Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Scout Graduate Showcase 2013: New Talent at London Fashion Week S/S 2014

Xiao Lin SS 2014 1 by xplusyequals
Xiao Li S/S 2014 by xplusyequals.

A rainy Sunday London Fashion Week afternoon was spent uncovering a treasure trove of new talent at the Fashion Scout Graduate Presentation at Freemason’s Hall. Here is an insight into what the finest fashion graduates in the UK are producing during the early stages of their career.

LFW Sept 2013-Angus Chiang
Neon floral spacesuit by Angus Chiang.

LFW Sept 2013-Maiko Takeda blue
LFW Sept 2013-Maiko Takeda
Maiko Takeda by Saara Karppinen
Maiko Takeda by Saara Karppinen.

The selection varied immensely, from a bold giant floral spacemen by Angus Chiang from the Shih-Chien University in Taiwan, to the architectural spiked perspex head pieces by Royal College of Art graduate Maiko Takeda.

LFW Sept 2013-Xiao Li
LFW Sept 2013-Xiao Li close up
Xiao Li MA Show Fashion Illustration by Rose Petal Deer (Emily Katherine Reader)
Xiao Li by Rose Petal Deer (Emily Katherine Reader).

But it was the knitwear that really stood out to me, with two graduates in particular pushing this traditional craft into modern new realms. Plump pastel knitwear by Royal College of Art graduate Xiao Li had a wonderfully voluminous shape, combining innovative materials and head turning proportions to make a real impact. Who says wrapping up has to be just about comfort?

Xiao Lin
Xiao Li, photography by Kerry Flint.

Jaimee McKenna
Jaimee McKenna, photography by Kerry Flint.

LFW Sept 2013-Jaimee Mckenna
Jaimee Mckenna by Esther Hong
Jaimee Mckenna by Esther Hong.

Central Saint Martins graduate Jaimee Mckenna had also produced a striking collection of cobalt blue knit dresses that stood out in the dimly lit hall. Closer inspection revealed intricate pleating and multiple layers of knitted lambswool that had been expertly crafted by Jaimee Mckenna to form strong rigid structures that still had movement.

LFW Sept 2013-Lauren Smith Edinburgh
LFW Sept 2013-Lauren Smith Edinburgh close up
Close up detail of dress by Lauren Smith from Edinburgh College of Art.

LFW Sept 2013-Carrie Ann Stein CSM
LFW Sept 2013-Carrie Ann Stein CSM
Intricate textured fabrics by Carrie Ann Stein from Central Saint Martins.

LFW Sept 2013-Min Wu LCF
Dress by Min Wu from the London College of Fashion.

LFW Sept 2013-Sadie Williams
Amazing red metallic A-line maxi dress by Sadie Williams of Central Saint Martins.

This well curated showcase of work by the best UK fashion graduates was an arousing insight into the rapidly changing future of the fashion industry, and for now, it seems, the future is in knit.

All photography by Amelia Gregory unless otherwise stated.

Categories ,Angus Chiang, ,Carrie Ann Stein, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Emily Katherine Reader, ,Esther Hong, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,graduates, ,graduates 2013, ,Jaimee McKenna, ,knitwear, ,Lauren Smith, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maiko Takeda, ,Min Wu, ,New Talent, ,Rose Petal Deer, ,Royal College of Art, ,Saara Karppinen, ,Sadie Williams, ,Shih-Chien University, ,Xiao Li, ,xplusyequals

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Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. 80s.

Eilish Macintosh by Sarah Ushurhe
Eilish Macintosh by Sarah Ushurhe.

The 80s are still big all over fashion. Whether as a reference for shape or pattern or colour there’s always something new to delve into and explore… and I’m really not complaining.

Jie Bai created oddly protuberant shapes in monochrome optical designs combined with curtains of draped velvet.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Jie Bai photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Jie Bai photography by Amelia Gregory
Jie Bai. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Eilish Macintosh showed one of my favourite Central Saint Martins collections: a stunning display of geometric metallic pleated, case woven, sale printed and layered dresses with boxy coats. Beautiful.
Eilish Macintosh by Sarah Ushurhe
Eilish Macintosh by Sarah Ushurhe.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Eilish Macintosh photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Eilish Macintosh photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Eilish Macintosh photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Eilish Macintosh photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Eilish Macintosh photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Eilish Macintosh photography by Amelia Gregory
Eilish Macintosh.

Holly Skousbo went for summery styling in high waisted pleated high shouldered two pieces, tadalafil mixing brights with whites for a light and girly look. Again there’s no getting away from the pleats with this lot, re-imagined in every way possible.

Holly Skousbo Central Saint Martins BA Show 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou
Holly Skousbo by Michalis Christodoulou.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Skousbo photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Skousbo photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Skousbo photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Skousbo.

Sarah Hall went for oversized wafts of chiffon in white, red and black. Again with boxy shoulders. Poland would love it!

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Sarah Hall photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Sarah Hall photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Sarah Hall photography by Amelia Gregory
Sarah Hall.

Justyna Korzynska sounds as if she might hail from Poland, and it’s interesting that she chose to riff on the one legged look so favoured by our best known Polish designer Krystof Strozyna. Her gold halo-ed women strode the catwalk in flashes of neon and calf high biker boots.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Justyna Korzynska photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Justyna Korzynska photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Justyna Korzynska photography by Amelia Gregory
Justyna Korzynska.

Emma Rose James went for the Meadham Kirchhoff effect – sending her six models down the catwalk for one brief turn in front of the cameras together. Her lacy dresses referenced Christopher Kane and Erdem. With slouchy socks.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Emma Rose James photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Emma Rose James photography by Amelia Gregory
Emma Rose James.

Jaeyeon Lee went all out with the colour blocking for some very sculptural 80s-esque showpieces.

Jaeyeon Lee by Laura FrameJaeyeon Lee by Laura Frame
Jaeyeon Lee by Laura Frame.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Jaeyeon Lee photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Jaeyeon Lee photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Jaeyeon Lee photography by Amelia Gregory
Jaeyeon Lee. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Award winner Nicholas Aburn also tackled the 80s in prize winning style.

Categories ,80s, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Christopher Kane, ,Eilish Macintosh, ,Emma Rose James, ,Erdem, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Graduate Shows, ,Holly Skousbo, ,Jaeyeon Lee, ,Jie Bai, ,Justyna Korzynska, ,Krystof Strozyna, ,Laura Frame, ,Meadham Kirchhoff, ,Michalis Christodoulou, ,Nicholas Aburn, ,poland, ,Sarah Hall, ,Sarah Ushurhe, ,Sculptural, ,tailoring

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