Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Bernard Chandran

Bernard Chandran S/S 2012, capsule illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

I feel like myself and Bernard Chandran are good pals. He’d probably see it differently, but the first show I ever saw during a fashion week was his, and since then I haven’t missed a single one. I almost did this time – cruelly his show clashed with one of my other favourites, Jean Pierre Braganza. I was worried sick – who would I choose? In the end, the Amelia’s Magazine team had got JPB more than covered and I decided that I couldn’t miss Bernard after all.

Bernard Chandran S/S 2012, illustrated by Cruz

It’s a bloody good job I was so desperate to see it, because his show was at the Il Bottaccio venue on Grosvenor Place. If this doesn’t mean anything to you, it’s basically a 20 minute cycle by Boris from Somerset House, fashion week’s epicentre. It might not sound much, but when you’ve got less than twenty minutes to get there, it’s boiling hot on the Strand and rammed with buses churning emissions in your face and you’re prone to perspiration, it’s less than entirely ideal.

All photography by Matt Bramford

I arrived at the venue in a complete state. Perspiring, thirsty, hungry and miserable, I just wanted to get inside and get it over with. Luckily entrance was a breeze, and I found a good seat on which to waft my invite frantically and avoid glares from immaculate fashionos free of any perspiration. I sat next to Lida from The First To Know – I’ve spoken to her electronically a few times, and it was great to finally meet her. We chatted about a recent article of hers for the Ecologist where she speaks to Chandran about the lack of available craftsmanship in our country, and it’s definitely worth a read.

Bernard Chandran S/S 2012, illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Bernard’s invite featured a duplicated picture of a glamorous woman from the 1950s. I had already guessed (naturally, as myself and Bernard are so friendly) that it was his mother. She had the same delicate bone structure and exotic appeal. It turns out that these two subjects – the 1950s and the matriarch of the Chandran dynasty – where Bernard’s inspiration this season.

The show featured many of Bernard’s now signature styles, but this time he’d cranked up the glamour factor and it really suited his unique dedication to sculpture and proportion.

Bernard Chandran S/S 2012, illustrated by Cruz

Look after look brought glamour, sophistication, elegant craftsmanship and a unique approach to dynamic cutting. Floor-length silk numbers, beautifully simple, sat happily with futuristic blazers with angular oversized lapels and a-line dresses with feather panels. The colour palette was a varied as it could be – pale pinks and blues, gold, silver, and vivid cobalt and fuchsia. Chandran’s evident bravery in his use of colour was a dominant feature once again.

It was quite a mix, and that’s what I quite like about Chandran; you can’t label his collections with this season’s buzz words and you could try to squeeze him into a box but he’ll burst out of it, wearing feathers and glittered fabrics and assymetric cuts (metapohrically speaking, of course).

The finale brought a stunning black model onto the catwalk wearing a red-carpet finest – a dazzling body-con number with a sweetheart neckline and a fishtail train. Delicate petal shapes in a complimentary colour had been applied all over the frock, teamed with high-gloss evening gloves. The model glided past us oozing sex appeal with a look of confidence that only this sort of piece can give.

Bernard, you didn’t let me down. Until next time, pal…

Categories ,1950s, ,Bernard Chandran, ,Boris Bikes, ,catwalk, ,Cruz, ,Feathers, ,First To Know, ,Front Row, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Glamour, ,Glitter, ,Grosvenor Place, ,Il Bottaccio, ,Lida Hujic, ,London Fashion Week, ,Off Schedule, ,Pop PR, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Sweat, ,the ecologist, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pick Me Up Selects 2015 Review

Laura Callaghan 2
Pick Me Up is back! Here’s my run down of the twelve artists and illustrators chosen to exhibit as Pick Me Up Selects: this year the emphasis was on process as much as outcome, which meant a healthy selection of wildly different styles. Which is your favourite? Let the inspiration sharing begin…

Guarab Thakali
I was extremely pleased to see Gaurab Thakali chosen to showcase a series inspired by Prohibition America for Pick Me Up Selects, having loved his narrative work at the Camberwell graduate show last year (read my review here).

Thomas Lamadieu
Thomas Lamadieu creates surreal work by working into the spaces on photos that show the upward views of skyscrapers.

Laura Callaghan
Illustrator Laura Callaghan titles her work with names such as Sweat, Gorge and Stasis. Her amazing maximalist artworks feature strong women surrounded by minute details that invite the viewer into a story. She is showing a series inspired by Dante’s Inferno (see also the opening image).

Peter Judson
Peter Judson displayed a huge image of Somerset House alongside detailed crops to show juicy abstract details.

Hattie Newman
Hattie Newman is a paper sculpture specialist – loved this intricately cut tableaux of Miami.

Luke Evans
Like some mad scientist Luke Evans makes artwork from jolts of static electricity fired from an old laser printer, resulting in oddly beautiful abstract patterns. Luke studied graphic design and photography, which has informed his clean aesthetic – prints are accompanied by a stylish video showcasing his techniques.

Zoe Taylor
Zoe Taylor is a Royal College of Art graduate who creates atmospheric hand painted vignettes that call to mind stills from movies.

Rop Van Mierlo
I think these cute inkblot animals might be goats! Rop van Mierlo lets chance take effect in his fluid paintings.

Jennifer Argo
Detailed graphite drawings by Jennifer Argo are inspired by the patterns in glaciers, worked from large format photographs.

Sara Andreasson
Swedish illustrator Sara Andreasson creates awesome work that is focused on bodies – using simple shapes in cut out paper to create bold images in a simple yet eye catching colour palette.

Laura Jouan
French designer Laura Jouan layers textures in an exploration of poster making.

Jake Cunningham
Finally, these cute dinos are by Jack Cunningham, who is an animation and illustration graduate from Kingston Uni.

All of these images were first shared on my instagram feed. Pick Me Up 2015 continues until 4th May at Somerset House, more details here. More favourite finds to come soon!

Categories ,2015, ,Dante’s Inferno, ,Gaurab Thakali, ,Gorge, ,Graphic Art, ,Hattie Newman, ,illustration, ,Jack Cunningham, ,Jennifer Argo, ,Laura Callaghan, ,Laura Jouan, ,Luke Evans, ,Miami, ,Peter Judson, ,Pick Me Up Selects, ,review, ,Rop van Mierlo, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sara Andreasson, ,Somerset House, ,Stasis, ,Sweat, ,Thomas Lamadieu, ,Zoe Taylor

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