats to view collections from Prose Studio, Yang Du, Michela Carraro and Joanna Vaderpuije.

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The Prose Studio Collection of bold oil slick printed dresses was first down the catwalk. The feminine fluent dresses billowed around the models, falling down from the neck, along the arms and tacking tightly in at the waist to fall once more to the knees.

Remember blowing paint across water’s surface to create marbling patterns when pressed onto paper? Prose Studio’s harem pants felt as if the fabric had been dipped into the solution and hung out to dry. The drapes of the pants were delicately covered leaving the leg fabric bare.

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The collection finished with a free flowing printed white tunic over white marbled dripped leggings.

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Next up were Michela Carraro’s deconstructed geishas complete with rags tied into bondage shoes, big 80′s shoulders remain on the catwalk alongside constructed sheer blouses.

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The shapes and layering were reminiscent of John Galliano’s personal style and diffusion line with an injection of Vivienne Westwood’s pirate’s collection. As the light blue piece sashayed down the catwalk, it suddenly struck.

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What was being offered was a re-invention of a feminine suit, capable of expressing personality rather than smothering it underneath a shapeless blazer. This was a collection representing the intriguing daywear as represented with the gallantly bold, bordering on the garish printed trousers, under tucked beneath the swashbuckling floating blouses held together at the front with delicate stitching. Completed with the bandaged shoes, the piece formed an illustrious silhouette when framed by photographers.

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Third was Joanna Wanderpuije’s elegant collection of modern shapes complete with the return of the perspex stars from the A/W collection, for S/S the stars are attached to the hips of the cotton skirt. Plenty of well cut shorts and printed tanks for effortless lux.

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Leather bra tops – continuing previous seasons’ trends for underwear as outwear- hardened the collection appearing under a cropped print jacket nestling above the high-waisted cream trouser. A splash of colour was provided with the up-pleated tunic dress. The collection was incredible wearable with Wanderpuije’s prints elegant in their application and beautifully sculpted from material.

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Fashion provides the opportunity to dive into new worlds, peer into another’s imagination. It can function similarly to illustration and convey a sense of being in the world and by being idiosyncratic tap into the public consciousness. The last piece from Yang Du‘s collection was one distinctive outfit from the Louis Vitton-esque rabbit ears combined with bold blue and white striped constructed-to-be-slouchy oversized dress.

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The outfit instantly burned into the retina, this was something to wear as unemployment rates soar, it’s warm and it’s bright. This was fun fantastical fashion and I loved the oversized knitted bag that followed the models down the catwalk as if a rather petulant child.

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As with all three previous designers, at Yang Du it was all about the detailing; tunic dresses were altered with cut away bra holes overlaid with fringing. Grinning cartoon faces contrasted wide blue knitted stripes, tight tight dresses were sent down with bold geometric black and white prints. Not forgetting the head adornments.

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A great start to London Fashion Week, a mix of eccentricity and wearable shapes with most importantly the clothes bringing a smile to one’s face.

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For me, web the majority of fashion week involved being squished like a sardine in regimented rows watching models strut up and down a well lit runway. While this is all well and good, sometimes it’s fun to break from the norm…

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from what I can gauge, Nasir Mazhar is a headwear designer, with very theatrical taste.

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To view his presentation at London Fashion Week s/s10 we descended into the vaults of Somerset House, entering a strobe lit room, where at the end of the corridor a stunning and SEXY model posed around a pole in an almost fetichistic nude mask that covered her mouth and eyes……

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This was the opening taste of the world of Nasir Mazhar that is visceral, amusing, unique and downright hot. As I am predominately a photographer, I feel the images illustrate the experience better than anything I could write!

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All photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
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For me, visit web the majority of fashion week involved being squished like a sardine in regimented rows watching models strut up and down a well lit runway. While this is all well and good, sickness sometimes it’s fun to break from the norm…

nasirmazhar2

nasirmazhar

nm3

DSC_1462

from what I can gauge, information pills Nasir Mazhar is a headwear designer, with very theatrical taste.

nm2

To view his presentation at London Fashion Week s/s10 we descended into the vaults of Somerset House, entering a strobe lit room, where at the end of the corridor a stunning and SEXY model posed around a pole in an almost fetichistic nude mask that covered her mouth and eyes……

DSC_1438

This was the opening taste of the world of Nasir Mazhar that is visceral, amusing, unique and downright hot. As I am predominately a photographer, I feel the images illustrate the experience better than anything I could write!

DSC_1448

nasirmazhar4

All photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
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The Four Seasons Charity Show was in aid of Oxfam and the British Heart Foundation. The design brief consisted of buying charity shop clothes and styling or adapting them into something new and stylish. As a textiles student I embraced the customisation route: deconstructing, seek reconstructing, find decorating, this site sewing, pleating, ruffling and so on until I could unveil works which were truly mine.

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The collection made its way down the catwalk, and to my greatest delight, people enquired about buying the pieces. Encouraged by this I am incorporating a recyclable theme into my A2 textiles, which induced designer research. Focusing on using items considered as junk and turning them into fashionable and hopefully wearable pieces. Some of the designers I investigated include People Tree, Katharine E Hamnett’s slogan t-shirts, and Edun. All of their manifestos contain aspects of Fairtrade, organic resources, sustainability or tackling of other global issues.

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Katharine E Hamnett promotes her campaigns on the consumer’s organic cotton (manufactured under tight ethical standards) chest: Free Burma, World Peace to Save the Seas. Hamnett presents her political beliefs and encourages us to do the same.

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Edun focuses on creating sustainable employment in developing countries, specifically sub-Saharan Africa. Just from these two brands you can see the multiple schemes that have been put into place to begin tackling global issues – they just need more recognition.

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I first experienced the concept of eco-fashion – typically – as a younger sister, when presented with my older sister’s hand-me-downs. At the time, I was probably disappointed by the lack of brand new clothing, and yet now the wearing of second-hand has become more fashionable than ever. Take the explosion of vintage clothing and the increasing presence of designers who re-use old clothes to make new creations, such as the brand Junky Styling. In more recent years my interest in eco-fashion has expanded from an initially disgruntled youth to advocator of Ethical Sustainable Fashion.

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This passion for re-making and vintage stems from television shows such as Twiggy’s Frock Exchange, and local fashion workshops, which I help to run as part of The Cambridge Design Collective. The workshops provide tips such as: turning old dresses into handbags, or learning how to distress jeans. The amount of people who have become involved and the techniques I have subsequently learnt demonstrate that we do not need mass production. We just need to get together and be a little more creative!

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In Frock Exchange, Twiggy encouraged the mass consumers of the UK to stalk out previously owned garments and transform them into beautiful bespoke items. The moment which propelled me into a world of eco-friendly fashion arrived in the role of a floral, floor-length Laura Ashley dress. The item was altered into the most amazing mini dress before Britain’s eyes. Energised by the programme I began to participate in clothes swaps and search for the independent retailers of my local town who do not mass-produce.

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My research revealed sustainable resources, such as the amazing Emporium 61, a boutique charity shop, which stocks vintage and even sells top brands such as Miu Miu and Prada. The shop also sells redesigned second hand clothing under the label 50/50. Cambridge has a lot of charity shops, independent outlets and vintage clothing, and yet so few people seem to know about them – something I hope to change by helping to publicise these stores better.

The achievement you feel when an item is successfully given a new lease of life, or at knowing your small decision is one tiny step towards helping the world (whether it be anti-child labour, or increasing climate change awareness), is definitely motivation to decrease high street consumerism. The High Street may hope it doesn’t use slave labour, child labour, unsustainable resources and more – but can you really imagine anything less fuels this mass producer? And what happens to all the clothes that aren’t sold? Huge piles of waste clothing?

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Eco – Fashion requires effort and if we really want to combat climate change and abuse of worker’s rights isn’t it worth it? Especially when you discover a hidden gem such as locally stocked labels: Rutzou or Milly Moy.

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I believe eco-fashion can be fashionable: even London Fashion Week has its own eco-friendly selection in its Esthetica exhibition! Of course some charity shops may still bear the stereotypical musty image, but if you look closely enough and do a little transformation you’d be amazed. If you’re not a designer yourself try a clothes swap, or vintage shopping in the beautiful Brick Lane of London – a perfect excuse if ever I heard one.

Categories ,Brick Lane, ,Edun, ,esthetica, ,Ethical Fashion Forum, ,Katherine E Hamlett, ,London Fashion Week, ,Milly Moy, ,oxfam, ,People Tree, ,vintage

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Amelia’s Magazine | Frock Me

Recently discussing with a fellow fashion blogger the growing interest in the Scandinavian fashion world, information pills treatment she quipped that it was very easy for Scandinavians to be fashionable; after all, link each and every one of them seem to be all long legs and white blonde hair. Her remark seemed to suggest that perhaps the Scandinavians have no street style genius or imaginative flair when it comes to dressing. Indeed, sale the stereotype of beautiful dumb models hailing from the North of Europe is far from rare – but there’s something going on over there that’s worth a bit of investigating.

Taking just one look at street style websites Lookbook or the Face Hunter confronts us with the fresh new faces of Scandinavian fashion. The majority of the most ‘hyped’ looks on Lookbook come from sassy, fashionable (and often very young) North Europeans, hailing from Stockholm, Helsinki and beyond. Indeed, for a clear picture of Swedish success on Lookbook, just look at “Shelley M, 18 year old art student and blogger from Sweden,” with her knack of combining little girl cuteness (headbands and bows) with serious sex appeal (short black skirts and lace) topped off with crazy heels and splashes of kitsch accessories straight out of Tatty Devine.

And she’s not a lone phenomenon. Sporting brave and bold urban prints in vivid colours, these bright young things from Scandinavian meccas of style exude a perfect blend of 90s skate culture with CluelessCher Horowitz, with her high school polished, blonde doll-faced perfection. See Amelia’s Magazine’s recent articles on Daniel Palillo and CTRL for examples of this kind of styling, something that appears to be truly specific to the Scandinavians. The 90s, it seems, are the nostalgic wardrobe reference du jour here, embodying past positivity and youth in a pre-doom and gloom world of the new millennium.

Ever since the Swedish Institute’s exhibition – ‘Swedish Fashion: Exploring a New Identity’ – launched at London’s Fashion and Textile Museum this February, Scandinavian fashion has seen a markedly rising profile in the fashion world. Celebrating a new wave of Swedish design talent, the exhibition questioned the static view that fashion blooms only in the eponymous fashion capitals of Paris, London, New York and Milan. In fact, this collection instead raised the debate over whether globally, we neglect fashion from all four corners of the globe at the cost of fresher and more interesting approaches to design, simply because they have traditionally been ignored by the industry.

Ann-Sofie Back must be considered one of the most influential and successful of these designers, with her place at London Fashion Week and her capsule collection for Topshop, not to mention her collaboration with that uber-successful Swedish brand, Cheap Monday. As seen at her s/s 09 collection, Back is unafraid to incorporate social comment into her shows, holding celebrity obsession with plastic surgery up to ridicule with her bandaged and felt-tipped models.

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But then, there are also the clothes. Back’s most recent collection sported ripped and distressed pieces supposedly representing ‘Ann-Sofie Back goes to Hell’. Striking the balance can be near-impossible, yet she really knows how to shock whilst also providing wearable fashion pieces.

And Back’s not the only one causing a stir. Joining her from the recent exhibition for particular note are Sandra Backlund, Helena Horstedt and Martin Bergström, who showcased similarly effortless Scandinavian cool.

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If you saw our feature on Backlund’s knitwear in recent weeks, you’ll know that it is really something special; with oversize knotting and draping, with the designs exude wooly coziness whilst remaining edgy and thoroughly modern. Alongside Backlund stands Horstedt whose work focuses on intricacy of shape in order to create highly fascinating designs that swirl and envelope the body with draping and fringing detail, all in solid black.

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Indeed, for both designers, it seems that the human body is paramount to their designs, with Backlund quoted as saying the it is her chief inspiration. Finally we have Bergström, who once again predominantly centres on futuristic shapes enveloping the body with volume, but in a more vivid aquamarine colour palette.

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It seems then, that the Finns and the Swedes are well and truly indulging in some kind of sartorial breakthrough at the moment. Whatever it is that’s doing it, there is undoubtedly something linking these North European designers spurring them into a fashion frenzy. Hopefully, the fashion world will take notice, and we will be joining the likes of Shelley M in her fashion credentials all too soon.

What I find so fascinating, search bewildering and ultimately beautiful about Japan can all be found in Shu Okada, site and her stunning watercolour illustrations. Perfectly and carefully rendered, aesthetically desirable but with undertones of the dark and unspoken, her work is enchanting and haunting in equal measures. Okada is true to her Japanese roots though she now chooses to reside in the more artistically liberal city of New York from where she not only illustrates, but blogs, photographs and produces animation.

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One of the most important things I think for an artist to do is to take themselves out of their comfort zones and immerse their entire beings in different worlds, different cities, different cultures, and that is exactly what Okada has achieved and she’s still only in her early twenties. Her creative passion has taken her around the globe in search of inspiration; schooling in Switzerland, a spell at St Martins, some time at Parsons New School for Design, and already her work has been recognised and awarded by Bologna Book Fair, New Ink Cover Design and New York Times.

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We talked about Kimonos, moving around the world and where to find inspiration, our conversation follows below.

Hello, how are you today?

Good! August is my birth month, so I am very excited now.

What have you been doing recently?

I just finished my college life this summer, so now I have a lot of time to paint and draw anything I want.

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What materials or mediums do you like to work with best?

I like to experiment with different media such as watercolour, ink, and oil paint. Recently I’ve been using watercolour and colour pencil the most. I like how watercolour shows differently when it is wet and dry.

How is the New York art scene different from the Tokyo art scene? What made you decide to leave Japan?

New York is mix of many different cultures and nationalities. I feel that New York art has more variety than in Japan. Also, the attitude of illustrators is slightly different in New York. Before I came here, I thought illustration was about comics (manga) or animations for young kids. I decided to come to New York to see how other cultures see art.

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What inspires your work?

Knowledge is very important, not just for art, but also for living. So now I am trying to read books and watch different kinds of movies when I have time. It doesn’t necessarily need to connect to my art directly, but I believe it helps my way of thinking. Also, I get inspiration from architecture and I sometimes travel to other countries and like to imagine people’s lives there.

How long do the illustrations usually take you to do?

Watercolour has to be quick, because when it is dry, I can’t fix it. So when I start putting watercolour, it doesn’t take a long time to paint at all…but if I make any mistakes, I have to repaint it all over again.

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At what age did you realise you were creative?

My dream was always related to art. When I was in 2nd grade, I wanted to be a fashion designer, and when I was in junior high school, my dream was to be a trumpeter. However, I knew these dreams were just dreams. The time I decided to follow my creativity was in high school. I went to a high school in Switzerland and the way they thought was different from Japan. After we made something in art class, we had a critique time, which was unusual for a Japanese high school. At that time, I realized how I love to show my art to other people and decided to study art more.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years time?

I have no idea where I will be living because I am constantly moving around the world; such as Switzerland, New York, London, Tokyo, and Kanazawa. What I am sure about is that I will have a cute dog and I will name it “Maru the 6th” (my family’s dog is always named “Maru”), and painting everyday.

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Besides art and photography, what are you passions or interests in life?

Kimono is traditional clothing that is still worn in Japan. However, there are many rules about the choice of patterns, colours, and fabric. Because my family works in the Kimono business, I have always wanted to study the Kimono. One of my passions is to study the Kimono and become a Kimono teacher.

Which are your favourite artists/illustrators/photographers?

For now, I like Makoto Aida, a Japanese artist. When I first saw his paintings, I couldn’t move for long time.

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Tell us a secret!

Follow your mind!

Sound advice from a lady who obviously tastes her own medicine.
Emma Puntis

Supplement
31 Temple Street
Bethnal Green
London E2 6QQ

25th July – 16th August
Thursday – Sunday 12 – 6pm

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“Emma Puntis, hospital a Chelsea College of Art and Design graduate, paints strangely intense small-scale portraits. The images which act as inspiration for her work are collected from a wide range of sources, from contemporary family snapshots to historical documents of early photography and traditional landscape painting. In translating these images into paintings she suggests a puzzling connection between these apparently disparate snapshots.”

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A Tradition I Do Not Mean To Break

176 Gallery
176 Prince of Wales Road
London NW5 3PT

Until 16th August
Thursday & Friday 11am-3pm
Saturday & Sunday 11am-6pm
Other times by appointment

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Continuing with the theme of music and folklore at the 176 Gallery, this exhibition promises exciting new audiovisual work including films by David Blandy, Henry Coombes and Tereza Bušková, and will be presented alongside works, by the same artists, from the Zabludowicz Collection.Each artist explores a particular cultural subject with which they strongly identify, using myth, custom and symbolism, delving into gothica, melancholy and opulence.

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Make Do and Mend

V&A Museum of Childhood
Cambridge Heath Rd
London, E2 9PA

Until 8th November
Monday – Sunday 10am to 5:45pm

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“Make Do and Mend combines the work of contemporary designers and local schoolchildren. Jon Male, Lou Rota and Max McMurdo rework salvaged domestic and industrial waste to create stylish, quirky new products. The exhibition is based around a display of objects which have been salvaged and refashioned to make useful new items, with an eye on both the environment and the wallet. Anti-waste wartime tips on cutting excessive consumption have an obvious resonance in today’s economic climate and the campaign to salvage, recycle, and reduce your carbon footprint is also impacting on design.”

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Team Lump: DIY Rapture

Cell Project Space
258 Cambridge Heath Rd
London, E2 9DA

Until 2nd August
Friday – Sunday 12pm – 6pm

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A fascinating discussion on the culture of cults in America lead by native art collective Team Lump, collaborating nicely with drawing, sculpture, painting and film & music. With a focus on the social and political unrest surrounding cults, founder Bill Thelen presents the group who are connected by a DIY aesthetic and a self publishing ethic.
Team Lump Collective, Raleigh, North Carolina, USA
Leah Bailis, Jerstin Crosby Josh Rickards, Bill Thelen ,Tory Wright

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Village Fete Jubilee

V&A
Cromwell Rd
London SW7 2RL

24th July 6.30-10pm
25th July 1-5pm
Admission: £3
Kids 12 years and under: 50p and must be accompanied by an adult

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This year the V&A’s famous Village Fete goes POP ! with the aid of our fabulous sponsors French Connection and just a few balloons. This balloon popping extravanganza is brought to you by Scarlet Projects and Mark Garside. Once again, we bring you the best and most extraordinary in contemporary British design and creative practice. Never has Splat The Rat, coconut shies and homemade jam seemed so much fun. Many thanks go to all the designers taking part in the Fete for their wonderful ideas, their time and their energy.

Highlights:

Carl Clerkin Goes -BING!
Bada Bingo
Kieron Baroutchi, Carl and Cavan Clerkin, Danny Clarke, Gitta Gschwendtner, Rosie Irvine and Ed Ward do Bada Bingo. This years cultural roulette has a distinct Italian American flavor. Cigars, revolving costumes and plenty of drama and of course everyones a winner at the Bing.

Here’s One I Made Ea rlier Goes -Rustle!
Pick ‘n’ Mix Bags
Make like an eco magpie and delve into our pick ‘n’ mix selection of bits and bobs for you to stamp, stick and style your own unique canvas bag. Perfect for transporting your stash of fete goodies!!

Tatty Devine Goes -hoopla!
Welcome to The Ring Master!
The trusty Tatty team will be handing out giant rings for you to throw onto the giant ring master’s hands. If you manage to get a ring on any finger then you win either a Tatty Devine moustache ring or a limited edition hand shaped ring made especially for the fete. Ready Steady. . .Tatty Hoop la!

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Candy Coated Canvas

London Miles Gallery
212 Kensington Park Road
Notting Hill
London W11 1NR

24th July – 24th August
Tuesday / Wednesday : 10am to 6pm
Thursday : 11am to 8pm
Friday: 10am to 7pm
Saturday: 11am to 7pm

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“Candy Coated Canvas is a themed group exhibition showcasing unique artworks by various established and emerging international talent. All artists have been asked to take inspiration from the title “Candy Coated Canvas” and create a unique art piece which is visually extremely colourful and playful, whilst sparking up memories of childhood, sweets, fantasy lands and those naughty but nice pleasures in life.”

Exhibiting artists include:
D’ Holbachie Yoko, Matthew Bone, Zoe Lacchei, Tadaomi Shibuya, Mike Bilz, Lost Fish, Ryan Myers, Sebastian Otto, Scrumptious Delight, Robert Tirado, Rudi Fig, Natalie Shau, Jade Klara, David Palumbo, Luke Kopycinski, Amanda Riley, KuKula,
Tiffany Liu
For me, sildenafil albums by bands I love leaking pre-release onto the internet is not dissimilar to that childhood dilemma of deciding whether to peek at your birthday presents too early ( I say “childhood”-I’m 23 and I still do it), advice you can’t really imagine not doing it but you always feel guilty for the gift-giver afterwards.
Extended metaphors aside, I personally have fallen both sides of the download/ not download leaks even though I always buy the album when it comes out. I always seem to be sitting on my hands trying not to click ‘download’ (Veckatimest, Spring 2009) or staring down at them in shame whilst I enjoy the album guiltily like you would a 5-7 love affair in a seedy hotel after 20 years of separate bed pious marriage (Merriweather Post Pavillion, Christmas Eve 2008).

So this is why when news of the Dodos‘ Time to Die reached my beady music geek eyes, I abstained from scouring Rapidshare links in a darkened room. I’ve turned over a new leaf and besides the Dodos’ fun jingle-jangle psychedelic folk pop offerings; ‘Beware of the Maniacs’ and ‘Visiter’ were pretty much my go-to albums of last summer; we danced at parties and took many a long train journey together so I pretty much owed them some of my very low self-restraint levels.

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Imagine my relief when I got the golden tickets of emails from the Dodos’ PR and all round good- guys; Radar Maker heralding (in what I imagine to be a peeling of bells and rippling fanfares) that the Dodos have embraced the leak of Time to Die, that the band have even released a high quality stream of the album on the website and a video of the band telling me it’s OK to listen to it as long as I buy the album when it’s released. My palms sweaty at the anticipation of revisiting last summer’s aural romance I click the link to listen.

‘Small Deaths’ opens the album in typical Dodos foot-stomping fashion and I’m reminded of just how rousing their drums are as my toes begin a-tapping under my desk and of their happy/sad blend that I vibed last summer; how heartbreakingly nostalgic their lyrics are, and how they contrast so nicely with the childlike simple happiness of their melodies. It also ends with a nice shoegaze noise which is exciting.

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The album continues with all the best parts of the previous two albums, their awesome guitar strumming/ danceable drums that sound like this is going to be the soundtrack to the best day of your life, noticeable on ‘Fables’ and ‘Longform’. Yet there is a definite sense of new things being tried out; there is a definite nod to shoegaze and ‘Time to Die’ is more electric sounding than it’s predecessors; ‘This is the Business’ starts of sounding like Simon and Garfunkel moving into some Pavement-esque riffs and ending somewhere totally new. Two Medicines is a stand out track for me; it starts of with, and is held together by an acapella harmonious chant; like if Brian Wilson was in a Barbershop quartet with Animal Collective circa Sung Tongs; then add some 90s guitar riffs again contrasting with a lush sounding xylophones and glockenspiels slipping and sliding away in the background.

‘Troll Nacht’ starts with the most intense xylophone solo not unlike the music they’d play whilst someone was trying to answer an important question on a quiz show melting into some gentle guitar plucking loops and sad quiet vocals, then it explodes into something bigger and exciting, I can feel my year-old summer romance with the Dodos warming up again. ‘Acorn Factory’ follows on seamlessly in it’s folky simplicity. Time to Die ends the album in a grandiose fashion, it kind of sounds like if My Bloody Valentine swapped black for plaid, moved to the country and developed a penchant for folk, which lets’ face it is always going to sound awesome. Dare I name their new exciting tryst with shoegaze mixed with their old folky, psychedelic ways; Birkenstock-gaze? I think so.

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Time to Die is everything you could want in a new album from a band you love; enough of the things you loved about them before with a definite sense of new things being tried out.

So say thank you to the Dodos (Thank You The Dodos!) for their infinite talent and the good vibes to streaming the album by buying/ downloading Time to Die when it comes out; I can promise you that it is worth it, it will be the soundtrack to the best summer you could have, with none of the sweaty guilt of illicit downloading!
In the mean time kids: Just Say No (and stream instead)…and ermm…Stay In School.

You can stream the album here.
Time to Die will be available physically on 31st August in the UK on Wichita Recordings
and metaphysically (to download) on 27th July.

Monday 20th July

The Truth about Climate Change by Sir David Attenborough

A film screening of Sir David Attenborough’s personal journey to discover how global warming is changing the planet he knows so well. Examining the evidence for this confusing phenomenon, cost Sir David find out what’s causing it and whether mankind is to blame. From Hurricane Katrina to the glacier ice crashing into the sea, visit this site Attenborough discovers it’s a race against time. Starving polar bears and the first direct victims of global warming, the recently extinct golden toad, demonstrates that the danger for humanity may not be far behind. David explores the personal and technological changes we can make to avert catastrophe.

7.30pm – upstairs at the Arcola Theatre.

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DIY Solar Hot Water Course in Spain

Over five mornings course attendees will construct two clip fin solar hot water panels. Attendees will learn how to solder copper piping, basic plumbing, how to install solar hot water collectors and be given an introduction to system design and sizing. 280 euros high waged, 230 euros medium waged, 180 euros low waged. Courses attendees are eligible to a 20% reduction in the normal Sunseed rates for a period of 1-3 weeks before or after the course.

Contact: Sunseed Apdo 9 04270 Sorbas Almería Spain (0034) 950 525 770 www.sunseed.org.uk
E-mail: sunseedspain@arrakis.es
www.sunseed.org.uk

Tuesday 21st July

From ‘me’ to ‘we’

Mark Earls discusses the emergence of the “social revolution” in marketing management and social policy, the changing focus from individual, narrow, goals-oriented thinking to a broader, community-led approach.

Contact: lectures@rsa.org.uk
1pm – RSA, 8 John Adam Street, London WC2

Wednesday 22nd July

Demonstration to save Vestas Wind Turbine factory

Take to the streets to protest the imminent closure of the only wind turbine factory in the UK.

Contact: info@campaigncc.org
6pm – outside the Department of Energy and Climate Change, 3 Whitehall Place, London

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Vestas-built wind farm, Black Banks, Ireland

Thursday 23rd July

Resurgence Readers Weekend & Camp

A unique event bringing together Resurgence readers, speakers and supporters. Share four days of stimulating discussion, music, dance, crafts and walks with fellow readers and contributors to the magazine at this year’s camp. The Resurgence Summer Camp is hosted by Green and Away – Europe’s only tented conference centre situated on an idyllic site near Malvern, Worcestershire. Organic food, wood-burning showers, crafts, electricity from the sun and wind, and saunas.

Contact: Resurgence, Ford House, Hartland, Bideford, Devon EX39 – info@resurgence.org
Dates: Thursday 23 Jul 2009 to Sunday 26 Jul 2009 – Green and Away, Worcester

Friday 24th July

Peace News Summer Camp

Come to the Peace News Summer Camp and join people from across the broad spectrum of the British peace movement for five days of exploration, celebration and empowerment. Bring your contribution to a hothouse of creativity, a small self-governed society run by democratic camp meetings, a viable example of the kind of world we are trying to bring about. The Peace News Summer Camp helps build a radical movement for the future by building a living community today.

from Thursday 23rd to Monday 27th July – Faringdon, Oxfordshire
Find out all about it, here.

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Saturday 25th July

Furniture Conservation

Bring your own furniture and repair/re-polish/refurbish it with the help of Anne Holden, a former professional furniture restorer. Suitable work would be small repairs, French polishing, stripping and re-polishing, surface cleaning and revival, replacing missing bits of veneer etc. Bring several pieces if possible as it may be necessary to leave stripped or glued furniture to dry for a period.

No previous experience necessary. Tools are available for loan but bring your own if you have them and learn how to sharpen them. Materials will be provided, but a small charge will be made if large quantities are used.

Contact: Anne Holden – 01787 229955 – info@assingtonmill.com
9.30am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday – Assington Mill, Suffolk

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Photo : Brenda Hochachka

Sunday 26th July

Annual Bug Hunt at RSPB Rainham Marshes

If you like bugs then our expert ‘Spiderman’ will show you the small wonders of the natural world. From Wasp Spiders to Devils Coachman – we hope to find them all. Bring a packed lunch as this will be a fun packed day. Booking Essential.

RSPB Members: £3.50, WEX members: £1.50, Adult non members: £7, child non members: £3

11am – 4pm – RSPB Rainham Marshes Nature Reserve, New Tank Hill Road, Purfleet. RM19 1SZ

Contact: RSPB Rainham Marshes – 01708 899840 – Rainham.marshes@rspb.org.uk

Summer is here in a crashing bundle of thunderclouds- check out this weeks music listings- there more electrifying than the lightening we’ve been having. Prepared to be shocked (in the good way).

Monday 20th July 2009
DM Stith, and Hoxton Bar and Grill, patient London

DM Stith comes to our humble shores on a swell of strings and a flicker of guitar plucking. There is something creepy and beautiful about his whispering lilting voice on Heavy Ghost debut LP (Asthmatic Kitty), sickness and indeed he sounds like a ghostly take on the man with the guitar type. If you like Bon Iver and being slightly frightened then this is for you.

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Tuesday 21st July 2009
Hjaltalin, The Lexington, London

After last week’s epic and magical múm gig, I’m hungry for more Icelandic music (and accents). Hjaltalin make lovely orchestral pop in the vein of Sufjan Stevens, complete with brass, woodwinds and magic! If anyone knows how to pronounce Hjaltalin- answers on a postcard to P.O BOX- Amelia’s Towers.

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Wednesday 22nd July 2009
Oh Minnows, Pure Groove, London

Oh Minnows, apart from having an awesome name, play the kind of synth heavy creepy pop that would fit oh-so perfectly into a David Lynch film, making me immeasurably happy and just slightly creeped out. Not to be missed for Twin Peaks geeks!

Thursday 23rd July 2009
Koko Von Napoo and Eugene Mc Guiness Buffalo Bar, London

Paris’ Koko Von Napoo do boy/girl, chic/spacey in equal measures. Fun pop that aims towards ESG mixed with John Maus. Eugene McGuinness shares the bill with his fun lo-fi folk that leans towards a vintage 50s vibe at times. He also has a song called “Fonz” which begs the question how could he possibly not be good?
DJs from both sides of the Channel follow.

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Friday 24th July 2009
Yacht, Pure Groove, London

Given the current economic climate, here is the 2nd free gig at Pure Groove I’ve included this week. Oregon’s finest electronica outfit and general heroes Yacht will blow your mind and your socks off. If you come, I’ll save you a dance and a high five.

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Saturday 25th July 2009
Au Revoir Simone, Proud Galleries, London

You may remember a few months ago a lucky member of the Amelia’s Magazine team got to interview Au Revoir Simone, and see them live afterwards, ok, she did an excellent job but since that point my resentment and jealousy have been festering in secret, but now I breathe a sigh of relief and jump for joy as they’re playing again and I pipped the other interns to the post at the chance to see them. Not only do they have the best legs in music, they continue to make beautiful and melodic pop music.
Support from Swedish Those Dancing Days who play organ-tinged girly Northern Soul .

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What does a girl look for after finding the perfect pair of shoes? I might have hazarded a guess at the perfect man, there but in this post- Sex and the City and post-feminist world, the general consensus amongst my female friends seemed to be that more important than having a man about to put up shelves (etc) was having the most beautiful dress, made to fit them perfectly.

And I know of just the place to look.Makemeadress.com is the brainchild of Alexandra King, a fashion designer with a love of all things pretty, vintage and girly. Customers get to choose every part of the dress to create a one off, unique garment. There is a choice of ten top halves and six bottom halves, so you simply flick through the sketches to find your perfect match. Then there is the huge choice of fabrics, with everything ranging from stunning silks and satins to practical cottons and gorgeous assortment of vintage fabrics for the true, one-of-a-kind look.

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With a studio next door to her house by a Somerset river, Alexi’s surroundings are a far cry from the harsh edges of the London catwalks, instead infusing fashion and dressmaking with that that often elusive sense of warmth and romance. Dropping by her house for tea, I somehow always make sure to find the time to rummage through her extensive archive of the very best pieces she has collected over the years. Being a lifelong friend I know the sheer number of pies this fashionista has her delicate little fingers in! There is the mothership, www.alexandra-king.com: simply reading the glowing testimonials from grateful clients it is not hard to see that this is a designer definitely worth her salt. This is the place to find bespoke wedding dresses (again made to measure) lingerie and key pieces from past and present collections. Then there is the eBay shop, a mecca for vintage lovers to pick up carefully selected on off pieces. And it is not just e-commerce that Mrs King deals in. Alexandra also works for St. Peters Hospice in Bristol, sorting through donations to help the charity with her fashionable eye. Finally, jewellery is another passion, with Alexi creating statement pieces to perfectly set off an outfit and hats for any occasion.

Multitalented? Yes ma’am.

What inspired you to set up the site?

I graduated in fashion design in 2005 and had to choose whether I moved to London to find a job or to stay in the countryside to work for myself. I chose the latter and have been designing my own vintage range for boutiques since then, along with running my vintage store. Makemeadress came along when I wanted to combine the individuality of the one off vintage dresses with my own designs. It needed to compete in the fashion market against the likes of Topshop and boutiques by offering the customer a unique service that they couldn’t get on the high street .

What is it you love about vintage dresses?

Everything! They are usually so beautifully made and the fabrics are just so exciting. I’m a collector also and you can get quite addicted to finding specific pieces by designers, especially after you have read their books! It’s lovely to own a little piece of fashion history before we had such mass- produced garments.

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Who makes and designs the dress once the order has been processed & where, are they made at home?

At the moment I design and do a little bit of making at my studio. I also have a small group seamstresses local to me who are fabulous at what they do. I’m hoping to bring some other designers in on the project in the future so that there is a wider range of styles.

How much input can the customer have with regards to colour, fabric and style?

With MMaD the customer can really create whatever they want. If they can’t see something they like, they can always send a photo in and we’ll make up the dress for them. I would really like to expand the range of colours and fabrics and hopefully this will be achieved on the upcoming website.

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Is £97 your set price…or do the prices vary?

I wanted to keep the dresses under £100 to make them accessible to all, and it’s the set price for all the MMaD dresses. The website will be offering one off ready to wear dresses which may be a little more expensive depending on the work that has gone into them. I believe in paying the seamstresses a fair price for thier work, not cutting corners by using poor quality fabrics and being sensible about profits which go straight back into the buisness.

How do you deal with problem of measuring the customer, if orders are processed over eBay?

This was one of the initial problems I was most aware of. The website will have a clear size guide, a guide on how to measure yourself and we do also offer an alteration service free of charge if the dress doesn’t fit first time. The customers have been quite good so far at measuring themselves and getting it right. Only a couple of blips like when a bridesmaid ate too much for lunch and then couldn’t fit into her dress when it arrived. Luckily it was fine the next day! Selling vintage clothing has given me a lot of experience in measuring and fitting for the cutomers.

How long does it take to make and dispatch the dress to the customer?

Each MMaD dress is cut once we have the order, nothing can be pre-made. Once it’s cut, the dress is sewn by the seamstress and then packed and delivered within two weeks to the customer. All produced in the local area.

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Are you finding that’s there is a high demand for vintage style dresses at the moment?

It’s huge and I think it always will be. Sites like eBay and etsy have just made buying vintage clothing more accessible and people who are interested in fashion in any way, will always love it. The only worry is that all those vintage dresses will run out, but then hopefully you will have MMaD!

If you could describe your service in a few sentences what would you say?

Create the dress of your dreams…. your style, your colour, your dress. It’s all about you! And if you’re not sure, you can have one of the fabulous dresses we made earlier!

Categories ,Bespoke garments, ,Jewellery, ,Millinery, ,Retro, ,Vintage

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Amelia’s Magazine | Good Fashion Show: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Antonia Parker

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Antonia Parker

Following on the footsteps of other London Fashion Week off-schedule showrooms which focus on ethical fashion, such as Ecoluxe London, The Good Fashion Show was an entirely new, day long event combining a marketplace, talks and an art exhibition during the day with an evening runway show. As someone who is interested in design in relation to sustainability, of course I wanted to check this newcomer out. Unfortunately due to attending other London Fashion Week events earlier in the day, I could only visit the London House, where The Good Fashion Show was taking place in the evening to watch the runway show.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Geo Twins by Erica Sharp

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Geo Twins by Erica Sharp

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Beautiful Ensemble by Zarina Liew

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Beautiful Ensemble by Zarina Liew

Upon arrival I had to pass through a number of stalls placed on the outside corridors which exuded an atmosphere of a craft market or jumble sale – not a very good start. I was also a little disappointed to find the work of brilliant illustrators Erica Sharp and Zarina Liew – whom I first saw in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration – badly curated and placed in a corridor where their beauty was totally drowned out by the style of this building with its town hall feel.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Nina Burri photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Miti Desai photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Unlike other on or off-schedule London Fashion Week events, which are mainly open to press and buyers only, The Good Fashion Show Marketplace could be visited by anyone for a £5 entry fee and similarly the general public could buy a £30 ticket for the evening catwalk show. As this was a paid event the organisers felt they had to provide the audience with some form of extra entertainment in between showcasing the clothes. During an almost two-hour affair we were treated to a combination of live acts which included singing by Omar, body bending by contortionist Nina Burri, story telling about the hindu god Shiva followed by classical Indian dancing by Miti Desai, musical sewing by Brazilian performance artist and designer Lisa Simpson, more live music by band Left at the Robot and a screening of the short film and then it was gone made by fashion photographer Claire Pepper.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by  Deborah Moon

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Deborah Moon

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

During the evening I thought it was a shame, and rather unfortunate for the designers, that the models walked out one after another with the audience having no guidance as to whose designer’s work they were looking at. I had to do quite a bit of research after the show in order to match up some of the designs I had photographed with their designers. Even worse for the promotion of the designers represented, I could not find many captions on the photo galleries published on The Good Fashion Show’s website and Facebook page post show. Fortunately I did manage to find the designer of my favorite outfit of the evening, which was a fun looking and contemporary knitted two piece designed by Jeni Allison.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Dana Bocai

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Dana Bocai

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Another relatively interesting designer on show was Sara Li-Chou Han, who reworks denim and suit pieces from charity shops into more elaborate dresses.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

We also saw some minimal designs, such as this dress by Fashion Compassion.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

I totally support and love shops such as Beyond Retro and Oxfam Fashion, which were shown at The Good Fashion Show, however a lot of the vintage looks could have been styled in a more interesting way.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Some of the menswear looks were a bit of a better hit with me, featuring baggy trousers and gigantic necklaces made out of reused computer game controls by funky customising brand Red Mutha.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

In the spirit of resourcefulness a few of the models showed us how an outfit could be turned into a new one, depending on how you wear it.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

The show also covered underwear, showcasing brands such as Who Made Your Pants and In Bloom London.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Geiko Louve

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Geiko Louve

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

The last few numbers, like Tuncer Tonun’s basket hand bags and potato sack jackets, were a bit more theatrical and the event closed with a rather pretty bubble wrap dress. Unfortunately, as a whole, The Good Fashion Show did not do much to present green fashion as a platform for forward thinking, really good looking fashion design. I thought this was mainly to the way the show was curated and organised, as really brilliant ethical brands such as Emesha, Outsider Fashion, Henrietta Ludgate or From Somewhere were part of it, but still looked unimpressive because of the way they were presented and the context they were put in.

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou.

Categories ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Antonia Harrowing, ,Antonia Parker, ,Beyond Retro, ,Claire Pepper, ,Classical Indian Dance, ,Cobalt Cafe, ,Dana Bocai, ,Deborah Moon, ,Ecoluxe, ,Erica Sharp, ,Ethical Fashion, ,From Somewhere, ,Geiko Louve, ,Good Fashion Show, ,Henrietta Ludgate, ,illustration, ,In Bloom London, ,Jeni Allison, ,knitwear, ,Left at The Robot, ,Lisa Simpson, ,London Fashion Week, ,London House, ,Love Amelia, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,menswear, ,Miti Desai, ,Nina Burri, ,Off Schedule, ,Omar, ,Outsider Fashion, ,Oxfam Fashion, ,Red Mutha, ,Sara Li-Chou Han, ,Shiva, ,Sustainable Fashion, ,Tuncer Tonun, ,underwear, ,vintage, ,Who Made Your Pants, ,Zarina Liew

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Amelia’s Magazine | Good Fashion Show: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Antonia Parker

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Antonia Parker

Following on the footsteps of other London Fashion Week off-schedule showrooms which focus on ethical fashion, such as Ecoluxe London, The Good Fashion Show was an entirely new, day long event combining a marketplace, talks and an art exhibition during the day with an evening runway show. As someone who is interested in design in relation to sustainability, of course I wanted to check this newcomer out. Unfortunately due to attending other London Fashion Week events earlier in the day, I could only visit the London House, where The Good Fashion Show was taking place in the evening to watch the runway show.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Geo Twins by Erica Sharp

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Geo Twins by Erica Sharp

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Beautiful Ensemble by Zarina Liew

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Beautiful Ensemble by Zarina Liew

Upon arrival I had to pass through a number of stalls placed on the outside corridors which exuded an atmosphere of a craft market or jumble sale – not a very good start. I was also a little disappointed to find the work of brilliant illustrators Erica Sharp and Zarina Liew – whom I first saw in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration – badly curated and placed in a corridor where their beauty was totally drowned out by the style of this building with its town hall feel.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Nina Burri photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 Miti Desai photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Unlike other on or off-schedule London Fashion Week events, which are mainly open to press and buyers only, The Good Fashion Show Marketplace could be visited by anyone for a £5 entry fee and similarly the general public could buy a £30 ticket for the evening catwalk show. As this was a paid event the organisers felt they had to provide the audience with some form of extra entertainment in between showcasing the clothes. During an almost two-hour affair we were treated to a combination of live acts which included singing by Omar, body bending by contortionist Nina Burri, story telling about the hindu god Shiva followed by classical Indian dancing by Miti Desai, musical sewing by Brazilian performance artist and designer Lisa Simpson, more live music by band Left at the Robot and a screening of the short film and then it was gone made by fashion photographer Claire Pepper.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by  Deborah Moon

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Deborah Moon

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

During the evening I thought it was a shame, and rather unfortunate for the designers, that the models walked out one after another with the audience having no guidance as to whose designer’s work they were looking at. I had to do quite a bit of research after the show in order to match up some of the designs I had photographed with their designers. Even worse for the promotion of the designers represented, I could not find many captions on the photo galleries published on The Good Fashion Show’s website and Facebook page post show. Fortunately I did manage to find the designer of my favorite outfit of the evening, which was a fun looking and contemporary knitted two piece designed by Jeni Allison.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Dana Bocai

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Dana Bocai

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Another relatively interesting designer on show was Sara Li-Chou Han, who reworks denim and suit pieces from charity shops into more elaborate dresses.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

We also saw some minimal designs, such as this dress by Fashion Compassion.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

I totally support and love shops such as Beyond Retro and Oxfam Fashion, which were shown at The Good Fashion Show, however a lot of the vintage looks could have been styled in a more interesting way.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Some of the menswear looks were a bit of a better hit with me, featuring baggy trousers and gigantic necklaces made out of reused computer game controls by funky customising brand Red Mutha.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

In the spirit of resourcefulness a few of the models showed us how an outfit could be turned into a new one, depending on how you wear it.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

The show also covered underwear, showcasing brands such as Who Made Your Pants and In Bloom London.

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Geiko Louve

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 by Geiko Louve

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Good Fashion Show AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

The last few numbers, like Tuncer Tonun’s basket hand bags and potato sack jackets, were a bit more theatrical and the event closed with a rather pretty bubble wrap dress. Unfortunately, as a whole, The Good Fashion Show did not do much to present green fashion as a platform for forward thinking, really good looking fashion design. I thought this was mainly to the way the show was curated and organised, as really brilliant ethical brands such as Emesha, Outsider Fashion, Henrietta Ludgate or From Somewhere were part of it, but still looked unimpressive because of the way they were presented and the context they were put in.

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou.

Categories ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Antonia Harrowing, ,Antonia Parker, ,Beyond Retro, ,Claire Pepper, ,Classical Indian Dance, ,Cobalt Cafe, ,Dana Bocai, ,Deborah Moon, ,Ecoluxe, ,Erica Sharp, ,Ethical Fashion, ,From Somewhere, ,Geiko Louve, ,Good Fashion Show, ,Henrietta Ludgate, ,illustration, ,In Bloom London, ,Jeni Allison, ,knitwear, ,Left at The Robot, ,Lisa Simpson, ,London Fashion Week, ,London House, ,Love Amelia, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,menswear, ,Miti Desai, ,Nina Burri, ,Off Schedule, ,Omar, ,Outsider Fashion, ,Oxfam Fashion, ,Red Mutha, ,Sara Li-Chou Han, ,Shiva, ,Sustainable Fashion, ,Tuncer Tonun, ,underwear, ,vintage, ,Who Made Your Pants, ,Zarina Liew

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: Bath Spa


Nicola Roberts, dosage illustrated by Jenny Robins

So it was time to wrap up what was a pretty crazy week in the form of the Graduate Fashion Week Gala Show. After making arrangements for a ticket a while ago, viagra 60mg I was bemused to find that at the door there was no sign of said tickets.

Perhaps it had been taken by another contributor? Unlikely. ‘Are you sure you’re supposed to be at this (star-studded) show?’ ‘Yes’ I said, ‘that’s why I’m wearing a bow tie’.

After a few quick radio calls, I was allowed in. Into Earl’s Court, that is – not into the champagne drinks reception. ‘Sponsors only’ was the reply when I asked if I could have a quick drinkie. ‘Sponsors only my eye’ I thought, as I recognised half the people in the fashionably-roped off bar area.

So I waited patiently at the entrance to the theatre. And waited.

And waited.

‘We’ll get you in,’ I was told. ‘Before it actually starts?’ I thought to myself.

As I waited I was entertained by a lovely student called April who could see my blood boiling – stood a little distance away to avoid the steam coming out of my ears. ‘After all I’ve bloody done this week,’ I thought to myself, and then said aloud to April, who quickly excused herself.

Finally I was allowed inside and ushered into a press seat, and, true to form at these events, there were three seats either side of me that remained empty. ‘Typical!’ I thought to myself, and then thought I really should stop thinking to myself so much.

With a few whoops and a whizz, the Gala Show kicked off in fabulous fashion, with Britain’s Got Talent champions Diversity. Fun. Next, Caryn Franklin, resplendent as ever, arrived on stage. It was a whistle-stop tour through the non-catwalk-based awards, including those for fashion marketing and promotion. I was pleased to see Northumbria added a few more to their metaphorical mantelpiece.

A host of celebs had turned up, and from my seat I could spot front-row regular Erin O’Connor (who later presented an award), Nicola Roberts of Girls Aloud fame (who has quickly swapped pop for paps, Fashion Week regular that she is). I even brushed past her on my way to the loo, and she is genuinely gorgeous in real life.


Another Nicola Roberts, illustrated by Antonia Parker

It’s always great to see the wonderful Hilary Alexander (who I had the pleasure of sitting next to at the Northumbria Show) who presented mature student Ellen Devall with the ‘First Word’ Journalism Award, because it left her ‘wanting to know more.’

Another of my favourite spots was Barbara Hulanicki, who was here to present the Textile Award to Natalie Murray from Northumbria University. She’s utterly bonkers but gosh what a woman.


Barbara Hulanicki, illustrated by Abi Daker

Onto the main event – the Gala Show(case). I was thrilled to see many of the graduates we’d already talked about on the website appearing in this Best of the Best-style show, including Naomi New from Northumbria (one of my personal favourites from GFW as a whole) and Northbrook’s Rhea Fields.

The staging for this was incredible, and justified the ghaslty white sheet that hung in the background for the first part of the show. It burst down to reveal a scaffolding set, where models pouted, lights flashed, and the music roared.

So, the winners then. With the inclusion of the International Show this year, it was great to see them honoured with an award, which must have been a great end to a fantastic week for International Students. The winner, Roya Hesam from the Amsterdam Fashion Institute won over the judges with her minimalist collection.

Pretty soon afterwards, out popped everybody’s favourite glamorous granny, Zandra Rhodes, to present her Textiles Award.

The competition was fierce here – all were fantastic – but it was Anna Lee’s literally fierce collection of big cat prints that triumphed.

Dylan Jones, editor of GQ Magazine, presented Thomas Crisp of Ravensbourne with the marvellous Menswear prize, owing to his sleek, sophisticated tailoring.


Dylan Jones, illustrated by June Chanpoomidole

Rhea Fields (yay!) from Northbrook college won the womenswear award for her covetable collection and unique use of materials, presented by Mark Eley of Eley Kishimoto.


Mark Eley, illustrated by Lisa Billvik

So, the moment we’d all waited for (and in my case queued, sweated and been reduced to tears for) was the River Island Gold Award. God knows how the likes of River Island design director Naomi Dominique, Lorraine Candy of Elle and Kim Jones chose the winner, but it was down to fellow judge Alberta Ferretti to present the award.


Alberta Ferretti, illustrated by Paolo Caravello

And the winner was…

…Rebecca Thompson from Manchester Met! Thoroughly deserved for her inspirational collection. Alberta Ferretti proclaimed that Rebecca had triumphed because of her ‘unusual and interesting combination of fabrics and for the contemporary feeling of her collection’.

As the ticker tape covered Rebecca and her models, I thought to myself,’What a freakin’ fabulous week.’


Nicola Roberts, viagra approved illustrated by Jenny Robins

So it was time to wrap up what was a pretty crazy week in the form of the Graduate Fashion Week Gala Show. After making arrangements for a ticket a while ago, medical I was bemused to find that at the door there was no sign of said tickets.

Perhaps it had been taken by another contributor? Unlikely. ‘Are you sure you’re supposed to be at this (star-studded) show?’ ‘Yes’ I said, ‘that’s why I’m wearing a bow tie’.

After a few quick radio calls, I was allowed in. Into Earl’s Court, that is – not into the champagne drinks reception. ‘Sponsors only’ was the reply when I asked if I could have a quick drinkie. ‘Sponsors only my eye’ I thought, as I recognised half the people in the fashionably-roped off bar area.

So I waited patiently at the entrance to the theatre. And waited.

And waited.

‘We’ll get you in,’ I was told. ‘Before it actually starts?’ I thought to myself.

As I waited I was entertained by a lovely student called April who could see my blood boiling – stood a little distance away to avoid the steam coming out of my ears. ‘After all I’ve bloody done this week,’ I thought to myself, and then said aloud to April, who quickly excused herself.

Finally I was allowed inside and ushered into a press seat, and, true to form at these events, there were three seats either side of me that remained empty. ‘Typical!’ I thought to myself, and then thought I really should stop thinking to myself so much.

With a few whoops and a whizz, the Gala Show kicked off in fabulous fashion, with Britain’s Got Talent champions Diversity. Fun. Next, Caryn Franklin, resplendent as ever, arrived on stage. It was a whistle-stop tour through the non-catwalk-based awards, including those for fashion marketing and promotion. I was pleased to see Northumbria added a few more to their metaphorical mantelpiece.

A host of celebs had turned up, and from my seat I could spot front-row regular Erin O’Connor (who later presented an award), Nicola Roberts of Girls Aloud fame (who has quickly swapped pop for paps, Fashion Week regular that she is). I even brushed past her on my way to the loo, and she is genuinely gorgeous in real life.


Another Nicola Roberts, illustrated by Antonia Parker

It’s always great to see the wonderful Hilary Alexander (who I had the pleasure of sitting next to at the Northumbria Show) who presented mature student Ellen Devall with the ‘First Word’ Journalism Award, because it left her ‘wanting to know more.’

Another of my favourite spots was Barbara Hulanicki, who was here to present the Textile Award to Natalie Murray from Northumbria University. She’s utterly bonkers but gosh what a woman.


Barbara Hulanicki, illustrated by Abi Daker

Onto the main event – the Gala Show(case). I was thrilled to see many of the graduates we’d already talked about on the website appearing in this Best of the Best-style show, including Naomi New from Northumbria (one of my personal favourites from GFW as a whole) and Northbrook’s Rhea Fields.

The staging for this was incredible, and justified the ghaslty white sheet that hung in the background for the first part of the show. It burst down to reveal a scaffolding set, where models pouted, lights flashed, and the music roared.

So, the winners then. With the inclusion of the International Show this year, it was great to see them honoured with an award, which must have been a great end to a fantastic week for International Students. The winner, Roya Hesam from the Amsterdam Fashion Institute won over the judges with her minimalist collection.

Pretty soon afterwards, out popped everybody’s favourite glamorous granny, Zandra Rhodes, to present her Textiles Award.

The competition was fierce here – all were fantastic – but it was Anna Lee’s literally fierce collection of big cat prints that triumphed.

Dylan Jones, editor of GQ Magazine, presented Thomas Crisp of Ravensbourne with the marvellous Menswear prize, owing to his sleek, sophisticated tailoring.


Dylan Jones, illustrated by June Chanpoomidole

Rhea Fields (yay!) from Northbrook college won the womenswear award for her covetable collection and unique use of materials, presented by Mark Eley of Eley Kishimoto.


Mark Eley, illustrated by Lisa Billvik

So, the moment we’d all waited for (and in my case queued, sweated and been reduced to tears for) was the River Island Gold Award. God knows how the likes of River Island design director Naomi Dominique, Lorraine Candy of Elle and Kim Jones chose the winner, but it was down to fellow judge Alberta Ferretti to present the award.


Alberta Ferretti, illustrated by Paolo Caravello

And the winner was…

…Rebecca Thompson from Manchester Met! Thoroughly deserved for her inspirational collection. Alberta Ferretti proclaimed that Rebecca had triumphed because of her ‘unusual and interesting combination of fabrics and for the contemporary feeling of her collection’.

As the ticker tape covered Rebecca and her models, I thought to myself,’What a freakin’ fabulous week.’


Ruth Strugnell

Bath Spa’s electric and original collections show they’re not afraid to mix things up at Graduate Fashion Week. 

Bath Spa began with all guns blazing for their boutique show with Bournemouth, this web setting the scene with a soundtrack of haunting thunder and lightning. As suspense grew, page a model stepped into the spot light…with a lampshade on her head. As more models filtered onto the catwalk, Ruth Strugnell’s quirky eccentricity became clearer in garments that made the most of mismatching, from multicoloured socks to panels composed of various prints and wools. Despite looking like they might’ve had a tussle in a dressing up box, the models’ nipped in waists and cute, soft take on the harem pants added a sense of maturity and direction to the pieces.  

Jack Duffy mixed things up again with clashing prints and a melding of culture; oversize jackets suggested elements of Eastern tradition, whilst large, ornate collars mould themselves round the body into demi-hoods more befitting of European nobility. 

Thierry Davies’s hypnotic monochrome prints bend the mind but when paired with a neat, boxy jacket a line of harmony seems to be drawn amongst the chaos. Another perennial favourite of this year appears again – the jump-suit, this time spruced up with a dramatic contrast between blue and white sections. 

Jodie Clay’s garments varied from the loose, long hem of her black jacket to the glitz of a bespoke neckpiece and sheer blouse. The wardrobe of the 1920s women was re-examined in the modern context and energised with splashes of murky blues, but held an element of reticent class.

Natalie Ellis’s use of vintage fur coats and gloves reminded us of the staple role they played in the wardrobes of women gone by, but cropped double colour trousers were a reminder of Ellis’s unfailing dedication to modernity. Interesting shapes appeared on the body as high waisted trousers split cream khaki and black across the body, complimented by ethereal, floating blouses and fur barrel bags. 
*Here at Amelia’s Magazine we don’t advocate any wearing of fur at all, so we hope this is fake, otherwise, DON’T WEAR IT!*

Outi Silvola deconstructed apparel in the most immediate sense, repositioning collars, shoulders and buttons to give a mixed up feel that wouldn’t look out-of-place in Dover Street Market. A fully made collar placed forward on the body was a walking work of art. A shirt is at once open at yet concealing the figure, showing a careful appreciation of the simple practise of putting clothes on the human body. 

Photographs by Sally Mumby Croft

Categories ,1920s, ,art, ,Bath Spa, ,Dover Street Market, ,Earls Court, ,European nobility, ,Glitz, ,Gloves, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,Harem pants, ,Jack Duffy, ,Jodie Clay, ,Khaki, ,Lampshades, ,london, ,menswear, ,Natalie Ellis, ,Outi Silvola, ,Ruth Strugnell, ,Thierry Davies, ,vintage, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Introducing Pocket Full O’Posies, the new S/S 2012 collection by Kelly Love

Kelly Love Pocket Full O'Posies SS 2012 12
We first encountered the new collection by Kelly Love at the Fashion Capital Profile event in November last year, where the beautiful floral print sandwashed silk lounge wear designed by this up and coming Australian designer really stood out. Kelly Love was inspired to start her vintage inspired fashion label during a stint living in Japan, and on her return she went to study in Sydney before relocating to London in 2008. Her current S/S 2012 collection Pocket Full O’Posies features some beautiful romantic retro influences which look best worn with clunky black boots or crepe sole creepers and a loosely styled up do. Here’s a sneak preview of the new collection to brighten up this miserable January morning.

Kelly Love Pocket Full O'Posies SS 2012
Kelly Love Pocket Full O'Posies SS 2012 10
Kelly Love Pocket Full O'Posies SS 2012 9
Kelly Love Pocket Full O'Posies SS 2012 7
Pocket Full O’Posies S/S 2012 by Kelly Love. You can buy the current A/W 2011 collection online at her shop.

Categories ,Australian, ,Crepe Sole Creepers, ,Fashion Capital Profile, ,japan, ,Kelly Love, ,Pocket Full O’Posies, ,retro, ,Romantic, ,S/S 2012, ,Silk, ,sydney, ,vintage

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Amelia’s Magazine | Frock Me! Vintage Fair at the Brighton Corn Exchange


Illustration by Rosie Shephard

Coming in from a freezing cold Brighton day, here dosage I was welcomed with the warm glow of row upon row of vintage. A cornucopia of vintage clothing and accessories including 1950s lace wedding dresses, link 1960 shifts, information pills 1970s smocks and 1980s mohair. This was Frock Me Vintage Fashion Fair at the Brighton Corn Exchange. An enticing collection of clothes, bags, jewellery, shoes and even a whole stand dedicated to vintage buttons.

Frock Me Vintage Fashion Fairs, a vintage fashion institution no less, have been running since the mid 1990s. With awareness and demand for vintage apparel rising massively since the early 1990s, it’s clear to see Frock Me haven’t missed a trick. Walking in to the Corn Exchange was like stepping in to a props and costume department, no surprise really as Matthew Adams, who runs Frock Me, studied Costume and Theatre Design during the mid 1970s.

There’s something quite liberating about rummaging through row upon row of vintage clobber. The feeling that you’re buying a one-off,  something that’s built to last, something that’s stood the test of time, something with a history. Why would you want to buy anything new and mass produced ever again? Vintage is big business with everyone searching for one-of-a-kind fashion, and fairs like this attract an eclectic bunch adorned in various clothes throughout the ages, 1940s swing mixes seamlessly with 1960s kitsch, like a history lesson in style.


Illustration by Rosie Shephard

There was an overwhelming choice from over 70 exhibitors, but something caught my eye, all feathers and netting and appliqué, so like a magpie swoops on something shiny, I swooped in on a hat stall. To me these millinery marvels were the stars of the show. Lovely 1920s cloches, 1950s pillboxes and 1960s fur felt styles were begging to be tried on.

Frock Me Vintage Fashion Fairs have become a regular face on the vintage fashion circuit with fairs being held several times a year at Chelsea Town Hall and Brighton Corn Exchange.  Check out frockmevintagefashion.com for more details.

Categories ,1920s, ,1940s, ,1950s, ,1960s, ,1970s, ,1980s, ,brighton, ,Chelsea Town Hall, ,Corn Exhange, ,Costume, ,Dress, ,fashion, ,Frock Me, ,Matthew Adams, ,vintage

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dolls Night Out

IllustrEIGHT is a series of live art installations by eight up-and-coming artists, pill ed which has been set up against the walls of Topshop’s Oxford Circus and Manchester Arndale stores. The gallery exhibitions, see due to run until the 7th September, cost include an exclusive capsule collection of eight t-shirts inspired by each of the artists themselves. With art and fashion being my two favourite things, the event sounded too good to miss.

So I flip flop along to Topshop with my soon-to-be-obsolete student discount card burning a metaphorical hole in my soon-to-be-replaced pocket. Any hesitation about spending the hottest Saturday in recent British summer history in quite possibly the busiest shop in retail history somewhat assuaged by IllustrEIGHT’s canny guise as an art exhibition.

But first, in the spirit of journalistic veracity, a confession: my name is Arabella Gubay and I am a t-shirt phobic, who avoids, or at best, approaches this most casual of garb with extreme caution and lives instead in the t-shirt’s polar opposite, the Little Black Dress.

Naturally then, I’m cautious about critiquing IllustrEIGHT’s capsule collection of eight illustrated t-shirts. But, bolstered by the knowledge that the ubiquity of the slogan/illustrated/statement tee shows no sign of abating and willing to overcome my streetwear phobia, I go where I have not gone before: the Topshop jersey section.

From Fern Cotton’s plausibly Dairy Association sponsored Topshop ‘Love My Bones‘ t-shirt, to ingénue Alexa Chung’s monochrome ‘In the Deep End‘ Marc by Marc Jacobs tee, this is the season of the statement t-shirt. Funny, mind, that the statement of the most recent raft of tees is so uniformly ambiguous; eco warrior Katharine Hamnett’s iconic slogan tees seeming positively cavalier in their comparative certitude. ‘Stay Alive in ‘85′ they scream; “I think that ship has sailed” I retort.

But I digress, nestled at the back of Topshop’s jersey section lie IllustrEIGHT’s eight tees, while scattered around the cavernous store their correlative installations. I use the word ‘scattered’ lightly as it’s more like an advanced level egg hunt with (imperative) map provided. This though, is perhaps integral to the concept of IllustREIGHT, the exhibition drawing inspiration from the creative art collective Designersblock, whose raison d’être is exhibiting work in unusual, labyrinthine locations.

Having located Pomme Chan’s illustration on a plinth near Topshop’s Boutique section with the kind of sartorial homing instinct usually reserved for finding cheap as chips Jens Laugesen separates at designer sales, I make a bee line for Chan’s long line jersey tee emblazoned with gothic floral illustration.

topshop_chan_shirt-1.jpg

All of the illustrations are exquisite. From Joe Wilson’s elaborate and painstakingly etched design on ethereal eau de nil tee, apparently inspired by Quantum Physics and Scientific exploration – whoa there, it’s way too early sub-atomics – to London-based Kerry Roper’s eye popping pink gnomic design on an oh so A/W ’08 purple tee. With Topshop true to populist retail form, there is truly something for everyone.

topshop_wilson_shirt.jpg

topshop_roper_shirt.jpg

My only criticism is the tees themselves. Forget the sometime incompatibility of art and fashion, the rendering of eight ineffably beautiful illustrations on poorly cut viscose jersey tees seems to me the height of aburdity. Take Barcelona-based Alex Trochut’s whimsical necklace design on periwinkle blue t-shirt dress. The print reminiscent of Ricardo Tisci’s £3,750 ‘It’ necklace; the cut reminiscent of a straitjacket.

topshop_trochut_shirt-1.jpg

I’m tempted but with its batwing sleeves and heavily ruched seams the cut truly does preclude all but those most necessary movements; and I value my mobility. So with the foolproof dictum ‘fashion detail is style death’ ringing in my ears, I return Trochut’s beautiful tee to the rail, sadly surmising that this is, in fact, unwearable art. Brighton Art College graduate James Taylor’s graphic print tee with owl motif is perhaps the most successful overall. The plain white tee upon which the illustration is impressed allowing the print itself to make the statement, the cut and beautiful fit making this almost the perfect tee…but the fabric, oh dear the fabric.

topshop_taylor_shirt.jpg

And so my unexpected foray into Topshop’s more casual recesses sees me leave with two jersey pieces. The first, a Fair Trade 100% cotton tunic in ultraviolet and the second a Fair Trade Zip Front Tee in classic black. Perhaps the age-old equine idiom should be revised, you can lead a gal to the jersey section but you certainly can’t make her don viscose.

topshop_howell_shirt.jpg
Sarah Howell

topshop_malt_shirt-1.jpg
Harry Malt

topshop_seripop_shirt.jpg
Seripop
On Wednesday evening, help a handful of Amelia’s crew attended the Lee Moves East party to help celebrate the opening of a new Lee jeans showroom in Shoreditch. Arriving promptly on time, we helped ourselves to the drinks and then had a look around the two-floor display. Approached by friendly greeters, these denim experts were able to show us the collection and give us coupons for a chance to win a free pair of jeans. Unfortunately, none of us walked away with any.

lee_03.jpg

lee_04.jpg

There was a nice variety in the collection, but it lacked anything extraordinary or unexpected. It was your traditional all-American Lee style, with plenty of plaid button-ups, denim, graphic tees and studded leather jackets(which happened to be my personal favorite).

lee_08.jpg

Lee_001.jpg

lee_07.jpg

As the evening continued, the crowds gathered and the party was in full swing. There was an abundance of tasty hors d’oeuvres and drinks for everyone to enjoy while we mingled and satisfied our appetites. Live models and a DJ added to the atmosphere, with Pete and the Pirates scheduled to perform, but before we had the chance to check them out, we were on our way to the next event. Luckily, Sarah was able to hang around a bit to get a listen. Check out the music section soon to read more.

lee_09.jpg

lee_06.jpg
notting%20hill%20street%20crowd
Getting there proved a little difficult

Me and Dearbhaile arrived at Westbourne Park tube to the sound of carnival, site and we then waited for a good half an hour for various other people to arrive, treat which unfortunately they did not. This was to set a trend for most of the day. A testament to the fun of Notting Hill carnival however is that queuing and waiting are my two least favourite things – but despite all the delays during our day, adiposity I still had an amazing day.

On the way to the Diplo & Switch Barbecue I got to enjoy some staples for the true Notting Hill Carnival experience, such as people selling rum punch from a bucket they were carrying around, people offering the use of their toilets for the price of £5 and, of course, endlessly slow moving crowds of people. I have to say I was overjoyed to get out of the raucous and into the area, under a flyover, where the party was.

notting%20hill%20me
Oh dear

I then proceeded in spending the next few hours filling myself with beer, barbecue and music – and I couldn’t help but think that this is truly what bank holiday Mondays should be about. Especially when teamed with a line-up that made me child-like and girly with excitement.

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Unfortunately we missed the fantastically titled Mumdance, and didn’t catch an awful lot of Toddla T. The latter of which would have perhaps been the high point of my day. His own productions of more accessible Dancehall seem to work so well in British clubs, as they can sit alongside most line-ups, yet still stand out as something totally unique. However, we didn’t see much of his set, so it doesn’t really matter.

By the time we did manage to get on the dancefloor, (well, it was more of a section of car park), we were treated to the ridiculous sounds of Rusko. Although his own stuff tends to annoy me, due to the fact that he just tends to make less interesting, re-hashes of his biggest tune Cockney Thug – his set was a fairly mixed bag. He even reached for some bassline, which was, err, fun?

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After a rather squashed queuing for the bar, we then rejoined the crowd to see Heatwave’s set. This was perfect for a bit of late afternoon partying, it certainly got the crowd moving, and was the most carnival spirited set of the day – and perhaps because of this it served as a great warm up for Switch and Diplo’s sets.

I was excited to hear Switch and Diplo’s new dancehall project, but the reality was that whether Major Lazer made it on stage or not I really couldn’t tell you. It was more the case that anyone near the decks or the microphones could have a go. This would usually have ended in disaster, but it was great. Maybe I had been showing the free bar too much interest, but it just seemed like everybody was just genuinely thrilled to be there.

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As with every good party, there was also a good after party – this time in the form of Durrr. Perhaps one of the most established club nights in London, I always have high hopes when queuing outside. It never disappoints, but then it never really thrills, perhaps because the majority there had work in the morning. The DJs are always good though, especially when they stick to disco, as opposed to opting for techno – but by the time the headliner Boys Noize came on I was far too tired to enjoy as much as it deserved to be enjoyed.

A few weeks back the lovely Nikki knocked on our door to have a word with Amelia. Alas Amelia was out, discount but that gave us a chance to have a chin wag with the talented illustrator (it was our lunch break!) Amongst tea and complaining about the lack of summery weather, hospital Nikki mentioned that she had an exhibition showing in the Islington Arts Factory. So Kate (earth editor) and myself being the eager beavers we are, decided to check it out the next day.

Despite Kate falling down some escalator stairs and me not knowing what directions to take from the station; we did eventually arrive at the gallery. We arrived just at the right time as the owner had just opened the doors, accompanied by a playful pug.

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The building, converted from a church provides a cosy, oldsy feel which is perfect for the WAM (Women’s Art Movement) exhibition. WAM aims to ‘bring together the complexities of motivation, inspiration and continuity with the aim of providing a resource for information, advice, support and guidance’. With so many women artists the exhibition definitely feels eclectic.

Ofcourse we made a beeline for Nikki Pinder‘s work which is dark but playful and delightful at the same time. There is so much information to register, it makes your brain tick like clockwork.

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Janice Fisher‘s vintage large scale pieces also caught my eye. A simple rendition of movement with an age-old feel reminded me of images on vintage post cards.

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Ann Foster‘s pieces where Minnie Mouse looked distinctly 1950s, juxtaposed a cute kitch feel with expressive and modern strokes of paint in the background. Glitter dollar signs also popped up here and there. From the piece I could detect a cynicism towards consumer culture but also gender, performance and transgender were touched on. I liked the ideas behind the piece but wished she had done more to ‘doll up’ Minnie; making her a clearer symbol of an adult world of dress up, transvestites and materialism. The cuteness of minnie set against the dark current would have presented more of a discernible tension.

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One of my favourite works was from Silvia Cristo whose collages on metal used a mixed medium of old photographs, words cut up from magazine, scribbles and paints used to create a dissolved, worn down effect. They looked and felt like snippets from the past, of encounters from a trip down memory lane.

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After all that viewing, the friendly pug came back to say goodbye to us.

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clearly not impressed!

The show is definitely a mixed bag with some innovative pieces but also some that feel slightly outdated. But it’s definitely worth a pit stop if you live near by and want a dose of varied art from different female perspectives.

On the most part dolls are fairly likeable. Admittedly, this some have been given a slightly sinister reputation, pills thanks mostly to Chucky. But, what can’t be argued with is how likeable tea is. And when served with cake the likeability factor goes off the scale. Last Thursday, as part of the ongoing retrospective of Viktor and Rolf, the Barbican with Viva Cake had a tea party celebrating these three joys.

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Getting off the tube we played ‘Guess Who’s Going’, made a lot easier but the many takes on doll costumes tottering towards the Barbican. Following a toy soldier (there were a handful of guys in attendance) into the Garden Room, I felt like I had been catapulted back to the forties. The room, decked out by the Viva Cakes girls, was reminiscent of the mad-hatters tea party mixed with Gran’s best china. Even Alice (one girl had a costume inspired by the hallucinating blonde) was in attendance, but disappointingly no actual mad-hatter.

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Alice and friends

It had been a long week of events for Team Amelia’s and the promise of tea had kept my stamina up to enjoy another event. But here I was at a tea party with no tea and no cake! Made worse by watching others tucking into the treats, whilst also seated. Jealously, I tore my eyes away from all the happy tea diners. What to do? Not having been too many tea parties I was unsure of the etiquette. Was I allowed to march on over to a table and nab a cake or did I have to wait it out?

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A few boys enjoy cards and tea
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Cake! Tea!

Whilst pondering this potential faux-pas, relief came in the form of a trolley (dolly) piled high with cakes, oozing with cream, glowing from pink food colouring, devil flavoured, butter creamed and fruit topped. I tried to act the lady by not throwing myself at the cakes, after all this was a tea party, and daintliy picked up two delicious looking cupcakes. Then has luck would have more stools were brought out and we skipped (like I said acting like ladies) on over. Now if only the tea would arrive, we would have a tea party on our hands!

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Getting dolled up.
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We passed the time, spotting the doll costumes we liked the most and watching others having doll cheek make-up applied. Emma wandered over to the Lady Luck Rules Ok! little stall to buy a Russian doll personalised necklace for her friend who is obsessed with Russian Dolls as a birthday present. We all cooed over the necklace, which was a distraction from the wanting of tea. But oh, there is only so much waiting you can stand! Two hours is too long to wait for the promise of a cuppa. So, with the band playing we made our way out tea-less and dishevelled, as more dolled up ladies and a few gents made their way in.

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More dolls

I’ve heard really good things about Viva Cake tea parties, so I don’t want to be mean and I was told, there was a shortage of tea cups hence the tea hold up. But not having a cup of tea at a tea party is a bit of a let down. I mean, what are you supposed to do at tea party with no tea? Next time I’ll bring my own cup.

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Amelia’s Magazine | EJF Eco-Chic Pop-Up Store

I popped along to take a sneak peek at the Environmental Justice Foundation’s Pop-up store on Carnaby Street yesterday. It’s the latest in a series of pop-ups by the EJF, and and it’s fabulous.

Nestled at the end of London’s most swinging street, online the store spreads over two floors, treatment and has been kitted out by Honest Entertainment, who have used only recycled merchandising pieces and props to create a wonderfully whacky space. Huge hand-painted tea-cups swing from the ceiling and the sets are loud and vibrant, the perfect setting for the clothes on offer.

The EJF’s t-shirt project has run for a few years now, with designers getting on board slowly but surely, and it’s these pieces that form the central focus of the downstairs space. The fashionable roster of designers includes GIles Deacon, Luella and Zandra Rhodes, to name a few – all creating their own design in their own style. They’re available for ladies and gentlemen.

I spoke to Larissa from the EJF about the project, who was happy to regale the hilarious story of how the project started. On her first day with the charity, she was asked to market a box of Katherine Hamnett t-shirts. (Hamnett, by the way, is a huge supporter of the EJF). ‘I was photographed wearing the t-shirt to post on an e-newsletter,’ Larissa told me. ‘Me and a colleague, usually found scaling ships in Sierra Leone and arresting pirates, were begrudgingly photographed wearing them.’ Was it a success? ‘No! We didn’t sell one!’

The answer was to photograph Lily Cole wearing the t-shirt – after which, they flew off the shelves, and the t-shirt project was born. I’ve seen a few of the designs in the past, but there were a few I didn’t recognise. I mentioned this to Larissa. ‘We don’t work in seasons,’ she informed me. ‘We don’t encourage throwaway fashion, so we add to the collection rather than replacing it.’


Devon Aoki photographed by Eric Guillemain


Max Rogers photographed by Matthew Eades

On the second floor of the space, there’s a host of eco and environmentally conscious brands, a lot of which we’ve covered in the past. Eco-chic fashion has really come a long way in the past few years, and thank heavens the days of hemp sacks are oh-verrr. You wouldn’t have a clue that these clothes are any different to what you’d find on the high street ,visually; the only differences are that they’re not produced by children forced to work in sweatshops, and the clothing uses totally environmentally friendly fabrics. It’s fashion with a conscience.

Some of the brands up for grabs include our mates at Veja trainers who continue to produce high quality, eco-friendly footwear…

..Beyond Skin, who produce 100% vegan vintage-inspired stilettos, using only the highest quality faux leathers and suedes…

Worn Again, who work with the big corporate companies and make creative products from decommissioned Eurostar uniforms and retired Virgin hot air balloons, for instance:

…and many, many more. Make sure you pop along to the pop-up shop – it’s great destination for all fashion fans. Keep an eye on the listings section where we’ll feature the EJF’s upcoming events, too.

Categories ,Beyond Skin, ,Carnaby Street, ,EJF, ,Environmental Justice Foundation, ,Giles Deacon, ,Honest Entertainments, ,Katherine Hamnett, ,Lily Cole, ,Luella, ,Save The Future, ,T-shirts, ,Veja trainers, ,Worn Again, ,Zandra Rhodes

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